I do not like to use the solder pump since the one I have used has damaged the old board a little bit, such a shame. However, I have tried your way of doing it today, excellent results!!!! I am so glad I have found this video! Thank you man, great work!
That's what sucks (NPI) about using the manual pumps. You have to remember to prime it beforehand. Even the cheapest electric desoldering tool is infinitely better. There's a bunch of hacks where folks have taken a cheap electric desoldering pump and added an aquarium pump and trigger. A neat tip (another NPI) is to make tip that's around 1/2" wide for the cheap soldering iron you have. Take a piece of heavy gauge copper wire from a ROMEX and bend it into the shape of a tiny coat hanger, so the two ends meet. Twist the ends together at the top then insert and screw them onto your soldering iron. This will let you apply more heat across an entire side of an IC while you lever it.
These are great ideas -- thank you for sharing! I'm slowly starting to acquire better tools and the electric solder pump will likely be next. A temperature-controlled soldering iron is vital for the type soldering I do, and you can now get one for well-under $30 USD (Pinecil).
@@SteveGuidi Yeah, but I would spend a bit more and get a lot more. The Aixun soldering station is a game changer. It heats up fast and makes soldering pure joy. You can buy one with the hand piece and three tips for around $100 at injuredgadgets. As far as an electric soldering pump, don't waste your money. Save up and wait around for a deal on a Auyoe station which comes with a desoldering gun, cartridge style soldering iron and hot air wand unit on eBay used. They're around $200 and saves a lot of deskspace. I own one along with the Aixun.
Useful video. I always feel frustrated when I have to remove the DIP component on the PCB through the hole. Now I feel inspired after seeing this video.
How much the heat from hot air workstation must applying on without damaging the PCB? some PCBs has bad quality and applying more heat on the components make some pins pops up.
What type of IC are you dealing with? You can test ICs in-circuit with logic probes or an oscilloscope. For 74xx series logic ICs, check the datasheet for the truth table and use that to test. For a 555 timer, it might be easier to remove and test with a simple circuit.
Nice variation to work from both sides... I will be working on a friend's 64 soon, so was brushing up on technique and found your video (via Google search), and may give this a try!
This ended up working perfectly for me, i.e. the solder sucker on bottom side of the board and the soldering iron on the component side! Never knew it could be so quick with just these tools. Thanks!
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A great tip for those starting out or still using a manual solder pump! Thanks for sharing your experience!
I do not like to use the solder pump since the one I have used has damaged the old board a little bit, such a shame. However, I have tried your way of doing it today, excellent results!!!! I am so glad I have found this video! Thank you man, great work!
Thanks. Took a while to find a desoldering video that did not require several hundred dollars worth of tools.
Great video Steve! Anything that can be done to avoid lifting traces or overheating the vias is a win in my book!
SIR YOUR NOBLE EFFORTS ARE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED....THANK-YOU VERT MUCH !!
That's what sucks (NPI) about using the manual pumps. You have to remember to prime it beforehand. Even the cheapest electric desoldering tool is infinitely better. There's a bunch of hacks where folks have taken a cheap electric desoldering pump and added an aquarium pump and trigger.
A neat tip (another NPI) is to make tip that's around 1/2" wide for the cheap soldering iron you have. Take a piece of heavy gauge copper wire from a ROMEX and bend it into the shape of a tiny coat hanger, so the two ends meet. Twist the ends together at the top then insert and screw them onto your soldering iron. This will let you apply more heat across an entire side of an IC while you lever it.
These are great ideas -- thank you for sharing! I'm slowly starting to acquire better tools and the electric solder pump will likely be next. A temperature-controlled soldering iron is vital for the type soldering I do, and you can now get one for well-under $30 USD (Pinecil).
@@SteveGuidi Yeah, but I would spend a bit more and get a lot more. The Aixun soldering station is a game changer. It heats up fast and makes soldering pure joy. You can buy one with the hand piece and three tips for around $100 at injuredgadgets. As far as an electric soldering pump, don't waste your money. Save up and wait around for a deal on a Auyoe station which comes with a desoldering gun, cartridge style soldering iron and hot air wand unit on eBay used. They're around $200 and saves a lot of deskspace. I own one along with the Aixun.
Useful video. I always feel frustrated when I have to remove the DIP component on the PCB through the hole. Now I feel inspired after seeing this video.
How much the heat from hot air workstation must applying on without damaging the PCB? some PCBs has bad quality and applying more heat on the components make some pins pops up.
Tks Master,.
How can i know if the ic is work well or need to change
What type of IC are you dealing with? You can test ICs in-circuit with logic probes or an oscilloscope. For 74xx series logic ICs, check the datasheet for the truth table and use that to test. For a 555 timer, it might be easier to remove and test with a simple circuit.
"Sodder sucker"
Thanks for the video.
But that is NOT inexpensive for many of us.
Nice variation to work from both sides... I will be working on a friend's 64 soon, so was brushing up on technique and found your video (via Google search), and may give this a try!
This ended up working perfectly for me, i.e. the solder sucker on bottom side of the board and the soldering iron on the component side! Never knew it could be so quick with just these tools. Thanks!