Thank you. I have had issues with mine. Finally bought this and noticed everyone only had 2 wires. Saw this, did what you said it started right up! Thank you
Did yours work? I did so and it didn’t work but I have the white wire closest to me as that’s how it was before I bought the 3 n 1… i heard a clicking before I installed this now I don’t hear anything.
I appreciate your explanation of left to right with the start and run in relationship to the common. All the videos I saw had the common on the bottom. Mine is on top and I wasn't sure if I had to switch the order
Please note that there are a few major mistakes and issues in this way of wiring. 1) Your run and start wires (left and right on the compressor) are reversed. (If common is on top, Run is the right pin, if common is on the bottom, Run is the left pin.) 2) The black line connected originally to your bottom pin is one of your power lines (Hot). Your blue wire is your 2nd power line (Neutral), which was connected to the Run winding. The reason you have an extra wire is that you have a run capacitor. Your blue power line is also connected to one side of the capacitor, and from the other side you get the pink wire, which needs to directly connect to the compressor’s start pin. 3) Your run capacitor, which was supposed to be in series with your start winding, is now instead connected in parallel to your Hot and Neutral! So, you need to use the fridge black and blue wires and connect those to the 3n1 black power lines. And you should splice the pink wire to your 3n1 white wire to connect it to your start pin on your compressor. (and don’t forget your reversed Run and Start pins) I will be surprised if you haven’t damaged your run capacitor and compressor. Please either remove this video, or make another one with the right wiring to not misguide others. I appreciate your bravery and trying things out! You can refer to this video to fully understand it: th-cam.com/video/zqhkvXPjtKc/w-d-xo.html
The problem I see with all these videos is what about the on/off/thermostat switch on the outside of your freezer. You know that dial that turns on or off your freezer and you can set it to mid/high/low etc. Anyway the solution was simple. In its original configuration, two wires from the power go to the switch/thermostat. Blue and brown. A third wire coming from the switch/thermostat (black) provided 120 when there is a call for cooling. So simply connect the Supco 1 power lead to that black wire. The blue wire connect to one incoming power. The brown wire will connect to both the Supco and other power wire. Now you can turn off/on your freezer and thermostat control it.
I have this exact setup and relay went bad and can definitively say that, contrary to some commenters about the three prong rotation theory, the bottom is common, left is start, right is run. BUT! Unlike tis video the extra "thermostat" wire tripped my breaker when splicing to the common, and the fridge and all its functions only worked with that extra wire connected to one of the power wires. Hope this helps anyone that was flummoxed like i
YOU ARE A GODSEND!!! I spent the whole morning trying to install this thing and then... dang extra wire. Please please please label this one "Supco (U)RCO410 3-in-1 Installation - Leftover Last Wire Hack" for search purposes. I had to watch 12 before finding yours and watching to find out if you were going to have the same issue.
Bro - thank you, thank you, thank you 🙂. I had the 3rd power wire as well and my compressor fired up as soon as I spliced it into the common wire like u described.
Good Lord man you make that way more complicated than it needs to be. The thermostat turns on both the fan and the compressor. All you need to do is cut the two power wires and connect them to the two black power wires on the three on one. There is no third power wire. The thermostat is just a switch that breaks the circuit. Now, as far as the probes on the compressor if the common is on the top, run is on the right, start is on the left. If the common is on the bottom you just rotate that triangle so now the common is on the bottom, run is on the left, start is on the right .
So I connected the two wires that give me 120 power to the black power wires. I also hooked up the start, run, and common wires to the compressor and it did not work. I left the third wire that with to the start relay disconnected and my system will not kick on. My compressor checks out with a multimeter but it will not kick on. Do I need to connect that Start Relay wire to the common as he showed in this video?
I did the inverter triangle as you said and it is working, but I can't hear when the compressor starts and finish. Question: If I hooked the cables start and run incorrectly, it can still work but maybe frying my compressor by failing to finish it's cycles? 😢
I followed the instructions on the package. If you don't have the package, just google the brand you have and it will give you instruction.@@mikemd2697
CSR is how to remember it. And then reading from left to right and down just like reading a book. In your configuration which is an upside down triangle. Common is upper left then reading across would be Start and the middle pin which is down the middle and down would be Run. This is based on my commercial refrigeration training.
Great video. My setup is I have 2 wires that connect to starter relay from the capacitor. I have one black one that connects and one yellow. I just ordered this kit. Which wires do I plug in the 2 black wires that's attached to the supko kit?
