Bryan, My 4.7 finally spit out a valve seat after 225,000 miles. I have my heads currently at the machine shop getting rebuilt and I am getting ready to perform the timing chain swap. I came across your video and it was unbelievable outstanding steps were perfect. Clarity of the video and your knowledge will help me get this job done right. I can't thank you enough !!!!
Thanks dude. I had an engine shop for 8 years. It is nice to see competent mechanics with patience, intelligence and pride in workmanship. I am doing a 2000 GC grand cherokee 4.7. .50mm hypereutectic pistons, enginetech bearings, .25mm crank, new guides and rock auto valves. Ebay chain kit and gasket kit. I am a little concerned about the seats, but we will see. Gonna do a nice little port match and polish. I have watched several viedos on how to do the timing. Your video has my mind where it needs to be. I will be going back through all your videos on this build just as a freshener course.
Dude not only do I like that you work CLEAN, out of ALL the videos Ive seen on 3.7 & 4.0 timing R & R fixes, your are the ONLY one that oils up the chains and rotates the motor...Kodos to you bro...MOPAR FOREVER.
Bryan cant be more thankful for your videos! I finished my 05 4.7 Ram 1500 head gasket job thanks to you. Everything went well so far (300 miles). Bryan I used a different torque method that only required 1-90 degree turn luckily. In the Ram the engine is so far back I kind of consider myself lucky I found it from another computer program source. I don't want to step on any toes but with your permission I would like to share. Also install EGR valve on head before installing, might make things tons easier for the home mechanic. Again..... thanks.
Craig, I was happy to hear my video helped get your 4.7 Back on the Road, and Thank you for putting something in the Tip Jar too! email me your address or PO box so I can show my appreciation by sending a few small things to say thanks! BryansAuto916@gmail.com
Thanks for detailing this process as much as you did. I am now ready to overhaul my 4.7. Already ordered my parts after the machine shop did their work. Again, thank you for this information.
Man. Thank you very much, the way you did it makes alit of sense to me, I have a 4.7 that needs head gasket replaced. And I was so scared to get the time off, and it needs all new timing chains and tensioners
After setting up timing chains I also installed the oil filter and break in oil . Used a non impact drill and spun the engine to pre prime the oil. Than installed rocker arms. Checked for compression and buttoned up the engine. This pretty much guarantees Zero issues upon start up.
Thank you Brian for all your helpful and interesting videos. I'm just putting new timing chains in my 2004 Dakota. When i put the camshaft chains on, the two black links are not exactly center in the slot windows. I really can move the one tooth back or forth. they end up either on one end of the slot or the other. What do you recommend? thank you
Bryan, you're my online mentor bro. I'm rebuilding a 4.7 at home and your videos have been priceless. One question: Where do you get the print outs that you show on your clipboard? I have a Haynes manual and Google but I get more REAL info from your vids. Thanks and continued success.
Just remember…… TDC is TDC is TDC on the 4.7. It is critical to make sure your crank and cams are set up correctly. Once the crank turns one revolution the dark timing links will never be in the correct place to check them again. I also lock the cam chains around the idler pulley with rubber bands so they can not slip out of place as they are set over the cam gears. Once they are on the cams your good just remove the rubber bands.
An old Chebby 350 in a 1970's pick up truck, Id consider that "not too bad" lol Where there is actual room to work, heck, crawl up in there and take a nap on the inner fender if ya like lol I was charging the AC on a 07 Mercury Montego yesterday and kept burning myself tryin to get the charge hose unhooked. Just no room unless your hands are the size of a 3 year old lol
One more question for you Bryan. Did you get your bolts for timing cover and Timing kit from Mopar Dealer or did you save your old ones? I've came to notice that you can't find anything for sale unless directly from Mopar. PS. the individual that was rebuilding my durango went AWOL
Great videos Bryan my 4.7 in my 2006 dodge Ram 1500 turned out pretty good.. I set timing as per video and book .. but on scan tool indicated crank and cam out of timing.. I had no.1 piston up and marks all aligned.. don’t know what I did wrong.. help plz
If you purchased a new timing kit some kits come with a new cam trigger wheel. If that's the case remove it and put your original trigger wheel on or buy a O. E Mopar part. Aftermarket cam Trigger wheels are know to cause this problem. If That does not apply in your case then your timing is more then likely a tooth off!
