What if I wanted to run a complete different amp for door speakers. Being connected to stock amp can I still do so? Or will I have to bypass the factory?
I’ve wrecked my brain on how to run my power wire for over a year, currently it’s running down the passenger side and through the spot between the door and fender, squishing the wire and causing it to loose a lot of power. When the door is open you can definitely hear and feel a difference. I’m definitely about to go back out and run it this way. Thank you a million times over. I appreciate it!
Update, amp blew not long after this post. Warranty the amp, it’s still sitting in the box waiting to be installed. I’m slowly buying all new wire, going from 0 Down to 4 or 6
I hooked it up the way you did it but the sound from the subs are not as strong. Everything works but just the subs are not bumping fully. Any thoughts on what I did different?
So I have the stock radio. I have the Bose logos in the A pillar tweeters. I when I went to install the converter in the plug in the center console. I noticed it doesn’t have anything to plug in down there. It’s missing the female side. No wires missing a plug or anything. Thoughts?
In theory what would happen if one would connect both positives of the pac cables to one positive of the stock amp wires and both negative pac wires to one negative of the stock amp wires?
Instead of the PAC GM31 I used the NUITH kit basically the same. Issue I’m having is that the rear speakers don’t seem to be connected. Would I still need to tap into the Bose amp even though I used the wire harness for camera and steering wheel control?
would anyone have a picture of the actual wire diagram with the colors of the wires? I thought the dark green and the dark blue were the positive rear speakers?
The guy before me had this thing (07 yukon) all wired up and has wires ran and I noticed on my bose amp there is just straight speaker wire spliced into the wires on connector…what does that mean?
In my install I had to install a switch because I was having the same problem. But I’ve since upgraded to a down for sound amp that has a Bluetooth bass knob that turns on the amp. So I don’t need the switch anymore
Depends, but usually if your factory wiring is in good shape, you can use a T harness or Bose amp bypass to send your signal to each new speaker. OEM wiring generally can support up to about 100w RMS.
Hey Provo, I followed these instructions perfectly and did everything the same. When I first turned my key forward all was good sub was playing then I turned the key off to clean up some wires and turned the truck on to test run the sub and now I’m getting absolutely no sound out of my speakers 😂. I’ve checked everything amp fuse, radio fuse and wires to them. 2008 gmc Yukon xl Denali Bose system I’m guessing I fried the stock amp somehow but have absolutely no idea how that could of happened. Any idea?
I’m now wondering if I could tap into the factory head unit on my 05 Silverado (with the Bose system) to add a subwoofer. I think the factory radio would look cleaner. Do you think it’s possible?
Question for you @promobeastaudioinstallation I put a aftermarket pioneer dmh-341ex radio in my 07 Yukon Denali XL and 2 amps and 4 super tweeters and 4 midrange speakers and 2 15s I ran my 0ga power on driver side of the truck and rca's on the passenger side but I'm still hearing engine nosie through my system could you help me out with that
Check your grounds, clean them up. Also consider moving grounds to the frame directly. Replace RCA cables, or your radio could be the problem as well. Generally poor quality RCA cables and bad grounds are the culprit.
My factory radio W/ Bose, no navigation, maxes out at 45 clicks. I used an SMD DD1 off the high level, feeding Subwoofer under center console. I detected distortion W/ Test Track 40MHz, at 31click - No distortion at 30 clicks. Hope this helps!!
So you put an aftermarket radio why did you use a converter for the sub? Why not wire right into the head unit... im sitting scratching my head why you would do that. You'll never get the quality sound out of that pac like rca's directly to the head unit...
Radio in this vehicle was the factory navigation, not an aftermarket radio which is why we pulled our signal from the factory Bose sub. If you had an aftermarket unit, yes, you would alternatively run your RCAs to the sub output of your new radio.
I have a 2011 yukon I already put an after market radio so all i have too do is run my rca from back of unit and remote no need for a converter correct
I followed your steps with an after market radio. When I turn everything on the subs we’re playing something different than my radio & when I switch to Bluetooth it plays the music but the amp goes off and subs don’t play. What could be my problem??
