I wish there was a chart with calibers, barrel and gas lengths, and buffer weights breakdown. Old school text book style. Just finishing a .458 socom build and finding an accurate weight setup that isnt just "start with this and adjust from there" is kinda lame. There has to be some sorta math based/measured number system to selecting buffer setups. Unless I just havent found it.
I'm also starting a .458 build. I have read that the chamber pressures of the .458 are around 35,000 psi, and the 5.56 is around 48 to 50,000 psi. I have watched videos that say a standard weight 5.56 buffer should be good, if the barrel is gassed properly. I am still learning.
I think a more representative form would be a developed calculator. There are too many variable combinations for just 1 table. It would be easy enough though, just plug in the values for each variable to receive the answer.
@@jhutch1470 .223 is around the 40 ~50K PSI, the 5.56 NATO is closer to 55K according to the schematics I saw back in the Army days, in the Weapons mechanic shop, at my bench
There's 3 sizes of buffer tube. There is also the A5 buffer system which uses a rifle length spring, but the tube is in between rifle and carbine. It's actually an amazing system and reduces felt recoil and improves ejection.
I've always wondered if felt recoil would be reduced if using a rifle length tube and spring but a lighter weight and/or shorter buffer weight. Goal being to prevent the buffer weight/bolt carrier combination from ever bottoming out the spring. This video seems to tell me that I'll have problems with FTF due to carrier speed though.
They really are a great company. Customer service is great. I try to buy from them or Midway USA over Amazon or somewhere else if I can. Worth a slower shipping compared to Amazon.
I have a Spike’s T2 buffer in my 11.5 Spike’s Tactical. With a JP Enterprises tuned and polished spring. It shoots like a dream, without the annoying twang that my old DPMS had.
@@mikesuch9021 Yeah I’ve looked at that. I’m not sure if I want to go that route yet. My Spike’s buffer is crushed tungsten, so no clacking buffer weights. I don’t buy cheap springs, so I don’t have to worry about noise.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 I don’t know, I thought crushed tungsten was actually a good idea. I don’t like the clacking sound buffer weights make. Spikes has some cringey advertising, but they do make good stuff.
I have a 8.5 that is way to gassy right of the bat. I went to the heaviest configuration with Odin (Heavy buffer + 1T+2S ) and still can’t get the 3 o’clock ejection pattern. I went ahead and got 2 more Tungsten weights and not overall weight is 7. something oz. If tomorrow I go to the range and is under gassed my next move ( original move to be honest) will be to add a suppressor.
I bought a spike T3 buffer I installed it lotta gas in my face, but with no recoil so I ordered the T2 buffer and I think I might leave it at that. Haven’t shot it yet though, but it definitely helps the recoil
Have a Unbranded AR lower paired with and Aero upper. Had issues with the bolt coming back to fill battery. Just a hair behind where it needed to be but caused to not fire. Made sure to line it up good. Took a bit but now shoots fine. Guess it just needed to break in. Used white lithium grease on the spring and buffer and toned the twang down a bit too.
Great point about the grease and the twang that would've been a nice little tidbit in this one. I'd be willing to bet that the VAST majority of us, haven't put a spec of grease on their springs...and that it might be just enough to make annoying twangs manageable. (Unless you're into that kinda thing. Ha!)
If the gas port is correct for the barrel length, then a standard buffer weight and proper length spring is perfect in any semi auto.. Vltor mill spec receiver extensions are the only buffer tubes I will use. The A5 is not necessary or does it reduce recoil impulse. JP SCS are perfect for any semi auto..H2 or bigger are not needed for properly gassed rifles..
Geissele Super 42's in everything with H-2's. 4 o'clock pattern unless suppressed... I like those regular Springco blue springs too, never had a problem with those with a H-2 either. Geissele stuff just ......costs more, lol
Unfortunately all the greatest material things in life seem to have a hefty tag on them....but you know damn well I'm still gonna get that Polaris General one day! 😂
Extremely helpful for the latest build I did which is a 7.5” barrel and correlating gas system. Couldn’t understand it’s trouble and am only recently enlightened by the buffer weight factor. Thank you for this perfect explanation !
