For those curios of the appropriate metric sizes here they are: Caliper bolts: 12mm Caliper bracket bolts: 14mm Rotor removal bolts: 8X1.25 bolt use 8mm to remove etc. You're welcome and hope it helps.
That “rotor removal bolt” is very important as I found with my Honda Ridgeline. It was M8 x 1.25. Thanks for posting this! I was wondering what size that might be and hoping Honda just made all those holes the same size
For me it was 10mm bolts not 8mm to remove rotors I went to the shop just for the 8s and then after that didn’t work I used a 10mm bolt off my old Honda seat brackets and it worked I got a 08 base idk if this is a 04-06 thing with the 8mm
This is an excellent video, both informative and educational. Thank you for this. The anti-seize is true, so add the below comments commensurate with the video. I like the fact that Acura has the two Philips mounting screws that secure the rotors, then has the two threaded holes to use metric bolts to screw-in to pry-out the rotors. Not sure if American cars have this feature, but my neighbor has a GMC truck doing the same brake job. He can't get the rotors out after three (3) days on it. A real "pain-in-the-ass" for him. But lucky for me, these Japanese cars are well-engineered, well-designed, and made to last an easy 300,000 miles. Acura is simply the best for the DIYer, backyard mechanic, engineer, and tinkerer.
You must live in an area with no rust. LOL. Those two nasty little screws (JIS b1012 crosshead screws that take a #3 JIS crosspoint screwdriver......and not a true philips) are the reason so many impact screwdrivers are sold. AND they serve no purpose after manufacturing the car. Sometimes you can get them out, sometimes it's easier and faster to drill them out. They're a PITA and not something I would point to as a good design. This wonderfully rust free car sure don't exist around my neck of the woods, and the resulting fight to get the screws out would have made for a much more realistic video. And obtw, if you have the 6MT version then none of this video applies since they come with Brembo calipers in the front.
Thank you so much for the help! I was messing around with this thing for an hour and a half, almost gave up, and decided to TH-cam it. The other side took me 20 minutes. Thanks again
@@joeyflowers2056 prolly too late, j seeing this. for future reference tho, i do remember freaking out because the brakes didn’t engage when backing out of my buddies driveway after the job. had to stomp them fully and them decompress about four times before it kicked in. this is prolly a noobie mistake, ain’t done brakes before or since lol. hope this helps.
Nice vid. It's gonna help a lot of people. Since you're doing a specific vehicle 1) you ought to say the size of the bolts used to force off the rotor. from doing my Ridgeline, those bolts are critical (8x1.25 metric) and 2) you wimped out on the slide bolts: how do you know if they need grease or not. what do you do if the DO need grease? seems like you guys didn't use brake grease anywhere come to think of it....
@@shlumpgod are you two freaking kidding here? Go ahead and put 80 ft pounds on the caliper bolts and strip them out lol. It's 37 on the caliper bolts and it's 80 on the bolts that hold the bracket in... That's just for the front. The rear caliper bolts are going to be less probably closer to 25 off top of my head
I wish you had one for the rear - seems they're practically the same with one exception (possibly?) that the brake piston gets turned to go back into the cylinder rather than pushed in as you did with channel-locks - would that be pretty much the only difference? Or can the rear brake pistons also get pushed in with channel-locks?
You'll get the fronts done in about 45 minutes in total for sure considering you have decent tool/mechanic knowledge, but most importantly dependent on is those rotor screws are stuck 😭😭😭
Currently going through that with my 04. Driver screw came off almost too easy. Had it done in about 15/20 with hand tools. The other 3 are rusted in there. Wd40, heat, hammer and punch, impact screwdriver, heat, heat and they still in there. My last choice is tap and die kit.
I didn’t remove the fluid reservoir prior to pads replacement. I didn’t disconnect any brake lines either. But the brake pedal seems really spongy. Should I bleed the system now even though I don’t think I let any air into the system?
@@2carpros After installing the pads I jsut pressed the pedal firmly and released it. Done like a copule of times, I think. Should I do anything else now or jsut bleed the system?