A wiring issue to me. Your remote turn on wire may be connected to the antenna blue wire of your aftermarket radio instead of your remote turn on wire. Way too many variables to diagnose here in a youtube comment.
i have a 12 in my back of my tahoe running 1500 watts and i was playing music and it turned off but the amp is still on and all wires are all hooked up and no chance it blew up , idk if you know whats wrong or if someone can help ?
1500watts is a good amount of power but it’s not a lot to kill the alt, a good lithium battery as the main and in the back with big 3 and 0 gauge all around and you would be set with that same setup with no significant voltage drop
Anyone looking for a cheap way to install battery bus bars. Just buy mending brackets at Home Depot, get some half inch screws with nuts and got bus bars for under $20
With 3k RMS, you will want to not only go directly to the battery, but you will need an upgraded battery, potentially a secondary battery, big 3 upgrade, etc.
It's an audio ground (optional), not a DC ground, and in most instances used to help reduce ground loop noise. We didn't have that issue, thus wasn't necessary to connect.
@@ProvoBeastAudio thank you. Just finished my install today and your video was my prime resource. Especially specifying which wires to splice to with the line out converter in the console. Thank you for taking the time to put it together.
![เขามัทรี - เอ็กซ์ ศุภกฤต - จอนนี่มิวสิค [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AS9ufKuQIVs/mqdefault.jpg)
Parts linked in the description of the video!
What if I wanted to run a complete different amp for door speakers. Being connected to stock amp can I still do so? Or will I have to bypass the factory?
Thanks in advance!!
@provo beast Audio what type of terminal do I need for my ground wire to hook it on that stud 2007 tahoe
@@bears893bypass factory. I’m gonna run the RCA’s from back of headunit to the 4 channel, then speaker wire to each door speaker
Would love to see how the LOC power and ground are connected here.
Really clean install my guy! This basically got me all set to get my sierra Denali bumping
I’ve wrecked my brain on how to run my power wire for over a year, currently it’s running down the passenger side and through the spot between the door and fender, squishing the wire and causing it to loose a lot of power. When the door is open you can definitely hear and feel a difference. I’m definitely about to go back out and run it this way. Thank you a million times over. I appreciate it!
Fd`0
Ya bro that’s ridiculous. Always use a firewall
Update, amp blew not long after this post. Warranty the amp, it’s still sitting in the box waiting to be installed. I’m slowly buying all new wire, going from 0 Down to 4 or 6
@@MrSlm1981 Unplug the power wire and remove it. You dont wanna burn your SUV down. Def route it like in this vid
Samee here dude
Great info and quality video/audio. Will definitely subscribe. Thanks for posting!
Beautiful damn work just beautiful a true professional
How does it sound tho? I see a lot of videos of how to install it, but nobody ever shows it working.
No comment.🤔
Y'all did a great job name Raymond
I followed you step by step but inonly have bass when i unplug ome of my RC cables ..
I hooked it up the way you did it but the sound from the subs are not as strong. Everything works but just the subs are not bumping fully. Any thoughts on what I did different?
I can't get my power through the channel along the door, it's full of factory wires
So I have the stock radio. I have the Bose logos in the A pillar tweeters. I when I went to install the converter in the plug in the center console. I noticed it doesn’t have anything to plug in down there. It’s missing the female side. No wires missing a plug or anything. Thoughts?
In theory what would happen if one would connect both positives of the pac cables to one positive of the stock amp wires and both negative pac wires to one negative of the stock amp wires?
Should have put a piece of abs under the amp... You are suffocating it for air in the vents underneath mounting it on the carpet
If I have an aftermarket receiver do I still need a line output converter with the Bose system? Or just connect rcas and remote wire to the receiver
professional thanks
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks 👍
Where did you connect the positive and negative from the loc
How to do you connect the fuse if using a extra battery
Where did you buy the 2 brown wires the grounds at did you hook them up to something?
I have no sound followed instructions exactly added ground and no ground ie brown wires and still nothing . Any suggestions?
Nice Fuse Holder. :)
Isn’t that ground spot right above the fuel tank? I’m afraid I’m going to puncture it
Location for the remote wire if you are using an rca converter???
