Dude, you're my hero. Every single video I've watched was done by mechanics that know how to do this in their sleep. No one wants to publicly admit they've made mistakes while figuring out how to do something. Not only informative, but brutally honest. Thanks.
Here's some tips for you DIY guys out there. Use the new gaskets. When you get the big carboard style gasket. It helps to grease that whole gasket with a light coat (enough to darken the color). So next time you need to do it, you won't spend 15 min scraping the old one off. When putting the new o-rings (water and u-joint) Use a light coat of bellows adhesive. That way they should stay on with out any problems. Also!!! Grease the fuck out of the splines of the u-joint and studs. Makes doing the next service much easier. Professional boat mechanic of 10 years
@@osbornebay944 you need to adjust the shift cable, if it's going in and out of neutral and forward good then it's just one bolt to loosen and you can ad more reverse engagement without messing up anything else
This video is put together exquisitely. It is also commendable that all pride was set aside and all of the mistakes and errors were kept intact and included. This really helps, but is something that is often edited out of many repair videos. Many thanks to the author for the time and effort put into this video simply for the sake of helping others. The world would better resemble a perfect place if there were more people like you.
Great video, I really like the way you show what could go wrong and you answered one of my questions about the oil running out if you pull the lower unit.
Man, you weren't kidding. This was a job and a half. I think it's the hardest thing I've done on this boat. I have a Bayliner 245 and just finished in time to watch the end of my vacation go by without using the boat; however, same out drive. Had not done this maintenance in the boats 16 years. Lots of bottle parts like the start drive reservoir hull pass through which broke when I tried to pull the line out of the bell housing. Word to the wise, cut the oil and water lines and replace them. It much easier than replacing these pass through the hull/transom. Another tip I learned was to put the gimble bearing, the oil seal and the gimble below aluminum ring in the freezer over night. The bearing, seal, and ring will contract enough to make installation just a bit easier. I learned this from a good marine mechanic. I had a bugger of a time getting the exhaust bellows on. Also I used the karate kick used in this video to get my out drive back on. This is a good video, but watch others too. I learned something from all.of them. Thanks!
Thank you so much, your info on getting the drive back on totally saved me! I used alignment tool and still had no luck but after watching this tried keeping counter clockwise pressure on prop while sliding drive on and the splines finally lined up. For this one major tip I am very grateful!!!
Awesome video! Thank you for your honesty and lessons learned. Truly appreciated. Many times you watch a repair video and they skip over the part about where they push, shoved, and swore trying to get something out or back in. Thanks again!
Hi, Fiero880. I just finished changing my Bearing and Bellows on my 1991 VIP. I couldn't have done this job without your video. Definitely the best one out there for this job. Thanks a Million!
Good work - good vid! "learn from my mistakes!" Very big and honest words! We say "The only ones who don't make any mistakes are the ones who don't work at all!" One small advice: Better use a torque wrench next time but indepently from this, if you have to tighten a 6 bolt plate, to avoid the plate from warping, start with the bolts in the middle (middle left, middle right, an then crosswise (e.g. upper left, lower right, upper right lower left) an do this in several (3 e.g. 2 or 3) slight steps. And as said above, for the final step a torque wrench is recommended. Greetings from Germany :-)
I have an OMC 3.0 and have removed the outdrive a couple of times. You are right, it is a hard job re-installing the drive. I made an A frame with a come-along to lift the drive and slip it in. Still took time to forever to get it to slip in. Nice video. JN
My favorite part is 12:50 when you stand up on the chair and give it the 'kiss my a$$ you're going back on" kick. Great video. Thank you for the insight.
Excellent video. Very detailed and the explanation on how to do the job was very easy to understand. Also great job on showing us what tools to use. Thanks!!
