Thanks for your always useful vids. Had same issue when I bought truck used. Changed plugs, coils and added catch can. Problem resolved for about 20k miles but just came back. I will now change out plugs with .028 gapped . Also drilled a 1/16" weep hole on bottom of intercooler. There was oil & water contamination in there alright. Boost loss seems minimal with such a small hole. Sounds better then those stupid blocks. Thanks again for taking time out to inform folks.
Hi. I’m a fleet technician for the utility company. Working on 2014 f150 with 3.5 and 51535 miles. Looked up the video for misfire for 2014 f150 with 3.5. Engineering code was newest version. Pulled plugs and found multiple plugs with carbon tracking and #3 plug cracked. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Ordering updated plugs and boots.
Boosted cars need plugs changed often. I do mine once a year... small price to pay! Dunno why people get so upset over this, its a high strung motor its not gonna run for 200k miles without a problem.
Thanks for the informative video. I ran into this last summer after a 2000 mile road trip. I was at about 41,000 miles and thought it was bad fuel. Only misfired under WOT on the 2-3, and 3-4 shift. Normal driving it ran perfect, and no misfires. At 45,000 I decided to do the plugs (was going to do them at 50,000 anyways) and found they were wasted. I didn't have any that were cracked, but the gaps were all over .042". Gapped them at .030" and the engine runs perfect. Just turned 50,000 last week and not a hint of a misfire. Never had the CAC issue either. I have had the truck since July 2011 (bought it new) and only had on warranty repair of a leaking left turbo oil line that was not torqued correctly. The major issue I have had is the air filters plugging and the mileage will tank. I have been doing the air filter every 10,000 miles and that fixed that problem. Now I will be doing the plugs at 25k intervals just to avoid issues. For $5 a plug and 30 minutes to change it is easy maintenance. I did start running the Napa gold air filter at the last service as it is about twice the surface area of the factory one. I do run 93 octane fuel all the time, and run Mobil one 5w30 synthetic oil at 5k change intervals.
Thanks for this video, I bought my 3.5 F-150 Platinum used about a year ago and was starting to suffer from this misfire. 6 Motorcraft plugs later and it's running like a champ. You have gained a new subscriber.
The spark plug info really saved me. Had a miss fire while towing and uses my code reader to see I had #6 miss fire. Pulled the plug and saw the carbon tracking. New plugs and on the road again. You always have great info up here. Thanks
I bought a 2013 f150 eco boost with 126k miles in it about 5 months ago. I’m having this issue my self. I changed spark plugs (which had everything the video was saying) I just drilled the hole today and I had oil only dripping out while idling and spraying out when I gas it. I let it drain out completely and have no oil dripping now. I put in a catch can a few weeks ago and I didn’t check it till today and it was completely full. So with that it was sucking the oil through because it was to high (my fault). I highly recommend getting a catch can. I will be checking it biweekly now. I am also adding that plastic piece and reflashing it tomorrow at a Ford dealer. I did an oil change and I only drained 2.5L😫. She is running beautifully now. No lag at all but I will be further investigating where this oil is going. Thank you baby Jesus for TH-camrs and these comments.
I'm running a 2013 3.5L EcoBoost in an FX4 and it's absolutely awesome. I'm only @ 18k miles but it has been a fun 18k. Looking forward to pulling my camping trailer around all summer long.
I have owned two 2nd gen 3.5 ecoboost 2017 and 2019. I also owned a 2014 5L. I put alot of kms on my trucks 60-75 per year. The ecoboost is outstanding IMO. I've never had a single issue with the ones I've owned.
FordTechMakuloco My wife’s 2010 Lincoln MKT AWD 3.5 ecoboost with 85K began surging and and misfiring several months ago. The local Ford dealer said a “tune-up” was needed. The spark plugs were replaced and a coil boot was replaced as it was “dry rotted”. Car ran a little better, but the surging and misfiring continued. When returned to the dealer it took several hours of “technical research” to determine the problem. The ECM was reflashed. The misfire was basically cured, but the surging continued and the combined mileage dropped to 12.7 MPG. Car returned for the third time. After a day and a half the technician “could not replicate the surging”. The service writer suggested that the problem “might be the way my wife drove”. I told him we drove very differently and the problem was the same for both of us. I said I would come down and take the technician for a drive if he couldn’t replicate the problem. The technician remarkably was able to replicate the problem, but couldn’t “pull any codes”. We told them to keep the car until they figured it out. Any ideas about curing the surging?
Had this exact problem. Changed plugs. Still misfire into limp mode. Drilled 1/16th weep hole and it’s like new!!! Up hills and highway not one issue. Drained a good amount of black fluid. Thanks for the vids.
Great video! Thank you for all you are doing for us Ford owners. Question: what is the proper torque value for the spark plugs? I am looking at doing this real soon as my 2011 Ecoboost FX4 is at 58,000 miles. Also, how to flush the Ecoboost coolant would be nice, and a tutorial on changing the trans filter would be nice as well. You are truly doing all of us a real favor unlocking the mysteries of these Ford cars and trucks!
I really like your videos and your honesty, having just bought a 2012 ecoboost i been trying to learn about fixing and tricks before hand, right before i found your video i watched one that another guy posted about this same problem, he showed drilling a 3/32 hole on the backside bottom of the cooler through the housing and they claim its been a total fix for the customer, would you look into that and let us know if that is something that would be a smart thing to do..
Thanks...Misfire on a 2014 F150 Ecoboost 3.5L 72k miles. ...I did just that...pulled the plug and looked just like that one. Replaced the plug and the ignition. The gap on the old plug was large as you described. I still need to test the old coil. If the old one is still good...then I have an emergency spare on hand. Im going to change all the plugs soon. Great vids! thx!
I plan on replacing my plugs every 50k anyway. Thankfully "knock on wood" haven't had misfire issues at all. It does idle a little shaky but that's just the nature of the beast. Great video man.
I wish they would invest in diesel engine technology and put it in the trucks. Better fuel economy, more torque, more durable... Better than putting more and more pressure in engine to get more power out of small displacement and put all components ender great strain so they fail. BMW is doing the same and very unreliable.
They were going to do that but opted for the ecoboost instead, it has all the great features of a diesel (except the diesel would probably have a bit better fuel economy) but the thing is diesel here is 30-40 cents more a gallon, diesel engine would be an expensive option on a build, the diesel would be heavier, more problems (glow plugs fuel gelling urera injection needed etc) with ecoboost none of that is needed and it has lots of horse power, gobs of torque and more importantly a flat torque curve with max torque starting as low as 2k rpm which is the same as diesels.
FordTechMakuloco I agree, you get a lot of performance and better fuel economy. I'm wondering if they can find a way to make the engine components more reliable with all the pressure. For example, the BMW engines face a similar problem with fuel injectors failing due to high pressure. I can't wait to see the new 2.7 L ecoboost. I'm hoping they worked out some of the problems, that would be fantastic!
And they told me I was crazy to put a grill in my bumper over that hole... Good info for people who haven't heard on the issues of the F150 eco. No problems on my 2012 haven't even had the TSB's done.
Experienced this issue twice, most recently two weeks ago, with my '12 F150. Dealer did nothing last year. In with dealer now, will be interesting to see what they do. Barely have 25,000 miles on it. This video really helps to demystify possible issue, thanks a million for posting it.
I would. The eco boost is a great engine when it's running well but I don't trust mine anymore. I hit 100K miles and it went to shit. $3K for timing chain. Starting to replace coils, I've done the plugs 4 times now. I've even drilled the hole in the CAC and it still has misfires!
Victor Perez Take off the throttle body and check for oil in intake manifold. That was the main cause for my misfires. I drilled an additional hole in my CAC as well.
Victor Perez I think it will help prevent the future accumulation of oil in the CAC that runs up to the intake manifold and down into the cylinders. I think that is the cause of the misfires.
I find that intercooler blocker hillarious. :) I'm a tech with BMW, and I'm always amused by fixes like this. Trust me, I've seen my fair share. Thanks for the info! Always good to learn. I myself drive an '11 F150.
I just bought a 2011 3.5 ecoboost 74k miles.. Threw a P0300.. Bucking hard under boost. Swapped out the plugs and they all had a gap of .040-.060. The truck is running fine now.
Thanks for all the information, I will avoid 3.5 EcoBoost at all cost and stick to Coyote if I find one for a good deal amongst EcoBoosts it's like a needle in a haystack
Had my first lemon light come on today on the highway at WOT. Started misfiring bad. It's always done it a bit, but today was the first time I saw and engine light. Truck is a 2011 with 100,000km, still original CAC. It's -15c in Toronto right now and I notice it does it more so in the colder weather. I temporarily covered the bottom 8 fins of the CAC with cardboard like they say in the TSB. Did a bunch of WOT tests on the way home. Sputtering is gone, go figure. I'm contemplating getting a dyno tune as well because these things make more black smoke than a diesel at WOT. Seems like a pretty rich factory tune.
Yeah it looks like you need that cac tsb done for sure not to mention all the calibration updates. All the ecoboost engines run very sooty at the tailpipes it has something to do with the direct injection back in the day 90's I believe bmw had direct injection and all they had was issues with carbon build up causing all kinds of issues, while we don't have the carbon on the valves problems with todays technology the soot still exist. I have ran these at WOT many times and never seen any black smoke, you are likely misfiring so bad you are sending raw fuel down.
