£2000 Cosworth block machining FAIL, We’ve got a confession to make!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- In todays vlog we show more on the Jaguar engine build, we reveal if the Cosworth block is repairable, also, we have a confession to make with a machining error
Seeing jag on pallet with no rocker cover, would it be an idea to put a load of cling wrap to make sure no foreign bodies or dust, grit etc finds its way into the engine ? Even if it was just a windy day and that transport set up was being moved to or from transport it is not impossible for particles to be deposited into that open engine so just think some half decent industrial cling film would be appropriate,clean rooms and all that. Mind you Don’t start dressing Paul up like an Intel wafer lab tech as he already has his rave outfit days.
The torque setting for the connecting rod nuts would probably be given for unlubricated (dry ) thread. Lubricated threads require a lower setting. Also if it's a course or fine thread.
Lubricant Torque Reduction(%)
Graphite 50 - 55
White Grease 35 - 45
SAE 30 oil 35 - 45
SAE 40 oil 30 - 40
e.g. The maximum tightening torque for a slightly lubricated 1" Grade 5 coarse bolt is 483 lbf ft. Dry bolt torque is approximately 30% higher - or 628 lbf ft.
Edited spelling.
Fair play to you for owning up to the Cosworth block mistake! A man should always own his mistakes it says a lot about your character nice one!
1000% a building business I would work with if someone can do that on a place like TH-cam and admit it and sort everything... in my 27 ish years in the business people like these are hard to find nowadays
Would have wrapped the Jag engine as no rocker covers fitted, keep foren objects out during shipping.😊
We use a much smaller diameter bit to start with as a pilot hole to negate this issue. Then step drill as a general rule when drilling near 1/2' diameter holes. Has more to do with the load at the tip of the cutting tool. (larger bits tend to "walk" more)
Just a suggestion from an anal old machinist. Not an end all solution, just an observation. I learned this many years ago when I was an apprentice.
Hope it was helpful.
Honesty is the best.
I'm 55 now and realize that most of my mechanic life, I was ok at best. Now I think I'm fairly good.
One of the biggest things I learned was never dis another mechanics call, unless your really really really sure you have worked out they are wrong.
And watch out for VWs. And sprung tensioner bearings.
Don't spin them the wrong way.
The VW diesel motors go the other way.
One difficulty is that machining and engine building does not scale. You can only grow by adding more hands. So efficiency and productivity are important. People should not have to walk around to do things. You've already organized the engine-build area and in future you might need a dedicated area for heads, pistons and con-rod balancing. On the engine-building side you should start to stress that you are blue-printing. Eventually productivity in machining can be improved using a CNC to mill and bore.
Some thoughts for you:
With the success of your channel Barum is transitioning from sales-driven to brand-driven. Your market is becoming global but obviously it's easier to focus nationally. One question is how many engines are there in the UK that will come your way. Partnerships with suppliers are important but I want to suggest you develop a network of affiliates (you already have one across the road) to send engines your way. There should be signage, badging and other promotional materials for affiliates.
Hi mate I get this all the time hard spot's in sg cast iron, how I get around it is to get a carbide drill sharpen it up with heaps of relief. Then thin the flute out nearly to a point. Run it flat out and peck away, works great cheers from down under....
Hi Lee, Drilling them deep pocket holes. Get your self a length of silver steel the same size as the drilled top hole. Drill the silver steel and glue a centre drill in it. Then you can spot the casting good.
Steve
Even though everyone uses this motor holder, I'm convinced that the bottom blocks are warped, all that weight on 1 side, it's possible, but if you have to turn, then support it again at the end with an easy quick remove and attach support with rubber on top, even though 1000s work this way I would never do it myself, I would adjust the motor holder if I buy it myself
Set your block horizontal so you can tap the piston with one hand and guide the rod with the other- I always use some plastic tubes over the rod bolts to be sure they don't hit the crank pin.
I’m just thinking you would need three hands wouldn’t you to hold the ring clamp hit the piston and hold the rod
@@stephengreatbatch1269 No- once the piston is in the bore, then you only need 2 hands-
@@oldschool1993
Ar got ya see what you mean now 👍
Nice to know the pros put the pistons in exactly the same way I do, except I like to use a smear of Graphogen on the bores and journals.
Every joiner bends a nail at sometime
Love what your Doing and Saying
You are an honest man, Keep it up
Put up an 8x4 sheet of ply on the wall, paint it with blackboard paint and then you can explain things with simple chalk drawings. people can also put messages up to take the piss. your welcome
Isaac would probably draw a knob on it!
No, Paul would deffo do that.
