I love how that in your instructional video on how to do it, it did not work out right... So then you fixed it off-camera and you showed us how it came out.
The Aero Atlas handguard is magnificent. I've installed several of them on uppers. Torque spec on their barrel nut is 35-60 ft lbs. I set my wrench for 50 ft lb. The clamping system is ingenious. I've always had to use a couple shims under the barrel nut to get the gas tube to clock properly. You were lucky. The proper grease (MIL-Spec) is Umbrella Corporation AeroShell 35MS/64, a very high temperature anti-seize grease made for barrel nuts. A small tub lasts a very long time. Amazon sells it. Aero Precision makes excellent, well-made parts at superb prices. IMHO, the best value for the buck. Ballistic Advantage is joined at the hip with Aero Precision. From what I understand, Ballistic Advantage makes the barrels for the Aero Precision kits. Likewise, Aero Precision makes the upper receivers for the Ballistic Advantage kits. I've used Ballistic Advantage barrels. Extremely well made. Thus I shop both looking for the best pricing. Using DLC coated bolt carrier groups. Ballistic Advantage usually has them, but I've also used Next Level Armament from Optics Planet when Ballistic Advantage is out of stock. DLC is the best coating I've found yet . . . other than chromed which is very expensive. Holds lube, and its extremely hard surface doesn't wear much. Cleans extremely easily compared to other coatings. The A2 birdcage is almost the best flash suppressor made . . . which is why it's still the military standard. The best in flash suppression is the Smith Enterprise Vortex. Some of the US military Spec Ops use them in lieu of the birdcage. The only downside is it's an open three-prong which can get hung up on other gear.
Wow, what a shill. "The proper grease (MIL-Spec) is Umbrella Corporation AeroShell 35MS/64" - So, the proper grease is from a company that is based on Resident Evil video games and movies? Don't be so fucking stupid.
They're decent, but they're not on the same level as handguards that directly screw into the barrel nut for hard index. They're still a cut above regular clamping handguards, and very lightweight. I call these wedge-lock handguards to differentiate them from clamping versions.
Oddly enough, this is one of the most durable lock-up mechanisms of any rail on the market. It’s very similar to the BCM system. Maybe not quite as foolproof as Daniel Defense but it’s miles ahead of Midwest Industries and everyone else still using a friction-fit clamp style.
Awesome video!! My friend installed the barrel nut and it’s super tight but the torque wrench didn’t click? Could it be the wrench?? Another issue is that his aero precision handgaurd won’t fit! Any ideas why?? Thanks!
After installing mine it cut into the barrel nut and pushed the hand guard off center so the barrel is not even close to center of the end of handguard. Does the barrel nut have to be timed to make it fit properly?
Made by aero..none in stock on their site so I assume you need to get the handguard too. Just got one today and they're super nice and very lightweight.
@Joemama1q yeah unfortunately I did not know that. I ended up finding and buying the barrell nut. When I got the handguard I was mad about the extra money I wasted when I saw the barrel nut in the package. 🤣
When I follow these instructions and I am finished.. the “nut”s protrude on both sides about 1/16 of an inch.. maybe a bit more.. it’s not much but everything I see shows it should be smooth. It’s a aero barrel and upper and handguard The nuts are hand tight. I can’t imagine I should just crank on them until they are flush?
Hmm that’s odd🤔 the first time I tried to tighten it, It stuck out a little bit but I redid it and tightened it till it was flush so I’m not sure what’s wrong with yours🤔🤔🤔
@@mastadlo I got it flush- what I ended up doing: Took apart completely and inspected/cleaned for debris using alcohol soaked micro fiber and compressed air.. oiled the fitting and most importantly the nuts/bolt. reassemble. Cranked down… Kept cranking until it was flush. It was still tight but didn’t seem to “stop” when still protruding like it did last time. I built a different aero upper shortly after and assembled the same way and it went together much easier than the first upper did even the second time that I assembled.
I ordered an Aero Precision complete barreled upper that came with this R-One rail installed and the ejection port dust cover will not open all the way, so I ordered a Magpul Enhanced ejection port cover in hopes of replacing it. Unfortunately what I found is not only did I have to remove the rail to pull the long ejection port dust cover pin out, but the pin won't even clear the barrel nut so I'll also have to remove the barrel nut as well. What a stupid design!!! I know Aero Precision had a great idea with their M4E1 lowers making it so you don't have to drive a pin in to install the bolt catch implementing a threaded pin, but why did they make removing the ejection port dust cover a job better off left to an armorer? I'm frustrated because I'm not going to remove the barrel just to replace the dust cover. I'll just have to deal with the dust cover sticking off the side at 90 degrees or manually pushing it down with my thumb. What really frustrates me is that all of my other AR's including my lowest end ones allow for replacing the ejection port dust cover without making it a major operation. With all of their aerospace background, you'd think they be able to figure that one out.