Take a look back at the exhaust manifold gaskets. They have two slots in the bottom corner holes. It should allow starting those two corner bolts, then sliding the gasket in place. Perhaps easier. Speaking of easy, you make this process look that way. Nice program.
Bryan, Doesn't your top timing chain adjuster have a metal plate behind it? Mine had one when I removed that top adjuster. Is it something that needs to be there?
I have a 07’ 4.7 aspen. Cold start 67 psi oil pressure. After drive it few miles it warms up drops to 20’s and then like 0-8psi at idle so I shut it off. I hooked up an aftermarket gauge to find this out by the way. My question is I guess think oil pump and timing set might fix it, or do I need look more into main bearings? Thank you.
Sounds more like excessive bearing clearance. A weak or defective oil pump would have low to no oil pressure pretty consistently, a cold start wouldn't make much of a difference if the oil pump is weak or defective.
Awesome video. I am doing this for the first time because I bought it from an auction and it need many of things so i decided to the head gaskets, timing etc..I am putting the timing together in the frame, chain colors in the sprocket and at driver and passenger sprockets, I did not release the tensioners just in case I need to remove everything again and it made it easier to remove, is that wrong or not first, second once your rotate the engine twice or a forth time should the colors on the sprockets line up again with their respective ingrained whole or is that only for when you initially apply the chains and sprockets!
@@Bryan916 hey thanks man, yeh through watching your video it was after the fact then i noticed how yours didnt line up either.. I am watching your video as i put mine back together, thanks for the slow explanations!
Hey so i did the compression check like you did but i am not getting the same hiss sound, maybe i am missing it, but i feel like i have done things all good..oh well i am going to just press on like mine sounded like yours and hope for the best because i dont know what else could be!? Does it matter where you have the ratchet when you crank? I noticed you coming up with it, mine is in the frame so not such an easy angle! Sorry man to annoy but your skill is a blessing!
Another great video! When is the best time to install your rockers? I have my timing components out, I was do my valve seats and an HO cam install, Should I install the rockers before setting the timing? Or set up my timing then install the rockers? Which is safest? Wouldnt I risk bending valves either way? Thanks!
Hey man i have a question. i have a dodge ram 1500 3.7l. Is the timing the same as a 4.7. And if so I have rotate it twice but dont line back up. Would you have an idea why it doesnt?
You do great expiation of what your doing id trust your work although im in New York State. I’ll have to do a rebuild on mine it’s nfg. Have HO cam set, HO intake, might even get the HO heads, HO pistons and connecting rods, bearings from a donor junk yard and build mine with all the HO parts into my jeep grand cherokee 4.7 with broken timing chain
Do you do remote work?? I’m in EDH and Need to have heads and timing set/cover installed on my 05 RAM 1500 4.7. One of the lash adjusters on the passenger side came loose after the rocker arm popped off and shot through my valve cover.. I have the engine taken apart with the heads, timing cover and intake removed.. not real comfortable with the different torque values and tightening patterns.. Thank you - great video BTW..
