Great tips, I’ll add a critical tip; DO NOT loosen the bolts for the oil line flange that bolt to the bottom of turbo until AFTER you remove the upper coolant line and it drains completely even if you think it’s drained from the radiator hose, it’s not and you’ll be draining that all back out of your oil pan.
I'm not a mechanic in any way. I just finished swapping both turbos on my 2013 3.5l. A few tips if you decide to do this. First, I've only done this once on one truck. However , the T 47 bolts were actually T 50. When installing, definitely get all the bolts in before you tighten any of them. You need the play to get many of them in. Last tip, if you can afford it, take it to the shop. It took me 14 hrs, and my hands look like I fought a cheese grater. Great video tho definitely helped me!
@@osmanrangel5587 I bought a kit that had 4 small picks. I would get longer ones next time. Mine were only 6" if you can find maybe 10" it would be easier.
to all the HATERS out there...my 2014 f-150's turbo just went out an my truck has ...328,492 miles on it so they ill last an still keep ticking....fingers crossed ill get another 3k out of her.....thanks to your this vid man great job
Honestly there was nothing easy about this twin turbo replacement job. 22hrs to replace both turbos, replace and upgrade to stainless coolant lines, flush radiator, oil change, brake fluid flush, front/rear differential gear oil change. Don't forget the Ford Motorcraft friction Modifier. 4oz per differential. Next month we will do the tranny fluid flush, transaxle fluid flush, PCV valve replacement. The most difficult part of this job was the coolant lines between the firewall and engine. I still have bruises and cuts on my arms. Thanks for the great video and information. Whoever at Ford designed the POS springs that hold in the coolant lines needs to be hung and shot. At the very least they could have put a tab to grab with needle nose instead of a dental pick. The easy part of the job was getting the air out of the radiator. Piece of cake. The Exhaust bolts I recommend soaking in break free for a week/month before you do this job. Soak them bools down like a $2 whore. Use a couple of cans!
I just used PB Blaster for the bolts in which two of them broke. Very fun drilling those out so I can re-tap them.. and yes, about the coolant line.. he definitely needs to be hung by his balls 😡 had to replace mine by the time I got it out.. with that said the engine does have +250k miles
Lol I understand the difficulty. I did this job but on a 2020 and a 2021 Ford Transit twin turbo eco boost. Had to swap both turbos on both trucks. Definitely one of the most frustrating jobs I've done. I remember the anti freeze and oil always dripping on my face like the Chinese water torture. Most cuss words used out of any job I had for sure.
Outstanding explanations for disassembly. As a tech, I always like to see what other folks are into. I have a 2018 EB and I appreciate what you have done here. Some day both my son, (2012 EB) and i may have to do this. Thanks
I think we all can appreciate videos like this helping little guys who are not afraid to take on jobs like this with great information from videos like this. Thank you for taking time to make video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hey what were your symptoms? I've got a 2012. I believe one of my turbos is going out. I could hear the turbo bearing kinda screaming one day and power was going in and out(I'm sure loss of oil to it as ive seen a wet leak at that turbo) . My truck normally would stay in 6th gear and pull up small hills easily. Now it stays in 5th and goes all way down to 3rd to get up hills. You can feel the turbos kick in and out and it will throw you back in the seat if it's in 3rd gear when they kick back in. Check engine light coming on and going way. Then Sunday I finally got a wrench. Had to pull over as it lost all power. I turned it off then went to crank. It took a little longer to crank then started up, drove fine again for a bit. Then last night driving I got a wrench again. Turned off then recranked. Drove fine again.
@@regularguyfixes3142 definitely get diagnostic but really could be turbos and not expensive change i bought a 2017 with 140k miles on it i guess owner before problem but there also small turbos and rated for 150k miles and once fixed not a problem since
Nice video. Very Helpful . You even showed an old dog a new trick on the double nutting to remove the studs. No idea why I never thought of it. Thanks Jerry
I did this over the weekend and it wasn't easy, but I was successful. Now after driving it to work, it started smoking. its blue smoke and it does stop after a while of driving. What I've read, it appears to be the turbo went bad. Have you ever ran into this before. BTW thanks for the video, it really helped me. I have a 2013 F150 3.5 ecoboost. Update: I put the oil return gasket on backwards.
@@birneymoore3649if your fast and have Done a few probably could do it in a few hours if not probably take a solid day by the time you get it all buttoned back up and on the ground
Great video One thing everyone should do is replace the oil feed screens, it requires removing the oil line when you remove the turbo. It gets clogged when you change the oil at the recommended mileage by Ford...
Good job with your video man, there is a few videos out there but yours is the best, I just change the turbo on the driver side of my eco boost (2011), and I couldn’t do it without watching your video. Thank you.
Wow, I just found this video after my left side turbo had an oil leak and I had the Stearlership replace it and it cost $2K, luckily I had an extended warranty !
