Post processing huge 3D prints: Metal & Bone + 3D Gloop
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ต.ค. 2019
- Previously I 3D printed an enormous T Rex skull and custom life sized helmet by Markom3D. I was still coming to terms with the CR-10 Max so the quality was a bit average. In this video, I use a variety of techniques to transform these items into something I am proud of. The helmet now has a hammer tone metal appearance, the the T Rex skull has been weathered to appear like old, excavated bone.
This was really challenging for me, I'm super impatient with sanding and generally avoid these projects. With that in mind I'm thrilled with how they turned out.
A word on 3D Gloop: Although I didn’t get the results I wanted, I honestly think this was an anomaly. 3D Gloop has a good reputation and based on my dealings, I can see why. They were professional, polite and detailed with their assistance. They were not afraid of constructive criticism and the chance to improve their products. I look forward to trying the ‘3D Gloop V2’ with better brush and the spray on ‘Glooped’ in the future.
3D Gloop store: www.3dgloop.com/
Helmet by Markom3D video: • 3D Printed Scifi Helme...
Helmet by Markom3D Thigiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:388...
T-Rex skull: www.thingiverse.com/thing:308335
Joel from 3D Printing Nerd successful test of 3D Gloop as an adhesive: • This Can't End Well //...
Devin from Make Anything successful test of 3D Gloop as a smoothing agent: • PLA Smoothing 3D Print...
Adam Savage weathering demonstration: • One Day Builds: Adam S...
A previous video I made on acetone smoothing and flocking: • 3D printing post proce...
CR-10 Max review: • CR-10 Max review - Is ...
AMX3D support removal tools: • AMX3d tools review - M...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
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Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
I'm so glad I found your channel via another TH-camr, who will remain nameless, who was trashing your channel. Now I prefer your channel over theirs.
Wait, someone did that? Id be tempted to see it. Sounds laughable
Who is trashing Teaching Tech and what kind of merit do they think they have? This channel is one of the best educational channels for 3D printing and other technical hobbies.
There is one guy who constantly has tantrums about not being more popular or wealthy off his terrible videos. He also accuses anyone with success of stealing from him. I had to go look and yup. Found it. Lol
I don't think he means it to be as bitchy as it comes across, but he sounds very bitter and petty in his video. They both do a good job as far as making videos I think, but they cater to slightly different audiences. But yeah, saying that someone is stealing for having a similar or even identical title on a video is quite the stretch.
I can’t stand DPT. Stopped watching him a year ago after one of his tantrums about Prusa. So he’s targeting Michael now? I’d call him a child, but that’s an insult to children.
My process for ultra smooth print : Dip the object in hot water ( gonna save 50% of your time ) then light sand with 180 grid. Wood filler like a pig then smooth with water and sponge. Sand wood filler 180 / 500 / 1000 ( optionnal ) then 3 / 4 coat of primer and sand gently 500 / 1000 / 1500. It's gonna be smooth has ice without too much effort :)
Great tips, thanks for sharing.
Once again thank you for the support. I am glad that you have been able to produce something so awesome and share it with everyone.
I'm sure this is a copy of an unreleased video from design, prototype test guy
LOL
Keep going, Michael. Your channel is much better.
Comming soon: the first 3d printing channel to be on "inside a mind"
Michael definitely stole his intellectual property and should give him credit for the idea. DPT's video was the goofiest and most whiny thing I have ever watched... And it was made by a GROWN MAN. He needs to take a break from the platform, maybe leave entirely, because I don't see him recovering form this one.
BAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHA
Great video. Nothing wrong with seeing some layer lines (IMO). After all, 3D printers are still a mystery to a lot of people. You tell them you 3D printed it, while watching their expression never gets old 😀Some fantastic work there once-again.
@Brian Hillard I completely agree, most people still cant get their head around 3D Prints being designed AND created in the home. We might as well tell them we've been to Mars, I think it's would elicit a very similar look of awe and disbelief. Still enjoy see it though 😃
I loved "I am impatient". I think that's my mantra my friend.
Best host and channel! Amazing work man!
I like the fact that you can't be bothered to sand them for hours - that's my attitude as well ! I have a couple of different makes of car primer that are designed to be used on plastic and designed to be a filler. I haven't yet decided what I'll use them on. Gotta say, I'm really loving your videos and the way that you show the whole process of what ever your subject is.
Hi, I think your video has inspired me to finally try something. I see all the super nice finished models and know they just spent tons of time doing it. But you mention being impatient so you probably spent as much time working on yours as I want to on mine. And I like your results and agree with your conclusion. Thanks for this "everyday Joe" processing video!
this video was really wholesome, my respect and appreciation for TT has increased quite a bit lately, thanks!
