I don’t worry much about the watch. Been wearing it nearly 24/7 for 20 years. It’s been through a lot and has taken many beatings. I worry more about scratching the car so I try to be more careful about that.
As the oil drainage slows down, getting a slow flow into the Blackstone bottle is much easier and cleaner. Let the oil drain for an hour and let the loosened filter drain for the same duration. Drain plug has an alignment mark on it and it matches a triangle on the underside of the oil pan.
Really well done video. Thanks for taking the time to put it together! Maybe put the part. numbers and. where you. got them in your. description (because I'm really lazy).
I also do my oil changes on the 991.1 GTS. I like to cover the air intakes with microfiber towels just in case I drop something taking out the oil filter. I wouldn’t want to remove the rear bumper in order to retrieve anything from there. For the oil filter gasket I use Porsche grease instead of oil. I use break cleaner to clean the plastic oil filter housing. Also, I like to pour 1 quart of clean oil after the oil has drained completely to remove any residue. There’s nothing like the feeling of driving the car right after your personally done an oil change. You may want to do a fuel system cleaning before each oil change. I use Chevron or LiquiMoly. That car deserves a digital torque wrench from Snap On 😊.Great Job!
Wow, excellent recommendation. I never thought of a fresh flush with a new qt of oil. Makes sense. And the digital torque wrench comment is pure Porsche guy talk! Love it. jivano, when using the LiquiMoly to flush, can you comment on how you do it? You mix with 1 clean qt of oil? Or do you use the Moly instead of a fresh qt? Or is it something more involved?
I always change my oil before it gets too cold outside. so you oil is fresh when its hardest for your engine to start, and if you store the car for the winter, the internals are not bathing into acidic old oil.
SJ, I completely understand. Having a garage certainly makes doing the work a bit more comfortable but the reality is that if you have the right tools such as a low profile oil drain pan and the proper socket to remove the oil filter, you can do this job on the side of a road. There's really not that much to it. But yes, I'm glad and fortunate to be able to do it in my sweltering hot garage :)
When the CAP of your OIL catch tray disintegrates (made by BLITZ???)...REPLACE it with one from POWERADE....works just fine. DAMHIK. Good comprehensive video.
Excellent video, David. Thank you for sharing it in such great detail. I have a 991.2 C4S and am looking to do my first own oil change soon. I saw the info on the funnel, so you mind sharing what ramps you’re using for the car to prop it up? Also, as I am in South FL, would 5W-40 be more advisable? Thanks!
Vladimir - I purchased the Race Ramps RR-TJ-S Trak-Jax with Stop from Amazon. The choice to use 5W-40 is hotly debated. Being in South FL too, I’ve considered using it as it is generally more applicable in warm climates. Just be sure that whatever oil you use that it is Porsche A40 certifies which can be determined by the label on the jug or on the oil manufacturer website.
Three initial observations. You did a first class video, very well paced and you have more BALLS than I do !!! ( I am a bit premature, as my C2 is just about to dock in Benicia……so I don’t qualify to say sh*t at this point. ) I just cringed as you pried the plugs and fans out, etc. But a job and video well done. Please continue to post ! Maybe I’ll grow some hair when it comes time !?
At 31:17, why not look at your Owner's Manual? For my 2015 991.1 GTS it states "the difference between the minimum and maximum marks on the segment display is approx. 1.8 quarts (1.7 liters)". Your car might be different.
I see Porsche went the way of Audi with the plastic oil pan and drain plug. Sure makes things a lot simpler. and FYI, Mobile is either a town in Alabama or a home in a trailer court. Mobil is the oil.
Great video. You seem very passionate about your Porsche and it’s Maintence. While I did enjoy your video very much , I cringed every time your watch came close to the car 🤭.. Nevertheless, really enjoyed the video 👍👍
Thanks, Henry. Cringe because you’re worried about the car getting scratched or the watch?! I try to be careful about the car but I can assure you that watch has been through quite a lot. I pretty much wear it doing just about anything. It takes a licking and keeps on ticking 😉
@@fickstit2839 As a collector, I couldn't tell if it was a Yacht-Master or a Longines HydryoConquest. But many have comments about not wearing the watch while doing this. I agree with you. I always wear my watch(s). And obviously, you are very careful with it. In fact I will wear my Apple Watch on my right hand and my Pepsi GMT on the left. One for intelligence one for arrogance.😅 Trivia: Who was famous for always wearing two watches at the same time?
Thanks. Just got the car and planning on changing the oil. Confused on that oil drain plug? Is it not like normal Allen bolt on most cars? Doesn’t have to be torqued? Can you post a link to that funnel? Tx.
Great job on your inaugural oil change! I’m specing a Cayman currently and the oil change on a 718 is WAY harder than on your 911. As someone that has changed oil myself since I was 14, I get personal satisfaction from doing it myself. What oil change interval will you be going by from now on? I go by 5,000 miles. The dealership says I am wasting my time and money and insist on every 10,000. They also say it is a waste to change at 1,000 miles on a new Porsche. What say you? Thanks.
