You take pride in your work and your workmanship is impeccable!! I only wish that I lived in Cali, as you would be my choice for the rebuild of my Durango!!
Bryan Your one of the Most Knowledgeable 4.7 Mopar guys Around... honestly didn't know much about these until you walked us through Step by Step I think it's a Stout Little V8 very comparable to a Ford 4.6 Great Job Brian from Edmonton
The 4.7 is undoubtedly a great little engine but there is no comparison to the 4.6 Triton. The 4.7 is a power making monster that will run circles around a 4.6. I've owned two of them in the past and think it's one of the most under appreciated engines.
Just received the impact. Thanks for the pocket screwdriver. Now I have 2 Snap-On tools!! lol Thanks Brother I really appreciate it!! Pretty awesome!! Thanks again
Yea Im not missing all my cash to the tool truck lol. Ill let ya know how I make out on it. The batteries I have are the wrong voltage, but a buddy of mine has some. If I can get it fixed I can go on Amazon and get some knock-offs cheap. I got some for my DeWilt drill and they hold up surprisingly well, $30 for the pair of batteries
Mine has 213 K miles on it and still going, still sounds good. Never been rebuilt or anything. I did a little bit of lifter work on it just to snug things up but that’s it. I’m watching this in preparation for a rebuild because I do think I have lost some power over the years
Enjoy watching you work. Your good. Id use factory gasket. Holes line up better. Ive used Fel-Pro on all my builds. Never an issue. Only bolts I worry about torquing with a torque wrench is the rod and main cap bolts, and cylinder heads. Great job as usual
It's cool to watch other guys and how they do things. Mostly I do things the same way you do. There is a minor thing here or there I may do differently, but nothing worth mentioning, the end result is still the same. Some guys can get stupid crazy over that torque stuff, gotta torque every fastner and you are a horrible mechanic if you dont. These guys obviously dont do it enough in my opionion
it's impossible to torque every fastener for the sake of time or simply space constraints. I only pull the torque wrench out for critical bolts like you mentioned. Judging by the size material and thickness of a bolt in most cases will tell you how much to put on it!
Bryan, BIG question: I have a head full of gunk would you advise disassembling it to clean & then put all the parts back where they came from? I feel you can't get a thorough cleaning otherwise. As stated so many times before, THANK YOU for this awesome video series.
Bryan, have a question like to ask you here since you have experience with rebuilding 4.7 engine...how could I go by replacing my cam shaft on this 05 dodge ram 1500 4.7 v8 4-4 slt truck of mines so that I can get him back on the road soon??
Brian, did you go with MOPAR motor mounts. If not, what brand and where did you get them from? THanks for the great videos. I'm about to finish mine up and drop it in.
Hey Bryan on the 06 5.7 cylinder head bolt specs call for 25ft then 40ft then 90°....on this 4.7 u went 90° twice....so question is do we go 90° twice on the hemi 5.7?? Lil confused
Brian, I noticed some slight pitting on the tip of one cam lob, about a 1/2 inch stretch, when I went to reassemble. Do you think the camshaft should be replaced.
Great detailed videos. One questions are the DNJ head gaskets universal to each head I noticed they don’t differentiate what side up? Working on this right now, if you could me me know that would be great. Thanks
What did that engine come out of? The motor mounts are much different then my Jeep WJ. Head gasket compressed thickness affects the cam timing on this engine, that is why it is important.
Dodge Dakota. Cam timing? You mean valve timing. Head gasket thickness can affect the valve timing on any engine. The head gasket takes up the space in-between the Cylinder block and cylinder head which seals the combustion chamber so making sure you use the correct thickness is highly important, especially on these engines!
@@Bryan916 I mean cam timing. The distance between the cam centerline to the crank centerline will affect chain tension and effective chain length. Too close will retard the cam timing which is of course valve timing as well.
@@charliedee9276 Cam centerline to the crank centerline, this is an OHC Engine not OHV so that's kinda irrelevant. I work on a Ton of these Engines and I don't know of any aftermarket gasket that is so thick or thin that it would affect chain tension. However, speaking from experience I know of after-market gaskets that do not seal well due to their being a little under spec.
@@Bryan916 I work on a lot of these as well. They actually make .020" steel shims to put in between the head and block to add material to make up for a head or block that has been milled too far down. It is completely relevant in an OHC engine. When the cam sprocket centerline and the drive sprocket centerline, in this case the stub shaft, get closer by means of the head or deck being milled the chain itself does not get shorter therefore the cam timing will now be different as the extra chain length allows the timing of the cam in reference to the stub shaft sprocket which is timed to the crank to deviate from factory specification.