Randy, I like you even more now that I've seen this. Had no idea you were both a reef guy and a gun guy. You've been such a staple of my reef hobby for so long and to see you hear, makes me smile.
I just took a break from drawing out how i want to design the stand for my 60 breeder reef tank build to sit back and watch some 2nd A content. My face when the video started out with Randy was like 👁️👄👁️ I thought there was a glitch in the matrix
I have an 11.5” barrel, mid length gas system and an adjustable gas block. H1 tungsten buffer. No matter how much I open my gas block I can’t get the BCG to lock back on the last round but it will cycle and feed a new round. Last thing I can think of is my spring. It’s 39 coils and the spring seems much thicker than my other rifles spring that runs flawlessly.
I mean an 11.5” with mid length system is not really all that common and I’d assume would potentially have some dwell time issues. If no last round and you have an adjustable gas block, go down to a carbine (no tungsten weights) buffer first. If still no lock back, add the lighter spring and that should get you there. Which has block do you have and which barrel? Is it the Faxon?
@@Gnome-A-Tron thanks for the reply. I have a ballistic advantage barrel and a seekins precision AGB. I finally figured it out. I had a cheap buffer spring. The actual coil was twice the girth (he he) as any of my other coils. Swapped it out and it’s locking back!
I need help. To make a long story short, I built a rifle and embarrassingly bought a lower that came with a pistol grip. Swapped out the pistol grip with an adjustable stock and figured, "well, that was easy". So... I take it to the range and the rifle doesn't cycle completely. It ejects the spent casing, but doesn't re-engage the trigger. Outside of ammo or magazine, I suspect it's because the buffer is too heavy or spring is too stiff as it was meant for something with a shorter barrel and higher pressure?
Yes, heavy buffer like an H3 for short ARs like a 10.5. You may also want to check gas block alignment I had this same issue with a 20 inch build and I was able to fix it with an adjustable gas block.
@@At3tactical I did some more research. The bcg is going far enough back to eject casing and load a new round - so the hammer must be moving back into the position it needs to be in to lock down. So... it's gotta be something in the trigger assembly that's off. Springs are correct, though.
Im building a .300 Blk out and will be using a carbine tube and carbine spring, probably going to try a H3 weight unless other people have other recommendations
Nice video. I have two AR-15’s 18 and 20” barrels. Rifle length gas tube. Short cycling. I have carbine buffer tube, spring and weight. I am going to replace carbine buffer weight with a buffer weight of 2.75 oz. I’ve tried the JP Enterprise system as well. I am still evaluating my situation and will likely start over and look at each possible area that might be the culprit to include ammunition brand vs reloads. I could say more, but won’t bore everyone with the specifics.
I'd be willing to bet that the culprit might be the gas block and most likely that it is not aligned properly with the barrel gas port. You might see indications of gas leaks in that general area around the gas block (carbon buildup that looks forced outward)... but if not, it might be worth having someone look at it. Not sure what gas block / barrel combo you're working with but in MOST cases where you're installing your own gas block on a barrel shoulder (gas block journal)... there should be about a credit card width of space between the gas block and the "shoulder". Most barrels have a hard stopping point where the gas block can't travel any further... that would be the "journal / shoulder"... a credit card distance off that point is about right 80% or more of the time. Hopefully you get it figured out! Let us know where we can help.
@@At3tactical Thank you! Your correct on re-examining the gas block which is next. I suppose I was wanting to avoid that, but it appears this might be the case which I knew was a possibility and all likelihood the problem. One other area I am re-examining is undercharge cartridge which might be possible, but not likely.👍
@@georget7865 Roll up a piece of white paper, slide it inside the handguard, and fire off a few rounds to see if the paper is catching any blast. If so, the block could either be out of alignment or have an out of spec inside diameter, or worst case, the barrel diameter is. If the paper checks clean-ish, then the gas port is likely too small. Before checking the gas port size, make sure that you aren't using either a rifle spring or buffer inside of your carbine buffer tube. Check that you aren't using an AR-10 spring or buffer inside of an AR-15 buffer tube. Check that the inside of the buffer tube isn't being partially blocked by debris or machined incorrectly. If machined out of spec or mis-threaded during install, it may cause the bcg to bind, shortening it's travel. Check the upper receiver itself. Poor milling can throw everything out of whack. This can be from misaligned cuts, narrow cuts, or even the upper itself being slightly crushed, causing it to squeeze the bcg, and thus either shorten or slow it's travel. Check that the gas key is fully seated on the bcg. Check that the gas tube is not crimped, blocked, or has a misaligned gas port hole.
