Get yourself a Magpul enhanced ejection port cover. Don’t have to worry about taking your upper apart, it just snaps into place and is easily removable.
A hair dryer or heat gun is a useful tool as well. BCM mills their uppers to be slightly small (to aid in accuracy they say). I'm in the middle of a Grendel build and I'm waiting for it to cool down in Colorado so the barrel will shrink slightly (because it's cold) and the upper will be slightly larger (because I'm going to heat it) so I'm hoping it slides in just as easily as yours. One method one used in the past to line up the gas block is to plug both the muzzle and the chamber and use a duster can. You'll hear it when it's lined up properly.
@@dw3901 if you noticed when I posted that it was November. It was already getting cold in Colorado. Plus I've been building it since July so I'm in no rush. Thanks for the support though.
Thanks for the video. I just picked up my stripped upper yesterday. As a first time builder I would like to mention something to others considering their first build. Unless you know someone who has all the required tools for a build and will lend or rent them to you, don't start your first build thinking it will be your only build. You will be buying some specialized tools.
The Midwest reaction rod will prevent the barrel from clocking in the index slot of the upper receiver, worth every penny. Clam shell holders will put stress on the barrel's index pin and won't prevent barrel clocking... Anti-sieze is not the best, it will harden and can cause problems, use AeroShell Grease 64 as recommended in the TDP specs..Put the grease on the upper barrel threads, in front of the barrel lip and around any shims.. I lap the upper receiver face and bed the barrel in the upper with green loctite.. I dimple the barrel for the set screw type gas block and use a little green loctite around the barrel journal to seal the gas block to the barrel journal.. I use Rocksett for the gas block set screws as even red loctite will fail with heat..Blue loctite is worthless on gas block set screws..Pinning can cause accuracy problems, especially with a .625 barrel journal.. The best adj gas block is the Riflespeed. It has made all other adj gas blocks obsolete..
I’m sure I’m not the first person to say this, but you should never use a torque wrench to loosen the barrel nut. That’s a job for a breaker bar. Overall great video!
I'm new to the AR building game and I'm enjoying your videos, thank you. But I have to say brother, as an old man who has made his living with tools for 50 years, you have to invest in a proper set of roll pin punches, both starter and regular as well as a set of brass punches. Oh, and a proper bench block. Again, thanks for the video, they are very good quality.
that torque wrench looks like a harbor freight special so this is a possibility since their quality is questionable. in general, however, untorqueing fastners with a torque wrench is not a problem. in fact, many sensitive mechanical components (ex. engine head studs and the like) have an untorqueing procedure to prevent warping parts that requires using a torque wrench.
I suggest using a breaker bar or regular socket to loosen the barrel nut. Torque wrenches are finely tuned tools, and using them to loosen nuts can lead to them becoming wrongly calibrated.
You should mention headspacing. I headspace all my builds regardless of whether they are ARs or bolt guns. It’s easy to do while the barrel is out but shouldn’t be overlooked.
What a great video. Im a first time watcher and builder. I started looking at complete uppers due to the uncertainty of installing, Im definitely looking forward to it now. Thanks Subscribed keep them coming
Yeah a lot of people don't realize how easy it really is to put an upper together good video by the way I like the colors of the barrel and the receiver curious to see the handguard and all of that once it's finished make that thing super duper light and a cool broken-up color scheme going sorry I'm telling you what to do it's your rifle but I like the color you got me wanting to put one together now good video 👍
@@1stShotTactical it's so insane how easily you can build your own firearm for so ridiculously cheap and it is really well-functioning looks better than 90% of the guns you will see complete at the store and cost a fraction of the price probably more reliable as well because you hand fitted it really if a lot of people weren't just lazy most gun stores would go out of business if they didn't need an FFL for receivers they would literally only make money on optics and ammo but I bet if you had all the pieces and weren't taking the time to explain in a video how to you can probably have one together in 10 to 20 min tops and it would run like a champ I thought my 450 Bushmaster was going to have cycling issues with the standard buffer weight and all the regular 556 parts except the barrel and magazine but the standard milspec buffer weight and spring cycles in like a champ just as well if not better than the complete that I ordered
Head spacing is built into the barrel extension and bolt. If head spacing is incorrect then the barrel extension and/or bolt are out of spec. You can't adjust head spacing on an AR without replacement parts.