Wow I have a 2011 F-150 Lariat SCREW EcoBoost and my dealer has been horrible over the past two years regarding the misfiring I have experienced. Going to have a private mechanic check the coils for me now, hopefully replacing any dead coils and changing the sparkplugs YET AGAIN will provide me with a very expensive truck that I can actually drive without fear for my life! Oh my CATS are DEAD now as well, thanks Ford, more money to dump on top of this pile of crap you sold me. At 44 years of age this is the first Ford product I have ever bought, it will be the last as well. The Government is a scam, allowing Ford out of being hit with a much needed FULL FACTORY RECALL and BUYBACK on these flawed design POS trucks!
I've been told that SP542 is better, especially when adding a tune, like 93 octane performance program. Everyone has their favorite, so best of luck out there.
I experience a lot of issued with spark plug cracking. What I've done is changing the spark plug AND the rubber boot (WR-6135) at the tip of the ignition coil. It solve the recurrent problem of spark plug cracking. Don't forget that spark plug must be torque at 100in-lbs.
Has this been fixed on 2015 F150 and newer or is it still a problem?. Thanks for your get videos always well done and very informative. How about the extreme cold we have had, do you think the intercooler they have been playing with is still the main problem?
2015 f150 3.5 ecoboost with 21000 miles. truck had the po305 **cylinder 5 misfire** engine ran rough. replaced plugs and coil pack boots, engine runs very smooth, used .028 gap. when plugs were removed all had apx .032-.033" gap except for the #5 cylinder. that plug had the ground electrode bent in and shorted to the iridium electrode. the ground actually looked as though it was bent inwards. all used plugs show light black soot. the truck was only driven 25 miles to get it home once the missfire was detected. after plug replacement with smooth idle and smooth acceleration during the 1 mile test drive i took it on, the fault codes were then cleared. on reboot of obdii scan tool it still shows po305 fault code but the engine check light is not on. do you recommend driving the truck for a longer test drive, then rescan with obdii or swapping #4 and #5 coil packs then test drive to see if the fault moves? i suppose the shorted #5 plug could have damaged the #5 coil pack.
I think active grill shutters should be standard on every EcoBoost engine, since the Focus, not an EcoBoost car, except in Europe, comes with it to save fuel and improve aerodynamics. If the grill opening is too big, then active grill shutters should be included.
I have a eco boost f 150 2013 runs great no problem runs 13.5 on the track with just a tune and cai best truck I've owned so don't let this stop u from buying one just get on it some time every intercooler gets moisture from hot air just like a air compressor I never had any problems I got about 30000 miles now and out runs and out pulls any truck in its class
got a 2013 ecoboost f150 XLT supercrew and not a single problem @ 47K miles on it. I also use my truck as a truck and pull tractors or other various equipment regularly in Florida where it is very humid. I love this truck, and it also out runs the Ram's, Chevy's and Tundra's my buddies have. and mine only has the 3.15 gears. Just saying...
Thank you for the video! I’m experiencing this as of today. Is this something that would typically be covered under warranty? Thank you for any insight!
I bought a 2019 Ford F-150 with the 2.7 Ecoboost. I'm hearing a lot about the Oil cans being installed on the Ecoboost Engines. Would you recommend that I install one on my new truck? Been watching some of your videos good stuff man keep it up.
Had this happen to my 2012 ecoboost while trying to pass on the high way. Truck has 70,000 miles on it. I bought the extend warranty but was told plugs and coil are a wear and tear item and the repair wasn't covered. They replaced plugs and coil and was fine for a couple months and truck just did it again, this time I put it in neutral and coasted for a bit and put it back in drive and seemed to be ok, no check engine light either this time. Both times it happens it was wet and rainy out.
The updated TSB didnt solve the issue for me when I had it done under warranty To solve this I bought a Full Race intercooler and charge pipe and ran one step colder Iridium NGK plugs gapped at .026. Solved everything and will run 18 pounds no problem with a my tune
The latest TSB helped a little for me on my newly bought used FX4 w/20,000 miles however, I went to the newer Motorcraft Iridium plugs pre-gapped at .031 and also a Wagner intercooler. I'll see how it goes, then I'll start trying my Livernois tunes.I've heard that they have been tuning the ecoboost for several years. Thanks for another option on the plugs.
Thanks for the video. I had these issues and did the fixes described. Wish i had seen this video sooner...LOL Have you seen a better option for the spark plugs rather than using the stock ones? Also is there any benefit of using a AE cooler over the modified ones?
Brian Schmidt I don't get into the aftermarket plugs but many on the boards will have tried many others. If the issue is severe enough and the other fixes are not doing it then I would consider the AE cooler as a last resort.
ford needs to get it together. they shouldve tested more than just one random engine to extremes. i love my truck but the problems. i changed plugs at 66k 3 had cracked insulators, blown turbo at 64k. when i take it to the dealer they tell me nothing of recalls or t.s.b.'s. last time i took it, i had a "shudder" and loss of power it wouldn't go over 2k rpm 4-6 gear. the tech said nothing about plugs, but he said it felt like a misfire?? ordered a catch can just waiting on it
Great video..Great job on the detail & explanation ! I heard about this from a customer with a video on how his ecoboost was misfiring. As a over all car & truck guy I started just following this problem. I was in the market for a truck and was interested the #`s that Ford was claiming by the EcoBoost.But this was the by far the best info on this problem with the 3.5L EcoBoost.
I have a 2018 F150 misfire. A thousand miles now I'm wondering if I'm having the same problem Ford lot told me it was spark plugs and coil pack???? any help will be appreciated great video man
We just started to get the misfires @77K. I will be looking for any cracked plugs. I don't know of any issue about water issues and I live by the beach and fog. The truck has always ran great. Ran the truck from Fresno, Ca to Bakersfield, Ca to test the Max MPG and got 25.3 mpg @ average 60 miles average for 103 miles. No other issues, great truck for the fist 77K miles. I'll just change the plugs at 50K and run it. I just run 87 fuel and not tried any blended fuel. I always heard to stay away from blended fuel if you can.
05.25.2015: Current Miles 119,000. While going down the freeway at 73MPH, at just a tad over 2000 RPM up about a 3-4% Grade the truck would shutter. It would also misfire when you were under hard acceleration. The 3.4Eco Boost had a misfire. Took it to ford and it came back with a bad coil, and a fouled spark plug. Note I never pushed the truck with this issue as ford stated that the unborn fuel can damage the exhaust system. The lower end shudder has fixed however the truck still has a misfire under hard acceleration. I’m talking about getting up to freeway speeds on a short on ramp. It has original wires, ford stated they are good however the issue remains so back to the shop for a closer look. The bad coil was the first issue outside of plugs so it's been a very reliable truck. While I’m on the topic if you tow with the truck I found it's best do not use Tow Haul mode for better MPG. I find if you drop the truck down to 5th gear, find the sweet spot where the turbos just spool up and you can get it in the 12. MPG. It's a bit of a trick. I ran a fairly heavy dual axel enclosed trailer. Now this may not sound good but when i ran tow haul it would allow the truck into over drive and it would lug causing me to get 9.2pmg! It was bad until i learned how to drive it.
OK how are the 2.7 V6 Ecoboosts doing?? A possible solution could be to add a small centrifugal supercharger for the low end pressure and also relocation the turbos in the bottom of the car. This would solve the lag of placing the turbos further down in the exhaust system by adding boost from the supercharger on the front end. This would help the overall heat issues.
I bought my eco boost back in Dec. 2013 mine misfired on the interstate last week with 18k miles on it. My family was with me, I believe for a truck that was well over $50k I should not be having this problem. To me ford should have to buy these trucks back. What will it take someone getting killed before they get serious about fixing this problem and stop glueing stuff on the trucks (really?). I will be trading my eco boost very shortly and will probably have to take a pretty big loss on it simply because I am not willing to put my families life at risk if it rains or is humid.
Had a similar thing happen with a VW diesel. Driving in heavy rain then the engine had a hydro lock when I tried to start it again. Took off the intercooler discharge pipe and there was water in the bottom.
dude, you're about 2.5 years late. deflectors, foam tape, etc.etc. the misfire occurrence's with the f150 eco's is getting sorted. our dealership sells a pile of these trucks, only a few have gone through this. if spark plugs were replaced when recommended by ford (apprx every 95,oookm), this problem would lesson, but people are cheap, and don't like to maintain.
Thank you for posting this. Is there any way to determine the condition of the cats? I have been through this misfire issue many times with my 12' and warranty is about to expire.
I had no idea this was a such a huge issue until I started having the issue on my 2011. I had noticed that a few times in the past it would go limp on hard acceleration but it didn't happen very often. When I asked about it, I was told that they couldn't reproduce it. I suspect I was being given the old run around. Well, Friday 2/20/15 on my way to work it started bucking really bad but cleared up when I lighted up the throttle. It was -10F and I thought that might have something ot do with it. In doing research, I dicovered the mentioned Spark plug issue, then thinking that may be the route I should explore due to the low temperature and humity. Sure enough number 6 had a cracked plug. I changed those and it runs fine. But with 78300 miles I would like to get the TSB taken care of. Does anyone know if I would have to pay out of pocket with that mileage?