Thanks for the video.... rare someone eats there pride and says yeah i goofed up to save others the same frustration! Going to replace mine this weekend! Thank you man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Keep making repair videos if u need more repairs on ur boat???
thanks for putting this out there!, I have been having such a hard time with my stern drive to be placed back in. I put a new motor in my boat so went through the out drive too but alignment was off. I purchased the tools you used and hitting it again. Thinking positive
Way to go Fiero! You really look tired Bro. About to start the season and the marina owner told me my bellows are going to be a problem soon. I have a 1998 Maxum 3000 SCR, with twin 4.3L Merc. The price they're asking to repair both of them is $1800(Québec,Canada).Makes you think twice before throw away money. You seem to have a pretty nice place to work. I agree with EpiDemic, you should build an out drive stand, I used 2X3, cheaper and plywood. I suggest once your trailer is backup in your garage, lower down your trim to the position you would need to take out the out drive. Before doing so, build on site the stand. You won't need to use those muscles anymore, saves your back and you won't even need that big final kick LOL! Just by sliding or pushing your stand will do the job. The alignment should be great, if not, use the trim. I use a long screw driver horizontally and place it between the drive and the out drive before removing the trim bars, it will keep the alignment on the spot. With the stand it's pretty easy using your hand and holding the shaft (helping it into place,rotating if necessary) while pushing the out drive in place. Great fun! See ya (Steph)
Oh yea, one more thing - on Alpha 1 - I recommend you remove the front pin on the trim cylinders as well. Drop the cylinders down out of the way. Makes it a ton easier to get the outdrive back on. I'm no pro but I've struggled with it a time or two.
You can relate more to someone doing it the first time to learn from his mistakes. I learned more from this vid than I did from someone that does it all the time. You're right, it is a great vid for first timers.
Great vid. Helped a bunch. I just wish someone would also include where all the Orings go? I got tthe water inlet but what about the rest that come with the kit?
Great video fiero880, I loved your honesty admitting when you made mistakes and evaluating the time spent vs. the estimated cost to have somebody else do it for you. Having watched other videos about this I wonder if it would have been easier for you to remove the whole gimbal, as it looks like it is not to difficult to do it, and replacing the bellows with new ones seems like the right way to go when getting that far into the project (of course I have no idea what those bellows may cost, but I bet they are not that expensive to replace once you are in there). Anyways, thanks again not only for the knowledge I gained from the video, but for the inspiration too. I just got my first boat and just noticed that the water hose from the drive to the engine is leaking badly, so I need to replace it, and this video shows me all I need to know to take on that job (I'll get an estimate first. I'm willing to pay up to $500 to have that done. Anything more than that and that will be my turning point to do it myself). Thanks again and again.
I've always wondered why the don't put a shift rod seal in with this kit. When that seal goes bad, water gets in with the shift cable end. The water then make it's way up into the engine and drips into the bilge. I recommend to replace that seal when you have this all apart.
The alignment tool helps to adjust the bearing if you need reorient it but it isn't intended for that job. its made to align your coupler and yoke. its a tool worth having if you engine is truly miss aligned you'll go though a gimbal bearing every season or two. Mechanics generally just change your bearing and keep the true reason for its failure to them selves..
oh sorry i did see the bellows part.. guess the first time i saw it .. it looked like it had a tear in it too.. pretty informative vid for anyone that would want to try that job themselves, theres actually a tool to install the driveshaft bellows the proper way too.
There’s actually a couple o-rings on the driveshaft that fit inside the gimbal bearing. Sometimes it takes a bump or two to get the shaft through the bearing. Not uncommon to have to “persuade” it in that final little bit.
Tooth paste is an abrasive , aluminium oxide, very fine, but still an abrasive. Neoprene has very low reactance to water and petroleum products so normal marine and car grease should have almost no effect on the O ring.
Thank you for this video as it’s been a huge help. I recently removed my outdrive and see that I have a bit of milky oil in there. What would you say could be the issue there?
I love your video!! Very well explained and helpful. i have a question for you please. Does the rubber seal inside the gimbel housing next to the u joint bellows retaining ring just slide in up next to the retaining ring? Does it need to be glued?
