I was taught to put a scale/ruler or similar between the part and the tool and adjust the height until the scale looked vertical. Works well enough, works quickly, requires no thought, and anybody who has a lathe SHOULD have a scale.
Same here. The first scale I owned had several dents and scratches from me not being careful. So I started using bandiing strap or EZ-Lap diamond files with the plastic handle.
you can also use the second depth gauge on the digital caliper that is on the back side of jaws..... it has a bigger surface to align to.......hope this helps, Paul
Great video. i never actually thought to rotate the grub screw on the tool like you did to make it more precise then turning the knobs. Though the downside of doing it that way is that the thread could move over time. I always thought those screws were supposed to be loctited in and you use the knobs to adjust then locking with the nut.
I was a machinist for well over 30 years and always use the six inch rule and checked by eye when it was level and the first cut across the face would prove if it was right and 99% of the time it was right
First, if you’re adjusting by the stud and not the ring your set will be short lived. First thing I do to new holders is put on removable thread locker so the stud cannot spin. Second, While that method is generally pretty good it does fall short on certain geometries such as CCMT types where the whole insert is set at an angle to create the clearance or some other tools with crazy geometry where it isn’t feasible. To set tools I’ll generally turn it with a good tool and turn a taper, the finished point can be used to set your tool height visually and be generally close enough.
Hi, Very cool and clear ….. another easy way to centering your tools is to put a mini laser pointer with a very small gap in your chuck …. most accurate in an independent four jaw chuck. The laser beam will point your insert on the correct center height …..
At first I had the same idea, but soon discarded it considering that a laser pointer's spot is usually larger than the expected precision of a few hundredths of mm of a digital caliper. And yes, you could use a focusable laser module, but even then the precision of the system could be affected heavily by the angular error of the beam, due to the sum of three key factors: chuck runoff, unpredictable (and not repeatable) positioning tolerances at every new clamping of the laser module and, what's worst, no guarantee at all that the inner laser diode and its outer casing are perfectly aligned and parallel on assembly. The sum of these angular errors could thus result in quite a large peripheral deviation of the spot, even at relatively short distances.
Your presentation is nicely done. I would request that you sir, or anyone watching this would learn to hold the handle of the file in your left had, and the file tip in your right hand, while stepping a bit to the right. This has two advantages. The first being a great reduction in the chances of getting your elbow clipped by a jaw of the chuck. The second, is to remove most of your body parts out of the line of fire, if the file is thrown back at you after getting hit, again by a spinning chuck jaw. I have had experience with both of these situations. Safety first, stitches next.
Thanks Robert. Personally I would not want to use my non dominant hand and work cack-handed or stand in an uncomfortable place as this would mean less control over the tool and more chance of hitting the chuck. The safest option is to not use this technique unless you have to, and if you do use it observe the following: No sleeves, no jewellery, elbows well away from your sides and keep the file orthogonal to the lathe bed i.e. 90 degrees to the axis of the chuck. Do not use the technique on awkward shaped jobs with protrusions or when the chuck has the jaws protruding too far out. Stay alert and stay safe.
Sounds like a lot of measuring, got a tip for you. Take steel 6inch rule out your top brest pocket and plumb it up against the side of your stock bar, lightly hold it with your tool point and Eye it up vertically. By dinnertime you'll be a dab hand at it and have it perfect ,fast and efficiently every time. P
@@radboogie think I'll just keep using center in tailstock to eye up tooling in that case though it's the way I've been trained. And to be honest it takes seconds instead of mins . But your way could be beneficial on more complicated independent four jaws tasks .p
As far as the tool height goes just simply line your tool up with your dead or live Centre in the tail stock works every time, as long as your tail stock is aligned correctly which it should be if you have set your lathe up properly. I have had no problems doing it this way and I have no little tit on the part when I face off.
