Not sure if that’s a car guy. I just get my car running in general, cause real car guys don’t have extra money for sound systems, yet, this should already be a reliable Honda build… Lolol!
@@SkarryTerryNah you can do things like this as a car guy if its your hobby and you have disposable income. Sometimes, car parts take forever to arrive.
Ive installed numerous subwoofers over the last twenty years of car ownership. Ive never had the foresight to put the box on my head. Jimmy is a gd genius. Protect that man at all costs.
They did say a part of the build was to make it comfortable also. Did you not pay attn to the last ep when they installed an AC compressor? If it was a pure track car it wouldnt need an AC.
I've worked on car stereos in the past, and here are some things they didn't talk about: 1) even if speakers are the same size, replacement speaker magnets are probably larger, 2) on older cars, consider using dynamat to cut down on rattles and keep things tight, 3) speaker cable (gauge) is important, but you don't usually need to get expensive cable like Monster, 4) if you're really driving bass, you may need something like Thundercaps to hit the highs, 5) consider running component speakers than all full range - separate woofers & tweeters, but you'll need to cross them over, and 6) depending on the power of your system, don't run it off the battery too long unless you have a separate battery for the stereo.
Man I miss those days but modern cars don’t have DIN units anymore and the high end ones already sound amazing. But a used older car, you can definitely re live those days. My 87 Mercedes 560 I’m running a period correct alpine hu and graphic eq, 2 alpine v12 amplifiers, a Sony amp, component speakers with passive crossovers, 2 Zeus subs, and that Sony amp runs headrest coax speakers from Clearwater! It’s redonkulous
@@12pagani My 13' GS350 doesnt have a DIN but you can bet your arse i still slapped my 2 JL 12w3v3's with a 1000w rms Alpine amp in that puppy and upgraded the speakers to Mark Levinson ones. You just need an adapter to connect to the factory head unit and a line converter and your good to go. I will say the equalizers in those double/single DIN aftermarket head units are way better than anything OEM.
Yeah. Wow. I remember in like '11 me and my friends had a little competition for the loudest sound system, and you never heard Kurt Cobain so loud in your life.😅
Can we do a series about the audio side of things? Beyond wiring, there’s crossovers, sound deadening, I’m really interested in seeing a custom fiberglass speaker door pod creation. That’s great sensory footage too!
as an at home audio engineer who's been building his own speakers for quite some time now, you can get away with a very nice sound system for way under 850 if you know what you are doing. You can get as complex or simple as you want to, from using stock speaker wire and just splicing in the new speakers for an ok result to rerouting the speaker wire and doing a full bang up job to produce better results (i went for this). Currently my daily driver runs 4 speakers, 2 4 way 6x9"s in the back running a peak of 450w a piece with an a 90 w rms. In the driver and passenger side doors i have two 6.5" 3 way speakers running 400w peak combined, 200 w alone, 400w combined which they are. My head unit came with a built in amp but i dont use it, it maxes out at 50 peak wattage which would be way too under powered, i just got it because its a pioneer and i have had a good experience with their audio processing equipment (this is what i spent the most cash on, about 200 bucks) its analog because i hate touch screens in the car. I have a used amp i picked up off craigslist for like 40 or 50 bucks, and its right in the goldilocks zone for my setup up (finding used audio equipment is easy) so i went with it. The speakers are also pioneer, about a little over 100 for the set of 4 (they are A+ series, the trick is not buying the ones registered for the us, buy the international market ones, same quality, same result, 50 to 70 dollars cheaper depending on the model). Hardest part of it all was routing the new wire, but if you use a little big of carful thought you can have an easier time than i did. before you remove your old wires, tie a string to them, and tie the other end to your new speaker wire. as you pull the wire out it will feed the new wire in and through, and you wont have to worry about the logistics of it at all (i didnt do this and spent like 3 hours trying to get my wires where i wanted them to be routed). I dont have a sub because its really not necessary. with the 4 speakers i already have the car shakes enough to loosen the mucus you have stuck in your throat/ lungs lmao. If my car shook any harder i would be concerned about bolts and other cosmetic fasteners getting loosened. Quality of head unit is above all else. its literally like 50 to 60% of the end result. no high quality audio processing, no good sound. period. Next is the quality of the speakers, higher price = higher rms and peak, meaning you can have higher peak volumes, as well as higher sustained volumes, without loosing out on clarity. Next in line is the amp. you dont need the best or most high quality amp. 99.99% of people will never even see a sound system that justifies the expensive amps they are looking at buying lol. just get a decent one, used even better. nobody ever sees it, after you set it up you shouldnt be touching it again unless you really know what you are doing, and so long as it can support the constant as well as peak draws, then there should not be any problem whatsoever. oh, and one final word of advice. skip the component speakers. go with coaxials. Components are nice, and very high quality, but its a waste to put them in a vehicle. 1, the road noise is going to take away from the experience you get from component speakers. 2, they are expensive as all hell. 3, they are more difficult to set up, and require you to actually have some understanding of what is going on. 4, cars are no where near well sound isolated aside from high end luxury vehicles, throwing a pair of components in your door is a great way to hear every last loose piece of plastic trim vibrate like a mfer. 5, you are too distracted in the car to take notice. so long as the music sounds good and clear, thats good enough, you aren't going to be having a profound listening experience while weaving through rush hour traffic on your lunch break lmao. All that being said, i am a huge fan of them. Component speakers belong in a room with purposeful acoustic panels, your favorite drink in your hand, sitting in a nice recliner. I have my own monitoring boxes. one set made with alpine mid subs and tweeters, and one set made with pioneer products. LET ME TELL YOU SOMETHING. sound is a physical experience with these things man. a living breathing entity. anyone who is an enthusiast about music i highly recommend making, or picking up a pair for at home listening. I dont say this often, but the things changed my way of life.
also i forgot to mention, never combine high output amps or head units with your stock speakers and speaker wire. this can and usually will result in bad audio, blown speakers, and in the case of the speaker wire being to thin and the amp or head unit trying to push too much power through it: melted wires, and most likely some fire. IF you are on a budget, just wait, save up, and buy the whole set up at once instead of doing something really dumb. $850 isnt a crap ton for a really good audio system, and you could even spend more, but to get up there where the different becomes pretty hard to establish on a daily basis, right around $400 is the sweet spot. (thats only if you can install everything yourself without damaging the car) GL out there bass heads. i salute you.
I think it is better to mount the amp to the car and secure the sub with ratchet straps. It makes things a lot easier if you need to remove the sub in order to carry something. And you can go to the track listening to music, remove the sub to make some laps, put it back and go home listening to music :)
@@eriklarson9137 I don't think it is easier if done correctly. Installing the amp to the car could be more difficult if you want better cable management. Installing seatbelt mounting brackets to attach the ratchet straps correctly is not as easy as just screwing things. And i also think it is safer. There is a reason fuel tanks are strapped to the car. How long will the screws stay in place when thrashing on a race track? Safer = Better Have it like this for years on my car. I can remove the sub in seconds and the rachet strap also secures my tool box when I carry it around :)
Man, it's been AGES since I've installed a stereo system. I used to be such a bass head. lol Not only am I just older now, but so many new vehicles stock stereo systems sound balanced enough to keep me happy these days. Fun times. Miss those simplistic installs though like in this Civic. Now the head unit runs half the car. lol
This. I have a 2017 car and the stock head unit is crap, but it also part of the CAN network, and removing it makes the car basically not work. Gotta love these “functionalities”..