Thanks for this video. I am doing the same with my models. Another useful tool I use is, the Belt Sander! If you are quick, and light, it really can strip the layers away quickly. I hate sanding also, and like it quick, but, I am careful to not melt the plastic, and I really do like a smooth finish.
I too, found out about the wood putty idea, awhile ago. It is such a great medium to use. Much easier than using car bog (epoxy resin paste). Better for quick sanding, and easier to apply.
Thanks again for sharing your ideas. Love your videos.
Please keep up the great work! Your content is fantastic and awesome Michael, plus you're an F1 fan ;)
i got the same results that you got with the 3d gloop. works great as glue but it didn't smooth anything .
Same here, incredible glue. For smoothing use XTC-3D
"And being water based it means its non toxic"
UUUUUM.... Hahaha
Yep the wording was poor. This particular putty is quite safe. We let the kids use it at school.
Speaking from experience? Don't put everything in your face.
@@TeachingTech I know, I'm just joking man! I thought it was funny.
Great work 👍, looking good 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
The price of the gloop is outrageous for 120ml bottle not to mention the price of postage from the USA to Perth would be ridiculous. That just makes it way out of budget for smoothing a model, as a glue it would be ok as you don't use that much. Thanks for sharing Michael.
I'm with you on the sanding. I used to not mind it...but now i have severe carpal tunnel and its impossible.
Really awesome end results, keep up the good work! :3
Great work Michael. I completely agree, getting the results you want is far more important than another's idea of perfection, it's artistic after all. Personally you've done a great job, they both have their own character. I'm not a fan of sanding either. A little tip I came across is to 'wipe' with the heat gun after sanding, it will bring back the original colour and get rid of the whitening. Of course, it's not really relevant when you're going to paint.
The best lazy smoothing variant is to just brush on some epoxy. I used XTC 3d before, which works great, but you can use any epoxy really. I also always wondered if sand blasting 3D prints would give acceptable results.
At some stage I will get a sand blasting setup in my garage. Need to clean up first to make room.
Hand sand away the large imperfections and then three coats of quality primer paint followed by your preferred top coat should produce a high quality finish without any layer lines.
Faster, cheaper, easier and safer than the processes outlined in this video.
of course. But the video maker was looking for a better solution. Sanding sucks.
@@GerardHammond The initial rough hand sanding is done during the inspection of the part after the printing is completed. It typically takes less 30 seconds and is only required to remove the large imperfections. The coats of standard commercial primer fill in the layer lines and provide a base for the top coat.
I have found using Bondo brand bondo glass putty and apply by hand(rub into surface with fingers) works really well and cuts down on sanding.
Great video. Have you tried XTC3D for filling layer lines and impertections? It’s easy to apply and gives a smooth surface for painting.
Not yet but I wouldn't mind.
#TeamTrees ! go go go 3d printing fans! lets do this
PLA is an absolute bitch to sand. I've been working on a couple of printed items for a fallout cosplay. Primarily the combat armor. I can confirm that sanding is 90% - 95% of the process. My recommendation. Start with 80 grit to really knock dow the layer lines. Then move to higher grits. I went from 80, 120, 220, 320 and finally 400. Occasionally spraying filler primer or regular paint to fill in micro scratches. After all of that, wet sanding and battle damage. It achieved very nice results.
Don't worry Michael your content is so much better. For some reason that other channel has always had that negative vibe. Always ranting about something. He has some good content and he should've just concentrated on providing the best content instead of looking for something to b***C about. Carry on the good work and we'll be here to support you.
Great Video BUT! What interested me the most? that finger Sander. OMG I've needed that for years. Ryobi was it? Got a HD close to me.
Yes Ryobi. I have an old corded one and recently got this cordless 18v version.
@@TeachingTech
found it on Ryobi's site.
I use spray filler/primer.. it works well to fill in small layer lines... for larger gaps and issues, I use bondo (pre-mixed in the tube)
Dude, that's my favorite paint to paint stuff with! One version of my davinci Frankenstein x-carriage is painted with it!
To whom it may concern: you can mix acrylic gel (aka structure gel) maybe even Mod Podge with plaster (gypsum) and apply. You can add a bit of water for an easier application or use a large brush to create texture. When dried it's relatively hard and feels like a pure plaster cast but still sandable.
I think the T Rex Skull looks great--but yes--the teeth are an issue.
The helmet--not so much. But thanks--I think about this all the time--smoothing PLA and I don't have a solution at all--So thanks for the tips.
My experience with Gloop has been about the same. It is one of the best adhesives available for PLA, and a good bed coating. But claiming it smoothes, is a bit of a stretch. I have had some luck smoothing layer lines on small, delicate pieces; but it also kind of melted them a bit, loosing detail. It just seems to build up on larger areas
While it is a great adhesive, Magigoo is a more cost effective bed coating. The shelf life of the PLA Gloop is also very short. I have yet to use all the contents of a bottle, before it dried up inside. Apparently it can be thinned, but they will not disclose what to use.
