Important Note! I know I will get questions and comments about this so I wanted to pass this along. From what I have observed and experienced myself, the soft starters will go in and out of stock during hurricane season as they are in very high demand. I also have links to the older models listed in the description as they work similarly to the Flex. The biggest differences are the previous models are bigger and need specific sizing. So check back regularly. I am curious though, what are your thoughts on these and do you personally have any experience with them?
@@jimreeds9731-not exactly sure who this is directed to? Are you an AC guy that does this sort of work and you are saying your customers are incompetent when you are telling them they need this? Is that your beef?
I have had one on my 6ton AC unit, and love it, plus easy to understand and install. Thanks for the review and update. My in-rush dropped from something like 105LRA to 49A! No issues.
Installed the day before Hurricane Milton. Lost power and was able to run the entire house with AC on my 6500 watt generator. Best $300 I’ve spent this year 😂
Installed the Flex two weeks ago. Self installed super easy thanks to all those that shared their install. I have a Goodman 3 ton unit and went from 77 amps to 17.8 amps
@@Hurpdurpdipidydooinrush current is too quick to trip a breaker, go outside to your outdoor unit, look at the data plate, look for LRA, that is the inrush current max rating, some units go over 100.
@@Hurpdurpdipidydoo Meters don’t lie. I think 🤔 Anyway, you don’t need an 80 amp breaker as the momentary high amp draw is so short that it will not trip the breaker, but it will trip a generator. I’m not an electrician so any out there please chime in so we can all be enlightened.
The problem is that a lot of people don’t really pay attention to the videos…or just answer comments without viewing them…the inrush on this video was 121a, since “meters don’t lie” I’d say that was a lot higher than yours.
As an electrical engineering tech with over 40 years experience, this is the best instructional video I’ve ever seen. Well done sir, and I’m buying one of these amazing units and installing on my heat pump immediately. Too bad you’re not getting any financial benefit, but it’s good of you to pass on the information.
These will shorten compressor life. He misquoted on the hard start. A hard start kit is a starting capacitor used in conjunction with potential relay which supplies inrush voltage and reduces amperage. PTCR devices haven’t been used since 80s.(28 yrs experience as a HVACR/Mechanical Contractor)
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you are finding so much value in the content. Thanks a ton for the feedback and Super Thanks Jack! I really do appreciate it!
I installed the prior model on my home AC even though I don't have a generator. It's awesome. The lights no longer dim on AC startup, I'm no longer woken up by the clank of the compressor starting at night, and it has overcurrent shutdown protection that saved me a very expensive compressor replacement when my capacitor gave out.
If lights dim on startup, you might want to investigate the real reason instead of treating the symptoms. Usually insufficient incoming capacity, too small wire to the unit, bad connections, etc.
@@crazysquirrel9425 one leg of the crimp at the weatherhead was failing, even after it was fixed this continued. It AC has 8 gauge all good connections straight back to the breaker box. The box is 150 amps, and it does this with only the AC and a few lighting loads. It's a 28 year old AC and I don't have a high enough resolution amp meter since your average one can't read correct LRA but I expect it is much higher compared to newer compressors.
@@colinnwn Voltage drop from pole to house? Weak connections at the pole? Aluminum wiring from pole to house? Wrong gauge wiring from substation to pole? Too many people (houses) on the supply line? With a 150 amp box, you should have any blinking. Maybe the neutral is one issue? Or maybe you just have a bad compressor? Takes a long time to figure out the issue(s) sometimes.
@@crazysquirrel9425 voltage sag on one leg on the house side caused by bad splice at the weatherhead. But dimming (not flickering) had been happening since we moved in 7 years prior, and continued 4 years after that fix until I installed the soft starter. No neutral issues. I do have aluminum service drop. Lineman from my TDSP came out and identified that issue. If he didn't investigate your other possibilities not much I can do about it. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a 'tired' compressor. But it has run for many years that way and I'll run it till it has a functional problem. A soft starter was a more economical fix than a new $15k system until then.
@@colinnwn All moving parts wear even with lubricant. For an old system, it is quite possible that the compressor oil thickened with wear particles. Think along the lines of dirty oil in a car motor. An AC tech should be able to do an oil test, even recover, filter, and replace the refrigerant and oil plus add in a new line filter. Again, think changing your motor oil and filter here. Newer lubricants are better than the old ones too. Doesn't hurt to give a company a call and ask a few questions. If they tell you that it doesn't do that then call another company. If necessary call an HVAC school. Soft start is just a band aid of sorts. No different than using thinner oil so your car stars easier. But that is a tradeoff... One of the biggest problems with new A/C's is the very LOW quality they make the parts now. Especially the coils. Hard to clean the outside parts of the coils and the inside parts clog easily due to a sorta spongy metal they have in the coils. Not all use that but many do. And the metal is THIN. Made to leak just after the warranty is up. Or about every 5-10 years. You could just have the compressor changed out thus giving new life to your system. A good tech can do it in about 1/2 day or so. Having them flush your lines can remove contaminants too. Hint: the longer and deeper the vacuum on a system, the longer the system can last. Some techs cheat on this part to keep prices low. Vacuum needs to be less than 500 microns for 1 hour and only change to the vacuum is 1psig. 200 would be great! Moves more than 1psig or above 500 microns for 1 hour, more vacuum is needed or you have a leak somewhere. If they go deeper than 200 then it vaporizes the oil in the compressor.
I'm really surprised it's not. Is this device just for old systems, or do they still sell AC like this in the USA? In New Zealand and Australia, they are all inverter models and have been for a very long time (15-20 years?) - the compressor varies it's speed. Once the room achieves the set temperature it does not necessarily switch the compressor off, it keeps it running at a slower speed to maintain that temperature. That also means they always soft start.
@@ColHunterGathersperhaps they should leave the gas ovens alone and focus on increased energy production and efficiency. This would drive costs down for just about everything.
I think you did a great job on this one. Very informative. You took a beating in some of the comments, but I think that's just due to people's lack of understanding, skepticism, and the cost of the unit.
Fantastic video. Forget the installation instructions that come with a Micro-Air Easy Start. This video makes it so much easier to understand. Took 15 minutes to hook up and that included drilling a hole to run the cable through.
I started using Micro Air Soft starts years ago on our camper's AC. We lived in South Louisiana and when we travel, I can place a 2300 watt generator in the bed of the truck and power one of the AC's, run the camper's residential refrigerator, and battery charger. When we stop for a break, the inside of the camper is comfortable enough for a nap, have a meal, or just relax, no matter where we are. Before the soft start, the generator's breaker would kick out every time the compressor would come on. After seeing how well that worked on the camper, I installed a Micro Air soft start on the condenser on the house. I have a 5500 Watt generator that I had been running for the house. Before the soft start I couldn't run the central AC on the 5500 W generator. Sometimes the AC would start, sometimes it wouldn't, but it was cringing listening to the strain on the condenser and the generator. I kept 3 window units on hand and would place them in the windows ahead of a hurricane. I could run those on the 5500 W generator without issue, but that was a pain in the ... I thought about the soft start on the camper and figured that that should take care of the house AC. I purchased the appropriate Micro Air Soft Start and installed it. Don't let the pre-read of the instructions scare you. When you sit in front of the AC and the Micro-Air and take one step at a time, it's easy. I ended up going through about 8 or 9 hurricanes after the micro air install, running on generator from a few hours to several weeks, all running on that 5500 W generator running our whole house. The Micro Air Soft Start was worth every single penny spent!!!! We have since moved to Central Florida and one of my first tasks was to install the soft starts on both condensers (new house is twice the size and 2 stories). I had inherited a 12,000 W generator when my father passed. That will run just about anything, but uses twice the fuel (I installed a tri-fuel kit where I can run gasoline, propane, or natural gas). I have set up the new house to be able to use either generator. With the soft starts in place, I can run one central AC unit on the 5500W generator. I can get both AC's to start and run for about a minute or so, then the breaker trips on the 5500 W generator. Has nothing to do with the starting, but with the running amperage. What it does prove is how valuable the soft starts are, that I can get both AC's started and running. I took meter readings and all that good stuff, but I purposely didn't include them in this comment. For most people, real applications make the most sense. Bottom line, if you plan on using a generator to run your house in the event of a power outage, and would like would like to run your central AC, include a soft start as part of that plan or current setup. You won't be disappointed. BTW, I have installed several on friend's RVs and houses. I haven't heard of one failure, or even one negative comment.
@@Wes_Sherman I have a 50 amp plug/ box, with the proper plug leaving female plug on the cord). The box is wired with 6 gauge wire (for the 50 amp possible feed) to the top slot in the breaker panel with a disconnect/ Interlock that only allows the breaker to be placed into the on position when the main breaker is in the off position. I put a 50 amp female plug on the end of my 30 amp cord for the 5500 watt gen. This setup allows me to use either my 5500 W or my 12.5 kW generator by having 2 different cords.
Been running one for four years making it possible to start my 4 ton A/C with our Duromax 12Kw generator. It works exactly as advertised. The A/C guy who installed it said he had never installed one but was amazed at the inrush current reduction. His exact words were this thing will greatly extend the life of your compressor.
Thank you, just installed the Flex soft start on my 4 ton system. Inrush amps before install was 119 ampsand after the soft start install went down to 34 amps. Running whole house on a costco A-iPower GXS7100iRD 7100W Dual Fuel Inverter Generator. Running at about 4.4 kw with ac runing i do hear the generator bog down for less than a second when compressor kicks on but then runs well below its max running watts of 5,700 watts on fossil fuel. Followed the wiring exactly as described and worked like a charm.
As a homeowner for over 12 years and having the ASY-368-X48-BLUE unit for about 3 years; it has saved me on at least 2 HVAC truck roll calls. The going rate in my area for a bad run capacitor is about $125 part included. Speaking from experience of the situation of a bad run capacitor, when the compressor goes into thermal overload; the housing of the compressor will hot enough to fry an egg on it. The conundrum is how long has this been going on before you discovered it. The EasyStart unit has the brains learn what is normal and what's not then does its thing quietly in the background. For those who are on the fence about purchasing one, it's not an inexpensive device. If you have plans to run your A/C on solar backup battery or generator during a grid outage, definitely save up for it. I've kept myself cool during an 8+ hour outage when it was 92°F feels like 116 outside is priceless. PSA: when the inevitable time comes to replacing a bad run capacitor, I highly recommend to initiate the relearn process after the new capacitor is installed. It'll work fine if you don't do it, but it doesn't hurt to have the soft start optimize itself with the new capacitor. Another benefit is that when your old unit needs to be replace, it can be transferred to the new unit and relearned.
I’ve had one for 5 years now, it’s been great. So glad I installed it! We had several power outages and my 6k generator was able to start the AC every time. Also, I am hopeful it will extend the life of my 10 year old AC unit. Other than a blown capacitor (indicated by overcurrent fault code on the soft start LEDs) I have had 0 issues.
I have the old model and it reduced me from 127LRA to 24 amps. Very impressive. Works great under generator power. I was never able to get the Bluetooth app working, but Micro-air saw my comment on one of their videos and contacted me right away and got me set up on the app. Amazing company and WONDERFUL easy start.