Thanks sooooo... much for the helpful video! Had the dreaded turbo coolant fitting leak on my 2012 f150. I was able to knck it out in a little over a day. Only trouble I ran into was the (3) turbo to manifold bolts stripped when removed. I picked up some new bolts from my local Ford dealer and was able to slowly tap the manifold threads back to normal. Thanks again for your very useful videos...Subscribed:)
I have a 2017 Expedition with a 3.5 litter engine. I had both driver and passenger leaks. I started with the passenger. You will need a really good light, preferably with a rotating magnet. Remove negative battery cable. Jack up car, jack stands for safety, removed the upper inner wheel well...lots of plastic tabs and 5.5 mm socket...maybe even 8 mm...or 10 mm. Remove the engine plastic tabs closest to the front of the car. I also removed one of the air intakes that leads to the turbo and loosened the other one to have more turbo wiggle room later. I had both turbo fittings leaking. I half took off the turbo. Changed both while off. I removed 3 nuts off starter, not the electrical connections. I removed the 2 exhaust bolts. I removed the 3 manifold bolts. You will need to get the 3 manifold bolts and the triangular manifold gasket if you don't want to reuse the old ones. I got 3 manifold bolts and the gasket. Remove the 2 bolts to the oil line. I did not fully removed it. I was able to wiggle the turbo loose to where I could change both turbo fittings. Wear gloves if you don't want finger cuts when handling the exhaust part of the turbo. You will need a 3/8ths 45 torx and 50 torx. Also long extensions and a wobble extensions...and universal joint sockets, both 3/8 and 1/2 inch.... They helped. Be careful with the brake lines as they are near when wiggling the turbo out. Once everything was loose I removed the tang with a long pick from both sides of the turbo. I used a pry bar to gently wiggle both lines out of where it sat. Be patient. I am a novice and it took 1.5 days to do the passenger side. Breaks here and there. The best of luck! Tomorrow I will do the easy side...the drivers side. I only have 1 fitting leaking, closest to the wheel well. So that should take me an hour or so.
You will need 1 long pry bar to get the coolant line back into the inner turbo side and 2 pry bars to get the coolant line closest to the outer side of the wheel...one to push it down, the other to align it in place. I put 1 pry bar up against the exhaust manifold for centering while the other pry bar pressed down it into place...both fittings with the tangs in place.
By chance. There is suppose to be a strainer screen somewaher close to both turbochargers. My brother said they easily clog and starve the new turbo of oil. Any clue where the screens are? We could not find them
Wondering whether to replace the turbo oil and coolant pipes on my 3.5L 2016. The exhaust manifold studs tend to go (turbo's weight and vibration are hanging on one stud) and the exhaust gasket can vibrate like a reed: can sound just like a squalling bearing or bushing. If that's what is happening, might be worth upgrading the exhaust manifolds (similar conditions on both sides, so if one has gone the other won't be long. Maybe do both sides so you don't have to go back in). Planning on using the SD Diesel manifolds; thicker, with longer studs.
Wish I would have watched this before pulling both turbos. 😂😂 great video and well detailed. Thank you. Those coolant lines suck if you don’t pull those clips
Great video, thorough explanation and walkthrough. I’m mainly a GM tech but just had a 2014 Ecoboost roll into the shop with a blown turbo. Wanted to see how others went after it, this video was a nice help 👍🏼
Its interesting that ford got rid of the turbo mounting brackets on the next gen Eco, definitely makes lining things up easier. Also idk what they were thinking with the hard coolant lines they are a pain in the ass to force into place.
Very informative, very straight forward well shot video. And clarity of the whole proceedure. Thank you for your expertise. Very well done. Jj canchola.
on the wider pipe that connects to the air box, there is a small hard hose/pipe that connects to this pipe and what I believe to be the turbo actuator, after looking up the part number on it. this has broken off of the bigger pipe that connects to the airbox, that also looks gunky on the inside of the line. what is the name of this hose? it has caused some throttle body codes (first inspection there may be a bigger cause to the codes), and I want to start the diagnoses by replacing that hose/line.
When I did this I found it was easiest to just pull the exhaust down. I also struggled with the forward pointing coolant line, since the new one was just $19 I cut it and replaced it.
The shops I have talked to REQUIRE the replacement of the cooling lines at the same time. I have no unusual sounds or negative performance just antifreeze and oil leaks. Would you use aftermarket turbos, remans or new Ford? I would appreciate your input.
So why did you take it out in the first place...just out of curiosity or was this just a how to? Or did I miss something? Good vid man. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video, I wish I didn't live in the rust belt so everything comes apart that easily lol every bolt broke even with heating the bolt housing with oxy acetylene they sheered off. Lots of drilling turned out to be a fun 2 day project but fun just the same lol😂
Too late for you but for others, answer is hold the gas pedal all the way down pinned to the floor while you start the truck. Prevents fueling so the starter turns the engine and thus oil pump while it cranks. Hold gas pedal down for a good 7-10 count then release and truck will start.
I'm about to replace both turbos on a 2013, it calls for 4hrs left side and 6.5 hrs right side but it seems to be relatively easy. Considering I just did a head gasket and a piston on a mercedes C230. These turbos are a much more straight forward job.