Thank you for the comments. I think I’m most comfortable going out to 5000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. In my opinion, 10,000 should be a limit. I know others may disagree and that’s ok.
Thanks, I have this exact same car and it's always interesting to see what other owners are up to. Btw, what do you do about the service interval monitor, how do you reset that?
It seems a slight improvement would be not to remove the left fan ;) Also, you could open the filler cap for better draining, as with every car, but if you have plenty of time, it doesn't really matter. Do you think it would make any difference, seeing how the filter is angled, to first fill up the fresh oil, then dump some oil in/on the filter, or would it substantially drain anyway, until you start the engine? Just to avoid unlubed cranking as much as possible...
Yes, It could be done without moving the fan. Also, I used to soak the filter in fresh motor oil as part of the oil change procedure in a previous vehicle. I don't know if it really matters but seeing as I've never really seen/heard/read anyone doing it on the 991, I figured it was an unnecessary step. Thanks for the comment!!!
Hi there, this is a super helpful video! I have a 991.2 C2 cabrio, so this video is exactly what i'm looking for. Can you advice where you got the funnel? Also, mobile 1 suggested 5W-40 instead of the 0W-40, are there any major differences? Thanks!
Hi, Tony. 0W-40, 5W-40, and 5W50 are all Porsche approved oils per the owners manual. Given the Blackstone Used Oil Analysis report I just got back on that oil, I will likely be switching to 5W-40 or 5W-50 as I'm live in a warm climate. Also, here is a link to the funnel: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R5Q1T6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
first number is important if you live in area with freezing winter, and don't want to increase it. if you live in warm climate as in California, Florida etc. not as important. second number is when the engine is warmed up, so it doesn't matter what the temperature outside is. you don't want to change it to different number. that make the selection pretty simple.
Thank you sir. It's very informative video, learned a lots from your work. Looks simple, and definitely you've saved 500 bucks right there in 1 hr of your time. I will do it by myself and using your video as a guidance. Thank you again !
Yes, Suncoast Porsche. I'll post the summary here but the values reveal some interesting findings including above average levels of boron, calcium, phosphorus, and zinc, as well as lower than expected viscosity which has been widely reported with Mobil1 oils. I will probably be switching to 5W40 and go with something like Motul or Liqui Moly to see if the values start to improve. Here's a summary of the report: "The records you have seem to jive with what we're seeing in the used oil. It looks like the wear-in stuff has mostly washed out (which would've happened in the first and second oil changes), and the wear levels are pretty good for a third oil change taken after ~2,600 miles of use. There could still be a little wear-in stuff here, so maybe metals will look better next time, but at present nothing is out of line enough to think there are any issues. The viscosity tested thin, so maybe the grade wasn't noted correctly, but that's fine. The TBN's good at 7.7. Nice report."
i see you struggled putting the filter cup on , next time don’t insert the paper cartridge in to the housing but the cup itself then screw it on by hand as you did. drain plug is such a bad design by porsche i personally don’t like it. anyway you done a good job.
It is made of hard plastic cuz aluminum or other metal would expand/contract with temp changes right??? But other plugs are metal of course. What would be a better design? I'm curious...
-I would replace this strange oil pan with one made of aluminium. -That the newer modells don't have a dip stick at least in addition to the guessing kind of electronic measurement thing i really dislike. I especially hate the fact that you can't see if there is not enough oil in the engine, before you have started it and warmed it up. Just in case, wouldn't it be better to know that there is too little in it BEFORE? -To pour in the new oil is the rewarding part of the change. I really like it when i do it myself and i really like to see it completely in an oil change video. Some videomakers shorten that part for reasons i don't understand. If it takes too long for the audience then they could easily fast forward themselves. -Congratulations not only for the nice work/video but for the awesome car as well. Beautiful.color. 👍
I share the same thoughts as you. I was baffled when I learned that in 2017, they changed over from the metal oil pan to the plastic. Turns out, the engineers believe these pan to actually be more durable against impact and lighter weight. Still hard to wrap my head around but so it is. Agree with you as well on the dipstick and having to check oil levels through the computer. This is not uncommon in newer cars as well.
I have a 991.2 C2S also. After watching you change the oil & air filter, I think this job is too big & time-consuming for me. Enjoyed watching do the work. How satisfying it must be!!
Everyone's time budget is different. The only reason I do mine is my 13 years old son wants to learn. He sits in it in the garage sometimes. I admit I will go look at it often. The 911 fever gets us all.
I've done 4 oil changes on my 2018 991.2. Twice I've had subsequent slow drips from the drain plug. I'm pretty sure it's because I over tightened the plug and compressed the O ring. I've since found out that there's supposed to be a mark to align the plug with but I don't know what this mark is. Do you know what this mark is and what it aligns with?