Ok, so regarding the JP silent buffer system. I’m building a 13.9” with a carbine length gas, and buffer tube extension. I’m really wanting to try the JP, can it just be dropped in and done? I saw another video where a shim may be needed, but other than that, slap it in and close it up?
I'm building a 6.5 Grendel 24 inch barrel with a rifle length gas system and I have standard AR 15 lower with a carbine tube and buffer, the question is with that barrel and gas system length can I remove the carbine tube and buffer and replace it with a rifle (A2) buffer tube and buffer? I pretty sure I can but not certain and help would be great, thanks in advance.
Man, I'm so sorry this comment was off my radar. Garbage YT notifications. You are 100% right on thinking that. Don't forget the rifle length spring as well, but plenty of rifle length "kits" out there. I'd also consider adjustable gas, considering you're pretty stuck with the 5-ish oz of that rifle length buffer. Hope that was in time to help! -Randy
I had any idea, while building an AR. To build a pneumatic cycling thingamadoodle / gizmo. An air compressor hose and trigger, you can quickly attach to your muzzle. This would blow a shot of air pressure, down the barrel (backwards) cycling the BCG, loading a fresh dummy round, and working the buffer weight and spring system. In hopes of tuning the guns cycling.
Well you'll need something that can go from zero to 58,000 PSI in a small fraction of a second. Seems non-trivial to me...not like you can just turn a valve on your shop compressor. Also, this part I'm less clear on but I'm not sure just pushing pressure down from the muzzle will operate like an actual shot.
I wish you would have talked about the two silent capture buffer spring assemblies under your left arm. I just picked up one of those it looks like the JP enterprises I just bought. Was hoping you would share some interesting tips.
Me too! Im a complete noob trying to learn as much as possible and Im losing my mind trying to figure out what the difference is with a silent capture buffer. Can someone please elaborate on this?! I saw them on the bench and thought "perfect! he is going to clear it up for me!" then he never mentions them 😭😭
Have a new psa lower and brass is flinging out in front of me. About to replace the standard buffer with an H1. Thanks for the video, it makes good sense of things for us getting started.
Not necessarily. Far too many variables to account for, but at the same time it's not necessarily complicated enough to warrant one. The large majority of 5.56 rifles will likely end up with an H2, but honestly unless someone was planning a non-traditional build (super short, suppressed, etc.), the $10-$15 more for an adjustable is probably the way to go.
@@At3tactical Windham Weaponry says it’s a carbine buffer. It weighs 4.8 ounces with th e spring on there. I don’t want to take the spring off cause it’s on good and I don’t want to screw it up. But if it’s 4.8 with the spring and WW is calling it a carbine buffer I’m guessing it’s probably the 3 ounce version
I have a Bushmaster 20 inch rifle. I replaced the front sight with a block rail. Replaced gas tube. I put on a Magpul solid But stock and attached a rail to the upper receiver. Since doing this. I cannot get it to cycle properly. It never puts a round in the chamber. So then I replaced the entire bolt and bolt carrier. Based on modifications what do you suspect changed and is causing an issue.
