Build is coming along real nice, when I was younger like if I had to tweak that exhaust you did, sometimes I’d sit parts like that in a hot glass of water and it would soften up the parts so you could bend it, I must have gotten this idea from Scale Modeler magazine.
The Nascar teams cut out the package shelf and fabricated a dual hoop upper shock mount that came through the floorboard. They used rubber boots to seal the holes opened up for the shocks to run through. They used the glove box in the closed position to house the ignition components also. They had to use a pump for the rear differential that was then plumbed to a cooler and the rear of the housing at the ring and pinion with hydraulic hoses. The ones I saw used a pump called Water Puppy. There are good pics online.
Thank you for the information. I am sure that anyone that wants to add in those details to their kit will appreciate it! What do you think of the dual carb set-up. What racing would that be used in?
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage I am pretty sure the Dual Carb setup was used only in 1967 after nascar legalized the Hemi again and in an attempt for parity because Mopar's were winning everything gave the Ford Fairlane's the dual carbs on their 427 cubic inch engines. I believe very few 428 CJ's were ever ran in NASCAR. The 427's and Boss 429's were almost exclusively used during the late 60's thru early 70's Big Block days. Most teams used the Holman Moody air cleaner with an extra hole drilled in it for the duals. I believe the duals were only ran in 67 and may have been used briefly in 68 before being discontinued by NASCAR. The Fastback bodies on the Torino's and Cyclone's were more that the boxy Roadrunner's and Chargers could handle on the superspeedways. I hope this helps if you decide to do a true replica.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage I've moved on a bit from the windscreen fitting video and have just cut up and altered the other Cobra body to make a wide body kit😲👍😃
I did a little net research after work and this is a compilation of what I found. (But I did know this from before.) What is resin enamel paint? The term today means "hard surfaced paint" and usually is in reference to paint brands of higher quality, floor coatings of a high gloss finish, or spray paints. Most enamel paints are alkyd resin based. Some enamel paints have been made by adding varnish to oil-based paint. Breathing solvent paint fumes for too long can cause headaches, dizziness, and nausea. This can happen in a poorly ventilated space or when large areas are being painted or stained. These paints can even be deadly if they are inhaled on purpose, or "huffed", to get high. Keep the room well ventilated Open windows, doors and keep a constant airflow circulating within the room. Place a couple of rotating fans around the room, angled towards an open window, and they'll help get rid of the fumes. Don't switch the fans on until you've finished your coat of paint and it's touch dry. Also, the paint is more than 30 years old. I don't think many people have this in their collection anymore...just me!
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage The todays Resin paint have nothing to do with these old ones!These old ones are very resistant and even rust prove to some level but after spraying the paint it had to dry a couple of days and was more a satin finish!To achieve the high gloss finishes of the 50s and 60s they had to be polished by hand(no machine permitted,because the heat would destroy the paint) wich was very difficult and time consuming!Today the use of this colors is not permitted anymore in an industrial level because of beeing too hazardous!The todays resin paints are something completely different!Mostly they are now primers(Epoxy)are sandable and very rust-protective,mostly sprayed on bare metal(or even concrete) as sealer against penetrating moisture!🙂
@@williwass6837 Thank you for the information and history on these paints. I only have this one can and I would probably brush paint it on a few models, so nothing too "Industrial" of an application. I don't really like this red color though, so it's hard to say if I am going to use it much, or at all. .
Build is coming along real nice, when I was younger like if I had to tweak that exhaust you did, sometimes I’d sit parts like that in a hot glass of water and it would soften up the parts so you could bend it, I must have gotten this idea from Scale Modeler magazine.
That is a good idea and thank you!
I forgot about using hot water.
The Nascar teams cut out the package shelf and fabricated a dual hoop upper shock mount that came through the floorboard. They used rubber boots to seal the holes opened up for the shocks to run through. They used the glove box in the closed position to house the ignition components also. They had to use a pump for the rear differential that was then plumbed to a cooler and the rear of the housing at the ring and pinion with hydraulic hoses. The ones I saw used a pump called Water Puppy. There are good pics online.
Thank you for the information. I am sure that anyone that wants to add in those details to their kit will appreciate it!
What do you think of the dual carb set-up. What racing would that be used in?
I am going to use your comment in Video 8 where I show my NASCAR version.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage Drag Racing.
@@stealthbomber2127 But with the "NASCAR" designed dual air cleaner?
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage I am pretty sure the Dual Carb setup was used only in 1967 after nascar legalized the Hemi again and in an attempt for parity because Mopar's were winning everything gave the Ford Fairlane's the dual carbs on their 427 cubic inch engines. I believe very few 428 CJ's were ever ran in NASCAR. The 427's and Boss 429's were almost exclusively used during the late 60's thru early 70's Big Block days. Most teams used the Holman Moody air cleaner with an extra hole drilled in it for the duals. I believe the duals were only ran in 67 and may have been used briefly in 68 before being discontinued by NASCAR. The Fastback bodies on the Torino's and Cyclone's were more that the boxy Roadrunner's and Chargers could handle on the superspeedways. I hope this helps if you decide to do a true replica.
Coming on nicely now,Trevor 👍😎
Thanks 👍 - I hope it's helping you out, although I don't know if my place in the video is equal to your place in building it.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage I've moved on a bit from the windscreen fitting video and have just cut up and altered the other Cobra body to make a wide body kit😲👍😃
@@petesmodelcarcustoms584 Cool! That should look good. Use the rear wheels and tires from the AMT 1969 Dodge Daytona.
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage I haven't got one.but I have found some wheels I want to use. They are in the rack in last video.
@@petesmodelcarcustoms584 These tires also appear in the older AMT 1925 Model T Stock/hot Rod kits, maybe around 1988?
Hi Trevor!Nobody wants to use this old Resin colors!They take weeks to dry and you cant really sand it!And they are very dangerous for your health!!
Point well taken!
I did a little net research after work and this is a compilation of what I found. (But I did know this from before.)
What is resin enamel paint?
The term today means "hard surfaced paint" and usually is in reference to paint brands of higher quality, floor coatings of a high gloss finish, or spray paints. Most enamel paints are alkyd resin based. Some enamel paints have been made by adding varnish to oil-based paint.
Breathing solvent paint fumes for too long can cause headaches, dizziness, and nausea. This can happen in a poorly ventilated space or when large areas are being painted or stained. These paints can even be deadly if they are inhaled on purpose, or "huffed", to get high.
Keep the room well ventilated
Open windows, doors and keep a constant airflow circulating within the room. Place a couple of rotating fans around the room, angled towards an open window, and they'll help get rid of the fumes. Don't switch the fans on until you've finished your coat of paint and it's touch dry.
Also, the paint is more than 30 years old. I don't think many people have this in their collection anymore...just me!
@@MonsterHobbiesModelCarGarage The todays Resin paint have nothing to do with these old ones!These old ones are very resistant and even rust prove to some level but after spraying the paint it had to dry a couple of days and was more a satin finish!To achieve the high gloss finishes of the 50s and 60s they had to be polished by hand(no machine permitted,because the heat would destroy the paint) wich was very difficult and time consuming!Today the use of this colors is not permitted anymore in an industrial level because of beeing too hazardous!The todays resin paints are something completely different!Mostly they are now primers(Epoxy)are sandable and very rust-protective,mostly sprayed on bare metal(or even concrete) as sealer against penetrating moisture!🙂
@@williwass6837 Thank you for the information and history on these paints. I only have this one can and I would probably brush paint it on a few models, so nothing too "Industrial" of an application. I don't really like this red color though, so it's hard to say if I am going to use it much, or at all. .