@@jamesbsa6450 Actually, the app is great and allows me access to reset and to see all the trouble codes (there were none) Amongst other things. The app will only work while the unit is running.
@@HectorFabela-k6u isnt that the whoooole point of installing a soft start kit, to reduce the LRA? (That was a rhetorical question, btw). RLA isnt affected by a "soft start kit", the name sorta gives it away.
Ordered a Flex this morning to be installed in the spring. Increasing longevity on the AC, and making it easier on my inverter gen to start it is a no-brainer. Being older, everything I do these days is geared to make everything last longer, cost less, and be more reliable. Failure generally occurs at the worst time, right? More points of failure will be reduced. Thanks for this.
installed the older version of this 6 months ago, what a difference! no blinking of lights and now I have zero issues running the whole house off my generator.
A couple of notes on the Soft Start and inrush current. A multimeter averages the inrush over a 100 mSec sample time typically. If the inrush takes longer than that it will give a good reading. If less then it will read low. Since inrush normally will be between 100 and 150 mSec this is not normally a problem. But if you have a hard start, it will reduce the time to around 50 mSec, so the reading on the meter can be nearly half of the actual. This has confused many people who think that a hard start also decreases the inrush current, when in reality it increases it but decreases the time. Some contactors have spade lug quick connects instead of screw terminals. For those you do not have to cut any wires at all, but simply install the mating lugs on the soft start wires to properly connect. Mounting of the soft start can be simplified by screwing Rubber Coated Neodymium Magnets for feet on the unit and hanging it anywhere on the steel housing you want.
Thanks! I had been wondering why my hard-start showed less inrush amps then the soft-start, but the soft-start was the only device allowing startup on generator!
@Sam-ys4pc it is 60hz and a clamp meter can read the soft start. Ignore this guy. He doesn’t understand how this works and has told some pretty wild stories in another thread. He has no experience with it but somehow is an expert. 😂. Only thing he got right is you won’t be able to read a hard start in rush reading as it is too fast and the meter can’t capture it. Can easily verify this with a simple search. It’s not because it isn’t 60 hz either because it is. 🤪
100% I got to use with new a/c with generator. Old ac ran no problem but new had issues. New a/c I could hear and see when the compressor kicked on. With the micro air it is quiet, and I no longer hear the startup of the unit or see it. I.e no power surge. I do believe it is much easier on my compressor.
I'd suggest folks consider using a Wago 221-612 on the white/brown wires like the Hutch Mountain kit. Why? You're leaving the original connection in place and splice in. There have been a wave of melting capacitors on the last batch of the Micro-Air B34 units. With the Wago it's easy to remove without having to re-terminate the two wires.
@@p.b.7861 it’s not clear where the cut off is but look at the sticker inside the top of the clear housing with the barcode, not box or outer sticker those can differ. It has a barcode. It should read 398-X2S. Below B37. For what it’s worth my 398-X1S B36 just failed and I thought I was in the clear.
Put one of these in three years ago. Still going strong and ran A/C through two hurricanes and several power outages. Fiber optic internet stayed in service too. Crazy. Portable generator and soft starter combo installed DIY for under 1600.00. I've been through power loss in many hurricanes for two weeks to a month. It's miserable. Never again!
Great video. I'm glad this works for you guys. Just one thing, as a licensed electrician, I need to stress to you to use the connector manufactured for the application. Do not use a sealtite (either metal or plastic) connector or a rubber bushing for the micro-air cord. Use the proper size cord grip connector. Also, nice work using the Klein ratcheting terminal crimper.
On my old single stage unit I had installed a "hard start" device so it didn't slam all the power at once on start up as this does bad things to the unit over time. Well my old unit finally expired after 13 years. I now had a Daikin Fit inverter system installed and .... with the inverter system the power starts very low and ramps up after the unit starts. The unit is super quiet and you have to be standing next to it to even tell if it's on. Happy happy with the Daikin Fit !!
I installed one last year - not so much for use with a generator but because the unit outside is a little bit more quiet since my outdoor unit is right outside my living room wall. Well worth it! They also offer an install kit that provides the liquid tight fitting and other miscellaneous bits like the spade connectors that makes the install trivial. It's like $10 and also well worth it.
@@Sam-ys4pc I didn't get it to run on a generator. I got it (as I stated originally) to quite the compressor down - which it did just enough to make it barely noticeable in my living room. All you are revealing with your underpowered generator comment is your utter ignorance of basic electricity and how motors work 🙄
@DocNo27 he’s commenting all over this video. The more he talks the more he exposes how little he knows about it. Glad to hear it was able to quiet your unit down!
I bought one going on 2 years ago for my 5-ton unit here in Arizona. It sees a lot of run time and is controlled by 2 thermostats....that means it could shut off after satisfying one zone and then start back up within seconds later for the other zone. The compressor is made for that, no stalling. I wasn't sure of the original starting amps before I installed it, by now after looking at the APP, I see14,000+ starts and I think it's going to make the compressor live a lot longer. The "Last Start Peak" amps was 34A. I'd say that's pretty respectable. FYI, the APP is only visible via Bluetooth when the unit is running.
Installed the original on my 25 year old 10 seer ruud a couple years ago and it has been working flawlessly. In fact it has even safely cut power to my unit a few times when real faults occurred that might otherwise be dangerous like when the compressor wires rusted off the posts and started shorting. That might have easily saved me an entire system replacement plus it actually told me exactly what was wrong so I could fix it myself through their diagnostic app. I just wish their app could connect with the unit even when there is no call for air and ideally have it connect via WiFi and integrate into smart homes via matter. Haven't noticed any drop in energy bills but it is quieter. Hoping to get another 25 years out of it.
I stopped reading your comment when you claimed the compressor wires rusted. Next time you make up a story that you want people to believe, try not to break laws of science, ok?
I have 4 Ton unit and working great on portable generator during recent Texas storms! Game changer, and the new Flex unit just came out after mine but nice to see improvements too! ❤🎉
Ive heard that if i have a 50 amp generator but my ac is a 60 (which mine is) it will not work. Will these make it work due to the soft start being added, by chance do you know?
I have a 24KW get set that just could not get a 5 ton A/C unit running with the other 4 smaller units I have. I added the EasyStart to the 5 ton two years ago and with frequent power outages it has done its job perfectly. Excellent product and they have great support. Like he says make sure you get the right one for your unit.
Installed mine July 13th the moment I learned of this new model. So glad I waited for this smaller unit I would never have been able to install the larger model inside my unit. Has been working fine since I installed it. Noticeable difference in noise of the unit starting up.
Awesome video. My unit came today, followed your instructions and took about an hour, mounting and all. We have a heat pump so it should benefit us all year round.
I have the older model and it still works great with bluetooth. I covered it up so it's not in direct sunlight. No need to upgrade to the new one, it's just smaller. Still hard to start/run a 5 ton with a generator. 2 PowerWall 3's to be installed very soon.
These work, installed mine a few days ago on a 14yr old 5 ton Carrier. LRA was 117a, then after install 23.7a. A huge improvement. Haven't tried a generator yet.
thanks for sharing. this is a $400 device. I installed 2 timer relays on my HAVC system ($5). When the thermostat starts the inside blower fan, the first timer wait 10 sec and then start the compressor fan, then the second timer it setup at 20 second which waits another 10 seconds after the compressor fan to start the compressor. total AMP to kick it all is 20AMP on a 60k BTU unit. i am sure there is a reason for that device to cost $400 but if the goal is to lower the AMP surge, you can do that with $10
You mentioned a whole house surge protector video, so I looked for it and realized I’ve watched at least 5 of your videos previously. I am now subscribed, my bad! 😆 My generator is plenty big enough but I don’t care for the flicker on startup so I’ll install this and the whole house surge protector. Thanks for the links also, I’ll grab those Klein crimpers as well.
I put a microair system on my 2ton AC unit so I could run it off of a 12kw duramax generator. We were able to keep the AC on during the last two hurricanes that had us without power for about a week and a half each.
I installed a Flex one month ago and no issues, but there is a Reddit thread regarding the high rate of failures with Flex units that have a Serial # lower than 6200-last 4 digits. I believe the firmware is B36 with a S/N higher than 6200 was upgraded with better quality capacitors. If already installed, it may be difficult to determine what firmware / S # you have without removing it.
@@gagemuellersolarpro - No recall, but if you have a Flex with a serial number below 6200, they will send a replacement. I received mine in mid July and it’s been fine. No faults reported on the app since installation.
Great video. I have installed these in my Class A's AC units and never thought about installing these for in a fixed AC application. Also, there are several Chinese copies of these but I would use caution with those ( I have actually tested out a few CHICOM copies and nothing beats MicroAir's product).
Nice presentation! 👏👏👏 I too am a little concerned about the reliability issues reported on discussion threads on Reddit. It's not a cheap product. But that's OK if it is made to last.
Thank you very much! I am glad you liked it! I personally was not concerned with it and ended up buying this one for a few reasons. I found that many of the reports on reddit and other places were the same people with multiple posts. So I think it is very much the minority having problems as people that dont have issues dont make posts. I have had 2 of their other units in the past, they lasted years, with no issues. I also have talked to the people at Micro Air and their customer service is fantastic. Typically if you e-mail them they get back to you within 30 minutes and they will warranty out the units. Which I saw in most of the posts where the folks said this was the case as well. I have had my Flex installed for 2 months now, no issues. I absolutely will post something if things change as I do not owe Micro Air anything as I bought this myself but I don't foresee that happening due to everything I already said. But anything can happen! Thanks again!
@@HowToHomeDIY I can't tell you how impressed I am that you responded to my comment so thoroughly and so thoughtfully. Please know that such kindness and commitment to your subscribers is not lost on me. BRAVO!!!
That time out feature is added protection after a momentary power system failure or brown out. Also, often a surge is encountered the moment the power starts to fail -- the junk power reflection through the network as a line shorts and then a high line fuse or breaker opens.
Great Info! Your channel has been so helpful. I just started making how-to electrical videos on my channel as well. Haven’t had the time since I started my company 3 years ago. Thanks for the continued inspiration! You’re bringing value to so many!
Great video. Wish I saw this a week ago because I just bought & installed the 'regular' X364 soft starter and would've gone with this Flex version instead since I had to externally mount my box and the Flex is quite a bit smaller. Otherwise, I'm so glad I installed the Micro Air EasyStart unit on my old AC unit as it's made a noticeable difference with the current draw and the start up AND shutdown, as the motor now sounds much healthier than the usual loud clunk noises previously at both startup and shutoff.
Yeah I hear you on the size difference but rest assured you still got a great unit. Same technology. Really glad to hear you got such great results! It really is amazing!
Just installed this in my heat pump went from a 68A LRA to 18.8A LRA now after over 200 starts and it’s so much quieter and will greatly improve the longevity of our unit. Easily worth the sub $400
Bro LRA stands for locked rotor amps if your compressor pulls LRA you have a major mechanical issue with the compressor and if it pulls 18 LRA the mechanical issue has self clearanced I think you mean inrush amps. Compressors do not state RUN load amp because it will vary on compressor load based mostly on OSA temp which will rasie compression ratio as temps increase.
