Iv always fitted legs first, don't know why but it works well for me. they hold the head up while i pull down and fix. My two lads do it your way. Each to their own, no right or wrong way if it's neat
Cutting the V with the coping saw was a nice touch!! Personally I would have cut it straight with a chop saw and caulked the internal corner. But that’s why you’re a master craftsman and I’m not!! 🤣
Myself, when it comes to new door linings,I always swing my doors before fitting the arcs, firstly so that I can use the same back set on my router jig, secondly, I can use wedges to tweak the jambs to suit the door, (especially on new builds, fit your linings ever so slightly wide) Thirdly, there's no risk of a stray pin getting in the way of hinge or keeper recesses. For me it's, doors, arcs, skirts. But each to their own.
Hi Sally, That door was hung first, it opens in but was removed as the floor was tiled. Definitely better to hang doors before arcs. Thanks for watching.
@@adamallen8863 is it some sort of international elechicken conspiracy? Maybe there’s some ancient texts they learn in elechicken school telling them bollox to the other trades!
Love your videos mate. Recently I started making up architrave on the floor first, like a goal post, mitre bond the mitres on the floor to get them nice and flat and spot on, while that goes off, put the adhesive round the lining then just stand it up and you’re ready to go
I thought this guy seems bit rough and then I saw that scribed joint slide in nice and was pleasantly surprised. He must have done a few of them in his time!
Hi Fadi, I usually draw the height of the pigs ear ( top and bottom) on the wall where it’s going to be fixed then you can dissect it ( join the angles up). Then use a bevel to transfer the angle on a mitre saw. When returning it into a corner it really needs to go in level and miter it. Hope this makes sense!
@@fadiabdallah8388 I usually try and respond to most questions, however I do miss some. If you take time to watch the videos the least I can do is try and answer questions. Thanks for watching.
We did do architraves this way about 15 years ago I always found a extra blob of no nails behind arch’s helped flush the mitres up then pin from top. Doing house after house, frame after frame we would be able to sight the “quirk” margin too These days we use mitre bond and glue sets up on floor full house floor at a time even cutting full sets a a time and say all 2’6 door heads together etc
Nice job mate, can't beat the traditional way of fitting arc's, head first then the legs and white glue. It's alright using mitre mate but over time it goes brittle and the other thing is if your fitting arc's to a casing you haven't fitted and there is a discrepancy in the parrell, if the head is fitted first the mitres can be fitted to keep the margins even.
I use calk for skirting bedding also if you run a line of it along the top of the skirting and number 2 finger it off when it squeezes out once its nailed. The decorator will love you as the joint between wall and skirting is completely filled and wont crack.
Dan, what’s your thoughts on the method of 2 part glue the header to the legs first and then fix as one? When fitting the door frame do you have any tips on getting both legs plumb as it’s not always possible to eye them from an angle. I would appreciate your thoughts!!
Hi Paul, 2 part glues are great however sometimes they do get sucked into dry MDF and I’ve had to apply more glue. I find it easy to just fix the top arc first. Each to their own. I’ve seen on various social media some chaps use string crossing the diagonals of a door lining to get it perfectly flat. (In wind) It should touch when it meets in the middle.
Cheers Dan for the reply. I have using the string line method on a double frame before. I’ll bear it in mind for the future. You are right about the mdf sucking the glue. I have had a couple come apart when you lift them. It’s always good to have different methods in your arsenal, so thank you. Your videos are inspirational
Cut all the heads and legs number them up, lay some bearers down then glue the complete set using the pen and spray glue, do every set and just put the next 1 on top so you end up with a pile then load them out bit of adhesive on the back and pin them on, perfect mitres every time
Always hang door first then latch followed by door stops tack first then use the nailer. Architrave mitres biscuit jointed. And the back of architrave to skirting at floor level . Doesn’t take much longer
Great job Dan, and I particularly liked your sweeping up method of leaving it a corner😜(you'd never catch me doing that on site🙄) Thanks for the video guys😎😎
Hi @@elliottgeorge5850, yes sometimes I do. On this site the linings were a bit big so I cut the head and wedged them over. Generally if all the linings are made in a workshop and are the same then just cut plenty of arc heads the same size.