If you remember can you post a link to the items you purchased. I dont know if i need the 15inch or 16.6 inch. Same barrel as yoi. Good videos tho. Keep it up.
@@1stShotTactical Actually, you CAN post the link. Not that hard to do, chief. Plenty of other youtubers provide links to all the products/tools/etc that they use in a video.
Don't you think you could at least take the time and trouble to get your terminology right before trying to teach someone else? Stud. Screws have points. Screwdriver it isn't. Its a TOOL or a TORX driver. Reverse thread. Now go do it correctly.
I’m going to be using an adjustable gas block that’s not going to be any different for install will it? Also so you know if the 16” 5.56 cmv mid length barrel from aero is pre cut aswell?
@@1stShotTactical I looked into it it’s not but that’s alright I watched a few videos and putting the gas block on shouldn’t be bad at all I’m using the enhanced upper so I don’t have to do any timing with the barrel nut and gas tube and there is a lip where you put the gas block and u put the block almost up against it to help line it correctly should be lined up perfectly if I do that!
Well, I swear to God you have been with me Step-by-step on this f****** build. And I love you for it.😂
Ong he came in clutch 🔥🔥😂
I love how that in your instructional video on how to do it, it did not work out right... So then you fixed it off-camera and you showed us how it came out.
Great guide for a complete AR build from a bag of parts to a complete gun ready to fire
The Aero Atlas handguard is magnificent. I've installed several of them on uppers. Torque spec on their barrel nut is 35-60 ft lbs. I set my wrench for 50 ft lb. The clamping system is ingenious. I've always had to use a couple shims under the barrel nut to get the gas tube to clock properly. You were lucky. The proper grease (MIL-Spec) is Umbrella Corporation AeroShell 35MS/64, a very high temperature anti-seize grease made for barrel nuts. A small tub lasts a very long time. Amazon sells it. Aero Precision makes excellent, well-made parts at superb prices. IMHO, the best value for the buck. Ballistic Advantage is joined at the hip with Aero Precision. From what I understand, Ballistic Advantage makes the barrels for the Aero Precision kits. Likewise, Aero Precision makes the upper receivers for the Ballistic Advantage kits. I've used Ballistic Advantage barrels. Extremely well made. Thus I shop both looking for the best pricing. Using DLC coated bolt carrier groups. Ballistic Advantage usually has them, but I've also used Next Level Armament from Optics Planet when Ballistic Advantage is out of stock. DLC is the best coating I've found yet . . . other than chromed which is very expensive. Holds lube, and its extremely hard surface doesn't wear much. Cleans extremely easily compared to other coatings. The A2 birdcage is almost the best flash suppressor made . . . which is why it's still the military standard. The best in flash suppression is the Smith Enterprise Vortex. Some of the US military Spec Ops use them in lieu of the birdcage. The only downside is it's an open three-prong which can get hung up on other gear.
Wow, what a shill. "The proper grease (MIL-Spec) is Umbrella Corporation AeroShell 35MS/64" - So, the proper grease is from a company that is based on Resident Evil video games and movies?
Don't be so fucking stupid.
They're decent, but they're not on the same level as handguards that directly screw into the barrel nut for hard index. They're still a cut above regular clamping handguards, and very lightweight. I call these wedge-lock handguards to differentiate them from clamping versions.
Oddly enough, this is one of the most durable lock-up mechanisms of any rail on the market. It’s very similar to the BCM system. Maybe not quite as foolproof as Daniel Defense but it’s miles ahead of Midwest Industries and everyone else still using a friction-fit clamp style.
Aero gards are nice
Awesome video!! My friend installed the barrel nut and it’s super tight but the torque wrench didn’t click? Could it be the wrench?? Another issue is that his aero precision handgaurd won’t fit! Any ideas why?? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment and glad I could help! And that is odd... I'm not sure why it doesn't fit.
Can you link your video showing how to install the barrel nut and gas tube/block please ? I’d really appreciate it
He already has one up.
What is that taper lock tool? Is that a torx or hex?
After installing mine it cut into the barrel nut and pushed the hand guard off center so the barrel is not even close to center of the end of handguard. Does the barrel nut have to be timed to make it fit properly?
Super helpful. Thanks!
Do you have to install the Atlas R one or can this take other rails?
That rail just gets squeezed in at that one point ? Crazy kind of
The barrel nut is specific to this hand guard so it should interface with the whole barrel nut technically
What upper do you have? I just bought the Atlas R one but don’t realize that it’s not compatible with my current upper🤦♂️
If I'm switching handguards do I have to swap the barrel nut it comes with if the rail fits over the oem factory one
Can you install another pic rail on the underside of that or no?