Not sure. I did not glue mine in when I replaced it because it comes with the gasket set. But I do remember having some fun trying to get everything in.
fierro880....I need some expert advice. Ever since I have gone to thru hull exhaust in 2000 which comes out the side port, by the way my boat is a `91 Stingray 658zpx with a 350 Mercruiser Alpha One drive. The exhaust bellows hasn't lasted long and after replacing one last year it has already ruptured. I am thinking that since the warm exhaust water does not run thru the exhaust bellows anymore that it gets hard and brittle real fast. Now I am having problems installing a new bellows. So does one end always have to be connected to the transom side first? Right now it is connected to the drive side after I tried the transom side first. It would have to be pushed on some way or I have to take it off and connect on the transom side again and try using the zip tie method seen on a youtube video. Another question is, can you go without an exhaust bellows and just cap it on the transom pipe and if so, does the drive side need capping too? What are your suggestions and materials for capping the bellows pipe connections? Thank You sir!
Nice video... how did you align your bearing back to normal.. did you adjust the motor mounts?? or how did you get that alignment to to go all the way like is should thanks
So what was causing the water to drip into the inside of the boat? Im having the same issue, and currently trying to track down parts. Just looking to make darn sure I fix the problem!
Jeff - My opinion is the previous owner had stored the drive in the up position and it caused the bellows to come off partially on the one end - it pulled the clamp partially off too. I believe the water was getting in through that small opening. He fixed that by loosing the clamp, re-positioning it and reapplying the bellows adhesive. If you re-watch the video it shows the bellows where it was partially pulled off. The video does not show him actually fixing it.
The Thule says it doesn’t work works just fine for pulling gimbal bearing then replacing gimbal bearings for over 10 years and that’s the tool are use got to make sure that you have O-rings put on the puller
Inspect Bellow's for rips, tears, etc when the boat is out of the water and then just inspect them every season at beginning and end and when you see some parts of the Bellow's looking like they're ready to go replace them. The gimbal bearing I think is based on hours and use but when it actually goes bad you will hear the difference in the rear end of the boat
Thanks, I think I am about to feel your pain! Question..When I tilted my drive up last night while cruising into dock I noticed a lot of vibration and shaking, When tilted back down ran smooth? Does this sound like gimbal? Im thinking u joint? anyone have experience with this issue? and if so will I have to pull drive off for u joint?Thanks for sharing your experience with the world. Harry
Hi I have 1988 sea Ray it 5.7 mercruiser and I did tack off lower unit run part off do I need in gear to get back on so I can go in reverse Cox it not go in reverse thank Richmond lynch
Mate, great video. Has given me the confidence to attack mine. However, I am from Australia and all those tools are super expensive. Is there any chance that you could give the specifications of the alignment tool. Like OD and length of the two sizes and minimum length so I can machine one up. Someone told me it could be easier to do if you remove the gearbox, makes it not so heavy to handle and therefore easier to manipulate on the install.
Need some help here... I've done a engine swap and now put in a 2.5l diesel turbo.. on my first dry run I kept the engine on for about 4 mins.. and then check for hot spots ... I realised that the shaft was quite hot.. I realised that I had put the shaft forcebly inside with a lot of kicks..as the alignment was not fully accurate I believe... How can I realign the engine without removing the drive? Else it will be back to square 1. Plz advise....
Sounded like your bearing didn't have grease in it. Has a grease nipple and channel that the grease runs to the bearing. They run out of grease pretty quick
Dude, you're my hero. Every single video I've watched was done by mechanics that know how to do this in their sleep. No one wants to publicly admit they've made mistakes while figuring out how to do something. Not only informative, but brutally honest. Thanks.
Here's some tips for you DIY guys out there. Use the new gaskets. When you get the big carboard style gasket. It helps to grease that whole gasket with a light coat (enough to darken the color). So next time you need to do it, you won't spend 15 min scraping the old one off. When putting the new o-rings (water and u-joint) Use a light coat of bellows adhesive. That way they should stay on with out any problems. Also!!! Grease the fuck out of the splines of the u-joint and studs. Makes doing the next service much easier.
Professional boat mechanic of 10 years
Thanks Sir, advise well taken, I put the leg on and losing reverse, something wrong I did.
@@osbornebay944 you need to adjust the shift cable, if it's going in and out of neutral and forward good then it's just one bolt to loosen and you can ad more reverse engagement without messing up anything else
Bro..the kick to get that last 1/2 inch...I love this guy!!!! You had me there bud
Lol!!! Thank you!!