@@angryscottishmechanic848 The current drawn by the motor accelerating from the rest position when rated voltage is applied to the stator is called the locked rotor current. I think you may have misunderstood either the term or what this item does. Instead of a full inrush current of 68A (for example), this will slowly ramp up amps (18.8A) on start up. Thats the whole point of it. Then the RLA will taper way down, once the compressor is running.
@srobeck77 nmmmh, kind of, I've seen a lot of compressors pull lra when the rotor is locked and the inrush current is way higher than lra. Soft starts use a ntc thermistor to create a voltage divider lowering voltage to the windings. Amps are always a product of volts and impedance. Last besides inrush compressor, amp draw normally goes up after running as discharge pressure increases, and suction decreases compression ratio goes up and the hp required to maintain rpm will increase.
Self installed two of the older units on my 4 ton Carrier Heat pump and 3 ton Lennox Heat pump 2 years ago, been working perfectly since then. LRA went from 88 on the Carrier to 17 and from 63 on the Lennox to 12. Have run both units for 3+ day outages two different times on a 8K watt Champion generator with no problems. Purchased directly from Micro Air. Had a question on install of the first unit on the Carrier and a Micro Air tech emailed me the answer within 1/2 hour of asking the question. Don't think there is electric savings, just easier on the equipment and can run on generator power.
Thanks, Adam! I don't know if I'm charged for Inrush/Demand Current or not, but I like what this device can do in extending the life of my new compressor. However, $389.00 is a bit much at the moment, so I'll flag this video and the purchase link so I can get one later from your affiliate link. I already have a Surge Protector installed, so that will just make the 2 - 6 Ton AC Micro Air Flex last longer. I don't think there's a Hard Start installed to have to remove first. I have seen my lights dim at times when the compressor kicks on.
You are very welcome! Sounds good and totally understandable. The surge protector in my opinion is important so you are definitely taking good measures! Appreciate the feedback!
@@najmurrahmaan8011 All models, tools and supplies are in the Description. Click *...more* to see them. The Description is below the Title of every YT video and the Description often has links to things used in the video.
I have a new build home and had constant dimming of lights when the unit turned on. The builder sent out an electrician and I hired one as well to determine the issue, which I was told this is common in Florida. I purchased this unit and my electrician installed it as I was uncomfortable doing it myself. I noticed a difference immediately. The lights stopped dimming for about a year. Now just one set of lights dim seldomly. My neighbor installed one for a different reason, his smaller unit was load whenever it started it. The unit was behind his bedroom. This worked like a charm and lowered the noise level when starting.
@@kevothagod6144 I didn't get for that reason, Strictly to reduce the load on startup. Regarding the electric bill, I wasn't expecting a change as I have solar
My pump would wake me up when it started. The soft start really helped reduce the bang / buzz at startup. While you're in there change out the contactor and capacitor. They are both easy to change and inexpensive.
@@PainShock_99 The cost directly from mfr is $379 not including shipping. What was Amazon charging for the MicroAir Flex, anybody? Amazon is out of stock as of 8-19-2024, maybe because of this great video.
My carrier is so loud on start up. 2 years old. I even bought a thick rubber jacket that fits snuggling over the compressor.Helps a little . My neighbor has a Trane .Amazingly quiet
This looks like it would be great for RV AC's where a lot of people use generators and those generators can get swamped when starting the AC and sometimes trip the breaker.
Guys. If you're not sure which wire is your compressor RUN wire, you should only have 3 wires coming from your compressor that run into where the capacitor is. They should be labeled R S C. R = RUN, S = Start, and C = Common. The START wire runs directly to the capacitor to the HERM terminal. It is usually either blue or purple. The COMMON runs to one side of the contactor, most likely the left side, T1, and should be black. The RUN wire will go to the other side of the contactor, T2, and is usually yellow or red. Just trace the RUN wire from the compressor to the contactor and that is the wire you splice to the BROWN wire. Then put the WHITE wire where the RUN wire was connected to the contactor. Follow the instructions and be safe. God bless.
@bchluvrxyz816 the contactor is upside down in the video. Outside of the markings it really doesn’t matter as far as the contactor goes. The line side will be coming from the home and the load side will be the wires going to the compressor and other areas.
@@bchluvrxyz816 Hi. First off, I am NOT an HVAC technician, so take anything I say with a grain of salt 😁. I'm probably like you, a home owner that wants to learn as much as possible about their HVAC system so we can avoid having to wait for, and pay, someone to fix our stuff. With that, I recently installed one of the MicroAir soft starts on my Carrier 4 ton unit and it's working great. I have OCD, so I've been watching hours of YT videos and looking at online posts regarding proper wiring and caveats to be aware of when attempting to do this sort of thing. Every video or document I've read refers to the L1 and L2 lugs on the contactor as where the main 220 volts come in and the other side of the contactor, where the common and run wire is connected, are referred to as T1 and T2. Now, I also found that not every contactor is labeled this way. Some just have numbers on them. The main thing to be aware of is where your main 220 comes in on the contactor. The common and run wire will be on the other end. Also, the common and run wires may not always be C on the left and R on the right. That's why I made a note to mention in my original comment that you NEED to trace your RUN wire FROM the compressor back to the contactor. Your contactor may be mounted upside down or sideways. A few of the videos that I found educational, other than the OP here, are 'How to WIRE an AC Contactor' by Breeze AC SRQ and other, really old, videos by a man named David Jones. His compressor wiring tutorials are really great. To be honest, I actually reached out to the company that installed my Carrier about 4 years ago about installing the soft start for me and they said that they don't do that due to potential liability issues and that they don't even sell them. So, here we are. 😀 And just like everyone in every video states, PLEASE make sure you test for live wires before doing any of this stuff. You want to save money, not have your family spending it on your FINAL expenses. 😁 Take your time and ask questions. I did and I'm happy that it all worked out. Albeit a year after I bought the dang thing, but I HAD to make sure I did it right the first time. Good luck and God bless. 👊
@@HowToHomeDIY Thank you and Great Videos. Your videos inspired me to tackle installing a soft start to begin with. 😃 I'm planning to do the stand by generator wiring and interlock next. I hope I didn't steal your thunder by my comments or confuse anyone. We all have to try and help each other as much, and safely, as possible, right? Keep the great videos coming and have a blessed day! 👊
@mikesidden oh no problem at all! I actually really appreciate you contributing and sharing your experience with it. I just wanted to reply to the other gentleman to clarify why what was in the video didn’t fully line up with what you said in regard to the T2/L2. You were correct. So just trying to clear any confusion from it. Like you said and I mentioned in the video make sure to follow the instructions from Micro Air. This video is more for supplementation and visualization. Really glad to hear the videos were able to help and you were able to get yours installed and going! Sounds like you’re well on your way to having your whole home setup. Again, thank you very much for contributing to the community. I try to get to as many comments as I can but can’t get to all of them. It is awesome to see folks like yourself helping others in the comments. So thank you again and hope to talk again soon! God bless you too!
I just recently purchased the older model after watching your installation video on it not knowing the newer model was out but cant complain i ordered mine from hutch mountain they already have all the hardware installed on the wires to complete the hookup took about 5mins i can now run my 3 ton heat pump with my 9000 starting watt generator without any strain
Thanks for this video! Update: FYI: Amazon reviews are bashing this unit. Units are expelling fluids and/or bursting internally... Just get an HVAC tech to come and install your soft starter. IMHO, even though I could do this with my experience, it's not worth screwing up your system. Yes, it is expensive but so are the electronics in the compressor if you do something wrong. Plus, that capacitor does store a wallop of a charge... Life is already way to short.
I have already addressed this numerous times. There will always be negative reviews on everything. The earliest models of the flex had a part that went bad for SOME people. Naturally when something goes bad those people are the loudest. It has since been addressed by Micro Air for well over a month and anyone that had a claim was sent a new unit or refund.
You are very welcome. Would be nice if the people that were sharing their experience would share the whole experience which would include the solution and customer service they got. And I’m saying this as someone who has no ties with the company. Just don’t care to see people unnecessarily bash companies without giving the full picture. Appreciate your input Robert.
@@HowToHomeDIY the latest one-star review about the leaking brown liquid was just a month ago, August 2024. I get that there will always be some negative reviews, but when a product has only 43% five-stars and 47% one or two-stars, I gotta take a pass.
I installed this soft start unit on my a/c unit and starting current went from 124 amps to 24 amps and running current went from 18 amps to 10 amps. There will a savings with the 8 amp drop in running current. In my opinion no matter what the final drive system is for your a/c compressor, there will to be inrush current at start. The compressor still needs torque to start from zero rpm.
I recently had my HVAC contractor out to inspect our HVAC system about a year after the install and asked him what he thought about soft starts. He said they make sense for an underpowered generator but that was it. He said he's seen them fail after about 5 years and doesn't think soft starts add to compressor life span. He said the Lennox unit I have, like most other manufacturers, are designed to handle the large starting amps. With that, I decided not to install a soft start.
I am an electrician and he is right but also wrong at the same time. The are designed to handle that inrush current for sure, and designed to handle the strain of startup. Buuuuut, think about a car, it’s designed to accelerate fast if you slam your foot on the gas. But you certainly wouldn’t want to do that at every light right? Doing this would increase the wear and tear on your engine. Same thing happens on your compressor. Sure it’s not going to blow up and it’s designed to handle the stress, but it is still always better to start a motor softly. The oil inside gets to spread quicker before heat builds up, the copper wiring in the motor windings won’t heat up as much which will keep the diametric from drying out over the years. Will it last twice as long? Probably not. There are many other variables, build quality, coolant leaks and line contamination during system repairs, poor maintenance causing the compressor to run longer than necessary. But if you take care of your system and it’s of decent quality you could get 30% longer life
I have a 5 ton model. Not the flex. I've only had mine installed for a about 2 billing cycles. And I've seen a 30.00 per month decrease in my power bill. 100 plus degrees in oklahoma. At first the unit actually was louder on startup. It seems to have become more quite after the first month. I have not used it with my generator yet.
@@condor5635 If you have a demand meter these can make a noticeable difference. They are rare but I see them in rural areas - first saw a demand meter at my grandparents out in the sticks. Wish I would have known about these back then; they could have used one on their well pump - you could see the freaking meter move whenever their well came on!
Shouldn't do anything per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. This law states that aftermarket parts alone cannot void a warranty unless they directly cause a problem. Also, Micro Air offers a warranty with the soft starters on the compressor.
So if you need reference material on wiring ampacities, check out Table 310.16 in the National Electric Code. Make sure you are paying attention to "insulation type" of your cable and the ambient temperature or condition its installed; whether in a wet location or not. You could also get ahold of an "Ugly's book"(field reference hand-sized booklet). They come in very handy. I always install the breaker in its slots before wiring to it, especially with larger wire. There are times when its necessary to wire the breaker first and most likely the case here. The termination ports can face towards the back of the panel more on some types/brands/styles of panels.
It takes a specific amount of power to run an A/C, regardless of any capacitor. What the soft starter can do is lower your demand meter numbers if you have that meter. Most homeowners do not have that nor would want that kind of meter. It can help prolong the life of your compressor. If your lights flicker or dim when the AC starts up, you need to have an Electrician or power company come and investigate your panel and incoming service. You got more than an A/C issue....
