Thanks for your Tube on the Class 66. Ive just followed your instructions and found that my 66 the 1 drive shaft had some how come out I replaced it and it was back on the track in 20mins THANKS
Hi Peter, Just have to say thank you for all your great videos. I use them as a source of reference and you all ways deliver! I have just taken some of my Bachmann class 66’s out of packaging from when I moved house 8 years ago and they need a good service. So where can I find a great video on how to take a Bachmann class 66 apart…….. your Chanel of course. I knew the ones you did on Hatton Class 66’s and sure enough found this one on Bachmann!!! Hope to get to meet you at GETS tomorrow, but thank you for your videos from the man shed and please keep them coming 👏👏👏 Best regards, Rob AKA Carlettbrook CB
Hi Rob and thank you. Yes say hello that would be great and Ohh no pressure but just had a look at channel and wow, so have subbed you LoL All the best Peter
Thank you Peter for sharing this video with us. I am Old School, so i do not have any of the more modern loco's. I would like to test and then strip down one of those motor as it appears that the fault accurs at a certain RPM with the motor under load. I watch many railway modelling video and I person I follow has changed motors in quite a few of his Hornby Loco's. He has aslo changed some before any problems arise. The motors that he fits are not always the same as that he takes out, but they fit. The part number is X6442 and they cost £1.99 each. They are from China. I know you now have some in reserve, but if you look up the part number on the motor I am sure you would be able to buy them a lot cheaper. Martin. (Thailand)
Hi Peter, Super clear video so far the definitive one I would say practice makes perfect so well done. Keep well and safe and hope you make it on Wednesday. Cheers Robert.
Hi Robert, thanks, really hope to catch you Weds, you do know that Allan and myself want a bit of fun and I hope we get it with you. Do us a favour bring a bit of tea and toast with you and show us, I bet that for sure will crack Allan up. :) Stay safe my friend, really hope we get to meet up one day, maybe at a show Peter
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 Hi Peter, Thanks for the reply tea yes toast no breakfast will be long gone by 9.30 so sorry to disappoint but hope all our super repartee will give Allan enough to start laughing as lets face it does not take much to start him off. I to hope we can meet at a show when ever that scenario recommences keep well and safe see you Wednesday. Cheers Robert.
I actually had an issue with the rubber sleeves at each end of the motor. My 66 started developing a loud sporadic grinding noise which also slows it down and I found out the rubber sleeves have come off their original position, meaning the flywheel was hitting on the chassis, causing the grinding. Easy fix, just got superglue to hold the rubber sleeves in its original place and it now works like a dream. Just a heads up if anyone develops this issue. 👍👍
Hi Chris, I have come across three types of motors now for the Bachmann, they are all the same 'motor' but two have rubber sleeves, they can 'all' be used on the class 37 model as on that one it does not use any sleeves due to the way its mounted in a cradle. One of my 66s had a mangled sleeve beyond repair I had to make a spacer to make the motor level, so as you say the flywheel did not touch the chassis. Ahhh the joy of model trains :) Cheers Peter
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 They are part of dc side of the board. I believe it's some E.U. code that has been changed if you look on your clas37 board they should not be there. I think Bachmann is just trying to ruin out stock.
Hi. You seem to know what you’re doing, and so I’m hoping you may be able to answer my query. Is there a way of accessing the motor on a Bachmann 66 (my eye sight isn’t great and don’t want to risk pulling wires from their solder) without removing the pcboard, and do you know where I would need to lubricate it once I have access please? Thanks in advance 👍🏻🚂
Hi Brian. I can only point you at the video where I show you exactly how to get to the motor. You don't cut any wires, instead you undo two screws which then allow you to put the PCB board over the side to let you get to the motor. Oil is used on the wheel bearings and white grease on gears.
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 thank you for your swift reply… investigating further I’m starting to think it may be a DCC/decoder issue causing the motor to not work at low speeds, rather than a dry motor.
Hi Rob, not done a 47 but have done a 37 and no a little more work needed on a 37 Its straight forward but I never got round to doing a video sorry For sure the 66 as far as I know is a lot easer job Peter
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 Hi Peter, thank you for the reply. I have squeezing in a Bachmann Class 25 and guess it is not as easy as your excellent video showed with a Class 66. With your how to fix the Hattons wobble abs now this your camera work and manner is really good. I am trawling through your back catalogue and really enjoying them. Many thanks, Rob
Hi Just watched your vid on the class 66. I've searched high a low for a similar vid re Bachmann 37. None. I have problem with mine in that it the drive to one set of boggies seems to be slipping on the rails. Read that it could be the plastic insert in one of the flywheels that's become unstuck. My problem is I don't want to create a nightmare. Any advice would be appreciated. Very good vid by the way. THANKS.
