Love that you didn't edit out the unexpected discoveries! Also finally, someone uses the correct term "springy thing" to describe the springy thing. ;)
I have this gun also. Cleaning prior to use the highly recommended. I also found that 45 psi was where the gun performed the best. I painted my entire truck with it and had very little orange peel and was impressed with how the gun painted.
Great video with throrough breakdown for all relevant details, such as removing the small filter under the cap and using teflon tape on cup threads. And 'chill-out sign' for the final width of paint pattern and distance of tip from surface - cannot forget that one.
I have the Harbor Freight "Central Pneumatic Professional" purple spray gun. I bought this thing about 15 years ago for $10. It doesn't have the sealant on the threads and there's no grease all over it either. The machining of the knobs and fittings have a much better finish and appearance. The surface where the paint canister attaches to the gun doesn't have that weird taper that leaks on most guns either. The sealing surface is flat and has a nice plastic gasket. The whole gun just has a better quality; the part number for this gun is "Item 43430". I haven't seen any of the videos here on TH-cam that mention this gun for some reason.
Just a guess; the oil on the parts and gun out of the box is less for the usual “corrosion” resistance than potential electrolysis of all the dislike metals. They really don’t know how long it could sit on the shelf or uncontrolled environment. Clean up is simple enough. I just thought I’d contribute a possible explanation
Great video. Thanks for posting. I have the same gun, The nozzle comes off easy if a LITTLE (NOT TOO MUCH) heat is applied with a torch or lighter. The waxy grease sealer they use melts at low temp and it will spin right off. You don't want to get it so hot it melts the plastic ring and spacer. It's not that tight actually, but the sealer they use is like thread locker (Lock-tite). It's actually 10mm Allen wrench for the brass piece, not 3/8, but 3/8 might get you by if you don't have a metric set.
I know I'm way late to this vid, but I appreciate the info, as I just purchased my first HVLP gun. Little different that this one, but similar enough to be able to figure out any differences. I wasn't sure how to clean this, and that happens to be a kinda important part LOL. So thank you!
Suggest wearing Nitrile gloves when using all solvents, cleaners, etc. Have had 2 friends pass away from liver cancer due to using solvents like carb cleaner for years.
No, it is known by the medical community that the solvents do damage the liver and causes cancer in some cases. Not all get cancer, but damage does occur. Use the gloves, there are not enough of us around that we can afford to loose more of us. @Proximity Symbol
i think that shipping grease is called Marboleum and its liberally applied to protect metals being shipped by Sea inside Shipping Containers it is a pain in the ass as you know to remove although the brake cleaner trick seemed to do pretty well and as a boater for many years i osually have Acetone that works well also for cleaning and ive used lacquer thinner that i get in 55 gallon drums that has also worked
Good video, thank you. I didn't get the tool with my purple gun either. Don't know what that's about. Cheap devils! I wonder if one had access to a bicycle shop if they could get a flat spanner type of 19MM wrench? That would be good. Just an idea to float out there for people, but of course, your idea of grinding down a combination wrench is one I have done before as well. Good thinking. Thanks again for a useful and well-explained video.
Buy the more expensive version of the same gun that comes with the regulator. Considering, you need the regulator anyway, it is worth the purchase. The more expensive version comes with the wrench that you need.
Hi there, if I am spraying dry non skid onto rolled wet paint what PSI would you recommend? Was thinking 30 PSI. Would I have to worry about the fluid knob if I am spraying dry material? Also I'll be spraying standing on top of the boat down so the gun will be horizontal. Thanks!
Hi everyone, I just bought this gun and being my first time spraying I have questions.....first being.....I tested it spraying a sheetrock wall in my garage. I have a good fan, 40 psi, nozzle adjustment screw wound all the way out to the point that it almost falls out, thinned the paint using floetrol AND some water....and yet it just took me an hour to paint a 12x8 wall and I still had to go over some areas with a brush. All the holes are clear but I'm still not getting enough paint on the wall. Five seconds in the same spot and it didn't run. Edit....I just realized that the air adjustment screw wasn't all the way out so my 40psi at the regulator probably wasn't 40psi in the gun after it got past the built in adjuster that wasn't all the way open. Would that cause my issues ? I'd test it but I just got done cleaning it and besides, I don't have any more walls to paint right now. Any ideas ?