I’m confused I have a 3.7 and have done everything exactly like this and while your turning it over if you look at the cam chain one side of the chain gets loose just like in this video when you see the tensioner squeeze in but on mine one side of the chain gets loose I can wiggle it with my fingers is this normal or no
Lol "you wouldn't believe..." I work at O'Reilly's...oh yes I would believe XD The 4.7l isnt a bad motor, but the maintenance has a few extras to do on it and no one wants to do it (or knows to do it) and the lifters go out and screw everything up... Every 100,000 miles whether it needs it or not...lifters lifters lifters...if it starts knocking...park it and do the lifters...thats the big fail point...thats why I'm here...I got a dakota for $300...thing is rust free...Leather...fully loaded...undercoated, bedlinered...everything you can do to protect it was done....engine was clean as a whistle...but take that valve cover off and Bam...my gain though HAHAHA
Perfect guide video 👍🏿😊😊 What brand do you youse on the timing kit? Becurse it looks like a cheeper one? and I woundering how good this kit is if so. I need to replace my timing kit on my Dodge ram 1500 4.7L 2007 but I don't realy Know what to by becurse I need it to be cheep and I live in: Sweden and here is no after market Kit's to this car :( I have found I couple on eBay but I don't know if this will work a couple of years or will brake immediately ? Pls help me out.
Do you have any idea what would cause repeated failure of a hydraulic chain tensioner in the 4.7? Iv'e had the whole timing kit replaced 3 times already in past 3 years. Oil pump was replaced too. Great video BTW.
Hey I’ve done all the steps in this video when I rotated the engine the two rotations my colored marks were a tooth back. Try two more rotations went back two teeth. Did I possibly miss a step
Of course, the color links did not line back up after a few rotations, it would take more than a few rotations to get the color links back in that exact spot. The color links are there to set the valve timing only. After a few turns, you now need to refer to the timing marks. I suppose you could keep rotating the engine till eventually reaching that sequence again but it's not necessary!
Brian, can you confirm that it's 250 in lbs for both bolts on the fixed guides, or is it 150 for the bolt that goes into the head. Also, for the other guides that only have one bolt, i believe that is 150 in lbs. After tightening to 150, i noticed that guide can slide back and forth along the bolt. I beleive they call it an Arm Pin bolt. Is it suppose to do that? I didn't notice it when I pulled it apart.
Hey Bryan. I like your videos. You are very methodical and take the time to explain why things have to be done a certain way. What is your impression of the Chrysler 3.7? Common issues? Repeat work?
Not much Different from the 4.7 both engines will produce a fair amount of power! They are great engines till you overheat it or reach high mileage than they pretty much self-destruct. Also, they can be really expensive to fix!
Kevin Lawrence I feel the same way. I keep waiting to catch him making a mistake so I can dog him lol. Been waiting for a while now. Bryan916 is good people too...hard to find these days
Just say someone were to torque the bolt for the tensioner on the head that you said not to an it were to slightly crack? Would you have to replace the whole head or can it just be left alone if it wasnt cracked completely
A slight crack will turn into a full-blown crack or split due to engine heating and cooling cycles. If it were me I would take the head to a machinist and have them fix the crack. But I would not run it with the crack!!!
Brian, when you’ve completed a double head, timing chain & oil pan replacement do you need to prime the engine with oil by turning the starter with the engine fuse removed or will the engine self prime on a dry start?? Also what do you recommend for a break in period after a job like this?? Tim -El Dorado Hills CA
Yes I would definitely disable the engine to prevent it from starting Then keep cranking the engine till you begin to build oil pressure. How I break my engines in is I drive a hundred miles then change the oil and filter. Then I drive about 300 miles and change the oil and filter again. The first hundred miles I keep it below 70 miles an hour and no hard accelerations.
I do use torque wrenches! I've done this Repair so many times on the 4.7 I can do it with my eyes closed also I know how tight to take from past experience!
Hey Bryan need some advice Installing a time system on a 3.7 all marks match up , but when I turn the crank 4/5 times marks are off . Any ideas? Thanks
mike johnson wow then I should be good since the sprockets are all Lining up with the two cams at 12 , Idler sprocket at 12 and crankshaft sprocket at the 6 . For some reason I thought the chain marks need to line back up.