When I was young me and a friend had a little speaker shop in my garage. So many people had no idea what they were doing. We had probably 30 cars in town we did and many more out of town. We would buy used parts and re use them. If you had a system and wanted an upgrade, we would give a discount to trade speakers and head units. It was super fun and taught me a lot about electrical systems in cars and making custom boxes taught me a lot about sound. I have always been an "Audiofile" and would never take those few years back. Now I have nothing in my car and a gnarly system at home with 2 15" Solo-Baric's. Makes my house feel like an earthquake.
it’s possibly broken issue is the electrical system is struggling to keep up with the amount of current draw you have on it. even with the lithium battery you should look into upgrading your grounds and positives. also look into high output alternators
Should be fine with original alternator, just better ground and power cable from it, I run way bigger subwoofers and speakers on stock alternator and never had a problem with power, done it in a lot of different cars with different size engines, and most stock alternators give out around 80A so the stock one is usually fine as long as you have good ground and good + cable, and a good battery or batteries😅
@@dr.beardie9894 oh yea that's true, forgot about that, but should be ok with the stock alternator😅 tho they maybe should put in an extra battery or a bigger one atleast and upgrade power cable from alternator ant the grounds, then it should be ok for that small audio system, would be fine with the battery they have if it wasen't for the power steering pump😂
@@hugomyllykangas8442 All depends on the ohms vs wattage being run. This is why uneducated audio people should not hook up systems. 1000 watts rms @ 1ohm = 100amps of current draw (Based on electrical equations). This also fluctuates based on the amps rated voltage and efficiency. For example my amp runs 3000 rms at 1&2ohms at 14.4v. But it uses 304amps at 1 ohm and 334amps at 2ohm. Which means it is much more efficient at 1 ohm. But 1ohm is more clean and pure power (less resistance) so the 3000rms hits much harder on 1ohm than 2ohms. Also, never install a system without the BIG 3. BIG 3 = New lower gauge power wire from Alternator to Battery, Battery Negative to Ground, and Engine Ground. DO NOT WASTE MONEY ON A CAPACITOR. You need hundreds of Farads to make a difference. They are useless. I could add more to this. Just ask.
I would bet dollars to Donuts they just turned the gains and crossovers to some random setting without giving it a second thought. Should have used a DD-1 distortion detector and set it up properly. It would sound much better :)
Agreed bro I did this professionally for a while and alot of the stuff they did annoyed me for one cheap sound systems never work two they should have spent more on the box
Fresh coat of Tahiti Green after a carbon fiber roof, adjustable front splitter and a rear diffuser. Maybe a big circle on the doors and hood for a racing number.
Man this takes me back. My first car. 1993 Honda Del Sol aka the Del Slow! Bought it used of course. Came with an aftermarket Kenwood headunit and (at the time) no clue what speakers. IT SOUNDED LIKE ASS. The speakers rattled, sounded fuzzy, and listening to the radio was aids. Even putting a disk into the unit it still sounded god fucking awful. My first brilliant upgrade was going to walmart and buying a cheap $60 pioneer headunit plus wiring harness. This is around 2008/2009 price/performance wise. Went home, got some tools, installed the headunit. I even soldered the wires between the headunit pigtail and the wiring harness. Perfection. Most of my sound issues were fixed, but the speakers were still rattling. They were clearly "bad" to begin with. But the fuzzy radio, fixed. Clean signal from radio. And as far as CD's went, I could now play MP3's which was huge because I could have more songs per disk.... anyway, I knew my next step was to get speakers. I knew what I wanted, I just had to get them. AT THE TIME, Newegg had just started selling car stuff for some god awful reason and the prices were cheap as hell. I picked up a full set of 6.5 kicker speakers for mad cheap. I think I paid $120 for both ($60 each). Which was a killer deal. They got delivered and I went on an install spree. Fantastic, sound was now off the hook AND I could crank that bitch to MAX VOLUME with no distortion. AT THE TIME I had no idea about power matching or even tuning a system. All I knew was, I could max out volume and it sounded fucking fantastic. My buddy used to be like "holy shit your system is LOUD, I can hear you coming down the road blocks away" which was funny as shit to me. I like it loud. Next stage? subwoofer!!!! I already had a kicker 12" subwoofer from when I was in highschool. I worked for pepboys while in highschool full time (I was 18 senior year, not held back just early birthday, feb) and was in the schools work program. Essentially you went to school half a day, get out early, then had to work so many hours in a week (I think 15?) but since I was an adult I worked full time. The class HATED me because "there is no way he's working full time when I barely work 15 hours" but they were just lazy shits. I had a strong work ethic so fuck them. My teacher even came to my job MULTIPLE TIMES to check up on me to make sure I wasn't lying about working full time. But even my manager confirmed I was actually working and not just pretending. And that I was indeed being paid for full time work. They showed THEIR records to my teacher showing the hours I put in. Long story shorter, I set a record for most hours worked that my teacher gave me an award for at the end of the year, that "I am pretty sure no other student will ever beat." So yeah I am a legend. HAHA. Anyway, I had the subwoofer which was installed into a box my father brought home from work from some customer who wanted to trash the gear. Two subs, one JVC (that classic teal color, was missing the dust cap) and one Sony Xplode (you remember, those red plastic ones with the funky cone shape). And they were installed in a dual sealed box. Even had an amp. I DIDN'T know the amp was bad so when I was using it, I was upset it couldn't go higher volume but later in life realized (when I gained more knowledge) that the amp was bad. Anyway, I used to run my kicker in that setup after the JVC woofer blew (again, was already bad, just got worse with use). Eventually I went to bestbuy with my dad and we got one of those "origami make-it-yourself" boxes. a 12" sealed box. You know, its T shaped and you simply glue the edges, and then use zip ties to hold it together. I thought that was dumb so my dad had wood screws in the garage and I made sure it was screwed tight. Anyway, now I just needed an amp. I ended up going to walmart again and buying that Crunch amp for like $60 bucks. Plus wiring kit for another $40. Hooked it all up, wired in, and man, not a bad difference in sound. HOWEVER, the del sol has that back window that rolls down that blocks trunk access from inside the cab. And there was only really 2 holes on each side for air to pass through. I remember seeing the JL $1000 twin 8" box made specifically for the del sol. It would mount behind you where the storage trays were and had TWO tubes you would stick through those holes on each side to "port" into the trunk. so subs inside cab and then port tubes into the trunk. Back then I didn't understand why until I had my 12" in the trunk. While I had bass, it was "never enough".... eventually I moved the subwoofer into the passenger seat and BAM. HUGE bass output. That was the golden moment. I removed the passenger seat (no bitches rule and was single so lmao) and just had my subwoofer next to me at all times. Even when street racing. The old days LMAO. The car after I had was my 2006 honda s2000.... putting the sub in the trunk, fuck me, basically no bass. horrific. drifted a lot, crashed a lot. eventually traded it in. but I had tried all kinds of gear. I tried a JVC headunit (sounded like ass) I tried JBL Speakers (didn't like the sound profile and still didn't know about using the EQ to change that sound profile) and eventually settled on a pioneer DEH-80PRS along side some POLK MM speakers. That was the "golden" combo to my ears. I just needed a subwoofer. After that car I got a 2005 STI and in that I had my polk audio and headunit installed, tried a few different subs. at one point bought a twin cerwin vega box, ported, and I HATED how it sounded. pure ass. at the time I wasn't sure why but ended up realizing that I don't like ported systems. too much noise. I prefer sound quality which means going sealed every time.... anyway, after that built my own transmission line box and put in a 12" pioneer sub, low profile, which blew. "you can't use low profile in a t-line" learned that lesson. got a 12" full size pioneer and it still didn't sound right. the bass was there, but only really noticeable when OUTSIDE the car. inside you felt like you wanted more. had to do with the t-line and how the audio wave amplifies, while in the car you are in the early path so its not much bass but outside the car it was boomy as fuck. so trashed that system. now I don't have any system, sold the sti and only have my 2015 mirage left, but i can't drive it because I was injured (spinal cord) and can't walk anymore. hell can't feel my lower body (t9 complete). i want to heal so bad, but most likely wont happen and modern medicine isn't really modern, doctors are stupid as fuck. so no cure for me.... stuck as a cripple.... but if I did heal, I would end up going back to a kicker setup. I would get a sony headunit, kicker speakers, that new 5 channel sony amp (100w to all 4 speakers at 4ohms and like 500w to subwoofer) and then a kicker sub in a single 12" sealed box. that would be the dream build for the mirage. also if I healed, I would want to find another del sol to build again. since its my favorite car of all time.
You guys should do a software tuning vs hardware upgrades test. So many people I know will upgrade their hardware without even playing with Equalizers, high quality audio files, and even HD audio drivers. This is all possible with a phone and can easily make a bad sound system good, or make an amazing sound system sound even better. Cheapest way to get better audio quality is software. Apps like wavelet and poweramp are MAGIC
Facts, just a DSP and some equalizer work can make a base model car sound like the the upgraded sound system that people option on for a couple thousand more. Alot of people spend so much money on hardware but it still doesn't sound great because it's simply not tuned
Aeropress for the win personally. I have been using one since the 1990s. Main reasons to use: makes an excellent coffee, easy to clean, requires no cord, takes very little space in the kitchen. I have one at home, one at the office, one at a cottage. Also price.