@@charliedee9276 Removing to much material from the cylinder head? That Is a totally different topic I said nothing of the sort in this video. What you're talking about everyone knows this and is common knowledge as it pertains to engine repair. Not once did I mention what to do if heads are out of spec! I'm talking about choosing the right head gasket, what are you talking about?
Nice videos I learned a lot however one of my camshafts dowels where the timing chain sprocket attaches is in the 4 o clock position when looking straight at it and Im having a hard time rotating.... It stops turning after about a 1/4 turn and I don't want to force it...ive tried 2 vice grips in different positions and still stops....can I unscrew the bearing caps and lift up the shaft and rotate it a little towards 12 o clock be in better position to accept the sprocket?
Hey brian great video I was just wondering about the lifters should you have installed new ones? also, these overhead motors have had problems with the cam bolts coming loose. Shouldn't they be lock tightened? Thread sealer? thanks
Its not 100% necessary if there's nothing wrong with the current lifters however, It definitely wouldn't hurt to replace the lifter for sure. as far as the cam bearing caps go I've never had one come lose on me but I suppose a little Threadlocker wouldn't hurt as well both are great suggestion!
@@Bryan916 Thank you. my parents 2005 ram 4.7 engine timing jumped so you can kinda figure what happened there. bu got good deal on engine from 2003 4.7 that a tree fell on cab for $250. wanted to see if the swap would be easy.
there are two generations of the 4.7. The second gen appeared around 2006 and the timing components are not interchangeable. There's also a HO version that Jeep was using in the Gran Cherokee. Up to 2005 all 4.7s were the same.
Hey Brian...I got my cylinder heads on my 03 durango 4.7. It's running but sounds like shit.Im pulling a code camshaft sensor A .I noticed that my cam ring isn't the same as the other. Could that be my issue?
hey bryan I need some help with my 99 ram 1500 5.9L. I replaced my harmonic balance cause it was wobbling a bit on the crankshaft. it still makes a strange sound but theirs a lot more power to it now. ca you help with that sound? Sound comes from right behind the harmonic balancer
My torque wrench has ft. lbs. inch lbs. newton meter as well as degree on it. Torque specs go's as follows on the large bolts 1st pass 20ft lbs. 2nd pass 20ft lbs. to verify 3rd pass 90 degrees 4 pass 90 degrees Small bolts between 10 , 20 ft lbs
@@DonaldChadek 90 then another 90 I guess that would be 180 Degrees Yes. But Take it down in increments to avoid wraping or cracking the cylinder head!
Hey brother love the videos. Im doing this rebuild myself but only top end and was wondering if i can get ahold of you if i have any questions.appreciate all the help and content alot
A man like this doesn't have time for peons like us. We must appreciate the time he already devoted towards this 4.7 series. Haven't you noticed throughout the series that there hasn't been (1) single ad within any of the videos!!!( I for one can appreciate it.) Sure, I've seen some replies to some questions. Depends on the day, the time, the question & the mood where he chooses to reply. PROPS to you Bryan. Much appreciated your sharing your expertise!
Thank you, Brian. Information such as this is so valuable; many blessings to you (..and Dez.)
Our pleasure!
These video series have been helpful during my build. Thanks so much for your time and instruction
It is a sure pleasure to watch and enjoy your vidoes. percise and very knowledgeable. You make it a pleasure to watch and listen. Thank you!!
You take pride in your work and your workmanship is impeccable!! I only wish that I lived in Cali, as you would be my choice for the rebuild of my Durango!!
great videos of the 4.7 rebuild, i have been using them for a rebuild on a jeep. thank you keep up the good work!!!!!
Appreciate it Bryan. Thanks for taking the time to share your video.
Bryan Your one of the Most Knowledgeable 4.7 Mopar guys Around... honestly didn't know much about these until you walked us through Step by Step I think it's a Stout Little V8 very comparable to a Ford 4.6 Great Job Brian from Edmonton
The 4.7 is undoubtedly a great little engine but there is no comparison to the 4.6 Triton. The 4.7 is a power making monster that will run circles around a 4.6. I've owned two of them in the past and think it's one of the most under appreciated engines.