Will this process work on my sierra? I have the same dash. It’s a 2008 sierra slt
How did you set the line out converter. Can you just turn it all the way up?
Instead of the PAC GM31 I used the NUITH kit basically the same. Issue I’m having is that the rear speakers don’t seem to be connected. Would I still need to tap into the Bose amp even though I used the wire harness for camera and steering wheel control?
How do you remove that cover under the dash where you tapped into for the remote wire?
What socket or light did you use as a remote
Now she’s a hunny bunny 🐰😈😂🖤
What do you suggest setting the gain dials on the line output converter so as not to interfere with dialing in the gain at the amp?
Buy a SMD DD1. Check out his videos on TH-cam he will walk you through it all. Steve Meade is his name
I have a question on my Tahoe I don’t know where to hook the battery cable on my aftermarket radio
would anyone have a picture of the actual wire diagram with the colors of the wires?
I thought the dark green and the dark blue were the positive rear speakers?
You recommend to install a capacitor ?
The guy before me had this thing (07 yukon) all wired up and has wires ran and I noticed on my bose amp there is just straight speaker wire spliced into the wires on connector…what does that mean?
What did you do with the other wires from the line out converter? Capped off?
Wondering the same thing
Okay where would be the second best place to put those if I’m using the back could I have one set behind the passenger seat?
Do you have a full install video??
Having problems with the remote wire. We tried every fuse on the side. Amp still stays on and it’s getting very aggravating
It’s not on a true remote line on the head unit. Have to find it
In my install I had to install a switch because I was having the same problem. But I’ve since upgraded to a down for sound amp that has a Bluetooth bass knob that turns on the amp. So I don’t need the switch anymore
I tap it to an loc since the loc gets the signal from the rcas
Having the same issue now on a 2010 burb ltz. Stays on when connected to fuse panel on the driver side dash.
What does it mean if your Yukon doesn't have any audio to anything that requires sound
Do you have to run a 1 ohm amp to utilize the pac module so you don't have to change the factory radio? I'd like to keep my factory radio if I can
Wheres the brown wires go
Those are Audio grounds if you have any noise in the signal. If no noise, they are not needed.
Same thing needed to run mids and highs or is it best to just run new speaker wire through each door?
Depends, but usually if your factory wiring is in good shape, you can use a T harness or Bose amp bypass to send your signal to each new speaker. OEM wiring generally can support up to about 100w RMS.
Hey Provo, I followed these instructions perfectly and did everything the same. When I first turned my key forward all was good sub was playing then I turned the key off to clean up some wires and turned the truck on to test run the sub and now I’m getting absolutely no sound out of my speakers 😂. I’ve checked everything amp fuse, radio fuse and wires to them. 2008 gmc Yukon xl Denali Bose system I’m guessing I fried the stock amp somehow but have absolutely no idea how that could of happened. Any idea?
What did you find out?
I’m now wondering if I could tap into the factory head unit on my 05 Silverado (with the Bose system) to add a subwoofer. I think the factory radio would look cleaner. Do you think it’s possible?
I did it
Question for you @promobeastaudioinstallation I put a aftermarket pioneer dmh-341ex radio in my 07 Yukon Denali XL and 2 amps and 4 super tweeters and 4 midrange speakers and 2 15s I ran my 0ga power on driver side of the truck and rca's on the passenger side but I'm still hearing engine nosie through my system could you help me out with that
Check your grounds, clean them up. Also consider moving grounds to the frame directly. Replace RCA cables, or your radio could be the problem as well. Generally poor quality RCA cables and bad grounds are the culprit.
@@ProvoBeastAudio okay good looking out bro
I’m following this video but I need a ground point for the line output converter I bought. Where can I do that?
Depends where you are installing it. Any chassis ground is fine, bare metal, etc.
I’m planning on setting my gains with the smd also but what did you give yourself for a reference point since this radio doesn’t show a volume number?
My factory radio W/ Bose, no navigation, maxes out at 45 clicks. I used an SMD DD1 off the high level, feeding Subwoofer under center console. I detected distortion W/ Test Track 40MHz, at 31click - No distortion at 30 clicks. Hope this helps!!