I’m having this issue Misfire p0305 I’ve changed spark plugs and it felt like it ran way nicer ! But still the code kept saying p0305 after So I switched coils over, nothing changed still cylinder 5 misfire . Checked wiring Not sure what else it could be A 02 sensor possible giving it a false air gas mix . Should say 02 P0172 or to rich code then . Which it doesn’t Confused Is it this intercooler issue! And I can’t fix it at all Just keep feeding it spark plugs :(
Sey... I've been having intermittent misfires in my MKS. I swapped all my plugs to the PULSTAR plugs & even a coil pack but it still does it?! All the plugs are gapped to .032, all are torqued to factory spec... yet, only under certain throttle loads does this happen. Why? Couldn't tell you, but the car clears the flashing "check engine" light after a few minutes of limping?! Been to my local dealer & a performance shop; neither can figure it. I'm at 61K
+Darvell La'Rick Powell If you have a flashing check engine light you need to see which code is set for which cylinder and concentrate on that one, then put motorcraft plug back in that cylinder and retest.
Definitely! I called Enerpulse about the issues & gave the same solution for the same issues as I remember for my previous car... my 2010 Taurus SHO. So i set the plug gaps to .025... same problem w/ less occurrence. I know there's mechanical spec difference between these engines, so i figure why not go for a smaller gap at .020... its working just as fine as my SHO did! I don't get why, but it is. Next is a CAI from Airaid & the ECU tune from Hennessey, the rear CDS rotors from Stoptech to match the front to slow me down as fast as i speed up!
FordTechMakuloco seems there are some other issues than these plugs... now that I've got the misfiring solved, now its idling funny & has stalled a couple times.
FordTechMakuloco My wife’s 2010 Lincoln MKT AWD 3.5 ecoboost with 85K began surging and and misfiring several months ago. The local Ford dealer said a “tune-up” was needed. The spark plugs were replaced and a coil boot was replaced as it was “dry rotted”. Car ran a little better, but the surging and misfiring continued. When returned to the dealer it took several hours of “technical research” to determine the problem. The ECM was reflashed. The misfire was basically cured, but the surging continued and the combined mileage dropped to 12.7 MPG. Car returned for the third time. After a day and a half the technician “could not replicate the surging”. The service writer suggested that the problem “might be the way my wife drove”. I told him we drove very differently and the problem was the same for both of us. I said I would come down and take the technician for a drive if he couldn’t replicate the problem. The technician remarkably was able to replicate the problem, but couldn’t “pull any codes”. We told them to keep the car until they figured it out. Any ideas about curing the surging?
performing the TSB basically reduces engine power and especially towing performance. The customer loses because they don't get the power that was advertised.The intercooler isn't too big it was designed to tow 11k lbs on the heat and still provide cool intake air so timing and power could be maintained. .Its insanity to block any portion of it which in turn also reduces the performance of the radiator, transmission cooling and air conditioning condenser.What Ford should have done is noticed this in testing, and either provided a hinged door that can open via a small air operated servo similar to a wastegate that stays closed due to spring pressure,until sufficient boost is generated, continous boost pressure forces the door open after a few seconds,giving the full area of the intercooler..a kit could be made up easily to do this, no electronics, very simple one hose off the intake, a small restrictor, and bleed hole to provide a delay so it only opens under close to max boost.If I owned one this is what I'd do...blocking the intercooler all the time is just wrong..
Maybe I missed it but you’re not covering what’s causing the cracking to begin with. I’ve been fighting this issue since 15’ with two different trucks. I’ve tried hotter, colder, different brands. I’ve had all six plugs crack immediately within seconds of starting the truck after replacing. The ones that last the least are the motorcrafts and NGK, but autolite typically lasts longer than the others. But will still crack one by one over the course of two to three months. I’m getting real sick of having to replace spark plugs. Really wish there was an actual fix for this.
FordTechMakuloco Hello, I have a 2012 Ford F150 3.5 V6 Ecoboost with 22,000 miles on it. I bought late October 2012. I havent had any misfires yet and I was watching this video. What do you recommend me to do to prevent this misfire and water collection and CAT damage? Should I take the truck to Ford to get a different Charger Cooler? Or leave the same charger cooler and get a catch can? If I need to put a catch can, which one do your recommend?
Good vid. I bought a used f150 with the ecoboost that had 80K miles. I started to have the misfire out of the blue. I knew that the 100K tune up was "close" so I changed the spark plugs. Are you recommending that I get those deflectors? Can u elaborate more on the cat converter issue? Once the plugs are changed should I still have to worry about it? Thanks.
If you don't have a humid or rainy day misfire then no do not get the deflectors they only hurt performance. As for the cat converter issue- The water droplets from the CAC get sent through the system and the way the intake manifold is designed they all go to bank 2 cylinders. Therefore you have multiple cylinders misfiring on the same bank sending raw fuel down to the cat. The cat is hot enough to burn it off, cat gets red hot and either plugs up or breaks apart from the extreme temps. The pcm does not see cat converting and thrown the P0430 codes, now you need a cat and they are only emissions warranty till 80k, so its a good idea to take care of misfires before they destroy the cats.
hddm3 On these Ford want the cats back so aint nobody making money on cats, which is unusual because Ford usually doesn't want the cats back, now Chrysler wants every cat back they warranty.
Had the air shield put on and the reflash done. Was good about 6 months I was trying to pass a car on the highway last week and the truck got a misfire. Cylinder 6. Swapped coils on 5 and 6 erased the code and restarted the truck got missfire on 5. So I got a new coil and all new motorcraft plugs. Now the truck shudders when I apply any heavy gas or try to pass another car. Today check Engine went on again. Cylinder 6. WtF!!!
Just a little bit of info, my 2011 just started misfiring on cyl. #3 while climbing a steep hill at highway speeds, that was repeatable over and over, eventually leading to the CEL staying on. I suspected the coil pack on that cylinder so i swapped the #3 coil pack with the #4 and sure enough the misfire went to the #4 cylinder. I ordered a new coil pack and changed all six plugs and its good as new again. I had already had the LH side Cat replaced as well as the updated CAC and Calibration. Just thought I would share my experience since it is a very simple way to troubleshoot!
I have a 2011 just changed the sparkplugs only cause I wanted to, they were basically new so if someone is having problems with the f150 is not me, my truck was running perfect before and is running perfect now, I think this problem does not happen very often
If you dealing with yourself and trying to do the work your self how long or how many misfires ruins a cat? Doing a round of plugs today and trying figure out if I have the right stuff on the in cooler. Could just doing plugs fix the problem, I have no codes but on a autozone scan tool,
changed my driver side turbo after 13 months having the 2013 ecoboost. (wastegate was screwed) sounded like a barking dog during hard acceleration and loss of power. Now my passenger side turbo is making the same sound and loss of power, bringing it in again.. so :(
NGK Iridium plugs call for a 0.038 thous gap... a "Tuned" truck with performance upgrades would require a smaller gap of closer to 0.030. I have heard of guys goping to a 0.028 gap, but it seems a bit to tight to me. Personally I have had no problems with my 2012 Ecobbost 3.5l ( only had lag and hesitation when I installed a K&N filter...it was so bad at times that I almost thought the truck was going to stall...swapped back to a new factory one & no more problems)
I have a 2010 Taurus SHO with a misfire, I believe it’s already toasted my cat unfortunately but the misfire only happens at 4500 RPM or so. I’ve cleaned the CAC out, changed plugs, swapped coils, and checked compression (checked out good) and it still happens. What could this be? I would love your input on it as I just got this vehicle and have learned about the issues that plagues it. It has a code p0430 now that’s related to this misfire I believe.
a friend of mine that works at a ford dealer. is a chevy man. with a fast race car. i ask him why he works on fords. " the OEM fords need the most repairs."
Would this also cause my trucks idle to jump up and down about 200 to 300 RPM's. I took it into the dealership and the reflashed everything and said that should fix it. It did not. Have you heard of this before? Thanks.
+motodrummer No matter what you want to at least check the gap and if need be adjust it. These plus are used on multiple models so the gap is very general. Not to mention Ford back peddled and changed the spec.
I have the 1.6L ecoboost in my wife's Escape. Have you noticed this carbon tracking with all of Ford's turbo motors or just the 3.5L? We haven't had any problems with the engine missing yet, but it's only got 7800 miles on it. If I can do preventive maintenance and upgrade plugs to avoid the problem, I will. Easy fix if that's all it is. I never bought the 100k mile plug theory anyway. Yeah, it'll run okay for that long with the new high energy ignitions and coil-on-plug, but nowhere near peak performance. In my newer model rides, I've been doing them about every 30k miles with good results. I attribute the above average gas mileage I tend to get to that practice along with frequent oil changes, because I've never babied my cars.
I have seen this on a 2013 fusion with the same engine in it 1.6l GTDI low mileage so it is possible as long as it is boosted it seems. I just changed plugs on my 2012 explorer 2.0l GTDI they all looked good no sign of it.