Finally, someone who understands that total power = area under the curve, it's the same (minus minute differences for winding loss during surge) whether you apply 100 amps for 100 milliseconds or 10 amps for 1 second. One thing this guy said really bothered me though, remove hard start kit before installing a soft start kit. If a tech installed a hard start kit it's because the compressor is having a hard time getting out of start and into run, so going to soft start may mean it will never start. However, these are usually only applied to older units. Occasionally I need one of those in the morning too 😂.
@@user-jd5sj8jx7r My hard start int he mornings is a large coffee! Wife's hard start is the flavored fancy coffee. Yep. I gradjeated skool! I wonder if you use a stepping system with both hard and soft start caps? Maybe hard on one winding and soft on the other? Or soft for 1/2 sec then hard after that? Dunno. Rusty on my electrical theory. Perhaps a decent inductor added to the system to limit power until saturated? In power supplies, inductors can be used to limit turn on surge (protect equipment). If they limit surge on those in theory they should limit surge on motors. Just tossing out a few ideas.
That sounds like something interesting. At present when I'm at the other end of the house from the AC unit and I'm standing by the power meter when the air conditioning turns on my meter sounds like an arc welder.
That's the big question I called them ask about that they claimed it doesn't because of the Magnuson-moss warranty act which states they can't void your warranty unless what you installed actually caused the problem. The issue I have is how are you going to prove it didn't not going to pay an attorney to sue them. I worry that Microair and AC manufacture just point the finger at one another. If your really concerned there are AC contractors in most states who install these have them install it so they can't say you messed up the install and caused it. Less likely IMO if a HVAC contractor does the work that manufacture can claim it was the fault of a soft-start. If your in a situation where compressor fails under warranty less likely that contractor going to tell the manufacture about the soft start because he installed it.
@@Mike-01234 I would try to find reviews online. If there are bad reviews on the soft starter, you’ll find them. You could contact the AC manufacturer and ask. This reminds me of that 100,000 mile synthetic motor oil called AMSOIL. The first thing the auto mfgr wants to see, when applying for warranty, is your service history (and modifications). If you have no record of timely oil changes, your motor warranty is void. They’re not going to honor magic oil. And if you’ve modified your engine, your warranty is void. I suppose it depends on the problem and the dealer.
Yes it will work, but.... It will make your heat pump less efficient and cost you more in electric bills especially in colder areas. The catch here is defrost mode. Compressor defrost boards typically have a short (30-60 second delay) shutdown before operating the reversing valve to avoid the slamming noise from sudden reversal. Goodman calls it SmartShift and it can be turned off, but so much for the quieter benefit! Now back to the delay issue. The soft start will interpret this as a short cycle and add a three minute wait period before restarting. This is three additional minutes you will be on backup heat, aka emergency or electric heat and not benefitting from the heat pump. Now when the defrost cycle is over, it shuts off to shift back, and again, another three minutes not pumping heat but burning it (electricity). This can affect mild climates too as some systems (older single stage Goodman's and I know many others) defrost in milder weather based strictly on a timer. The defrosts will be short in mild weather but now they are six minutes longer. To make a long reply longer, it can be worse with dual-fuel units. I added the heat pump onto my oil furnace and do not have electric backup heat. This time adds on to the amount of time I blow cold air as the unit defrosts. Yes it is bad as it sounds but I actually am quite used to it and hope to get rid of the oil some year soon. (I tried competitor's soft starter that had a SIX minutes delay EVERY time it started! Luckily it burned out before the warranty expired). This is all just my analysis of the situation and I would welcome discussion on the topic. I have not installed my MicroAir soft starter yet in almost two years. Additional thought: the short cycle delay can be turned off (adjusted?) in the app, but it is not recommended. The short cycle benefit masks that (all) soft starters do not do well if the motor it is applied has a heavy startup load. It needs an equalized system. AC units build up pressure as they run but starting while that pressure is still there is a lot tougher. When off, the pressure equalizes until it is the same on both sides of the compressor. This time can vary based on a few factors but it varies. Think of it as starting your bicycle in a higher gear. Might be fine on flat ground but what about starting going uphill? It works but you're going to need more power. If you want to start any other loads (pumps etc), MicroAir recommends that your electrical engineers consult their electrical engineers.
I installed an earlier model (368) in 2023, and really like the quiet start and no more flicker of indoor lighting. At 02:30, you say decreased startup current will "extend the life of that compressor by quite a bit". Although this makes some sense intuitively to me (less bearing /winding stress, etc), nowhere have I seen this benefit measured or quantified. At the time that I purchased, I couldn't find real data from Micro-air or anywhere else to back up this claim, have you??
so i actually studied this and actually designed my own soft starter myself from a microcontroller, TRIACs, and start capacitor, and other associated electronics, essentially what it does is temporarily put a start capacitor in parallel with the run capacitor while ramping up the voltage on the run winding using a TRIAC, once the voltage shoots up across the start winding it means the motor has started spinning and you can remove the start capacitor and run full voltage across the run winding, my own project reduced the starting amps on a window unit like 60%+
You may have a good understanding of electrical circuitry, but your grasp of basic english sentence structure was at a Kindergarten level at best. (A dead giveaway is using the word "and" 5 times in the same paragraph).
Good call out. Of course Reddit is a mixed bag of valid discussions and haters, so read with caution. In this case I believe most of the folks in that subreddit truly wanted these to work and are disappointed in the quality of the units themselves and the support they are getting from MicroAir. Thank you. That’s a hard pass for me.
If you call them they will give you a discount code I accidently ordered the smaller model I have a 4 ton unit they go by BTU I made the mistake of thinking 10k BTU was 1 ton actually 12k BTU is 1 ton. When I called to ask about swapping it they were really nice and gave me a discount code and said go ahead and order new one and ship this one back we will refund. Sure enough they refunded next day after they got it back. Nice to have that kind of support where can call Americans answer the phone. That costs more IMO it's worth it getting good support talk to someone I can understand.
As usual your videos are very educational and informative I have a better understanding of this item that yes I’m buying and now with your help I can install myself kudos to you I’m subscribing for more knowledge thanks
This is something I've been meaning to learn more about for years, amazing video and thank you. Would this work with a Tosot 240 volt split AC unit inverter heat pump? Sorry if the question's been asked before. I looked through a lot of questions and didn't see a clear answer. I am now subscribed and look forward to looking at more of your videos. Thank you!
Great explanation of installation, I have a 3 1/2-ton unit and back up Generac, looking to install one of those units to help when generator is running with AC being used.
Okay, probably a stupid question here: Why don't they have these built into the A/C units from the factory? I mean, it makes everything better than it is, right?
My AC compressor is right outside my bedroom window (well, close enough). This would probably help me sleep better as I wake up whenever my compressor jolts on.
It’s clear this is doing something different than the standard capacitor; why doesn’t that capacitor reduce inrush? I thought that was the whole point (I guess I thought wrong!). I see a bunch of smaller caps inside that box, what do they do that the big one doesn’t? *First time viewer. The algorithm feed this to me. Cool product, great installation video.
Installed Easy Start on our camper AC so we can boondock and run AC with Honda 2200 watt generator. Works great! Considering this one for our home also... wondering if it will let my 3000 watt generator run the AC.... ?
Important Note! I know I will get questions and comments about this so I wanted to pass this along. From what I have observed and experienced myself, the soft starters will go in and out of stock during hurricane season as they are in very high demand. I also have links to the older models listed in the description as they work similarly to the Flex. The biggest differences are the previous models are bigger and need specific sizing. So check back regularly. I am curious though, what are your thoughts on these and do you personally have any experience with them?
Shame that most of you are too incompetent to understand when we are telling you why you need to put additional Parts onto an air conditioner
@@jimreeds9731-not exactly sure who this is directed to? Are you an AC guy that does this sort of work and you are saying your customers are incompetent when you are telling them they need this? Is that your beef?
I do mobile power (AC units on trucks/campers/ect). These are great for those applications. Keeps the AC alive longer.
@@jimreeds9731 Jim?
I have had one on my 6ton AC unit, and love it, plus easy to understand and install. Thanks for the review and update. My in-rush dropped from something like 105LRA to 49A! No issues.
Installed the day before Hurricane Milton. Lost power and was able to run the entire house with AC on my 6500 watt generator. Best $300 I’ve spent this year 😂
How’s it holding up so far? In Fla here, learning what I can to prep for next season
@@whitestang65 I am interested as well on dependability
Installed the Flex two weeks ago. Self installed super easy thanks to all those that shared their install. I have a Goodman 3 ton unit and went from 77 amps to 17.8 amps
There’s no way your air conditioner was pulling 77 A. That would mean you have a 80 amp breaker on a 3 ton system
@@Hurpdurpdipidydooinrush current is too quick to trip a breaker, go outside to your outdoor unit, look at the data plate, look for LRA, that is the inrush current max rating, some units go over 100.
@@Hurpdurpdipidydoobreakers only trip when they are being over pulled for a length of time.
@@Hurpdurpdipidydoo
Meters don’t lie. I think 🤔
Anyway, you don’t need an 80 amp breaker as the momentary high amp draw is so short that it will not trip the breaker, but it will trip a generator. I’m not an electrician so any out there please chime in so we can all be enlightened.
The problem is that a lot of people don’t really pay attention to the videos…or just answer comments without viewing them…the inrush on this video was 121a, since “meters don’t lie” I’d say that was a lot higher than yours.
As an electrical engineering tech with over 40 years experience, this is the best instructional video I’ve ever seen. Well done sir, and I’m buying one of these amazing units and installing on my heat pump immediately. Too bad you’re not getting any financial benefit, but it’s good of you to pass on the information.
These will shorten compressor life. He misquoted on the hard start. A hard start kit is a starting capacitor used in conjunction with potential relay which supplies inrush voltage and reduces amperage. PTCR devices haven’t been used since 80s.(28 yrs experience as a HVACR/Mechanical Contractor)
@@AnotherRandomComment I’ve had one of these on my 15 year old compressor for 5 years. How does a gradual ramp up of amperage reduce compressor life?
Installed mine last spring. Easier, quieter start ups even on portable generator and reduced run load amps by 4A from 22 to 18. Love it.
Thank you for the continued concise and helpful content.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you are finding so much value in the content. Thanks a ton for the feedback and Super Thanks Jack! I really do appreciate it!
I installed the prior model on my home AC even though I don't have a generator. It's awesome. The lights no longer dim on AC startup, I'm no longer woken up by the clank of the compressor starting at night, and it has overcurrent shutdown protection that saved me a very expensive compressor replacement when my capacitor gave out.
If lights dim on startup, you might want to investigate the real reason instead of treating the symptoms.
Usually insufficient incoming capacity, too small wire to the unit, bad connections, etc.
@@crazysquirrel9425 one leg of the crimp at the weatherhead was failing, even after it was fixed this continued. It AC has 8 gauge all good connections straight back to the breaker box. The box is 150 amps, and it does this with only the AC and a few lighting loads.
It's a 28 year old AC and I don't have a high enough resolution amp meter since your average one can't read correct LRA but I expect it is much higher compared to newer compressors.
@@colinnwn Voltage drop from pole to house?
Weak connections at the pole?
Aluminum wiring from pole to house?
Wrong gauge wiring from substation to pole?
