I've been working on a video of myself doing no-hands belaying for three years now. I'm now on my 23rd partner, and hope to complete this sometime in my lifetime. Not so much my partners lifetimes though.
Great too see someone just doing something they genuinely get pleasure from no matter how it might be perceived. After all he has done for climbing. The smile at the top said it all. Pure joy.
Johnny Dawes, you´re incredible! I think I see your point...thanks for keeping climbing as it was many years gone: a game of the body mind and soul, close to nature enviroments, far from egos, sponsorships and narcisisticmirror-cameras... chapeau!
Johny Dawes is a revolutionary thinker. It is people like him who break boundaries, push the limits, think outside the box. It is people like him, people so absurd that most dismiss him and thus end up be truly the small minded ones. I remember when bouldering was almost considered as silly as walking up a route - you can not deny it would indeed be a great way to improve your footwork and thus improve your climbing overall which was and remains bouldering's main purpose. Now bouldering is a sport unto itself. You people who laugh and take the piss out of him may be the ones who people are laughing at in thirty years - it is not a completely preposterous idea - visionaries are always a tad eccentric - Johnny Dawes is a true visionary! More power to ya mate! After a couple of blunts and getting out and trying it myself, your true genius suddenly became undeniable!
I started doing this about a month ago to end my sessions on some easy slab routes in the gym. Always get these odd stares from people like it's some kind of sorcery. It really helps with your ability to balance during normal climbing and slabs. Recently did a 5B/C slab route where I could just walk up half the route no problem without having to use my hands where other climbers would be struggling to stay get up with hands. The amount of energy you can preserve by learning to really coordinate your body is crazy and it has propelled my normal climbing. That and it's just fun as hell. Just like doing one-handed climbs on relatively light routes. You get to know your body, improve your climbing and have fun at the same time.
Funny thing is, for those unaware: This isn't just some guy climbing in weird ways on a local crag. This guy is one of the greatest climbers of all time
I like this its very creative and fresh. Just one comment to make, I reckon it could be made more entertaining if you carry a full pint of ale in each hand whilst ascending a route then measure any spillages at the top. People can relate to this, im sure we've all been in that situation where you have to cross a treacherous beer garden with crumbling steps and overgrown plants etc. Anyway give it a try :)
a big fan of this video and johny D. Got always problems with stability even in comon walking. and this what johny D is showing us is a big motivation for me. Just pure footwork, stability, concentraiton. Thanks Johny!
It's rare I bother to "like" a youtube video, but this deserves it. Hope it goes toward helping get it seen by more people. I'm trying this on the slabs at the gym tonight.
there was a gym that I went to last year that had a "no hands" climb except for the top three holds. And I tried it and it was a lot of fun... showed me alot about weight transfer. Which helped me to learn how to do a particular 5.12 I was trying to do. Ever since, I look for easy climbs that I can do "no hands" climbs on.. good practice!
WOW, this has taken over my life. I live in New Zealand and the buzz this shit gives me is just ludicrous. My wife has left me but I've never been happier
Did this at a gym today because my arms were too tired but I still wanted to climb. Then went looking on the internet and was happy to find Johnny Dawes. Walk on, Johnny.
Johnny has a great philosophy, fascinating perspective on new ways to enjoy the crags and a great sense of humour! He's a lovely chap and stopped to give my nieces and nephew some encouragement when I took them climbing at Burbage. Thanks Johnny.
No sandstone near me, only quartzite granite, shale, and other smooth rocks... I won't do it bouldering, but I'll try it on a top rope! Sounds like a good challenge on lower graded slab climbs!
That thing with the sound must be something similar to kiai used in martial arts.. It centers ones energy around their Chi, which is basically the center of breathing, and control of ones movements. And one exhales sharply, and makes a noise, it compresses the chi, allows an extended movement, and thus punches or kicks through the target, as opposed to at it. The Kiai almost tricks the body into becoming more effective...the sharp inhale afterwards contracts the body to a balanced position, again almost un wittingly.. I think Dawes sort of uses this to clear himself mentally and re center himself, but he came to this conclusion through years of trial and error, and made it work for himself.. but the science is there..I've noticed rock climbers in general are intense and scream a lot, except for Honold, who ..just does 1000 finger lifts to relax after a good climb..