Hi great video. Was the T rex skull one solid piece printed on a large printer or was it the one that comes in about 10 smaller sections. Saw a post of one on a pool table that a girl was sticking her head in. Each piece was a different color to show the sections. Just upsized from a ender 3 pro to a cr10 to print that one and was worried about the joint lines showing. Thanks.
This skull was only two pieces: skull and jaw. It's linked in the description.
TY
great video i have a print i been working on and need a way to fix it thanks do much
You can easily smooth PLA with dichloromethane also known as as DCM or paint stripper. If you cant get it in your country its almost always available as welding spray or anti spatter spray. Works like a charm just make sure it doesnt contain oil.
I may try this also, available at Bunnings, Poly Brand Original Formula.
Would toluene or xylene help with smoothing if you put small amounts on? It should dissolve pla
In the background, you have a purple vase. What filament did you use? In the video it looks like it might be color shifting? Is that the case, or really just purple and an effect (or artifact) of the camera?
It's x3d purple PLA. Not colour changing but a striking colour nonetheless
I'm going use fiberglass resin in my next project to help with layer lines
I think product like 3D Gloop, Liquid epoxy, fiberglass, would work best by being applied generously where the coating material would self-level above all layer lines. PLA being difficult to sand may actually prefer file/rasp with rougher teeth over sand paper, clean the rasp with wire brush often. Higher temperature PLA+ may do better on finer sand paper.
see i have the opposite problem as you; i want to rush my prints and get them off the machines so i can get into all the nice peaceful hours of sanding :P
Hey I know it's late, but you don't need to cut hot glue. You can quickly peel parts with isopropyl alcohol. It causes the glue to disbond.
I'm curious what chemical is exactly in the 3D gloop to cause this reaction.
Thx! 👍 This morning, 06/09/2020, I was trying to find the pricing for their spray Gloop. I couldn't see it being available anywhere. 🇺🇸 Ugh!
So if you add the post processing times (and cost) to something with a smaller nozzle and finer layer height, how does it compare (with paint coming from a $2.50 can)?
For smaller prints I think a small nozzle would be better. On these monster printer you might die waiting..
So cool!
Have used 3dGloop as glue and once for smoothing. It works well. Here is the one problem with the product, it has a limited shelf life from the time you open it. Every time I went to the bottle there was significantly less than when I had put it back up. After about 3-4 months what was left set in the bottom of the bottle. If I had a big project and knew I would be using a bottle fairly quickly it's well worth it. If I'm just gluing small stuff occasionally and not smoothing super glue is still better.
Love your channel 👍I was wondering if you could please do a review on the new tevo tarantula pro please 😁 keep up the great work 👍
They both look pretty good in the end. I will say that PLA is an utter pain in the ass to sand, it's to hard and melts to easily, I don't bother sanding or filling it. Of all filaments HIPS is a much better option (costs the same as PLA as well) but stinks when printing, the upside is you can use modelling glue to weld bits together and it sands stupidly easy. Pretty sure you can use D-Limonene to smooth HIPS as well.
Got a tip with hot glue, use IPA on it, the IPA causes the glue to lose it's hold so it can just be pealed off, much easier than hacking away with a blade. Another thing (I haven't tried this yet) but apparently Dichloromethane also known as Methylene chloride can "smooth" PLA and weld it together, it's one of the main chemicals in most paint strippers and solvents and probably the main chemical in 3D Gloop as well.
Spray on primer filler worked for me, most auto stores have it. =)
Rustoleum Filler Primer is the POOP! LOL
@@drkline69 thats the name of it lol
We use it for the F1 cars at school but I didn't have a chance to visit an auto store with it in stock while making the video.
Cornice cement might give better results than the timbermate putty. CC dries to a hardness similar to that of plaster of paris. Your local Bunnings sells it for $12.90 -2.5kg bag.
Fairmont :P
Very cool great video
Please spell what you put on the trex, what material is it (plaster / cement? Or something else). What did you spray on the skull before this?
💕 the T-Rex.
Helpful Hot Glue Tip if no-one mentioned it.
A very small amount (a couple of drops will do) of metholated spirit or iso-propyl alcohol will cause the hot glue to let go, and make it pliable and easier to remove.
Much safer than the blade, and much quicker and easier. :-)
ummm, the 3d gloop adhesive clip you showed where the dude and his son were held up by it: i only saw what you showed here so im sure theres stuff im missing, but from what you showed, they never show them held up and the glued components at the same time, one of the two is cropped out in each scene. Looks sketch to me, but im sure its just because i havent seen the full thing
why didnt you repair the model for printing? i know you probably look at the gcode preview so you should have seen that the model are all loose parts windows 3dbuilder could have fixed that in like 5 min just saying;)
supercheap auto has spray putty. it's about the best i've found for getting rid of layer lines. it is much thicker than any other spray fillers.
