Change Mercruiser Alpha1 U-Joint Bellows - Part 2 Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- It is time for me to replace the U-joint bellows in my 1998 Mercruiser Alpha1 Gen2 stern drive. I have noticed that it has been developing wear marks on some of the convolutions on the sides of the bellows. The rubber has grooves worn in it, so I want to fix it before it begins to leak. If the bellows leaks, the water will damage the u-joints and gimbal bearing, as well as leak into the boat, with risk of sinking.
NOTE: THIS VIDEO is PART2, Be Sure to check you PART1 for removal and a summary:
Part 1 Remove U-Joint Bellows: • Change Mercruiser Alph...
I have purchased a number of parts and supplies, because in order to replace the bellows, there are a number of other parts that should be replaced due to age. Also, removal of certain hoses from the barbed fittings is near impossible and required cutting and replacing.
Content:
Prepare to Install U-Joint and Shift Bellows 00:03
Install Intermediate Shift Cable Bellows 5:22
Install U-Joint Bellows 10:06
Prepare Bell Housing for Installation 13:16
Install Bell Housing, Water Hose, and Water Tube 17:02
Install Water Tube Grommet / Bushing 21:31
Finish Bell Housing Installation - Install Pivot Pins 37:22
Install U-Joint Bellows Retaining Ring 46:20
Repairing Bad Spot In Casting - Water Pickup 52:45
Install Lube Monitor Hose 55:50
Install Shift Cable Bellows Clamp, Show Special Pliers I Made 57:30
Install Outdrive (Summary- Full video Link Below) 1:02:26
Install Intermediate Shift Cable Engine End and Check Adjustment 1:04:50
Part 1 Remove U-Joint Bellows
• Change Mercruiser Alph...
Remove / Install Outdrive Full Video:
• Check Engine Alignment...
Parts, Supplies, and Tools that I purchased:
U-Joint Bellows- 816431A1
Shift cable Bellows- 74639A2
Bellows adhesive- 92-86166Q-1
Water inlet hose to engine- 32-8M0215001
Lube monitor hose - 8M0214996
Outdrive gasket set Quicksilver- 94996Q2
Water tube grommet- 8165991
Red Loctite 271
Loctite activator 7649
Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket- 80019
Special socket for shift cable removal- SEI Marine 91-12037
Special tool for hinge pin removal- Sierra 18-9861
Bellows Retainer ring install tool- 91-818162
Made a special tool for shift boot clamp installation
Liquid Electrical tape- Starbrite
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Thank you!
The drive shaft bellows doesn’t get bellows adhesive when connecting to the bell housing? Please confirm. I am putting mine together tomorrow and don’t have the manual. Also, what is a good (auto parts sourced) spray to lube up the inner ring before driving it in?
I cannot find anything in the manual specifying the use of bellows adhesive on the drive shaft bellows connection to the bell housing. I checked this very carefully to be sure and did not use it on mine. The exploded view that indicates where chemicals are to be applied does not show adhesive at that location either.
The instructions are:
a. Position U-joint bellows on bell housing. Ensure that the bell housing flange rests
in the groove at the end of bellows.
b. Lubricate sleeve O.D. with engine cleaner (Quicksilver Power Tune works well and
it evaporates quickly) and install sleeve with tool and suitable driving rod.
Looking up the MSDS for Power Tune just indicates various petroleum distillates as the main ingredient. I expect that there are other cleaners that would work. I don't have a good recommendation, but I would look for a spray that cleans carbon on intake valves and combustion chambers since that is what Power Tune does.
Thank you so much. Fantastic video and very well done. Take care!
I have tried now twice to get my exhaust bellows on and secured. Both times the bellows eventually slides off despite being fully seated and glued. Any suggestions? Should I add more of those little silver tabs onto the bellows lip before securing with the hose clamp?
@@andrewbrown1463 The small clips are for grounding purposes to bite into the metal to get a good connection, they won't help retain. The book instructs to make sure everything is clean (no adhesive residue) with lacquer thinner and sandpaper. New adhesive should dry about 10 minutes. It needs that special tool (first in the first convolution, then in the 3rd convolution) to pull the bellows on all the way. The clamps have a torque spec of 30 to 40 inch-lbs. I usually need a tool stronger than a simple screwdriver to get that. Finally, I had trouble with one of mine that I was reusing because the rubber had aged and too stiff. It stayed on for a few weeks, but eventually came off again.
I can’t get my u-join bellow ring get in. I don’t know why, bellow always slips in on bottom part of the casting.
That's sounds tough. Well, as you probably can see, the bell housing has a lip that should go into the groove on the bellows. When I did it, I tried to get the bell housing as square as possible to the bellows. As inline as possible. When the bell housing was on an angle the bellows would tend to pop out. I used a small piece of wood across under the bell housing studs to help hold the bell housing straight, but it takes the right thickness. Then it really took a good whack with the dead blow hammer to get the ring to seat.
@@bitsofwisdom460 i tried that too.. Bellow always slipped off the lip on the bottom and went thru inside.
i bought OEM quicksilver bellow. It looks like there is different thickness of the rubber IMO.
Today i degreased bellow and housing, and filed off a little bit of the lip on bottom part. Than i applied qucksilver dellow adhesive and let it set. Also, bought Oatey Mechanical Test Plug 4'' and installed it inside the bellow where ring has to be and let it push on hoping rubber will lose a little and after 24 hours glue set and will protect bellow from slipping of the lip.
@@vrso2 Sounds like a good plan. Probably just need to be sure you have good lubrication on that ring so it slides easily. Mercury likes that engine cleaner because it evaporates quickly, I used it heavily. I don't know if there is anything better. They seem to want something that will dry and not be slippery later. On rubber hoses, I always use dish soap and water, but for some reason they don't suggest that.
One more thought, that ring is tapered so that it wedges the bellows out into the bell housing. The ring does need a good start into the bellows opening so that it can wedge and not push the bellows forward. Well lubricated, pushed and twisted in a little to get it started. I had mine come out of position after a first hit with the mallet and I had to restart it.
@@bitsofwisdom460 will try that.... thx :)