@@fiero880 Ya, that was funny as hell. Something I would do, love it dude.
This video is put together exquisitely. It is also commendable that all pride was set aside and all of the mistakes and errors were kept intact and included. This really helps, but is something that is often edited out of many repair videos. Many thanks to the author for the time and effort put into this video simply for the sake of helping others. The world would better resemble a perfect place if there were more people like you.
Mike, Sincerely, Thank you
The swift kick in the end was the best part. Thanks for all the details. I think this will help me out going forward.
LOL!!
Try silicon on water Oring
Great video, I really like the way you show what could go wrong and you answered one of my questions about the oil running out if you pull the lower unit.
Man, you weren't kidding. This was a job and a half. I think it's the hardest thing I've done on this boat. I have a Bayliner 245 and just finished in time to watch the end of my vacation go by without using the boat; however, same out drive. Had not done this maintenance in the boats 16 years. Lots of bottle parts like the start drive reservoir hull pass through which broke when I tried to pull the line out of the bell housing. Word to the wise, cut the oil and water lines and replace them. It much easier than replacing these pass through the hull/transom. Another tip I learned was to put the gimble bearing, the oil seal and the gimble below aluminum ring in the freezer over night. The bearing, seal, and ring will contract enough to make installation just a bit easier. I learned this from a good marine mechanic. I had a bugger of a time getting the exhaust bellows on. Also I used the karate kick used in this video to get my out drive back on. This is a good video, but watch others too. I learned something from all.of them. Thanks!
Beat part...”massaging” the drive back in with your foot! Priceless. Thanks for the video. This will be my go-to if I need it one day. 👍🏼🇨🇦
Thank you so much, your info on getting the drive back on totally saved me! I used alignment tool and still had no luck but after watching this tried keeping counter clockwise pressure on prop while sliding drive on and the splines finally lined up. For this one major tip I am very grateful!!!
Awesome video! Thank you for your honesty and lessons learned. Truly appreciated. Many times you watch a repair video and they skip over the part about where they push, shoved, and swore trying to get something out or back in. Thanks again!
Hi, Fiero880. I just finished changing my Bearing and Bellows on my 1991 VIP. I couldn't have done this job without your video. Definitely the best one out there for this job. Thanks a Million!
Good work - good vid!
"learn from my mistakes!" Very big and honest words!
We say "The only ones who don't make any mistakes are the ones who don't work at all!"
One small advice: Better use a torque wrench next time but indepently from this, if you have to tighten a 6 bolt plate, to avoid the plate from warping, start with the bolts in the middle (middle left, middle right, an then crosswise (e.g. upper left, lower right, upper right lower left) an do this in several (3 e.g. 2 or 3) slight steps. And as said above, for the final step a torque wrench is recommended.
Greetings from Germany :-)
I have an OMC 3.0 and have removed the outdrive a couple of times. You are right, it is a hard job re-installing the drive. I made an A frame with a come-along to lift the drive and slip it in. Still took time to forever to get it to slip in. Nice video.
JN
Also sometimes you have to turn the prop to align the driveshaft splines !
Thank you sir for your experience and expertise. I'm going thru this with my own boat at the moment and this was really helpful!
Thank you for posting! Went to Autozone and got the slide hammer and the rear axle pullers and came right out! Thanks!!
Anytime!!! That is the hardest part is getting the old gimbal bearing out.
My favorite part is 12:50 when you stand up on the chair and give it the 'kiss my a$$ you're going back on" kick. Great video. Thank you for the insight.
Thank you for the video! I am about to change my engine coupler and gimbal bearing. Wish me luck!
I knew I Liked this guy when he Impacted it back on and checked his Torque by hand ! Thanks for the video !
Excellent video. Very detailed and the explanation on how to do the job was very easy to understand. Also great job on showing us what tools to use. Thanks!!
100$ in parts 400$ for the tools lost from throwing them learning. Been there done that. Thank you for sharing. Saved me 400$ in lost tools
Rick, Anytime and Thank you
man wish i found this vid earlier would have save me soooooo much time... i have allready watch 30 plus vids... thanks man..