Thank you again brother very good job big HELP
Just received the impact. Thanks for the pocket screwdriver. Now I have 2 Snap-On tools!! lol
Thanks Brother I really appreciate it!! Pretty awesome!! Thanks again
Let me know how the impact turned out and if it was repairable or not! Trust me your not missing out on much not having a lot of Snap-on!
Yea Im not missing all my cash to the tool truck lol. Ill let ya know how I make out on it. The batteries I have are the wrong voltage, but a buddy of mine has some. If I can get it fixed I can go on Amazon and get some knock-offs cheap. I got some for my DeWilt drill and they hold up surprisingly well, $30 for the pair of batteries
Great video as always, looks like a good hard day at work, I like how you showed all the Detail in the Job thanks for sharing.
I like the 4.7
It's not a Powerhouse Hemi, but properly maintained it is a V8 that will go 180K miles .
Mine has 213 K miles on it and still going, still sounds good. Never been rebuilt or anything. I did a little bit of lifter work on it just to snug things up but that’s it. I’m watching this in preparation for a rebuild because I do think I have lost some power over the years
Enjoy watching you work. Your good. Id use factory gasket. Holes line up better. Ive used Fel-Pro on all my builds. Never an issue. Only bolts I worry about torquing with a torque wrench is the rod and main cap bolts, and cylinder heads. Great job as usual
TwiZ1975cj5 Thank You Brother, Yeah that's pretty much all I use a torque wrench for also!
It's cool to watch other guys and how they do things. Mostly I do things the same way you do. There is a minor thing here or there I may do differently, but nothing worth mentioning, the end result is still the same. Some guys can get stupid crazy over that torque stuff, gotta torque every fastner and you are a horrible mechanic if you dont. These guys obviously dont do it enough in my opionion
it's impossible to torque every fastener for the sake of time or simply space constraints. I only pull the torque wrench out for critical bolts like you mentioned. Judging by the size material and thickness of a bolt in most cases will tell you how much to put on it!
Like you said, you get the "feel" for it
Absolutely!
Bryan, BIG question: I have a head full of gunk would you advise disassembling it to clean & then put all the parts back where they came from? I feel you can't get a thorough cleaning otherwise. As stated so many times before, THANK YOU for this awesome video series.
Yes, absolutely clean is the name of the game, no such thing as to clean!
Bryan, have a question like to ask you here since you have experience with rebuilding 4.7 engine...how could I go by replacing my cam shaft on this 05 dodge ram 1500 4.7 v8 4-4 slt truck of mines so that I can get him back on the road soon??
Mr Brian Mr Brian Brian Brian Brian Brian Brian my friend❤
Brian, did you go with MOPAR motor mounts. If not, what brand and where did you get them from? THanks for the great videos. I'm about to finish mine up and drop it in.
Hey Bryan on the 06 5.7 cylinder head bolt specs call for 25ft then 40ft then 90°....on this 4.7 u went 90° twice....so question is do we go 90° twice on the hemi 5.7?? Lil confused
I don't have the specs on the 5.7! I don't know.
Brian, I noticed some slight pitting on the tip of one cam lob, about a 1/2 inch stretch, when I went to reassemble. Do you think the camshaft should be replaced.
Great detailed videos. One questions are the DNJ head gaskets universal to each head I noticed they don’t differentiate what side up? Working on this right now, if you could me me know that would be great. Thanks
RaiderXJ You can use any side it's all the same on these gaskets!
Awesome that’s what I thought. Appreciate the quick response.
What did that engine come out of? The motor mounts are much different then my Jeep WJ. Head gasket compressed thickness affects the cam timing on this engine, that is why it is important.
Dodge Dakota. Cam timing? You mean valve timing. Head gasket thickness can affect the valve timing on any engine. The head gasket takes up the space in-between the Cylinder block and cylinder head which seals the combustion chamber so making sure you use the correct thickness is highly important, especially on these engines!
@@Bryan916 I mean cam timing. The distance between the cam centerline to the crank centerline will affect chain tension and effective chain length. Too close will retard the cam timing which is of course valve timing as well.
@@charliedee9276 Cam centerline to the crank centerline, this is an OHC Engine not OHV so that's kinda irrelevant. I work on a Ton of these Engines and I don't know of any aftermarket gasket that is so thick or thin that it would affect chain tension. However, speaking from experience I know of after-market gaskets that do not seal well due to their being a little under spec.