No torque specs for caliper pin bolts n caliper bracket bolts, no anti-seize on the hub or underhat of the rotor, no brake grease on metal clips that goes on bracket, no anti-seize on shims of the pads, no silicone grease on the caliper pins, terrible video. If you follow this video, don't be surprised if you experience squeaks or uneven brake pad wear where you will end up replacing your pads quicker. Oh and also, I advise people to have breaker bar for first timers. If bolts r hard to take off, breaker bar will help loosen them. If you apply proper lubricants, your brakes will last longer and also, easier to work with next time you do a brake job. If you wanna go extra mile, I suggest bleeding brakes too and if you do, then you dont have to blred them ever again as long as you use turkey base and drain and replace brake fluid from your reservoir every 2 years. Make sure none of brake fluid drip anywhere on metal or paint bcz they're corrosive and can rust the metal or damage the paint.
thank you for this comment, its very easy to overlook these things. would you say that this video is still helpful just as long as we keep in mind the things you've mentioned?
notoriousone It's useful in terms of seeing how the brake system for 04-08 TL gets disassembled and reassembled with new pads and rotors since every car brand n model, even year, are set up differently. I just wish this video contained lubricants on right places while mentioning torque specs. Torque specs are important because you dont wanna overtighten any bolts, whether it's caliper bracket, pins, etc. Lubricants are important because it prevents uneven wear, squeaks, rusts while making your brake job easier to work with next time u do it again.
EdDy4RheelZ I like to open the bleeder screw when retracting the pistons so the contaminated fluid is expelled instead of getting pushed back into the lines
hey there is it possible if you make a video on how to remove the rear brake pad and rotors off a 2005 acura tl it will be very appreciated if you can make a video thanks
This is exactly what I did to both wheels, but now I'm having this very high pitch noise coming from the left side only. Can you tell me why is this happening?
I would go over your repair and take it apart piece by piece to see what went wrong. No worries every mechanic makes mistakes, but go over your repair ASAP because it is a major part of the vehicle and safety.
Might mention the use of a breaker bar and the size of the “rotor removal bolt” (probably M8 x1.25) Does anyone with a air ratchet need instructions on how to do a brake job? These are key points for people doing this job with hand tools
+TheMajorPena Bleeding the brakes is not necessary when you compress the brake piston back into the caliper then pumping the brake pedal after the repair to squeeze the brake pads to the rotor.
Video is probably too old for anyone to see this but the metal brackets have a rubbing noise to them when I’m driving but they are installed correctly. Should I be worried
stripped my caliper. Should have taken to shop :( so the two huge bolts going into the caliper are going into aluminum.. The torque spec in the repair manual is wrong at 110n, its too much for the aluminum
For those curios of the appropriate metric sizes here they are:
Caliper bolts: 12mm
Caliper bracket bolts: 14mm
Rotor removal bolts: 8X1.25 bolt use 8mm to remove etc.
You're welcome and hope it helps.
Franklin Doungahnont manual transmission =
19mm bolts
10mm hex
Does anyone happen to know what size bolt and thread pattern are they using to push the old rotor off?
That “rotor removal bolt” is very important as I found with my Honda Ridgeline. It was M8 x 1.25. Thanks for posting this! I was wondering what size that might be and hoping Honda just made all those holes the same size
You are the best will def need these in the near future
For me it was 10mm bolts not 8mm to remove rotors I went to the shop just for the 8s and then after that didn’t work I used a 10mm bolt off my old Honda seat brackets and it worked I got a 08 base idk if this is a 04-06 thing with the 8mm
This is an excellent video, both informative and educational. Thank you for this. The anti-seize is true, so add the below comments commensurate with the video. I like the fact that Acura has the two Philips mounting screws that secure the rotors, then has the two threaded holes to use metric bolts to screw-in to pry-out the rotors. Not sure if American cars have this feature, but my neighbor has a GMC truck doing the same brake job. He can't get the rotors out after three (3) days on it. A real "pain-in-the-ass" for him. But lucky for me, these Japanese cars are well-engineered, well-designed, and made to last an easy 300,000 miles. Acura is simply the best for the DIYer, backyard mechanic, engineer, and tinkerer.
