Great idea using your faceplate, I almost never think to use mine for much at all.. I set up my shop vac to suck up dust when turning cast iron. Great video, thanks for sharing.
how did you centralise your face plate to the main disc with the 2 bolts being used. Measurements.? guessing.? or its it auto based. I am guessing it was measurements.
Hi.what speed did you have the lathe at. I have just purchased a CL500 with mill and just tried a brake disc skim for a friend. It was horrible. Made a mess of it, then had to sand the thing. just seemed to scratch and score it. not sure what is was doing wrong.
Hi John, Thanks for you comment. The lathe was running at 160RPM using a brazed carbide tool, no lube as it's cast iron and I took it nice and slow with light cuts.
@@SpenCrowson Thanks for that. I also had it on 160. It was singing loud. Think the whole street could here lol. I'll try a brazed carbide and see. thanks.
You missed some very important points in your video................................... Nothing wrong with doing it yourself but do it correctly and don't show people the wrong way of doing it. You may not be using it on the road but someone else might. Please don't take my explanation as criticism as it was not meant as such.. For a rotor that sits against the hub flat faces together MUST be clocked from that face. This is it's mount and regardless of how parrell the rotor is if bent or worn unevenly it will run true for the caliper once machined. The front face that mates to the wheel unless checked for parrell against the hub face is not an acceptable register hub face only. Even when brand new these faces can run out by 0.002"...... When deciding how thick to machine the rotors the minimum thickness is not your only consideration. The centerline of the rotor in relation to the hub face must be used to ensure the caliper can act on the rotor safely..... This means that you may have 0.100" that you can take off in total but you cant take more than 0.050" on any side....... If one side only needs 0.010" removed and the other needs 0.060" removed the rotor is stuffed and should not be reused even though the rotor will be thicker than minimum. It is also bad practice to say machine of a rotor that is for example + 0.100" overall on minimum thickness 0.050" on one side and 0.010" on the other. The rotor will be safe and acceptable to use but if later removed for machining and the current center is used for the minimum thickness calculation the rotor will be to thin on one side. This consideration is important regardless of solid or vented style as it relates to the caliper position... The same should be removed on both sides. Brake calipers have a fair range of movement and can usually handle a change of 0.010~0.015" center line change but no more long term. You can safely use rotors of different thickness as long as they are within spec. New and old together on the same axle as long as the old has been machined and the same type of pads have been fitted to both sides...... The reason why you cant change the centerline to much is a double sided caliper will require one set of pistons to hyper extend and this will normally make them stick. In extreme cases they could loose fluid and cock over locking up that wheel...... A single sided caliper can stick on it's guides only allowing the piston to move giving drag and have a timing issue when the brakes are deployed. This shows up as the brakes pulling to one side for a moment when first applied but working correctly after that...... On a car with ABS there can be more issues as well but none of the above advice will cause any ABS issues. Watching that cloth drag against the chuck made me shudder, may I recommend another swarf control method? Try a cheap 1" paint brush and mount it or hold it just above the tool. It will prevent the swarf from going to far. You can use larger and even if caught it will only loose a few bristles. It also works great for brass turning as well. Cheers
Thanks for your comment. I take it that you are referring to the minimum thickness, I can assure you that I take this into account when working on a customer's item. This one was for for demo purposes only and was used on an upcycling project.
Cast iron is a fantastic material. Really comes back nice after a run on a lathe
Makes one hell of a mess though 😂🤣
Great idea using your faceplate, I almost never think to use mine for much at all.. I set up my shop vac to suck up dust when turning cast iron. Great video, thanks for sharing.
how did you centralise your face plate to the main disc with the 2 bolts being used. Measurements.? guessing.? or its it auto based. I am guessing it was measurements.
😍😍😍😍 love watching these types of videos
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed it.
Crazy idea ! change to new one !!!!!!!
Where is the fun in that 🤣😂
Brand new Rotors are no where near the same quauility as the OE Brand! Always skim first, replace second!
Hi.what speed did you have the lathe at. I have just purchased a CL500 with mill and just tried a brake disc skim for a friend. It was horrible. Made a mess of it, then had to sand the thing. just seemed to scratch and score it. not sure what is was doing wrong.
Hi John, Thanks for you comment. The lathe was running at 160RPM using a brazed carbide tool, no lube as it's cast iron and I took it nice and slow with light cuts.
@@SpenCrowson Thanks for that. I also had it on 160. It was singing loud. Think the whole street could here lol. I'll try a brazed carbide and see. thanks.
@@jay7605 On a vented disc you must use these rubber bands around it to eliminate those vibrations.
You missed some very important points in your video................................... Nothing wrong with doing it yourself but do it correctly and don't show people the wrong way of doing it. You may not be using it on the road but someone else might. Please don't take my explanation as criticism as it was not meant as such..
For a rotor that sits against the hub flat faces
together MUST be clocked from that face. This is it's mount and
regardless of how parrell the rotor is if bent or worn unevenly it will
run true for the caliper once machined. The front face that mates to
the wheel unless checked for parrell against the hub face is not an
acceptable register hub face only. Even when brand new these faces can
run out by 0.002"......
When deciding how thick to machine the rotors
the minimum thickness is not your only consideration. The centerline of
the rotor in relation to the hub face must be used to ensure the
caliper can act on the rotor safely..... This means that you may have
0.100" that you can take off in total but you cant take more than 0.050"
on any side....... If one side only needs 0.010" removed and the other
needs 0.060" removed the rotor is stuffed and should not be reused even
though the rotor will be thicker than minimum. It is also bad practice
to say machine of a rotor that is for example + 0.100" overall on
minimum thickness 0.050" on one side and 0.010" on the other. The rotor
will be safe and acceptable to use but if later removed for machining
and the current center is used for the minimum thickness calculation the
rotor will be to thin on one side. This consideration is important
regardless of solid or vented style as it relates to the caliper
position... The same should be removed on both sides. Brake calipers
have a fair range of movement and can usually handle a change of
0.010~0.015" center line change but no more long term.
You can safely use rotors of different thickness as long as they are within
spec. New and old together on the same axle as long as the old has been
machined and the same type of pads have been fitted to both sides......
The reason why you cant change the centerline to much is a double sided
caliper will require one set of pistons to hyper extend and this will
normally make them stick. In extreme cases they could loose fluid and
cock over locking up that wheel...... A single sided caliper can stick
on it's guides only allowing the piston to move giving drag and have a
timing issue when the brakes are deployed. This shows up as the brakes
pulling to one side for a moment when first applied but working
correctly after that...... On a car with ABS there can be more issues as
well but none of the above advice will cause any ABS issues.
Watching that cloth drag against the chuck made me shudder, may I recommend another swarf control method? Try a cheap 1" paint brush and mount it or hold it just above the tool. It will prevent the swarf from going to far. You can use larger and even if caught it will only loose a few bristles. It also works great for brass turning as well.
Cheers
Thanks for your comment. I take it that you are referring to the minimum thickness, I can assure you that I take this into account when working on a customer's item. This one was for for demo purposes only and was used on an upcycling project.
Thanks for your in depth and interesting reply. I'm always open to constructive criticism, so thank you putting me right.
Nice information my friend
that rotor is way too thin
george stachura it's cleaned up real nice for a bike
You are absolutely right but i'm sure they never notice that in the technical control because they can't see a rim from the side.
I don't think he is going to put it on a car.
Just an example on how you can do it. Probably a junk rotor
I think he said it is for one of his upcycling sculptures.