@@Bryan916 I work on a lot of these as well. They actually make .020" steel shims to put in between the head and block to add material to make up for a head or block that has been milled too far down. It is completely relevant in an OHC engine. When the cam sprocket centerline and the drive sprocket centerline, in this case the stub shaft, get closer by means of the head or deck being milled the chain itself does not get shorter therefore the cam timing will now be different as the extra chain length allows the timing of the cam in reference to the stub shaft sprocket which is timed to the crank to deviate from factory specification.
@@charliedee9276 Removing to much material from the cylinder head? That Is a totally different topic I said nothing of the sort in this video. What you're talking about everyone knows this and is common knowledge as it pertains to engine repair. Not once did I mention what to do if heads are out of spec! I'm talking about choosing the right head gasket, what are you talking about?
Nice videos I learned a lot however one of my camshafts dowels where the timing chain sprocket attaches is in the 4 o clock position when looking straight at it and Im having a hard time rotating.... It stops turning after about a 1/4 turn and I don't want to force it...ive tried 2 vice grips in different positions and still stops....can I unscrew the bearing caps and lift up the shaft and rotate it a little towards 12 o clock be in better position to accept the sprocket?
Hey brian great video I was just wondering about the lifters should you have installed new ones? also, these overhead motors have had problems with the cam bolts coming loose. Shouldn't they be lock tightened? Thread sealer? thanks
Its not 100% necessary if there's nothing wrong with the current lifters however, It definitely wouldn't hurt to replace the lifter for sure. as far as the cam bearing caps go I've never had one come lose on me but I suppose a little Threadlocker wouldn't hurt as well both are great suggestion!
What is the difference in the 2003 4.7 and the 2005 4.7 engines.
As far as I know, it's exactly the same!
@@Bryan916 Thank you. my parents 2005 ram 4.7 engine timing jumped so you can kinda figure what happened there. bu got good deal on engine from 2003 4.7 that a tree fell on cab for $250. wanted to see if the swap would be easy.
Everything should be the same, however I would definitely swap over exhaust flywheel and Intake manifold. And of course motor mounts!
there are two generations of the 4.7. The second gen appeared around 2006 and the timing components are not interchangeable. There's also a HO version that Jeep was using in the Gran Cherokee. Up to 2005 all 4.7s were the same.
Hey Bryan, what brand lifters and rocker arms would you recommend installing for the 4.7l?
SEALED POWER HT 2271
I like your tool cart u should do a video on it
th-cam.com/video/ck_vnIWIk_k/w-d-xo.html
Hey Brian...I got my cylinder heads on my 03 durango 4.7. It's running but sounds like shit.Im pulling a code camshaft sensor A .I noticed that my cam ring isn't the same as the other. Could that be my issue?
Yes!
@@Bryan916 You the man...Thank you so much.I appreciate it
hey bryan I need some help with my 99 ram 1500 5.9L. I replaced my harmonic balance cause it was wobbling a bit on the crankshaft. it still makes a strange sound but theirs a lot more power to it now. ca you help with that sound? Sound comes from right behind the harmonic balancer
I'm a little confused on your torque specs.In the book it says to tighten heads 90 degrees and your video you went 90lbs.Can you explain ?
My torque wrench has ft. lbs. inch lbs. newton meter as well as degree on it.
Torque specs go's as follows on the large bolts
1st pass 20ft lbs.
2nd pass 20ft lbs. to verify
3rd pass 90 degrees
4 pass 90 degrees
Small bolts between 10 , 20 ft lbs
Thanks man. I like your work and videos...
@@Bryan916 so that would be 180 total on large bolts
@@DonaldChadek 90 then another 90 I guess that would be 180 Degrees Yes. But Take it down in increments to avoid wraping or cracking the cylinder head!
@@Bryan916hey Bryan in the 2006 5.7 hemi do we have to do 90° plus another 90° in total 180????
Where do you get your spec information?
Chrysler
Hey brother love the videos. Im doing this rebuild myself but only top end and was wondering if i can get ahold of you if i have any questions.appreciate all the help and content alot
A man like this doesn't have time for peons like us. We must appreciate the time he already devoted towards this 4.7 series. Haven't you noticed throughout the series that there hasn't been (1) single ad within any of the videos!!!( I for one can appreciate it.)
Sure, I've seen some replies to some questions. Depends on the day, the time, the question & the mood where he chooses to reply.
PROPS to you Bryan. Much appreciated your sharing your expertise!
Looks good! It's almost as good as if I did it. :D
Descepticon 👍
Sorry had to laugh at you putting your arm around your landlord. I hope you didn’t leave grease on her clothes.