Hey Bryan Was wondering if you might be able to shed some light on something I’m questioning. I’ve done a full full engine overhaul bored over .20 due to some slight scoring on cylinder walls that wouldn’t come out with just an hone. Had crank grinded to .10 machine work done by reputable machine shop engine block bare crank and head were completely handled by them. Parts and install done by me: Following everything to spec and am having an issue, I can turn crank by hand at a a good steady pace with no issues but if I turn it real slowly I’ll feel a resistance at a certain point after a a few ratchets , just finished timing install to the tee. Hoping I’m just being paranoid and hitting compression strokes. Highly doubt I’m hitting a valve. It’s on a 4.7 HO motor on 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee overland build I’m doing for my wife so she can have something to start to off road and build. The rebuild was based off of previous owner I bought for really good deal that they were driving with an over heating issue dropped valve seats piston damage on 2 piston heads once I broke everything thing down. Thanks Any input is much appreciated, going to pull oil pan off once I get some time off work again see if anything is binding for peace of mind before I put motor in.
It should be a little harder to turn now that the crank is moving the cams via the timing chain. Turn the crank to the Point of resistance then look down the spark plug hole with a good flashlight you should be able to actually see if piston and valve contact is happening. Heres a little tip if ever setting the timing on another 4.7, take the roller rockers out so that the cams are not able to contact the valves, get the timing chains completely installed then slip the rockers in. Doing it this way its impossible for a valve and piston to hit each other during the chain install! Any futher questions hit me at BryansAuto916@gmail.com
Installed a long block couple weeks ago. Has a click from lower front of engine when cold but I can't hear it unless I lift vehicle. Owners wife sure can hear it through. Lasts about one minute after engine drops down to idle. Little puzzled by it. Seemed to be from passenger side. I'll get a better listen tommorow as has to sit for several hours to replicate. Engine only has100 or so miles.
Bryan, My 4.7 finally spit out a valve seat after 225,000 miles. I have my heads currently at the machine shop getting rebuilt and I am getting ready to perform the timing chain swap. I came across your video and it was unbelievable outstanding steps were perfect. Clarity of the video and your knowledge will help me get this job done right. I can't thank you enough !!!!
Was your project successful
@@ajarreaux 100% still running and she runs like a gem....
@@ajarreaux Yes sir, already has another 25K on her and going strong...
Glad to hear, I just got my heads off today. Taking them to the shop Monday
Thanks dude. I had an engine shop for 8 years. It is nice to see competent mechanics with patience, intelligence and pride in workmanship. I am doing a 2000 GC grand cherokee 4.7. .50mm hypereutectic pistons, enginetech bearings, .25mm crank, new guides and rock auto valves. Ebay chain kit and gasket kit. I am a little concerned about the seats, but we will see. Gonna do a nice little port match and polish. I have watched several viedos on how to do the timing. Your video has my mind where it needs to be. I will be going back through all your videos on this build just as a freshener course.
Dude not only do I like that you work CLEAN, out of ALL the videos Ive seen on 3.7 & 4.0 timing R & R fixes, your are the ONLY one that oils up the chains and rotates the motor...Kodos to you bro...MOPAR FOREVER.
Bryan cant be more thankful for your videos! I finished my 05 4.7 Ram 1500 head gasket job thanks to you.
Everything went well so far (300 miles).
Bryan I used a different torque method that only required 1-90 degree turn luckily. In the Ram the engine is so far back I kind of consider myself lucky I found it from another computer program source. I don't want to step on any toes but with your permission I would like to share.
Also install EGR valve on head before installing, might make things tons easier for the home mechanic.
Again..... thanks.
Craig, I was happy to hear my video helped get your 4.7 Back on the Road,
and Thank you for putting something in the Tip Jar too! email me your address or PO box so I can show my appreciation by sending a few small things to say thanks! BryansAuto916@gmail.com
Thanks for the video on 4.7 dodge timing I got my truck running thanks alot
Thanks for detailing this process as much as you did. I am now ready to overhaul my 4.7. Already ordered my parts after the machine shop did their work. Again, thank you for this information.
Glad it helped
I'm having problems finding the timing chain kit I than ordered 6 different kits and none of them are right
Great work man ..