I got an24 inch and i went the other direction. I changed my fixed stock and buffer to a magpul adjustable buttstock and tube. In doing so i had to change to a shorter spring and different buffer so basically im running a carbine buffer in my 24 inch barreled bushmaster. If u changed the gas tube maybe u seated it to far and choked it off. Is the action opening at all after u fire a round or does it go off and not cycle at all. I would think maybe your spring is to heavy and its keeping your buffer from cycling all the way back or did u not change the buffer and simply placed a longer heavier spring behind the buffer u had. The buffer and stock i took off looked exactly like the one he showed. It ran flawlessly that way for 3 years then i swapped to a carbine buffer with the adjustable stock and it still operated properly. Is it ejecting your spent casing and not picking up the next one or has it ever ran properly with that magazine. I noticed if put 30 rounds in a 30 rd mag the first rd is flat with the top where as u remove 1 and only have 29 that top one has a bit of a angle. Could be a bunch of things but id start with easiest like taking a couple bullet out the mag and trying again before u go tearing it apart to realize it was a mag problem if your mags were topped off at the time . But id check your gas tube make sure its clear if your action wont cycle to even eject if thats fine and it ejects a spent shell but wont grab the next id try a lighter spring. But if the gun has never functioned since u owned it id also check as u close the bolt if the bullet is even close to being touched by the bolt carrier or if it just slides over top and will never touch it no matter what u do short of miling the magwell. But if the mag locks it should be high enough for the carrier to grab. Try slapping the buffer from your other stock into it, the one u used prior to this stock maybe also the spring. If the carrier worked fine before i would not think it needed to replace the bolt carrier though they are pretty solid components might need cleaned but replaced prob not. I marked my gas tube before i removed it so i knew how deep to reinsert it into the gas block after i painted and dipped my gun. But if u pushed it to far in it would def close it off which might make it not open far enough to eject a shell or load a new one.. but filling a mag all the way has def caused my gun not to grab the next round
I just built a retro M16 Dissipator (A1 fixed stock, A1upper, 16.5" barrel, rifle length gas tube, triangle handguards, and FSB). It would not fully cycle, so I tried using a lightweight BCG, but it still wouldn't cycle. I then swapped out the 5.6 ounce rifle buffer with a 3 ounce carbine buffer. Now it runs like a champ with either the standard BCG or lightweight BCG. I haven't seen any signs of excessive recoil, but I may pick up a 4.6 ounce buffer and see if it works.
Just a word of warning. As I'm sure you know, the carbine buffer is not as long as the rifle buffer. This means the carbine buffer can move further back into a rifle length extension. Ideally, the bolt face will travel only about a half inch past the bolt stop. If it travels further, then that (like it would with a carbine buffer in a rifle length tube) then the bcg will get a "run" on the forward stroke and slam into the bolt stop harder. This could break the bolt stop. Also, your probably ramming the back of your carrier key into the lower receiver where the buffer threads in. This is bad for the carrier key and your lower. You need to do one of two things. Either find a lighter weight rifle length buffer (or spring), or add some kind of spacer to make up the missing length.
@@wesleyroberts7119 I had considered this possibility, but have seen no signs of impact. This doesn't mean it hasn't happened or can't happen over time, but I don't know of any practical way to confirm this is an issue in my Dissipator. I did install a heavier 4.6 ounce CAR buffer and it still works fine. Since the carbine buffer I'm using can theoretically compress 6.4" instead of 3.8", I have considered several alternatives. The first one is to install a carbine length spring and CAR buffer over a 2.6" spacer so that maximum BCG movement is 3.8". I have also looked at using a lightweight A2 buffer, but they are rather pricey. As an alternative I am thinking of removing a weight from an A2 buffer and installing a plastic or aluminum filler.
@@wesleyroberts7119 I just modified an A2 buffer by removing one of the weights and replacing it with a nylon insert that I made on my lathe. This brought the total weight down to 3.7 ounces. The Dissipator functioned flawlessly with it and it's very light recoiling. This should resolve any potential issues with the BCG or bolt stop.
A properly gassed barrel, rather 10.3” or 16” (and everything between) will run great with an H2 and standard Carbine spring. Assuming quality, standard pressure to 5.56 pressure ammo used.
Would love to see you guys do an updated video including the a5 systems, showing ejection patterns with different buffer weights and springs, with and without suppressors. Great video!
This a great breakdown of it all. Glad i found your channel. I'm in the middle of buying parts for a 20" AR rifle build and this is what i was looking for. Thanks for running us through it.
@@At3tactical Absolutely. I was an instructor for several years of my Air Force career and I appreciate the value of focused and concise delivery of correct and useful information. The high production value and clearly organized flow of your video don't happen by accident so I wanted to thank you for your efforts. Best of luck with your business and TH-cam endeavors. I'll be checking out AT3 Tactical for my firearms needs because of this video.