I've since learned that there's an arrow in the pan that aligns with the plug slot. My trouble was that I can't see it from my position when I'm under the car without craning my neck up. When the plug is in the correct position, the slot is parallel to the rear axles.
Full synthetic Mobil1. The parts to do the oil change are available through any dealer. I purchased from Suncoast but you can pretty much get them from anywhere. If you have a particular part you're referring to, let me know.
I did notice a few things worth mentioning, most minor but important. First, it's always a good idea to disconnect fans before trying to remove and reconnect after reinstalling. Fans can spontaneously start even with no key in the ignition. For information, you never want to leave your torque wrench set to a torque. It should always be left at zero then set to use and returned to zero when done. If left set for too long(way longer than your video) they can become inaccurate. Last and probably the most important is I never noticed you reattaching the engine cover release cable to the air intake plenum. this can be quite important because if the cable moves around and disconnects from the latch(speaking from experience) it is a nightmare to try and reattach when you can't release the engine cover. Nice video I like when non-experts put videos to show everyone can do these jobs. Also If you overfill the best way to correct it is to remove the oil filter let it drain and remove oil from the canister.
Thank you for the great feedback. Great to know about the fans and agree on the torque wrench. When I said that it was already set, that's because I set it when I took it out for use, then I brought it back down for storage. I'm fairly certain I reattached the cover cable but it doesn't hurt to check so I will do that later today. Thank you so much for this. This really helps!!!
@@fickstit2839 You removed it at 10:05 in your video and I zoomed in and it's not clear if the cable is snapped into the holder. You never mentioned doing it and it d looks like it is just resting near the holder.
@David Ferguson I finally got around to checking and happy to report that I indeed snapped the cable back into place when I originally put everything back together. The nice thing about this whole experience is that going back to check the cable made me realize just how easy everything is to take apart and put back together. The first time is always the hardest.
I'll just copy and paste the full comments from my Blackstone report here: "The records you have seem to jive with what we're seeing in the used oil. It looks like the wear-in stuff has mostly washed out (which would've happened in the first and second oil changes), and the wear levels are pretty good for a third oil change taken after ~2,600 miles of use. There could still be a little wear-in stuff here, so maybe metals will look better next time, but at present nothing is out of line enough to think there are any issues. The viscosity tested thin, so maybe the grade wasn't noted correctly, but that's fine. The TBN's good at 7.7. Nice report."
Wow! Very good catch on your part, Steve. Thank you for that. I immediately went into high gear to investigate this when I saw your comment. I emailed and spoke directly with both Suncoast and Mahle USA technical dept (as well as providing a screenshot) and confirmed that the new filter appears to be a misprint and that no such model number for MAHLE oil filter exists.(the one ending in .666). It is believed to be a misprint on the filter. Also, if you look very carefully again, you'll see that the first 3 digits after OPB on the new one is "115" and not "116" although it's easy to see how that can be confused because they are very similar in appearance. Just look at the upper left corner of the digit and you'll see that it's actually a 5, not a 6. Additionally, Suncoast informed me that these parts come directly from Porsche and not another distributor. Nonetheless, I GREATLY appreciate your eagle eye and it's good to at least have an explanation as to why the new filter appeared to be different.
@@fickstit2839 Thanks for investigating! I plan to use your video along with This RL post rennlist.com/forums/991/989220-991-2-oil-change-procedure-with-photos.html As guides when I do my 991.2 oil change. Both your video & the RL description do not detail replacing the drain plug using the special tool. It looked like you just used your hand with the tool to twist off the drain plug. Is that how you replaced it? Just using your hand with that plastic tool? No torque wrench? How do you know how tight to make the drain plug? Thanks, Steve!
@@iconoclast-wolf - Yeah, There's not much info out there on how tight you should close the cap. To be honest, the idea that it's plastic doesn't sit right with me but I've come to accept it. Best I can say is that a good snug hand tightening will do. You can feel when it reaches a hard stop but there's not a click or anything like that that I recall. I wouldn't use 'gorilla' strength to tighten it.
No, It does not. You’ll need an inexpensive diagnostic tool like an ICarSoft to reset it. I show how to use it in this video which is also on my channel: th-cam.com/video/H0CMDK-LudY/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the video, but you must change the engine oil while it is hot until it comes down completely and the oil cap must be closed and then start the engine
@@fernandorosas7372 - If you indeed broke this do to an impact and have discovered it leaking oil, it most certainly needs to be replaced. I would not drive the car. Have it towed to nearest dealership.
@@fickstit2839 yes it was a direct impact. I can even see some yellow paint in the pan. It is leaking seriously. Car is at home, so im trying to get someone to bring the part and replace it here, or towe it to the dealership
It is a good thing you are changing your own oil. Why? Because if you had it done by a shop, how do you know it has been changed? It is not like you can pull out a dipstick and check what the color of the oil is. I miss a dipstick. Obviously these cars were designed by people who hate getting their hands dirty...in other words, a millennial. I keep my car level hoping to get the oil out of the oil radiator out front.