As a retired engineer having spent many years in production machining you’re actually trying to solve a problem that doesn’t exist. Whilst your efforts do allow you to set a centre height in time it’s totally unnecessary. A previous comment nailed it really but using a steel rule 6 inch place it tool side of the bar gently bring the tool to trap the rule between the bar and tool cutting tip. A quick glance at the angle of the rule will tell you if your high low of near enough. The rule should be vertical for centre height. A fine skim across the bar to clean will give you a perfect view of centre height. Adjust to ensure spot on. In production engineering you don’t have the time to mess with dtis and verniers to get this position. Some people use centre drills in a tail stock chuck after making a tiny pip in the face of the bar, or if you have a tail stock hardened centre or running centre you can adjust centre height of the tip of the centre. Don’t mess about, get set up and start the best bit, cutting steel. Nice little lathe you’ve got.
Thanks for the info 👍 This is just a technique I found myself using and hadn't seen elsewhere so I decided to put it out there. It's not a replacement for any of the other techniques that people use but comes in handy for when the ruler and pip tricks cannot be used.
No need to use dti. Simply measure height at 180deg. Divide by two and that's the number you aiming for. Personally I made a centre height setting block. It's knurled and had decent base. I an instantly check centre height especially when the lathe is used by others.
I was taught to put a scale/ruler or similar between the part and the tool and adjust the height until the scale looked vertical. Works well enough, works quickly, requires no thought, and anybody who has a lathe SHOULD have a scale.
Same here. The first scale I owned had several dents and scratches from me not being careful. So I started using bandiing strap or EZ-Lap diamond files with the plastic handle.
There's lots of ways to set tool height, this is just another one that is useful in some situations. Use whichever technique works for you.
That's exactly what I was taught also many years ago
Me too, back in High School 1967
Yup used that at work industialy and at home shop
so obvious when explained so well. TKS for that tip.. 80 years and still learning useful tips .
Thanks Richard, glad you like it 👍
you can also use the second depth gauge on the digital caliper that is on the back side of jaws.....
it has a bigger surface to align to.......hope this helps, Paul
Nice one Paul, I always forget that feature is there!
I find it is a bit more accurate......at least for larger surfaces, little holes, I still use the tail depth pin.....@@radboogie
great information Richard, cheers from the US, Paul
You are doing very unique work
Great video. i never actually thought to rotate the grub screw on the tool like you did to make it more precise then turning the knobs. Though the downside of doing it that way is that the thread could move over time. I always thought those screws were supposed to be loctited in and you use the knobs to adjust then locking with the nut.
Nice tips! im thinking of getting one of those mini lathes myself so your video will be really helpful!
Thanks, these are great little lathes for the money. Go for it, they're good fun and get the job done 👍
Very slick! Excellent video!
Glad you liked it!
Very nice approach
Thanks Guy 👍
Not a bad view and great natural light. Good vid as well 👍
Simple and elegant.
I was a machinist for well over 30 years and always use the six inch rule and checked by eye when it was level and the first cut across the face would prove if it was right and 99% of the time it was right
Spot on 👍
First, if you’re adjusting by the stud and not the ring your set will be short lived. First thing I do to new holders is put on removable thread locker so the stud cannot spin.
Second, While that method is generally pretty good it does fall short on certain geometries such as CCMT types where the whole insert is set at an angle to create the clearance or some other tools with crazy geometry where it isn’t feasible. To set tools I’ll generally turn it with a good tool and turn a taper, the finished point can be used to set your tool height visually and be generally close enough.
Thanks for adding to the knowledge.
Fantastic tip!!! Many thanx.
Hi,
Very cool and clear …..
another easy way to centering your tools is to put a mini laser
pointer with a very small gap in your chuck …. most accurate in an independent four jaw chuck.
The laser beam will point your
insert on the correct center height …..
Interesting idea, thanks.
At first I had the same idea, but soon discarded it considering that a laser pointer's spot is usually larger than the expected precision of a few hundredths of mm of a digital caliper.
And yes, you could use a focusable laser module, but even then the precision of the system could be affected heavily by the angular error of the beam, due to the sum of three key factors: chuck runoff, unpredictable (and not repeatable) positioning tolerances at every new clamping of the laser module and, what's worst, no guarantee at all that the inner laser diode and its outer casing are perfectly aligned and parallel on assembly.