Had a 16 inch in 9mm and i can tell you that the spring can make you scratch your head trying to back a high speed bcg down tryed buffer after buffer and was still setting the projectile back hard in the case changed the spring and all good
My favorite rifle is a 16" mid length gas tube with a rifle buffer and tube with a braided spring. It's the smoothest shooting ar that I've shot and I've yet to have it malfunction.
Best video I've seen yet on this. I'm dealing with 2 builds from scratch. 1. 16" 5.56 / .223 that feeds and extracts but no LRBHO ( I do need to try a different mag, only had 1 at the range during cherry pop time ) 2. 10.5" 5.56 / .223 that fails to feed and sometimes extracts ( potential gas block issues - unconfirmed) I am relatively new to all this. Please keep making the highly informative videos. Stay Rad. Stay safe!
Thanks for checking us out! From the sounds of it both seem to be undergassed, which I would start troubleshooting first at the gas block alignment. One of the most common issues with builds is the placement of the gas block. Many builders just shove the gas block right up against the shoulder on the barrel, when it typically needs about a credit card width of space off the shoulder for proper alignment. Not doing this can restrict enough gas from going back to your BCG to cause it to short stroke. If that turns out to not be your issue, you could look into swapping out the buffers to the next lightest weight. (I.e.- From H2 to H). Hope that helps! You can always give us a call or send in an email as well. We're happy to help!
I ordered all the parts i needed to build 2 ARs the same length as you’d at the same time.. I didn’t make it far before I just took them both to a gun smith. Good luck doggie
I believe you're talking about the Armaspec Sound Mitigation Buffer and Stealth Recoil Spring. In which case, those are both designed to reduce noise inside the buffer tube...we're talking mostly about the sound of the spring on aluminum as it travels and that common "twang" you hear with standard single wire MilSpec buffer springs. They accomplish that by having the buffer weight ride on a "piston rod" type of operation, which supposedly not only allows truer centerline travel inside the buffer tube, but allows them to put a completely different spring around the "piston rod" to accomplish that "Sound Mitigation". Hope that helps!
I sped through the review but I don't think you dove into the A5 extension tube or combos at all for carbines???? You touched on a fixed rifle stock with a rifle length system but what alot of guys are using is the A5 Vltor or the BCM MK2 A5 buffer set up on thier carbines
I replaced my collapsible stock with a UTG A1 military stock. It came with the correct tube, spring and buffet weight. My AR15 cycles perfectly and have no issues after over 2,000 rounds. If you convert, get a complete kit. Don’t mix and match.
Yeah, that one got us in trouble a couple times on YT. Luckily we have it in the AR-15 Guide playlist at the AT3 Knowledge Center. content.at3tactical.com/
Great video, I’ve used my suppressor on my bolt action .223s but today was the first time on my PSA A2 with a fixed stock. Shot five rounds and it felt like the buffer was going to blow out the back. There’s a ton of info on carbine buffers but not so much on rifle length buffers. Is the answer adding tungston weights to your stock buffer or could you recommend one that I could get to tame this beast. Thanks for this whole series. Subscribed
Hey! Sorry about that. Ep-8 was a double slap on the wrist from big-bro YT... so we have it on our content site below. Ep-17 is still in the works... We got excited to launch our AR-10 Miniseries & Giveaway that we put the AR-15 Series on pause for a brief moment. Not to worry, we'll be back on that hog in no time! content.at3tactical.com/
@@thesanfordmethod1905 Ahh, sorry about that. Ultimately that Ep-8 will end up on our content site, but for it looks like the issue was trying to use a Rumble link... Anywho, enough inside baseball.... Your Link, Sir! rumble.com/v1ugnwi-ep-8-billet-forged-completed-or-stripped-lower-receivers-your-ar-15s-most-c.html?mref=11fu27&mc=f3b2w
@@At3tactical Thank you so much ! I will certainly like all these pages and subscribe if I haven't already. So in total presently there are 16 episodes? I ask because somewhere on the mix I read "over 20 episodes", this is a great series, I'd like to see them all. Thanks again ! :D (oh I just answered my own question, you mentioned you're working on Ep-17, me dumb.. Lol ).
