Every time i have to do refrigeration work i check your videos out, i do commercial and residential hv/ac 99% of the time, ones in a while i get a call for refrigeration. Thanks for the videos!
Dave, Thanks for showing the parts you use and the tip on the 3-in-1 for run caps. Knowing what universal parts can be substituted for some of the OEM stuff is a big help.
Thanks for a concise thought out video. Thumbs up with a question. Start relay in my GE Frig went out last Friday - of course. Checking online the Hard Start seemed to be a good fix. The BIG problem was finding out the correct model. Amazon saying the 410 "might" not fit my model. Finally today, Monday, after chasing my tail, got a great guy at Supco Tech Support. I had sent him a photo of the plate on the frig, BUT, what matters is the amps on the compressor itself (I'm sure you know this; just saying it for other idiots like me). Told me either the 810 or 410 would work. I ask him which one he would put on his frig for HIS wife and he said the 410. I ran to my local store and bought one over the counter instead of waiting on a two day ship from the big A. It was $29 but a small price to pay and I feel better dealing with faces. One other thing to point out because there's a lot on differing info about these things. $29 is cheaper than the cost of the start up and overload relays. And "my guy" told me they are much more efficient. They sell a TON of them - 410 is the only one they keep in stock and he told me, "yeah, I keep some in my truck all the time". BUT My question - my brown power input lines go into some connectors, then come out as the orange (red?), white, and black leads into the relays. Which of these 3 should I connect to the 2 black input lines? (does that make sense?) I hope you can help and thanks again!
I get a lot of slack using universal parts, but I tell you what universal parts will get out if a bind if it is after hours or weekends. My speciality is HVAC and that is all that I stock is universal parts, 90% of the time I can get heat or cooling going. Another reason is a lot of OEM parts are getting ridiculous on cost.
Love it 15 amp residential receptacle in a restaurant no GFI no cover in Florida all restaurant kitchen equipment bar refrigerators glass chillers everything has to be GFI at the source or breaker
Very good video but I would like to add I have had those 3 in 1 start kits burn out compressors before because sometimes the overload within are not adjusted/ calibrated properly from the factory, so for extra safety I wire the original overload in line with the start kit also when I install any component with an overload I make sure that the over loads are working ..ie..short cycle the compressor. Anyhow keep up the good work Gents I have been following you, Alex and DUDE for sometime now and I am sure the new guys are learning good stuff from your Videos, see you on the next one .Oh yeah shout out to DUDE for putting me onto the NEBO SLIDE KING . Chris Ellis from Trinidad in the Caribbean. .
I used one of those 3 in 1s on my 1992 Maytag fridge that I refuse to replace. Running like new again! I should have watched this video first it was pretty helpful
Dave you are very correct and I still use them to this day as I had the mentioned problem a few times but as I said just for extra protection I wire in the original over load, Happy New year from the Caribbean Bro.
GREAT content, keep it up! I've been bit in the class cheeks for using the orange wire balls on the 3N1. I've been using some crimps with some success.
Headed for trouble removing that thermal hair blanket and protective plastic bag! Happy New Year! Just home from a 20 year old 15 ton Aaon furnace call myself.. Rollout connection rotten inside blade connector.. Easy money..
A great video Davey! Very nice on the explanation of swapping the old start components for a get you by . Or if they want to leave it..but I know how you do . Awesome man
I keep one of these wired up with short piece of extension cord and use it as a tester. Bypass temp control and the unit's wiring, just direct connect to compressor.
Nice quick hitter Dave. Maybe for the benefit of the young guys, our policy was to use a 3 in 1 on weekends or night calls, but to return later and replace the start components with OEM stuff. What do the other guys who read you think about this? Some claim the 3 in 1 is just fine for long term and others do not, it was just our company policy to return equipment to OEM condition. I have no feelings either way, I just did what the boss told me, but it would be fun hearing different opinions. Rock on!