Too many people (houses) on the supply line?
With a 150 amp box, you should have any blinking.
Maybe the neutral is one issue?
Or maybe you just have a bad compressor?
Takes a long time to figure out the issue(s) sometimes.
@@crazysquirrel9425 voltage sag on one leg on the house side caused by bad splice at the weatherhead. But dimming (not flickering) had been happening since we moved in 7 years prior, and continued 4 years after that fix until I installed the soft starter. No neutral issues. I do have aluminum service drop. Lineman from my TDSP came out and identified that issue. If he didn't investigate your other possibilities not much I can do about it.
I wouldn't be surprised if it's a 'tired' compressor. But it has run for many years that way and I'll run it till it has a functional problem. A soft starter was a more economical fix than a new $15k system until then.
@@colinnwn All moving parts wear even with lubricant. For an old system, it is quite possible that the compressor oil thickened with wear particles.
Think along the lines of dirty oil in a car motor.
An AC tech should be able to do an oil test, even recover, filter, and replace the refrigerant and oil plus add in a new line filter.
Again, think changing your motor oil and filter here.
Newer lubricants are better than the old ones too.
Doesn't hurt to give a company a call and ask a few questions.
If they tell you that it doesn't do that then call another company.
If necessary call an HVAC school.
Soft start is just a band aid of sorts.
No different than using thinner oil so your car stars easier.
But that is a tradeoff...
One of the biggest problems with new A/C's is the very LOW quality they make the parts now. Especially the coils.
Hard to clean the outside parts of the coils and the inside parts clog easily due to a sorta spongy metal they have in the coils.
Not all use that but many do.
And the metal is THIN. Made to leak just after the warranty is up. Or about every 5-10 years.
You could just have the compressor changed out thus giving new life to your system.
A good tech can do it in about 1/2 day or so.
Having them flush your lines can remove contaminants too.
Hint: the longer and deeper the vacuum on a system, the longer the system can last.
Some techs cheat on this part to keep prices low.
Vacuum needs to be less than 500 microns for 1 hour and only change to the vacuum is 1psig. 200 would be great!
Moves more than 1psig or above 500 microns for 1 hour, more vacuum is needed or you have a leak somewhere.
If they go deeper than 200 then it vaporizes the oil in the compressor.
this is the kind of technology that should be standard in these systems! thanks for the video, very informative.
I'm really surprised it's not. Is this device just for old systems, or do they still sell AC like this in the USA? In New Zealand and Australia, they are all inverter models and have been for a very long time (15-20 years?) - the compressor varies it's speed. Once the room achieves the set temperature it does not necessarily switch the compressor off, it keeps it running at a slower speed to maintain that temperature. That also means they always soft start.
@@craig00000 Inverter compressors are basically unheard of here, as are heat pumps. Usually only the higher end units have it, or smaller mini splits.
It takes regulation but seeing how GOP freaks out about their gas ovens then you’ll never see it pass.
This comes from the RV industry and they are only know just starting to build this in some models of RV AC units.
@@ColHunterGathersperhaps they should leave the gas ovens alone and focus on increased energy production and efficiency. This would drive costs down for just about everything.
I think you did a great job on this one. Very informative. You took a beating in some of the comments, but I think that's just due to people's lack of understanding, skepticism, and the cost of the unit.
Fantastic video. Forget the installation instructions that come with a Micro-Air Easy Start. This video makes it so much easier to understand. Took 15 minutes to hook up and that included drilling a hole to run the cable through.
I started using Micro Air Soft starts years ago on our camper's AC. We lived in South Louisiana and when we travel, I can place a 2300 watt generator in the bed of the truck and power one of the AC's, run the camper's residential refrigerator, and battery charger. When we stop for a break, the inside of the camper is comfortable enough for a nap, have a meal, or just relax, no matter where we are. Before the soft start, the generator's breaker would kick out every time the compressor would come on. After seeing how well that worked on the camper, I installed a Micro Air soft start on the condenser on the house. I have a 5500 Watt generator that I had been running for the house. Before the soft start I couldn't run the central AC on the 5500 W generator. Sometimes the AC would start, sometimes it wouldn't, but it was cringing listening to the strain on the condenser and the generator. I kept 3 window units on hand and would place them in the windows ahead of a hurricane. I could run those on the 5500 W generator without issue, but that was a pain in the ... I thought about the soft start on the camper and figured that that should take care of the house AC. I purchased the appropriate Micro Air Soft Start and installed it. Don't let the pre-read of the instructions scare you. When you sit in front of the AC and the Micro-Air and take one step at a time, it's easy. I ended up going through about 8 or 9 hurricanes after the micro air install, running on generator from a few hours to several weeks, all running on that 5500 W generator running our whole house. The Micro Air Soft Start was worth every single penny spent!!!! We have since moved to Central Florida and one of my first tasks was to install the soft starts on both condensers (new house is twice the size and 2 stories). I had inherited a 12,000 W generator when my father passed. That will run just about anything, but uses twice the fuel (I installed a tri-fuel kit where I can run gasoline, propane, or natural gas). I have set up the new house to be able to use either generator. With the soft starts in place, I can run one central AC unit on the 5500W generator. I can get both AC's to start and run for about a minute or so, then the breaker trips on the 5500 W generator. Has nothing to do with the starting, but with the running amperage. What it does prove is how valuable the soft starts are, that I can get both AC's started and running. I took meter readings and all that good stuff, but I purposely didn't include them in this comment. For most people, real applications make the most sense. Bottom line, if you plan on using a generator to run your house in the event of a power outage, and would like would like to run your central AC, include a soft start as part of that plan or current setup. You won't be disappointed. BTW, I have installed several on friend's RVs and houses. I haven't heard of one failure, or even one negative comment.
How do you connect your 5500 w generator to the breaker box?
@@Wes_Sherman
Look up an interlock device for your service panel.
Adding a “input breaker” and box , 30-50amp
@@Wes_Sherman I have a 50 amp plug/ box, with the proper plug leaving female plug on the cord). The box is wired with 6 gauge wire (for the 50 amp possible feed) to the top slot in the breaker panel with a disconnect/ Interlock that only allows the breaker to be placed into the on position when the main breaker is in the off position. I put a 50 amp female plug on the end of my 30 amp cord for the 5500 watt gen. This setup allows me to use either my 5500 W or my 12.5 kW generator by having 2 different cords.
Been running one for four years making it possible to start my 4 ton A/C with our Duromax 12Kw generator. It works exactly as advertised. The A/C guy who installed it said he had never installed one but was amazed at the inrush current reduction. His exact words were this thing will greatly extend the life of your compressor.
This model hasn’t been out that long. The Flex is tried to have many issues.
Thank you, just installed the Flex soft start on my 4 ton system. Inrush amps before install was 119 ampsand after the soft start install went down to 34 amps. Running whole house on a costco A-iPower GXS7100iRD 7100W Dual Fuel Inverter Generator. Running at about 4.4 kw with ac runing i do hear the generator bog down for less than a second when compressor kicks on but then runs well below its max running watts of 5,700 watts on fossil fuel. Followed the wiring exactly as described and worked like a charm.
Appreciate ya, this video not only introduced me to the fact these exist but also made install a breeze.
Thanks!
You are very welcome! Really glad you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback and the Super Thanks!
As a homeowner for over 12 years and having the ASY-368-X48-BLUE unit for about 3 years; it has saved me on at least 2 HVAC truck roll calls. The going rate in my area for a bad run capacitor is about $125 part included.
Speaking from experience of the situation of a bad run capacitor, when the compressor goes into thermal overload; the housing of the compressor will hot enough to fry an egg on it. The conundrum is how long has this been going on before you discovered it. The EasyStart unit has the brains learn what is normal and what's not then does its thing quietly in the background.
For those who are on the fence about purchasing one, it's not an inexpensive device. If you have plans to run your A/C on solar backup battery or generator during a grid outage, definitely save up for it. I've kept myself cool during an 8+ hour outage when it was 92°F feels like 116 outside is priceless.
PSA: when the inevitable time comes to replacing a bad run capacitor, I highly recommend to initiate the relearn process after the new capacitor is installed. It'll work fine if you don't do it, but it doesn't hurt to have the soft start optimize itself with the new capacitor. Another benefit is that when your old unit needs to be replace, it can be transferred to the new unit and relearned.
Run capacitors run $10 to $20. I keep a spare on hand at all times. If you can install a soft start, you can replace a cap.
Capacitor is 20$ and a 5 minute TH-cam video, suuuuper easy. No need to ever call a A/C company to do it if u don’t want to
Capacitor replacement in Houston, TX is typically $250 or more. I do my own and help friends with theirs for a much more reasonable cost.
Just replaced the capacitor and the contactor on mine. 12 bucks for the capacitor and 24 bucks for the contactor.
I’ve had one for 5 years now, it’s been great. So glad I installed it! We had several power outages and my 6k generator was able to start the AC every time. Also, I am hopeful it will extend the life of my 10 year old AC unit. Other than a blown capacitor (indicated by overcurrent fault code on the soft start LEDs) I have had 0 issues.
Can you please tell me if this will help reduce the actual monthly electricity bill?
I have the old model and it reduced me from 127LRA to 24 amps. Very impressive.
Works great under generator power.
I was never able to get the Bluetooth app working, but Micro-air saw my comment on one of their videos and contacted me right away and got me set up on the app. Amazing company and WONDERFUL easy start.
I don't think you can change your LRA. Is it possible you meant RLA?
@ericallen7200 i ended going through support about Bluetooth, and turns out it's only used for support purposes, and requires a special app and code.
@@jamesbsa6450 Actually, the app is great and allows me access to reset and to see all the trouble codes (there were none)
Amongst other things.
The app will only work while the unit is running.
@@HectorFabela-k6u isnt that the whoooole point of installing a soft start kit, to reduce the LRA? (That was a rhetorical question, btw). RLA isnt affected by a "soft start kit", the name sorta gives it away.
Ordered a Flex this morning to be installed in the spring. Increasing longevity on the AC, and making it easier on my inverter gen to start it is a no-brainer. Being older, everything I do these days is geared to make everything last longer, cost less, and be more reliable. Failure generally occurs at the worst time, right? More points of failure will be reduced.
Thanks for this.
installed the older version of this 6 months ago, what a difference! no blinking of lights and now I have zero issues running the whole house off my generator.
A couple of notes on the Soft Start and inrush current. A multimeter averages the inrush over a 100 mSec sample time typically. If the inrush takes longer than that it will give a good reading. If less then it will read low. Since inrush normally will be between 100 and 150 mSec this is not normally a problem. But if you have a hard start, it will reduce the time to around 50 mSec, so the reading on the meter can be nearly half of the actual. This has confused many people who think that a hard start also decreases the inrush current, when in reality it increases it but decreases the time.
Some contactors have spade lug quick connects instead of screw terminals. For those you do not have to cut any wires at all, but simply install the mating lugs on the soft start wires to properly connect.
Mounting of the soft start can be simplified by screwing Rubber Coated Neodymium Magnets for feet on the unit and hanging it anywhere on the steel housing you want.
Thanks! I had been wondering why my hard-start showed less inrush amps then the soft-start, but the soft-start was the only device allowing startup on generator!