Should I concern myself with spring diameter since my rifle has a commercial buffer tube? I have found conflicting advise online, I would really like an honest answer on this topic.
Not at all. I'd venture to bet that a spring diameter conversation has popped up in multiple conversations, but at the end of the day the VAST majority of the industry stay pretty close to a similar diameter. Are there variances of diameter out there? Are they worth chasing down and worrying if it's right? I know it's not a concern I have, so for me that answer is no. Thanks for chiming in! -Randy
Great video guys. Thank you. It’s amazing to me how nobody seems to really have an answer for most firearm spec issues. So much nonsense in the industry. Personal preference and people just trying to make the most money with the least about of knowledge and effort. Again, I appreciate this video more that I can explain.
Geissele Super 42 spring and proprietary H2 buffer makes my 16" mid-length rifle shoot like a dream. Very light recoil, cycles perfectly, and definitely no spring twang. I also purchased a spare tungsten weight in case I needed it, but it turns out it's perfect as it is. I mentioned proprietary buffer as the spring won't slip over the shoulder on a standard buffer due to it's decreased inside diameter. Since the spring is built to last, it should be the last spring/buffer set I'll ever need to purchase.
I listened to my friend who ended up not knowing Jack shit, and bought different things to build my AR. It's built, but only good for one shot. It fails to eject/feed. I have a 20" barrel, rifle-length gas system, with a carbine buffer tube. Is there any fixing that? Or do I need to get a different extension, buffer spring, and buffer? Thanks for any help.
Did u lose your retaining pin for your buffer.? Should be when u open the back of ar and u can look inside at your buffer tube where its threaded in should be sitting above a recessed pin that keeps the buffer system from going past that point. Your buffer tube should have like half a thread over lapping to keep it from popping out when u open your lower and upper from the rear. I know i lost that pin and it became a 1 shot until i bought a parts kit to replace that little tit and spring. If u didnt know maybe u didnt place it in. I got a 24 inch barrel bushmaster and replaced the fixed stock with a carbine stock and buffer so i could adjust it. Never had an issue but u lose or dont put that little recesed pin in when u screw your buffer tube in your gun wont operate but 1 shot at a time. It could be a gas problem but if u forgot that spring a buffer retainer could be same problem that buffer spring should stay put when u seperate upper from lower. If its not then thats the prob.
Is there a difference in the tension of New carbine Springs? I have a brand new Ruger 556 and man is that spring strong. I haven’t even shot it yet, I’m worried that the spring is way too strong by itself. Great video. Thank you.
Alright, I'm at a loss here. I've got a rifle-length buffer weight + rifle-length buffer spring + rifle-length buffer tube in an M16A2-style fixed stock... the BCG cannot travel rearward to clear the magazine well. It's gotta be something obvious that I'm missing
The .308 vs. 5.56 buffer systems are a little bit confusing, which is why we are also kicking off an AR10 Build Series specific to addressing info like this. That said, the biggest difference between the two are the buffer weights and springs. They are not interchangeable. (AR10 Buffer Weights and Springs are shorter than AR15 weights/springs) So, there are a few options out there to make it easier like the Aero Precision AR10 .308 Carbine Buffer Tube Kit (which ONLY comes with a 3.8oz buffer weight), or you can mix and match your weight and spring (likely the ideal choice). The Aero AR10 spring is plenty good, but the weight of choice for us would be the Odin Works Adjustable AR10 Buffer Weight... so you're not pigeon-holed into that lighter 3.8oz only. From there, it's a matter of dialing in the correct weight for your specific gas system length, cartridge load, etc... but with the adjustable weight, easy peasy. Hope that helps!
Trying to diagnose a FN rifle here. Not a consistent issue but enough for concern. Will fire and eject but won’t pick up the next round. I am trying to do like a C7A2 setup so it’s on a carbine lower. Tried multiple buffers and while the H2 seemed to work best it will still have issues feeding here and there. Is this a buffer/spring issue or possibly gas issue?