I like how you torque on then remove then re-torque. MY extra step,and it does make a difference, same as you do but remove the nut and clean the threads THEN do final torque. There WILL be coating and grit in the threads.
Very informative video and well explained. I like the idea of tighten and loosen the barrel nut. This will season the threads and give a much better barrel seat. Great job. How does the completed rifle shoot.
Appreciate man! And glad I could help! I actually have some videos up on my channel unboxing every part I used for this build! I believe it was a 750 low profile gas black and a mid length gas tube🤔 I forget lol😅
I'm not bashing 1st shot because I don't know what checks you performed prior to the video BUT.... Safety is paramount when doing this. What I would say is that the steps to insure the barrel is properly headspaced and examined prior to assembly is very important to show in a build video. After all this is the most critical part of the build in terms of safety. Your audience is looking to you for knowledge as most lack the knowhow to do this safely. It is not a difficult job building an AR but it is important that you show the safety aspect as well. I would not forgive myself if I caused injury or worse to someone as i am sure you probably would not either.
Been buying firearms for years. Always whole guns. Since I have Hitler jr in Washington state passing an assault weapon ban. I bought enough parts to build 12 rifles. First time ever building my own. Thanks for this video.
Good day, thank you for the great content. I am a new builder and was wondering what brand of barrel you used in this video? What model number? Thanks in advance.
Just coming across this series, man they are great! I have an Aero builders kit that can now actually be built thanks to you! The no bullshit solid teaching is what I love!
yes guys build your upper I ran into a complete upper build come to find out its over torque barrel broke inside upper and started spinning inside now I build my own and torque just right💪
@@1stShotTactical Quite a few viseos on uppers, lowers, gas lengths, twist rates, & 80% lowers later... I like the 80% lower path just because of the middle finger aspect of it. Haha
I like the Handguard itself but that barrel nut star style to tighten it down is ridiculous. I sheered off some of the teeth off the barrel but only going to 45lbs. Now I can’t take the barrel but off and the gas tube slightly touches the barrel nut. They didn’t have to change the style of torquing it down it’s pretty dumb. Nice vid though
The barrel block notch being pre-drilled is only a good thing if you’re using a matched gas block. Gas blocks vary a lot between different manufacturers.
What he used is anti-seize, which allows something threaded together to more easily unthread in the future. It doesn’t become deactivated by heat. His brand of anti-seize just happened to be Locktite.
-- uh --- first, he used anti seize (Loctite brand) on the barrel nut. THEN he used thread locker (Loctite brand) for the gas block screws. This guy is a beginner and has received a lot of great advice (from the above comments) as a result of having posted this video. It is OK to cut him a little slack.
Great video. However, torque wrench gears are not designed to loosen bolts that are tightened. That lever is in case you need to switch directions to get the gears inside the head unstuck.
Use Aeroshell 33 on the barrel and receiver not anti seize. I'll also jump on the bandwagon about the torque wrench use. Read the instructions that come with your tools before you use them the wrong way. Enjoyed the video.
Those Wheeler clamshell vise mounts are actually pretty "risky" to use, as they transfer all the torque from the barrel nut into the _receiver_ which can cause your receiver to CRACK!😬 Instead you want to use a "reaction rod" tool, they're a long bar/rod that slides inside the receiver and has splines which mate inside the barrel against the bolt lugs, that means all the torque is applied to the barrel instead. You can typically find one for around $45-100 bucks.
If you have an ar-15 barrel that isn’t headspaced correctly, it needs to be sent back to the manufacturer. Bad headspace means the barrel extension is set wrong, which then means the gas port is drilled in the wrong place.
Depends. Figure out what way your headspacing is out. If the bolt won't close on a go guage, you can sand the boltface back a little bit. Not much, and is dependent on HOW much it is out of tolerance. If the no go guage fits, then there isn't much you can do other than sending the parts back to the manufacturer. If a field guage closes, you might have to form 1 the gun as a destructive device because it's close to a hand grenade at that point.
Note that many of Loctite's formulas require using Loctites primer if the metal is coated. Most metals are coated. Loctite needs access to the metal's elemental makeup in order to harden.