Easiest way I have found Is to scribe and mark all of your arcs ready to be cut on the saw all at once then build them on top of one another on the floor or saw horses with mitre bond then lift as a set to each opening and pin to linings fast and easy
@@danridesbikes683 never had any issues . The corners are held solid by the glue so even if the frame isn’t square there’s that much flexibility in the mdf you wouldn’t struggle . There’s just no way those mitres will ever be as neat as glueing them on the floor ( dealing with uneven walls etc . )
Another good one from dan....you do have to be careful using silicone based glues not to get any on the finished surfaces, the painters will kill you if you do as paint won’t stick and it shows up.
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. which type of nail gun would be used to secure architrave and skirting? Finishing gun? Framing gun etc I'm new to carpenter, I saw some skirting secured using a nail gun, but I don't know which gin was used.
@@bilbobaggins1824 for fixing skirtings and architraves then you really need a finishing or a 2 nd fix gun. These fire small pin type nails. This makes filling for the decorator easier. Framing or 1st fix guns fire a much thicker nail and are generally for construction.
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 Some run a mile from one or the other. There are plenty out there who do framing and won't touch second fix. Robin Clevett avoided it for years because he says there is no money left in the job by the time it gets to second fix so they are always looking for a cheap price. There is some truth in that but then you get the mastic man who comes in and charges £200 for half a day.
Interesting using silicone. We used to alway use ct1 but is soo expensive. Found a really good alternative, made by 3c called multiuse adhesive and sealent. Absolutely swear by it now and its not too expensive especially if you buy it by the box.
Clear silicone very cheap sticks well to freshly plasted walls and will pull the plaster off the walls before it pull off, only down side is you need to be careful not to get it on painted items
Dan works on sites and they have labourers who are paid less than carpenters and that is why the boss would not be happy to see Dan with a dust pan and brush. The fact that he sweeps it into a corner to stop it being kicked around it 100% right.
Fit the head first then cut the mitre on the first side piece but leave it about 2 inches too long. Then with the side arc upside down and with the point on the floor offer it up to the door frame. Mark where the base of the side arc meets the top of the head arc then mark it and cut it at 90 degrees. Do the same for the opposite side architrave. Easy! If you need filler on those 45 degree mitres then I'd be asking for a refund on that mitre saw.
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. Haha, youve never struggled with maths in your life!! No, it happens. A client I had years back used to say the opposite of what he meant which made things difficult. He called them "malpropisms".
I glue my architraves on the floor then fit them as a set, the mitres are always tight then.
Same here, best way i think
@@TheUkGrimekid what if the frame is out of square or is that rare and can be dealt with?
Iv always fitted legs first, don't know why but it works well for me. they hold the head up while i pull down and fix. My two lads do it your way. Each to their own, no right or wrong way if it's neat
Cutting the V with the coping saw was a nice touch!! Personally I would have cut it straight with a chop saw and caulked the internal corner. But that’s why you’re a master craftsman and I’m not!! 🤣
Myself, when it comes to new door linings,I always swing my doors before fitting the arcs, firstly so that I can use the same back set on my router jig, secondly, I can use wedges to tweak the jambs to suit the door, (especially on new builds, fit your linings ever so slightly wide)
Thirdly, there's no risk of a stray pin getting in the way of hinge or keeper recesses.
For me it's, doors, arcs, skirts.
But each to their own.
Likewise
Hi Sally,
That door was hung first, it opens in but was removed as the floor was tiled. Definitely better to hang doors before arcs.
Thanks for watching.
Same
Same
Dan should of considered a career in electrics with a cleaning up method like that! Would be a massive improvement to trade
That suggests he actually touched a broom
Sparky are the same in oz
@@adamallen8863 of course I’ve touched a broom..
don’t mind sweeping up, occasionally.