Hi Everyone, thank you for the advice and input in these comments. I would like to say that I am not a repairperson and attempted this during the pandemic when I had no work - according to some comments, I did this completely wrong/backwards/dangerously. You may be right, I have no idea as I am not a repairperson! However I would like to share that it is May 2024 and my refrigerator is still running great off of this repair, sooo...🤷. Anyways, best of luck to you all and remember I have no expertise in this, just trying to get by and it seems to still be working. Perhaps next week my fridge will explode...😁
Great video. I wonder why the company has the diagram for white as the start, black as the common, and red as the run, but they have the wires coming out of the mechanism in the order of white, red, then black… Why confuse us? Is there a reason why it is out of order between the diagram and the physical wiring?
Mine has 4 wires? Three to starter relay , and then one to the overload ? Any suggestions on how I would wire that up with this part ? I have the part already !
What about the Red wire on the new starter I know 1 hooks up on the right side . on the compressor i have a run capacitor , the top wire goes to the white, but the bottom wire goes to the thermostat .Do i splice the red to that? I would end up with 4 wires spliced together for the red wire on new starter?
Did you figure it out? I’m confused with this… I put white closest to us (that’s how It was before I installed the 3n1) but now the compressor won’t even click…. Before it was at least clicking and warm..
@@kamy4531 before I tried this white was closest to me and that’s how I installed the 3n1 but now it won’t even click on. Wondering if I try how video is if it’ll make a difference
From a contractor: To have a hard start kit installed on your compressor, you can expect to pay anywhere from $300 to $350. Our prices always include the cost of labor and parts. The overall price of a hard start kit is cheaper than paying for a compressor replacement which can be $2,500 or even more. $20 part, 10 minutes work.
Not to be rude, but adding a "power" to "common" makes no sense period. "Common" is Ground back to your electric provider. "Power" is electricity coming in from your electric provider. "Common" is the Path back to the Electricity grid.
So I connected the two wires that give me 120 power to the black power wires. I also hooked up the start, run, and common wires to the compressor and it did not work. I left the third wire that with to the start relay disconnected and my system will not kick on. My compressor checks out with a multimeter but it will not kick on. Do I need to connect that Start Relay wire to the common as he showed in this video?
100% spot on. the common to the compressor from the 2 + 1 is powered internally from the line side L2, L1 hits the start and run., DIY-ers just call a tech before you blow it up or get juiced. Nobody has mention Ohmning out the windings before you order parts from the web.
The term "common" does get misconstrued. When working with Capacitor's like on an air conditioner or compressor common is one leg of a hot that goes to one blade terminal on the capacitor now the other terminal is now boosted to whatever microfarad the capacitor is rated for. A good way to not get mixed up is on the wiring to the main panel it's hot, hot & Neutral. Neutral and ground can only meet up at the main panel NEVER A SUB PANEL.
Thank you. I have had issues with mine. Finally bought this and noticed everyone only had 2 wires. Saw this, did what you said it started right up! Thank you
Did yours work? I did so and it didn’t work but I have the white wire closest to me as that’s how it was before I bought the 3 n 1… i heard a clicking before I installed this now I don’t hear anything.
I appreciate your explanation of left to right with the start and run in relationship to the common. All the videos I saw had the common on the bottom. Mine is on top and I wasn't sure if I had to switch the order
Please note that there are a few major mistakes and issues in this way of wiring.
1) Your run and start wires (left and right on the compressor) are reversed. (If common is on top, Run is the right pin, if common is on the bottom, Run is the left pin.)
2) The black line connected originally to your bottom pin is one of your power lines (Hot). Your blue wire is your 2nd power line (Neutral), which was connected to the Run winding. The reason you have an extra wire is that you have a run capacitor. Your blue power line is also connected to one side of the capacitor, and from the other side you get the pink wire, which needs to directly connect to the compressor’s start pin.
3) Your run capacitor, which was supposed to be in series with your start winding, is now instead connected in parallel to your Hot and Neutral!
So, you need to use the fridge black and blue wires and connect those to the 3n1 black power lines. And you should splice the pink wire to your 3n1 white wire to connect it to your start pin on your compressor. (and don’t forget your reversed Run and Start pins)
I will be surprised if you haven’t damaged your run capacitor and compressor.