Have you tried a moka pot? If you like strong - very strong- coffee the moka pot is undoubtedly better. For about 11 years I was using a French press exclusively then I switched to aero press .. but it would only churn out a very small amount of WEAK coffee. Not nearly strong enough for my liking. Then I bought a bialetti moka pot and never turning back to the weak aero press!
If you're only running two speakers, I'd bridge the 4 channel part of the amp. You'll roughly gain 3 dB which will help the mids sound even better. If you're ever interested in if a custom subwoofer enclosure makes a difference over a pre fab I'd be up for shipping you out a custom built enclosure. I have over 14 years experience designing and building. I can email numerous pictures of my work for examples.
Def take this man up on his offer! a custom ported enclosure will really make that sub shine even being a budget model! The only other thing i would have added is sound dampening especially with the doors already stripped down!
God this took me back to high school putting a $1500 system into my 93 Saturn sc2 I bought for $500. Also what taught me stick and how to work on cars to fix….due to my ignorance. Also, the lovely alternator issues that weren’t thought of at the time 😂 Old cars were so fun and “easy” to put systems in. Thank you for the nostalgia blast!
Yall should go over "stuffing" a sealed box vs non stuffed sealed boxes, and capacitors, bridging amps, etc. Watching this episode brought up alot of mid 2000's Era system instal myths too me.
Kinda miss building sound systems in vehicles and spending thousands while doing it. Luckily I've worked some cool projects even some SEMA stuff back in my 20's for the MTX Juggernaut van. Also did lot's of SPL & DB Drag competitions..
Not going to lie, as a subwoofer box designer and being big in the audio world, this was kind of upsetting. Not that everything you purchased was really "bad" but definitely overpriced and that budget could have been used much better. I have designed and built systems for cheaper that would easily outperform this. Still, cool video though! Also thank you for mentioning to RMS ratings, its crazy how many people fall for the hype of "MAX" ratings they won't ever see but chase anyway and end up damaging their equipment. OFC wire was also great to mention. So there is definitely some good info in this video. If you ever want to upgrade that prefab box for one that is louder and sound even better, hit me up. 😉
@LingLing1337 it's so easy to walk into a best buy and drop a ton of money on audio gear that is subpar. It's all marketing hype and it's sad how mainstream the overpriced crap is.
I have more or less 1k in my sound system but. 2 amps(sony 1000w mono block for sub. Autotek 1600 4ch) 4 6.5 mids 2 tweeters a 7 band preamp wiring. And jvc head unit.
Wiring a speaker out of phase (positive/negative flipped) wouldn’t create a no sound condition coming from the sub. Not sure if that was just a little extra drama or theatrics 😂 Great content my only recommendation would be to also touch on the resistance of the speakers as that directly plays into the RMS power / speaker pairing. Car speakers are pretty standard at 4 ohms, but subs can be a little trickier depending on if the sub is single or dual voice coil, and the minimum impedance the amp can handle.
Not sure why you believe that. Wiring a dual voice coil subwoofer out of phase will provide no sound. The signal going to each coil will be exactly 180 degrees from each other, so the two voice coils will be fighting each other with the exact same frequency.
@@dslynx fair point, no arguments there. Where I went wrong was assuming the sub that they used was single voice coil, as they did not share any video or information of wiring the two coils together. In a single coil setup would be impossible to wire two coils out of phase, but in this scenario I agree with your analysis.
FYI for some of these cheaper sub boxes it helps to add some MDF bracing and polyfill inside. It will keep the sub from resonating and giving you that "cheap" bass sound.
I installed a hide away sub in my 2017 Honda civic under the front passenger seat and good lord it’s awesome it literally turned it into a massage seat all my friends fight over the front seat lol
You really said that about a $850 audio system??? I can tell you nothing about audio. Also, old JDM cars rattle like nails in a tin can. They are not sound insulated at all. Worst cars to put a loud subwoofer in.
@@carlospacheco8640 I have 2 10 inch ported subs, they sound great and it only costed me $1000 for the whole setup. They clearly didn't tune the head unit properly so it's not going to sound as good as it could be. Also, all cars rattle if you get a loud enough system, but rattling is an easy fix. It's not just old JDM cars lol.
If you're running a subwoofer amp only... Add a simple toggle switch to the blue wire. Sometimes you want to listen to the radio without bumping your ears off.
MDF is not that expensive , but you will have to buy a sheet . A box requires a lot less money that a sheet , If you have more than 1 projects to build or you like to build staff in general , then is ok to buy a sheet . But keep in mind that it requires some tools to cut a sheet . Zak is giving good advice :D
It is expensive. Actually in Australia all wood even the most basic pine is very expensive and thus woodworking is not a cheap or easy to get into hobby.
Great video! Did you guys thinking about setting up a sort of quick disconnect subwoofer? A simple way to unplug and unbolt the sub when you take it to the track? Reduces the weight and risk of things flying around
It’s just 3 wires (+, - and remote) plus the RCA’s. Shouldn’t take more than a minute or two to disconnect. But I doubt that the small amount of weight it add really affects the performance.
With all the nice mods done to the car, I wish they would have went with higher quality products. They installed like a $500 system with a $1000 budget. Could have done a full alpine system with apple car play and component speakers. The typical set up when you’re running a dedicated amp is to run components in the front and coxials in the rear. If you’re gonna install a kicker, do the solobaric. No explanation around svc vs dvc and no explanation around OHMS!!! 😢 I was super excited for this episode.
Your amp is way overkill bud lol!! And to the folks that can't put a new head unit in no worries! A line out converter will allow you to get low output from your speaker wires to RCA with a remote. Oh and the euro press is at your local Walmart
Top tip, route all the cables down the passenger side 👍 That way, you wont have to worry about cables falling on to the pedals 😁😉 And you could've just swapped the cables over on the amp, rather than taking the sub out the enclosure again 😉🍻
It's not even wired wrong. I mean, it should works anyway, even if the cables are connected in the opposite way, but in the case of a dual coil sub, it depends on witch impedance you want from it and also if you want it on phase or counterphase...
I bought a 2014 Mitsubishi Outlander GT with the upgraded Roford Fosgate stereo (includes subwoofer) and I have never enjoyed road trips (even trips to the grocery store) so much in my life. Music makes all the difference.
I hope y'all didn't run your RCA wires on the same side as your power wire. (will create noise) Did you "gain match" you amp to your headunit? ( To prevent clipping ) Also in the engine bay you want some kind of wire loom to help protect your + cable. Last thing you need is a dead short.
They mounted the amp to the sub box. And you want them to know how to use an oscilloscope to match the gains (or have equivalent tools to perform that task)?!?!?
Having reversed speaker cables would only cause to the speaker to play out of phase This means that when one speaker cone is moving forwards (compression) the other(s) will be moving backwards (rarefaction). But it would still play so I’m wondering if something else could be wrong
I came scanning the comments to find this. The speaker polarity swap was obviously NOT the problem, so why did they decide to lie to us? Or did they just accidently "fix" it while their hands were fumbling around with the subwoofer wiring... in which case it ain't really fixed.
@@dslynx Oh, thanks. I had to go look up that model number. The two terminal sets are on opposite sides of the basket and Donut only showed one set of terminals, and swapped two wires with no explanation. It didn't occur to me to think DVC.
I'll always love donuts content. You make a video and I know it isn't a 5 part series of an exhaust install where one video is unboxing another is looking at it and a third of installing the clamps with 15 mins of filler video. You guys don't click bait. You make dope content.
I don't usally comment about sponsors but I have to vouch for the Aeropress. I have used it every morning for over two years now and nothing makes a better cup of coffee in the morning. Love mine and will be upgrading to the clear one soon.
i was gonna get a older civic as my first car but i can’t find any that’s cheap and actually runs without any problems and this car yall built is truly amazing i want to build a civic sometime in life and this is an amazing car
Another thing you would like to add is a capacitor to stop the engine from bogging down when the bass hits and the interior lights dim, also add a cut off for you sub and door speakers so the sub isnt trying to produce frequency's out of its range and so the door speakers aren't trying to produce bass, trust me.makes the whole system sound way better
@Donut, i love you guys but pleasestop spreading myths . Coming from a professional audio engineer, You don’t need oxygen free copper for audio. Put the money into speakers and amps. Just make sure the cables are thick enough. There will be no audible or measurable difference. Running Bluetooth audio in your car and expecting OFC cables to be a factor in the audio quality is just dumb.