I have a 2011 3.5L ecoboost with 96000 miles. I have a misfire on cylinder 4 and both cats are bad. I replaced all the sparkplugs and moved the coils to different cylinders yet nothing has worked. what do you recommend I do next? The truck has trouble going up hills and stumbles when accelerating hard.
It's funny that people who never have run a boosted engine are discovering how much a pain they can be. For instance I ran 30 pounds of boost on my evo for years. I religiously change, and re-gap my plugs every 6 months. It's almost like they are freaking out when the gap wear gets too big lol. Re-gap them, or if they are bit old get rid of them and go with a fresh set. Also forget iridiums or platinums. Just use coppers with big ground straps (if available). FYI platinums are a worse conductor than copper, iridiums aren't worth the money and are harder to gap. Intercooler design is also obviously garbage. Honestly these problems are very simple to me. However I live with this on a daily basis for the last decade.
Of course copper has always been the premium conductor just doesn't wear long. One thing I do notice is the other ecoboost engines from Ford do not have any of these issues excewpt for a rare carbon tracking issue here and there. All of the problems are on the F150 maybe they just get run harder. Even the 3.5L Ecoboost in the Taurus SHO has none of these problems runs great tons of power never need a re gap for performance reasons anyway.
Taurus isn't a 5000 pound vehicle either. Anyone who thinks an iridium plug will be ok for 100,000 miles on a heavy vehicle with a boosted engine for all the consumers is crazy.
Do you have a video that addresses oil/fuel dilution, In the 3.5 ecoboost, I have lean codes with pegged negative fuel trims, overfilled oil smelling like gas and goes normal when I disconnect the pc valve.
Yup I remember watching that video. Wearing down of the plugs I understand on a turbo engine, cracking of the plugs and carbon tracking shouldn't be happening.
In a way I'm not surprised. They torture tested this, but I'd think 80% of the owners' engines won't see that kind of heat. Maybe the large intercooler should have been an upgrade with a towing package. If the charge air doesn't get hot enough to rid any excess condensation, then we have this problem.. I think it's more of prolonged under-heating of this platform... = "Soccer-mom" syndrome.
Ive been considering a 2014 Ford Taurus SEL AWD, but i hear there is a serious issue with timing belt stretching. Has that issue been resolved or addressed by Ford. Should i be looking at a different car or should the 2014 Taurus be okay. Thanks
What is your take on drilling the 1/8" or 1/16" hole in the lowest point of the plastic intercooler outlet? I haven't done it but I've seen it done. I have mixed emotions on wether it's a good idea. Was hoping with your experience you would be able to give me some insight.
I experienced misfires with my 2012 F150 EcoBoost at about 75k. I checked of six plugs and the Gap was 43. it should be 33 or 32. I replace the plugs. no more misfires.
i just bought a 2011 3.5 ecoboost last week with 58k miles.i had one misfire this week.but since i got it.i been driving it aggressively to check it out,could that have been the issue of the one misfire.also.if i put a grill on the bumper would that be any help??
+Kriminal919 The misfire is either from the plugs being out of spec or the charge air cooler full of water. If you put a grill on that lower section it should have no effect on it.
+FordTechMakuloco im buying truck next week. 2016 ecoboost 3.5 or 5.0 mustang GT whats your honest opnion on both cars. Should i even buy a ecoboost 3.5? I love the power and tow often but maybe i shoul get the 5.0 motor? im also consideriong a GT premium track pack
I am considering purchasing a preowned 2011 ecoboost F150. Is there any way that I can check under the hood and see visually if these things have been taken care of? And in your opinion, would buying the first model year of that engine be a good idea?
+Phillip Merlino 2011 has its issues for sure most didn't get rectified until 2013. Things like the vacuum pumps and intercoolers cause some major repair bills. Best thing to do is drive it make sure it is solid ask for repair history and then follow my videos on the ecoboost problems to fix the know issues before they become big issues. Unless it is high mileage these issues likely have not been addressed.
hey Brian,I would like to be a mechanic,I don't think it would be that hard for me to be it because I'm mechanically incline,and knowledgeable about cars,but still learning,what is the best way to get it based on your experience?? thanks
The best way to get a job as a mechanic is to goto a technical school or community college auto program and work at a shop like pepboys or similar at the same time.
I have a 13 f150 ecoboost with 22,000 miles. It just started this rough idle and when taking off it hesitates. Well when it had 5,000 miles on it, I installed a 4 inch solo performance exhaust (catback) and an AFE dual cold air intake. Ran great, lots of power till now. Took it to dealer, They are saying because of the modifications, that's whats causing my issues! Its not, I read numerous posts of people having this issue. Because I'm a woman, they must think I'm stupid. Any suggestions what I should do? Oh and the filters on the cold air intake are clean. They tried to tell me to clean them HA!
+windy Ogle Trade it and get yourself a Tundra. Man Drives His Toyota Tundra for One Million Miles www.yahoo.com/news/man-drives-toyota-tundra-one-million-miles-170018109.html
Well...I would have been happy with that answer a year and a half ago, so will tuners get around this? I'm usually not on the road long enough to warm it up in time for the Rpm's to drop. And my commute is highway
I am sure there are tuners out there already now whether than can get around it and that part of the software is encrypted I am not sure. If you are going on that short of trips this is a good thing, other wise you are going to be getting acid in the engine from all the condensation of the short trips.
Hey, Im interested in the tune they are putting on with the TSB. My 2011, at about 45k went in with this issue, I live in Texas and this happens over a year ago, happened really bad and often. The put on the deflector and retuned, and the problem was back within a week. I eventually pulled the plugs and re-gapped the, shrinking the gap down smaller. This cured it for about a year, now at 62k its back. But one of the biggest thing I noticed was the 2mpg drop with the tune. Anyone else get worse MPG after the TSB re-tune? driving style has not changed and I went from 17.5 avg mpg to 16.5 over the year after the re-tune. I really want the pre-TSB tune back. I'm considering changing the plugs and going with an aftermarket tune.
FordTechMakuloco I just wanted to follow up and say my check engine code was saying misfire on cylinder #2. I pulled #2's plug and sure enough, the porcelain was cracked and I had carbon tracking. The gap was also too wide at .04x I decided to replace them all with motorcraft SP-534, all we're checked and pre gapped at .032. What a big difference. Misfire completely gone, power is much smoother, feels stronger, and best yet I'm averaging 19.9mpg. Guys...check your plugs! Intercooler sucking water doesn't seem to be an issue but has the same symptoms. When it was sucking water I think it did a number on the plugs. I plan to just replace these every 50k. Plugs we're only $6.00 from the dealer. Should I narrow the plugs even more to .028?
So I have a 16 f150 3.5 ecoboost 108k miles and I’m having a hard time with diagnostics. My is cracking spark plugs every week I have to replace the plugs literally every week
Thanks for your always useful vids. Had same issue when I bought truck used. Changed plugs, coils and added catch can. Problem resolved for about 20k miles but just came back. I will now change out plugs with .028 gapped . Also drilled a 1/16" weep hole on bottom of intercooler. There was oil & water contamination in there alright. Boost loss seems minimal with such a small hole. Sounds better then those stupid blocks. Thanks again for taking time out to inform folks.
Hi. I’m a fleet technician for the utility company. Working on 2014 f150 with 3.5 and 51535 miles. Looked up the video for misfire for 2014 f150 with 3.5. Engineering code was newest version. Pulled plugs and found multiple plugs with carbon tracking and #3 plug cracked. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Ordering updated plugs and boots.
Boosted cars need plugs changed often. I do mine once a year... small price to pay! Dunno why people get so upset over this, its a high strung motor its not gonna run for 200k miles without a problem.
Thanks for the informative video. I ran into this last summer after a 2000 mile road trip. I was at about 41,000 miles and thought it was bad fuel. Only misfired under WOT on the 2-3, and 3-4 shift. Normal driving it ran perfect, and no misfires. At 45,000 I decided to do the plugs (was going to do them at 50,000 anyways) and found they were wasted. I didn't have any that were cracked, but the gaps were all over .042". Gapped them at .030" and the engine runs perfect. Just turned 50,000 last week and not a hint of a misfire. Never had the CAC issue either. I have had the truck since July 2011 (bought it new) and only had on warranty repair of a leaking left turbo oil line that was not torqued correctly. The major issue I have had is the air filters plugging and the mileage will tank. I have been doing the air filter every 10,000 miles and that fixed that problem. Now I will be doing the plugs at 25k intervals just to avoid issues. For $5 a plug and 30 minutes to change it is easy maintenance. I did start running the Napa gold air filter at the last service as it is about twice the surface area of the factory one. I do run 93 octane fuel all the time, and run Mobil one 5w30 synthetic oil at 5k change intervals.
Hey whatever works is the way to go, good info!
I have watched several videos on this subject. You are the only one to actually explain what carbon tracking is. Thank you.
Thanks for this video, I bought my 3.5 F-150 Platinum used about a year ago and was starting to suffer from this misfire. 6 Motorcraft plugs later and it's running like a champ. You have gained a new subscriber.