Thank you for watching!
Man you just made me feeel so much better for choosing an Acura thanks man if you have any tips let me know stay up 🙏🏻
The TL is USDM, made in the states.
You must live in an area with no rust. LOL. Those two nasty little screws (JIS b1012 crosshead screws that take a #3 JIS crosspoint screwdriver......and not a true philips) are the reason so many impact screwdrivers are sold. AND they serve no purpose after manufacturing the car. Sometimes you can get them out, sometimes it's easier and faster to drill them out. They're a PITA and not something I would point to as a good design. This wonderfully rust free car sure don't exist around my neck of the woods, and the resulting fight to get the screws out would have made for a much more realistic video.
And obtw, if you have the 6MT version then none of this video applies since they come with Brembo calipers in the front.
Thank you so much for the help! I was messing around with this thing for an hour and a half, almost gave up, and decided to TH-cam it. The other side took me 20 minutes. Thanks again
Did this job for the first time yesterday with only this video as a guide. Thank you!
Xaver Marshall Great to hear! please subscribe if you haven't already.
Video was trash
Do you step on the break to build pressure every brake or at the end of all four
@@joeyflowers2056 prolly too late, j seeing this. for future reference tho, i do remember freaking out because the brakes didn’t engage when backing out of my buddies driveway after the job. had to stomp them fully and them decompress about four times before it kicked in. this is prolly a noobie mistake, ain’t done brakes before or since lol. hope this helps.
Nice vid. It's gonna help a lot of people. Since you're doing a specific vehicle 1) you ought to say the size of the bolts used to force off the rotor. from doing my Ridgeline, those bolts are critical (8x1.25 metric) and 2) you wimped out on the slide bolts: how do you know if they need grease or not. what do you do if the DO need grease? seems like you guys didn't use brake grease anywhere come to think of it....
Thank you for creating this video! I just changed mine and couldn’t have figured it out with your step by step! Appreciate it bro!
Awsome! Thanks for watching!
Do you have to bleed the brakes? Have a Acura TL 2014
37 and 80 ft lbs. You're welcome.
Which is which
Not very informative
@@shlumpgod are you two freaking kidding here? Go ahead and put 80 ft pounds on the caliper bolts and strip them out lol. It's 37 on the caliper bolts and it's 80 on the bolts that hold the bracket in... That's just for the front. The rear caliper bolts are going to be less probably closer to 25 off top of my head
And the bolt sizes?
6yrs later you still the goat, thanks man 🥹
hey i loved your video can you make one for the rear ? that would be awesome
Great video. At a minimum, if I don't do it myself, it tells me the shop should not charge more than about an hour for both fronts.
Awesome video clip presentation on how to DIY brake pads and rotor replacement. Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Can you make a video or give advice on how to replace the rear ones, please.
It’s the same concept. Don’t attempt if you are not comfortable take off things
Clear and concise. Thank you for a quality video.
Thanks for watching!
Great , easy to understand video! Is the procedure for the REAR Brakes and Rotors the same on this model car?
Thanks for watching! Yeah basically. It will look a little different but the process is the same.
What size bolts did you use to remove the rotor.
I 2nd this. I can't find this info anywhere
8X1.25
Hammer
Good video on replacing the front brakes
What kind of bolts did u use to remove the Rotors?
Right??
Should have put anti seize where the brakes contact the mounting clips
Grease the brake pads a little as well
One comment, it didn't look like the old rotor needed changing, since it was almost the same width as the new one. Other than that, great video!
Can you make a video of how to change the spark plugs on a Acura TL 2005
what kind of volts/size did you used for removing that rotor sir?