As a basshead myself, you did the right thing by going with ofc wire. The part you got partially wrong is the custom vs pre fab boxes. Pretty fabs are generally not tuned correctly and custom boxes are built way better and tuned for a specific sub. If you just have a little sub under 600rms, a pre fab is fine, especially if you don't want to spend the money on a custom enclosure, because as you said, it is expensive and everything adds up
My second car and my first brand new car was a 95 civic DX hatch. I drove the wheels off that thing until about 200k miles in 7 years. I did have to upgrade the wheels to some wider 14 aluminum because the stock 13s rolled so bad in turns. I know you guys had to replace the engine to get some speed, but lets just appreciate how bulletproof these civics were. I know the CX was like 70 hp, but my DX was DOHC and 102 hp. Not screaming but it could go a bit. This one was 30 years old with 400k miles and the thing was still doing ok.
for maybe some people out there that dont know too much and are starting to get into it. if you have a sub and poke a hole in the side or gash it. if its not too bad you can use some good silicone to seal it up, make sure you dont get too much in the inside, like kind of put a base coating over it. let it cure for like 30 minutes depending on the silicone you're using and then put some more on evenly and make sure to get a decent square evenly over the gash or hole and boom. it wont last forever, but it will do good for a long time. had a audiobahn 1200w with an alpine type r and gashed the side just a bit when removing it to put in a new box and had to do this trick and surprisingly it held up for over a year before it finally started coming apart. could possibly add one or more layers after a full cure to make it last even longer but too much will compromise the entire flex of the sub itself obviously.
Boy coffee lovers like me would not expect an aeropress ad here. with discount! I actually consider getting one as my on-the-go thing for a while. Nice ad choice thanks donut
50k into a sexy civic and you put a Walmart system in it. 😢😢 That sweet Civic deserves a JL Audio system. The coaxials or components if you favor would have matched the seats and you would have audio performance that matches that K series. 😂😂 I love that little hot hatch and the sound that engine puts out is just beautiful music for the soul!!!!
I love having a nice sound system. I have a set of Focal 2 way speakers, alpibe head unit, and alpine amp. When the car starts making werid noises, just crank up the volume and drive in cheerful ignorance for the time being.
just set up 2 12s in my camry. Some guy sold em to us for 100 bucks, box amp and BOTH subs included. Wired it up and it works just great, although there is some rattling at higher frequencies of bass.
After seeing the car break down last episode, i was thinking to myself, "Can't believe they overlooked the stereo." Should be ready to run 7's after tying up this loose end 👌
With an Aeropress advertisement, Donut guys just ticked 2 out of 3 of my all-time faivorites: Cars and Coffee. Add cats to that, and you'll get my whole darn personality 😎
As someone who owns the same exact set of Kicker 6.5” door speakers I will say they are AMAZING. I didnt use an amp on them but they still had plenty of crisp volume up top! Good choice for the money!
My friend did that in my 10 inch sub with a power drill and it exactly what my man was talking about right through the foam but I heard that you could put black nail polish on the foam on the hole if it’s not too big and it would just seal up so that’s what I did put black nail polish on it and it hasn’t broken in about 3-4 years been using it ever since 8:40
Good job on explaining to all your kid viewers about series/parallel and what that does to a sub. Ohms determines the amount of RMS (Max wattage means nothing) power an amplifier can produce.
I feel it. My Impala is broken, has bent front end parts, nasty coolant leak, short somewhere that kills the battery instantly when you shut the car off, and tends to overheat quickly when it runs. But my main focuses are sound system and bodywork 😂
LMAO This is how you know Zach's actually a car guy, installing a sound system while the car is broken. I love it hhahahahaa
Next the body pls.
Not sure if that’s a car guy. I just get my car running in general, cause real car guys don’t have extra money for sound systems, yet, this should already be a reliable Honda build… Lolol!
@@SkarryTerryNah you can do things like this as a car guy if its your hobby and you have disposable income. Sometimes, car parts take forever to arrive.
get out of here 🤣🤣🤣🤣
XD
Ive installed numerous subwoofers over the last twenty years of car ownership. Ive never had the foresight to put the box on my head. Jimmy is a gd genius. Protect that man at all costs.
WHAT!!! You've been installing them without testing them yourself first!?!?!?
Then how do you know they sound alright?!???!
@@YOEL_44 Exactly!!! Gotta test em everytime
Clearly a sound system helps the car run. Donut got their priorities straight.
adds 110 hp
I would like to see them paint it or install lighter body parts. Not install a sound system😂 it is what it is though 🤷♂️
I mean their going off of most people’s mods
Smiles per mile baby
They did say a part of the build was to make it comfortable also.
Did you not pay attn to the last ep when they installed an AC compressor? If it was a pure track car it wouldnt need an AC.
Seeing Nolan properly using a rasp is the most proud dad moment of this channel.
I've worked on car stereos in the past, and here are some things they didn't talk about: 1) even if speakers are the same size, replacement speaker magnets are probably larger, 2) on older cars, consider using dynamat to cut down on rattles and keep things tight, 3) speaker cable (gauge) is important, but you don't usually need to get expensive cable like Monster, 4) if you're really driving bass, you may need something like Thundercaps to hit the highs, 5) consider running component speakers than all full range - separate woofers & tweeters, but you'll need to cross them over, and 6) depending on the power of your system, don't run it off the battery too long unless you have a separate battery for the stereo.
Also forgot to mention the ground wire 😂 and finding/ making proper connection in car
Brings me back to the good old days when modifying your car meant installing an earth-shattering sound system.
Man I miss those days but modern cars don’t have DIN units anymore and the high end ones already sound amazing. But a used older car, you can definitely re live those days. My 87 Mercedes 560 I’m running a period correct alpine hu and graphic eq, 2 alpine v12 amplifiers, a Sony amp, component speakers with passive crossovers, 2 Zeus subs, and that Sony amp runs headrest coax speakers from Clearwater! It’s redonkulous
Fond memories of two diamond D6s in a custom box in the boot in my mk5 golf. At 75% volume the rig would move your scalp
@@12pagani My 13' GS350 doesnt have a DIN but you can bet your arse i still slapped my 2 JL 12w3v3's with a 1000w rms Alpine amp in that puppy and upgraded the speakers to Mark Levinson ones. You just need an adapter to connect to the factory head unit and a line converter and your good to go. I will say the equalizers in those double/single DIN aftermarket head units are way better than anything OEM.
Yeah. Wow. I remember in like '11 me and my friends had a little competition for the loudest sound system, and you never heard Kurt Cobain so loud in your life.😅
Yes.
How you spend 50k+ on a vehicle known for reliability and still don't make it work is a skill few possess.
Damn, son.
One minute on the internet, and we already roasting them lmao
True though😂
So far away from 50k lol, try 10k
@@kccautomotive6158you didn’t see the videos 😂 way over 10k
@@kccautomotive6158they literally have videos explaining how it is in fact over 50k
Love seeing more of this little nugget. I don't even care if it rips faster than a modern civic it's siiiiick
I was never a civic guy but this series makes me kinda want one.....
@@zaboo4088Honestly any car they review or do work on, they always make it seem like an absolute blast and make me want one of whatever it is 😂
Can we do a series about the audio side of things? Beyond wiring, there’s crossovers, sound deadening, I’m really interested in seeing a custom fiberglass speaker door pod creation. That’s great sensory footage too!
Follow Car Audio Fabrication and 5 Star Car Audio.
as an at home audio engineer who's been building his own speakers for quite some time now, you can get away with a very nice sound system for way under 850 if you know what you are doing.
You can get as complex or simple as you want to, from using stock speaker wire and just splicing in the new speakers for an ok result to rerouting the speaker wire and doing a full bang up job to produce better results (i went for this).
