Man, you have that car STRIPPED DOWN!!! Like step one on the assembly line. 🤣 Nice categorization system and the plating turned out great. And best of all, you can say the parts are all original. 👍🏼
@@theaussienurseflipper.8113 or just vinegar. if anybody wanna try, just leave a rusted out old brake disc in vinegar for a few hours than you can pressure wash all the rust from it's surface. i have not tried it yet with heavily rusted bolts...
Thank you! There is a second passivate in the kit. A blue one, that gives a silver finish. But yeah, if you skip passivate it's plated in classic zinc color. I'm not sure if passivates are just for looks or maybe they add a bit of durability too.
Really nice video and your table is tidy. I like when people restore old european cars. Mine is not that old but just this year coming oldtimer :). I would like to do same in free time and give a try. Can you please share to me where did you buy your yellow zinc plating kit? Thanks and i hope that you will post more nice videos like that.
Thank you for watching! I got it from a site called classicplating from UK but it looks like it no longer exist... just find a kit that is available in your country. I think they all give similar results.
I'm using a very similar kit, thanks for sharing your process. Did you have trouble getting a good even passivation with a deep colour? Mine is coming out a bit pale and blotchy. I notice you have a nitric acid dip before passivation that is not in my kit, did you add that yourself? Does it make a difference to the passivation result? (I'm using the 'dry acid' as a dip between plating and passivation but it's not perfect.) Great work on the car, I shall watch the whole series.
Thank you for watching! Nitric acid came with the kit so I use it, not sure how it improves the results. Most of the time, my plating comes out looking great, but sometimes I need to redo it as I'm not happy with the results. I think it comes down to the size of the plating items and playing with the resistor(as I use regular car battery). I think my results would improve with adjustable 12v source, so I plan to get one. Maybe it all depends from kit to kit too.
Great job, final look is great. Mind sharing the mix for electrolite bath ? Also, the plates on the Cathode are solid zinc or just normal galvanized steel ? And do you know if this process could be used for plating with copper or brass ? Best Regards !
You still need to remove existing zinc coating assuming you want to get gold zinc look. Either mechanically with a bench grinder or with some chemicals and still shine them up on a bench grinder for better results.
Hi i got the same kit for zic with all materials. But when i try yellow pasivate wont stay on the bolts. I try all, put on furnace after pasivate, let dry naturaly for 72h, hot air gun before pasivate, put first transparent pasivate and then yellow, but never stays on the bolts, when u touch the bolt the pasivate come out. Any advice? Thanks for your videos.
It's because the electrolyte bath leaves a greasy layer on the workpiece after plating. The nitric acid dip mixed at 0.5% will solve this problem. Dip for 20 seconds. Rinse before and after in distilled water, then do your passivate dip. Then you must get all water droplets off with compressed air or they will stain the passivate layer
Be careful wearing gloves near spinning machines, the glove can get caught up and it can pull you in really quickly for a lot more damage than the gloves protect you from!
What am I doing something WRONG? I zinc plated my bolts and than deposited into a Nickel plating bath. But after the nickel plating it looks like the zinc coating somehow got removed. Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong?
Could you please provide info on the chemical solutions that you use? Getting a plating kit in my country is almost impossible if you are not a store owner.
Thank you for commenting. if you can't get the kit I think you'll have a hard time finding the chemicals too. Go to classic plating site and you can find all info there. There's a great video by Geoffrey Croker on DIY palting, and he's not using any kit.
@@RestorationApprentice Thanks for the info. I can get all the chemicals easily and localy, except the sulfuric acid which needs permission. There is no distributor for a plating kit and I would have to import it, which is costly.
Only one I could get in my country, I'm not sure how to translate it. It's called granos grit... Something to do with copper. I don't think you can go wrong any medium really.
Forget about blasting. Use hydrochloric acid (outside don’t breath smoke) wait 10 minutes, then rince parts, you can poor the Ha back inside the bottle for next time, diluted ha is not harmful for environment btw, its a natural component
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Nice! I want to open a small line for this process, just need to figure out zinc and NAOH concentrations.
