After watching modern elite climbers for years this history lesson is simply amazing... wool sweater, red socks, a rope tied around a sizable belly... the stuff of legends.
Dude theres a German movie Called North Face It depicts mountain climbing in the 30's Its actually a really good movie I highly recommend you give it a chance even tho its german speaking(i dont even speak german) but those gerries really know to make a good movie
@@another2133 Yeah, well, there's a reason the climbers from that time had an extremely high mortality rate. If you look it up, most of these guys' climbing partners and friends died in the 1960s and 70s.
Don, the working class ex-plumber from Salford deserves a documentary about his life. Just reading up about him what a fucking legend. Smoked like a chimney, a total pisshead, brawler, 5ft4, beer gut, but he must have been extremely strong. God, these guy's were incredible. Just look at their equipment... or lack thereof.
My dad climbed with both Whillans and Bonnington way, way back when they were just starting out. He had to make the call of giving up his job to become a professional mountaineer, in the days when there was no money in it, or staying a regular Joe. He chose the latter. Sometimes, he wondered, what if... But don’t we all. One of his prized possessions was a postcard from Bonnington and the gang on their first Everest expedition. Memories...
Partnered Don on his last ever climb in the Dolomites in July 1985 a couple of weeks before his tragic death. We’d travelled down to Italy on our motorbikes and met up with Hugh Banner and Derek Walker from the Climbers Club. Before we met them we stopped in Lecco at a friend of Don’s and whilst there climbed on some local crags. We climbed ‘Ill Sigaro’ a detached pinnacle at grade about HVS. Don lead. The crux was 10 feet from the top. We abseiled down using the traditional style without descenders!! These events were not picked up in Jim Perrins book ‘The Villain’ assuming Don had travelled on his own, which he hadn’t! Although the book did cover the meeting at the Civetta with Hugh and Derek, nothing was really mentioned about Don’s last climb apart from a derogatory comment by one of Derek’s and Hughs party about how out of condition Don was! Ironically, even though Don was overweight and not in the best condition, was able to lead HVS route only days earlier, and a route the person making the comment would not be able to do even then!!!! God Bless Don
Great space filler information mate cheers! I had seen what must have been your comment(s) elsewhere on videos or a forum perhaps regarding that trip. Found Perrin's book a little too abrasive to be honest. We all have our flaws, but he seems oddly fixated on Don's. Anywho, he's bound to be remembered well beyond our time primarily for those great climbs. Thanks !
It was filmed in the 80s when we had decent ropes, friends etc. These two nutters decided to climb the route in the style of the FA with gym shoes and runners made from (literal) rocks.
Thought Don didn't have a prayer on that second pitch after watching Chris on it, but then he just muscles his way right up. Great stuff. What a lovely spot, too. Thanks for sharing.
What an eccentric duo. A classic, upper class English gentleman and a working class Manc from the north. Complete opposite ends of the spectrum but get on like a house on fire. This is way before my time so idk much about these two but this is absolutely captivating. Crazy to see them using pebbles on strings as cams too, how could you trust that halfway up a wall?
Bonington and Whillans ... a deep freindship and unlikely partnership. The photo of them on Don's old motorbike heading off to climb the Eiger, the young Bonington, beardless. Flinty eyed Whillans is iconic.
Authentic legends just having a day out on the hill! Despite the very different characters and social class it was 100% respect and friendship because of climbing. As for Don, look at his strong hands and the power in his shoulders. That and his sheer attitude made him one of the greats of his day.
Well Adam Ondra, Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honuald and others may be amazing climbers but theses two are the best and always will be for me a climber who started 40 years ago watching Don. RIP Don your the best.
Oh - this made me teary. As someone who started climbing in a pair of used EB Super-Grattons and body belays. Though nervous parents got me a Troll mark V harness (I still have them somewhere) and we had advanced to using "hexes" and trademarked "nuts" The purity of climbing and watching these two legends revisiting the "origins" is simply awesome.