Currently my daily driver runs 4 speakers, 2 4 way 6x9"s in the back running a peak of 450w a piece with an a 90 w rms. In the driver and passenger side doors i have two 6.5" 3 way speakers running 400w peak combined, 200 w alone, 400w combined which they are. My head unit came with a built in amp but i dont use it, it maxes out at 50 peak wattage which would be way too under powered, i just got it because its a pioneer and i have had a good experience with their audio processing equipment (this is what i spent the most cash on, about 200 bucks) its analog because i hate touch screens in the car. I have a used amp i picked up off craigslist for like 40 or 50 bucks, and its right in the goldilocks zone for my setup up (finding used audio equipment is easy) so i went with it. The speakers are also pioneer, about a little over 100 for the set of 4 (they are A+ series, the trick is not buying the ones registered for the us, buy the international market ones, same quality, same result, 50 to 70 dollars cheaper depending on the model). Hardest part of it all was routing the new wire, but if you use a little big of carful thought you can have an easier time than i did. before you remove your old wires, tie a string to them, and tie the other end to your new speaker wire. as you pull the wire out it will feed the new wire in and through, and you wont have to worry about the logistics of it at all (i didnt do this and spent like 3 hours trying to get my wires where i wanted them to be routed).
I dont have a sub because its really not necessary. with the 4 speakers i already have the car shakes enough to loosen the mucus you have stuck in your throat/ lungs lmao. If my car shook any harder i would be concerned about bolts and other cosmetic fasteners getting loosened.
Quality of head unit is above all else. its literally like 50 to 60% of the end result. no high quality audio processing, no good sound. period.
Next is the quality of the speakers, higher price = higher rms and peak, meaning you can have higher peak volumes, as well as higher sustained volumes, without loosing out on clarity.
Next in line is the amp. you dont need the best or most high quality amp. 99.99% of people will never even see a sound system that justifies the expensive amps they are looking at buying lol. just get a decent one, used even better. nobody ever sees it, after you set it up you shouldnt be touching it again unless you really know what you are doing, and so long as it can support the constant as well as peak draws, then there should not be any problem whatsoever.
oh, and one final word of advice. skip the component speakers. go with coaxials. Components are nice, and very high quality, but its a waste to put them in a vehicle. 1, the road noise is going to take away from the experience you get from component speakers. 2, they are expensive as all hell. 3, they are more difficult to set up, and require you to actually have some understanding of what is going on. 4, cars are no where near well sound isolated aside from high end luxury vehicles, throwing a pair of components in your door is a great way to hear every last loose piece of plastic trim vibrate like a mfer. 5, you are too distracted in the car to take notice. so long as the music sounds good and clear, thats good enough, you aren't going to be having a profound listening experience while weaving through rush hour traffic on your lunch break lmao.
All that being said, i am a huge fan of them. Component speakers belong in a room with purposeful acoustic panels, your favorite drink in your hand, sitting in a nice recliner. I have my own monitoring boxes. one set made with alpine mid subs and tweeters, and one set made with pioneer products. LET ME TELL YOU SOMETHING. sound is a physical experience with these things man. a living breathing entity. anyone who is an enthusiast about music i highly recommend making, or picking up a pair for at home listening. I dont say this often, but the things changed my way of life.
also i forgot to mention, never combine high output amps or head units with your stock speakers and speaker wire. this can and usually will result in bad audio, blown speakers, and in the case of the speaker wire being to thin and the amp or head unit trying to push too much power through it: melted wires, and most likely some fire.
IF you are on a budget, just wait, save up, and buy the whole set up at once instead of doing something really dumb.
$850 isnt a crap ton for a really good audio system, and you could even spend more, but to get up there where the different becomes pretty hard to establish on a daily basis, right around $400 is the sweet spot. (thats only if you can install everything yourself without damaging the car)
GL out there bass heads. i salute you.
@@zukoHD legend. thank you
.
Even if it is just ply wood, gotta respect Nolan’s sub-woofer tray fabrication
It was mdf
@@Randm_Shitno, it was plywood
@@Randm_ShitYou can literally see the plies at 8:50
but it was THICC plywood. that make a real difference.
@@esc8engn lol
Love how committed you guys are to this civic. Really being loyal to the car community lore and their love for this vehicle
Yep. 50k+ into an old civic is a special kind of dedication. Excited to see it set records
@mikeissweet 50k and it still looks like absolutely dog shit and still slow. Idk where the money went seems like a huge waste
I think it is better to mount the amp to the car and secure the sub with ratchet straps. It makes things a lot easier if you need to remove the sub in order to carry something. And you can go to the track listening to music, remove the sub to make some laps, put it back and go home listening to music :)
Replace the word better with easier and I agree with you. It's not better.
@@eriklarson9137 I don't think it is easier if done correctly. Installing the amp to the car could be more difficult if you want better cable management. Installing seatbelt mounting brackets to attach the ratchet straps correctly is not as easy as just screwing things. And i also think it is safer. There is a reason fuel tanks are strapped to the car. How long will the screws stay in place when thrashing on a race track? Safer = Better
Have it like this for years on my car. I can remove the sub in seconds and the rachet strap also secures my tool box when I carry it around :)
5:03 The aero press coffee maker actually is very good. Originally bought it as a simple camping coffee maker but now I use it all the time
Love this! My only complaint will be the missed oportunity to use james pop up headlights for testing😂
Man, it's been AGES since I've installed a stereo system. I used to be such a bass head. lol Not only am I just older now, but so many new vehicles stock stereo systems sound balanced enough to keep me happy these days. Fun times. Miss those simplistic installs though like in this Civic. Now the head unit runs half the car. lol
This. I have a 2017 car and the stock head unit is crap, but it also part of the CAN network, and removing it makes the car basically not work. Gotta love these “functionalities”..
When I was young me and a friend had a little speaker shop in my garage. So many people had no idea what they were doing.
We had probably 30 cars in town we did and many more out of town. We would buy used parts and re use them.
If you had a system and wanted an upgrade, we would give a discount to trade speakers and head units.
It was super fun and taught me a lot about electrical systems in cars and making custom boxes taught me a lot about sound.
I have always been an "Audiofile" and would never take those few years back. Now I have nothing in my car and a gnarly system at home with 2 15" Solo-Baric's.
Makes my house feel like an earthquake.
it’s possibly broken issue is the electrical system is struggling to keep up with the amount of current draw you have on it. even with the lithium battery you should look into upgrading your grounds and positives. also look into high output alternators
I had the same thought on the last episode. Luckily now they did something about the energy consumption..... increase it😂😂
Should be fine with original alternator, just better ground and power cable from it, I run way bigger subwoofers and speakers on stock alternator and never had a problem with power, done it in a lot of different cars with different size engines, and most stock alternators give out around 80A so the stock one is usually fine as long as you have good ground and good + cable, and a good battery or batteries😅
yes but they also have an electric power steering pump which draws a ton of power
@@dr.beardie9894 oh yea that's true, forgot about that, but should be ok with the stock alternator😅 tho they maybe should put in an extra battery or a bigger one atleast and upgrade power cable from alternator ant the grounds, then it should be ok for that small audio system, would be fine with the battery they have if it wasen't for the power steering pump😂
@@hugomyllykangas8442 All depends on the ohms vs wattage being run. This is why uneducated audio people should not hook up systems. 1000 watts rms @ 1ohm = 100amps of current draw (Based on electrical equations). This also fluctuates based on the amps rated voltage and efficiency. For example my amp runs 3000 rms at 1&2ohms at 14.4v. But it uses 304amps at 1 ohm and 334amps at 2ohm. Which means it is much more efficient at 1 ohm. But 1ohm is more clean and pure power (less resistance) so the 3000rms hits much harder on 1ohm than 2ohms. Also, never install a system without the BIG 3. BIG 3 = New lower gauge power wire from Alternator to Battery, Battery Negative to Ground, and Engine Ground. DO NOT WASTE MONEY ON A CAPACITOR. You need hundreds of Farads to make a difference. They are useless. I could add more to this. Just ask.
4:20 Dude our boy just violated that cars stereo dude, oh my god no hesitation no nothing. Straight menace💀
I would bet dollars to Donuts they just turned the gains and crossovers to some random setting without giving it a second thought. Should have used a DD-1 distortion detector and set it up properly. It would sound much better :)
Preach brother lol.