The spark plug info really saved me. Had a miss fire while towing and uses my code reader to see I had #6 miss fire. Pulled the plug and saw the carbon tracking. New plugs and on the road again. You always have great info up here. Thanks
I bought a 2013 f150 eco boost with 126k miles in it about 5 months ago. I’m having this issue my self. I changed spark plugs (which had everything the video was saying) I just drilled the hole today and I had oil only dripping out while idling and spraying out when I gas it. I let it drain out completely and have no oil dripping now. I put in a catch can a few weeks ago and I didn’t check it till today and it was completely full. So with that it was sucking the oil through because it was to high (my fault). I highly recommend getting a catch can. I will be checking it biweekly now. I am also adding that plastic piece and reflashing it tomorrow at a Ford dealer. I did an oil change and I only drained 2.5L😫. She is running beautifully now. No lag at all but I will be further investigating where this oil is going. Thank you baby Jesus for TH-camrs and these comments.
I'm running a 2013 3.5L EcoBoost in an FX4 and it's absolutely awesome. I'm only @ 18k miles but it has been a fun 18k. Looking forward to pulling my camping trailer around all summer long.
I have owned two 2nd gen 3.5 ecoboost 2017 and 2019. I also owned a 2014 5L. I put alot of kms on my trucks 60-75 per year. The ecoboost is outstanding IMO. I've never had a single issue with the ones I've owned.
FordTechMakuloco My wife’s 2010 Lincoln MKT AWD 3.5 ecoboost with 85K began surging and and misfiring several months ago. The local Ford dealer said a “tune-up” was needed. The spark plugs were replaced and a coil boot was replaced as it was “dry rotted”. Car ran a little better, but the surging and misfiring continued. When returned to the dealer it took several hours of “technical research” to determine the problem. The ECM was reflashed. The misfire was basically cured, but the surging continued and the combined mileage dropped to 12.7 MPG. Car returned for the third time. After a day and a half the technician “could not replicate the surging”. The service writer suggested that the problem “might be the way my wife drove”. I told him we drove very differently and the problem was the same for both of us. I said I would come down and take the technician for a drive if he couldn’t replicate the problem. The technician remarkably was able to replicate the problem, but couldn’t “pull any codes”. We told them to keep the car until they figured it out. Any ideas about curing the surging?
Had this exact problem. Changed plugs. Still misfire into limp mode. Drilled 1/16th weep hole and it’s like new!!! Up hills and highway not one issue. Drained a good amount of black fluid. Thanks for the vids.
Where did you drill
Great video! Thank you for all you are doing for us Ford owners.
Question: what is the proper torque value for the spark plugs? I am looking at doing this real soon as my 2011 Ecoboost FX4 is at 58,000 miles. Also, how to flush the Ecoboost coolant would be nice, and a tutorial on changing the trans filter would be nice as well. You are truly doing all of us a real favor unlocking the mysteries of these Ford cars and trucks!
I really like your videos and your honesty, having just bought a 2012 ecoboost i been trying to learn about fixing and tricks before hand, right before i found your video i watched one that another guy posted about this same problem, he showed drilling a 3/32 hole on the backside bottom of the cooler through the housing and they claim its been a total fix for the customer, would you look into that and let us know if that is something that would be a smart thing to do..
Thanks...Misfire on a 2014 F150 Ecoboost 3.5L 72k miles. ...I did just that...pulled the plug and looked just like that one. Replaced the plug and the ignition. The gap on the old plug was large as you described. I still need to test the old coil. If the old one is still good...then I have an emergency spare on hand. Im going to change all the plugs soon. Great vids! thx!
I plan on replacing my plugs every 50k anyway. Thankfully "knock on wood" haven't had misfire issues at all. It does idle a little shaky but that's just the nature of the beast. Great video man.
I wish they would invest in diesel engine technology and put it in the trucks. Better fuel economy, more torque, more durable... Better than putting more and more pressure in engine to get more power out of small displacement and put all components ender great strain so they fail. BMW is doing the same and very unreliable.
They were going to do that but opted for the ecoboost instead, it has all the great features of a diesel (except the diesel would probably have a bit better fuel economy) but the thing is diesel here is 30-40 cents more a gallon, diesel engine would be an expensive option on a build, the diesel would be heavier, more problems (glow plugs fuel gelling urera injection needed etc) with ecoboost none of that is needed and it has lots of horse power, gobs of torque and more importantly a flat torque curve with max torque starting as low as 2k rpm which is the same as diesels.
FordTechMakuloco
I agree, you get a lot of performance and better fuel economy. I'm wondering if they can find a way to make the engine components more reliable with all the pressure. For example, the BMW engines face a similar problem with fuel injectors failing due to high pressure. I can't wait to see the new 2.7 L ecoboost. I'm hoping they worked out some of the problems, that would be fantastic!
bluesky I tell you base engine wise the engine has been very reliable so far surprisingly.
I bet, engine technology has come a long way in the past few years.
dodge is gonna be changing that
Thanks for the info,these Ford,s are so full of problems with banage fixes hard to keep up without TSB,s
And they told me I was crazy to put a grill in my bumper over that hole... Good info for people who haven't heard on the issues of the F150 eco. No problems on my 2012 haven't even had the TSB's done.
Experienced this issue twice, most recently two weeks ago, with my '12 F150. Dealer did nothing last year. In with dealer now, will be interesting to see what they do. Barely have 25,000 miles on it. This video really helps to demystify possible issue, thanks a million for posting it.
Im so glad I looked at this before I got one because I was going to get the 3.5L eco boost. Now I might just go with the V8 engine. Thanks for the tip
I would. The eco boost is a great engine when it's running well but I don't trust mine anymore. I hit 100K miles and it went to shit. $3K for timing chain. Starting to replace coils, I've done the plugs 4 times now. I've even drilled the hole in the CAC and it still has misfires!
@@jjsemperfi aah shit my truck just started with the misfires ☹I barely hit 55 and damn misfires kick it
Victor Perez Take off the throttle body and check for oil in intake manifold. That was the main cause for my misfires. I drilled an additional hole in my CAC as well.
@@jjsemperfi did drilling the whole solve your issue as well?
Victor Perez I think it will help prevent the future accumulation of oil in the CAC that runs up to the intake manifold and down into the cylinders. I think that is the cause of the misfires.
Very very INFORMAL MAKULOCO. WHILE IM AN INDEPENDENT OWNER, I HAVE WORKED FOR FORD AND CHRYSLER. GREAT VIDEOS! THIS ONE IS GREAT!
I find that intercooler blocker hillarious. :) I'm a tech with BMW, and I'm always amused by fixes like this. Trust me, I've seen my fair share. Thanks for the info! Always good to learn. I myself drive an '11 F150.
I just bought a 2011 3.5 ecoboost 74k miles.. Threw a P0300.. Bucking hard under boost. Swapped out the plugs and they all had a gap of .040-.060. The truck is running fine now.
I'll keep my old fashioned push rod V8 for awhile yet....
Why don't they do their homework and test it enough before the final production ???
fixing a new engine problems is rude and stupid .
Thanks for all the information, I will avoid 3.5 EcoBoost at all cost and stick to Coyote if I find one for a good deal amongst EcoBoosts it's like a needle in a haystack
Had my first lemon light come on today on the highway at WOT. Started misfiring bad. It's always done it a bit, but today was the first time I saw and engine light. Truck is a 2011 with 100,000km, still original CAC. It's -15c in Toronto right now and I notice it does it more so in the colder weather. I temporarily covered the bottom 8 fins of the CAC with cardboard like they say in the TSB. Did a bunch of WOT tests on the way home. Sputtering is gone, go figure. I'm contemplating getting a dyno tune as well because these things make more black smoke than a diesel at WOT. Seems like a pretty rich factory tune.
Yeah it looks like you need that cac tsb done for sure not to mention all the calibration updates. All the ecoboost engines run very sooty at the tailpipes it has something to do with the direct injection back in the day 90's I believe bmw had direct injection and all they had was issues with carbon build up causing all kinds of issues, while we don't have the carbon on the valves problems with todays technology the soot still exist. I have ran these at WOT many times and never seen any black smoke, you are likely misfiring so bad you are sending raw fuel down.
I have a ‘15 Expedition with 120K and it has these problems. Are you seeing these come in with these symptoms now?? Great info thanks!
Threw a P302.... Cracked plug. Replaced all of them, problem solved. Thank you.
Wow I have a 2011 F-150 Lariat SCREW EcoBoost and my dealer has been horrible over the past two years regarding the misfiring I have experienced. Going to have a private mechanic check the coils for me now, hopefully replacing any dead coils and changing the sparkplugs YET AGAIN will provide me with a very expensive truck that I can actually drive without fear for my life!
Oh my CATS are DEAD now as well, thanks Ford, more money to dump on top of this pile of crap you sold me.
At 44 years of age this is the first Ford product I have ever bought, it will be the last as well.
The Government is a scam, allowing Ford out of being hit with a much needed FULL FACTORY RECALL and BUYBACK on these flawed design POS trucks!
what's the best plugs for a 3.5 ecoboost
I've been told that SP542 is better, especially when adding a tune, like 93 octane performance program. Everyone has their favorite, so best of luck out there.