Well, this young man did a decent job of throwing a barrel on a upper receiver. That’s about all you can say, was it done right? Hardly. Was it worth making a video as a guide for others to follow? No. Too much was taken for garnet that it would be right solely on the premise that they were “ quality” parts. I myself have used from the same manufacturer and they are high quality parts and pieces, but I always check all my tolerances and fitments for my own piece of mind. Saying it was “high quality “ parts after it blows up in your face doesn’t mean much. Parts are parts, how the parts are assembled are key to building a safe and dependable rifle.
What exactly did he do wrong? What checks are you referring to that he should have shown in this video to meet your standards? You were vague. My guess is you are the usual “internet gun expert”. Just posting to make yourself feel special.
Did you use enough anti seize? But if you are really concerned about the heat there is high heat nickel anti seize. Also that stuff gets everywhere so its better to not touch it
As a mechanic I cringe at liberal use of anti seize, it will thin out with heat and act as liquid metal shavings. I never use it on spark plugs bc of that, plus it throws off torque settings.
That vise block and the vise itself are pretty sketchy. I use a reaction rod and a properly mounted vise to install the barrel and torque down the barrel nut
Where can I buy that barrel in black with same exact set up as your video has? gas block everything. Need an online source that will ship to California
Note to all whatever the torque spec when torquing if you use any type of lubricant reduce the applied torque to 70%. If you use full torque and lubricant you are over torquing
the wrench he was using is in ft/lbs. The only torque wrench at Harbor freight that does inch lbs is the 1/4" drive and he was using the 3/8" drive. I have both in my tool box.
If you don't remove the dust cover, you won't be able to get the tool for aligning the gas tube out. The spring loaded pin on the inside of the dust cover hangs up on he tool. I just went through this and after some thought, I aligned the small "C" clip so I could see the two ends of the clip. I used 2 small screwdrivers . One on each of the "ends" and tapped the clip off. It came off like a breeze. Just watch so the clip doesn't decide to take a cruise around the kitchen. I then pulled the rod out of the cover from the rear "stock end". That's it. I have my first ever AR-15 close to being finished. I think I went over my budget but that's okay. Wheeler needs to modify the mold for the plastic pat that holds the gas alignment rod, You can't get it out "IF" you have the dust cover on. The first two flanges toward the front of the tool can't get by the dust cover spring catch on the inside. Then you would have to take the dust cover off. God Bless America. We need Trump back or else we're screwed.
This aero upper doesn't have that "c" clip, I bought a strike industries cover and was planning on. Putting it but found out that I have to loosen the barrel nut to remove it from the front... A PAIN IN THE ASS!.... I have a complete upper already assembled. All this work to replace a dust cover....SMH.... I'm going to remove the hand rail and see if I can find a way around removing the barrel nut.
Don't drive a point "pick" into the end of a roll pin. The pin is hollow with a slit down the side, so the point will actually expand the roll pin so that it won't fit.
To all you would be gunsmiths,I would advise you to at least watch a few vids from reputable gun builders before you build your first firearm. It may save you some headaches throughout the process
The hardest part I’ve experienced when rebuilding an M4 when I did small arms repair in Afghanistan, was those damn spring pins for the gas tube and block. 😂
Yup that was a big mistake as I pointed out in the video😅😅😅 I thought it would fit better in the clamshell in the vise. Def keep your dust cover on tho lol
Get yourself a Magpul enhanced ejection port cover. Don’t have to worry about taking your upper apart, it just snaps into place and is easily removable.
Crazy that this guy very simply explains what others can’t .
Great video , thank you
Thanks for the comment and glad I could help haha!
Well there's the fact that he did it wrong LOL
@moderngunguy3666 good thing there are experts like yourself scouring the internet and youtube to find these scam artists. Thank you.
@@1stShotTacticalmy ar came with a fixed front sight how do I put a free float rail on that if there’s no dimple in the barrel
@@Brennagonxavier remove it, lol
As a guy with a a few different blocks, trays, etc... I still find myself using a roll of tape to tap pins in and out. Top notch brother.
Top notch, brother there, fixed.
I would not use the same wrench to loosen the barrel nut I would always switch to a no-torque wrench to loosen it.
Thanks for the comment and you’re 100% correct! Definitely use a breaker bar!