Hiya Wayne. I was just wondering why the video is unlisted? I really liked ur channel (and Johnny!) so it's sad to see all your great vids no longer show up. Would it be possible to get links to some of them?
+Hugh W. Atmaight Your thinking of sarcasm some thing only brits understand ... But no i don't think this a parody ..I think he likes to do this and its a hobby ... Its the UK its 50 shades of grey .....The home train spotters and paint dryers ..:D .... Dude climbing with no hands is just about as cool as it gets
Great wee film. Around 3:10 you can see some nice scabbing/grit-rash on Johnny's ankles, presumably from some no-hands slab smearing that didn't work so well!
Wayne get this to Johnny if at all possible, or Johnny if you're reading the comments: you've got a fan! People do pick up on one/ no hand climbing - see EpicTV's video on slab climbing with Talo Martin. He's taking after you :-)
+Melinda Green I've been climbing since the mid 60's and used to do this just messin around but I was a kid and thought nothing of it in Yosemite, later years others asked if I was nuts not using my hands, a very, very challenging activity and fun.
I really like what he said about just getting better than someone at something being boring, there is something cool about exploring unexplored territory. In our modern day capitalist societies we want to make money, and this results in us competing with each other in certain pursuits that have been deemed valuable in order to earn our bread. If money is sorted out, then you have an opportunity to create something new and discover new things
I ve always done that on my own since I was young I climbed with my hands and then I always tried to do it without hand It was natural for me Bc I was looking to connect with my body
Nice video, but you didn't show the part where he is free soloing( climbing with out ropes or gear) something really hard hundreds of feet up! Johnny Dawes is a crazy good climber. Check out the film "Hard Grit".
"...pointless thing to do...I really get a lot of it..." Just because something doesn't achieve a material or physical result doesn't make it pointless. If you get something mental out of what you do, in a beneficial way, then it is not pointless, in the least.
Dare I say he pretty much summed it up perfectly when he started out by saying it's pointless! I'm all for anyone doing whatever activity they so choose and if he enjoys this, then good for him. But it's about as relevant as trampoline basketball!
Fat Buddha Fitness Not sure about that, since climbing is all about body positioning and footwork first. I think it's way relevant and a very good exercise.
I'd say it LOOKS comical, but it's actually not, despite him saying it's 'pointless'. He obviously doesn't really mean it, he's just cool enough to be self-deprecating about it rather than be pretentious. But yes, I'll admit he does look like a total prat doing it :)
scubapig I cannot agree. He himself acknowledges it's nonsense. It's like saying, let's do some wrestling without using our arms, or cycling without using our legs. If you want to test your balance you can do tightrope walking but climbing without using your arms is simply pointless because you can do very little. If you like climbing then you want to climb, not skip and hop. He should do hop-scotch...
I've been working on a video of myself doing no-hands belaying for three years now. I'm now on my 23rd partner, and hope to complete this sometime in my lifetime. Not so much my partners lifetimes though.
I woke up read this and like wtf then a second later I laughed my head off
can i be your next lead climber
Fucking gold 😂
😂👍🏻
There's something so Python-esque about this. Some great quotes.
Just picture John Cleese screaming with his body against a rock with his arms flailing in the air
Kevin Griffin exactly, it looks like a Python sketch of a ridiculous sport lmao 😂
But it is!
My thoughts exactly. That's what makes it brilliant.
Not one leg day was ever skipped by this man
Great too see someone just doing something they genuinely get pleasure from no matter how it might be perceived. After all he has done for climbing. The smile at the top said it all. Pure joy.
The rock has a dance form embedded in it- beautifully poetic
"spit out the wobbles"
Johnny Dawes, you´re incredible! I think I see your point...thanks for keeping climbing as it was many years gone: a game of the body mind and soul, close to nature enviroments, far from egos, sponsorships and narcisisticmirror-cameras...
chapeau!