Just thought I'd tune in to see how you go about this and what's involved with it. I'd imagine it would be similar on my 2010 Lincoln MKS, just probably a little tighter to get into. I'll crawl under there and have a closer look now that I know exactly what to change. Though with 120K miles I'll probably just dish out the dough to replace the whole unit rather than just a few gaskets and seals.
@@memolopes1044 I actually have not touched the turbos in all this time... surprisingly. Currently at 165k miles and there's more oil caked up on the outside of the one turbo that was leaking then, just recently knocked some of it off, but still nothing major and the car still functions just fine, so I don't really wanna mess with anything there. I'd say if you have the time and the space, go for it, I would. I recently changed one of my cats fully exposing the turbo and didn't look TOO too bad to tackle if I had to.
My 2015 ecoturd has 111,000 miles with 5400+ engine idol hours I am having to change the drivers side turbo due to a bearing whistle sound. your video is super helpful. I did not know about the coolant drain part had I not watched this video. GOt any tips for the 4x4 vacuum system and the wheel bearing noise it makes, mine always has a wawawa sound then when i shift into 4x4 it goes away.
I had that 4x4 issue on my 2015... there was a vacuum leak in the hub assembly so the hub had to be replaced. Took it to the dealer 5 times about the issue before they fixed it.
Daniel Hucklebridge hello. My oil change regiment is 5k and I use mobile 1. Also found out it wasn’t the turbos it was an exhaust manifold and it’s not completely fixed. Had to take it to the dealership.
When I dropped the turbo a little bit of the left coolant probably went into the oil line at the bottom? Is this a problem or just changing the oil will do? Thanks
What sizes are the Torx for the oil/coolant manifold at the base of the Turbo? Exhaust Torx Sizes? Was going to grab some 3/8 impact rated ahead of time. Looks like the downpipe bolts are 15mm, maybe a flex socket / intermediate? They are soaking with some ATF/Acetone mix to make it easier. Thanks in advance
I'm having an issue with removing the turbocharger on the passenger side. I removed the clip on that oil line fitting but the turbo won't pull away from line. Like it's stuck in fitting. That is the only thing holding the turbo up at the moment
depends on the problem, fins shouldnt be bent, or chipped. small chips arent necessarily too bad, just means it ate something, and there may be a larger problem in the engine. there should be almost no visible play if you wiggle the turbo shaft, no leaks, should spin freely.
@@MtnWBassin depends on the whistle, if you exclude a normal boost sound, I'd say boost or intake leak, possible a shift issue, while not always, those usually are more of a whine. Check the wastegate too
Son just got a new to him 2014 FX4 just found out drivers side Turbo is leaking dealer gave us a 30 day warranty hoping they do the repair correctly and not skip any steps, do they rebuild the turbo or replace the turbo and should they do the passenger side also since that is at 123K miles and most likely will start leaking also ? Thanks and great video
My coolant line will not pop in the fitting after installing the nrlew one from ford. If i do not install the fitting and push it on the line it works but after install it will not
How did test my turbos see if that’s my problem. I’ve had trouble with my driver side turbo. I just put a new one on one year ago now I have error code P0299. I just changed out the boost control it did not fix my problem. Error code still keeps coming up. I did the 10 point check all of those things look great. My turbo is not rattling like it did the first time please help any advice would be greatly appreciate it.
I noticed an oil leak on my 14 eco 3.5. Researched and decided to tackle the vacuum pump. Replaced it, but noticed afterwards the burning oil smell still happening, and it’s coming from the gasket on the turbo. Do you think that could be remnants from the oil leaking from the above vacuum pump, or is there something that would cause the gasket area on the turbo to be smoking?
my turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust thus fouling my O2 sensor.. do i need to replace entire turbo? if not what do i need to replace to stop the leaking of oil...thanks Mike
Great vid, thanks. 1 problem that I have come across is the upper coolant tube. Yes you can rotate it upwards to get it out of the way but there is a good chance that it leaks at the back side of the cylinder head when you are all done. Pain in the ass on that year engine as the brake vacuum pump is mounted on the back side of that head and it needs to be removed to replace fitting. Replace that fitting now as it will save you some grief later. The lower coolant line has a bracket attached to it so there is hardly any chance of the fitting leaking on the other end of the line which is behind the A/C compressor.
What was the reason for the service and what was the total time of the job. I'm considering buying a Lincoln MKS with ecoboost. Good idea? Bad idea? Interested in your opinion. Thanks
I’m getting ready to replace my turbo. Have a question. I don’t have a torch but want to make sure I can crack those exhaust bolts off charger. Would a regular propane torch be hot enough to get those cracked loose?
The coolant is leaking from the turbo charger. What do you recommend? Did you actually replace the turbo charger or did you just replace the bolts to stop the leak?
How can you reach the connector at the back of the engine .... its very diffciult to access there i remeove the uper intake but still not room any video to help
Purchased 2 brand new turbos wanted to verify the waistgate was working on my original turbos and neither one of them moved one side held vacuum but the lever never moved the other did not hold vacuum. I got 2 new turbos in an i tried to verify waistgate lever action on them and neither one moved they both hold vacuum any ideas its a 2016 F150 3.5. Just curious...