You may not be using the appropriate size airline hose from your compressor to your gun. I watched a great video on tips for using an HVLP sprayer (I’ll send you the link, hopefully). He (the TH-camr) said you need to use MINIMUM 3/8” air hose, but even better to use 1/2” or 5/8”. Also he recommends using a larger quick disconnect fitting to your gun. The reason for using a minimum 3/8” airline hose is you need to run high volume air at a lower pressure, hence HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure). So, if your air hose is too small, you can’t run a lot of volume. He also recommends attaching a pressure regulator gauge directly on your gun and not just reading your air compressor psi gauge. The reason for this- your actual compressor gauge may read a higher psi number than your gun regulator gauge. Depending on the length of hose you are using you may get some pressure drop and may not be actually getting the psi that your compressor gauge itself is reading. If you attach a psi regulator gauge to directly to your gun, then you will have an accurate actual psi. I hope that makes sense. If I can’t post the actual link to the TH-cam where I got this great information, the name of the TH-camr is Gixerman01. He has a few different videos on HVLP sprayers. You should watch all (I think I saw 3 videos). They were all SO helpful!!
@@lisashearer3344 Very good info about the high volume part. I'll be trying again sometime when I have interior doors and baseboard to paint. I'll look up the you tube as well. Thanks for the info !
SprayWayCustoms thanks for the sub! Did you see part 1 of my Ranger Rebuild series? I used this gun to lay down some Rustoleum paint and primer. This Friday I will be uploading Ranger Rebuild part 2 where I use this gun to lay down 2k primer.
I got the similar hvlp purple gun that comes with an at-gun gauge and regulator - after I returned the model you have. I didn't use the one you have because after looking at it and then a bunch of online research I decided it was the wrong gun for me. I read that (yours) it needs more air pressure like up to 70psi to spray automotive finishes which technically is /not/ hvlp. The one I just cleaned is cast with "MAX 45PSI" in the handle (model 62381, $28) That's more 'low pressure' than 70... Anyway, it has all the same issues out of the box as yours, even had that hard clearish sealer stuck to the needle! What a crazy manufacturer screwup! I am not at the point of using it yet but I'm hoping it will function as yours. I wish they came clean no thread sealers at all. On mine, I actually had to mount a ratchet in the vise with the 3/8 Allen on it and resorted to a pipe wrench to get the tip out of the brass air distribution fitting. (I was going to bend and ruin the 'wrench' it came with if I kept trying with it.) I reassembled with teflon tape, but I'm not convinced these threads even 'need' any sealant at all. Better guns don't! Thanks for the thorough vid.
fishhuntadventure Thanks for watching! This one has 50-70psi cast on the handle but I've found it works best with the regulator on the wall set to 40-45psi. I will say that there is a lot less over spray with this one vs. my old conventional gun that ran at 60psi on the wall. I like the fact that it uses all the paint in the cup vs the old cup on the bottom one. However the cup on the bottom conventional gun has a better balance to it. I've used this gun 3 times since making this video and I really like it so far. You can see it in action in my Ford Ranger rebuild series.
I don't know why I got this video but I'm glad I did. I been having a bad day & needed this, as in the dry type humor is great. Straight made me laugh. Anyways, I do already know about spray guns, but I watched it regardless, & I haven't seen any misinformation so that's always a good thing. I'll check out some more videos
yeah i just bought it...figuring out what to use for a wrench...I saw some guy using a crescent...why did u not do that...? One of the bad things...not much documentation on the box...kinda like you are not supposed to open it up..
Victor Gomez probably not, I've never found an 8 gal compressor that had enough cfms to run it. This thing takes about 10 cfm at 45 psi to run it continuously. If you're doing super small projects and don't mind waiting repeatedly for it to catch up then yes.
Robert Smith. I don't know where you are? In the U.S. Harbor Freight carries them for sale. Sometimes you can get a coupon through H.F. app. with ANY purchase get a free 16" magnet tool bar. It's a nice one too.
That brass part is not supposed to come off. The black fluid nozzle is supposed to be removed like u were initially trying to do. They put an epoxy sealer on the threads so it can make its voyage from china. I know all this because i bought that exact gun from HF, returned it and found that they all are locked up. I tried every one on the shelf!. There are also other videos about this same gun and same problem...
Hi, you only paid 10$ for the gun. If you bought a Sata them maybe, just maybe you would have got a wrench. Trust me, I know as I have 25 spray guns, so, I have a stash if soanners, brushes, etc. Oh by the way, always remove the needle first. Never remove the fluid tip first, Sign of a Newbie!!! The term is air cap which atomizes the material on to the substrate surface.
Sealant is a sign of a cheap gun. Never see this on a Devilbiss, or Iwata. Always on rhe cheapo Chinese or Tiawanese Shite. In fact, I threw 2 new Chinese guns out, yes, right in the trash can. Will not use that low down rubbish.