Hi William, yes I believe Sams Trains suffered a similar problem with a new loco were as you say the plastic insert in the flywheel was loose so not driving the drive shaft. Thing with the 37 is its a bit more work to get to the motor. What I did was unattached the wires to both wheel sets and unscrew and remove those wheel sets together with there drive shafts. Removing the wheel set makes it a lot easier to handle the model now. Unscrew the PCB board and un tangle the amount of wires thats hidden underneath it. Unscrew the plastic frame from the metal chassis. Find the wires that lead to the fuel tank switches and you should be able to pull down the fuel tank and you should be able to look into where the motor is and maybe get some glue into the loose insert at the end of a cocktail stick
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 Cheers Peter. Got the grandkids here at the minute but I'll have a go tomorrow when I have peace and quiet lol 😂. Think I'll take pics at each step for reference purposes. Thanks again.
Hi KRF, theres a lot out there that have never needed to be striped and given years of running with no problems, but it's nice to see how to do it if you want to do it yourself if it happens to you Cheers Peter
Had it for Xmas last year and made the error of not testing it, stored it away in till better weather. Ran it a few weeks ago and it's noisy as he'll, Richard at roads and rails stripped it down but motor is knackered, expensive mistake and bachmann say out of warranty buy s new motor
@@darrenspalding7490 Ahh yes Darren, got you now, I have seen your post about it . Still if this was new you would expected it to be OK. Has a product got a use by date otherwise it won't work? Richard sorted it for you I take it, hope so. Got to love this game. All the best Peter
Thanks for your Tube on the Class 66. Ive just followed your instructions and found that my 66 the 1 drive shaft had some how come out I replaced it and it was back on the track in 20mins THANKS
Hi Peter,
Just have to say thank you for all your great videos. I use them as a source of reference and you all ways deliver! I have just taken some of my Bachmann class 66’s out of packaging from when I moved house 8 years ago and they need a good service. So where can I find a great video on how to take a Bachmann class 66 apart…….. your Chanel of course. I knew the ones you did on Hatton Class 66’s and sure enough found this one on Bachmann!!!
Hope to get to meet you at GETS tomorrow, but thank you for your videos from the man shed and please keep them coming 👏👏👏
Best regards,
Rob AKA Carlettbrook CB
Hi Rob and thank you. Yes say hello that would be great and Ohh no pressure but just had a look at channel and wow, so have subbed you LoL
All the best Peter
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 Hi Peter, thank you and yes will look out for you.
Safe travels 😊
Thank you Peter for sharing this video with us. I am Old School, so i do not have any of the more modern loco's. I would like to test and then strip down one of those motor as it appears that the fault accurs at a certain RPM with the motor under load. I watch many railway modelling video and I person I follow has changed motors in quite a few of his Hornby Loco's. He has aslo changed some before any problems arise. The motors that he fits are not always the same as that he takes out, but they fit. The part number is X6442 and they cost £1.99 each. They are from China. I know you now have some in reserve, but if you look up the part number on the motor I am sure you would be able to buy them a lot cheaper. Martin. (Thailand)
Oh my goodness if I ever opened up a loco it would be doomed. Great stuff I enjoyed watching 😁
Fabulous video . Many thanks
Very informative. Did enjoy your tutorial. Use an old magnet, to magnetise you screw driver. That is what I did.
very nice video peter very well explained nice one all the best al 👍😄😄
Hi Peter,
Super clear video so far the definitive one I would say practice makes perfect so well done. Keep well and safe and hope you make it on Wednesday.
Cheers Robert.
Hi Robert, thanks, really hope to catch you Weds, you do know that Allan and myself want a bit of fun and I hope we get it with you. Do us a favour bring a bit of tea and toast with you and show us, I bet that for sure will crack Allan up. :)
Stay safe my friend, really hope we get to meet up one day, maybe at a show Peter
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162
Hi Peter,
Thanks for the reply tea yes toast no breakfast will be long gone by 9.30 so sorry to disappoint but hope all our super repartee will give Allan enough to start laughing as lets face it does not take much to start him off. I to hope we can meet at a show when ever that scenario recommences keep well and safe see you Wednesday.
Cheers Robert.
Looks like Alan has some competition will there be a speed trial next quickest 66 motor change !!
No Merv also note did't do it live too :) LoL
Peter
I actually had an issue with the rubber sleeves at each end of the motor. My 66 started developing a loud sporadic grinding noise which also slows it down and I found out the rubber sleeves have come off their original position, meaning the flywheel was hitting on the chassis, causing the grinding. Easy fix, just got superglue to hold the rubber sleeves in its original place and it now works like a dream. Just a heads up if anyone develops this issue. 👍👍
Hi Chris, I have come across three types of motors now for the Bachmann, they are all the same 'motor' but two have rubber sleeves, they can 'all' be used on the class 37 model as on that one it does not use any sleeves due to the way its mounted in a cradle. One of my 66s had a mangled sleeve beyond repair I had to make a spacer to make the motor level, so as you say the flywheel did not touch the chassis.