Man, you have that car STRIPPED DOWN!!! Like step one on the assembly line. 🤣 Nice categorization system and the plating turned out great. And best of all, you can say the parts are all original. 👍🏼
Thank you, my friend! Yeah, it was a lot of work so far but I'm having a blast and learning a lot!
Looking forward to more videos coming from you btw!
Beautiful and practical organization of small parts! I will take a note!
😊 Thank you!
When blasting small parts, a magnetic tray makes it easier. No need to hold the parts and making holes in the gloves. 😁
That's a great tip, thank you!
I heard citrus acid for a few hours works a treat
@@theaussienurseflipper.8113 or just vinegar. if anybody wanna try, just leave a rusted out old brake disc in vinegar for a few hours than you can pressure wash all the rust from it's surface. i have not tried it yet with heavily rusted bolts...
Thanks for showing us your approach to this process.
What difference does the yellow pasivator make, apart from the final colour ?
Thanks! I believe it's just for color.
Awesome work! I’m assuming of you skip the yellow passivate the parts would be complete minus the gold color? Love your videos!
Thank you! There is a second passivate in the kit. A blue one, that gives a silver finish. But yeah, if you skip passivate it's plated in classic zinc color. I'm not sure if passivates are just for looks or maybe they add a bit of durability too.
@@RestorationApprentice also add corrosion resistance
Beau travail mon ami
Thank you, my friend!
Put your bolts in a cordless drill when wire wheeling. Way less fiddly.
Thank you for the tip!
Hi, great video. Please, why did you yellow passivate the material while it was already zinc platted. Thank you
Thanks. Just for gold look, I like it.
Really nice video and your table is tidy. I like when people restore old european cars. Mine is not that old but just this year coming oldtimer :).
I would like to do same in free time and give a try.
Can you please share to me where did you buy your yellow zinc plating kit?
Thanks and i hope that you will post more nice videos like that.
Thank you for watching! I got it from a site called classicplating from UK but it looks like it no longer exist... just find a kit that is available in your country. I think they all give similar results.
@@RestorationApprentice thanks for a reply.
I'm using a very similar kit, thanks for sharing your process.
Did you have trouble getting a good even passivation with a deep colour? Mine is coming out a bit pale and blotchy.
I notice you have a nitric acid dip before passivation that is not in my kit, did you add that yourself? Does it make a difference to the passivation result? (I'm using the 'dry acid' as a dip between plating and passivation but it's not perfect.)
Great work on the car, I shall watch the whole series.
Thank you for watching! Nitric acid came with the kit so I use it, not sure how it improves the results. Most of the time, my plating comes out looking great, but sometimes I need to redo it as I'm not happy with the results. I think it comes down to the size of the plating items and playing with the resistor(as I use regular car battery). I think my results would improve with adjustable 12v source, so I plan to get one. Maybe it all depends from kit to kit too.
Great job, final look is great. Mind sharing the mix for electrolite bath ? Also, the plates on the Cathode are solid zinc or just normal galvanized steel ? And do you know if this process could be used for plating with copper or brass ? Best Regards !
Thank you. This was a full kit that I bought, and it comes with everything you need.
.... Good job, nice result... Bless you Please what is yallow passivate and how can I get it? And can it be made at home? Thank you
It came in a kit. I got mine from classicplating.uk
It's a bunch of Chromate salts, really nasty toxic stuff that you have to be very careful with. It does protect Zinc plated metal well though
You can get it from us at www.classic-plating.co.uk 😎
Good work, thanks, If you can help me, I am looking for the formula for Zinc nickel plating.
Thank you for watching but this was bought as a full kit with everything that you need for plating.
If I have new, non-rusty bolts, what steps could I skip? Because it seems like a lot of the process was cleaning the bolts of rust
You still need to remove existing zinc coating assuming you want to get gold zinc look. Either mechanically with a bench grinder or with some chemicals and still shine them up on a bench grinder for better results.