A garbage Harbor Freight gun is a complete waste of time ~ cheap tools represent the single biggest mistake DIYers make when approaching these types of projects. Truth: never look at tools as an expense ~ they are actually an investment that you make in order to get superior results. They also represent an asset you can sell once the job is done, and in the end it will cost less than renting. Best budget HVLP Systems: 1st choice: Fuji 2202 Semi-PRO 2 & 2nd choice: Earlex HV5500.
Love that you didn't edit out the unexpected discoveries! Also finally, someone uses the correct term "springy thing" to describe the springy thing. ;)
I have this gun also. Cleaning prior to use the highly recommended. I also found that 45 psi was where the gun performed the best. I painted my entire truck with it and had very little orange peel and was impressed with how the gun painted.
Heath Mcquirt why would you want to? It would be faster and more effective with a roller
Great video with throrough breakdown for all relevant details, such as removing the small filter under the cap and using teflon tape on cup threads. And 'chill-out sign' for the final width of paint pattern and distance of tip from surface - cannot forget that one.
I have the Harbor Freight "Central Pneumatic Professional" purple spray gun. I bought this thing about 15 years ago for $10. It doesn't have the sealant on the threads and there's no grease all over it either. The machining of the knobs and fittings have a much better finish and appearance. The surface where the paint canister attaches to the gun doesn't have that weird taper that leaks on most guns either. The sealing surface is flat and has a nice plastic gasket. The whole gun just has a better quality; the part number for this gun is "Item 43430". I haven't seen any of the videos here on TH-cam that mention this gun for some reason.
Just a guess; the oil on the parts and gun out of the box is less for the usual “corrosion” resistance than potential electrolysis of all the dislike metals. They really don’t know how long it could sit on the shelf or uncontrolled environment.
Clean up is simple enough. I just thought I’d contribute a possible explanation
Jay Stephens it could be for electrolysis prevention.
Just pulled one apart and that black ring is oriented with it in the top position like you did it and test sprayed with .
Great video. Thanks for posting. I have the same gun, The nozzle comes off easy if a LITTLE (NOT TOO MUCH) heat is applied with a torch or lighter. The waxy grease sealer they use melts at low temp and it will spin right off. You don't want to get it so hot it melts the plastic ring and spacer. It's not that tight actually, but the sealer they use is like thread locker (Lock-tite). It's actually 10mm Allen wrench for the brass piece, not 3/8, but 3/8 might get you by if you don't have a metric set.
THIS!!! Thank you! I had the same stuck parts and just a little heat from my torch did the trick!!
A trick for cleaning small holes (in a carburetor) is to use copper wire from speaker wire. Might work for this too.
Robert Thomas that’s a good Idea!
I know I'm way late to this vid, but I appreciate the info, as I just purchased my first HVLP gun. Little different that this one, but similar enough to be able to figure out any differences. I wasn't sure how to clean this, and that happens to be a kinda important part LOL. So thank you!
Suggest wearing Nitrile gloves when using all solvents, cleaners, etc. Have had 2 friends pass away from liver cancer due to using solvents like carb cleaner for years.
there is no way you can prove it was carb cleaner that killed your friend
No, it is known by the medical community that the solvents do damage the liver and causes cancer in some cases. Not all get cancer, but damage does occur. Use the gloves, there are not enough of us around that we can afford to loose more of us. @Proximity Symbol
Great video! I had the very same problem with the tip not separating....perfect for what I needed. Thank you so much for being so thorough!
i think that shipping grease is called Marboleum and its liberally applied to protect metals being shipped by Sea inside Shipping Containers it is a pain in the ass as you know to remove although the brake cleaner trick seemed to do pretty well and as a boater for many years i osually have Acetone that works well also for cleaning and ive used lacquer thinner that i get in 55 gallon drums that has also worked
Good video, thank you. I didn't get the tool with my purple gun either. Don't know what that's about. Cheap devils! I wonder if one had access to a bicycle shop if they could get a flat spanner type of 19MM wrench? That would be good. Just an idea to float out there for people, but of course, your idea of grinding down a combination wrench is one I have done before as well. Good thinking. Thanks again for a useful and well-explained video.
Thank you for such a detailed explanation of this spray gun. Really good job.
Great job on your explanation thanks
Good info. But the most expensive item is the air compressor. Can I use my Harbour Freight 1 gallon compressor?
I use urathane and acrylic paint and carb cleaner cant melt the harden paint inside the gun so i use hi gloss acrylic thinner to clean it
If you don't want to mess up the metal (assuming it's aluminum), use a brass wire brush or maybe nylon.