I'm about to order the timing chain kit for my 4.7
Great video, Sir. Thanks for you the step by step.
Man. Thank you very much, the way you did it makes alit of sense to me, I have a 4.7 that needs head gasket replaced. And I was so scared to get the time off, and it needs all new timing chains and tensioners
After setting up timing chains I also installed the oil filter and break in oil . Used a non impact drill and spun the engine to pre prime the oil. Than installed rocker arms. Checked for compression and buttoned up the engine. This pretty much guarantees Zero issues upon start up.
Awesome videos covering this engine! Thank you so much for sharing brother
Thanks!
Thank you!
I like that u also like to rotate the engine and just verify that the timing marks are in the right place.
Thank you Brian for all your helpful and interesting videos. I'm just putting new timing chains in my 2004 Dakota. When i put the camshaft chains on, the two black links are not exactly center in the slot windows. I really can move the one tooth back or forth. they end up either on one end of the slot or the other. What do you recommend? thank you
You do good work, Wish you were on the east coast.
Bryan, you're my online mentor bro. I'm rebuilding a 4.7 at home and your videos have been priceless. One question: Where do you get the print outs that you show on your clipboard? I have a Haynes manual and Google but I get more REAL info from your vids. Thanks and continued success.
Thanks Brother, The spec sheet is from Chrysler by way of identifix repair software!
@@Bryan916 I'm looking for the print outs cause I need to replace my 2 cylinder heads and set my timming
Very nice explanation Sri, blessings
Very helpful keep making videos
Excelent video. Thank you for sharing your knoledge
Just remember…… TDC is TDC is TDC on the 4.7. It is critical to make sure your crank and cams are set up correctly. Once the crank turns one revolution the dark timing links will never be in the correct place to check them again. I also lock the cam chains around the idler pulley with rubber bands so they can not slip out of place as they are set over the cam gears. Once they are on the cams your good just remove the rubber bands.
Great help, it would also be helpful if you just started the torck setting as you go thanks
it was a very good video!
I chose to install rocker arms after the chain setup. made it a little easier
Extraordinary job brother, congratulations..... thank you.!!!!!
Nice location for the thermostat...bet they are fun to change
That was pretty easy-peasy
It's not too bad, but a lot easier outside the vehicle.
An old Chebby 350 in a 1970's pick up truck, Id consider that "not too bad" lol Where there is actual room to work, heck, crawl up in there and take a nap on the inner fender if ya like lol
I was charging the AC on a 07 Mercury Montego yesterday and kept burning myself tryin to get the charge hose unhooked. Just no room unless your hands are the size of a 3 year old lol
One more question for you Bryan. Did you get your bolts for timing cover and Timing kit from Mopar Dealer or did you save your old ones? I've came to notice that you can't find anything for sale unless directly from Mopar. PS. the individual that was rebuilding my durango went AWOL
I reused the Original hardware
I can't thank you enough. Thank you.
I promise this is my last question😅 Does the bolt @ 3:14 require loc tite?
And I apologize in advance if this already answered..
Yes
Great videos Bryan my 4.7 in my 2006 dodge Ram 1500 turned out pretty good.. I set timing as per video and book .. but on scan tool indicated crank and cam out of timing.. I had no.1 piston up and marks all aligned.. don’t know what I did wrong.. help plz
If you purchased a new timing kit some kits come with a new cam trigger wheel. If that's the case remove it and put your original trigger wheel on or buy a O. E Mopar part. Aftermarket cam Trigger wheels are know to cause this problem. If That does not apply in your case then your timing is more then likely a tooth off!
Take a look back at the exhaust manifold gaskets. They have two slots in the bottom corner holes. It should allow starting those two corner bolts, then sliding the gasket in place. Perhaps easier. Speaking of easy, you make this process look that way. Nice program.
Bryan, Doesn't your top timing chain adjuster have a metal plate behind it? Mine had one when I removed that top adjuster. Is it something that needs to be there?