Thanks !!! that is what I'm doing this winter !!!
Thanks for the video.... rare someone eats there pride and says yeah i goofed up to save others the same frustration! Going to replace mine this weekend! Thank you man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Keep making repair videos if u need more repairs on ur boat???
Danny, Thank you!!!!
his goof ups will save me from doing the same, he just saved me hours , thanks
Thanks a lot! Gives me courage to carry on :-)
Hands down my favorite part! 12:45 - 12:52
Thanks! Excellent tutorial...
LOL @12:48 ... Had to watch that a couple times in a row. I can't even count how many times I've felt like that. Thanks for the great vid.
I had to watch it again a few times myself yesterday. Yes that kick was so well worth it.
AAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! You can see the frustration and then sense of relief in the kick! lol
thanks for putting this out there!, I have been having such a hard time with my stern drive to be placed back in. I put a new motor in my boat so went through the out drive too but alignment was off. I purchased the tools you used and hitting it again. Thinking positive
Way to go Fiero! You really look tired Bro. About to start the season and the marina owner told me my bellows are going to be a problem soon. I have a 1998 Maxum 3000 SCR, with twin 4.3L Merc. The price they're asking to repair both of them is $1800(Québec,Canada).Makes you think twice before throw away money. You seem to have a pretty nice place to work. I agree with EpiDemic, you should build an out drive stand, I used 2X3, cheaper and plywood. I suggest once your trailer is backup in your garage, lower down your trim to the position you would need to take out the out drive. Before doing so, build on site the stand. You won't need to use those muscles anymore, saves your back and you won't even need that big final kick LOL! Just by sliding or pushing your stand will do the job. The alignment should be great, if not, use the trim. I use a long screw driver horizontally and place it between the drive and the out drive before removing the trim bars, it will keep the alignment on the spot. With the stand it's pretty easy using your hand and holding the shaft (helping it into place,rotating if necessary) while pushing the out drive in place. Great fun! See ya (Steph)
Ridiculously helpful!!! THANK YOU!
Anytime !!!
Great video! Alot of useful information. Thank you
Thanks Fiero! Great Video!! I am so excited to give this a try and save myself a whole lot of money!!
Just don't give up and have the right tools. You can do it.
Oh yea, one more thing - on Alpha 1 - I recommend you remove the front pin on the trim cylinders as well. Drop the cylinders down out of the way. Makes it a ton easier to get the outdrive back on. I'm no pro but I've struggled with it a time or two.
Subscribed mate from Australia you've helped me already...stay safe.
Spot on mate follow your vids I done exact same today before I saw this and I basically had the same experience
Thanks Fiero! Your vid is terrific! Like the determination~
Anytime and thank you
That is the best bearing hammer ever! Just fantastic!
Thanks for the tips fiero880
getting ready to do mine
My first thought was, "do I want to watch a guy who is making-it-up as he goes?" Answer: emphatic Yes! Great video. Thanks for sharing!
You can relate more to someone doing it the first time to learn from his mistakes. I learned more from this vid than I did from someone that does it all the time. You're right, it is a great vid for first timers.
Great vid. Helped a bunch. I just wish someone would also include where all the Orings go? I got tthe water inlet but what about the rest that come with the kit?
Great video fiero880, I loved your honesty admitting when you made mistakes and evaluating the time spent vs. the estimated cost to have somebody else do it for you. Having watched other videos about this I wonder if it would have been easier for you to remove the whole gimbal, as it looks like it is not to difficult to do it, and replacing the bellows with new ones seems like the right way to go when getting that far into the project (of course I have no idea what those bellows may cost, but I bet they are not that expensive to replace once you are in there).
Anyways, thanks again not only for the knowledge I gained from the video, but for the inspiration too.
I just got my first boat and just noticed that the water hose from the drive to the engine is leaking badly, so I need to replace it, and this video shows me all I need to know to take on that job (I'll get an estimate first. I'm willing to pay up to $500 to have that done. Anything more than that and that will be my turning point to do it myself).
Thanks again and again.
Falcon Mac hi did you find out how much get charge in a marine shop?