@@adamallen8863 is it some sort of international elechicken conspiracy? Maybe there’s some ancient texts they learn in elechicken school telling them bollox to the other trades!
@@TELE6220 thanks for clearing that up!😂
@@benchippy8039bless must be depressing using all your power tools to do your work and never have to use your brain for anything
Love your videos mate. Recently I started making up architrave on the floor first, like a goal post, mitre bond the mitres on the floor to get them nice and flat and spot on, while that goes off, put the adhesive round the lining then just stand it up and you’re ready to go
Thanks Luke. I’ve heard a few chippies making it up like you. If you find it works well then that’s the way..
find thats the best way,and I use expanding foam to seal door and help adhere archs ,works great ,oh and fire foam for fire doors
Nice work Dan, carry a small piece of carpet and you can sweep it under that😊😊👍
😂👍🏻. Thanks Peter.
Nice one Dan! I’ll bring my dustpan and brush next time I work with you🤣
The 60 looks a lovely little bit of kit!
Cheers Ian. Look forward to it 🧹🧹
The 60 is great. 😉
I thought this guy seems bit rough and then I saw that scribed joint slide in nice and was pleasantly surprised. He must have done a few of them in his time!
You've nailed it Dan!
Impressive work from Dan, as usual! Thanks for a very interesting and useful video.
Thanks Steve.
Dan's the man !!!
Hi Dan
I was wondering have you ever fitted pigs ear bannister? If so how do you work out the angle
Thanks
Hi Fadi,
I usually draw the height of the pigs ear ( top and bottom) on the wall where it’s going to be fixed then you can dissect it ( join the angles up). Then use a bevel to transfer the angle on a mitre saw.
When returning it into a corner it really needs to go in level and miter it.
Hope this makes sense!
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. better than my 4man you've responded faster than him lol, thanks very much.
God bless
@@fadiabdallah8388 I usually try and respond to most questions, however I do miss some.
If you take time to watch the videos the least I can do is try and answer questions.
Thanks for watching.
We did do architraves this way about 15 years ago I always found a extra blob of no nails behind arch’s helped flush the mitres up then pin from top.
Doing house after house, frame after frame we would be able to sight the “quirk” margin too
These days we use mitre bond and glue sets up on floor full house floor at a time even cutting full sets a a time and say all 2’6 door heads together etc
Phew 😥... good to know I'm doing it the right (Cox) way... Unfortunately I always seem to have 225mm Ogee profiles to cut on refurbs! 😬
Love the channel, great work
Innovative use of the plane iron there. Good stuff as always.
I use the worn out plane iron for loads of jobs. Very handy in my nail bag.
Thank you : )
Dan making it look easy as always 🤩👌🏼👍🏼🧱
Thanks chaps. 🙏🏼
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. 😁🧱👍🏽
Nice job mate, can't beat the traditional way of fitting arc's, head first then the legs and white glue. It's alright using mitre mate but over time it goes brittle and the other thing is if your fitting arc's to a casing you haven't fitted and there is a discrepancy in the parrell, if the head is fitted first the mitres can be fitted to keep the margins even.
I use calk for skirting bedding also if you run a line of it along the top of the skirting and number 2 finger it off when it squeezes out once its nailed. The decorator will love you as the joint between wall and skirting is completely filled and wont crack.
Like the sound of that
Which glue did you use on the corners of the architrave?
Dan, what’s your thoughts on the method of 2 part glue the header to the legs first and then fix as one? When fitting the door frame do you have any tips on getting both legs plumb as it’s not always possible to eye them from an angle. I would appreciate your thoughts!!
Hi Paul, 2 part glues are great however sometimes they do get sucked into dry MDF and I’ve had to apply more glue.
I find it easy to just fix the top arc first. Each to their own.
I’ve seen on various social media some chaps use string crossing the diagonals of a door lining to get it perfectly flat. (In wind)
It should touch when it meets in the middle.