Ahhh the joy of model trains :) Cheers Peter
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 aye indeed, just the tiniest part on a loco can render it unusable, at least we both managed to fix ours.
Regards Chris
Peter, great.
the coils on the board are part of the noise choke design
Cheers James, so is that to do with AC/DC current ?
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 They are part of dc side of the board. I believe it's some E.U. code that has been changed if you look on your clas37 board they should not be there. I think Bachmann is just trying to ruin out stock.
@@jamesbraxton6132 Thanks very much James
Hi. You seem to know what you’re doing, and so I’m hoping you may be able to answer my query. Is there a way of accessing the motor on a Bachmann 66 (my eye sight isn’t great and don’t want to risk pulling wires from their solder) without removing the pcboard, and do you know where I would need to lubricate it once I have access please? Thanks in advance 👍🏻🚂
Hi Brian. I can only point you at the video where I show you exactly how to get to the motor. You don't cut any wires, instead you undo two screws which then allow you to put the PCB board over the side to let you get to the motor. Oil is used on the wheel bearings and white grease on gears.
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 thank you for your swift reply… investigating further I’m starting to think it may be a DCC/decoder issue causing the motor to not work at low speeds, rather than a dry motor.
There are other completely different components that Bachmann use that electrically work similar to compressors
Fair enough TTC, just hope I have no further need to investigate any more as alls well now :) Thanks Peter
Great video Peter, I have so far............ not needed to do this, but now know how. Are Bachmann 37's and 47's etc the same method? Many thanks, Rob
Hi Rob, not done a 47 but have done a 37 and no a little more work needed on a 37 Its straight forward but I never got round to doing a video sorry For sure the 66 as far as I know is a lot easer job
Peter
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 Hi Peter, thank you for the reply. I have squeezing in a Bachmann Class 25 and guess it is not as easy as your excellent video showed with a Class 66.
With your how to fix the Hattons wobble abs now this your camera work and manner is really good. I am trawling through your back catalogue and really enjoying them.
Many thanks,
Rob
Hi Just watched your vid on the class 66. I've searched high a low for a similar vid re Bachmann 37. None. I have problem with mine in that it the drive to one set of boggies seems to be slipping on the rails. Read that it could be the plastic insert in one of the flywheels that's become unstuck. My problem is I don't want to create a nightmare. Any advice would be appreciated. Very good vid by the way. THANKS.
Hi William, yes I believe Sams Trains suffered a similar problem with a new loco were as you say the plastic insert in the flywheel was loose so not driving the drive shaft. Thing with the 37 is its a bit more work to get to the motor. What I did was unattached the wires to both wheel sets and unscrew and remove those wheel sets together with there drive shafts. Removing the wheel set makes it a lot easier to handle the model now. Unscrew the PCB board and un tangle the amount of wires thats hidden underneath it. Unscrew the plastic frame from the metal chassis. Find the wires that lead to the fuel tank switches and you should be able to pull down the fuel tank and you should be able to look into where the motor is and maybe get some glue into the loose insert at the end of a cocktail stick
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 Cheers Peter. Got the grandkids here at the minute but I'll have a go tomorrow when I have peace and quiet lol 😂. Think I'll take pics at each step for reference purposes. Thanks again.
@@williamhowie4121 Yes always take pics I do saved my bacon a few times :)
Be a bit worried doing a bachmann Engine had a look in some Lima’s but I’m getting rid of most the Lima’s now and going down bachmann dapol route
Hi KRF, theres a lot out there that have never needed to be striped and given years of running with no problems, but it's nice to see how to do it if you want to do it yourself if it happens to you
Cheers Peter
Peter Dixon yes it’s very helpful got to sort out my hornby 59 and Lima 66 Out first I think think I’ve split cogs on 59 and 66 needs a new coupling
I'm confused. No decoder or blanking plug?
Not needed to show how to change the motor afterwards of corse it would need a blanking plug or decoder
Hi , would be nice to see a class 37 motor change to compare- My Merl Evan motor bust after less than 1/2 hour running
Hi Darren, sorry not familiar with a Merl Evan motor can you explain please. Whatever 1/2 hour wow !!!
Peter
It's a colas class 37 Peter
Had it for Xmas last year and made the error of not testing it, stored it away in till better weather. Ran it a few weeks ago and it's noisy as he'll, Richard at roads and rails stripped it down but motor is knackered, expensive mistake and bachmann say out of warranty buy s new motor
@@darrenspalding7490 Ahh yes Darren, got you now, I have seen your post about it . Still if this was new you would expected it to be OK. Has a product got a use by date otherwise it won't work? Richard sorted it for you I take it, hope so. Got to love this game.
All the best Peter