What a guy. Thank you Johnny for being.
Johny Dawes is a revolutionary thinker. It is people like him who break boundaries, push the limits, think outside the box. It is people like him, people so absurd that most dismiss him and thus end up be truly the small minded ones. I remember when bouldering was almost considered as silly as walking up a route - you can not deny it would indeed be a great way to improve your footwork and thus improve your climbing overall which was and remains bouldering's main purpose. Now bouldering is a sport unto itself. You people who laugh and take the piss out of him may be the ones who people are laughing at in thirty years - it is not a completely preposterous idea - visionaries are always a tad eccentric - Johnny Dawes is a true visionary! More power to ya mate! After a couple of blunts and getting out and trying it myself, your true genius suddenly became undeniable!
I started doing this about a month ago to end my sessions on some easy slab routes in the gym. Always get these odd stares from people like it's some kind of sorcery. It really helps with your ability to balance during normal climbing and slabs. Recently did a 5B/C slab route where I could just walk up half the route no problem without having to use my hands where other climbers would be struggling to stay get up with hands. The amount of energy you can preserve by learning to really coordinate your body is crazy and it has propelled my normal climbing.
That and it's just fun as hell. Just like doing one-handed climbs on relatively light routes. You get to know your body, improve your climbing and have fun at the same time.
Funny thing is, for those unaware: This isn't just some guy climbing in weird ways on a local crag. This guy is one of the greatest climbers of all time
"and if it´s a cold day, you can wear gloves as well."
I'M SOLD!
:-) yes...no gloves ? put your hands in your pockets..
I like this its very creative and fresh. Just one comment to make, I reckon it could be made more entertaining if you carry a full pint of ale in each hand whilst ascending a route then measure any spillages at the top.
People can relate to this, im sure we've all been in that situation where you have to cross a treacherous beer garden with crumbling steps and overgrown plants etc.
Anyway give it a try :)
Genius!
Teacher: what do you want to become when you grow up Johnny?
Johnny: a goat
The goat....
This is the best video I've seen in a while.
a big fan of this video and johny D. Got always problems with stability even in comon walking. and this what johny D is showing us is a big motivation for me. Just pure footwork, stability, concentraiton. Thanks Johny!
Amazing, and quiteinspiring! Another Dawes 2-finger salute to the commerce machine! Hats off.
It's rare I bother to "like" a youtube video, but this deserves it. Hope it goes toward helping get it seen by more people. I'm trying this on the slabs at the gym tonight.
If you didn't know who Johnny Dawes is, you might think this is a joke.
"spectacular walks up peak district grit stone" lmao
great title for a guide book
I am so pleased to find that you are still such an inspiration all these years since I left Llanberis. Well Done Johnny!
This is so crazy and poetic, it’s brilliant.
This is the best climbing video i have seen
there was a gym that I went to last year that had a "no hands" climb except for the top three holds. And I tried it and it was a lot of fun... showed me alot about weight transfer. Which helped me to learn how to do a particular 5.12 I was trying to do. Ever since, I look for easy climbs that I can do "no hands" climbs on.. good practice!
I love this guy. So witty and dry and innovative.
le genre de type que je n'imaginais pas un jour devenir vieux... il est toujours un modèle pour moi... RESPECT !
WOW, this has taken over my life. I live in New Zealand and the buzz this shit gives me is just ludicrous. My wife has left me but I've never been happier
Antonin Oazar Lol!
This gets even funnier if you read it with a NZ accent. 'Ludicrous', hahahaha.
6:18 shoulder dab. how do you sleep at night johnny? i love everything about this video
Life lessons from a man who knows just the right sound to get things done, brilliant.
Last time I saw Johnny was in Sheffield in the late eighties, we have changed in the same way, heavier and bald spot. Nice video
That smile at the end is everything!
Did this at a gym today because my arms were too tired but I still wanted to climb. Then went looking on the internet and was happy to find Johnny Dawes. Walk on, Johnny.