Pretty sure the main purchasers of these cars are middle aged or older, so gen x and boomers so I think it was done because most aren't fit enough to work on their cars anymore. As a millennial I have a 996 C4S and have done everything from a clutch change to a complete suspension refresh (arms, shocks, springs) on my drive way to which I've yet to find many older folks doing the same, but plenty other guys my age. So I find your generalisation a little disappointing.
@@benterry2681 Sure they may be as you put it "Pretty sure the main purchasers of these cars are middle aged or older, so gen x and boomers" but they were designed by Millennials that love Star Trek high tech of glass panels used for dashes in the 992. You may find my "generalisation a little disappointing" but the fact is I do what you are doing now and well as what I was doing at 17 some 40 years ago. I'm doing much more techncial stuff than that.
@@robertslegers257 Another reason I miss a dipstick, on these new high-tech cars, the display will not even show you the level until the engine and oil are fully warmed up. That is a problem during an oil change and if you lost count or were distracted as to how much oil was filled.
Yeah, I had the same thought at first until I did some reading up on it. These oil pans turn out to be lighter weight than aluminum, offer long term resistance to oils, and absorb impacts better than aluminum. So I guess those engineers at Porsche are no dummies after all :)
Yep, and while you can trust them to do a good job, nobody is going to be more careful than you. The one major advantage of having a dealer or Indy shop do such a simple service is that they also do a multi point inspection while your car is on a lift, so they can potentially spot issues or problems before they are easily evident to the casual home DIYer. So I’ll probably opt to have this done maybe every 2nd or 3rd oil change.
doing your porsche maintenance while wearing your rolex is the way of enjoying life. Good!!!1
I don’t worry much about the watch. Been wearing it nearly 24/7 for 20 years. It’s been through a lot and has taken many beatings. I worry more about scratching the car so I try to be more careful about that.
I never remove my G-Shock watch when I maintenance my Toyota us rich guys just don’t care.
Great video. Do NOT over fill a 911. So don’t be paranoid about getting the last couple of ounces in it.
Thanks for the good explanation. Very helpful. Next time you should remove your watch to avoid scratching your spoiler.
Thanks for putting this video together, i’ll follow your video for my 91.2 c4S. Cheers from France 🇫🇷
Thanks again, I watch before every oil change just for a refresher
Money shot captured perfectly! Great job David!
Thanks, James!!! It was fun making the video.
Love Blackstone, share your report. Great video
Great video. I had no idea what a 911 oil change entailed.
We have the same car and color. You are a good man for taking the time to do this.
Thank you!!!
When oil is drained from warm engine and car is mounted over ramps , the exact amount on 991.2 is 9.2 qtrs
That’s very close to what I experienced as well.
As the oil drainage slows down, getting a slow flow into the Blackstone bottle is much easier and cleaner. Let the oil drain for an hour and let the loosened filter drain for the same duration.
Drain plug has an alignment mark on it and it matches a triangle on the underside of the oil pan.
I'm gong to have to look more closely for that triangle next time I'm down there.
Great instructor!
Glad you think so!
Great Job David
Thanks, Francis!!!
excellent video. I learned a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
Same drain plug as Tiguan! Sweet!
Really well done video. Thanks for taking the time to put it together! Maybe put the part. numbers and. where you. got them in your. description (because I'm really lazy).
I will John. Thanks. Part of my problem is I’m lazy too lol. Appreciate your comment!!!
Thanks. How do you reset the oil timer after you change the oil?
You’re a good man
Thank you! I hope you enjoyed the video.
I also do my oil changes on the 991.1 GTS. I like to cover the air intakes with microfiber towels just in case I drop something taking out the oil filter. I wouldn’t want to remove the rear bumper in order to retrieve anything from there. For the oil filter gasket I use Porsche grease instead of oil. I use break cleaner to clean the plastic oil filter housing. Also, I like to pour 1 quart of clean oil after the oil has drained completely to remove any residue. There’s nothing like the feeling of driving the car right after your personally done an oil change. You may want to do a fuel system cleaning before each oil change. I use Chevron or LiquiMoly. That car deserves a digital torque wrench from Snap On 😊.Great Job!
Wow, excellent recommendation. I never thought of a fresh flush with a new qt of oil. Makes sense. And the digital torque wrench comment is pure Porsche guy talk! Love it. jivano, when using the LiquiMoly to flush, can you comment on how you do it? You mix with 1 clean qt of oil? Or do you use the Moly instead of a fresh qt? Or is it something more involved?
Great DIY video! It is better just to leave the level as is. Bad if you overfill. Oh, it’s Mobil oil not Mobile. Lol.