Well said Gunfighter! Mechanics 101!
Or set it to a higher torque to loosen it than what you torqued it to......big brain moves.
@@brettreid5949never loosen with a torque wrench
@@Schedule1ne315, how do you torque reverse threads?
A hair dryer or heat gun is a useful tool as well. BCM mills their uppers to be slightly small (to aid in accuracy they say).
I'm in the middle of a Grendel build and I'm waiting for it to cool down in Colorado so the barrel will shrink slightly (because it's cold) and the upper will be slightly larger (because I'm going to heat it) so I'm hoping it slides in just as easily as yours.
One method one used in the past to line up the gas block is to plug both the muzzle and the chamber and use a duster can. You'll hear it when it's lined up properly.
Bro…. You can put it in the fridge for 2 min instead of waiting for the season to change
@@dw3901 if you noticed when I posted that it was November. It was already getting cold in Colorado. Plus I've been building it since July so I'm in no rush.
Thanks for the support though.
You have to torch the receiver threads. JP Enterprises has a great video on installing barrels into thermal fit receivers.
Thanks for the video. I just picked up my stripped upper yesterday. As a first time builder I would like to mention something to others considering their first build. Unless you know someone who has all the required tools for a build and will lend or rent them to you, don't start your first build thinking it will be your only build. You will be buying some specialized tools.
I'm loving your Playlist. Building mine now. But word of advise. Never loosen with a torque wrench. It voids the calibration. Use a ratchet for that.
Noted! Thanks for the comment and glad I could help!!🙌
The Midwest reaction rod will prevent the barrel from clocking in the index slot of the upper receiver, worth every penny. Clam shell holders will put stress on the barrel's index pin and won't prevent barrel clocking...
Anti-sieze is not the best, it will harden and can cause problems, use AeroShell Grease 64 as recommended in the TDP specs..Put the grease on the upper barrel threads, in front of the barrel lip and around any shims..
I lap the upper receiver face and bed the barrel in the upper with green loctite..
I dimple the barrel for the set screw type gas block and use a little green loctite around the barrel journal to seal the gas block to the barrel journal.. I use Rocksett for the gas block set screws as even red loctite will fail with heat..Blue loctite is worthless on gas block set screws..Pinning can cause accuracy problems, especially with a .625 barrel journal..
The best adj gas block is the Riflespeed. It has made all other adj gas blocks obsolete..
Thanks for the comment and great insights🙌🙌
You’ve been taught well my friend
Why dont u just make a video on how to do this instead?
www.youtube.com/@InstructorChad@@sigspearthumb8856
th-cam.com/video/2yiWajGXkFc/w-d-xo.html@@sigspearthumb8856
Take a moment to attach the vice to your bench.👍
I think it wasn't attached it could be easily moved around to record
Love all my aero products thanky aero for all you do!!!
I’m sure I’m not the first person to say this, but you should never use a torque wrench to loosen the barrel nut. That’s a job for a breaker bar. Overall great video!
I'm new to the AR building game and I'm enjoying your videos, thank you. But I have to say brother, as an old man who has made his living with tools for 50 years, you have to invest in a proper set of roll pin punches, both starter and regular as well as a set of brass punches. Oh, and a proper bench block.
Again, thanks for the video, they are very good quality.
Decades of being a shade tree mechanic, the little things make a big difference!
Great video, thank you. One thing, I heard that using a torque wrench to loosen bolts messes up the internal calibration.
Yeah that’s true I heard as well but ohh well haha thanks for the comment!
that torque wrench looks like a harbor freight special so this is a possibility since their quality is questionable. in general, however, untorqueing fastners with a torque wrench is not a problem. in fact, many sensitive mechanical components (ex. engine head studs and the like) have an untorqueing procedure to prevent warping parts that requires using a torque wrench.
@@NCrowe I think its only an issue if you go past the setting
I suggest using a breaker bar or regular socket to loosen the barrel nut. Torque wrenches are finely tuned tools, and using them to loosen nuts can lead to them becoming wrongly calibrated.
What if you need to torque left hand threads?.........
@@randallsebald2299 I’ve never thought of that lol 😂🍻
Great video. Everyone is a critic in the comments and they will be the first to pick apart and slam a video. I found it very helpful! Thanks!