Buy the more expensive version of the same gun that comes with the regulator. Considering, you need the regulator anyway, it is worth the purchase. The more expensive version comes with the wrench that you need.
Yea I found that more Expensive guns is just overpriced.
Hi there, if I am spraying dry non skid onto rolled wet paint what PSI would you recommend? Was thinking 30 PSI. Would I have to worry about the fluid knob if I am spraying dry material? Also I'll be spraying standing on top of the boat down so the gun will be horizontal. Thanks!
This gun only sprays liquids. For your application I’d recommend a little handheld sandblaster since they are designed to spray out dry material.
Truly a great video.
Thanks!
Hi everyone, I just bought this gun and being my first time spraying I have questions.....first being.....I tested it spraying a sheetrock wall in my garage. I have a good fan, 40 psi, nozzle adjustment screw wound all the way out to the point that it almost falls out, thinned the paint using floetrol AND some water....and yet it just took me an hour to paint a 12x8 wall and I still had to go over some areas with a brush. All the holes are clear but I'm still not getting enough paint on the wall. Five seconds in the same spot and it didn't run. Edit....I just realized that the air adjustment screw wasn't all the way out so my 40psi at the regulator probably wasn't 40psi in the gun after it got past the built in adjuster that wasn't all the way open. Would that cause my issues ? I'd test it but I just got done cleaning it and besides, I don't have any more walls to paint right now. Any ideas ?
You may not be using the appropriate size airline hose from your compressor to your gun. I watched a great video on tips for using an HVLP sprayer (I’ll send you the link, hopefully). He (the TH-camr) said you need to use MINIMUM 3/8” air hose, but even better to use 1/2” or 5/8”. Also he recommends using a larger quick disconnect fitting to your gun. The reason for using a minimum 3/8” airline hose is you need to run high volume air at a lower pressure, hence HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure). So, if your air hose is too small, you can’t run a lot of volume. He also recommends attaching a pressure regulator gauge directly on your gun and not just reading your air compressor psi gauge. The reason for this- your actual compressor gauge may read a higher psi number than your gun regulator gauge. Depending on the length of hose you are using you may get some pressure drop and may not be actually getting the psi that your compressor gauge itself is reading. If you attach a psi regulator gauge to directly to your gun, then you will have an accurate actual psi. I hope that makes sense. If I can’t post the actual link to the TH-cam where I got this great information, the name of the TH-camr is Gixerman01. He has a few different videos on HVLP sprayers. You should watch all (I think I saw 3 videos). They were all SO helpful!!
th-cam.com/video/9MYve-PGwCI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=w10vREdp6bN9qxph
@@lisashearer3344
Very good info about the high volume part. I'll be trying again sometime when I have interior doors and baseboard to paint.
I'll look up the you tube as well.
Thanks for the info !
are you sure that the peg goes on top? in the assembly diagram it looks like it goes on the bottom right, thanks for the film
just check the diagram you are correct
Great video...just subscribed...keep posting
SprayWayCustoms thanks for the sub! Did you see part 1 of my Ranger Rebuild series? I used this gun to lay down some Rustoleum paint and primer. This Friday I will be uploading Ranger Rebuild part 2 where I use this gun to lay down 2k primer.
Thank you for the video sir!!!!
Holy Moly. Its a $10 gun.
1- clean floor.
2- spray object. (cross fingers hoping rig makes it through small project)
3.- shit can rig in trash barrel.
It's a good enough gun for the diy guy or someone just starting out.
I got the similar hvlp purple gun that comes with an at-gun gauge and regulator - after I returned the model you have. I didn't use the one you have because after looking at it and then a bunch of online research I decided it was the wrong gun for me. I read that (yours) it needs more air pressure like up to 70psi to spray automotive finishes which technically is /not/ hvlp.
The one I just cleaned is cast with "MAX 45PSI" in the handle (model 62381, $28) That's more 'low pressure' than 70...
Anyway, it has all the same issues out of the box as yours, even had that hard clearish sealer stuck to the needle! What a crazy manufacturer screwup! I am not at the point of using it yet but I'm hoping it will function as yours. I wish they came clean no thread sealers at all.
On mine, I actually had to mount a ratchet in the vise with the 3/8 Allen on it and resorted to a pipe wrench to get the tip out of the brass air distribution fitting. (I was going to bend and ruin the 'wrench' it came with if I kept trying with it.) I reassembled with teflon tape, but I'm not convinced these threads even 'need' any sealant at all. Better guns don't!