I experience a lot of issued with spark plug cracking. What I've done is changing the spark plug AND the rubber boot (WR-6135) at the tip of the ignition coil. It solve the recurrent problem of spark plug cracking. Don't forget that spark plug must be torque at 100in-lbs.
Has this been fixed on 2015 F150 and newer or is it still a problem?. Thanks for your get videos always well done and very informative. How about the extreme cold we have had, do you think the intercooler they have been playing with is still the main problem?
2015 f150 3.5 ecoboost with 21000 miles. truck had the po305 **cylinder 5 misfire** engine ran rough. replaced plugs and coil pack boots, engine runs very smooth, used .028 gap. when plugs were removed all had apx .032-.033" gap except for the #5 cylinder. that plug had the ground electrode bent in and shorted to the iridium electrode. the ground actually looked as though it was bent inwards. all used plugs show light black soot. the truck was only driven 25 miles to get it home once the missfire was detected. after plug replacement with smooth idle and smooth acceleration during the 1 mile test drive i took it on, the fault codes were then cleared. on reboot of obdii scan tool it still shows po305 fault code but the engine check light is not on. do you recommend driving the truck for a longer test drive, then rescan with obdii or swapping #4 and #5 coil packs then test drive to see if the fault moves? i suppose the shorted #5 plug could have damaged the #5 coil pack.
I think active grill shutters should be standard on every EcoBoost engine, since the Focus, not an EcoBoost car, except in Europe, comes with it to save fuel and improve aerodynamics. If the grill opening is too big, then active grill shutters should be included.
I have a eco boost f 150 2013 runs great no problem runs 13.5 on the track with just a tune and cai best truck I've owned so don't let this stop u from buying one just get on it some time every intercooler gets moisture from hot air just like a air compressor I never had any problems I got about 30000 miles now and out runs and out pulls any truck in its class
got a 2013 ecoboost f150 XLT supercrew and not a single problem @ 47K miles on it. I also use my truck as a truck and pull tractors or other various equipment regularly in Florida where it is very humid. I love this truck, and it also out runs the Ram's, Chevy's and Tundra's my buddies have. and mine only has the 3.15 gears. Just saying...
Thank you for the video! I’m experiencing this as of today. Is this something that would typically be covered under warranty? Thank you for any insight!
Doesn't this make you feel like an unpaid member of Ford's R&D department. Me, I feel more like an un appreciated laboratory guinea pig
I bought a 2019 Ford F-150 with the 2.7 Ecoboost. I'm hearing a lot about the Oil cans being installed on the Ecoboost Engines. Would you recommend that I install one on my new truck? Been watching some of your videos good stuff man keep it up.
Had this happen to my 2012 ecoboost while trying to pass on the high way. Truck has 70,000 miles on it. I bought the extend warranty but was told plugs and coil are a wear and tear item and the repair wasn't covered. They replaced plugs and coil and was fine for a couple months and truck just did it again, this time I put it in neutral and coasted for a bit and put it back in drive and seemed to be ok, no check engine light either this time. Both times it happens it was wet and rainy out.
The updated TSB didnt solve the issue for me when I had it done under warranty To solve this I bought a Full Race intercooler and charge pipe and ran one step colder Iridium NGK plugs gapped at .026. Solved everything and will run 18 pounds no problem with a my tune
Nice! Good information.
The latest TSB helped a little for me on my newly bought used FX4 w/20,000 miles however, I went to the newer Motorcraft Iridium plugs pre-gapped at .031 and also a Wagner intercooler. I'll see how it goes, then I'll start trying my Livernois tunes.I've heard that they have been tuning the ecoboost for several years. Thanks for another option on the plugs.
How many pounds of boost are the stock tunes running?
Thanks for the video. I had these issues and did the fixes described. Wish i had seen this video sooner...LOL Have you seen a better option for the spark plugs rather than using the stock ones? Also is there any benefit of using a AE cooler over the modified ones?
Brian Schmidt I don't get into the aftermarket plugs but many on the boards will have tried many others. If the issue is severe enough and the other fixes are not doing it then I would consider the AE cooler as a last resort.
ford needs to get it together. they shouldve tested more than just one random engine to extremes. i love my truck but the problems. i changed plugs at 66k 3 had cracked insulators, blown turbo at 64k. when i take it to the dealer they tell me nothing of recalls or t.s.b.'s. last time i took it, i had a "shudder" and loss of power it wouldn't go over 2k rpm 4-6 gear. the tech said nothing about plugs, but he said it felt like a misfire?? ordered a catch can just waiting on it
Great video..Great job on the detail & explanation ! I heard about this from a customer with a video on how his ecoboost was misfiring. As a over all car & truck guy I started just following this problem. I was in the market for a truck and was interested the #`s that Ford was claiming by the EcoBoost.But this was the by far the best info on this problem with the 3.5L EcoBoost.
Well thank you!
I have a 2018 F150 misfire. A thousand miles now I'm wondering if I'm having the same problem Ford lot told me it was spark plugs and coil pack???? any help will be appreciated great video man
We just started to get the misfires @77K. I will be looking for any cracked plugs. I don't know of any issue about water issues and I live by the beach and fog. The truck has always ran great. Ran the truck from Fresno, Ca to Bakersfield, Ca to test the Max MPG and got 25.3 mpg @ average 60 miles average for 103 miles. No other issues, great truck for the fist 77K miles. I'll just change the plugs at 50K and run it. I just run 87 fuel and not tried any blended fuel. I always heard to stay away from blended fuel if you can.
Wow that mpg is impressive. I am glad you aren't having any issues, it is a great engine overall.
05.25.2015: Current Miles 119,000. While going down the freeway at 73MPH, at just a tad over 2000 RPM up about a 3-4% Grade the truck would shutter. It would also misfire when you were under hard acceleration. The 3.4Eco Boost had a misfire. Took it to ford and it came back with a bad coil, and a fouled spark plug. Note I never pushed the truck with this issue as ford stated that the unborn fuel can damage the exhaust system. The lower end shudder has fixed however the truck still has a misfire under hard acceleration. I’m talking about getting up to freeway speeds on a short on ramp. It has original wires, ford stated they are good however the issue remains so back to the shop for a closer look. The bad coil was the first issue outside of plugs so it's been a very reliable truck.
While I’m on the topic if you tow with the truck I found it's best do not use Tow Haul mode for better MPG. I find if you drop the truck down to 5th gear, find the sweet spot where the turbos just spool up and you can get it in the 12. MPG. It's a bit of a trick. I ran a fairly heavy dual axel enclosed trailer. Now this may not sound good but when i ran tow haul it would allow the truck into over drive and it would lug causing me to get 9.2pmg! It was bad until i learned how to drive it.
Denso Power Iridium is the Best Spark Plugs 💪
OK how are the 2.7 V6 Ecoboosts doing?? A possible solution could be to add a small centrifugal supercharger for the low end pressure and also relocation the turbos in the bottom of the car. This would solve the lag of placing the turbos further down in the exhaust system by adding boost from the supercharger on the front end. This would help the overall heat issues.
I bought my eco boost back in Dec. 2013 mine misfired on the interstate last week with 18k miles on it. My family was with me, I believe for a truck that was well over $50k I should not be having this problem. To me ford should have to buy these trucks back. What will it take someone getting killed before they get serious about fixing this problem and stop glueing stuff on the trucks (really?). I will be trading my eco boost very shortly and will probably have to take a pretty big loss on it simply because I am not willing to put my families life at risk if it rains or is humid.
Gear Runner Yeah they need to do something quick
Had a similar thing happen with a VW diesel. Driving in heavy rain then the engine had a hydro lock when I tried to start it again. Took off the intercooler discharge pipe and there was water in the bottom.
dude, you're about 2.5 years late. deflectors, foam tape, etc.etc. the misfire occurrence's with the f150 eco's is getting sorted. our dealership sells a pile of these trucks, only a few have gone through this. if spark plugs were replaced when recommended by ford (apprx every 95,oookm), this problem would lesson, but people are cheap, and don't like to maintain.
This is an old video yes, I agree most need plugs by 50k but manual says otherwise so many do not think that is it.
Thank you for posting this. Is there any way to determine the condition of the cats? I have been through this misfire issue many times with my 12' and warranty is about to expire.
T HALL Only with the scan tool can I tell based on waveform if the cats are close to failing I have a video showing this.
I had no idea this was a such a huge issue until I started having the issue on my 2011. I had noticed that a few times in the past it would go limp on hard acceleration but it didn't happen very often. When I asked about it, I was told that they couldn't reproduce it. I suspect I was being given the old run around. Well, Friday 2/20/15 on my way to work it started bucking really bad but cleared up when I lighted up the throttle. It was -10F and I thought that might have something ot do with it. In doing research, I dicovered the mentioned Spark plug issue, then thinking that may be the route I should explore due to the low temperature and humity. Sure enough number 6 had a cracked plug. I changed those and it runs fine. But with 78300 miles I would like to get the TSB taken care of. Does anyone know if I would have to pay out of pocket with that mileage?
Ford needs to quit letting the bean counters run the show....and use some better quality spark plugs...
I’m having this issue
Misfire p0305
I’ve changed spark plugs and it felt like it ran way nicer !