If you mean a 1913 pic rail, then yes!!🙌
Anyone know if this would this fit an Ruger 556
How do you get this handrail unstuck from the upper I’m trying to wipe down my barrel with oil and the handrail is just stuck on
Have you firgured that out yet? I am trying to do the same thing
What type of barrel nut is this and where can you purchase it from?
Comes with the handguard
Made by aero..none in stock on their site so I assume you need to get the handguard too. Just got one today and they're super nice and very lightweight.
@Joemama1q yeah unfortunately I did not know that. I ended up finding and buying the barrell nut. When I got the handguard I was mad about the extra money I wasted when I saw the barrel nut in the package. 🤣
When I follow these instructions and I am finished.. the “nut”s protrude on both sides about 1/16 of an inch.. maybe a bit more.. it’s not much but everything I see shows it should be smooth.
It’s a aero barrel and upper and handguard
The nuts are hand tight.
I can’t imagine I should just crank on them until they are flush?
Hmm that’s odd🤔 the first time I tried to tighten it, It stuck out a little bit but I redid it and tightened it till it was flush so I’m not sure what’s wrong with yours🤔🤔🤔
A pistol build I just finished was the same way. Maybe a little more then a 16th. Do the slots on the nut need to be aligned a certain way?
Same exact problem. Can't figure it out. Anyone know?
@@mastadlo I got it flush- what I ended up doing:
Took apart completely and inspected/cleaned for debris using alcohol soaked micro fiber and compressed air..
oiled the fitting and most importantly the nuts/bolt.
reassemble.
Cranked down…
Kept cranking until it was flush.
It was still tight but didn’t seem to “stop” when still protruding like it did last time.
I built a different aero upper shortly after and assembled the same way and it went together much easier than the first upper did even the second time that I assembled.
@@mastadlo I figured an easy way to make sure the bolts are even too- let me know if you can’t figure it out and I can make a video
You should put some blue loctite or Vibra-Tite VC-3 on the threads as the ratchet will not old the wedges tight with a lot of shooting..
Thanks for the comment and tip!!!🙏🙏🙏
Thnk so much
Thanks for the comment! Glad I could help!!🙌
I ordered an Aero Precision complete barreled upper that came with this R-One rail installed and the ejection port dust cover will not open all the way, so I ordered a Magpul Enhanced ejection port cover in hopes of replacing it. Unfortunately what I found is not only did I have to remove the rail to pull the long ejection port dust cover pin out, but the pin won't even clear the barrel nut so I'll also have to remove the barrel nut as well. What a stupid design!!! I know Aero Precision had a great idea with their M4E1 lowers making it so you don't have to drive a pin in to install the bolt catch implementing a threaded pin, but why did they make removing the ejection port dust cover a job better off left to an armorer? I'm frustrated because I'm not going to remove the barrel just to replace the dust cover. I'll just have to deal with the dust cover sticking off the side at 90 degrees or manually pushing it down with my thumb. What really frustrates me is that all of my other AR's including my lowest end ones allow for replacing the ejection port dust cover without making it a major operation. With all of their aerospace background, you'd think they be able to figure that one out.
If you remember can you post a link to the items you purchased. I dont know if i need the 15inch or 16.6 inch. Same barrel as yoi. Good videos tho. Keep it up.
Thanks for the comment! Unfortunately I can’t post the link but yes this is a 15” handguard on a 16” barrel👍
@@1stShotTactical Actually, you CAN post the link. Not that hard to do, chief. Plenty of other youtubers provide links to all the products/tools/etc that they use in a video.
Is that a T15 or T10 bit?
T15
Mine doesn't have that cut in it?
I see it is fastened to the Barrel nut
Yes goes right around it!
I just ordered this Handguard, does it come with a barrel nut? If not what should I buy? Thanks.
It does come with the barrel nut and wrench head!👍
Will not clear a RifleSpeed gas block.
Don't you think you could at least take the time and trouble to get your terminology right before trying to teach someone else?
Stud. Screws have points. Screwdriver it isn't. Its a TOOL or a TORX driver. Reverse thread. Now go do it correctly.
Lol s tf u you clown you and everyone watching knows what he means you're such a tool 😂😂😂😂
I’m going to be using an adjustable gas block that’s not going to be any different for install will it? Also so you know if the 16” 5.56 cmv mid length barrel from aero is pre cut aswell?
It’ll be the same process for installing the adjustable gas block👍👍 and I’m not sure to answer your second question🤔
@@1stShotTactical I looked into it it’s not but that’s alright I watched a few videos and putting the gas block on shouldn’t be bad at all I’m using the enhanced upper so I don’t have to do any timing with the barrel nut and gas tube and there is a lip where you put the gas block and u put the block almost up against it to help line it correctly should be lined up perfectly if I do that!