Brilliant stuff. Don & Joe were only just being overtaken by the new generation of climbers when I started out but they were, and still are revered as legends. Even back then we were in awe of the sheer balls required to do some of their first ascents. Christ, I couldn't follow most of them a decade later. There's so many Whillans stories but my favourite is when he was climbing the Etive slabs - notorious for their lack of protection. Whillans got so far and realising he was heading for a very unpleasant, sandpapering slide, chose to turn around and RUN down the slab! What a man.
Bowline around the waist, Stone chocks, although I was able to get some machined out nuts. Don has my EB Super Grattons! Ah the good ole days. Wonder we’re still alive.
Most of my climbing was during the 1990-2005 period, and looking at this now is absolutely terrifying. These guys are total legends! The lack of gear is worrying LOL!
Happy 73 birthday to you Dave.I would have personally made a call if you were alive today. But Unfortunately you and Dawn passed away.However, The salle village people and school teachers, Students will always remember for both of you for many many years. Both of you will be always in our surroundings. And my family will always remember every those precious moments which we spent together in our village. I can see you very energetic and passionate to climb the mountain. Hope it was not that much easy to climb this mountain.Both of you will be always in our heart for forever.
Thanks for posting this. Both these guys are such legends. I first "got to know them" through their numerous biographies and autobiographies (brilliantly written) which I picked out of the school library as a boy, and which inspired me to start climbing - to see them on film is a treat!
What a great film. Very authentic and humble. Love when at 06:04 Don say "I'm just going to take my sweater off" just before he starts climbing... so calm and relaxed just enjoying the climb.
Both climbers have my absolute respect. I’ve followed a few Whiilians ( the villian) routes and have kicked, scrapped, jammed and sworn my whole way to the top. How they did it without modern pro is beyond me. Jimmy puttell had a similar style but every route seemed to have a hidden jug! The test was, where to find the bloody thing! Great footage and Thankyou for sharing.
This may make people realise the guts of adventures in centuries past . A tweed jacket like Mallory had near the top of Everest was a tad tougher than ultra gear tourist climbing
Two greats of climbing/ mountaineering. Still got my EBs and Whillans harness somewhere. Haven’t climbed since I failed on one of the “Nots” in White Ghyll in about 1980!
Such amazing wee bit of film, not a climber myself but enjoy my holidays doing via ferrata’s and now watching these two legends that’s have belly’s bigger than some of the mountain I’ve climbed it can only aspire me and hopefully others to keep on going. I also love the banter between them.
Don came out of retirement for this film. It was right around the time when I started climbing. I bought some walking boots thinking that they were the things to use. I drove 2 hours to Widdop to try them out on some boulders. I met Don briefly who was there practicing (probably for this very trip with Bonnington) on what I thought was a blank slab which Don was probably about to climb. I made some comments about how I couldn't understand how the chalk gets all the way up the wall. I didn't have a clue who he was until I later saw this episode of Lakeland Rock - I remember him wearing the same jumper and cap! What a lost opportunity.
Great to see childhood heroes in action again. I watched Chris Bonington climbing on Burbage Edge in the late 80’s filming for TV. I was too over-awed to go up and say hello in those days! Does anybody remember the Whillans Whammer? I think I also had a pink fibreglass-covered Whillans walking ice axe on an expedition to the Staunings Alps in Greenland.
Absolutely wonderful video! I learned to climb in Yosemite in the 70s. No harnesses or fancy belay gear then. Belaying with the rope around your back takes me back. Thank you for uploading.
@@johnson3392 The first job I got when I left Lucas Aerospace in the 70s. Made on machines borrowed from a friend who bought and sold old plant. He said that if we made it work we could use it. Jim Fort was his name and always grateful for his help.
I was extremely anxious all the way through; I was pulling for Whillans and thought for sure he was going to fall, especially using those old shoes, and no chalk. I was astounded and blown away at how fearless and capable they were.