Preach it fr🙏
Agreed bro I did this professionally for a while and alot of the stuff they did annoyed me for one cheap sound systems never work two they should have spent more on the box
Exactly what I was thinking, equaliser defo isn’t set up
Also that is not proper ofc cable
I cannot wait for the paint job/wrap/body mods you guys decide to do on this thing. Salute
it should stay in tahiti green
Fresh coat of Tahiti Green after a carbon fiber roof, adjustable front splitter and a rear diffuser. Maybe a big circle on the doors and hood for a racing number.
I kinda hope they trim out the breathing hole on the hood a little bit. Really wouldn't take much to get a lot more air in there.
@@googolplex2789 And three STI wings on the roof.
they’re not doing any body mods
Man this takes me back. My first car. 1993 Honda Del Sol aka the Del Slow! Bought it used of course. Came with an aftermarket Kenwood headunit and (at the time) no clue what speakers. IT SOUNDED LIKE ASS. The speakers rattled, sounded fuzzy, and listening to the radio was aids. Even putting a disk into the unit it still sounded god fucking awful. My first brilliant upgrade was going to walmart and buying a cheap $60 pioneer headunit plus wiring harness. This is around 2008/2009 price/performance wise. Went home, got some tools, installed the headunit. I even soldered the wires between the headunit pigtail and the wiring harness. Perfection. Most of my sound issues were fixed, but the speakers were still rattling. They were clearly "bad" to begin with. But the fuzzy radio, fixed. Clean signal from radio. And as far as CD's went, I could now play MP3's which was huge because I could have more songs per disk.... anyway, I knew my next step was to get speakers. I knew what I wanted, I just had to get them. AT THE TIME, Newegg had just started selling car stuff for some god awful reason and the prices were cheap as hell. I picked up a full set of 6.5 kicker speakers for mad cheap. I think I paid $120 for both ($60 each). Which was a killer deal. They got delivered and I went on an install spree. Fantastic, sound was now off the hook AND I could crank that bitch to MAX VOLUME with no distortion. AT THE TIME I had no idea about power matching or even tuning a system. All I knew was, I could max out volume and it sounded fucking fantastic. My buddy used to be like "holy shit your system is LOUD, I can hear you coming down the road blocks away" which was funny as shit to me. I like it loud.
Next stage? subwoofer!!!! I already had a kicker 12" subwoofer from when I was in highschool. I worked for pepboys while in highschool full time (I was 18 senior year, not held back just early birthday, feb) and was in the schools work program. Essentially you went to school half a day, get out early, then had to work so many hours in a week (I think 15?) but since I was an adult I worked full time. The class HATED me because "there is no way he's working full time when I barely work 15 hours" but they were just lazy shits. I had a strong work ethic so fuck them. My teacher even came to my job MULTIPLE TIMES to check up on me to make sure I wasn't lying about working full time. But even my manager confirmed I was actually working and not just pretending. And that I was indeed being paid for full time work. They showed THEIR records to my teacher showing the hours I put in. Long story shorter, I set a record for most hours worked that my teacher gave me an award for at the end of the year, that "I am pretty sure no other student will ever beat." So yeah I am a legend. HAHA. Anyway, I had the subwoofer which was installed into a box my father brought home from work from some customer who wanted to trash the gear. Two subs, one JVC (that classic teal color, was missing the dust cap) and one Sony Xplode (you remember, those red plastic ones with the funky cone shape). And they were installed in a dual sealed box. Even had an amp. I DIDN'T know the amp was bad so when I was using it, I was upset it couldn't go higher volume but later in life realized (when I gained more knowledge) that the amp was bad. Anyway, I used to run my kicker in that setup after the JVC woofer blew (again, was already bad, just got worse with use). Eventually I went to bestbuy with my dad and we got one of those "origami make-it-yourself" boxes. a 12" sealed box. You know, its T shaped and you simply glue the edges, and then use zip ties to hold it together. I thought that was dumb so my dad had wood screws in the garage and I made sure it was screwed tight. Anyway, now I just needed an amp. I ended up going to walmart again and buying that Crunch amp for like $60 bucks. Plus wiring kit for another $40. Hooked it all up, wired in, and man, not a bad difference in sound. HOWEVER, the del sol has that back window that rolls down that blocks trunk access from inside the cab. And there was only really 2 holes on each side for air to pass through. I remember seeing the JL $1000 twin 8" box made specifically for the del sol. It would mount behind you where the storage trays were and had TWO tubes you would stick through those holes on each side to "port" into the trunk. so subs inside cab and then port tubes into the trunk. Back then I didn't understand why until I had my 12" in the trunk. While I had bass, it was "never enough".... eventually I moved the subwoofer into the passenger seat and BAM. HUGE bass output. That was the golden moment. I removed the passenger seat (no bitches rule and was single so lmao) and just had my subwoofer next to me at all times. Even when street racing. The old days LMAO.
The car after I had was my 2006 honda s2000.... putting the sub in the trunk, fuck me, basically no bass. horrific. drifted a lot, crashed a lot. eventually traded it in. but I had tried all kinds of gear. I tried a JVC headunit (sounded like ass) I tried JBL Speakers (didn't like the sound profile and still didn't know about using the EQ to change that sound profile) and eventually settled on a pioneer DEH-80PRS along side some POLK MM speakers. That was the "golden" combo to my ears. I just needed a subwoofer. After that car I got a 2005 STI and in that I had my polk audio and headunit installed, tried a few different subs. at one point bought a twin cerwin vega box, ported, and I HATED how it sounded. pure ass. at the time I wasn't sure why but ended up realizing that I don't like ported systems. too much noise. I prefer sound quality which means going sealed every time.... anyway, after that built my own transmission line box and put in a 12" pioneer sub, low profile, which blew. "you can't use low profile in a t-line" learned that lesson. got a 12" full size pioneer and it still didn't sound right. the bass was there, but only really noticeable when OUTSIDE the car. inside you felt like you wanted more. had to do with the t-line and how the audio wave amplifies, while in the car you are in the early path so its not much bass but outside the car it was boomy as fuck. so trashed that system. now I don't have any system, sold the sti and only have my 2015 mirage left, but i can't drive it because I was injured (spinal cord) and can't walk anymore. hell can't feel my lower body (t9 complete). i want to heal so bad, but most likely wont happen and modern medicine isn't really modern, doctors are stupid as fuck. so no cure for me.... stuck as a cripple.... but if I did heal, I would end up going back to a kicker setup. I would get a sony headunit, kicker speakers, that new 5 channel sony amp (100w to all 4 speakers at 4ohms and like 500w to subwoofer) and then a kicker sub in a single 12" sealed box. that would be the dream build for the mirage. also if I healed, I would want to find another del sol to build again. since its my favorite car of all time.
You plan on publishing this novel of a comment?
You guys should do a software tuning vs hardware upgrades test. So many people I know will upgrade their hardware without even playing with Equalizers, high quality audio files, and even HD audio drivers. This is all possible with a phone and can easily make a bad sound system good, or make an amazing sound system sound even better. Cheapest way to get better audio quality is software. Apps like wavelet and poweramp are MAGIC
Facts, just a DSP and some equalizer work can make a base model car sound like the the upgraded sound system that people option on for a couple thousand more. Alot of people spend so much money on hardware but it still doesn't sound great because it's simply not tuned
Facts, if your speakers suck, eq can make it suck less, but it will not make it good
That isn't true at all on an old car like this which came with $10 speakers
That civic is the dream civic it's beautiful. Great job guys.
That Civic has gone from zero to hero with your touch.
Aeropress for the win personally. I have been using one since the 1990s. Main reasons to use: makes an excellent coffee, easy to clean, requires no cord, takes very little space in the kitchen. I have one at home, one at the office, one at a cottage. Also price.
Have you tried a moka pot? If you like strong - very strong- coffee the moka pot is undoubtedly better. For about 11 years I was using a French press exclusively then I switched to aero press .. but it would only churn out a very small amount of WEAK coffee. Not nearly strong enough for my liking. Then I bought a bialetti moka pot and never turning back to the weak aero press!
Been using one for many years not as long as you but I haven’t looked back, I really enjoy it.
If you're only running two speakers, I'd bridge the 4 channel part of the amp. You'll roughly gain 3 dB which will help the mids sound even better.