You Know the man is cool when his beater watch is a Rolex Platinum Yachtmaster 😄
So it is a Rollie YM. I couldn't tell if it was that or the knock-off but well-made Longines HydroConquest.
I always change my oil before it gets too cold outside. so you oil is fresh when its hardest for your engine to start, and if you store the car for the winter, the internals are not bathing into acidic old oil.
.
Good stuff.
3:27 that would be Newton-Meters. Also, Mahle, you pronounce the "e" at the end, just as you pronounce the "e" at the end of Porsche.
Wow! That is super helpful. Thanks!
wish I had my garage back... would love to change my 992 oil on my own and save $500
SJ, I completely understand. Having a garage certainly makes doing the work a bit more comfortable but the reality is that if you have the right tools such as a low profile oil drain pan and the proper socket to remove the oil filter, you can do this job on the side of a road. There's really not that much to it. But yes, I'm glad and fortunate to be able to do it in my sweltering hot garage :)
Keep that watch away from the paint. Buy a fender mat to protect the paint.
Good video.
Thanks for the tip
When the CAP of your OIL catch tray disintegrates (made by BLITZ???)...REPLACE it with one from POWERADE....works just fine.
DAMHIK.
Good comprehensive video.
Haha. Great to know, Romeo!
As a up and coming 'wannabe', I completely enjoyed your hands-on personal mantenience experience as you saved $300.00.
Saving money was just icing on the cake. Getting to know my car better was it was all about.
@@fickstit2839 also, you can't trust the dealerships to use correct oil and genuine filter, either.
Excellent video, David. Thank you for sharing it in such great detail. I have a 991.2 C4S and am looking to do my first own oil change soon. I saw the info on the funnel, so you mind sharing what ramps you’re using for the car to prop it up? Also, as I am in South FL, would 5W-40 be more advisable? Thanks!
Vladimir - I purchased the Race Ramps RR-TJ-S Trak-Jax with Stop from Amazon. The choice to use 5W-40 is hotly debated. Being in South FL too, I’ve considered using it as it is generally more applicable in warm climates. Just be sure that whatever oil you use that it is Porsche A40 certifies which can be determined by the label on the jug or on the oil manufacturer website.
@@fickstit2839 Excellent, thank you so much. I'll keep an eye out for you while zipping around SoFlo!
Three initial observations. You did a first class video, very well paced and you have more BALLS than I do !!! ( I am a bit premature, as my C2 is just about to dock in Benicia……so I don’t qualify to say sh*t at this point. )
I just cringed as you pried the plugs and fans out, etc.
But a job and video well done.
Please continue to post !
Maybe I’ll grow some hair when it comes time !?
At 31:17, why not look at your Owner's Manual? For my 2015 991.1 GTS it states "the difference between the minimum and maximum marks on the segment display is approx. 1.8 quarts (1.7 liters)". Your car might be different.
Excellent video Dave!!! And cool looking funnel - where did you get? Thanks
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R5Q1T6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks!
I see Porsche went the way of Audi with the plastic oil pan and drain plug. Sure makes things a lot simpler. and FYI, Mobile is either a town in Alabama or a home in a trailer court. Mobil is the oil.
Thank you!!! Correction coming!!!
U need to put something on the spoiler to protect it from scratches
Great video. You seem very passionate about your Porsche and it’s Maintence. While I did enjoy your video very much , I cringed every time your watch came close to the car 🤭.. Nevertheless, really enjoyed the video 👍👍
Thanks, Henry. Cringe because you’re worried about the car getting scratched or the watch?! I try to be careful about the car but I can assure you that watch has been through quite a lot. I pretty much wear it doing just about anything. It takes a licking and keeps on ticking 😉
@@fickstit2839 As a collector, I couldn't tell if it was a Yacht-Master or a Longines HydryoConquest. But many have comments about not wearing the watch while doing this. I agree with you. I always wear my watch(s). And obviously, you are very careful with it. In fact I will wear my Apple Watch on my right hand and my Pepsi GMT on the left. One for intelligence one for arrogance.😅 Trivia: Who was famous for always wearing two watches at the same time?
Thanks. Just got the car and planning on changing the oil. Confused on that oil drain plug? Is it not like normal Allen bolt on most cars? Doesn’t have to be torqued? Can you post a link to that funnel? Tx.
Did you reset the car’s maintenance timer computer or do you just ignore the message on the dash? If you reset, which electronic tool did you choose?
Great job on your inaugural oil change! I’m specing a Cayman currently and the oil change on a 718 is WAY harder than on your 911. As someone that has changed oil myself since I was 14, I get personal satisfaction from doing it myself. What oil change interval will you be going by from now on? I go by 5,000 miles. The dealership says I am wasting my time and money and insist on every 10,000. They also say it is a waste to change at 1,000 miles on a new Porsche. What say you? Thanks.