You should mention headspacing. I headspace all my builds regardless of whether they are ARs or bolt guns. It’s easy to do while the barrel is out but shouldn’t be overlooked.
Thanks for the comment and great point!!🙌
That is absolutely a must do
Yeah I learned that lesson on my first ar build seems to overlooked often
It's not necessary if you use barrel with preinstalled extension and trust barrel maker, which made that...
It’s always recommended to do the head-spacing, to many variables to not do it 😅
Best AR 15 build playlist hands down!
This was VERY helpful!!! Another great video, great camera visibility, great instructions and good tips as well! GLORIOUS!!!
What a great video. Im a first time watcher and builder. I started looking at complete uppers due to the uncertainty of installing, Im definitely looking forward to it now. Thanks
Subscribed keep them coming
Thanks for the comment and glad I could help!!🙏🙏 best of luck on the build man!!
Make sure you watch other videos because this one's got a few things wrong
Feelings are mutual and well worth it. The comments are helpful too and it's nice to see positive feedback versus the opposite. ✌️
FYI don't use your torque wrench to loosen anything, it's a precision tool. Breaker bar for loosening, torque wrench for tightening
Unless you have a bi directional torque wrench
@@mcnairdn I guarantee the 8.99 Pittsburgh torque wrench is not bidirectional … but technically I can’t argue with you 👍
@Raevenswood true and they are not even precision instruments. And I agree your advice is correct in 97% of cases.
@ 7:02, shows it's bidirectional
If my snapon one breaks ill just get a free new one🤷♂️ @Raevenswood
Yeah a lot of people don't realize how easy it really is to put an upper together good video by the way I like the colors of the barrel and the receiver curious to see the handguard and all of that once it's finished make that thing super duper light and a cool broken-up color scheme going sorry I'm telling you what to do it's your rifle but I like the color you got me wanting to put one together now good video 👍
Truth!!🙌🙌
@@1stShotTactical it's so insane how easily you can build your own firearm for so ridiculously cheap and it is really well-functioning looks better than 90% of the guns you will see complete at the store and cost a fraction of the price probably more reliable as well because you hand fitted it really if a lot of people weren't just lazy most gun stores would go out of business if they didn't need an FFL for receivers they would literally only make money on optics and ammo but I bet if you had all the pieces and weren't taking the time to explain in a video how to you can probably have one together in 10 to 20 min tops and it would run like a champ I thought my 450 Bushmaster was going to have cycling issues with the standard buffer weight and all the regular 556 parts except the barrel and magazine but the standard milspec buffer weight and spring cycles in like a champ just as well if not better than the complete that I ordered
Thank you for this instructions, make it super easy
I have a dimple jig for my set screws. Drill a recess into the barrel so they lock in place. That works out well for one of my uppers.
Yup that’s a great idea! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks! ... But what about head spacing ? ? ?
Head spacing is built into the barrel extension and bolt. If head spacing is incorrect then the barrel extension and/or bolt are out of spec. You can't adjust head spacing on an AR without replacement parts.
I like how you torque on then remove then re-torque. MY extra step,and it does make a difference, same as you do but remove the nut and clean the threads THEN do final torque. There WILL be coating and grit in the threads.
Very informative video and well explained. I like the idea of tighten and loosen the barrel nut. This will season the threads and give a much better barrel seat. Great job. How does the completed rifle shoot.
Well done video pardner!
Thanks for the comment and support!!🙏🙏
Use clamps to hold the vise onto a table or desk.
Thanks for the comment and great idea!!🙌🙌
Get 2 3 inch metal clamps for your vise. Portable vise is the way to go.
Thanks for the comment and tip!!🙌🙌🙏
very good stuff but loctite is useless in this case, the heat from the barrel will burn it
Thanks for the comment!!🙌
Awesome video question which Aero Precision barrel block and tube are you using there are so many but your setup makes things so easy
Appreciate man! And glad I could help! I actually have some videos up on my channel unboxing every part I used for this build! I believe it was a 750 low profile gas black and a mid length gas tube🤔 I forget lol😅
@1st Shot Tactical Thank will check the videos out
I'm not bashing 1st shot because I don't know what checks you performed prior to the video BUT.... Safety is paramount when doing this. What I would say is that the steps to insure the barrel is properly headspaced and examined prior to assembly is very important to show in a build video. After all this is the most critical part of the build in terms of safety. Your audience is looking to you for knowledge as most lack the knowhow to do this safely. It is not a difficult job building an AR but it is important that you show the safety aspect as well. I would not forgive myself if I caused injury or worse to someone as i am sure you probably would not either.