If you are referring to the timing chain tensioner yes it needs to be there!
Bryan...thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Nice job 👏
Good job.you have a good knowledge
I have a 07’ 4.7 aspen. Cold start 67 psi oil pressure. After drive it few miles it warms up drops to 20’s and then like 0-8psi at idle so I shut it off. I hooked up an aftermarket gauge to find this out by the way. My question is I guess think oil pump and timing set might fix it, or do I need look more into main bearings? Thank you.
Sounds more like excessive bearing clearance. A weak or defective oil pump would have low to no oil pressure pretty consistently, a cold start wouldn't make much of a difference if the oil pump is weak or defective.
@@Bryan916 that’s What I was thinking but praying not. Lol. Thanks man. I’ll yank the engine out this weekend then tear it down
Awesome video.
I am doing this for the first time because I bought it from an auction and it need many of things so i decided to the head gaskets, timing etc..I am putting the timing together in the frame, chain colors in the sprocket and at driver and passenger sprockets, I did not release the tensioners just in case I need to remove everything again and it made it easier to remove, is that wrong or not first, second once your rotate the engine twice or a forth time should the colors on the sprockets line up again with their respective ingrained whole or is that only for when you initially apply the chains and sprockets!
The Color link are there just for installation. The color links will not line back up after a few rotations.
@@Bryan916 hey thanks man, yeh through watching your video it was after the fact then i noticed how yours didnt line up either..
I am watching your video as i put mine back together, thanks for the slow explanations!
Hey so i did the compression check like you did but i am not getting the same hiss sound, maybe i am missing it, but i feel like i have done things all good..oh well i am going to just press on like mine sounded like yours and hope for the best because i dont know what else could be!?
Does it matter where you have the ratchet when you crank? I noticed you coming up with it, mine is in the frame so not such an easy angle!
Sorry man to annoy but your skill is a blessing!
Ola mister Bryan como vai ? Voce sabe o peso total desse motor em serie ele daria uns 150 kg???
Another great video! When is the best time to install your rockers? I have my timing components out, I was do my valve seats and an HO cam install, Should I install the rockers before setting the timing? Or set up my timing then install the rockers? Which is safest? Wouldnt I risk bending valves either way? Thanks!
Hey man i have a question. i have a dodge ram 1500 3.7l. Is the timing the same as a 4.7. And if so I have rotate it twice but dont line back up. Would you have an idea why it doesnt?
You do great expiation of what your doing id trust your work although im in New York State. I’ll have to do a rebuild on mine it’s nfg. Have HO cam set, HO intake, might even get the HO heads, HO pistons and connecting rods, bearings from a donor junk yard and build mine with all the HO parts into my jeep grand cherokee 4.7 with broken timing chain
Do you do remote work?? I’m in EDH and Need to have heads and timing set/cover installed on my 05 RAM 1500 4.7. One of the lash adjusters on the passenger side came loose after the rocker arm popped off and shot through my valve cover.. I have the engine taken apart with the heads, timing cover and intake removed.. not real comfortable with the different torque values and tightening patterns..
Thank you - great video BTW..
I’m confused I have a 3.7 and have done everything exactly like this and while your turning it over if you look at the cam chain one side of the chain gets loose just like in this video when you see the tensioner squeeze in but on mine one side of the chain gets loose I can wiggle it with my fingers is this normal or no
Are you using new bolts or reusing the old ones
I used new head bolts. All the other bolts I reused. However all bolts on the 4.7 are reusable!
Thats awesome thank you its nice to see a creator that'll answer
thanks for your help
Does number 1 cylinder need to be TDC first before all of this?
Yes
Thanks u really been a big help I think I'm ready to put my engine back together
Lol "you wouldn't believe..." I work at O'Reilly's...oh yes I would believe XD
The 4.7l isnt a bad motor, but the maintenance has a few extras to do on it and no one wants to do it (or knows to do it) and the lifters go out and screw everything up...