Thank you for the comments. I think I’m most comfortable going out to 5000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. In my opinion, 10,000 should be a limit. I know others may disagree and that’s ok.
3000 for me
Thanks, I have this exact same car and it's always interesting to see what other owners are up to. Btw, what do you do about the service interval monitor, how do you reset that?
Yeah! What he said!
Great video! Can you post a link/source for the screw-on funnel?
Thanks!
Found one: www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/1-2-turn-tab-oil-fill-funnel/029348sch01a/
It seems a slight improvement would be not to remove the left fan ;) Also, you could open the filler cap for better draining, as with every car, but if you have plenty of time, it doesn't really matter. Do you think it would make any difference, seeing how the filter is angled, to first fill up the fresh oil, then dump some oil in/on the filter, or would it substantially drain anyway, until you start the engine? Just to avoid unlubed cranking as much as possible...
Yes, It could be done without moving the fan. Also, I used to soak the filter in fresh motor oil as part of the oil change procedure in a previous vehicle. I don't know if it really matters but seeing as I've never really seen/heard/read anyone doing it on the 991, I figured it was an unnecessary step. Thanks for the comment!!!
@@fickstit2839 Interesting; never heard of the pre-soak but it makes sense.
Hi there, this is a super helpful video! I have a 991.2 C2 cabrio, so this video is exactly what i'm looking for. Can you advice where you got the funnel? Also, mobile 1 suggested 5W-40 instead of the 0W-40, are there any major differences? Thanks!
Hi, Tony. 0W-40, 5W-40, and 5W50 are all Porsche approved oils per the owners manual. Given the Blackstone Used Oil Analysis report I just got back on that oil, I will likely be switching to 5W-40 or 5W-50 as I'm live in a warm climate. Also, here is a link to the funnel: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R5Q1T6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
first number is important if you live in area with freezing winter, and don't want to increase it.
if you live in warm climate as in California, Florida etc. not as important.
second number is when the engine is warmed up, so it doesn't matter what the temperature outside is.
you don't want to change it to different number. that make the selection pretty simple.
Excellent video thanks
Thank you sir. It's very informative video, learned a lots from your work. Looks simple, and definitely you've saved 500 bucks right there in 1 hr of your time. I will do it by myself and using your video as a guidance.
Thank you again !
This is the most rewarding type of comment I can read. Nothing makes me happier.
Any word on the black stone oil report?
And when you say “Suncoast” you mean Suncoast Porsche? Thank you. Great in sites
Yes, Suncoast Porsche. I'll post the summary here but the values reveal some interesting findings including above average levels of boron, calcium, phosphorus, and zinc, as well as lower than expected viscosity which has been widely reported with Mobil1 oils. I will probably be switching to 5W40 and go with something like Motul or Liqui Moly to see if the values start to improve. Here's a summary of the report: "The records you have seem to jive with what we're seeing in the used oil. It looks like the wear-in stuff has mostly washed out (which would've happened in the first and second oil changes), and the wear levels are pretty good for a third oil change taken after ~2,600 miles of use. There could still be a little wear-in stuff here, so maybe metals will look better next time, but at present nothing is out of line enough to
think there are any issues. The viscosity tested thin, so maybe the grade wasn't noted correctly, but that's fine. The TBN's good at 7.7. Nice report."
FYI You have to run/drive for 10 minutes after the oil change before you can get the car to measure the oil level
I was wondering about that. To warm it up right? Then let it settle for a few minutes? Or check right away? Splitting hairs but I'm curious.
i see you struggled putting the filter cup on , next time don’t insert the paper cartridge in to the housing but the cup itself then screw it on by hand as you did. drain plug is such a bad design by porsche i personally don’t like it. anyway you done a good job.
It is made of hard plastic cuz aluminum or other metal would expand/contract with temp changes right??? But other plugs are metal of course. What would be a better design? I'm curious...
-I would replace this strange oil pan with one made of aluminium.
-That the newer modells don't have a dip stick at least in addition to the guessing kind of electronic measurement thing i really dislike. I especially hate the fact that you can't see if there is not enough oil in the engine, before you have started it and warmed it up. Just in case, wouldn't it be better to know that there is too little in it BEFORE?
-To pour in the new oil is the rewarding part of the change. I really like it when i do it myself and i really like to see it completely in an oil change video. Some videomakers shorten that part for reasons i don't understand. If it takes too long for the audience then they could easily fast forward themselves.
-Congratulations not only for the nice work/video but for the awesome car as well. Beautiful.color. 👍
I share the same thoughts as you. I was baffled when I learned that in 2017, they changed over from the metal oil pan to the plastic. Turns out, the engineers believe these pan to actually be more durable against impact and lighter weight. Still hard to wrap my head around but so it is. Agree with you as well on the dipstick and having to check oil levels through the computer. This is not uncommon in newer cars as well.