Thanks for the thorough vid.
fishhuntadventure Thanks for watching! This one has 50-70psi cast on the handle but I've found it works best with the regulator on the wall set to 40-45psi. I will say that there is a lot less over spray with this one vs. my old conventional gun that ran at 60psi on the wall. I like the fact that it uses all the paint in the cup vs the old cup on the bottom one. However the cup on the bottom conventional gun has a better balance to it. I've used this gun 3 times since making this video and I really like it so far. You can see it in action in my Ford Ranger rebuild series.
I don't know why I got this video but I'm glad I did. I been having a bad day & needed this, as in the dry type humor is great. Straight made me laugh. Anyways, I do already know about spray guns, but I watched it regardless, & I haven't seen any misinformation so that's always a good thing. I'll check out some more videos
Fantastic video, great job.
genosails athotmail thanks for Watching!
How the gun work after cleaning what’s your thoughts on it
It works fine, I redid my truck with it.
thanks for details
Thanks for watching!
yeah i just bought it...figuring out what to use for a wrench...I saw some guy using a crescent...why did u not do that...? One of the bad things...not much documentation on the box...kinda like you are not supposed to open it up..
will that plastic cup hold laquer okay without melting ????
Yes it will not melt even if u use urathane
Good video!
pancho lopez thanks for watching!
@@iainportalupi Thanks to you for making this kind of videos! Now i know a lot more about my new Harbor Freight HVLP Spray Gun!
Have a good day!
Why did it end so abruptly?
Can be used with 8 gal. Air compressor?
Victor Gomez probably not, I've never found an 8 gal compressor that had enough cfms to run it. This thing takes about 10 cfm at 45 psi to run it continuously. If you're doing super small projects and don't mind waiting repeatedly for it to catch up then yes.
Iain Portalupi thaks i have one probl gonna replace for 21 gall
10 gallon aircompressor minimum for small projects. If you are trying to paint anything larger than a house door you will need a 30 gallon tank.
I thought it was 6cfm at 40 to run. I have a 15 gal compressor it says 8.5 cfm at 40 and it works fine.
I mean, is there a store selling a base for a coat ready for the car or what?
Helpful video. Thsnks.
You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
Has anyone ever heard of a crescent wrench? Or channel locks
I wouldn't worry about the sealant but more about the dirt floor.... lol
Can you spray above your head with this?
I haven't tried overhead but I don't see why not. It doesn't make much overspray so you shouldn't get too much paint raining back down.
Iain Portalupi )
where did you get the magnet tool bar?
Robert Smith what magnetic tool bar? I don't have any magnetic tool bars because they get coated in metal shavings and that bugs me.
Robert Smith.
I don't know where you are?
In the U.S. Harbor Freight carries them for sale.
Sometimes you can get a coupon through H.F. app. with ANY purchase get a free 16" magnet tool bar.
It's a nice one too.
was it a material hog
cARB CLEANER WORKSREAT
Pipe cleaners are your friend
That brass part is not supposed to come off. The black fluid nozzle is supposed to be removed like u were initially trying to do. They put an epoxy sealer on the threads so it can make its voyage from china. I know all this because i bought that exact gun from HF, returned it and found that they all are locked up. I tried every one on the shelf!. There are also other videos about this same gun and same problem...
Narrator from "Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous"?
Clark Clifford only on Tuesdays.
I cringe when you use solvents to clean your gun without gloves. PLEASE USE PROTECTION ON YOUR HANDS!
But he's using his skin to protect his hands. Nowt wrong with that. ;)
As luck would have it
Hi, you only paid 10$ for the gun. If you bought a Sata them maybe, just maybe you would have got a wrench. Trust me, I know as I have 25 spray guns, so, I have a stash if soanners, brushes, etc. Oh by the way, always remove the needle first. Never remove the fluid tip first, Sign of a Newbie!!! The term is air cap which atomizes the material on to the substrate surface.
Sealant is a sign of a cheap gun. Never see this on a Devilbiss, or Iwata. Always on rhe cheapo Chinese or Tiawanese Shite. In fact, I threw 2 new Chinese guns out, yes, right in the trash can. Will not use that low down rubbish.
I’m sure carb cleaner is good for skin. Lmfao. Anyway good overview thx
The tingling means it’s working.
A garbage Harbor Freight gun is a complete waste of time ~ cheap tools represent the single biggest mistake DIYers make when approaching these types of projects. Truth: never look at tools as an expense ~ they are actually an investment that you make in order to get superior results. They also represent an asset you can sell once the job is done, and in the end it will cost less than renting. Best budget HVLP Systems: 1st choice: Fuji 2202 Semi-PRO 2 & 2nd choice: Earlex HV5500.
You talking too much
You listen too little.