Johnny has a great philosophy, fascinating perspective on new ways to enjoy the crags and a great sense of humour! He's a lovely chap and stopped to give my nieces and nephew some encouragement when I took them climbing at Burbage. Thanks Johnny.
I think that will improve your general climbing skills massively ! Many people tend to climb mostly with their arms ! legs are really important !
No sandstone near me, only quartzite granite, shale, and other smooth rocks... I won't do it bouldering, but I'll try it on a top rope! Sounds like a good challenge on lower graded slab climbs!
That thing with the sound must be something similar to kiai used in martial arts.. It centers ones energy around their Chi, which is basically the center of breathing, and control of ones movements.
And one exhales sharply, and makes a noise, it compresses the chi, allows an extended movement, and thus punches or kicks through the target, as opposed to at it. The Kiai almost tricks the body into becoming more effective...the sharp inhale afterwards contracts the body to a balanced position, again almost un wittingly..
I think Dawes sort of uses this to clear himself mentally and re center himself, but he came to this conclusion through years of trial and error, and made it work for himself.. but the science is there..I've noticed rock climbers in general are intense and scream a lot, except for Honold, who ..just does 1000 finger lifts to relax after a good climb..
To those who don't understand, check out his grin at the end. If you still don't understand, I pity you.
I just saw a 50 year old dude with a belly climb a vertical wall with no hands.
I guess there's no point in me doing anything with my life. lol
Do you believe the crazy bits in the kung fu movies now, lol
Theres rumours he can do it without using his feet either.
Not vertical, but close.
Look up some earlier video's of this guy in the 80's, Johnny Dawes the quarryman fucking legend.
This video shoud have more views. Excelent.
As a beginner, I find no handed climbing on easier slabs to be amazing for improving technique.
Interesting for sure and an exercise every climber should experience and practice.
Dawes is a fuckin legend man. Great explorations on movement. Thats whats it all about!
What a creative fellow
Competition is boring - it's all about the creativity - love it!
I thought this was going to be climbing training, but this guy just does it for the shits haha! love it!
Jacob B It’s training too
Great stuff!
This is my favorite climbing movie
Good job pal I really enjoyed watching you climb
Indisputable GOAT of all time.
Fantastic Thank you Johnny
Hiya Wayne. I was just wondering why the video is unlisted? I really liked ur channel (and Johnny!) so it's sad to see all your great vids no longer show up. Would it be possible to get links to some of them?
"You don't have to Nureyev around like an ass" - brilliant!
It looks and sounds like a crazy idea, but it must do wonders for your balance and foot placement
Is this British humor? I can never tell.
+Hugh W. Atmaight Your thinking of sarcasm some thing only brits understand ...
But no i don't think this a parody ..I think he likes to do this and its a hobby ...
Its the UK its 50 shades of grey .....The home train spotters and paint dryers ..:D ....
Dude climbing with no hands is just about as cool as it gets
Nope - quite serious. He's one of the most talented climbers the UK has ever seen
Yes it is haha
excellent sir...salute.
That was beautiful.
"Spit out the wobbles" I died...
Super cool technique!
the david brent of big wall climbing. love it
Did someone ask who this guy us. Look up Indian Face - only a hand full of repeats in the last 20 years! No climber like him before or since.
Reminds me of freestyle walking, a little something we used to do when i was a kid!
Great wee film. Around 3:10 you can see some nice scabbing/grit-rash on Johnny's ankles, presumably from some no-hands slab smearing that didn't work so well!
such a good video. great opening statement haha!
+Wayne Sharrocks yeah, weather is always a pain. Find yourself in london let us know, ill take you round.
Great Skill you are a Master
fantastic
That's actually fucking amazing, incredible sense of balance
“It makes me fall in love with the crags again” camera shows Johnny shouting in frustration at the crags.
I thought this had to be an SNL parody. This guy is hilarious. Dying to stay in the spot light.
Officially want to try this now. Unfortunately there are no good slabs in my gym
rengirl94 go to a climbing centre
Awesome, Johnny!!
Can we use shoulders? Elbows? I will try this for sure... great exercise!