Ay don. You knew what life was all about. Awesome climber. Awesome drinker and a great human being. I met sir Chris but don’t think I ever met you, apart from repeating moves on your routes. Thank you 🙏🏻
These guys are absolute lads. Also i'm pretty sure that tied rope would hurt pretty badly if one of them actually fell and dangle on it. I love the casual conversation during the climb
After watching modern elite climbers for years this history lesson is simply amazing... wool sweater, red socks, a rope tied around a sizable belly... the stuff of legends.
Dude theres a German movie Called North Face
It depicts mountain climbing in the 30's
Its actually a really good movie
I highly recommend you give it a chance even tho its german speaking(i dont even speak german) but those gerries really know to make a good movie
And they’re wearing converse lol
@@bugzyhardrada3168 might find it under name Norwand
@@chrisjokinen217 yep thats the one
Wool is still the most badness fabric there is.
Nothing quite like a sharp stone jamming the rope for security lol. Absolute balls of steel!
Yeah I agree, you'd pick the smooth ones for sure. Hard core access
@@another2133 Yeah, well, there's a reason the climbers from that time had an extremely high mortality rate. If you look it up, most of these guys' climbing partners and friends died in the 1960s and 70s.
Christ, you couldn’t make TV like this any more. This was one of the scariest and most impressive things I’ve ever seen.
Yeah everything is so "intense" nowadays, meanwhile these guys are shooting the shit on literal ledges...
@@PhilipWillsWorld Watched it after your recommendation - how did anyone survive the 70's :)
I was really surprised they were using rock chicks and hemp rope 😳 wow…even for then, this was about 83/84, not long before Whillans died
So ver6 we’ll said!
Don, the working class ex-plumber from Salford deserves a documentary about his life. Just reading up about him what a fucking legend. Smoked like a chimney, a total pisshead, brawler, 5ft4, beer gut, but he must have been extremely strong. God, these guy's were incredible. Just look at their equipment... or lack thereof.
HAHAH WHAT A BLOKE
The banter and companionship are wonderful.
My dad climbed with both Whillans and Bonnington way, way back when they were just starting out. He had to make the call of giving up his job to become a professional mountaineer, in the days when there was no money in it, or staying a regular Joe. He chose the latter. Sometimes, he wondered, what if... But don’t we all. One of his prized possessions was a postcard from Bonnington and the gang on their first Everest expedition. Memories...
That’s insane 🙏
Great story👍
You may not exist if he tried to avoid the regular Joe lifestyle.
Takes a lot of courage and will power to raise a family.
I hope he did not give up climbing altogether. It makes the heart heavy. 👍👍
They didn't even use chalk, but I had to chalk up just watching it.
😂 no chalk and no helmets whilst riding a motorcycle!
i have no idea how youtube recommended this one to me, but this is just amazing.
Don is possibly my favorite figure of climbing history. His skill, philosophy, and wit were unmatched.
That dead ass stare at 4:32 when the first runner lifts out
Oliver Hardy to camera !
@@dominicgriffiths8125 OMG I miss watching Laurel and Hardy!
Nothing makes me wanna get out and climb more than something like this.
Just listening to the banter is classic
I want a printed picture on a t-shirt of these two legends riding that motorbike
Great idea
I want one!
Ill look into it
@@HarryFlashmanVC any update?
T-shirt???
I honestly think this is the best climbing video on youtube .
That was effing mental. Major respect to that old boy, that was an effort and a half.
Love Don, have based my life on his mindset of ‘aaah be right’.
Partnered Don on his last ever climb in the Dolomites in July 1985 a couple of weeks before his tragic death. We’d travelled down to Italy on our motorbikes and met up with Hugh Banner and Derek Walker from the Climbers Club. Before we met them we stopped in Lecco at a friend of Don’s and whilst there climbed on some local crags. We climbed ‘Ill Sigaro’ a detached pinnacle at grade about HVS. Don lead. The crux was 10 feet from the top. We abseiled down using the traditional style without descenders!! These events were not picked up in Jim Perrins book ‘The Villain’
assuming Don had travelled on his own, which he hadn’t! Although the book did cover the meeting at the Civetta with Hugh and Derek, nothing was really mentioned about Don’s last climb apart from a derogatory comment by one of Derek’s and Hughs party about how out of condition Don was! Ironically, even though Don was overweight and not in the best condition, was able to lead HVS route only days earlier, and a route the person making the comment would not be able to do even then!!!!