The sum of these angular errors could thus result in quite a large peripheral deviation of the spot, even at relatively short distances.
Very nice work. Thanks for sharing it
Your presentation is nicely done. I would request that you sir, or anyone watching this would learn to hold the handle of the file in your left had, and the file tip in your right hand, while stepping a bit to the right. This has two advantages. The first being a great reduction in the chances of getting your elbow clipped by a jaw of the chuck. The second, is to remove most of your body parts out of the line of fire, if the file is thrown back at you after getting hit, again by a spinning chuck jaw. I have had experience with both of these situations. Safety first, stitches next.
Thanks Robert. Personally I would not want to use my non dominant hand and work cack-handed or stand in an uncomfortable place as this would mean less control over the tool and more chance of hitting the chuck. The safest option is to not use this technique unless you have to, and if you do use it observe the following: No sleeves, no jewellery, elbows well away from your sides and keep the file orthogonal to the lathe bed i.e. 90 degrees to the axis of the chuck. Do not use the technique on awkward shaped jobs with protrusions or when the chuck has the jaws protruding too far out. Stay alert and stay safe.
Sounds like a lot of measuring, got a tip for you. Take steel 6inch rule out your top brest pocket and plumb it up against the side of your stock bar, lightly hold it with your tool point and Eye it up vertically. By dinnertime you'll be a dab hand at it and have it perfect ,fast and efficiently every time. P
Except the times when the job isn't round.
Unless your going to use a faster to hold something square you'll not get a square object in a 3 jaw self centreing chuck. .
@@Phil-fj5fetry it with hex bar.
Fair point
@@radboogie think I'll just keep using center in tailstock to eye up tooling in that case though it's the way I've been trained. And to be honest it takes seconds instead of mins . But your way could be beneficial on more complicated independent four jaws tasks .p
Beautiful machine
As far as the tool height goes just simply line your tool up with your dead or live Centre in the tail stock works every time, as long as your tail stock is aligned correctly which it should be if you have set your lathe up properly. I have had no problems doing it this way and I have no little tit on the part when I face off.
As a retired engineer having spent many years in production machining you’re actually trying to solve a problem that doesn’t
exist. Whilst your efforts do allow you to set a centre height in time it’s totally unnecessary. A previous comment nailed it
really but using a steel rule 6 inch place it tool side of the bar gently bring the tool to trap the rule between the bar and tool
cutting tip. A quick glance at the angle of the rule will tell you if your high low of near enough. The rule should be vertical
for centre height. A fine skim across the bar to clean will give you a perfect view of centre height. Adjust to ensure spot on.
In production engineering you don’t have the time to mess with dtis and verniers to get this position. Some people use
centre drills in a tail stock chuck after making a tiny pip in the face of the bar, or if you have a tail stock hardened centre
or running centre you can adjust centre height of the tip of the centre. Don’t mess about, get set up and start the best bit,
cutting steel. Nice little lathe you’ve got.
Thanks for the info 👍 This is just a technique I found myself using and hadn't seen elsewhere so I decided to put it out there. It's not a replacement for any of the other techniques that people use but comes in handy for when the ruler and pip tricks cannot be used.
Nice work
No need to use dti. Simply measure height at 180deg. Divide by two and that's the number you aiming for. Personally I made a centre height setting block. It's knurled and had decent base. I an instantly check centre height especially when the lathe is used by others.
Yes. Centre height setting block is the bees knees, providing there's a suitable flat area on the lathe. Tho this approach is fine but slightly slow!
I would just set tool by eye, take a shallow facing cut, then reset to tool to the centre of any "pip" left. Or ue 6 inch rule like @Halinspark does
Both fine techniques. This one is useful if you have bored or drilled out the face and can't face to a pip - just another approach.
excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
Always many ways to skin a cat , 🤔 I just put my scribe in the chuck and align my tool with the tip 😉. Easy Peasy 😊 !
@@mrc1539 nice 👍
Why not just take a few face cuts. 30 yr. Retired machinist.
@@marksavage3989 perfect. Unless you've already bored the face out and need to set tool height. Just another technique I thought I'd share.
What a waste of time