I wish you had one for the rear - seems they're practically the same with one exception (possibly?) that the brake piston gets turned to go back into the cylinder rather than pushed in as you did with channel-locks - would that be pretty much the only difference? Or can the rear brake pistons also get pushed in with channel-locks?
Can I just use hand tools when doing my breaks pads not gonna change rotors yet still smooth
Good video clip. Informative brake rotors replacement..! Thank you for sharing the knowledge...
Thank you for watching!
My car is aucra 2008 tl and the brake caliber is different then your. Any idea how to brakes replace
Is it the front or rear?
What is the appropriate size metric hardware you used in the video? I imagine it would be the same for 2004-08 Acura TL.
Thanks for the video btw.
In my head I can do this in 30 minutes, in reality is going to take me 3 hours 😂☠️
You'll get the fronts done in about 45 minutes in total for sure considering you have decent tool/mechanic knowledge, but most importantly dependent on is those rotor screws are stuck 😭😭😭
Currently going through that with my 04. Driver screw came off almost too easy. Had it done in about 15/20 with hand tools. The other 3 are rusted in there. Wd40, heat, hammer and punch, impact screwdriver, heat, heat and they still in there. My last choice is tap and die kit.
I didn’t remove the fluid reservoir prior to pads replacement. I didn’t disconnect any brake lines either. But the brake pedal seems really spongy.
Should I bleed the system now even though I don’t think I let any air into the system?
Did you prime the system by depressing the brake pedal slowly and letting it up slowly until you get a firm pedal?
@@2carpros After installing the pads I jsut pressed the pedal firmly and released it. Done like a copule of times, I think. Should I do anything else now or jsut bleed the system?
No torque specs for caliper pin bolts n caliper bracket bolts, no anti-seize on the hub or underhat of the rotor, no brake grease on metal clips that goes on bracket, no anti-seize on shims of the pads, no silicone grease on the caliper pins, terrible video.
If you follow this video, don't be surprised if you experience squeaks or uneven brake pad wear where you will end up replacing your pads quicker.
Oh and also, I advise people to have breaker bar for first timers. If bolts r hard to take off, breaker bar will help loosen them. If you apply proper lubricants, your brakes will last longer and also, easier to work with next time you do a brake job.
If you wanna go extra mile, I suggest bleeding brakes too and if you do, then you dont have to blred them ever again as long as you use turkey base and drain and replace brake fluid from your reservoir every 2 years. Make sure none of brake fluid drip anywhere on metal or paint bcz they're corrosive and can rust the metal or damage the paint.
thank you for this comment, its very easy to overlook these things. would you say that this video is still helpful just as long as we keep in mind the things you've mentioned?
notoriousone It's useful in terms of seeing how the brake system for 04-08 TL gets disassembled and reassembled with new pads and rotors since every car brand n model, even year, are set up differently. I just wish this video contained lubricants on right places while mentioning torque specs. Torque specs are important because you dont wanna overtighten any bolts, whether it's caliper bracket, pins, etc. Lubricants are important because it prevents uneven wear, squeaks, rusts while making your brake job easier to work with next time u do it again.
EdDy4RheelZ
I like to open the bleeder screw when retracting the pistons so the contaminated fluid is expelled instead of getting pushed back into the lines
EdDy4RheelZ remove one brake line bolt for more hose. 37ft lbs caliper bolts. Bracket is like 90 ft lbs but I'm not positive
EdDy4RheelZ where can you take a car that will perform all this in service? I feel like trying to DIY will screw something up :/
hey there is it possible if you make a video on how to remove the rear brake pad and rotors off a 2005 acura tl it will be very appreciated if you can make a video thanks
What's the "appropriate size metric hardware" size? Is it just any bolt I can find that fits?
8X1.25
Do you have a video on doing the rear brakes?
Do you have to bleed the brakes? Have a 2014 Acura tl
Which type / manufacturer brake rotors and pads would you recommend for my 2008 Acura TL-S ? Is E-Line a good source?
Bosch is usually good or I usually recommend the OEM. Thanks for watching!