Every 100,000 miles whether it needs it or not...lifters lifters lifters...if it starts knocking...park it and do the lifters...thats the big fail point...thats why I'm here...I got a dakota for $300...thing is rust free...Leather...fully loaded...undercoated, bedlinered...everything you can do to protect it was done....engine was clean as a whistle...but take that valve cover off and Bam...my gain though HAHAHA
Perfect guide video 👍🏿😊😊
What brand do you youse on the timing kit? Becurse it looks like a cheeper one? and I woundering how good this kit is if so. I need to replace my timing kit on my Dodge ram 1500 4.7L 2007 but I don't realy Know what to by becurse I need it to be cheep and I live in: Sweden and here is no after market Kit's to this car :( I have found I couple on eBay but I don't know if this will work a couple of years or will brake immediately ?
Pls help me out.
Cloyes Timing Kit
www.amazon.com/Cloyes-9-0393SX-Timing-Chain/dp/B004A5H3KQ
Thx 👍🏿👍🏿
Where can I get a timing cover gasket gasket for a 4.7 Dodge ram 1500 pickup
Do you have any idea what would cause repeated failure of a hydraulic chain tensioner in the 4.7? Iv'e had the whole timing kit replaced 3 times already in past 3 years. Oil pump was replaced too. Great video BTW.
Cheap part, Tensioner installed incorrectly, Low oil pressure, Oil blockage, Wrong motor oil used.
Hey I’ve done all the steps in this video when I rotated the engine the two rotations my colored marks were a tooth back. Try two more rotations went back two teeth. Did I possibly miss a step
Of course, the color links did not line back up after a few rotations, it would take more than a few rotations to get the color links back in that exact spot. The color links are there to set the valve timing only. After a few turns, you now need to refer to the timing marks. I suppose you could keep rotating the engine till eventually reaching that sequence again but it's not necessary!
Turned it 2 rotation's and it's not lineing up,anything I need to check or do?
You are the man thankyou
Brian, can you confirm that it's 250 in lbs for both bolts on the fixed guides, or is it 150 for the bolt that goes into the head. Also, for the other guides that only have one bolt, i believe that is 150 in lbs. After tightening to 150, i noticed that guide can slide back and forth along the bolt. I beleive they call it an Arm Pin bolt. Is it suppose to do that? I didn't notice it when I pulled it apart.
Hey Bryan. I like your videos. You are very methodical and take the time to explain why things have to be done a certain way. What is your impression of the Chrysler 3.7? Common issues? Repeat work?
Not much Different from the 4.7 both engines will produce a fair amount of power! They are great engines till you overheat it or reach high mileage than they pretty much self-destruct. Also, they can be really expensive to fix!
Kevin Lawrence I feel the same way. I keep waiting to catch him making a mistake so I can dog him lol. Been waiting for a while now. Bryan916 is good people too...hard to find these days
Bryan916 thats like the GM 3.8, great lil engines, just dont run them hot
Yep good engine till you heat it up, the heads crack on them way too easy too!
The ex did exactly that to one I had. Hose popped and let the smoke out, she just kept on rollin till it gave up the ghost
Just say someone were to torque the bolt for the tensioner on the head that you said not to an it were to slightly crack? Would you have to replace the whole head or can it just be left alone if it wasnt cracked completely
A slight crack will turn into a full-blown crack or split due to engine heating and cooling cycles. If it were me I would take the head to a machinist and have them fix the crack. But I would not run it with the crack!!!
How much would you charge someone for a headgasket on this engine?
Brian, when you’ve completed a double head, timing chain & oil pan replacement do you need to prime the engine with oil by turning the starter with the engine fuse removed or will the engine self prime on a dry start?? Also what do you recommend for a break in period after a job like this?? Tim -El Dorado Hills CA
Yes I would definitely disable the engine to prevent it from starting Then keep cranking the engine till you begin to build oil pressure. How I break my engines in is I drive a hundred miles then change the oil and filter. Then I drive about 300 miles and change the oil and filter again. The first hundred miles I keep it below 70 miles an hour and no hard accelerations.