I tested the capacitor on the compressor on my Amana fridge for continuity and there was none. So, I bought the Supco 3 in 1 start and hooked the white wire on the left pin, red wire on the right pin and the black wire on top pin. Hooked the two black power wires to fridge power wires. I plugged the fridge power cord into the outlet and nothing happened. I opened the freezer door and turned the temp control knob at little, and then the compressor started up. It ran for maybe an hour or so. I checked the freezer compartment, and it didn't seem to be below freezing yet. I had to leave the house for a couple hours and when I came home, the compressor was no longer running. I checked the freezer compartment, and it still didn't seem below freezing. I turned the temp control knob again to see if it would start the compressor again, but no luck. I'm wondering if the control in the freezer is bad, or is the compressor bad? Any ideas? I bought it new in 2011 or 2012, so it doesn't seem like it should be ready to put on the curb yet. LOL
I used to sing praises about those Supco 3 in 1s and their 2 wire hard starts for HVAC, then I found out how miserable the PTC start "relays" (same as the "burning barrels" you have found in RTUs in the past) are and their tendency to fail short circuit leading to compressor BBQ.
Hey Dave when it comes to start capacitors I know u don't wanna go lower on mfd rating n voltage. But can u replace with a higher mfd rating with same voltage to try n get unit running? I put a 3n1 on a unit that had previously had a start cap mfd 161-190 n the urco 210 has a mfd 243-292. Is that ok to get it going n for future calls?
Hello Dave, How many ampere are these wire nuts allowed in usa? It is a great technique, unfortunately here in germany prohibited. many greetings, get well with your cold. Happy New Year
wire nuts are meant to hold the wires together in contact and keep them from coming apart, more so than carrying any current. which is why wire should be properly twisted together. which is why I'm not crazy about WAGO's and other magical push-in/push-on connectors, I've seen too many "push in" style devices fail over the years and a bunch in series on longer circuits you end up with low curren, with large voltage drops at the end, not good for motor starting... it cannot be good overall ;) I see it most often in newer homes that were wired with all the "new junk" technology and lazy methods. it really shows when trying to run a compressor or other high draw tools directly plugged into the outlets as well as other high draw tools (one at a time) the compressor often wont restart with any pressure in the tank at all and yes the check valves and head releases are good..
Hi, I heard the 3N1 can fry/damage the compressor depending on the type of the compressor even if you choose the correct HP rating. It can lead to compressor death after a few months. its just temporary fix. Is that true?
There’s plenty running for years with 3n1, it was shop policy to use them as temporary and get oem start components. I have had good luck with the Ru210 3n1.
ohm out your terminals. S-Com will be your highest ohms. R-Com will be lower. R-Start will be the total of the S&R ohm readings That being said 95% of compressors are pinned the same as what you see. with com on the top, start on the left and run on the right. I usually think (C)an (S)he (R)un
Josh_Gump Engineering Kind of like north east south and west, N(ever)E(at)S(oggy)W(affles) Are there any terminals that you’ve seen that have not been pinned in that direction?
Awesome vid ! the supco Rc-0210 kit. Never Leave home without it. ! that particular kit is on steroids. have not seen the run cap option model. it must be new. where u get that one ?
mr. ice - i use johnstone all the time - last time i got one it was just the regular rc0210. they must have just changed the model. i hope the new ones hold up like the old ones.
Every time i have to do refrigeration work i check your videos out, i do commercial and residential hv/ac 99% of the time, ones in a while i get a call for refrigeration. Thanks for the videos!
Your welcome
This fall, it will be 13 years since I put a 3-in-1 on my old GE fridge at home. The PTCR had fractured. Worked like a charm.
Dave, Thanks for showing the parts you use and the tip on the 3-in-1 for run caps. Knowing what universal parts can be substituted for some of the OEM stuff is a big help.
Thanks for a concise thought out video. Thumbs up with a question.