I have a high mileage truck "210k". At idle the driver side turbo sounds like a bucket of rocks, and under acceleration the wastegate is very noisey. Will be parking it soon to investigate further.
Not sure if this is a diy type job for me but the cost to pay dealer gives me long pause. When reinstalling top exhaust flanges with turbo and the air intakes at top you mentioned to make sure they’re done first. How hard is it to make sure it’s aligned properly so proper torque is done?
I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot the password. I love any help you can offer me!
@Zane Jordy thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Super helpful video and follow up on all the comments. I’m an occasional DYIer but I only have one vehicle so can’t afford to not having it working the next day. A nondealership mechanic just quoted me $7500 to do both turbos on my ‘13 F150 3.5L Eco. Question: 1) Do I really need to replace both (like the mechanic says? 2) Should I get all new parts like mechanic is telling me (except gaskets of course) 3) How much should I really be paying to have this done? Sounds like I should get a second beater car and try this myself. Thoughts?
Behind the brake pedal, there’s a cut out circle in the insulation. Pull that back there’s a rubber grommet that’s how you access the bolt closest to the firewall.
@@donw22 that’s interested I was doing the passenger side they make it where you have to pull the studs to get the turbo in out vs sliding the exhaust coupler off the studs and out of the way. The nuts weren’t bad at all to get out though
Great tips, I’ll add a critical tip;
DO NOT loosen the bolts for the oil line flange that bolt to the bottom of turbo until AFTER you remove the upper coolant line and it drains completely even if you think it’s drained from the radiator hose, it’s not and you’ll be draining that all back out of your oil pan.
I'm not a mechanic in any way. I just finished swapping both turbos on my 2013 3.5l. A few tips if you decide to do this. First, I've only done this once on one truck. However , the T 47 bolts were actually T 50. When installing, definitely get all the bolts in before you tighten any of them. You need the play to get many of them in. Last tip, if you can afford it, take it to the shop. It took me 14 hrs, and my hands look like I fought a cheese grater. Great video tho definitely helped me!
the hands 🤣
Bro you replacing your own turbo not being a mechanic is commendable
He ain't lying@@kevinmccalla5135
I need help how did you take off the clip on the feed line ( 4:33 )? Im trying to take off the turbo myself but my issue is taking this feed line off
@@osmanrangel5587 I bought a kit that had 4 small picks. I would get longer ones next time. Mine were only 6" if you can find maybe 10" it would be easier.
to all the HATERS out there...my 2014 f-150's turbo just went out an my truck has ...328,492 miles on it so they ill last an still keep ticking....fingers crossed ill get another 3k out of her.....thanks to your this vid man great job
Update bro? Mines has 250k
Mine too. 2014 with 343K+ miles, the ticking started not too long ago. Need to replace gaskets so I can keep going. These videos save me $$$.
Honestly there was nothing easy about this twin turbo replacement job. 22hrs to replace both turbos, replace and upgrade to stainless coolant lines, flush radiator, oil change, brake fluid flush, front/rear differential gear oil change. Don't forget the Ford Motorcraft friction Modifier. 4oz per differential. Next month we will do the tranny fluid flush, transaxle fluid flush, PCV valve replacement. The most difficult part of this job was the coolant lines between the firewall and engine. I still have bruises and cuts on my arms. Thanks for the great video and information. Whoever at Ford designed the POS springs that hold in the coolant lines needs to be hung and shot. At the very least they could have put a tab to grab with needle nose instead of a dental pick. The easy part of the job was getting the air out of the radiator. Piece of cake. The Exhaust bolts I recommend soaking in break free for a week/month before you do this job. Soak them bools down like a $2 whore. Use a couple of cans!
I just used PB Blaster for the bolts in which two of them broke. Very fun drilling those out so I can re-tap them.. and yes, about the coolant line.. he definitely needs to be hung by his balls 😡 had to replace mine by the time I got it out.. with that said the engine does have +250k miles
😂😂😂😂😂😂
Lol I understand the difficulty. I did this job but on a 2020 and a 2021 Ford Transit twin turbo eco boost. Had to swap both turbos on both trucks. Definitely one of the most frustrating jobs I've done. I remember the anti freeze and oil always dripping on my face like the Chinese water torture. Most cuss words used out of any job I had for sure.
Outstanding explanations for disassembly. As a tech, I always like to see what other folks are into. I have a 2018 EB and I appreciate what you have done here. Some day both my son, (2012 EB) and i may have to do this. Thanks
I think we all can appreciate videos like this helping little guys who are not afraid to take on jobs like this with great information from videos like this.
Thank you for taking time to make video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Literally saves me time after time with these Ecoboost videos. Part of being nervous is not knowing. He explains it clearly every time.