Cheers Dan for the reply. I have using the string line method on a double frame before. I’ll bear it in mind for the future. You are right about the mdf sucking the glue. I have had a couple come apart when you lift them. It’s always good to have different methods in your arsenal, so thank you.
Your videos are inspirational
@@paulyoull5472 many thanks 🙏🏼
Cut all the heads and legs number them up, lay some bearers down then glue the complete set using the pen and spray glue, do every set and just put the next 1 on top so you end up with a pile then load them out bit of adhesive on the back and pin them on, perfect mitres every time
Always hang door first then latch followed by door stops tack first then use the nailer.
Architrave mitres biscuit jointed. And the back of architrave to skirting at floor level .
Doesn’t take much longer
Do skirting go all the way to the floor or do we leave a small gap?
Ive always used white silicone to fix architraves and skirting boards for years now, never liked gripfill skins to quick and grab adhesive are shite
Great job Dan, and I particularly liked your sweeping up method of leaving it a corner😜(you'd never catch me doing that on site🙄) Thanks for the video guys😎😎
Thanks Del. 👊🏻
Hi @@elliottgeorge5850, yes sometimes I do. On this site the linings were a bit big so I cut the head and wedged them over. Generally if all the linings are made in a workshop and are the same then just cut plenty of arc heads the same size.
Easiest way I have found Is to scribe and mark all of your arcs ready to be cut on the saw all at once then build them on top of one another on the floor or saw horses with mitre bond then lift as a set to each opening and pin to linings fast and easy
Is it easier to hang the doors first before putting on the architrave?
yes
Great thanks. I couldn't see any doors in the video and I was debating with the in-laws about it. I have been proven wrong 😂
Why anybody would choose that method is beyond me … mitre mate them up on the floor - make the whole house on the same pile then .
What if your frame is out of square? Your 45 mitre won’t work
You may occasionally have to dress the mitre to suit the frame if you get what I’m saying
@@danridesbikes683 never had any issues . The corners are held solid by the glue so even if the frame isn’t square there’s that much flexibility in the mdf you wouldn’t struggle . There’s just no way those mitres will ever be as neat as glueing them on the floor ( dealing with uneven walls etc . )
@@DP-di2pi Have to agree with this, and the old rule is if you fit the door liners you fit the door...
Who fitted these liners? Dan. Why would they be out of square?
Some of the fit and finish I've seen skirting in new builds would make you think Stevie Wonder did it with Ray Charles.
Another good one from dan....you do have to be careful using silicone based glues not to get any on the finished surfaces, the painters will kill you if you do as paint won’t stick and it shows up.
Thanks fire blaster. 👊🏻
Which type of nail gun is he using?
It’s a Makita finishing gun. It’s been ok however I wouldn’t buy another Makita framing gun.
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. which type of nail gun would be used to secure architrave and skirting?
Finishing gun? Framing gun etc
I'm new to carpenter, I saw some skirting secured using a nail gun, but I don't know which gin was used.
@@bilbobaggins1824 for fixing skirtings and architraves then you really need a finishing or a 2 nd fix gun. These fire small pin type nails. This makes filling for the decorator easier.
Framing or 1st fix guns fire a much thicker nail and are generally for construction.
Soudal Fix All is a brilliant adhesive.
is that the one like gripfill but in a silicone tube.
@@MelbourneAlan no it’s a different product entirely. It’s in a 300ml tube.
Dan is a framer and a finish carpenter? Very impressive!
Most chippies do abit of both in the u.k. we call it 1st and second fix.
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 Some run a mile from one or the other. There are plenty out there who do framing and won't touch second fix. Robin Clevett avoided it for years because he says there is no money left in the job by the time it gets to second fix so they are always looking for a cheap price. There is some truth in that but then you get the mastic man who comes in and charges £200 for half a day.
Good trades like this are hard to find.
well done
Interesting using silicone. We used to alway use ct1 but is soo expensive. Found a really good alternative, made by 3c called multiuse adhesive and sealent. Absolutely swear by it now and its not too expensive especially if you buy it by the box.