@@tentotwo8290 agreed, it would be Paul 😂 you should see what he draws on the bottom of our coffee mugs 😂
@@IsaacBarum We put some kitchen style cupboards up in our shady old shed and I sprayed "6UN7" in huge letters across the wall before I hung them, then forgot about it. We were moving to a bigger shed and I was removing the cupboards when the new tennant was being shown round - with his wife and young daughter! Can you tell that "6UN7" is my favourite word?
Cool seeing more building and 'tips & tricks' banter.
For the long studs when drilling the hole could you not get a long sleeve threaded at the top so you could screw the sleeve into the top treads in the block and have it end a few mm above when the bottom hole will be located. Have a hole down the center of the sleeve for a 5 mm drill and you should not have any problems in the future...for the American V8 when you get to the oil pump take a look at the Melling Shark Tooth pumps, they have helical cut gears instead of the straight cut. I put one in my SBC roller and it works great, smooths out the oil flow and saves hp.
Nice fix on the Cosworth block.
Good video as usual hopefully see the cvh build progressing soon
It's great to see how all is done.
Thank you !
That Cos looks brilliant!!! Can't wait for the V-8. Right into my wheelhouse. (Although it looks like a Ford - not particularly fond of them) Love the care you take and the RESULTS!!!! Keep em coming Lee!!!
He’s near the harbour - may as well throw that ford boat anchor in there! 😅
@@eliotmansfield HAHAHA!!!
Just because it's a American V8, We strip down engines Lee, not a teardown.
Cool as always Lee. Any chance we could see a crank and rods being balanced? I often wonder how it's done! Thumbs up
Lee has done videos in the past showing how to balance cranks and how to balance con rods, suppose another one would do no harm really to refresh us.
@@madeljacky Thanks for that my friend! I'll go and try and find it in the vault of videos. However, as you said another one would do no harm to refresh us.👍 I would also like to see a crank being reground👌
I also did a segment on balancing cranks a while back but not sure which video it was
@@catxls1835 only too glad to help out, check out Lees crank grinding video th-cam.com/video/ZDHB5FHqagg/w-d-xo.html and the balancing con rods here th-cam.com/video/vxePNICpXM0/w-d-xo.html
@@madeljacky Thanks man👍
What program do you have in place to check that machine's are up to scratch, love what you are doing
I don't see why the blocks aren't studded like that from the factory, to prevent distortion of the bore and deck, studs tapped into the main webbing will be much stronger than those until the deck of the block, but it's not a extreme power racing engine, I tend to over engineer things , like my dad before me, he built a trailer to haul a car on, it was supposed to be light weight, a friend had a similar trailer, it was built from 2"x 2" sq tube frame , my dad said it had a slight flex in it, he built his stronger , haha, he used 8" channel, with two strips of 2" angle steel, 3/8" thick running the length of the channel, and used 4" channel x-members, every 18" with gusset to make up the difference, and brace the x-members, then it has a 4" sq tube down the middle, from the hitch to the axels, it has no flex, not with any car on it, the thing can haul a dozer, D4 anyway, maybe a D6 with different axels,!!
But things must be built to a cost, and serve repurpose keep the cst down, I'd want 1" thick decks, cylinder walls nice and thick, with a main webbing the bearing width, and 4" tall+ with the studs , 3/4" , threading nearly 2" deep, with ORing deck, using a MLS gasket, with. 4x, 3/4" main studs, with billet caps, but that isn't cost effective, and would handle the combustion of a high performance Diesel!
Make a hardened sleeve insert,
that fits down the top hole,
make it smaller than the finished size,
use that to line up your drill bit,
should run true.
Try swapping the Draper drills for Dormer
Would it be worth making some sort of long endmill so you can make a flatspot on the casting before center drilling ?
Agreed, but the slot drill will do the same. I'm surprised that it wasn't done as a matter of course because the casting will be rough and having a nice flat landing will guarantee a good start.
Yep , see my comment on the last video. lol
Defo the way to go. I use a long end mill to mill a flat, then a dedicated centre drill, then drill.
I would hope the exposed Jag engine on the pallet will be further wrapped to prevent foreign debris entering.?
It won't matter.
They won't honour the warranty anyhow.
Thats a TTV billet flywheel , I've used a few of these RV8 etc
If anyone put negative comments about how you done it must be the perfect human
I would never try to drill a hole over that length without spotfacing the surface first, I would spot face with a slot drill first on every one of those you do. Good work recovering it though 😊
Thanks Lee, keep ‘em coming.
Hey up , some real expert commentators on here bit like the muppet show
Overall the key performance indicator should be time to delivery. You should optimize so engines are not sitting around waiting for a build to be completed.
Super channel .