Great video. You convinced me that I need to take my 2012 F150 to the dealer to have my turbo fixed. Thanks. ;)
Hey what were your symptoms? I've got a 2012. I believe one of my turbos is going out. I could hear the turbo bearing kinda screaming one day and power was going in and out(I'm sure loss of oil to it as ive seen a wet leak at that turbo) . My truck normally would stay in 6th gear and pull up small hills easily. Now it stays in 5th and goes all way down to 3rd to get up hills. You can feel the turbos kick in and out and it will throw you back in the seat if it's in 3rd gear when they kick back in. Check engine light coming on and going way. Then Sunday I finally got a wrench. Had to pull over as it lost all power. I turned it off then went to crank. It took a little longer to crank then started up, drove fine again for a bit. Then last night driving I got a wrench again. Turned off then recranked. Drove fine again.
Yea eff that
What did dealer charge?
@@SolomanTiger too much
@@regularguyfixes3142 definitely get diagnostic but really could be turbos and not expensive change i bought a 2017 with 140k miles on it i guess owner before problem but there also small turbos and rated for 150k miles and once fixed not a problem since
Nice video. Very Helpful . You even showed an old dog a new trick on the double nutting to remove the studs. No idea why I never thought of it. Thanks Jerry
My man! Knowledge is infinite and learning is a process. Great instructions and detailed.
I did this over the weekend and it wasn't easy, but I was successful. Now after driving it to work, it started smoking. its blue smoke and it does stop after a while of driving. What I've read, it appears to be the turbo went bad. Have you ever ran into this before. BTW thanks for the video, it really helped me. I have a 2013 F150 3.5 ecoboost.
Update: I put the oil return gasket on backwards.
I have a 2014 am about to do same job. Oil leak 118000 mi Should I not think about putting new turbos on?
What would be a average time to do this repair?
@@birneymoore3649if your fast and have Done a few probably could do it in a few hours if not probably take a solid day by the time you get it all buttoned back up and on the ground
Never done it but that all depends on how good you are with tools this to me looks like it woukd take 3 hours tops in mt garage @birneymoore3649
Thanks for the update!!
Great video
One thing everyone should do is replace the oil feed screens, it requires removing the oil line when you remove the turbo. It gets clogged when you change the oil at the recommended mileage by Ford...
Those filters are cheap, $30, good advice
Good job with your video man, there is a few videos out there but yours is the best, I just change the turbo on the driver side of my eco boost (2011), and I couldn’t do it without watching your video. Thank you.
Did you find the driver side was much different? How long did it take?
Great job!!! That was the best repair tutorial I’ve ever seen! Thank you!
Wow, I just found this video after my left side turbo had an oil leak and I had the Stearlership replace it and it cost $2K, luckily I had an extended warranty !
Great breakdown and walkthrough on steps required to remove and replace the turbo. Getting ready to attempt myself today, so was helpful to see.
How did it go?
Any Update on how your DIY went?
Great video brother. Everyone is putting on these spd adapters and having problems pulling the studs. I think your way is the best way.
Thank you!
Thanks sooooo... much for the helpful video! Had the dreaded turbo coolant fitting leak on my 2012 f150. I was able to knck it out in a little over a day. Only trouble I ran into was the (3) turbo to manifold bolts stripped when removed. I picked up some new bolts from my local Ford dealer and was able to slowly tap the manifold threads back to normal. Thanks again for your very useful videos...Subscribed:)
My dad is about to buy a 3.5 and I'll be the one fixing it so that's why I'm here lol, hopefully he gets a 5.0🤞🏼
Tell him to get a 5.0. This coming from an ecoboost owner.
Seriously.
@@tagle2818amen I hope to god he didn’t buy the 3.5, coming from a 3.5 owner.
Coming from an Ecoboost 3.5 owner
Tell him to get the 5.0
I have a 2017 Expedition with a 3.5 litter engine. I had both driver and
passenger leaks. I started with the passenger. You will need a really
good light, preferably with a rotating magnet. Remove negative battery
cable. Jack up car, jack stands for safety, removed the upper inner
wheel well...lots of plastic tabs and 5.5 mm socket...maybe even 8
mm...or 10 mm. Remove the engine plastic tabs closest to the front of
the car. I also removed one of the air intakes that leads to the turbo
and loosened the other one to have more turbo wiggle room later. I had
both turbo fittings leaking. I half took off the turbo. Changed both
while off. I removed 3 nuts off starter, not the electrical connections.
I removed the 2 exhaust bolts. I removed the 3 manifold bolts. You will
need to get the 3 manifold bolts and the triangular manifold gasket if
you don't want to reuse the old ones. I got 3 manifold bolts and the
gasket. Remove the 2 bolts to the oil line. I did not fully removed it. I
was able to wiggle the turbo loose to where I could change both turbo
fittings. Wear gloves if you don't want finger cuts when handling the
exhaust part of the turbo. You will need a 3/8ths 45 torx and 50 torx.
Also long extensions and a wobble extensions...and universal joint
sockets, both 3/8 and 1/2 inch.... They helped. Be careful with the
brake lines as they are near when wiggling the turbo out. Once
everything was loose I removed the tang with a long pick from both sides
of the turbo. I used a pry bar to gently wiggle both lines out of where
it sat. Be patient. I am a novice and it took 1.5 days to do the
passenger side. Breaks here and there. The best of luck! Tomorrow I will
do the easy side...the drivers side. I only have 1 fitting leaking,
closest to the wheel well. So that should take me an hour or so.