Please either remove this video, or make another one with the right wiring to not misguide others. I appreciate your bravery and trying things out! You can refer to this video to fully understand it:
th-cam.com/video/zqhkvXPjtKc/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much. I searched all over google and now help. You r a life saver.
The problem I see with all these videos is what about the on/off/thermostat switch on the outside of your freezer. You know that dial that turns on or off your freezer and you can set it to mid/high/low etc. Anyway the solution was simple. In its original configuration, two wires from the power go to the switch/thermostat. Blue and brown. A third wire coming from the switch/thermostat (black) provided 120 when there is a call for cooling. So simply connect the Supco 1 power lead to that black wire. The blue wire connect to one incoming power. The brown wire will connect to both the Supco and other power wire. Now you can turn off/on your freezer and thermostat control it.
You win the internet today🎉 between this guys video and your solution, I have now solved the puzzle.
I edited this to say that I was wrong. 😂
This is my issue but for some reason it keeps tripping the breaker. It worked for like twenty minutes.😢
I have this exact setup and relay went bad and can definitively say that, contrary to some commenters about the three prong rotation theory, the bottom is common, left is start, right is run. BUT! Unlike tis video the extra "thermostat" wire tripped my breaker when splicing to the common, and the fridge and all its functions only worked with that extra wire connected to one of the power wires. Hope this helps anyone that was flummoxed like i
YOU ARE A GODSEND!!! I spent the whole morning trying to install this thing and then... dang extra wire. Please please please label this one "Supco (U)RCO410 3-in-1 Installation - Leftover Last Wire Hack" for search purposes.
I had to watch 12 before finding yours and watching to find out if you were going to have the same issue.
Bro - thank you, thank you, thank you 🙂. I had the 3rd power wire as well and my compressor fired up as soon as I spliced it into the common wire like u described.
Good Lord man you make that way more complicated than it needs to be. The thermostat turns on both the fan and the compressor. All you need to do is cut the two power wires and connect them to the two black power wires on the three on one. There is no third power wire. The thermostat is just a switch that breaks the circuit. Now, as far as the probes on the compressor if the common is on the top, run is on the right, start is on the left. If the common is on the bottom you just rotate that triangle so now the common is on the bottom, run is on the left, start is on the right .
My thoughts exactly 😅
So I connected the two wires that give me 120 power to the black power wires. I also hooked up the start, run, and common wires to the compressor and it did not work. I left the third wire that with to the start relay disconnected and my system will not kick on. My compressor checks out with a multimeter but it will not kick on. Do I need to connect that Start Relay wire to the common as he showed in this video?
I did the inverter triangle as you said and it is working, but I can't hear when the compressor starts and finish. Question: If I hooked the cables start and run incorrectly, it can still work but maybe frying my compressor by failing to finish it's cycles? 😢
If you wire this thing in wrong and plug it in will it just not start or do you fry the capacitor?
@@alexandersheets1 I asked that to a supco guy via mail and he answered me this:
"No, I have never seen one work that was not wired correctly.".
I also have 3 power lines on my GE side by side, just as you show on the video. I splice it into the common wire, it DID NOT work. Thanks for sharing.
I have same problem. How did you ultimately connect that extra wire? Thanks in advance!
I followed the instructions on the package. If you don't have the package, just google the brand you have and it will give you instruction.@@mikemd2697
Any luck? Mine isn’t working either after that
CSR is how to remember it. And then reading from left to right and down just like reading a book. In your configuration which is an upside down triangle. Common is upper left then reading across would be Start and the middle pin which is down the middle and down would be Run. This is based on my commercial refrigeration training.
My issue is where is the power cables. Or source. This is what I have and wondering if we can just connect the 2 Blk wires to the orange and or white
Great video. My setup is I have 2 wires that connect to starter relay from the capacitor. I have one black one that connects and one yellow. I just ordered this kit. Which wires do I plug in the 2 black wires that's attached to the supko kit?
You wired the 3 to the compressor wrong flip the diagram upside down should be red black white from left to right
I jus fix my fridge with the extra power line thanks for the video 🤗
Where should I connect the two wires (red and white) coming from the fan? I connected everything else but compressor is not on
Thank you very much! Super awesome info.... Much appreciated. 👍 Success!!