If you buy quality parts from a reputable supplier, why is the headspace ever in question?
Do a video.
Been buying firearms for years. Always whole guns. Since I have Hitler jr in Washington state passing an assault weapon ban. I bought enough parts to build 12 rifles. First time ever building my own. Thanks for this video.
Thanks for the comment and glad I could help!!🙌🙌 best of luck on the builds!!!
he also defunded police and now we have a criminal controlled zone with no law
Idk what you do for work but anti sieze is for threads only brother and just bit on the first 3 or 4 threads is usually enough
Excellent review, outstanding, thanks a lot
Thanks for the comment, glad I could help!!🙌
Mil spec gun grease on the upper threads and barrel extension
Good day, thank you for the great content. I am a new builder and was wondering what brand of barrel you used in this video? What model number? Thanks in advance.
It's in the title...Aero Precision
It’s a Ballistic Advantage 16” barrel!!👍
Just coming across this series, man they are great! I have an Aero builders kit that can now actually be built thanks to you! The no bullshit solid teaching is what I love!
Thanks man! Very helpful
Is there any way to remove that dust cover without having to remove the barrel nut?
yes guys build your upper I ran into a complete upper build come to find out its over torque barrel broke inside upper and started spinning inside now I build my own and torque just right💪
I'm nowhere near this part of the process, but good video. Still deciding if I want to build or buy a complete rifle.
Thanks for the comment glad I could help! And you can’t go wrong either way!!🙏
@@1stShotTactical Quite a few viseos on uppers, lowers, gas lengths, twist rates, & 80% lowers later... I like the 80% lower path just because of the middle finger aspect of it. Haha
I like the Handguard itself but that barrel nut star style to tighten it down is ridiculous. I sheered off some of the teeth off the barrel but only going to 45lbs. Now I can’t take the barrel but off and the gas tube slightly touches the barrel nut. They didn’t have to change the style of torquing it down it’s pretty dumb. Nice vid though
Thanks for the comment! And man that sucks about your barrel nut…. Hopefully you can get it fixed!
Very helpful and detailed instructions thank you !
Thx bud... Seems easy enough... My turn lol...
Glad I could help! And good luck!!🙌🙌👍
Is that vise bolted to the table?
Loving the series. Are all the Aero barrels notched for gad block or just some of them?
Thanks for the comment and glad I could help! I’m not 100% if they are all notched or not🤔 definitely help when it is!
The barrel block notch being pre-drilled is only a good thing if you’re using a matched gas block. Gas blocks vary a lot between different manufacturers.
What about headspace???
If your bolt locks up with a round in the pipe your headspace is gtg
@@vinnier6Thats dangerous logic
i hope you are aware antisieze isnt really grease and greatly diminishes clamping force
Shouldn’t you use a high temp type of loctite around the gas tube bracket?
Sideways hammer?
Just FYI, loctite on the gas block won't do anything. They get super hot, which completely negates loctite.
😂😂😂 thought of that after lol very true!
What he used is anti-seize, which allows something threaded together to more easily unthread in the future. It doesn’t become deactivated by heat. His brand of anti-seize just happened to be Locktite.
@@qubiedoo1 actually no he said blue loctite which is a thread locker.
-- uh --- first, he used anti seize (Loctite brand) on the barrel nut.
THEN he used thread locker (Loctite brand) for the gas block screws.
This guy is a beginner and has received a lot of great advice (from the above comments) as a result of having posted this video.
It is OK to cut him a little slack.
@@3cap97 appreciate it man! Haha always leaning!!🙌🙌
Great video. However, torque wrench gears are not designed to loosen bolts that are tightened. That lever is in case you need to switch directions to get the gears inside the head unstuck.
Please use a racket or breaker bar to loosen the barrel nut. It will safe your torque wrench
It sounds like you're saying "twerk." LOL Great step-by-step vid. Thanks!