That part that you remove at 6:50, does anyone know the part number? Mine is missing.
I have a 991.2 C2S also. After watching you change the oil & air filter, I think this job is too big & time-consuming for me. Enjoyed watching do the work. How satisfying it must be!!
Thanks! I enjoy doing this kind of stuff and it is indeed satisfying.
Everyone's time budget is different. The only reason I do mine is my 13 years old son wants to learn. He sits in it in the garage sometimes. I admit I will go look at it often. The 911 fever gets us all.
I've done 4 oil changes on my 2018 991.2. Twice I've had subsequent slow drips from the drain plug. I'm pretty sure it's because I over tightened the plug and compressed the O ring. I've since found out that there's supposed to be a mark to align the plug with but I don't know what this mark is. Do you know what this mark is and what it aligns with?
I'm going to be doing my next oil change soon. I'll see if I can figure it out and let you know.
I've since learned that there's an arrow in the pan that aligns with the plug slot. My trouble was that I can't see it from my position when I'm under the car without craning my neck up. When the plug is in the correct position, the slot is parallel to the rear axles.
You could possibly use your camera to take a pic to check alignment
It would be nice if you could tell me where I can get all the parts and do name of the parts and did you use synthetic oil or just regular oil
Full synthetic Mobil1. The parts to do the oil change are available through any dealer. I purchased from Suncoast but you can pretty much get them from anywhere. If you have a particular part you're referring to, let me know.
why would you send your oil to get tested with such low miles? Everything is going to come back clean and new..seems like wasted $
I did notice a few things worth mentioning, most minor but important. First, it's always a good idea to disconnect fans before trying to remove and reconnect after reinstalling. Fans can spontaneously start even with no key in the ignition. For information, you never want to leave your torque wrench set to a torque. It should always be left at zero then set to use and returned to zero when done. If left set for too long(way longer than your video) they can become inaccurate. Last and probably the most important is I never noticed you reattaching the engine cover release cable to the air intake plenum. this can be quite important because if the cable moves around and disconnects from the latch(speaking from experience) it is a nightmare to try and reattach when you can't release the engine cover. Nice video I like when non-experts put videos to show everyone can do these jobs. Also If you overfill the best way to correct it is to remove the oil filter let it drain and remove oil from the canister.
Thank you for the great feedback. Great to know about the fans and agree on the torque wrench. When I said that it was already set, that's because I set it when I took it out for use, then I brought it back down for storage. I'm fairly certain I reattached the cover cable but it doesn't hurt to check so I will do that later today. Thank you so much for this. This really helps!!!
@@fickstit2839 You removed it at 10:05 in your video and I zoomed in and it's not clear if the cable is snapped into the holder. You never mentioned doing it and it d
looks like it is just resting near the holder.
@David Ferguson I finally got around to checking and happy to report that I indeed snapped the cable back into place when I originally put everything back together. The nice thing about this whole experience is that going back to check the cable made me realize just how easy everything is to take apart and put back together. The first time is always the hardest.
I'm the same way with my car your not the only one with OVER DOING THINGS. 🤣 BUT THERE'S ONE THING ABOUT US...
WE DONT GET OIL LEAKS. 😂
So true!
How did the Blackstone-Labs oil test results pan out?
I'll just copy and paste the full comments from my Blackstone report here: "The records you have seem to jive with what we're seeing in the used oil. It looks like the wear-in stuff has mostly washed out (which would've happened in the first and second oil changes), and the wear levels are pretty good for a third oil change taken after ~2,600 miles of use. There could still be a little wear-in stuff here, so maybe metals will look better next time, but at present nothing is out of line enough to think there are any issues. The viscosity tested thin, so maybe the grade wasn't noted correctly, but that's fine. The TBN's good at 7.7. Nice report."
@@fickstit2839 Perfect.
Use a new oil,plug every time !!!
Liqui Molly 4110
The rear air deflector is to be open for the entire oil change?
Doesn't need to be.
Thanks for the video. It did not look like the old Mahle filter & the new one had the same numbers. Old: OPB 115.466 & New: OPB 116.666.
Wow! Very good catch on your part, Steve. Thank you for that. I immediately went into high gear to investigate this when I saw your comment. I emailed and spoke directly with both Suncoast and Mahle USA technical dept (as well as providing a screenshot) and confirmed that the new filter appears to be a misprint and that no such model number for MAHLE oil filter exists.(the one ending in .666). It is believed to be a misprint on the filter. Also, if you look very carefully again, you'll see that the first 3 digits after OPB on the new one is "115" and not "116" although it's easy to see how that can be confused because they are very similar in appearance. Just look at the upper left corner of the digit and you'll see that it's actually a 5, not a 6. Additionally, Suncoast informed me that these parts come directly from Porsche and not another distributor. Nonetheless, I GREATLY appreciate your eagle eye and it's good to at least have an explanation as to why the new filter appeared to be different.