Start relay in my GE Frig went out last Friday - of course. Checking online the Hard Start seemed to be a good fix. The BIG problem was finding out the correct model. Amazon saying the 410 "might" not fit my model. Finally today, Monday, after chasing my tail, got a great guy at Supco Tech Support. I had sent him a photo of the plate on the frig, BUT, what matters is the amps on the compressor itself (I'm sure you know this; just saying it for other idiots like me). Told me either the 810 or 410 would work. I ask him which one he would put on his frig for HIS wife and he said the 410.
I ran to my local store and bought one over the counter instead of waiting on a two day ship from the big A.
It was $29 but a small price to pay and I feel better dealing with faces.
One other thing to point out because there's a lot on differing info about these things.
$29 is cheaper than the cost of the start up and overload relays. And "my guy" told me they are much more efficient. They sell a TON of them - 410 is the only one they keep in stock and he told me, "yeah, I keep some in my truck all the time".
BUT
My question - my brown power input lines go into some connectors, then come out as the orange (red?), white, and black leads into the relays. Which of these 3 should I connect to the 2 black input lines?
(does that make sense?)
I hope you can help and thanks again!
I get a lot of slack using universal parts, but I tell you what universal parts will get out if a bind if it is after hours or weekends. My speciality is HVAC and that is all that I stock is universal parts, 90% of the time I can get heat or cooling going. Another reason is a lot of OEM parts are getting ridiculous on cost.
The refrigeration Ninja at it again !! ✌🏼Happy and Healthy NewYear to you and the Family Dave!!
Vic Villalta happy new year Vic
Love it 15 amp residential receptacle in a restaurant no GFI no cover in Florida all restaurant kitchen equipment bar refrigerators glass chillers everything has to be GFI at the source or breaker
Hello your refrigeration technicians,
Thanks for the interesting answers.
Happy New Year i love ur cooling videos
The 3-in-1 is a great part. I have one keeping my old GE fridge alive, since September of '06, when the PTCR broke into several pieces.
Supco saves the day! Good item to keep on the truck.
Sounds like you're feeling better Dave!
Thanks for all you do brotha!
Very good video but I would like to add I have had those 3 in 1 start kits burn out compressors before because sometimes the overload within are not adjusted/ calibrated properly from the factory, so for extra safety I wire the original overload in line with the start kit also when I install any component with an overload I make sure that the over loads are working ..ie..short cycle the compressor. Anyhow keep up the good work Gents I have been following you, Alex and DUDE for sometime now and I am sure the new guys are learning good stuff from your Videos, see you on the next one .Oh yeah shout out to DUDE for putting me onto the NEBO SLIDE KING . Chris Ellis from Trinidad in the Caribbean. .
CHRIS ELLIS I’ve had good luck with these as long as it’s a small compressor under 1/2 HP.
Even among the small compressors there are at least different "universal 3n1 kits based on fractional hp rating size.
Nice way to fix that start relay with a 3 in one
I used one of those 3 in 1s on my 1992 Maytag fridge that I refuse to replace. Running like new again! I should have watched this video first it was pretty helpful
Dave you are very correct and I still use them to this day as I had the mentioned problem a few times but as I said just for extra protection I wire in the original over load, Happy New year from the Caribbean Bro.
Dave, You're a diagnostic MACHINE! HAPPY NEW YEAR dude!
Dave, amazing how often dirty coil is among the offenses that you catch and it is likely a contributing factor to other failures. Another great video.
Gary Dudgeon no one dose maintenance out here, they call when it breaks.
Nice job Dave glad ur feeling better
Great video Dave, I like your repair vids the best. Happy new year, all the best to you and your family in 2019.
404 Refrigeration thank you and happy New Years.
GREAT content, keep it up!
I've been bit in the class cheeks for using the orange wire balls on the 3N1.
I've been using some crimps with some success.
Headed for trouble removing that thermal hair blanket and protective plastic bag!
Happy New Year! Just home from a 20 year old 15 ton Aaon furnace call myself..
Rollout connection rotten inside blade connector..
Easy money..