Twerk twerk twerk!!! 😂😂 thanks for the comment and support!🙏
I'll never be putting a Barrel on a rifle. But I'm curious will it be torqued at 25 Nm or something
Use Aeroshell 33 on the barrel and receiver not anti seize.
I'll also jump on the bandwagon about the torque wrench use. Read the instructions that come with your tools before you use them the wrong way.
Enjoyed the video.
Those Wheeler clamshell vise mounts are actually pretty "risky" to use, as they transfer all the torque from the barrel nut into the _receiver_ which can cause your receiver to CRACK!😬 Instead you want to use a "reaction rod" tool, they're a long bar/rod that slides inside the receiver and has splines which mate inside the barrel against the bolt lugs, that means all the torque is applied to the barrel instead. You can typically find one for around $45-100 bucks.
Great tip and thanks for the comment!!🙌🙏
I bought the Magpul BEV block to mount in the vise after one use of that plastic clamshell crap.
@@CarlosRodrigues-zn8gh good tip!!
@@CarlosRodrigues-zn8gh unfortunately those are still "plastic" (unlike a _metal_ reaction rod) and can still flex, causing your upper to crack.
@@CarlosRodrigues-zn8gh th-cam.com/video/C4AHiVGdfFQ/w-d-xo.html
i have a primary arms handguard on the way, as well as a Bear Creek Arsenal barrel on the way, will it come with a barrel nut wrench?
My muzzle device is pinned and welded so I cant slide my gas gas block off. Will the barrel nut install from the receiver side of the barrel?
Negative… it sounds like you’ll have to find a handguard that accepts the same barrel nut you currently have🙁
Might just be better to cut it off and get a 2 piece block
How do you fix headspacing?
If you have an ar-15 barrel that isn’t headspaced correctly, it needs to be sent back to the manufacturer. Bad headspace means the barrel extension is set wrong, which then means the gas port is drilled in the wrong place.
Depends. Figure out what way your headspacing is out. If the bolt won't close on a go guage, you can sand the boltface back a little bit. Not much, and is dependent on HOW much it is out of tolerance. If the no go guage fits, then there isn't much you can do other than sending the parts back to the manufacturer. If a field guage closes, you might have to form 1 the gun as a destructive device because it's close to a hand grenade at that point.
Never break torque with a torque wrench - use a breaker bar.
Did you forget the pin for the barrel that mates to the upper?
Great vid 👌
Thanks for the comment and appreciate the support!🙌
Note that many of Loctite's formulas require using Loctites primer if the metal is coated. Most metals are coated. Loctite needs access to the metal's elemental makeup in order to harden.
It's a lube. Not a thread locker.
Aeroshell grease👍🏻
🙌🙌🙌
Nice and easy video. Perfect.
Who's barrel did you buy?
Well, this young man did a decent job of throwing a barrel on a upper receiver. That’s about all you can say, was it done right? Hardly. Was it worth making a video as a guide for others to follow? No. Too much was taken for garnet that it would be right solely on the premise that they were “ quality” parts. I myself have used from the same manufacturer and they are high quality parts and pieces, but I always check all my tolerances and fitments for my own piece of mind. Saying it was “high quality “ parts after it blows up in your face doesn’t mean much. Parts are parts, how the parts are assembled are key to building a safe and dependable rifle.
Thanks for the comment!👍
What exactly did he do wrong? What checks are you referring to that he should have shown in this video to meet your standards?
You were vague. My guess is you are the usual “internet gun expert”. Just posting to make yourself feel special.
@@lubrew5862 AGREED, WTF ?
What about the spacers and timing?
Do you not need shims for these
All depends if yours lines up! Mine lined up perfectly without them🙌
Did you use enough anti seize? But if you are really concerned about the heat there is high heat nickel anti seize. Also that stuff gets everywhere so its better to not touch it
Anti seize? Supposed to use good old shell areo grease. Good enough for Stoner and uncle Sam good enough for me.
As a mechanic I cringe at liberal use of anti seize, it will thin out with heat and act as liquid metal shavings. I never use it on spark plugs bc of that, plus it throws off torque settings.
What punches do i need?
That vise block and the vise itself are pretty sketchy. I use a reaction rod and a properly mounted vise to install the barrel and torque down the barrel nut
Ohh it is sketchy… but it get the job done! Lol🙌🙌
I like the MWI cus of the sail. Helps alot with other tightening.