Looks brilliant! Great video 👌🏻
Thank you!
Hi i got the same kit for zic with all materials. But when i try yellow pasivate wont stay on the bolts. I try all, put on furnace after pasivate, let dry naturaly for 72h, hot air gun before pasivate, put first transparent pasivate and then yellow, but never stays on the bolts, when u touch the bolt the pasivate come out. Any advice? Thanks for your videos.
Sorry for the super late reply. I got that same problem on my last batch... not sure why. It might be worth emailing classicpalting and asking them.
It's because the electrolyte bath leaves a greasy layer on the workpiece after plating. The nitric acid dip mixed at 0.5% will solve this problem. Dip for 20 seconds. Rinse before and after in distilled water, then do your passivate dip. Then you must get all water droplets off with compressed air or they will stain the passivate layer
Nice! Will be doing this soon myself. What concentration are the two acid baths?
Thank you! I don't remember but you'll get instructions on chemicals mixing with any kit you get.
@@RestorationApprentice unfortunately, my kit doesn't actually say what the acid concentration should be
@@jeffhammond8969 Let me search for documents from my kit and I'll let you know.
Hi, what solition is used for yellow passivation?
It all came in the kit, I just mixed it with the water.
How many CC/ltr nitric acid do you use for activator before yellow paint
I don't know, sorry. I just followed the instructions and mixed the chemicals that I got in the kit.
Be careful wearing gloves near spinning machines, the glove can get caught up and it can pull you in really quickly for a lot more damage than the gloves protect you from!
Thanks.
Everyone already knows that
Hallo, weißt du zufällig noch wo du das Kit gekauft hast und hast zufällig nen Link zu dem Shop oder sowas?
Classic Plating UK but it looks like they no longer exist.
What am I doing something WRONG? I zinc plated my bolts and than deposited into a Nickel plating bath. But after the nickel plating it looks like the zinc coating somehow got removed. Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong?
I'm not sure, I only know how to use this kit.
Could you please provide info on the chemical solutions that you use? Getting a plating kit in my country is almost impossible if you are not a store owner.
Thank you for commenting. if you can't get the kit I think you'll have a hard time finding the chemicals too. Go to classic plating site and you can find all info there. There's a great video by Geoffrey Croker on DIY palting, and he's not using any kit.
@@RestorationApprentice Thanks for the info. I can get all the chemicals easily and localy, except the sulfuric acid which needs permission. There is no distributor for a plating kit and I would have to import it, which is costly.
can i just wire brush them and skip the sand blasting?
@@iambigbear if they are not too pitted from rust, yes. Keep in mind the cleaner you get it, the better the results.
May i ask, what is the yellow passivate ?
It came in the kit with everything else, just labeled "yellow passivate"
You have a wire wheel on a bench top grinder, what size is it please 6” or 8”
It's 20cm, I guess that's 8"?
Nice experiment 😍
But how I can make the yellow passivate?
Thank you for watching! I really don't know, it all came with the kit I bought.
@@RestorationApprentice No problem thank you
Hi RA another question please what medium do you use in the sand blaster cabinet?
Only one I could get in my country, I'm not sure how to translate it. It's called granos grit... Something to do with copper. I don't think you can go wrong any medium really.
ممكن اعرف اسم المواد الجافنه للون الاصفر اللمع ده وشكرا
It comes with the kit I bought, don't know exact chemicals. Thank you for watching!
What is the solution that they’re plated in
I don't know, it's all in the DIY kit I got.
Where do you get the yellow color solution from ?
It was included with the kit
rust remover 1 litre water,100 grams citric acid and 65 grams baking soda and some dish soap
Thanks for the tip!
Forget about blasting. Use hydrochloric acid (outside don’t breath smoke) wait 10 minutes, then rince parts, you can poor the Ha back inside the bottle for next time, diluted ha is not harmful for environment btw, its a natural component
Thank you for the tip!
wow great job :)
Thank you!
nice
Thanks!
Simple basic
Thank you for watching!