Amazing video I have watch several on this subject since I am about to change it on my out drive and far yours are the best… thank you
Thank you for the video tour!
many thanks for your time and dedication to our boating hobby warner shelton ct
I liked the Karate kick!!! awesome...thanks for the video!
cool video on changing a gimbal bearing... thanx for the tips
Anytime and Thank you
I've always wondered why the don't put a shift rod seal in with this kit. When that seal goes bad, water gets in with the shift cable end. The water then make it's way up into the engine and drips into the bilge. I recommend to replace that seal when you have this all apart.
Very honest video, nice work, having made similar mistakes on other things myself, its hard to admit to learning the hard way
Thank you for the good information.
Great job, I have to do mine, thanks.
Ken, Thank you
The alignment tool helps to adjust the bearing if you need reorient it but it isn't intended for that job. its made to align your coupler and yoke. its a tool worth having if you engine is truly miss aligned you'll go though a gimbal bearing every season or two. Mechanics generally just change your bearing and keep the true reason for its failure to them selves..
Agreed but my failure was due to the boot clamp off taking in water.
+fiero880 oh definatly your alignment looked spot on, the alignment tool looked like it came out super easy.
A very informative video....Thanks
Dale, very welcome.
oh sorry i did see the bellows part.. guess the first time i saw it .. it looked like it had a tear in it too.. pretty informative vid for anyone that would want to try that job themselves, theres actually a tool to install the driveshaft bellows the proper way too.
Great job man! Very helpful!
Thank you
Great video.answered my question
This is amazing, Thanks a lot :-)
Thanks for the great video
Thanks for sharing your struggles
how hard was it to replace the u joint bellows? I need to do mine on my 22' bayliner
thanks for the info.... great video
very welcome and thank you for watching.
How about the pre load for pre alpha. Thank you
nice kick to get it in!
Thank you !!
There’s actually a couple o-rings on the driveshaft that fit inside the gimbal bearing. Sometimes it takes a bump or two to get the shaft through the bearing. Not uncommon to have to “persuade” it in that final little bit.
You are my hero. Amigo 5 second my bearing is all gone. Gracias
Were can I buy the aligment tool from?
I was told to use toothpaste for the O Ring, it has higher tack besides grease over time will break down the neoprene.
Tooth paste is an abrasive , aluminium oxide, very fine, but still an abrasive. Neoprene has very low reactance to water and petroleum products so normal marine and car grease should have almost no effect on the O ring.
Kenn use bellows adhesive
Or use OMC Type M sealant, which is equivalent to High Tack sealant. A thin film, and time to dry will do ya.
The gimbal bearing is essentially a spherical bearing. I’ve done them without the alignment tool, but the tool does help when reinstalling the drive.
Use a light sealer like RTV or weatherstrip adhesive
tyvm for the video/info..
Thank you for this video as it’s been a huge help. I recently removed my outdrive and see that I have a bit of milky oil in there. What would you say could be the issue there?
hi.love your videos, i didn't see you put grease on the outdrive shaft.
I love that final kick to the lower unit to seat it fully! Hilarious, was not expecting that. LOL
I know right!!! I was pissed at that point !!! Thank you !!
fiero880
Mercruiser Outdrive Final Installation Tool #10
I love your video!! Very well explained and helpful. i have a question for you please. Does the rubber seal inside the gimbel housing next to the u joint bellows retaining ring just slide in up next to the retaining ring? Does it need to be glued?
Not sure. I did not glue mine in when I replaced it because it comes with the gasket set. But I do remember having some fun trying to get everything in.
Thanks Fiero880
I thought your video was good quality, very informative and I like your
Honesty!
anytime and thank you
Well done dude
Timeless, thanks
how often should the bellow in the outdrive be replaced?
fierro880....I need some expert advice. Ever since I have gone to thru hull exhaust in 2000 which comes out the side port, by the way my boat is a `91 Stingray 658zpx with a 350 Mercruiser Alpha One drive. The exhaust bellows hasn't lasted long and after replacing one last year it has already ruptured. I am thinking that since the warm exhaust water does not run thru the exhaust bellows anymore that it gets hard and brittle real fast. Now I am having problems installing a new bellows. So does one end always have to be connected to the transom side first? Right now it is connected to the drive side after I tried the transom side first. It would have to be pushed on some way or I have to take it off and connect on the transom side again and try using the zip tie method seen on a youtube video. Another question is, can you go without an exhaust bellows and just cap it on the transom pipe and if so, does the drive side need capping too? What are your suggestions and materials for capping the bellows pipe connections? Thank You sir!
hope you lined up the bearing with the grease zerk on the gimbal
New bearings are usually permalube, and not greaseable.