@@ishnifusmeadle that’s exactly what I have
@1st Shot Tactical could you a make video of it I would like to see it out of curiosity.
Next time use correct size drill bit and slightly dimple the barrel where the 2 screws go in the gas block
Where can I buy that barrel in black with same exact set up as your video has? gas block everything. Need an online source that will ship to California
Following, have you found an answer?
This assembly brought to you by Loctite™
😂😂😂🙌🙌🙌
Great vid
Note to all whatever the torque spec when torquing if you use any type of lubricant reduce the applied torque to 70%. If you use full torque and lubricant you are over torquing
Are we using inch pounds or foot pounds cause im thinking about changing my barrel on my rifle
the wrench he was using is in ft/lbs. The only torque wrench at Harbor freight that does inch lbs is the 1/4" drive and he was using the 3/8" drive. I have both in my tool box.
60 ft pounds is the torque spec for that hanguard?
Aero says between 30 - 60lbs of torque for the barrel nut👍👍
Thanks for sharing!!
Do you have to apply grease to the barrel ?
It doesn’t hurt!👍
@@1stShotTactical thanks I’m currently building my ar pistol for home defense
If you don't remove the dust cover, you won't be able to get the tool for aligning the gas tube out. The spring loaded pin on the inside of the dust cover hangs up on he tool.
I just went through this and after some thought, I aligned the small "C" clip so I could see the two ends of the clip. I used 2 small screwdrivers . One on each of the "ends" and tapped the clip off.
It came off like a breeze. Just watch so the clip doesn't decide to take a cruise around the kitchen.
I then pulled the rod out of the cover from the rear "stock end". That's it. I have my first ever AR-15 close to being finished. I think I went over my budget but that's okay. Wheeler needs to modify the mold for the plastic pat that holds the gas alignment rod, You can't get it out "IF" you have the dust cover on. The first two flanges toward the front of the tool can't get by the dust cover spring catch on the inside. Then you would have to take the dust cover off. God Bless America. We need Trump back or else we're screwed.
This aero upper doesn't have that "c" clip, I bought a strike industries cover and was planning on. Putting it but found out that I have to loosen the barrel nut to remove it from the front... A PAIN IN THE ASS!.... I have a complete upper already assembled. All this work to replace a dust cover....SMH.... I'm going to remove the hand rail and see if I can find a way around removing the barrel nut.
I’d suggest checking your bolt carrier keys fit to gas tube before pinning gas block…
Just to be safe that it ain’t of kilt a lil.
Thanks for the comment and great suggestion!🙏🙏
Can you give me the sites where you found the gas block tube and gas block and barrel set
All from AIMsurplus!!
What length is the barrel
Thx for information 🙏🏼
Thanks for the comment, glad I could help!
Don't drive a point "pick" into the end of a roll pin. The pin is hollow with a slit down the side, so the point will actually expand the roll pin so that it won't fit.
Why would the gas block need set screws if it is pinned?
More secure! There’s a lot of pressure moving thru there👍👍
Why not? more the merrier
Blue locktite will not hold at gas port temps
How come you didn't show the shims installation?
Mine didn’t require any, it lined up perfectly!👍👍
To all you would be gunsmiths,I would advise you to at least watch a few vids from reputable gun builders before you build your first firearm. It may save you some headaches throughout the process
Lol Nahh just wing it! It’s not that hard!!🙌🙌
The hardest part I’ve experienced when rebuilding an M4 when I did small arms repair in Afghanistan, was those damn spring pins for the gas tube and block. 😂
Why did you remove the dust cover?
Yup that was a big mistake as I pointed out in the video😅😅😅 I thought it would fit better in the clamshell in the vise. Def keep your dust cover on tho lol
@@1stShotTactical magpul makes one u can just pop on if u still don’t have one
How do you remove Loctite?...HEAT...What gets Hot?...Your gas block.
did you use the shims? how did you see if it was head spaced?
The shims for the barrel nut have nothing to do with headspace.
You did not use a torque wrench to take off your barrel nuts. You only use it to tighten.
Correct use a breaker bar instead!!🙌🙌
Thank you guy
Thats how noveske sends out their barrels.