Didn't you tell us before about end mill thing ?
there is the Jag engine finished, holes taped up to keep crap out, and FU.. me, top of the motor is wide open
Nice solution 👍
Torque is lbs/ft not ft/lbs. There is a difference. ft/lbs refers to work. If in doubt think of the metric system Torque is Newton/metres
Might be an idea to always first use a slot drill first on those Cosworth engines. Ensures you have a flat surface for the centre drill instead of a rough cast surface One step added to the whole process to ensure no more drill wandering
Or use a full face cutting carbide end mill
Yep , see my comment on the last video. lol
why own up now, bit odd you didn't explain in the last video?
Have you thought about collaboration with other youtubers like Saving Salvage he has a r8 v8 that is f up or a reaction to Matt Armstrong on his Lamborghini.
Familiar looking flywheel what a strange one that 🤣
When you balance the pistons could you not just remove metal from inside the gudgeon pins ?
9:02 Easy just use a short section of clear PVC tube, few bob at the most.
I cant recall if you have shown an engine which is seized and how you go about freeing off the rods also the rebuild. may be you have?
Do you ever use graphogen paste rather than oil when building the engines up? Does the oil drain from the bearing surfaces if left for a while?
What you gonna do soon for work combustion engine is dead .... electric motors
Lee do you not use Graphagine lube building a engine I’ve used it always
Why do your holes wonder and not wander?
Can we have more VR6 engine content please
A quick question! If your block skimming machine dropped a lung have you a spare back up machine to keep the business running or would you need to source a new one causing obvious major delays on customer orders?
We have 2 head refacing machines, the skimmer we use daily and the head grinder which we use for certain applications. So yes, we have a backup that would see us through until repair is possible!
@@IsaacBarum Cheers Isaac. Thanks for your reply.
Take a bit more water with it is my stupid advise thanks for the video
All good stuff but on that 200 block will that plug stay there? Its a friction fit so I couldnt trust it myself but thats just me in the same way I didnt like helicoils.? Love this channel but I am a very much from an engineering background although not one myself per say.
Plug will stay. The new hole is across its edge, so it's effectively locked and can't possibly turn. New thread is in block and plug, so some is good original iron. Plug thread shouldn't pull and strip any more than the stud thread would. I'd trust it.
@@davidpalk5010 Ok .
@Glenn Powell if you imagine a side on view of a helicoil, if you pull upwards on the bolt or whatever in the centre, the helicoil acts like a wedge. It gets pushed outwards into the parent material as much as it pulls upwards. As the helicoil is harder than the parent material and whatever bolt you put in it, a correctly fitted helicoil is significantly stronger than a plain thread the same size. If you were to look at, say aftermarket v8 aluminium heads, they are fitted with helicoil style inserts from new for exactly this reason.
@@iainball2023 Seconded. Many high-end competition alumninium and magnesium castings have steel helicoils fitted as standard, and I often fit them to alloy threads as a precaution rather than a repair. Back in the good old days at Rye Harbour, Harry Weslake always liked using helicoils to re-inforce threads in soft or brittle material. However, helicoils can be a bit of a nightmare if they bind to the male thread and unwind when removing a stud or bolt. Guess how I know this? (-;
Surprised the E-type head was not painted in the original gold colour
were they all gold? as i thought a lot were left in Alui,
I don't think it's for an E-Type going by the oil pan
@@stevem7868-y4l Original is gold the comp ratio is stamped inside the valley by the cam chains have a 4.2 one in the shed I pulled some 30 yrs ago
Nice video, good work. Just an observation, I notice that you guys don't wear gloves when assembling engines. Two points, oil is a known carcinogen and as I'm sure you are aware, it gets absorbed into the skin (I am an old mechanic and it used to take two weeks off work before my hands were clean, so I know), so you are potentially poisoning yourselves, and point two, the acids and oils on your skin can cause corrosion on cast iron, steel and white metal. Wouldn't it be best practice as well as a health and safety issue to wear gloves?.
Like I've asked on previous videos don't you check tolerances with plastic gauge.
No, we measure housings with a bore gauge and measure crank journals with a micrometer!
@@IsaacBarum plastic gauge is what professional machine shops use to confirm the clearance values as it is far more accurate. This shop needs to up it's game.
@@IsaacBarum Isaac the plastic gauge is used after the machining and will give you a measurement down to a couple of tenths on the main and big end journals. Most engine manufacturers use it especially Honda. Micrometers are subject to errors of touch between different users. Lee should be able to confirm this. At 67 I've worked for a few car /bike manufactures over the years. Don't be afraid to learn new information and keep up the good work. Never take shortcuts.
You should wear a glove puppet. 🤣
It take's a man to say sorry nice one
YOUR ALOUD ONE F UP A YEAR .