Hi Everyone, thank you for the advice and input in these comments. I would like to say that I am not a repairperson and attempted this during the pandemic when I had no work - according to some comments, I did this completely wrong/backwards/dangerously. You may be right, I have no idea as I am not a repairperson! However I would like to share that it is May 2024 and my refrigerator is still running great off of this repair, sooo...🤷. Anyways, best of luck to you all and remember I have no expertise in this, just trying to get by and it seems to still be working. Perhaps next week my fridge will explode...😁
După pornirea compresorului cum procedăm? Rebranșăm la loc compresorul la starterul frigiderului?.
Great video. I wonder why the company has the diagram for white as the start, black as the common, and red as the run, but they have the wires coming out of the mechanism in the order of white, red, then black… Why confuse us? Is there a reason why it is out of order between the diagram and the physical wiring?
How do you know that is the common from the two black in put wire I like to know
It doesn't matter. It's ALTERNATING current.
legend. thanks for this!
Yeah but what if how do you hook up the fan and the thermostat
I put on the 3in1 and now my fan next to it stops. I'm confused because every wire is correct. Thoughts on what I do wrong here??
Did You Find A Fix ?
Yes i do that but coming on and go kix
Mine has 4 wires? Three to starter relay , and then one to the overload ? Any suggestions on how I would wire that up with this part ? I have the part already !
Same. I have a pink and blue across from each other. Then a red wire directly under the blue. There is a black wire to the overload.
Did You Figure It Out ?
I believe you have an inverter compressor. You can not install this kit to inverter compressor.
Mine is the same. Did you ever get it figured out?
Por dentro del arrancador como van conectados
What about the Red wire on the new starter I know 1 hooks up on the right side . on the compressor i have a run capacitor , the top wire goes to the white, but the bottom wire goes to the thermostat .Do i splice the red to that? I would end up with 4 wires spliced together for the red wire on new starter?
Mines comes one, then cut off, what’s the problem?
Sounds like your start & run wire's are reversed. There's a thermal relay in the top of the 3 in 1 the bottom is the capacitor.
So what about the capacitor already with the board and the starter
Ignore it,usually it comes included in the kit
Thank you for the comments.
Had exact prob. Thanks.
I think the red wire (Run) should switch to the white wire (Start) because the compressor connectors are upside down
Did you figure it out? I’m confused with this… I put white closest to us (that’s how It was before I installed the 3n1) but now the compressor won’t even click…. Before it was at least clicking and warm..
I checked online and TH-cam if common pin from top switch down then red wire or run wire should connect from right pin to left pin
@@kamy4531 my common is on bottom. I currently have the white wire closest to me. Is that wrong? Compressor not turning on…
@@kamy4531 before I tried this white was closest to me and that’s how I installed the 3n1 but now it won’t even click on. Wondering if I try how video is if it’ll make a difference
From a contractor: To have a hard start kit installed on your compressor, you can expect to pay anywhere from $300 to $350. Our prices always include the cost of labor and parts. The overall price of a hard start kit is cheaper than paying for a compressor replacement which can be $2,500 or even more.
$20 part, 10 minutes work.
How long does the repair last for usually? Is it a forever fix?
388 Samson Trail
I just tried it and my compressor just exploded… don’t try it unless you know exactly what your doing…
Corbin Ville
Not to be rude, but adding a "power" to "common" makes no sense period. "Common" is Ground back to your electric provider. "Power" is electricity coming in from your electric provider. "Common" is the Path back to the Electricity grid.
So I connected the two wires that give me 120 power to the black power wires. I also hooked up the start, run, and common wires to the compressor and it did not work. I left the third wire that with to the start relay disconnected and my system will not kick on. My compressor checks out with a multimeter but it will not kick on. Do I need to connect that Start Relay wire to the common as he showed in this video?
100% spot on. the common to the compressor from the 2 + 1 is powered internally from the line side L2, L1 hits the start and run., DIY-ers just call a tech before you blow it up or get juiced. Nobody has mention Ohmning out the windings before you order parts from the web.
I have the extra black wire (believe it’s thermostat) where would that go on here?
The term "common" does get misconstrued. When working with Capacitor's like on an air conditioner or compressor common is one leg of a hot that goes to one blade terminal on the capacitor now the other terminal is now boosted to whatever microfarad the capacitor is rated for. A good way to not get mixed up is on the wiring to the main panel it's hot, hot & Neutral. Neutral and ground can only meet up at the main panel NEVER A SUB PANEL.
Does this mostly fix lg refrigerators?
Adams Center
Mills Loaf
Alexanne Land
German Land
You must be from where joe Rogan is from