You will need 1 long pry bar to get the coolant line back into the inner turbo side and 2 pry bars to get the coolant line closest to the outer side of the wheel...one to push it down, the other to align it in place. I put 1 pry bar up against the exhaust manifold for centering while the other pry bar pressed down it into place...both fittings with the tangs in place.
Very informative and generous video. Working class ecoboost owners thank you.
Great video, bud. Simple, informative, and right to the point. Subscribed & liked. Keep it up, man.
By chance. There is suppose to be a strainer screen somewaher close to both turbochargers. My brother said they easily clog and starve the new turbo of oil. Any clue where the screens are? We could not find them
Yes. I would like to know this answer as well.
Wondering whether to replace the turbo oil and coolant pipes on my 3.5L 2016.
The exhaust manifold studs tend to go (turbo's weight and vibration are hanging on one stud) and the exhaust gasket can vibrate like a reed: can sound just like a squalling bearing or bushing. If that's what is happening, might be worth upgrading the exhaust manifolds (similar conditions on both sides, so if one has gone the other won't be long.
Maybe do both sides so you don't have to go back in). Planning on using the SD Diesel manifolds; thicker, with longer studs.
Nice. Im a mechanic myself and that was 👌
Wish I would have watched this before pulling both turbos. 😂😂 great video and well detailed. Thank you. Those coolant lines suck if you don’t pull those clips
Great video, thorough explanation and walkthrough. I’m mainly a GM tech but just had a 2014 Ecoboost roll into the shop with a blown turbo. Wanted to see how others went after it, this video was a nice help 👍🏼
Hello What engine a 2.7 or 3.5 ? Can use the waste gate actuator . Thank you
Great video, 102 K miles and I have the bearing whistling sound too, Replacing both just in case
Its interesting that ford got rid of the turbo mounting brackets on the next gen Eco, definitely makes lining things up easier. Also idk what they were thinking with the hard coolant lines they are a pain in the ass to force into place.
Team Neudimensions
Agreed, I just did this on a 2011 F150. There’s one more bolt behind the turbo holding it on. Real pain to get to.
Still running good? @@iap6647
Very helpful video, I wish you could work on my F-150
and yes i really liked your video on removal of turbo..mine is the left side though...again thanks for a very detailed video...mike
Outstanding video, really enjoyed your attention to detail. Just replaced driver side turbo on my 2014 3.5l EB and it helped alot watching this.
I am about to change the turbo on the driver side of my 2017. What was the sign that your turbo was going out?
How did you remove the air intake going into the turbo, I feel like it’s extremely hard to pull out even after loosening the clamps.
@@Headbustaturkeycalls no warning at all
@@zapanimate it will come out with some effort
Nice explanation of a very technical job.
Good video I always replace oil line while in there
Very informative, very straight forward well shot video. And clarity of the whole proceedure. Thank you for your expertise. Very well done. Jj canchola.
Thanks for the video. Just wanted to see what I’m up for . a lot of helpful steps from you. Thank you.
Super helpful and concise, good work!
on the wider pipe that connects to the air box, there is a small hard hose/pipe that connects to this pipe and what I believe to be the turbo actuator, after looking up the part number on it. this has broken off of the bigger pipe that connects to the airbox, that also looks gunky on the inside of the line. what is the name of this hose? it has caused some throttle body codes (first inspection there may be a bigger cause to the codes), and I want to start the diagnoses by replacing that hose/line.
Thank you, I wish I had you to work on my vehicles
When I did this I found it was easiest to just pull the exhaust down. I also struggled with the forward pointing coolant line, since the new one was just $19 I cut it and replaced it.
Is it still good? No leaks?
Great instructional video I’m getting ready to replace turbos on my 2015 3.5 eco.
How many miles?
The shops I have talked to REQUIRE the replacement of the cooling lines at the same time. I have no unusual sounds or negative performance just antifreeze and oil leaks. Would you use aftermarket turbos, remans or new Ford? I would appreciate your input.
This whole video was spot on. Thanks for taking the time. Beers are on me!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
So why did you take it out in the first place...just out of curiosity or was this just a how to? Or did I miss something? Good vid man. Thanks for sharing.
Could you get to that top of that coolant fitting without removing the turbo?
Awesome video, I wish I didn't live in the rust belt so everything comes apart that easily lol every bolt broke even with heating the bolt housing with oxy acetylene they sheered off. Lots of drilling turned out to be a fun 2 day project but fun just the same lol😂
On first start up after replacement how do you prime the turbo with oil?
Too late for you but for others, answer is hold the gas pedal all the way down pinned to the floor while you start the truck. Prevents fueling so the starter turns the engine and thus oil pump while it cranks. Hold gas pedal down for a good 7-10 count then release and truck will start.
Really good video. I've watched a few and this one covers all the issues related to removal very well. Nice quality.
thank you very much!