@Sam-ys4pc it is 60hz and a clamp meter can read the soft start. Ignore this guy. He doesn’t understand how this works and has told some pretty wild stories in another thread. He has no experience with it but somehow is an expert. 😂. Only thing he got right is you won’t be able to read a hard start in rush reading as it is too fast and the meter can’t capture it. Can easily verify this with a simple search. It’s not because it isn’t 60 hz either because it is. 🤪
100% I got to use with new a/c with generator.
Old ac ran no problem but new had issues.
New a/c I could hear and see when the compressor kicked on.
With the micro air it is quiet, and I no longer hear the startup of the unit or see it.
I.e no power surge.
I do believe it is much easier on my compressor.
I'd suggest folks consider using a Wago 221-612 on the white/brown wires like the Hutch Mountain kit. Why? You're leaving the original connection in place and splice in. There have been a wave of melting capacitors on the last batch of the Micro-Air B34 units. With the Wago it's easy to remove without having to re-terminate the two wires.
The last batch does not have an issue with the caps. It was the very first ones that had issues and were fixed quite a while ago.
How do you identify that you bought the earlier or the latest one (before I install) ?
@@p.b.7861 it’s not clear where the cut off is but look at the sticker inside the top of the clear housing with the barcode, not box or outer sticker those can differ. It has a barcode. It should read 398-X2S. Below B37. For what it’s worth my 398-X1S B36 just failed and I thought I was in the clear.
Put one of these in three years ago. Still going strong and ran A/C through two hurricanes and several power outages. Fiber optic internet stayed in service too. Crazy. Portable generator and soft starter combo installed DIY for under 1600.00. I've been through power loss in many hurricanes for two weeks to a month. It's miserable. Never again!
Great video. I'm glad this works for you guys. Just one thing, as a licensed electrician, I need to stress to you to use the connector manufactured for the application. Do not use a sealtite (either metal or plastic) connector or a rubber bushing for the micro-air cord. Use the proper size cord grip connector.
Also, nice work using the Klein ratcheting terminal crimper.
On my old single stage unit I had installed a "hard start" device so it didn't slam all the power at once on start up as this does bad things to the unit over time. Well my old unit finally expired after 13 years. I now had a Daikin Fit inverter system installed and .... with the inverter system the power starts very low and ramps up after the unit starts. The unit is super quiet and you have to be standing next to it to even tell if it's on. Happy happy with the Daikin Fit !!
I installed one last year - not so much for use with a generator but because the unit outside is a little bit more quiet since my outdoor unit is right outside my living room wall. Well worth it!
They also offer an install kit that provides the liquid tight fitting and other miscellaneous bits like the spade connectors that makes the install trivial. It's like $10 and also well worth it.
@@Sam-ys4pc Why would it void the warranty? If anything a soft start will dramatically lengthen the service life of the compressor.
@@Sam-ys4pc I didn't get it to run on a generator. I got it (as I stated originally) to quite the compressor down - which it did just enough to make it barely noticeable in my living room.
All you are revealing with your underpowered generator comment is your utter ignorance of basic electricity and how motors work 🙄
@DocNo27 he’s commenting all over this video. The more he talks the more he exposes how little he knows about it. Glad to hear it was able to quiet your unit down!
@@HowToHomeDIY he's the kind of person who probably thinks "Warranty void if sticker removed" mean something too 🤣
@DocNo27 😂 I think you’re exactly right.
I bought one going on 2 years ago for my 5-ton unit here in Arizona. It sees a lot of run time and is controlled by 2 thermostats....that means it could shut off after satisfying one zone and then start back up within seconds later for the other zone. The compressor is made for that, no stalling. I wasn't sure of the original starting amps before I installed it, by now after looking at the APP, I see14,000+ starts and I think it's going to make the compressor live a lot longer. The "Last Start Peak" amps was 34A. I'd say that's pretty respectable. FYI, the APP is only visible via Bluetooth when the unit is running.
curious if or how it affected your electric bill during the summer...I don't pay demand charges, but imagine this would save a few bucks
Installed the original on my 25 year old 10 seer ruud a couple years ago and it has been working flawlessly. In fact it has even safely cut power to my unit a few times when real faults occurred that might otherwise be dangerous like when the compressor wires rusted off the posts and started shorting. That might have easily saved me an entire system replacement plus it actually told me exactly what was wrong so I could fix it myself through their diagnostic app. I just wish their app could connect with the unit even when there is no call for air and ideally have it connect via WiFi and integrate into smart homes via matter. Haven't noticed any drop in energy bills but it is quieter. Hoping to get another 25 years out of it.
I stopped reading your comment when you claimed the compressor wires rusted.
Next time you make up a story that you want people to believe, try not to break laws of science, ok?
@@billymacktexasdetective5827 good for you
I have 4 Ton unit and working great on portable generator during recent Texas storms! Game changer, and the new Flex unit just came out after mine but nice to see improvements too! ❤🎉
Ive heard that if i have a 50 amp generator but my ac is a 60 (which mine is) it will not work. Will these make it work due to the soft start being added, by chance do you know?
@@johnny.9879- you need to restate your question. I don’t understand what you’re saying and I am very familiar with this topic. Can you clarify?
I have a 24KW get set that just could not get a 5 ton A/C unit running with the other 4 smaller units I have. I added the EasyStart to the 5 ton two years ago and with frequent power outages it has done its job perfectly. Excellent product and they have great support. Like he says make sure you get the right one for your unit.
Oh my gosh, one of the first guys on TH-cam to actually get it right. Inrush is what you measure, not Max amps. Good job.
I will be getting one of these. Will be nice to be able to run AC from a generator. Great video too. Easy to follow.
This is fantastic. Thanks. My lights dim for some 6 to 10 seconds - I need that thing. But just know I'll blow my shorts off with that capacitor.
Installed mine July 13th the moment I learned of this new model. So glad I waited for this smaller unit I would never have been able to install the larger model inside my unit. Has been working fine since I installed it. Noticeable difference in noise of the unit starting up.
Awesome video. My unit came today, followed your instructions and took about an hour, mounting and all. We have a heat pump so it should benefit us all year round.
I have the older model and it still works great with bluetooth. I covered it up so it's not in direct sunlight. No need to upgrade to the new one, it's just smaller. Still hard to start/run a 5 ton with a generator. 2 PowerWall 3's to be installed very soon.
I just did mine yesterday its very nice mine was 110,to 35 amps on rush 13 running amps love it 4 wire easy install
My 3 ton unit went from 88.3 inrush pre-install to 19.5 inrush post install with the Flex. And the Bluetooth reporting app works beautifully.
I’ve seen these on RVs in the past. Never knew they had them for home systems. Thanks!
These work, installed mine a few days ago on a 14yr old 5 ton Carrier. LRA was 117a, then after install 23.7a. A huge improvement. Haven't tried a generator yet.
Lra means lock rotor amp… it’s listed on the side of the door. All these comments have no idea what they’re talking about.
thanks for sharing. this is a $400 device. I installed 2 timer relays on my HAVC system ($5). When the thermostat starts the inside blower fan, the first timer wait 10 sec and then start the compressor fan, then the second timer it setup at 20 second which waits another 10 seconds after the compressor fan to start the compressor. total AMP to kick it all is 20AMP on a 60k BTU unit. i am sure there is a reason for that device to cost $400 but if the goal is to lower the AMP surge, you can do that with $10
You mentioned a whole house surge protector video, so I looked for it and realized I’ve watched at least 5 of your videos previously. I am now subscribed, my bad! 😆 My generator is plenty big enough but I don’t care for the flicker on startup so I’ll install this and the whole house surge protector. Thanks for the links also, I’ll grab those Klein crimpers as well.
I put a microair system on my 2ton AC unit so I could run it off of a 12kw duramax generator. We were able to keep the AC on during the last two hurricanes that had us without power for about a week and a half each.
What microair did you use, i have a 2 ton unit i wanna use one on
I installed a Flex one month ago and no issues, but there is a Reddit thread regarding the high rate of failures with Flex units that have a Serial # lower than 6200-last 4 digits. I believe the firmware is B36 with a S/N higher than 6200 was upgraded with better quality capacitors. If already installed, it may be difficult to determine what firmware / S # you have without removing it.
Do you know if they have recalled or have bypassed these serial numbers already?
@@gagemuellersolarpro - No recall, but if you have a Flex with a serial number below 6200, they will send a replacement. I received mine in mid July and it’s been fine. No faults reported on the app since installation.
Great video. I have installed these in my Class A's AC units and never thought about installing these for in a fixed AC application. Also, there are several Chinese copies of these but I would use caution with those ( I have actually tested out a few CHICOM copies and nothing beats MicroAir's product).
Nice presentation! 👏👏👏 I too am a little concerned about the reliability issues reported on discussion threads on Reddit. It's not a cheap product. But that's OK if it is made to last.
Thank you very much! I am glad you liked it! I personally was not concerned with it and ended up buying this one for a few reasons. I found that many of the reports on reddit and other places were the same people with multiple posts. So I think it is very much the minority having problems as people that dont have issues dont make posts. I have had 2 of their other units in the past, they lasted years, with no issues. I also have talked to the people at Micro Air and their customer service is fantastic. Typically if you e-mail them they get back to you within 30 minutes and they will warranty out the units. Which I saw in most of the posts where the folks said this was the case as well. I have had my Flex installed for 2 months now, no issues. I absolutely will post something if things change as I do not owe Micro Air anything as I bought this myself but I don't foresee that happening due to everything I already said. But anything can happen! Thanks again!
@@HowToHomeDIY I can't tell you how impressed I am that you responded to my comment so thoroughly and so thoughtfully. Please know that such kindness and commitment to your subscribers is not lost on me. BRAVO!!!
That time out feature is added protection after a momentary power system failure or brown out. Also, often a surge is encountered the moment the power starts to fail -- the junk power reflection through the network as a line shorts and then a high line fuse or breaker opens.
Great Info! Your channel has been so helpful. I just started making how-to electrical videos on my channel as well. Haven’t had the time since I started my company 3 years ago. Thanks for the continued inspiration! You’re bringing value to so many!
Great video. Wish I saw this a week ago because I just bought & installed the 'regular' X364 soft starter and would've gone with this Flex version instead since I had to externally mount my box and the Flex is quite a bit smaller. Otherwise, I'm so glad I installed the Micro Air EasyStart unit on my old AC unit as it's made a noticeable difference with the current draw and the start up AND shutdown, as the motor now sounds much healthier than the usual loud clunk noises previously at both startup and shutoff.
Yeah I hear you on the size difference but rest assured you still got a great unit. Same technology. Really glad to hear you got such great results! It really is amazing!
Just installed this in my heat pump went from a 68A LRA to 18.8A LRA now after over 200 starts and it’s so much quieter and will greatly improve the longevity of our unit. Easily worth the sub $400
Bro LRA stands for locked rotor amps if your compressor pulls LRA you have a major mechanical issue with the compressor and if it pulls 18 LRA the mechanical issue has self clearanced I think you mean inrush amps. Compressors do not state RUN load amp because it will vary on compressor load based mostly on OSA temp which will rasie compression ratio as temps increase.