Thanks for sharing
I'm shopping for a similar boat, I may have to make this same repair. Many are advertised as 'needing work'.
necessity is the mother of invention
Probably a stupid question but how did u get the shift cable off?
Nice video... how did you align your bearing back to normal.. did you adjust the motor mounts?? or how did you get that alignment to to go all the way like is should thanks
The alignment bar slides through the barring and into the engine making making it a straight shot.
Nice video! 🤩👌
Use bellows adhesive behind your water inlet o ring. It holds it in place.
Love the kick
Great video, thanks!
You bet!
Great video......
Great video. I wish to were local to me about now. San bernardino ca.
Two words... Thank you...
So what was causing the water to drip into the inside of the boat? Im having the same issue, and currently trying to track down parts. Just looking to make darn sure I fix the problem!
Jeff - My opinion is the previous owner had stored the drive in the up position and it caused the bellows to come off partially on the one end - it pulled the clamp partially off too. I believe the water was getting in through that small opening. He fixed that by loosing the clamp, re-positioning it and reapplying the bellows adhesive. If you re-watch the video it shows the bellows where it was partially pulled off. The video does not show him actually fixing it.
where's the bellows repair? we typically replace those... there's no repairing a bellows.. so what did you do?
The Thule says it doesn’t work works just fine for pulling gimbal bearing then replacing gimbal bearings for over 10 years and that’s the tool are use got to make sure that you have O-rings put on the puller
How do you know when to replace these parts ? I've got about 175 hours on a 05 195 4.3 mer alpha one
Thanks
Inspect Bellow's for rips, tears, etc when the boat is out of the water and then just inspect them every season at beginning and end and when you see some parts of the Bellow's looking like they're ready to go replace them. The gimbal bearing I think is based on hours and use but when it actually goes bad you will hear the difference in the rear end of the boat
@@jkokenos sold the boat, good to know tho. Thanks
Thanks, I think I am about to feel your pain! Question..When I tilted my drive up last night while cruising into dock I noticed a lot of vibration and shaking, When tilted back down ran smooth? Does this sound like gimbal? Im thinking u joint? anyone have experience with this issue? and if so will I have to pull drive off for u joint?Thanks for sharing your experience with the world. Harry
Could be either or, or both. When you remove your drive you will easily be able to inspect the bearing and u joint. Sounds like a gimbal bearing.
Why does the outdrive look so light when you're installing it?
Cause he went into beast mode
Hi I have 1988 sea Ray it 5.7 mercruiser and I did tack off lower unit run part off do I need in gear to get back on so I can go in reverse Cox it not go in reverse thank Richmond lynch
Mate, great video. Has given me the confidence to attack mine. However, I am from Australia and all those tools are super expensive. Is there any chance that you could give the specifications of the alignment tool. Like OD and length of the two sizes and minimum length so I can machine one up. Someone told me it could be easier to do if you remove the gearbox, makes it not so heavy to handle and therefore easier to manipulate on the install.
much appreciated
Need some help here... I've done a engine swap and now put in a 2.5l diesel turbo.. on my first dry run I kept the engine on for about 4 mins.. and then check for hot spots ... I realised that the shaft was quite hot.. I realised that I had put the shaft forcebly inside with a lot of kicks..as the alignment was not fully accurate I believe... How can I realign the engine without removing the drive? Else it will be back to square 1. Plz advise....
Remove the drive and get an alignment tool, adjust motor mounts as needled
Thanks
Sounded like your bearing didn't have grease in it. Has a grease nipple and channel that the grease runs to the bearing. They run out of grease pretty quick