If you're ever interested in if a custom subwoofer enclosure makes a difference over a pre fab I'd be up for shipping you out a custom built enclosure. I have over 14 years experience designing and building. I can email numerous pictures of my work for examples.
Def take this man up on his offer! a custom ported enclosure will really make that sub shine even being a budget model! The only other thing i would have added is sound dampening especially with the doors already stripped down!
Bridging. Not too sure if kids these days know that slick trick. More for the same. Love this comment.
Zach is my favorite dude on donut. So informative and so funny. Love this stuff
God this took me back to high school putting a $1500 system into my 93 Saturn sc2 I bought for $500. Also what taught me stick and how to work on cars to fix….due to my ignorance. Also, the lovely alternator issues that weren’t thought of at the time 😂 Old cars were so fun and “easy” to put systems in. Thank you for the nostalgia blast!
Yall should go over "stuffing" a sealed box vs non stuffed sealed boxes, and capacitors, bridging amps, etc. Watching this episode brought up alot of mid 2000's Era system instal myths too me.
Kinda miss building sound systems in vehicles and spending thousands while doing it. Luckily I've worked some cool projects even some SEMA stuff back in my 20's for the MTX Juggernaut van. Also did lot's of SPL & DB Drag competitions..
Not going to lie, as a subwoofer box designer and being big in the audio world, this was kind of upsetting. Not that everything you purchased was really "bad" but definitely overpriced and that budget could have been used much better. I have designed and built systems for cheaper that would easily outperform this. Still, cool video though!
Also thank you for mentioning to RMS ratings, its crazy how many people fall for the hype of "MAX" ratings they won't ever see but chase anyway and end up damaging their equipment. OFC wire was also great to mention. So there is definitely some good info in this video. If you ever want to upgrade that prefab box for one that is louder and sound even better, hit me up. 😉
The prefab box and no DSP… why was this $850
@LingLing1337 it's so easy to walk into a best buy and drop a ton of money on audio gear that is subpar. It's all marketing hype and it's sad how mainstream the overpriced crap is.
I have more or less 1k in my sound system but. 2 amps(sony 1000w mono block for sub. Autotek 1600 4ch) 4 6.5 mids 2 tweeters a 7 band preamp wiring. And jvc head unit.
Nice to see Jimmy and Jer make themselves useful 🙂.
...
Watching these guys work on cars is like watching the Verge do their PC build.
Father forgive them, for they know not what they do.
I went budget in my van. I used all skar audio, kenwood deck. 5 channel system. Can't beat bang for the buck. Sounds good hits good.
Wiring a speaker out of phase (positive/negative flipped) wouldn’t create a no sound condition coming from the sub. Not sure if that was just a little extra drama or theatrics 😂
Great content my only recommendation would be to also touch on the resistance of the speakers as that directly plays into the RMS power / speaker pairing. Car speakers are pretty standard at 4 ohms, but subs can be a little trickier depending on if the sub is single or dual voice coil, and the minimum impedance the amp can handle.
Also that OFC is quack shit and any insulated speaker wire is fine
Lol was saying the same thing.
Not sure why you believe that. Wiring a dual voice coil subwoofer out of phase will provide no sound. The signal going to each coil will be exactly 180 degrees from each other, so the two voice coils will be fighting each other with the exact same frequency.
@@dslynx fair point, no arguments there. Where I went wrong was assuming the sub that they used was single voice coil, as they did not share any video or information of wiring the two coils together. In a single coil setup would be impossible to wire two coils out of phase, but in this scenario I agree with your analysis.
@@dslynx Did not consider that!
FYI for some of these cheaper sub boxes it helps to add some MDF bracing and polyfill inside. It will keep the sub from resonating and giving you that "cheap" bass sound.
I love how speaker packaging always looks like it's a old unit from the 90s
Jerry's entry was just EPIC
😂😂😂
I installed a hide away sub in my 2017 Honda civic under the front passenger seat and good lord it’s awesome it literally turned it into a massage seat all my friends fight over the front seat lol
Civic is about to be sounding amazing inside just like the outside
lmao not with that $hitty a$$ unported box 🚮🚮🚮
You really said that about a $850 audio system??? I can tell you nothing about audio. Also, old JDM cars rattle like nails in a tin can. They are not sound insulated at all. Worst cars to put a loud subwoofer in.
you can have a cheaper sound system and it still sound amazing. Not everyone wants to blow 10k on subs and wiring..@@carlospacheco8640
@@carlospacheco8640 "I can tell you nothing about audio." Nice Freudian slip bro. I agree with you.
@@carlospacheco8640 I have 2 10 inch ported subs, they sound great and it only costed me $1000 for the whole setup. They clearly didn't tune the head unit properly so it's not going to sound as good as it could be. Also, all cars rattle if you get a loud enough system, but rattling is an easy fix. It's not just old JDM cars lol.
If you're running a subwoofer amp only... Add a simple toggle switch to the blue wire. Sometimes you want to listen to the radio without bumping your ears off.
That's what a bass knob is for
MDF is not that expensive , but you will have to buy a sheet . A box requires a lot less money that a sheet , If you have more than 1 projects to build or you like to build staff in general , then is ok to buy a sheet . But keep in mind that it requires some tools to cut a sheet . Zak is giving good advice :D
That sheet of MDF, carpet, glue, terminals, etc.. Why buy it when you can build it for twice the cost!?!?!
For fitment.
Right? MDF is the cheap stuff 😂
@@dslynxso you can tune that thang for yourself
It is expensive. Actually in Australia all wood even the most basic pine is very expensive and thus woodworking is not a cheap or easy to get into hobby.
For stereos I always use a standard computer building approach, test your system before final wiring and sealing it up.
Man I did a very similar set up in high school for about $350 box and all but that’s was back in 2004. Back to bacis love it
Looks great! You don't need a fancy touchscreen for day to day operation. I think you picked a pretty good setup.
For the record, speakers will play in reverse polarities. They must have had a bad connection.
or just adding a little spice for drama lol. A good story has highs and lows.
Yeah I grabbed on that too. Might’ve been a DVC sub too, which would explain it
@@CrossWindsPat I hope it wasn't for 'drama'. They could have done something that wouldn't be deceitful. Like someone forgot RCA or something.
@criven3128 I doubt that's a dvc. Maybe. They should have explained a but better. Sounded like they were trying to say the wires were reversed.
@@michaelcarranza8640 A DVC sub? Why in gods name would a sub ever be DVC? Im intrigued.
Great video! Did you guys thinking about setting up a sort of quick disconnect subwoofer? A simple way to unplug and unbolt the sub when you take it to the track? Reduces the weight and risk of things flying around
Hard to do when the amps bolted to it. It’s why an amp rack is always a good idea.
It’s just 3 wires (+, - and remote) plus the RCA’s. Shouldn’t take more than a minute or two to disconnect. But I doubt that the small amount of weight it add really affects the performance.
With all the nice mods done to the car, I wish they would have went with higher quality products. They installed like a $500 system with a $1000 budget. Could have done a full alpine system with apple car play and component speakers. The typical set up when you’re running a dedicated amp is to run components in the front and coxials in the rear.
If you’re gonna install a kicker, do the solobaric.
No explanation around svc vs dvc and no explanation around OHMS!!! 😢
I was super excited for this episode.
Your amp is way overkill bud lol!! And to the folks that can't put a new head unit in no worries! A line out converter will allow you to get low output from your speaker wires to RCA with a remote. Oh and the euro press is at your local Walmart
my favorite car channel. this is it DONUT
Top tip, route all the cables down the passenger side 👍 That way, you wont have to worry about cables falling on to the pedals 😁😉
And you could've just swapped the cables over on the amp, rather than taking the sub out the enclosure again 😉🍻
It was a dual voice coil sub and only one voice coil side had the wiring wrong. So yeah, they to get in there.
It's not even wired wrong. I mean, it should works anyway, even if the cables are connected in the opposite way, but in the case of a dual coil sub, it depends on witch impedance you want from it and also if you want it on phase or counterphase...
Your rca cables should be run down one side of the car and your power and remote wire should go down the other. This will help to reduce feedback.