God Bless Don
Great space filler information mate cheers! I had seen what must have been your comment(s) elsewhere on videos or a forum perhaps regarding that trip. Found Perrin's book a little too abrasive to be honest. We all have our flaws, but he seems oddly fixated on Don's. Anywho, he's bound to be remembered well beyond our time primarily for those great climbs. Thanks !
Don's lay back was electrifying.
Wow. I watch a lot of mountaineering videos but that was one of the best.
Top notch footage...just amazing given the times really! And the equipment?! What equipment! Such pure brawn! I don my hat to these Gentlemen!
It was filmed in the 80s when we had decent ropes, friends etc. These two nutters decided to climb the route in the style of the FA with gym shoes and runners made from (literal) rocks.
Thought Don didn't have a prayer on that second pitch after watching Chris on it, but then he just muscles his way right up. Great stuff. What a lovely spot, too. Thanks for sharing.
The best Rock climbing video I ve ever seen!
Glad to see Don wearing his safety cloth cap
One day climbing the Dewerstone, Central Groove and I look to my right - none other than Chris Bonnington climbing alongside me...made my day.
Central Groove is a quality climb!
these dudes were insane! just so casual about it. respect.
11:44 The age-old saying "I'll never do it again if I get off this one.", I've said it myself a time or two. lol
Amen to that! LOL. Or "what the f@$& did I get myself into".
Wow, fantastic. Such great quality film work for the time
What an eccentric duo.
A classic, upper class English gentleman and a working class Manc from the north. Complete opposite ends of the spectrum but get on like a house on fire.
This is way before my time so idk much about these two but this is absolutely captivating.
Crazy to see them using pebbles on strings as cams too, how could you trust that halfway up a wall?
Bonington and Whillans ... a deep freindship and unlikely partnership. The photo of them on Don's old motorbike heading off to climb the Eiger, the young Bonington, beardless. Flinty eyed Whillans is iconic.
Authentic legends just having a day out on the hill! Despite the very different characters and social class it was 100% respect and friendship because of climbing. As for Don, look at his strong hands and the power in his shoulders. That and his sheer attitude made him one of the greats of his day.
Well Adam Ondra, Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honuald and others may be amazing climbers but theses two are the best and always will be for me a climber who started 40 years ago watching Don. RIP Don your the best.
That group of English climbers from the late 60s and 70s were and are the last of a breed.
Oh - this made me teary. As someone who started climbing in a pair of used EB Super-Grattons and body belays. Though nervous parents got me a Troll mark V harness (I still have them somewhere) and we had advanced to using "hexes" and trademarked "nuts"
The purity of climbing and watching these two legends revisiting the "origins" is simply awesome.
Brilliant stuff. Don & Joe were only just being overtaken by the new generation of climbers when I started out but they were, and still are revered as legends. Even back then we were in awe of the sheer balls required to do some of their first ascents. Christ, I couldn't follow most of them a decade later.
There's so many Whillans stories but my favourite is when he was climbing the Etive slabs - notorious for their lack of protection. Whillans got so far and realising he was heading for a very unpleasant, sandpapering slide, chose to turn around and RUN down the slab! What a man.
Fabulous archive footage, this. What a find.
Bowline around the waist, Stone chocks, although I was able to get some machined out nuts. Don has my EB Super Grattons! Ah the good ole days. Wonder we’re still alive.
I can’t help but love these guys :D
Brought back many memories, ropes, belay techniques, knotted waist length.
Brilliant, just brilliant!
Fantastic and loads of respect to both of you guys. Magic climbing with the original means of keeping yourselves safe and equipment.
Now reading The Everest Boys by Clint Willis. Sir Chris and Don are coming to life! Wonderfull story on a wonderful media YT.
Most of my climbing was during the 1990-2005 period, and looking at this now is absolutely terrifying. These guys are total legends! The lack of gear is worrying LOL!