So you put an aftermarket radio why did you use a converter for the sub? Why not wire right into the head unit... im sitting scratching my head why you would do that. You'll never get the quality sound out of that pac like rca's directly to the head unit...
Radio in this vehicle was the factory navigation, not an aftermarket radio which is why we pulled our signal from the factory Bose sub. If you had an aftermarket unit, yes, you would alternatively run your RCAs to the sub output of your new radio.
I have a 2011 yukon I already put an after market radio so all i have too do is run my rca from back of unit and remote no need for a converter correct
Correct
I followed your steps with an after market radio. When I turn everything on the subs we’re playing something different than my radio & when I switch to Bluetooth it plays the music but the amp goes off and subs don’t play. What could be my problem??
A wiring issue to me. Your remote turn on wire may be connected to the antenna blue wire of your aftermarket radio instead of your remote turn on wire. Way too many variables to diagnose here in a youtube comment.
@@ProvoBeastAudio I appreciate your response. I’ll check that out again
i have a 12 in my back of my tahoe running 1500 watts and i was playing music and it turned off but the amp is still on and all wires are all hooked up and no chance it blew up , idk if you know whats wrong or if someone can help ?
Possible the signal wires from the stereo because loose or unplugged
Will a convertor still be needed regardless of having the stock radio or aftermarket head unit with the bose system?? Thank you for the video!
If you have an aftermarket radio, no line out converter needed as you will just run RCA cables from the sub output of the new radio to the amp.
@@ProvoBeastAudio awesome thx for the reply!
Is T tabs conector any good?
At what point should you upgrade the factory alternator so that the electrical system of the vehicle is not over loaded with the amp drawing power?
1500watts is a good amount of power but it’s not a lot to kill the alt, a good lithium battery as the main and in the back with big 3 and 0 gauge all around and you would be set with that same setup with no significant voltage drop
@@torrez8144 I think these tahoes come with either 120a or 145a alts from the factory, it should be okay with even a 1.5k class D monoblock
@@Luminous.Dynamicswhat if i run a 2,000 watts? It should still be fine ?
@@doughpywidit4112 2K rms? Which amp?
@@Luminous.Dynamics soundstream BXA4-1800 has 1,800 watts
Anyone looking for a cheap way to install battery bus bars. Just buy mending brackets at Home Depot, get some half inch screws with nuts and got bus bars for under $20
If im running a 3k watt amp could i still run it from the factory fuse too?
With 3k RMS, you will want to not only go directly to the battery, but you will need an upgraded battery, potentially a secondary battery, big 3 upgrade, etc.
1800 Watt amp is fine to use with my vehicles single agm battery right? No upgrades needed?
You’re fine. Only if you’re going 3000w or more is when you need to upgrade the wiring, alternator, and secondary battery.
@@Mayjah_flexxso 2,000 watts is fine for that fuse under the hood?
How much does it cost to do that?
If you have the bose sound system do you need to replace the stereo for the remote wire and rca?
Nope, a simple line out converter will do (just like we used in the video).
@@ProvoBeastAudio thank you
How much would you charge for a install like this ?
150;
Will it fit under second row seats?
The amp? It did for us.
Honestly worst way to run it that rubber grommet is like 3 inches thick
Do you sell the mounts you used for the fuse? I’d really like to get one made
We don't sell them privately, sorry!
Did you not hook up the ground wires on the line out converter?
It's an audio ground (optional), not a DC ground, and in most instances used to help reduce ground loop noise. We didn't have that issue, thus wasn't necessary to connect.
@@ProvoBeastAudio thank you. Just finished my install today and your video was my prime resource. Especially specifying which wires to splice to with the line out converter in the console. Thank you for taking the time to put it together.
My line out has a yellow 12volt ignition and ground, do I need run to fuse box?
Hey are you located here in Provo utah ?
Not Provo exactly (but that was the city where the channel was formed), but we are in Utah county!
Ohh okay I stay in Provo I like your videos also I need help with audio you stil doing it ?
I don’t have any power
Where are you located
Utah!
Was the skar 4 gauge ofc amp kit good for this setup?
Yep, great amp kit!