There's like 3 different cans there, which one in particular?
@@batman9592 the purple spray can. Item No. 288524
@@antonwinter630 Cheers Bud.
I've used it for F1 cars before, I agree it's good stuff. Just didn't have a chance this week to head to the nearest Supercheap, it's the opposite direction to work.
Review the new Evnovo/artillery genius which is the sidewinders little brother looks very good
Nice skull, helmet needs work. Both are outside my ability so good on ya
I've been using fiber glass resin to get rid of layer lines. Much cheaper than XTC3D or Gloop, and sands easily too.
for larger prints i do a 50/50ish mix of resin and bondo (for cost saving)
Good idea! Fiber glass resin is pretty cheap too if I remember. It's been a long time sense I looked at it
@@mrhomely $10-15 for a quart of the Bondo all-purpose resin.
Hey buddy, Ive been printing 1/18 RC car bodies and im getting awesome results from the $2.50 Motortech spray cans, (undercoat and yellow oxide) from AutoBarn and Supercheap Auto. the only down side is they take a while to cure, been such a high fill.
also... I highly recommend using a rotary tool with a flappy wheel, it self regulates the pressure and is less prone to overheating, with a quick buzz over the surface and 2-6 coats of a high full undercoat with a very light hand sand between coats it should be very very close to perfect..
Guys remember! #TeamTrees
Is that dimple effect intentional? It looks like the paint was loaded on too thick in one go.
I believe it is, similar to the old hammerite finish and better than smooth finish for hiding imperfections.
@@Cloudman572 Ah yes, the hammered look! I forgot all about that. I used to use it in grey and red, it was cool. It had more of a rippled effect that this one though. It was like a two tone paint with cool streaks in it. The helmet here just looks like the paint has wrinkled, like it hasn't adhered or cured properly before adding more coats.
Do you wear glasses/contacts my dude? I've noticed a few videos where your focus on the camera is way off. Half way into this video when you show the parts after drying for instance, I couldn't tell what it did since it was quite blurry.
I don't mean to be rude but it did effect the info you were trying to convey in the video
I don't but I hear your feedback. The issue on this video was it didn't fit into the time I had allocated. Therefore I play playing catch-up all week, working and filming in poor lighting.
@@TeachingTech I definitely feel that. Great vids anyway man!
.....there are some really good videos on TH-cam on how to use spray paint.
@9:40
Water solubility has nothing to do with toxicity. There are plenty of toxins that like water.
I can respect your impatience. I actually like post processing.
You're right I worded that poorly.
@@TeachingTech Youre still my favorite
Push files, don't pull. Great channel.
...and pull the glue nozzle. No point picking on him tho, obviously not his trade.
@@batman9592 Wouldn't pick on anyone, let alone someone who takes time to teach me what they know and Teaching Tech, like many other Tubers, has taught me a lot. I should post longer comments though but thought the last two words put the first four in context.
Why is everyone commeting "team trees"?
Sooooo Michael? Trex or future assassin for Halloween?
Something different, will be the next video
Not perfect ???? Looks pretty good to me ! You can get a plastic primer from Bunnings or any Automotive spray supply company that will allow you to use Automotive paints , you can then use spray putty and high fill primer . You can then use the Hammer finish as you did or any acrylic or air dry enamel you paint what you want .
One tip with rattle can paints is to either dunk them in a bucket of hot water for 15 minutes or leave them in the sun for a little while as the heat helps the paint to flow better .
TEAMTREES
Down to Supercheap dude and get spray filler from the automotive paint. Being Supercheap, it is rubbish quality for cars but acrylic bases shouldn't affect the plastic too bad as it dries quick. Also sands pretty well but you aren't a fan of sanding lol( none of us are).
14:10 TFW “I feel it looks like sh*t. I’m sorry”
NOOO!!!
Why oh why . . .
0,4 ;(
i think abs and acetone would be easier
I suspect you need a thicker coat of this stuff.
That's what it looks like to me, ie, needs more Gloop.
Apparently if it's too thick it makes a barrier on top of the plastic and the new coats can't react.
використовуй спочатку грунтовку (primari фарбу) а тоді фарбуй.
likely gloop is just old style paint stripper
Sorry but you do not need to get super close to notice any imperfections on the helmet. It looks pretty kitbashed ..
auto primer filler, soooo much easier
You shouldn’t be looking at the hardware store for supplies go to the auto parts store some kind of plastic body filler would likely be better
smoothing with this stuff is garbage, have tried numerous time, its really bad. It's great for glue and bed adhesion but its completely trash for smoothing even worse is when you try to sand it it goops up the sandpaper
I had the same results as you exactly the same NOT impressed at all by this product...
Hm. seems strange to be 1st
Aion here is a downvote to even it out