"I shouldn't really be here ya know". Nice place though. brought my youth back watching this. Cheers for the opportunity to see these boys play.
Loved watching this - what a great bit of climbing history. Thanks for sharing this. Simon.
Happy 73 birthday to you Dave.I would have personally made a call if you were alive today. But Unfortunately you and Dawn passed away.However, The salle village people and school teachers, Students will always remember for both of you for many many years. Both of you will be always in our surroundings. And my family will always remember every those precious moments which we spent together in our village. I can see you very energetic and passionate to climb the mountain. Hope it was not that much easy to climb this mountain.Both of you will be always in our heart for forever.
So dangerous, so peaceful, unbelievable! THX
I used to belay like that, and used goldline rope for leading. I never used rocks for chocks, but did sling stuff.
“Climbing like a ruptured duck” 😂😂😂
"like an aging, bleeding ballerina" ! can't decide if I liked the chatter more or the climbing.
Thanks for posting this. Both these guys are such legends. I first "got to know them" through their numerous biographies and autobiographies (brilliantly written) which I picked out of the school library as a boy, and which inspired me to start climbing - to see them on film is a treat!
Cheers! I've got an entire wall of said books and they are my pride and joy.
what a legends. haha it reminds me when I took up climbing again after a 15 years break.
Máximum respect for this legends❤
What a great film. Very authentic and humble. Love when at 06:04 Don say "I'm just going to take my sweater off" just before he starts climbing... so calm and relaxed just enjoying the climb.
Absolutely legendary! These guys were just incredible pioneers in the sport! Thanks for posting.
This is gold...
Thanks for posting
Both climbers have my absolute respect. I’ve followed a few Whiilians ( the villian) routes and have kicked, scrapped, jammed and sworn my whole way to the top. How they did it without modern pro is beyond me. Jimmy puttell had a similar style but every route seemed to have a hidden jug! The test was, where to find the bloody thing! Great footage and Thankyou for sharing.
I couldn't agree more... I've had some real scary moments on some of Dons and Joe's routes in the 90s.. it's like a distance memory now....
Absolute Legends
Two dear friends climbing together, what an awesome video! I loved watching them ride together on the motorcycle to get there. No pretense here.
Totally amazing film of 2 absolute stars... climbing in days.
" Best phone rescue services...."
Those guys are not grunting and groaning because of their age,...
but because of the huge balls of steel that they're dragging up with them!!!
What a lovely film. Really captures the essence of crag climbing here in the UK.
amazing! i get so inspired by old pictures and clips from those chaps climbing at that time, with that "gear"
They don't like that anymore ...
Excellent mountaineering
Christ I could barely pick up me mouse to like the video my hands were sweating so much
Fantastic camera work.
Great climb.
Took me back to being a kid.
This may make people realise the guts of adventures in centuries past .
A tweed jacket like Mallory had near the top of Everest was a tad tougher than ultra gear tourist climbing
At my best, I couldn't match Don at this stage.
Chris is a god! Have read his many exploits. Amazing!
Two greats of climbing/ mountaineering. Still got my EBs and Whillans harness somewhere. Haven’t climbed since I failed on one of the “Nots” in White Ghyll in about 1980!
...read so much about these two - awesome to see and hear them - thanks for posting :-)
Magnificent I really enjoyed this what a team I could listen to them all day God bless you gentleman and God speed brave Sons Amen 💫✝️✨
Incredible. These guys are legends. Makes me ashamed of every time I worried about stepping out above a shaky nut or cam placement.
Such amazing wee bit of film, not a climber myself but enjoy my holidays doing via ferrata’s and now watching these two legends that’s have belly’s bigger than some of the mountain I’ve climbed it can only aspire me and hopefully others to keep on going. I also love the banter between them.