@@fickstit2839 Thanks for investigating!
I plan to use your video along with
This RL post
rennlist.com/forums/991/989220-991-2-oil-change-procedure-with-photos.html
As guides when I do my 991.2 oil change.
Both your video & the RL description do not detail replacing the drain plug using the special tool. It looked like you just used your hand with the tool to twist off the drain plug. Is that how you replaced it? Just using your hand with that plastic tool? No torque wrench? How do you know how tight to make the drain plug?
Thanks,
Steve!
@@iconoclast-wolf - Yeah, There's not much info out there on how tight you should close the cap. To be honest, the idea that it's plastic doesn't sit right with me but I've come to accept it. Best I can say is that a good snug hand tightening will do. You can feel when it reaches a hard stop but there's not a click or anything like that that I recall. I wouldn't use 'gorilla' strength to tighten it.
@@fickstit2839 Thanks!
Nm (newton meter).
Dude I don’t care about the oil change…. But what kind of watch are you wearing?
It’s a Rolex Yachtmaster.
@@fickstit2839 … In platinum 😋
Does the computer reset itself for the next oil change?
No, It does not. You’ll need an inexpensive diagnostic tool like an ICarSoft to reset it. I show how to use it in this video which is also on my channel: th-cam.com/video/H0CMDK-LudY/w-d-xo.html
@@fickstit2839 thank you I’m gonna attempt an oil change on mine, i have the same car as you same color too! Is yours a 4s?
@@milinichsautodetail3124 - Cool! Mine is a 2S.
Thank you for the video, but you must change the engine oil while it is hot until it comes down completely and the oil cap must be closed and then start the engine
is that hive like panel the crankcase?
That is the oil pan.
@@fickstit2839 ok, is that like the oil storage part? i hit mine yesterday and it is leaking from a corner. I supose it needs to be replaced.
@@fernandorosas7372 - If you indeed broke this do to an impact and have discovered it leaking oil, it most certainly needs to be replaced. I would not drive the car. Have it towed to nearest dealership.
@@fickstit2839 yes it was a direct impact. I can even see some yellow paint in the pan. It is leaking seriously. Car is at home, so im trying to get someone to bring the part and replace it here, or towe it to the dealership
@@fernandorosas7372 good luck and keep us posted!
36mm socket
Euro oil not called for ,,, Mobil 1 esp x3 recommended
Don’t shop by viscosity of sub line of Mobil. 991.2 needs A40 oil. Choose your A40 first then viscosity.
It is a good thing you are changing your own oil. Why? Because if you had it done by a shop, how do you know it has been changed? It is not like you can pull out a dipstick and check what the color of the oil is. I miss a dipstick. Obviously these cars were designed by people who hate getting their hands dirty...in other words, a millennial. I keep my car level hoping to get the oil out of the oil radiator out front.
Pretty sure the main purchasers of these cars are middle aged or older, so gen x and boomers so I think it was done because most aren't fit enough to work on their cars anymore. As a millennial I have a 996 C4S and have done everything from a clutch change to a complete suspension refresh (arms, shocks, springs) on my drive way to which I've yet to find many older folks doing the same, but plenty other guys my age. So I find your generalisation a little disappointing.
@@benterry2681 Sure they may be as you put it "Pretty sure the main purchasers of these cars are middle aged or older, so gen x and boomers" but they were designed by Millennials that love Star Trek high tech of glass panels used for dashes in the 992. You may find my "generalisation a little disappointing" but the fact is I do what you are doing now and well as what I was doing at 17 some 40 years ago. I'm doing much more techncial stuff than that.
When you spend 80,000 dollars for a car is it too much to ask for a dipstick. I just feel better being able to see the condition of my oil.
@@robertslegers257 Another reason I miss a dipstick, on these new high-tech cars, the display will not even show you the level until the engine and oil are fully warmed up. That is a problem during an oil change and if you lost count or were distracted as to how much oil was filled.
Try to change the air filter…
Yeah...removing the taillights & bumper makes my belly turn. But some vids are really good if you want to invest the time.
Plastic oil pan. What next?
Yeah, I had the same thought at first until I did some reading up on it. These oil pans turn out to be lighter weight than aluminum, offer long term resistance to oils, and absorb impacts better than aluminum. So I guess those engineers at Porsche are no dummies after all :)
@@fickstit2839 Exactly. I found the same concept applied to the bottom of one of my motorcycles.
To think, that’s usually $500-$800 at the dealership.
Yep, and while you can trust them to do a good job, nobody is going to be more careful than you. The one major advantage of having a dealer or Indy shop do such a simple service is that they also do a multi point inspection while your car is on a lift, so they can potentially spot issues or problems before they are easily evident to the casual home DIYer. So I’ll probably opt to have this done maybe every 2nd or 3rd oil change.
This is brain damage
Curious. How so??
33 minutes. No thanks