Good video. But why you don’t use a torque wrench?
I do use torque wrenches! I've done this Repair so many times on the 4.7 I can do it with my eyes closed also I know how tight to take from past experience!
Please rebuilt my engine @Bryan916
Hey Bryan need some advice
Installing a time system on a 3.7 all marks match up , but when I turn the crank 4/5 times marks are off . Any ideas? Thanks
mike johnson wow then I should be good since the sprockets are all Lining up with the two cams at 12 , Idler sprocket at 12 and crankshaft sprocket at the 6 . For some reason I thought the chain marks need to line back up.
Man, how about telling people about the plate on one of the tensioners. Kinda important.
Which piston is at TDC?
Hey Bryan Was wondering if you might be able to shed some light on something I’m questioning. I’ve done a full full engine overhaul bored over .20 due to some slight scoring on cylinder walls that wouldn’t come out with just an hone. Had crank grinded to .10 machine work done by reputable machine shop engine block bare crank and head were completely handled by them. Parts and install done by me: Following everything to spec and am having an issue, I can turn crank by hand at a a good steady pace with no issues but if I turn it real slowly I’ll feel a resistance at a certain point after a a few ratchets , just finished timing install to the tee. Hoping I’m just being paranoid and hitting compression strokes. Highly doubt I’m hitting a valve. It’s on a 4.7 HO motor on 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee overland build I’m doing for my wife so she can have something to start to off road and build. The rebuild was based off of previous owner I bought for really good deal that they were driving with an over heating issue dropped valve seats piston damage on 2 piston heads once I broke everything thing down. Thanks Any input is much appreciated, going to pull oil pan off once I get some time off work again see if anything is binding for peace of mind before I put motor in.
It should be a little harder to turn now that the crank is moving the cams via the timing chain. Turn the crank to the Point of resistance then look down the spark plug hole with a good flashlight you should be able to actually see if piston and valve contact is happening. Heres a little tip if ever setting the timing on another 4.7, take the roller rockers out so that the cams are not able to contact the valves, get the timing chains completely installed then slip the rockers in. Doing it this way its impossible for a valve and piston to hit each other during the chain install! Any futher questions hit me at BryansAuto916@gmail.com
Thanks brotha appreciate it. Pretty much what the machine shop said. Feeling less stressed now. Good tip too. Have a good one.
Torque specs much?
Where can I get the paper diagrams you showed?
What your email I'll send it to you
@@Bryan916 shelbygt2121@yahoo.com
How do you find torque specs to everything
From Identifix a automotive repair software.
Bryan whats the pcv spouts called that you put on the heads?
Check under your hood at the emission label, I believe Chrysler calls it the crankcase breather port.
Hey Bryan where did u get the gasket for timing cover. Having trouble finding one
RockAuto.com
Installed a long block couple weeks ago. Has a click from lower front of engine when cold but I can't hear it unless I lift vehicle. Owners wife sure can hear it through. Lasts about one minute after engine drops down to idle. Little puzzled by it. Seemed to be from passenger side. I'll get a better listen tommorow as has to sit for several hours to replicate. Engine only has100 or so miles.
Meant to add... nice to see a tech NOT "flat-rate" an engine assembly. I can't bear flat rate time on engines cause I'm too careful.
RED loctite???? Holy shit!!!!
Before how do set cams if chain broke and they are off how do I rotate them how about cylinder 1 help thanks
Remove the camshafts make sure they are at the v8 on top
Can I reuse the same exhaust manifold bolts
Yes! put a little clean motor oil on them before installing.
I would wire wheel them and use antiseize.
Para América Latina, no podría ser en español
Pretty good do a timing belt video
There are so many stupid idiots on the internet. You are definately not one of them. Keep up the good work fella
Please rebuild my engine ???