High respect for this effort. This really takes mental strength to go in this physical condition with that equipment and style. :)
Fantastic vid......two legends
Come on Don..dont be sick yet...you can do it...!!! Were all behind you..😁😁😁😁
Don came out of retirement for this film. It was right around the time when I started climbing. I bought some walking boots thinking that they were the things to use. I drove 2 hours to Widdop to try them out on some boulders. I met Don briefly who was there practicing (probably for this very trip with Bonnington) on what I thought was a blank slab which Don was probably about to climb. I made some comments about how I couldn't understand how the chalk gets all the way up the wall. I didn't have a clue who he was until I later saw this episode of Lakeland Rock - I remember him wearing the same jumper and cap! What a lost opportunity.
Bllx
@@garymitchell5899 I guess you have to be over 60 to tell a story like that so I have to pretend I'm not up on Leet speak.
Great to see childhood heroes in action again. I watched Chris Bonington climbing on Burbage Edge in the late 80’s filming for TV. I was too over-awed to go up and say hello in those days!
Does anybody remember the Whillans Whammer? I think I also had a pink fibreglass-covered Whillans walking ice axe on an expedition to the Staunings Alps in Greenland.
Thanks for another beautiful video!
Cheers!
Two great men.
Oh lordy - I'm old enough to have used all that gear back in the '60s. Before the modern crowds hit the hills. Great days...
Met Chris a few months back he is a absolute gentleman happy to pose for photos sign autographs and chat no fancy equipment here first class
I met Don Whillans a few times when he used to show up at the Shoulder of Mutton pub near Hebden Bridge. He was a total asshole.
Lol
*Opposites Attract*
great video, thaks to share!!
Absolutely wonderful video! I learned to climb in Yosemite in the 70s. No harnesses or fancy belay gear then. Belaying with the rope around your back takes me back. Thank you for uploading.
I used to make the "Whillans Whammer" he invented in the 70s used on the south face of Annapurna . They all used our pub at Rawtenstall in those days.
I've been trying to get hold of a whammer for years. Loved my Whillans sac and harness but now long gone.
@@johnson3392 The first job I got when I left Lucas Aerospace in the 70s. Made on machines borrowed from a friend who bought and sold old plant. He said that if we made it work we could use it. Jim Fort was his name and always grateful for his help.
Best known as the "dangle and whack twins" from all the pins they placed on incredible first ascents. Our heroes!
4:33 Safety falls out
6:13 You'll of lost a few pounds by the time you get up here Don!
Don: I've already lost a bit of faith in your chock stoning!
Don !!!
@@dominicgriffiths8125 Dom!!!! Thank you =] Can't believe he still climbed it!
I was extremely anxious all the way through; I was pulling for Whillans and thought for sure he was going to fall, especially using those old shoes, and no chalk. I was astounded and blown away at how fearless and capable they were.
Respect to these Legends - Raw Courage & real humour ✨☀️✨❤️✨☀️✨❤️✨☀️✨
Love Chris's laugh...this is incredible...not mant words in stil holding my breathe..I no hell get up but wow.....massive respect to you Don
Wow! I, I, I....speechless.....
My absolute respect also for the camera men ...
At the time.. the usual cameraman for such was climbing legend Hamish McInnes, who passed away quite recently. A legend of Scottish climbing
Absolutely superb. Legendary!
13:45 Don: "I think I'm gonna be sick" 😁😁😁
14:57 - I wish I could still do a layback like that - what a legend.
The style they used in repeated the route was amazing, and added to the pucker factor.
No ID Reculse full pucker
Ay don. You knew what life was all about. Awesome climber. Awesome drinker and a great human being. I met sir Chris but don’t think I ever met you, apart from repeating moves on your routes. Thank you 🙏🏻
These comments alone are just great. People who met them, used their gear, climbed their routes, living history
15:43 ruptured duck...brilliant!!
This was epic!
this is just too good to be true. that rope looks like it'd saw through your hand, without falling on it! No helmet. No goggles. Savage
What a fantastic effort by two legends..such a hard hardcore climbers in their days..lot to admire 👏
These guys are absolute lads. Also i'm pretty sure that tied rope would hurt pretty badly if one of them actually fell and dangle on it. I love the casual conversation during the climb