Come on Johnny. You're a climbing hero and super star legend. But really mate!!!!!
Wayne get this to Johnny if at all possible, or Johnny if you're reading the comments: you've got a fan! People do pick up on one/ no hand climbing - see EpicTV's video on slab climbing with Talo Martin. He's taking after you :-)
brilliant, his leg strength and balance must be beyond normal. it`s liking watching a human try to imitate a mountain goat.
I've fooled around with this and found it rather fun and challenging. Try it.
+Melinda Green I've been climbing since the mid 60's and used to do this just messin around but I was a kid and thought nothing of it in Yosemite, later years others asked if I was nuts not using my hands, a very, very challenging activity and fun.
Great! :)
My hands are not sweating :)
This guy has it all figured out.
Awesome!!
I really like what he said about just getting better than someone at something being boring, there is something cool about exploring unexplored territory. In our modern day capitalist societies we want to make money, and this results in us competing with each other in certain pursuits that have been deemed valuable in order to earn our bread. If money is sorted out, then you have an opportunity to create something new and discover new things
When are you expected to see the next video with title "Leading with no hands?"
pitot1988 At first he has to learn how to perform no-hands clip :)
Leo Falconson With his mouth ;-)
pitot1988 time to invent to toe cam
too funny, lmao
"That's a fookin bore I think"-Legend
Most people would struggle to do this with hands
very nice.
Look mom, no handed.
Naff is the word! Glad Mr Dawes is enjoying it, though.
I ve always done that on my own since I was young
I climbed with my hands and then I always tried to do it without hand
It was natural for me
Bc I was looking to connect with my body
Nice video, but you didn't show the part where he is free soloing( climbing with out ropes or gear) something really hard hundreds of feet up! Johnny Dawes is a crazy good climber. Check out the film "Hard Grit".
2:40 “They’re the ones that make it slabby” 😂
No handed climbing. Now that is quite a feat. Not too many people can say that they walked up a wall. ;)
Its a great training. Overusing the upper body strength is a problem on beginner climbers like me.
That is pretty cool. Every time when you don't think something can be climbed... And yeah, training? Wear mittens.
maybe that's what i should be doing so i can still play a gig after climbing.
"...pointless thing to do...I really get a lot of it..." Just because something doesn't achieve a material or physical result doesn't make it pointless. If you get something mental out of what you do, in a beneficial way, then it is not pointless, in the least.
It's Me Also it’s good for training
This is like watching Barny the Dinosaur do the twist.
can someone help me with what the best friction/slab shoes are?
That depends,.on you. Ive climbed in ammo boots before on the braille trail. Not advised.
I have the same question
i love you man
Debería hacer los high boulder sin cuerda.
But can he do it in 0.5 A presses?
In all seriousness though, this is cool.
Is he still alive?
yes still alive ... smiles. I have met him serving pizza in Sheffield but also coaching at a wall
NURSE, NURSE HE'S OUTTA BED AGAIN!!!!
Dare I say he pretty much summed it up perfectly when he started out by saying it's pointless! I'm all for anyone doing whatever activity they so choose and if he enjoys this, then good for him. But it's about as relevant as trampoline basketball!
Fat Buddha Fitness Not sure about that, since climbing is all about body positioning and footwork first. I think it's way relevant and a very good exercise.
scubapig That's great and good luck to you if you do it, but you're not going to change my mind. This was comical, and I enjoyed it for that.
I'd say it LOOKS comical, but it's actually not, despite him saying it's 'pointless'. He obviously doesn't really mean it, he's just cool enough to be self-deprecating about it rather than be pretentious. But yes, I'll admit he does look like a total prat doing it :)
scubapig I cannot agree. He himself acknowledges it's nonsense. It's like saying, let's do some wrestling without using our arms, or cycling without using our legs. If you want to test your balance you can do tightrope walking but climbing without using your arms is simply pointless because you can do very little. If you like climbing then you want to climb, not skip and hop. He should do hop-scotch...
+Fat Buddha Fitness Yeah, it's about as pointless as playing soccer without using your hands.