I have a 2013 ecoboost but there is no room to get the bolt off at the rusty down pipe, no where for the ratchet to turn
I'm about to replace both turbos on a 2013, it calls for 4hrs left side and 6.5 hrs right side but it seems to be relatively easy. Considering I just did a head gasket and a piston on a mercedes C230. These turbos are a much more straight forward job.
How'd it go?
FORD F150 IS THE BEST SELLING TRUCK FOR MANY MANY YEARS AND BUILT EXTREMELY TOUGH TODAY
42 years !!
Based on this video it doesn't seem to be tough.
@@ericmucha8950 Based on a single truck, eh?
Nice needed your video to replace my turbo thanks.
Awesome video, thanks for the quick education.
Great video it seems like a lot of work
Ever do the drivers side? Would love a video of that side as well. Thank you.
Just thought I'd tune in to see how you go about this and what's involved with it. I'd imagine it would be similar on my 2010 Lincoln MKS, just probably a little tighter to get into. I'll crawl under there and have a closer look now that I know exactly what to change. Though with 120K miles I'll probably just dish out the dough to replace the whole unit rather than just a few gaskets and seals.
Did you end up doing it? How did it go? My Taurus sho blew the turbos so I'm tryin to see if I should tackle it
@@memolopes1044 I actually have not touched the turbos in all this time... surprisingly. Currently at 165k miles and there's more oil caked up on the outside of the one turbo that was leaking then, just recently knocked some of it off, but still nothing major and the car still functions just fine, so I don't really wanna mess with anything there. I'd say if you have the time and the space, go for it, I would. I recently changed one of my cats fully exposing the turbo and didn't look TOO too bad to tackle if I had to.
Not servicing turbo oil filters while you’re there?
My 2015 ecoturd has 111,000 miles with 5400+ engine idol hours I am having to change the drivers side turbo due to a bearing whistle sound. your video is super helpful. I did not know about the coolant drain part had I not watched this video. GOt any tips for the 4x4 vacuum system and the wheel bearing noise it makes, mine always has a wawawa sound then when i shift into 4x4 it goes away.
can I ask what your oil change habits are for this 2015 ecoboost, as well as oil type ? Just curious.
I had that 4x4 issue on my 2015... there was a vacuum leak in the hub assembly so the hub had to be replaced. Took it to the dealer 5 times about the issue before they fixed it.
Dorman has an IWE permanent fix I used on my truck after multiple IWE replacements. I would recommend you look into this. I’ve had no further issues.
Daniel Hucklebridge hello. My oil change regiment is 5k and I use mobile 1. Also found out it wasn’t the turbos it was an exhaust manifold and it’s not completely fixed. Had to take it to the dealership.
My dealership charge is $175 per hr, quote 5 hour repair drivers side coolant leak.
When I dropped the turbo a little bit of the left coolant probably went into the oil line at the bottom? Is this a problem or just changing the oil will do? Thanks
Are you able to get the oil line screen out when the turbo and manifold removed or do you have to move the AC compressor and evacuate refrigerant?
Do you replace the coolant line itself or just the fittings inside the turbo
Is a oil change necessary after replacing the turbo? I literally just got it done less than a week ago before turbo went out.
What sizes are the Torx for the oil/coolant manifold at the base of the Turbo? Exhaust Torx Sizes? Was going to grab some 3/8 impact rated ahead of time. Looks like the downpipe bolts are 15mm, maybe a flex socket / intermediate? They are soaking with some ATF/Acetone mix to make it easier. Thanks in advance
Heyyy!!! Thanks for the video soo freaking helpfull ¡!¡
Great video! Thanks
I'm having an issue with removing the turbocharger on the passenger side. I removed the clip on that oil line fitting but the turbo won't pull away from line. Like it's stuck in fitting. That is the only thing holding the turbo up at the moment
How did you end up getting it off?
Why you change the exhaust manifold and since you did, did you change the oil line filter too?
just watched very helpful, how much more complex is the driver side seeing the steering shaft is in the wayo on a 2012 f150, thanks.
Great video! I might have this job to do soon. You sure made it look easy.
Great video thanks Aaron.
Very helpful,,thanks 👍
How do you tell if it actually the turbo that is bad?
depends on the problem, fins shouldnt be bent, or chipped. small chips arent necessarily too bad, just means it ate something, and there may be a larger problem in the engine. there should be almost no visible play if you wiggle the turbo shaft, no leaks, should spin freely.
What if there is a loud whistling sound when accelerating??
@@MtnWBassin depends on the whistle, if you exclude a normal boost sound, I'd say boost or intake leak, possible a shift issue, while not always, those usually are more of a whine. Check the wastegate too
Bassin, from what I've read that sounds like the wastegate is getting stuck on your turbo
Is it possible to change the turbo oil line filters without removing the turbos?