A great video Davey! Very nice on the explanation of swapping the old start components for a get you by . Or if they want to leave it..but I know how you do . Awesome man
Digging the new ending music, Happy New Year🤙
Scrolling past semi current events......wait a NORCAL from 4 yrs ago I haven't watched before?..... I'm clicking!
I keep one of these wired up with short piece of extension cord and use it as a tester. Bypass temp control and the unit's wiring, just direct connect to compressor.
He’s a super tech
Super tech
No.. I remember he had his super tech card pulled in one of his videos
Excellent job Dave 👍👍👍
Soy tu fan soy estudiante de refrigeración
Great video, learned something new, thanks for sharing.
Feliz Ano novo Dave.
Lucio Cenzi happy new year Lucio👍👍
Just a sugestion i think it would be a good idea when u find a blown relay to also do a continuity and ground test .just to make sure.
Saved another one 👍 Happy New year brother
McCutcheon Services LLC happy new year McCutcheon
Another super vid’. Thanks Dave!
Chuck DeArruda thanks Chuck
supco musta made a zillion dollars on this 3in1 unit.
And more power to them!
Nice quick hitter Dave. Maybe for the benefit of the young guys, our policy was to use a 3 in 1 on weekends or night calls, but to return later and replace the start components with OEM stuff. What do the other guys who read you think about this? Some claim the 3 in 1 is just fine for long term and others do not, it was just our company policy to return equipment to OEM condition. I have no feelings either way, I just did what the boss told me, but it would be fun hearing different opinions. Rock on!
Repete Myname it was the same when I worked for the local shop. I’ve been leaving them in if it’s a smaller compressor. So far so good.
@@NorCal-refrigeration : Works for me!
Super Dave strikes again. Great video Dave
Felipe Tafolla that’s what I was up to yesterday 😂😂
Nor-Cal Refrigeration & H.V.A.C 😬🤭 3 in one to the rescue
Happy New year Dave 👍
Stuart Jomes happy new years
Happy sounds!
Ive used these a lot. Also ive had bad start caps actually read high.
Happy new year!!!
Alex Egorov happy New Years Alex
I tested the capacitor on the compressor on my Amana fridge for continuity and there was none. So, I bought the Supco 3 in 1 start and hooked the white wire on the left pin, red wire on the right pin and the black wire on top pin. Hooked the two black power wires to fridge power wires. I plugged the fridge power cord into the outlet and nothing happened. I opened the freezer door and turned the temp control knob at little, and then the compressor started up. It ran for maybe an hour or so. I checked the freezer compartment, and it didn't seem to be below freezing yet. I had to leave the house for a couple hours and when I came home, the compressor was no longer running. I checked the freezer compartment, and it still didn't seem below freezing. I turned the temp control knob again to see if it would start the compressor again, but no luck. I'm wondering if the control in the freezer is bad, or is the compressor bad? Any ideas? I bought it new in 2011 or 2012, so it doesn't seem like it should be ready to put on the curb yet. LOL
I used to sing praises about those Supco 3 in 1s and their 2 wire hard starts for HVAC, then I found out how miserable the PTC start "relays" (same as the "burning barrels" you have found in RTUs in the past) are and their tendency to fail short circuit leading to compressor BBQ.
sivalley on these small fractional compressors they work fine. It’s always best to OEM on start components if u can.
Hey Dave when it comes to start capacitors I know u don't wanna go lower on mfd rating n voltage. But can u replace with a higher mfd rating with same voltage to try n get unit running? I put a 3n1 on a unit that had previously had a start cap mfd 161-190 n the urco 210 has a mfd 243-292. Is that ok to get it going n for future calls?
Great video. Thx. Keep ‘em comin.
Awesome video Dave what coil cleaner do you use on your indoor units like this?
Mike The Tech Home Depot 5$ a can stuff.
I’m a big fan of the viper coil cleaner. It’s in a red can and foams just like this. Get it at Johnstone
great vid , love music at end.