OEM is known to warp easy among the Acura community. If you want to spend a few bucks, Stop Tech or EBC.
@@ICantBreve I heard powerstop is also good but I hasven't used them. I have used brembo NAO pads and they were fantastic
Would love to see a trunk tortion bar replacement video for 2004-2008 TL
One question do o have to screw in those bolts to get the rotor off?
No, they just help. Thanks for watching!
What is the appropriate metric size bolt to remove the rotor?
Thanks! I'm gonna try it out tomorrow.
This is exactly what I did to both wheels, but now I'm having this very high pitch noise coming from the left side only. Can you tell me why is this happening?
I would go over your repair and take it apart piece by piece to see what went wrong. No worries every mechanic makes mistakes, but go over your repair ASAP because it is a major part of the vehicle and safety.
Probably a mounting clip is misaligned, scraping the rotor face.
That also could very well be
Might mention the use of a breaker bar and the size of the “rotor removal bolt” (probably M8 x1.25) Does anyone with a air ratchet need instructions on how to do a brake job? These are key points for people doing this job with hand tools
What tool is that you use to tighten and loosen the bolts?
It's an air ratchet. A ratchet powered by an air compressor.
WHAT R THOSE?????? 8:06
cerealbox1543 LOOOLLL 😂😂😂
That's them comfort techs right there🤣
That's them church and work shoes
So no anti squeal paste is needed anywhere?
Hey where you purchase your electric socket wrench
It's pneumatic, and I got that off the Snap On truck 20 years ago. But many more are available on Amazon. Thanks for watching!
At 8:08, Michael Jackson with the assist!
Good video. You will always those who will have a negative comment.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent Job !!!
Thankyou Much
JEFFREY G DELABRE Thank you, please subscribe if you have not already.
How much would it cost from a mechanic
$400 out the door I'd guess. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros 485💀 fuck that shit i need to learn abs do it myself next time
Any one knows if acetone can be used instead of carb cleaner?
To clean the rotor surface? Yes. Thank you for watching!
what tool is that? the power one.
+Carlos HERNANDEZ It is an air ratchet tool.
Did u bleed the brakes
+TheMajorPena Bleeding the brakes is not necessary when you compress the brake piston back into the caliper then pumping the brake pedal after the repair to squeeze the brake pads to the rotor.
Video is probably too old for anyone to see this but the metal brackets have a rubbing noise to them when I’m driving but they are installed correctly. Should I be worried
The bracket for the caliper is rubbing on the rotor? It shouldn't, I'd take it apart and see what the problem is. Thanks for watching!
A C-Clamp works just as well if not better than channel locks to compress the caliper piston.
Yes it does work well, thanks for the comment
What size c-clamp works best?
Miranda_sso yes
Be nice If you tell the size of the bolts
Make sure you “TI TEN” your screws
Low Flynn dude made us an informative free video, and this is what you have to say? Don’t be an asshole.
Great job .thankyou
shoulda done the models with brembo front calipers....these are the base calipers just like any other car has
thank you!
Thanks for watching!
stripped my caliper. Should have taken to shop :(
so the two huge bolts going into the caliper are going into aluminum.. The torque spec in the repair manual is wrong at 110n, its too much for the aluminum
Bummer!
That's why torque specs aren't always the end all be all of everything that people hope they are. Sorry that happened and thanks for watching!
Only issue I have is mine don't have the screws
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Yeah im never putting on those screws that go on the rotor they all rusted and striped
I never do. Thanks for watching!
"using the appropriate sized sockets" but doesn't say what size they are.
Those gloves.... 😂🤦
They are in fact gloves. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Do you also work as a lunch lady? 😂
You didn't bleed the caliper. Why not?
JuanPablo no need to bleed the caliper because they did not disconnect it from the brake line.
Thi-TTTT-enn
Jayme Lanuza dude made us an informative free video and this is your take away? Don’t be an asshole.
Great video, thanks!
+JD Hailey No problem glad we could help. Please subscribe!