@@angryscottishmechanic848 The current drawn by the motor accelerating from the rest position when rated voltage is applied to the stator is called the locked rotor current. I think you may have misunderstood either the term or what this item does. Instead of a full inrush current of 68A (for example), this will slowly ramp up amps (18.8A) on start up. Thats the whole point of it. Then the RLA will taper way down, once the compressor is running.
@srobeck77 nmmmh, kind of, I've seen a lot of compressors pull lra when the rotor is locked and the inrush current is way higher than lra. Soft starts use a ntc thermistor to create a voltage divider lowering voltage to the windings. Amps are always a product of volts and impedance. Last besides inrush compressor, amp draw normally goes up after running as discharge pressure increases, and suction decreases compression ratio goes up and the hp required to maintain rpm will increase.
@@angryscottishmechanic848 you lost me on the irrelevancy of RLA for this "soft start kit". This is only regarding LRA at startup.
Self installed two of the older units on my 4 ton Carrier Heat pump and 3 ton Lennox Heat pump 2 years ago, been working perfectly since then. LRA went from 88 on the Carrier to 17 and from 63 on the Lennox to 12. Have run both units for 3+ day outages two different times on a 8K watt Champion generator with no problems. Purchased directly from Micro Air. Had a question on install of the first unit on the Carrier and a Micro Air tech emailed me the answer within 1/2 hour of asking the question. Don't think there is electric savings, just easier on the equipment and can run on generator power.
Thanks, Adam! I don't know if I'm charged for Inrush/Demand Current or not, but I like what this device can do in extending the life of my new compressor. However, $389.00 is a bit much at the moment, so I'll flag this video and the purchase link so I can get one later from your affiliate link. I already have a Surge Protector installed, so that will just make the 2 - 6 Ton AC Micro Air Flex last longer. I don't think there's a Hard Start installed to have to remove first. I have seen my lights dim at times when the compressor kicks on.
You are very welcome! Sounds good and totally understandable. The surge protector in my opinion is important so you are definitely taking good measures! Appreciate the feedback!
Multimeter model no. Please
@@najmurrahmaan8011 All models, tools and supplies are in the Description. Click *...more* to see them. The Description is below the Title of every YT video and the Description often has links to things used in the video.
I have a new build home and had constant dimming of lights when the unit turned on. The builder sent out an electrician and I hired one as well to determine the issue, which I was told this is common in Florida. I purchased this unit and my electrician installed it as I was uncomfortable doing it myself. I noticed a difference immediately. The lights stopped dimming for about a year. Now just one set of lights dim seldomly.
My neighbor installed one for a different reason, his smaller unit was load whenever it started it. The unit was behind his bedroom. This worked like a charm and lowered the noise level when starting.
Did you notice a lower electricity bill?
@@kevothagod6144 I didn't get for that reason, Strictly to reduce the load on startup. Regarding the electric bill, I wasn't expecting a change as I have solar
My pump would wake me up when it started. The soft start really helped reduce the bang / buzz at startup. While you're in there change out the contactor and capacitor. They are both easy to change and inexpensive.
I wouldnt change it out to a cheapo contactor. For a little more money, they make alot better ones. You get what you pay for.
Out of stock I’ll keep checking back Thumbs up 👍
I bought mine directly from the manufacturer website. Took about a week and a half to arrive.
@@PainShock_99 The cost directly from mfr is $379 not including shipping. What was Amazon charging for the MicroAir Flex, anybody? Amazon is out of stock as of 8-19-2024, maybe because of this great video.
Hey Clarence, they are taking orders for them again as of right now if you wanted to look at them still.
My carrier is so loud on start up. 2 years old. I even bought a thick rubber jacket that fits snuggling over the compressor.Helps a little . My neighbor has a Trane .Amazingly quiet
You insulated your compressor?
Wow, good luck with that...
That's wild. I just got mine today lol small world. 💪💯🙏
That is awesome! Let me know what you think. I have loved mine for years.
This looks like it would be great for RV AC's where a lot of people use generators and those generators can get swamped when starting the AC and sometimes trip the breaker.
They do make specific ones for RVs. It is kind of where it got started.
Guys. If you're not sure which wire is your compressor RUN wire, you should only have 3 wires coming from your compressor that run into where the capacitor is. They should be labeled R S C. R = RUN, S = Start, and C = Common. The START wire runs directly to the capacitor to the HERM terminal. It is usually either blue or purple. The COMMON runs to one side of the contactor, most likely the left side, T1, and should be black. The RUN wire will go to the other side of the contactor, T2, and is usually yellow or red. Just trace the RUN wire from the compressor to the contactor and that is the wire you splice to the BROWN wire. Then put the WHITE wire where the RUN wire was connected to the contactor. Follow the instructions and be safe. God bless.
You state that the RUN wire goes to terminal T2, but in the video he connects the RUN wire to L2. Please elaborate.
@bchluvrxyz816 the contactor is upside down in the video. Outside of the markings it really doesn’t matter as far as the contactor goes. The line side will be coming from the home and the load side will be the wires going to the compressor and other areas.
@@bchluvrxyz816 Hi. First off, I am NOT an HVAC technician, so take anything I say with a grain of salt 😁. I'm probably like you, a home owner that wants to learn as much as possible about their HVAC system so we can avoid having to wait for, and pay, someone to fix our stuff. With that, I recently installed one of the MicroAir soft starts on my Carrier 4 ton unit and it's working great. I have OCD, so I've been watching hours of YT videos and looking at online posts regarding proper wiring and caveats to be aware of when attempting to do this sort of thing. Every video or document I've read refers to the L1 and L2 lugs on the contactor as where the main 220 volts come in and the other side of the contactor, where the common and run wire is connected, are referred to as T1 and T2.
Now, I also found that not every contactor is labeled this way. Some just have numbers on them. The main thing to be aware of is where your main 220 comes in on the contactor. The common and run wire will be on the other end. Also, the common and run wires may not always be C on the left and R on the right. That's why I made a note to mention in my original comment that you NEED to trace your RUN wire FROM the compressor back to the contactor. Your contactor may be mounted upside down or sideways.
A few of the videos that I found educational, other than the OP here, are 'How to WIRE an AC Contactor' by Breeze AC SRQ and other, really old, videos by a man named David Jones. His compressor wiring tutorials are really great.
To be honest, I actually reached out to the company that installed my Carrier about 4 years ago about installing the soft start for me and they said that they don't do that due to potential liability issues and that they don't even sell them. So, here we are. 😀
And just like everyone in every video states, PLEASE make sure you test for live wires before doing any of this stuff. You want to save money, not have your family spending it on your FINAL expenses. 😁 Take your time and ask questions. I did and I'm happy that it all worked out. Albeit a year after I bought the dang thing, but I HAD to make sure I did it right the first time. Good luck and God bless. 👊
@@HowToHomeDIY Thank you and Great Videos. Your videos inspired me to tackle installing a soft start to begin with. 😃 I'm planning to do the stand by generator wiring and interlock next. I hope I didn't steal your thunder by my comments or confuse anyone. We all have to try and help each other as much, and safely, as possible, right? Keep the great videos coming and have a blessed day! 👊
@mikesidden oh no problem at all! I actually really appreciate you contributing and sharing your experience with it. I just wanted to reply to the other gentleman to clarify why what was in the video didn’t fully line up with what you said in regard to the T2/L2. You were correct. So just trying to clear any confusion from it. Like you said and I mentioned in the video make sure to follow the instructions from Micro Air. This video is more for supplementation and visualization. Really glad to hear the videos were able to help and you were able to get yours installed and going! Sounds like you’re well on your way to having your whole home setup. Again, thank you very much for contributing to the community. I try to get to as many comments as I can but can’t get to all of them. It is awesome to see folks like yourself helping others in the comments. So thank you again and hope to talk again soon! God bless you too!
I just recently purchased the older model after watching your installation video on it not knowing the newer model was out but cant complain i ordered mine from hutch mountain they already have all the hardware installed on the wires to complete the hookup took about 5mins i can now run my 3 ton heat pump with my 9000 starting watt generator without any strain
Thanks for this video!
Update: FYI: Amazon reviews are bashing this unit. Units are expelling fluids and/or bursting internally...
Just get an HVAC tech to come and install your soft starter. IMHO, even though I could do this with my experience, it's not worth screwing up your system. Yes, it is expensive but so are the electronics in the compressor if you do something wrong. Plus, that capacitor does store a wallop of a charge... Life is already way to short.
I have already addressed this numerous times. There will always be negative reviews on everything. The earliest models of the flex had a part that went bad for SOME people. Naturally when something goes bad those people are the loudest. It has since been addressed by Micro Air for well over a month and anyone that had a claim was sent a new unit or refund.
Excellent! Thanks for following up and pointing that out. I did not know that.
You are very welcome. Would be nice if the people that were sharing their experience would share the whole experience which would include the solution and customer service they got. And I’m saying this as someone who has no ties with the company. Just don’t care to see people unnecessarily bash companies without giving the full picture. Appreciate your input Robert.
I agree 100%! If your going to paint a picture then finish it properly!
@@HowToHomeDIY the latest one-star review about the leaking brown liquid was just a month ago, August 2024. I get that there will always be some negative reviews, but when a product has only 43% five-stars and 47% one or two-stars, I gotta take a pass.
I installed this soft start unit on my a/c unit and starting current went from 124 amps to 24 amps and running current went from 18 amps to 10 amps. There will a savings with the 8 amp drop in running current. In my opinion no matter what the final drive system is for your a/c compressor, there will to be inrush current at start. The compressor still needs torque to start from zero rpm.
The Micro Air EazyStart is a very good product.
I recently had my HVAC contractor out to inspect our HVAC system about a year after the install and asked him what he thought about soft starts. He said they make sense for an underpowered generator but that was it. He said he's seen them fail after about 5 years and doesn't think soft starts add to compressor life span. He said the Lennox unit I have, like most other manufacturers, are designed to handle the large starting amps. With that, I decided not to install a soft start.
I am an electrician and he is right but also wrong at the same time. The are designed to handle that inrush current for sure, and designed to handle the strain of startup. Buuuuut, think about a car, it’s designed to accelerate fast if you slam your foot on the gas. But you certainly wouldn’t want to do that at every light right? Doing this would increase the wear and tear on your engine. Same thing happens on your compressor. Sure it’s not going to blow up and it’s designed to handle the stress, but it is still always better to start a motor softly. The oil inside gets to spread quicker before heat builds up, the copper wiring in the motor windings won’t heat up as much which will keep the diametric from drying out over the years.
Will it last twice as long? Probably not. There are many other variables, build quality, coolant leaks and line contamination during system repairs, poor maintenance causing the compressor to run longer than necessary. But if you take care of your system and it’s of decent quality you could get 30% longer life
So you disregarded the professional HVAC contractor and installed anyway? 🤔
@@siriusscepter Please learn to read.
I have a 5 ton model. Not the flex. I've only had mine installed for a about 2 billing cycles. And I've seen a 30.00 per month decrease in my power bill. 100 plus degrees in oklahoma.
At first the unit actually was louder on startup. It seems to have become more quite after the first month. I have not used it with my generator yet.
How does your company charge them? Unless there is an amperage charge like he said the running amps is the same.
@@condor5635 Many utilities have demand charges.