Greg Mccarthy that’s a prince song that didn’t get released
Hello Dave, How many ampere are these wire nuts allowed in usa? It is a great technique, unfortunately here in germany prohibited.
many greetings, get well with your cold.
Happy New Year
walter f. I pretty sure for each color of wire nut it is the same as what the rating of the same color wire. BUT I could be wrong.
walter f. Great question I’ve honestly never looked it up. It’s aloud here, but most things are.
wire nuts are meant to hold the wires together in contact and keep them from coming apart, more so than carrying any current. which is why wire should be properly twisted together.
which is why I'm not crazy about WAGO's and other magical push-in/push-on connectors, I've seen too many "push in" style devices fail over the years and a bunch in series on longer circuits you end up with low curren, with large voltage drops at the end, not good for motor starting... it cannot be good overall ;)
I see it most often in newer homes that were wired with all the "new junk" technology and lazy methods. it really shows when trying to run a compressor or other high draw tools directly plugged into the outlets as well as other high draw tools (one at a time) the compressor often wont restart with any pressure in the tank at all and yes the check valves and head releases are good..
Can’t rule out low voltage at the outlet (Under load). So many times I’ve seen shared circuits that cause the exact issue you had.
Guillermo Martin I checked it. It was good and dedicated for that unit.
yeah, that happens all too often, it causes yelling screaming and ranting at everyone ( by me) :))
Easy fix, good one.Dave
Done like easy for the Nor Cal Man!
Paul HVAC thanks Paul. 👍
nice Job bro
Good fix Super Dave ... Kind of that music at the end ...
Hi, I heard the 3N1 can fry/damage the compressor depending on the type of the compressor even if you choose the correct HP rating. It can lead to compressor death after a few months. its just temporary fix. Is that true?
There’s plenty running for years with 3n1, it was shop policy to use them as temporary and get oem start components. I have had good luck with the Ru210 3n1.
Good job 👍
FC Refrigeration thanks for watching
I wonder when they will come up with some for R290 units? (Not fire/arc resistant)
Mike Reed great question
Nice work
Otis Hanna thanks for watching
What kind of camera are you using ?
iPhone 8+
Plastic bags and wax paper in condenser is common I find. And as usual lots of grease and dirt. Relay was well done lol
Roy Amberg 😂😂 it was
But uncle Dave! What if there is no
C R S indicator on the cap OR a wiring diagram?!?! How do I find C R & S????
ohm out your terminals. S-Com will be your highest ohms. R-Com will be lower. R-Start will be the total of the S&R ohm readings
That being said 95% of compressors are pinned the same as what you see. with com on the top, start on the left and run on the right. I usually think (C)an (S)he (R)un
Josh_Gump Engineering
Kind of like north east south and west, N(ever)E(at)S(oggy)W(affles)
Are there any terminals that you’ve seen that have not been pinned in that direction?
I haven't but I'm based in industrial so it's almost all 3 phase 600 volt
Easy money
Running Coyote all day.
I just ran a call Dave with one of those hard start kit blown up compressor is junk ha ha
Damn Dave, I hope you can finally get over that crud. I know it's miserable working like that. 🤮
Shannon Knight HVAC I’m good, just took down all the Christmas 🎄 lights and tree while my 49ers puked all over themselves 😂😂😂🤘
nice one!!!
Another multiple offender, now will you leave the 3 n 1 on there or will you go back and put the oem parts on it?
Michael Balke I’ll leave
Dont these restaurant people know to clean condenser coil?At least Management should know.
3-in one will get you out of a pinch
Had a bag in it and a sweater lmao
amp it
Awesome vid ! the supco Rc-0210 kit. Never Leave home without it. ! that particular kit is on steroids. have not seen the run cap option model. it must be new. where u get that one ?
you can get that one from ebay
I buy them from Johnstone Supply
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. Amazon all day.
@ norcal - thanks !
mr. ice - i use johnstone all the time - last time i got one it was just the regular rc0210. they must have just changed the model. i hope the new ones hold up like the old ones.