But still the code kept saying p0305 after
So I switched coils over, nothing changed still cylinder 5 misfire .
Checked wiring
Not sure what else it could be
A 02 sensor possible giving it a false air gas mix . Should say 02 P0172 or to rich code then . Which it doesn’t
Confused
Is it this intercooler issue!
And I can’t fix it at all
Just keep feeding it spark plugs :(
Sey... I've been having intermittent misfires in my MKS. I swapped all my plugs to the PULSTAR plugs & even a coil pack but it still does it?! All the plugs are gapped to .032, all are torqued to factory spec... yet, only under certain throttle loads does this happen. Why? Couldn't tell you, but the car clears the flashing "check engine" light after a few minutes of limping?! Been to my local dealer & a performance shop; neither can figure it. I'm at 61K
+Darvell La'Rick Powell If you have a flashing check engine light you need to see which code is set for which cylinder and concentrate on that one, then put motorcraft plug back in that cylinder and retest.
i had the same problem with my f150 .i replace all my plugs with ngk iridium and it fires in any condition .much better than oem
Definitely! I called Enerpulse about the issues & gave the same solution for the same issues as I remember for my previous car... my 2010 Taurus SHO. So i set the plug gaps to .025... same problem w/ less occurrence. I know there's mechanical spec difference between these engines, so i figure why not go for a smaller gap at .020... its working just as fine as my SHO did! I don't get why, but it is. Next is a CAI from Airaid & the ECU tune from Hennessey, the rear CDS rotors from Stoptech to match the front to slow me down as fast as i speed up!
FordTechMakuloco seems there are some other issues than these plugs... now that I've got the misfiring solved, now its idling funny & has stalled a couple times.
FordTechMakuloco My wife’s 2010 Lincoln MKT AWD 3.5 ecoboost with 85K began surging and and misfiring several months ago. The local Ford dealer said a “tune-up” was needed. The spark plugs were replaced and a coil boot was replaced as it was “dry rotted”. Car ran a little better, but the surging and misfiring continued. When returned to the dealer it took several hours of “technical research” to determine the problem. The ECM was reflashed. The misfire was basically cured, but the surging continued and the combined mileage dropped to 12.7 MPG. Car returned for the third time. After a day and a half the technician “could not replicate the surging”. The service writer suggested that the problem “might be the way my wife drove”. I told him we drove very differently and the problem was the same for both of us. I said I would come down and take the technician for a drive if he couldn’t replicate the problem. The technician remarkably was able to replicate the problem, but couldn’t “pull any codes”. We told them to keep the car until they figured it out. Any ideas about curing the surging?
performing the TSB basically reduces engine power and especially towing performance. The customer loses because they don't get the power that was advertised.The intercooler isn't too big it was designed to tow 11k lbs on the heat and still provide cool intake air so timing and power could be maintained. .Its insanity to block any portion of it which in turn also reduces the performance of the radiator, transmission cooling and air conditioning condenser.What Ford should have done is noticed this in testing, and either provided a hinged door that can open via a small air operated servo similar to a wastegate that stays closed due to spring pressure,until sufficient boost is generated, continous boost pressure forces the door open after a few seconds,giving the full area of the intercooler..a kit could be made up easily to do this, no electronics, very simple one hose off the intake, a small restrictor, and bleed hole to provide a delay so it only opens under close to max boost.If I owned one this is what I'd do...blocking the intercooler all the time is just wrong..
The new tsb's have you unblocking the intercooler and reflashing the pcm so they are getting there.
Maybe I missed it but you’re not covering what’s causing the cracking to begin with. I’ve been fighting this issue since 15’ with two different trucks. I’ve tried hotter, colder, different brands. I’ve had all six plugs crack immediately within seconds of starting the truck after replacing. The ones that last the least are the motorcrafts and NGK, but autolite typically lasts longer than the others. But will still crack one by one over the course of two to three months. I’m getting real sick of having to replace spark plugs. Really wish there was an actual fix for this.
FordTechMakuloco Hello, I have a 2012 Ford F150 3.5 V6 Ecoboost with 22,000 miles on it. I bought late October 2012. I havent had any misfires yet and I was watching this video. What do you recommend me to do to prevent this misfire and water collection and CAT damage? Should I take the truck to Ford to get a different Charger Cooler? Or leave the same charger cooler and get a catch can? If I need to put a catch can, which one do your recommend?
Good vid. I bought a used f150 with the ecoboost that had 80K miles. I started to have the misfire out of the blue. I knew that the 100K tune up was "close" so I changed the spark plugs. Are you recommending that I get those deflectors? Can u elaborate more on the cat converter issue? Once the plugs are changed should I still have to worry about it? Thanks.
If you don't have a humid or rainy day misfire then no do not get the deflectors they only hurt performance. As for the cat converter issue- The water droplets from the CAC get sent through the system and the way the intake manifold is designed they all go to bank 2 cylinders. Therefore you have multiple cylinders misfiring on the same bank sending raw fuel down to the cat. The cat is hot enough to burn it off, cat gets red hot and either plugs up or breaks apart from the extreme temps. The pcm does not see cat converting and thrown the P0430 codes, now you need a cat and they are only emissions warranty till 80k, so its a good idea to take care of misfires before they destroy the cats.
hddm3 On these Ford want the cats back so aint nobody making money on cats, which is unusual because Ford usually doesn't want the cats back, now Chrysler wants every cat back they warranty.
Had the air shield put on and the reflash done. Was good about 6 months I was trying to pass a car on the highway last week and the truck got a misfire. Cylinder 6. Swapped coils on 5 and 6 erased the code and restarted the truck got missfire on 5. So I got a new coil and all new motorcraft plugs. Now the truck shudders when I apply any heavy gas or try to pass another car. Today check Engine went on again. Cylinder 6. WtF!!!
Just a little bit of info, my 2011 just started misfiring on cyl. #3 while climbing a steep hill at highway speeds, that was repeatable over and over, eventually leading to the CEL staying on. I suspected the coil pack on that cylinder so i swapped the #3 coil pack with the #4 and sure enough the misfire went to the #4 cylinder. I ordered a new coil pack and changed all six plugs and its good as new again. I had already had the LH side Cat replaced as well as the updated CAC and Calibration. Just thought I would share my experience since it is a very simple way to troubleshoot!
Thanks for the info, yes we are starting to see coils go early on these as well.
Where can we buy the ac cooler covers. Great video BTW. I have exact same problems
Make one
I have a 2011 just changed the sparkplugs only cause I wanted to, they were basically new so if someone is having problems with the f150 is not me, my truck was running perfect before and is running perfect now, I think this problem does not happen very often
Will an after market intercooler help at all
If you dealing with yourself and trying to do the work your self how long or how many misfires ruins a cat? Doing a round of plugs today and trying figure out if I have the right stuff on the in cooler. Could just doing plugs fix the problem, I have no codes but on a autozone scan tool,
So is there now a solution to this issue in 2020? I'm having a misfire with my 2012
On the navigator the dealer said the grill has vents that are electronic, they open and close.
Is this correct to correct the water vapor issue?
changed my driver side turbo after 13 months having the 2013 ecoboost. (wastegate was screwed) sounded like a barking dog during hard acceleration and loss of power. Now my passenger side turbo is making the same sound and loss of power, bringing it in again.. so :(
Amazing information. Thank you so much for the time you take to make these videos
Great video man.
This will help and inform a lot of irritated people.
I bet!
would a blow off valve help the turbo maybe kick some of that moist air out?
NGK Iridium plugs call for a 0.038 thous gap... a "Tuned" truck with performance upgrades would require a smaller gap of closer to 0.030. I have heard of guys goping to a 0.028 gap, but it seems a bit to tight to me. Personally I have had no problems with my 2012 Ecobbost 3.5l ( only had lag and hesitation when I installed a K&N filter...it was so bad at times that I almost thought the truck was going to stall...swapped back to a new factory one & no more problems)
It may be tight but they wear so quick is the reason. Factory spec is .031"
I have a 2010 Taurus SHO with a misfire, I believe it’s already toasted my cat unfortunately but the misfire only happens at 4500 RPM or so. I’ve cleaned the CAC out, changed plugs, swapped coils, and checked compression (checked out good) and it still happens. What could this be? I would love your input on it as I just got this vehicle and have learned about the issues that plagues it. It has a code p0430 now that’s related to this misfire I believe.
What if you have a AB Intercooler? Also what causes the spark plugs to crack? My EcoBoost keeps cracking plugs quite often.
Do you think the 2010 v8 5.4
f150 might have the same issue with the charged air cooler?
a friend of mine that works at a ford dealer. is a chevy man. with a fast race car. i ask him why he works on fords. " the OEM fords need the most repairs."
Would this also cause my trucks idle to jump up and down about 200 to 300 RPM's. I took it into the dealership and the reflashed everything and said that should fix it. It did not. Have you heard of this before? Thanks.
This will not fix the idle issue. That is almost always a bad throttle body or vacuum leak on these.
Weep hole and Catch Can=Fix
remove turbo=fix too.
@@crisprtalk6963 but no powa
Thank you so much! My truck has been to many dealers because of misfire.