@@condor5635 If you have a demand meter these can make a noticeable difference. They are rare but I see them in rural areas - first saw a demand meter at my grandparents out in the sticks. Wish I would have known about these back then; they could have used one on their well pump - you could see the freaking meter move whenever their well came on!
very nice explaning video thanks
What will adding one of these devices do to the warranty of the unit? My Trane XL15 heat pump is just over 1 year old.
Shouldn't do anything per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. This law states that aftermarket parts alone cannot void a warranty unless they directly cause a problem. Also, Micro Air offers a warranty with the soft starters on the compressor.
GREAT question
If its a brand new heat pump, its probably an inverted compressor, so this wouldnt be benefical.
So if you need reference material on wiring ampacities, check out Table 310.16 in the National Electric Code. Make sure you are paying attention to "insulation type" of your cable and the ambient temperature or condition its installed; whether in a wet location or not. You could also get ahold of an "Ugly's book"(field reference hand-sized booklet). They come in very handy.
I always install the breaker in its slots before wiring to it, especially with larger wire. There are times when its necessary to wire the breaker first and most likely the case here. The termination ports can face towards the back of the panel more on some types/brands/styles of panels.
It takes a specific amount of power to run an A/C, regardless of any capacitor.
What the soft starter can do is lower your demand meter numbers if you have that meter. Most homeowners do not have that nor would want that kind of meter.
It can help prolong the life of your compressor.
If your lights flicker or dim when the AC starts up, you need to have an Electrician or power company come and investigate your panel and incoming service.
You got more than an A/C issue....
Finally, someone who understands that total power = area under the curve, it's the same (minus minute differences for winding loss during surge) whether you apply 100 amps for 100 milliseconds or 10 amps for 1 second. One thing this guy said really bothered me though, remove hard start kit before installing a soft start kit. If a tech installed a hard start kit it's because the compressor is having a hard time getting out of start and into run, so going to soft start may mean it will never start. However, these are usually only applied to older units. Occasionally I need one of those in the morning too 😂.
@@user-jd5sj8jx7r My hard start int he mornings is a large coffee! Wife's hard start is the flavored fancy coffee.
Yep. I gradjeated skool!
I wonder if you use a stepping system with both hard and soft start caps?
Maybe hard on one winding and soft on the other? Or soft for 1/2 sec then hard after that?
Dunno. Rusty on my electrical theory.
Perhaps a decent inductor added to the system to limit power until saturated?
In power supplies, inductors can be used to limit turn on surge (protect equipment).
If they limit surge on those in theory they should limit surge on motors.
Just tossing out a few ideas.
@@user-jd5sj8jx7r PS I used to work in a rewind shop lol
15 years with out this on my unit still. goin strong.
@@droberts9145 Mine is older than that and still works.
That is the good thing about R22 systems.
They can last DECADES.
That sounds like something interesting. At present when I'm at the other end of the house from the AC unit and I'm standing by the power meter when the air conditioning turns on my meter sounds like an arc welder.
Will this affect the AC's warranty? Is this approved by the manufacturers?
That's the big question I called them ask about that they claimed it doesn't because of the Magnuson-moss warranty act which states they can't void your warranty unless what you installed actually caused the problem. The issue I have is how are you going to prove it didn't not going to pay an attorney to sue them. I worry that Microair and AC manufacture just point the finger at one another. If your really concerned there are AC contractors in most states who install these have them install it so they can't say you messed up the install and caused it. Less likely IMO if a HVAC contractor does the work that manufacture can claim it was the fault of a soft-start. If your in a situation where compressor fails under warranty less likely that contractor going to tell the manufacture about the soft start because he installed it.
@@Mike-01234 Remember the days when you didn’t have to worry about warranties? My AC is 34-years old.
@@Mike-01234 I would try to find reviews online. If there are bad reviews on the soft starter, you’ll find them. You could contact the AC manufacturer and ask.
This reminds me of that 100,000 mile synthetic motor oil called AMSOIL.
The first thing the auto mfgr wants to see, when applying for warranty, is your service history (and modifications). If you have no record of timely oil changes, your motor warranty is void. They’re not going to honor magic oil. And if you’ve modified your engine, your warranty is void. I suppose it depends on the problem and the dealer.
Love the video! I'd like just a bit more on how to interpret the installation guide on the unit that helped you understand HOW to connect. Great info!
Is this for heat pumps as well, or just dedicated AC units?
Heat pumps as well. Mine is a heat pump.
Yes it will work, but....
It will make your heat pump less efficient and cost you more in electric bills especially in colder areas. The catch here is defrost mode. Compressor defrost boards typically have a short (30-60 second delay) shutdown before operating the reversing valve to avoid the slamming noise from sudden reversal. Goodman calls it SmartShift and it can be turned off, but so much for the quieter benefit! Now back to the delay issue. The soft start will interpret this as a short cycle and add a three minute wait period before restarting. This is three additional minutes you will be on backup heat, aka emergency or electric heat and not benefitting from the heat pump. Now when the defrost cycle is over, it shuts off to shift back, and again, another three minutes not pumping heat but burning it (electricity). This can affect mild climates too as some systems (older single stage Goodman's and I know many others) defrost in milder weather based strictly on a timer. The defrosts will be short in mild weather but now they are six minutes longer.
To make a long reply longer, it can be worse with dual-fuel units. I added the heat pump onto my oil furnace and do not have electric backup heat. This time adds on to the amount of time I blow cold air as the unit defrosts. Yes it is bad as it sounds but I actually am quite used to it and hope to get rid of the oil some year soon. (I tried competitor's soft starter that had a SIX minutes delay EVERY time it started! Luckily it burned out before the warranty expired).
This is all just my analysis of the situation and I would welcome discussion on the topic. I have not installed my MicroAir soft starter yet in almost two years.
Additional thought: the short cycle delay can be turned off (adjusted?) in the app, but it is not recommended. The short cycle benefit masks that (all) soft starters do not do well if the motor it is applied has a heavy startup load. It needs an equalized system. AC units build up pressure as they run but starting while that pressure is still there is a lot tougher. When off, the pressure equalizes until it is the same on both sides of the compressor. This time can vary based on a few factors but it varies.
Think of it as starting your bicycle in a higher gear. Might be fine on flat ground but what about starting going uphill? It works but you're going to need more power. If you want to start any other loads (pumps etc), MicroAir recommends that your electrical engineers consult their electrical engineers.
@thomaskreimer592 none of what you said has happened in the winter with my heat pump. Comes on just like it should every time.
I installed an earlier model (368) in 2023, and really like the quiet start and no more flicker of indoor lighting.
At 02:30, you say decreased startup current will "extend the life of that compressor by quite a bit". Although this makes some sense intuitively to me (less bearing /winding stress, etc), nowhere have I seen this benefit measured or quantified. At the time that I purchased, I couldn't find real data from Micro-air or anywhere else to back up this claim, have you??
so i actually studied this and actually designed my own soft starter myself from a microcontroller, TRIACs, and start capacitor, and other associated electronics, essentially what it does is temporarily put a start capacitor in parallel with the run capacitor while ramping up the voltage on the run winding using a TRIAC, once the voltage shoots up across the start winding it means the motor has started spinning and you can remove the start capacitor and run full voltage across the run winding, my own project reduced the starting amps on a window unit like 60%+
You may have a good understanding of electrical circuitry, but your grasp of basic english sentence structure was at a Kindergarten level at best. (A dead giveaway is using the word "and" 5 times in the same paragraph).
@@srobeck77 im an engineer, not an english teacher, and im not writing a fucking technical paper in a youtube comment
@@wow1022 It is still good practice to always use proper sentence structure in anything one writes! There is no reason not to.
Just got ours this week. Testing with the before and after on gen power.
Of course Amazon is out of stock and they don't know when they will be back.😢
I bought mine directly from the manufacturer website. Took about a week and a half to arrive.
They are back now! Or at least they are taking orders.
I’ve been looking at the Flex. I’m a little concerned about the longevity reading reviews on the Reddit Generator page.
Good call out. Of course Reddit is a mixed bag of valid discussions and haters, so read with caution.
In this case I believe most of the folks in that subreddit truly wanted these to work and are disappointed in the quality of the units themselves and the support they are getting from MicroAir.
Thank you. That’s a hard pass for me.
Great video, your explanation of this unit is great! Thank you!
Looks like the mfgr price is currently $379 on their website.
Wow. $$$ 🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
If you call them they will give you a discount code I accidently ordered the smaller model I have a 4 ton unit they go by BTU I made the mistake of thinking 10k BTU was 1 ton actually 12k BTU is 1 ton. When I called to ask about swapping it they were really nice and gave me a discount code and said go ahead and order new one and ship this one back we will refund. Sure enough they refunded next day after they got it back. Nice to have that kind of support where can call Americans answer the phone. That costs more IMO it's worth it getting good support talk to someone I can understand.
Hi Mike, how much of a discount did you get off the $379 price?
overpriced
@AbouTto_ how do you figure? It’s technology. I think it’s very much in line with other tech people happily pay for and also has functional value.
Love your channel bud, you get right to the point vs other channels. Good job!
As usual your videos are very educational and informative I have a better understanding of this item that yes I’m buying and now with your help I can install myself kudos to you I’m subscribing for more knowledge thanks
Yes my license covers that work! I will get with you about coming by for estimate!
Huh?
GOttA Get one of Those. Awesome!!! Thanks for the heads up
This is something I've been meaning to learn more about for years, amazing video and thank you. Would this work with a Tosot 240 volt split AC unit inverter heat pump? Sorry if the question's been asked before. I looked through a lot of questions and didn't see a clear answer. I am now subscribed and look forward to looking at more of your videos. Thank you!
Great explanation of installation, I have a 3 1/2-ton unit and back up Generac, looking to install one of those units to help when generator is running with AC being used.
Cable glands are a cheap and specific connector for passing cords through enclosures. They’re all over Amazon, Automation Direct and other sites.
So far, so good!
Awesome video! Will be buying on locally this week.
Interesting. Where are you able to get them locally?
@@HowToHomeDIY
Southland RV
Norcross
GA
30071
1794 Bolton Circle
(504) 529-7869 here in Georgia. They also do solar items.
Great video. I am getting for my RV so I can run my generator and this looks like the next project.
Okay, probably a stupid question here: Why don't they have these built into the A/C units from the factory? I mean, it makes everything better than it is, right?
Excellent tutorial, thanks!
Im about to order mine watched a few videos on it.
My AC compressor is right outside my bedroom window (well, close enough). This would probably help me sleep better as I wake up whenever my compressor jolts on.
It’s clear this is doing something different than the standard capacitor; why doesn’t that capacitor reduce inrush? I thought that was the whole point (I guess I thought wrong!). I see a bunch of smaller caps inside that box, what do they do that the big one doesn’t?
*First time viewer. The algorithm feed this to me. Cool product, great installation video.
great video
Sounds good but I've seen a lot of reviews that complain these units blow capacitors like crazy. Not a chance I'm willing to take.
How do you think theat might effect a manufacturers warranty Trane in particular
Installed Easy Start on our camper AC so we can boondock and run AC with Honda 2200 watt generator. Works great! Considering this one for our home also... wondering if it will let my 3000 watt generator run the AC.... ?
Excellent video. Excellent