Clear silicone very cheap sticks well to freshly plasted walls and will pull the plaster off the walls before it pull off, only down side is you need to be careful not to get it on painted items
Put more adhesive on ends of skirting then you can plumb up the skirting by pushing the next piece against it.
Does anyone know where to get his compass from?? Mine broke and I can't find a replacement
Any High school in the 80’s
Nightmare mate
Uscribe jig sells them. Picked one up a while back
Awesome
Yes, nice work. Just a shame the plasterers can’t get the wall flat behind the skirting boards. All too common a problem with some plasterers.
Thanks Richard. A very common problem now days.
What nail gun is that Dan cheers
A really crap Makita.
I do it this way, it was what I was taught, works for me. Nice Job, I always clean up Ha HA .
Dan works on sites and they have labourers who are paid less than carpenters and that is why the boss would not be happy to see Dan with a dust pan and brush. The fact that he sweeps it into a corner to stop it being kicked around it 100% right.
I need to know what prices these guys are on? Coz if I followed half of these tips I’d take so long I’d end up owing the contractor money
I've just had a joiner in to fit new skirting by a radiator. He put 2 nails straight through the copper heating pipes. Nightmare 😬
We have all done it tbf 😂
I put a screw through a pipe when I put up tile guides and I was the one who put the pipes in, fortunately I know a plumber
Blimey those walls are nice 'n' Plumb.
That's the roofers way to do 2nd fix)
Proper carpenters can do it all.
Nooice!
Fit the head first then cut the mitre on the first side piece but leave it about 2 inches too long. Then with the side arc upside down and with the point on the floor offer it up to the door frame. Mark where the base of the side arc meets the top of the head arc then mark it and cut it at 90 degrees. Do the same for the opposite side architrave. Easy! If you need filler on those 45 degree mitres then I'd be asking for a refund on that mitre saw.
You’ve Been Framed!
Cant stand it when rads are piped up like that. There's nothing better than a nice bit of copper.
Couldn’t agree more would look much nicer with nice clean copper coming out the wall
Na you can hardly see pipes on rads now, much better looking nowadays
@@dalemoore11 nah, nice bit of burnt copper with a few mucky white speed fit elbows looks the dogs bollocks
I don’t mind seeing a bit of copper too.
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. most walls are white shiny copper not for me, move with the times lads 😂
Who ever fixes the frame should hang the door and fit architrave . Too many 'A' levels in this game nowadays
How many times have you heard “your fired”, clockwise is going right not left.
Yes we know the clock is going backwards and we are all getting younger
👍
MDF this MDF that
What TPI are your saw blades on the chopsaw?
48tpi or a 64 tpi will cover most 2nd fix work. Softwood or hardwood.
Wait... which way do clocks turn over there!?!?
I was wondering who would spot that anti clockwise sweep of the hand. Unscripted, unrehearsed, there is a lot to think about.
@@SkillBuilder 😉
@@danielbuckner2167 well spotted.. when Roger gets the camera out I struggle to add 2+2, it has that effect in me..
🥴
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. Haha, youve never struggled with maths in your life!! No, it happens. A client I had years back used to say the opposite of what he meant which made things difficult. He called them "malpropisms".
@@danielbuckner2167 I hope he didn’t say the opposite when it was pay day…
Silicone on skirts, the painters nightmare
Just behind notion the face 🔨
Hate architraves, just a way of hiding bad work underneath.
And the Rads with the centre spur supply point....fucking nasty . dont use them
+
For the love of God...buy some new saw horses !
They was made, many years ago. Can’t throw them away..
carforumwanker Are they worn out?
@@SkillBuilder More worn than a bradford hooker on a monday morning
What is he saying?!? Is that dude speaking English?!?
Just kidding, I had to slow it down. You guys talk fast over there! :) cheers
@@jasonp9951 apologies for my mumbled southern accent.
put the subtitles on …. Thanks
jokeeeeeee