More Jimmy please lol, that kid is a vibe for sure
The original Miata head unit video gave me confidence to change my entire audio system, hope this video makes someone do it too. Cheers Zach/Nolan
I bought a 2014 Mitsubishi Outlander GT with the upgraded Roford Fosgate stereo (includes subwoofer) and I have never enjoyed road trips (even trips to the grocery store) so much in my life. Music makes all the difference.
My favourite part of that car is the Recaro seats. In that colour they look EPIC.
I hope y'all didn't run your RCA wires on the same side as your power wire. (will create noise)
Did you "gain match" you amp to your headunit? ( To prevent clipping )
Also in the engine bay you want some kind of wire loom to help protect your + cable. Last thing you need is a dead short.
They didn't. That's why he commented about making sure they were really tied up well above the pedals. That's at around the 6:00 mark somewhere.
They mounted the amp to the sub box. And you want them to know how to use an oscilloscope to match the gains (or have equivalent tools to perform that task)?!?!?
Having reversed speaker cables would only cause to the speaker to play out of phase This means that when one speaker cone is moving forwards (compression) the other(s) will be moving backwards (rarefaction). But it would still play so I’m wondering if something else could be wrong
I came scanning the comments to find this. The speaker polarity swap was obviously NOT the problem, so why did they decide to lie to us? Or did they just accidently "fix" it while their hands were fumbling around with the subwoofer wiring... in which case it ain't really fixed.
@@SansNeural It's a DVC subwoofer, wiring it out of phase will, in fact, cause it to not produce sound. Period.
@@dslynx Oh, thanks. I had to go look up that model number. The two terminal sets are on opposite sides of the basket and Donut only showed one set of terminals, and swapped two wires with no explanation. It didn't occur to me to think DVC.
I definitely prefer the look of an OEM head unit, but I appreciate that they replaced it with a unit that definitely looks period correct for the car
I'll always love donuts content. You make a video and I know it isn't a 5 part series of an exhaust install where one video is unboxing another is looking at it and a third of installing the clamps with 15 mins of filler video. You guys don't click bait. You make dope content.
nice to see people still do this :) Brings back good memories.
Guys what's the name of the song theyre playing at the of the video on the speakers
At least now they can listen to music while on the side of the road 🤷♂️
SUCK SQUEEZE BANG BLOW!
É muito massa ver a Aeropress patrocinar eles
I don't usally comment about sponsors but I have to vouch for the Aeropress. I have used it every morning for over two years now and nothing makes a better cup of coffee in the morning. Love mine and will be upgrading to the clear one soon.
i was gonna get a older civic as my first car but i can’t find any that’s cheap and actually runs without any problems and this car yall built is truly amazing i want to build a civic sometime in life and this is an amazing car
Yes definitely not expensive. My head unit was half this budget. Once I got to speakers I was at a grand with no sub.
Another thing you would like to add is a capacitor to stop the engine from bogging down when the bass hits and the interior lights dim, also add a cut off for you sub and door speakers so the sub isnt trying to produce frequency's out of its range and so the door speakers aren't trying to produce bass, trust me.makes the whole system sound way better
@Donut, i love you guys but pleasestop spreading myths . Coming from a professional audio engineer, You don’t need oxygen free copper for audio. Put the money into speakers and amps. Just make sure the cables are thick enough. There will be no audible or measurable difference. Running Bluetooth audio in your car and expecting OFC cables to be a factor in the audio quality is just dumb.
JOB!!! Turn that box 180 degrees and have the sub facing the corner. Put a little sound deadener in there
As a basshead myself, you did the right thing by going with ofc wire. The part you got partially wrong is the custom vs pre fab boxes. Pretty fabs are generally not tuned correctly and custom boxes are built way better and tuned for a specific sub. If you just have a little sub under 600rms, a pre fab is fine, especially if you don't want to spend the money on a custom enclosure, because as you said, it is expensive and everything adds up
The old head unit:🤰
Your definitely not car stereo people 😂 you could have gotten better for your money for sure.
Nice
Holy shit was i first comment?
no@@jonnart704
oh wait u were
My second car and my first brand new car was a 95 civic DX hatch. I drove the wheels off that thing until about 200k miles in 7 years. I did have to upgrade the wheels to some wider 14 aluminum because the stock 13s rolled so bad in turns. I know you guys had to replace the engine to get some speed, but lets just appreciate how bulletproof these civics were. I know the CX was like 70 hp, but my DX was DOHC and 102 hp. Not screaming but it could go a bit. This one was 30 years old with 400k miles and the thing was still doing ok.
for maybe some people out there that dont know too much and are starting to get into it. if you have a sub and poke a hole in the side or gash it. if its not too bad you can use some good silicone to seal it up, make sure you dont get too much in the inside, like kind of put a base coating over it. let it cure for like 30 minutes depending on the silicone you're using and then put some more on evenly and make sure to get a decent square evenly over the gash or hole and boom. it wont last forever, but it will do good for a long time. had a audiobahn 1200w with an alpine type r and gashed the side just a bit when removing it to put in a new box and had to do this trick and surprisingly it held up for over a year before it finally started coming apart. could possibly add one or more layers after a full cure to make it last even longer but too much will compromise the entire flex of the sub itself obviously.
Great work, dumb choice of song to test out 😑
Wdym it's an easy way to remember how a 4-stroke engine works 🙄
Whats the song called
Jimmy is such a lovable sidekick - we all need a Jimmy in our lives.
Boy coffee lovers like me would not expect an aeropress ad here. with discount! I actually consider getting one as my on-the-go thing for a while. Nice ad choice thanks donut
Thats a sick E30 you guys have in the shop bros!
"The best sound system you can buy for under $1000"
[Buys Kicker]
Aeropress makes a damn good cup of coffee! Good sponsor.
Their press takes the cheap coffee I buy on sale and makes it good.
50k into a sexy civic and you put a Walmart system in it. 😢😢 That sweet Civic deserves a JL Audio system. The coaxials or components if you favor would have matched the seats and you would have audio performance that matches that K series. 😂😂 I love that little hot hatch and the sound that engine puts out is just beautiful music for the soul!!!!
I love having a nice sound system. I have a set of Focal 2 way speakers, alpibe head unit, and alpine amp. When the car starts making werid noises, just crank up the volume and drive in cheerful ignorance for the time being.
just set up 2 12s in my camry. Some guy sold em to us for 100 bucks, box amp and BOTH subs included. Wired it up and it works just great, although there is some rattling at higher frequencies of bass.
After seeing the car break down last episode, i was thinking to myself, "Can't believe they overlooked the stereo."
Should be ready to run 7's after tying up this loose end 👌
In my mind, I heard, "my name is Zak and this is Money-pit!"
As a car audio shop installer, I was hurt when they didn't go over gain tuning lol they just plugged it in and ran with it 😂
With an Aeropress advertisement, Donut guys just ticked 2 out of 3 of my all-time faivorites:
Cars and Coffee.
Add cats to that, and you'll get my whole darn personality 😎
As someone who owns the same exact set of Kicker 6.5” door speakers I will say they are AMAZING. I didnt use an amp on them but they still had plenty of crisp volume up top! Good choice for the money!
Mannn you and donut making me want kicker now instead of my rockford fosgate😂😂
You can use a rox strap over the box as a added safety so that it doesn't go flying!
Should have tried that snake call at the top of rattlesnake pass!
Welcome back! Us landscape lovers missed you!
Jeremiah making the whole video with his improv performance 🤌
Save that factory cassette head unit !! It will be a collectors item very soon...
My friend did that in my 10 inch sub with a power drill and it exactly what my man was talking about right through the foam but I heard that you could put black nail polish on the foam on the hole if it’s not too big and it would just seal up so that’s what I did put black nail polish on it and it hasn’t broken in about 3-4 years been using it ever since 8:40
Good job on explaining to all your kid viewers about series/parallel and what that does to a sub. Ohms determines the amount of RMS (Max wattage means nothing) power an amplifier can produce.
1:25 that was maybe the most epic thing I have ever seen
2:43 Jimmy be sounding like one of those Goat Horns from Minecraft 😂
the "come on I don't want to break it" was so relatable
By far my favorite amplifier. That pioneer 5 channel is just perfect
I feel it. My Impala is broken, has bent front end parts, nasty coolant leak, short somewhere that kills the battery instantly when you shut the car off, and tends to overheat quickly when it runs. But my main focuses are sound system and bodywork 😂