Yeah it is an ongoing issue as we are all learning the faults that come with age on the new ecoboost engines.
Should the condensation issue still be present on a 2014 Ecoboost f150? Or is my misfire most likely caused by a spark plug issue?
I just bought new motorcraft sp-534 plugs and it says right on the box not to adjust the gap?
+motodrummer No matter what you want to at least check the gap and if need be adjust it. These plus are used on multiple models so the gap is very general. Not to mention Ford back peddled and changed the spec.
what did they change the spec to?
.028 (28 thousandths) Atleast that's what I seen on his video from 2014. Double check.
I have the 1.6L ecoboost in my wife's Escape. Have you noticed this carbon tracking with all of Ford's turbo motors or just the 3.5L? We haven't had any problems with the engine missing yet, but it's only got 7800 miles on it. If I can do preventive maintenance and upgrade plugs to avoid the problem, I will. Easy fix if that's all it is. I never bought the 100k mile plug theory anyway. Yeah, it'll run okay for that long with the new high energy ignitions and coil-on-plug, but nowhere near peak performance. In my newer model rides, I've been doing them about every 30k miles with good results. I attribute the above average gas mileage I tend to get to that practice along with frequent oil changes, because I've never babied my cars.
I have seen this on a 2013 fusion with the same engine in it 1.6l GTDI low mileage so it is possible as long as it is boosted it seems. I just changed plugs on my 2012 explorer 2.0l GTDI they all looked good no sign of it.
I have a 2011 3.5L ecoboost with 96000 miles. I have a misfire on cylinder 4 and both cats are bad. I replaced all the sparkplugs and moved the coils to different cylinders yet nothing has worked. what do you recommend I do next? The truck has trouble going up hills and stumbles when accelerating hard.
It's funny that people who never have run a boosted engine are discovering how much a pain they can be. For instance I ran 30 pounds of boost on my evo for years. I religiously change, and re-gap my plugs every 6 months. It's almost like they are freaking out when the gap wear gets too big lol. Re-gap them, or if they are bit old get rid of them and go with a fresh set. Also forget iridiums or platinums. Just use coppers with big ground straps (if available). FYI platinums are a worse conductor than copper, iridiums aren't worth the money and are harder to gap. Intercooler design is also obviously garbage. Honestly these problems are very simple to me. However I live with this on a daily basis for the last decade.
Of course copper has always been the premium conductor just doesn't wear long. One thing I do notice is the other ecoboost engines from Ford do not have any of these issues excewpt for a rare carbon tracking issue here and there. All of the problems are on the F150 maybe they just get run harder. Even the 3.5L Ecoboost in the Taurus SHO has none of these problems runs great tons of power never need a re gap for performance reasons anyway.
Taurus isn't a 5000 pound vehicle either. Anyone who thinks an iridium plug will be ok for 100,000 miles on a heavy vehicle with a boosted engine for all the consumers is crazy.
Do you have a video that addresses oil/fuel dilution, In the 3.5 ecoboost, I have lean codes with pegged negative fuel trims, overfilled oil smelling like gas and goes normal when I disconnect the pc valve.
I remember watching the torture rest videos with mike rowe, i believe something like this should of came up. they froze the engine on a stand FFS.
Yup I remember watching that video. Wearing down of the plugs I understand on a turbo engine, cracking of the plugs and carbon tracking shouldn't be happening.
In a way I'm not surprised. They torture tested this, but I'd think 80% of the owners' engines won't see that kind of heat. Maybe the large intercooler should have been an upgrade with a towing package. If the charge air doesn't get hot enough to rid any excess condensation, then we have this problem.. I think it's more of prolonged under-heating of this platform... = "Soccer-mom" syndrome.
True true
Ha soccer mom syndrome.. requires the occasional Italian tune up, driving like you stole it
Ive been considering a 2014 Ford Taurus SEL AWD, but i hear there is a serious issue with timing belt stretching. Has that issue been resolved or addressed by Ford. Should i be looking at a different car or should the 2014 Taurus be okay.
Thanks
What is your take on drilling the 1/8" or 1/16" hole in the lowest point of the plastic intercooler outlet? I haven't done it but I've seen it done. I have mixed emotions on wether it's a good idea. Was hoping with your experience you would be able to give me some insight.
I would not go 1/8 that will give you to much boost leak
I experienced misfires with my 2012 F150 EcoBoost at about 75k. I checked of six plugs and the Gap was 43. it should be 33 or 32. I replace the plugs. no more misfires.
+Tom Abts .028" is best
FordTechMakuloco the book that came with the truck states 33. I guess they could have changed the gapping since 2012.
yes Ford revised the spec down to .028" I still have access to the Ford Dealer site that is constantly updated to the latest specs.
What's the number on the spark plug for 35 2013 f150 EcoBoost
i just bought a 2011 3.5 ecoboost last week with 58k miles.i had one misfire this week.but since i got it.i been driving it aggressively
to check it out,could that have been the issue of the one misfire.also.if i put a grill on the bumper would that be any help??
+Kriminal919 The misfire is either from the plugs being out of spec or the charge air cooler full of water. If you put a grill on that lower section it should have no effect on it.
+FordTechMakuloco im buying truck next week. 2016 ecoboost 3.5 or 5.0 mustang GT whats your honest opnion on both cars. Should i even buy a ecoboost 3.5? I love the power and tow often but maybe i shoul get the 5.0 motor? im also consideriong a GT premium track pack
I have heard of cracked porcelain on the Ecoboost engine too...do you think that water from the CAC hitting a hot spark plug could cause that?
I am considering purchasing a preowned 2011 ecoboost F150. Is there any way that I can check under the hood and see visually if these things have been taken care of? And in your opinion, would buying the first model year of that engine be a good idea?
+Phillip Merlino 2011 has its issues for sure most didn't get rectified until 2013. Things like the vacuum pumps and intercoolers cause some major repair bills. Best thing to do is drive it make sure it is solid ask for repair history and then follow my videos on the ecoboost problems to fix the know issues before they become big issues. Unless it is high mileage these issues likely have not been addressed.
hey Brian,I would like to be a mechanic,I don't think it would be that hard for me to be it because I'm mechanically incline,and knowledgeable about cars,but still learning,what is the best way to get it based on your experience?? thanks
The best way to get a job as a mechanic is to goto a technical school or community college auto program and work at a shop like pepboys or similar at the same time.
+FordTechMakuloco ok thanks
Good morning. Do you have an update for this TSB? I am having this same issue for my 2011 F150 EcoBoost
I have a 13 f150 ecoboost with 22,000 miles. It just started this rough idle and when taking off it hesitates. Well when it had 5,000 miles on it, I installed a 4 inch solo performance exhaust (catback) and an AFE dual cold air intake. Ran great, lots of power till now. Took it to dealer, They are saying because of the modifications, that's whats causing my issues! Its not, I read numerous posts of people having this issue. Because I'm a woman, they must think I'm stupid. Any suggestions what I should do? Oh and the filters on the cold air intake are clean. They tried to tell me to clean them HA!
+windy Ogle Trade it and get yourself a Tundra. Man Drives His Toyota Tundra for One Million Miles www.yahoo.com/news/man-drives-toyota-tundra-one-million-miles-170018109.html
Catch can, and clean map sensors,all 3 of them
Buy a Dodge
Well...I would have been happy with that answer a year and a half ago, so will tuners get around this? I'm usually not on the road long enough to warm it up in time for the Rpm's to drop. And my commute is highway
I am sure there are tuners out there already now whether than can get around it and that part of the software is encrypted I am not sure. If you are going on that short of trips this is a good thing, other wise you are going to be getting acid in the engine from all the condensation of the short trips.
Hey, Im interested in the tune they are putting on with the TSB. My 2011, at about 45k went in with this issue, I live in Texas and this happens over a year ago, happened really bad and often. The put on the deflector and retuned, and the problem was back within a week. I eventually pulled the plugs and re-gapped the, shrinking the gap down smaller. This cured it for about a year, now at 62k its back. But one of the biggest thing I noticed was the 2mpg drop with the tune. Anyone else get worse MPG after the TSB re-tune? driving style has not changed and I went from 17.5 avg mpg to 16.5 over the year after the re-tune. I really want the pre-TSB tune back. I'm considering changing the plugs and going with an aftermarket tune.
That would be my suggestion a tune and gap them at .028"
FordTechMakuloco I just wanted to follow up and say my check engine code was saying misfire on cylinder #2. I pulled #2's plug and sure enough, the porcelain was cracked and I had carbon tracking. The gap was also too wide at .04x I decided to replace them all with motorcraft SP-534, all we're checked and pre gapped at .032. What a big difference. Misfire completely gone, power is much smoother, feels stronger, and best yet I'm averaging 19.9mpg. Guys...check your plugs! Intercooler sucking water doesn't seem to be an issue but has the same symptoms. When it was sucking water I think it did a number on the plugs. I plan to just replace these every 50k. Plugs we're only $6.00 from the dealer. Should I narrow the plugs even more to .028?
Nah especially if you installed them already.
So I have a 16 f150 3.5 ecoboost 108k miles and I’m having a hard time with diagnostics. My is cracking spark plugs every week I have to replace the plugs literally every week