Son just got a new to him 2014 FX4 just found out drivers side Turbo is leaking dealer gave us a 30 day warranty hoping they do the repair correctly and not skip any steps, do they rebuild the turbo or replace the turbo and should they do the passenger side also since that is at 123K miles and most likely will start leaking also ? Thanks and great video
My coolant line will not pop in the fitting after installing the nrlew one from ford. If i do not install the fitting and push it on the line it works but after install it will not
How did test my turbos see if that’s my problem. I’ve had trouble with my driver side turbo. I just put a new one on one year ago now I have error code P0299. I just changed out the boost control it did not fix my problem. Error code still keeps coming up. I did the 10 point check all of those things look great. My turbo is not rattling like it did the first time please help any advice would be greatly appreciate it.
I noticed an oil leak on my 14 eco 3.5. Researched and decided to tackle the vacuum pump. Replaced it, but noticed afterwards the burning oil smell still happening, and it’s coming from the gasket on the turbo. Do you think that could be remnants from the oil leaking from the above vacuum pump, or is there something that would cause the gasket area on the turbo to be smoking?
I don't know how you guys do it. 2013 and I just can't reach most of the turbo bolts or if I can I cant put any torque on them
my turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust thus fouling my O2 sensor.. do i need to replace entire turbo? if not what do i need to replace to stop the leaking of oil...thanks Mike
What was wrong with this turbocharger? Were you getting code P0299? What were the symptoms, coolant leaks, wastegate rattle/malfunction?
Did you find anything on that thanks
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
Anybody know the best place to purchase a new turbo?
Thanks for the great advice my friend
Great vid, thanks. 1 problem that I have come across is the upper coolant tube. Yes you can rotate it upwards to get it out of the way but there is a good chance that it leaks at the back side of the cylinder head when you are all done. Pain in the ass on that year engine as the brake vacuum pump is mounted on the back side of that head and it needs to be removed to replace fitting. Replace that fitting now as it will save you some grief later. The lower coolant line has a bracket attached to it so there is hardly any chance of the fitting leaking on the other end of the line which is behind the A/C compressor.
Duke Pufus is it the vacuum pump that had the fitting?
Great video where are you located need this done on my truck.
What was the reason for the service and what was the total time of the job. I'm considering buying a Lincoln MKS with ecoboost. Good idea? Bad idea? Interested in your opinion. Thanks
I’m getting ready to replace my turbo. Have a question. I don’t have a torch but want to make sure I can crack those exhaust bolts off charger. Would a regular propane torch be hot enough to get those cracked loose?
The coolant is leaking from the turbo charger. What do you recommend? Did you actually replace the turbo charger or did you just replace the bolts to stop the leak?
How can you reach the connector at the back of the engine .... its very diffciult to access there i remeove the uper intake but still not room any video to help
How did you get the top exhaust bolt out? Deep socket ? Under truck with?
Would this be a similar process for a 2017 gen 2 Raptor?
Purchased 2 brand new turbos wanted to verify the waistgate was working on my original turbos and neither one of them moved one side held vacuum but the lever never moved the other did not hold vacuum. I got 2 new turbos in an i tried to verify waistgate lever action on them and neither one moved they both hold vacuum any ideas its a 2016 F150 3.5. Just curious...
Is it possible to replace the two quick connect fittings without removing the entire turbo?
No
Would these 4 coolant line connectors be the exact same 4 for the drivers side? Thanks in advance
I have a high mileage truck "210k". At idle the driver side turbo sounds like a bucket of rocks, and under acceleration the wastegate is very noisey. Will be parking it soon to investigate further.
I’m having a hard time trying to get the oil feed gasket and o ring to seal any tips?
Not sure if this is a diy type job for me but the cost to pay dealer gives me long pause. When reinstalling top exhaust flanges with turbo and the air intakes at top you mentioned to make sure they’re done first. How hard is it to make sure it’s aligned properly so proper torque is done?
I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot the password. I love any help you can offer me!
@Salvatore Izaiah instablaster =)
@Zane Jordy thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Zane Jordy it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my ass !
@Salvatore Izaiah You are welcome :)
How do you get that back coolant line on been fighting with it for 3 days?
Why change the oil?? I’m having my turbo fitting replaced by my local ford dealer just wanna make sure they do that
Hey I have a 2015 2.7 f-150 I am looking at buying a used turbo how do I no that the wast gate is adjusted properly?
Super helpful video and follow up on all the comments. I’m an occasional DYIer but I only have one vehicle so can’t afford to not having it working the next day. A nondealership mechanic just quoted me $7500 to do both turbos on my ‘13 F150 3.5L Eco. Question: 1) Do I really need to replace both (like the mechanic says? 2) Should I get all new parts like mechanic is telling me (except gaskets of course) 3) How much should I really be paying to have this done? Sounds like I should get a second beater car and try this myself. Thoughts?
Give it a shot. I’m pretty sure I have a coolant leak on one of my turbos.
Great video besides on the 2012 the o2 sensor doesn’t allow you to slide the flange down so you have to remove those pos studs from below
Behind the brake pedal, there’s a cut out circle in the insulation. Pull that back there’s a rubber grommet that’s how you access the bolt closest to the firewall.
@@donw22 that’s interested I was doing the passenger side they make it where you have to pull the studs to get the turbo in out vs sliding the exhaust coupler off the studs and out of the way. The nuts weren’t bad at all to get out though