I've run into that issue with some 7.62x39 builds, not enough gas, had to open up gas hole in barrel. I took small steps, until it cycled properly. Did not need adjustable gas block.
Good video, but what about 7.62 X 39 mm round and 9mm X 19mm rounds in 16 1/4 barrels. Or the other more exotic like.308 and. .300 black out .and .458 Socom and .MGI's Hydra (multi Caliber) platforms ?
Just the 5.56/.223 basics for this AR15 series, but don't worry we're not done yet. I believe we might see an AR10, AR9, and other miniseries after this one is over.💪
I'm a big fan of the armaspec H2! You can remove the buffer retaining pin with a captured buffer, and that pin is a serious failure point of the AR15. It's not expensive, it's smooth, and it make your gun more reliable.
Just scraping the surface this time around. We've got a TON of videos still on the horizon and we'll come back around to pickup questions like these. :)
I bought a PSA 10.5 inch AR pistol….it came with Magpul brace that has 3 positions on the buffer tube….in anticipation of the new BS ATF pistol brace rule I bought a PSA 16 inch upper and I replaced the brace with a regular buttstock….Hogue buttstock….still has the original buffer and spring that came with the pistol….do you think it’ll shoot ok? I haven’t had a chance to take it to the range yet but I was wondering if I would need to change the buffer weight or tube or spring or nothing at all
The range is the best way to find out for sure, but in prep you could weigh your current buffer weight to get an idea of what it is. (Most likely it's an H2, but could be H3 due to the short length. Whatever PSA uses.). If it's an H2, you're probably going to cycle just fine while H3 might short stroke due to weight. If it is a H2 and it you find it failing to extract or feed, pick up a H1 and call it a day. 💪
Yeah, that episode got us in a little hot water with YT. Luckily they've come around a bit on legal 2A content, but still fighting the good fight with episode #8. BUT..... we have it posted on our AT3 Knowledge Center. content.at3tactical.com/
The m-16 I had in basic training sounded like Tigger bouncing around on his tail. The first time I shot a well kept AR-15 I thought it was broken because I couldn't hear the spring.
Get ADJUSTABLE gas block $20...all problems within the range of silencer or 10"+ barrel solved easily -- and with less recoil & barrel-rise then changing the buffer. Flatwire spring also important so u are 20x less likely to have a "single shot rifle" SUDDENLY during CQB. Adj gasblock & flatwire are STANDARD upgrades on all semi-auto rifles or family has. How could u not have the extra $10 for each?? Given what they do... And no more replacing those $3 "standard" springs means the flatwire PAYS FOR ITSELF, ANYWAY. The reduced wear of adjustable gas also eventually pays itself...
🤣 Haha! Nope, not dead. Just changed industries for TH-cam video topics. I once taught folks how to keep a monkey alive in space...well, almost like that. Keeping ocean critters alive in a tank at your house, which is pretty damn tough!
So then tell me why my brand new Geissele 11.5in upper shooting 5.56 wont lock a bolt to the rear on the last round in the mag. Then when I switch to .223 it wont even eject the round, but when I shoot suppressed the gun runs like butter. I say it's undergassed, but everyone has told me that I am crazy considering it's a brand new Geissele. H1 buffer with their super 42 spring.
So… building an SPR in 18 inch w/ 1:8 twist. Shooting the 77gr SMK BTHP. Any suggestions on a spring and buffer assembly? I am doing a rifle length gas (adjustable) with a carbine butt stock.
Great info. Just came from your bcg video. Another great one! Been learning and scheming. All great stuff for a buy once cry once shtf self defense goals.
I wish there was a chart with calibers, barrel and gas lengths, and buffer weights breakdown. Old school text book style. Just finishing a .458 socom build and finding an accurate weight setup that isnt just "start with this and adjust from there" is kinda lame. There has to be some sorta math based/measured number system to selecting buffer setups. Unless I just havent found it.
It might take some time, but we'll eventually get there!
@@At3tactical I just read the blog on buffer weights and it is helpful. Still not quite the chart Im looking for but a good read none the less.
I'm also starting a .458 build. I have read that the chamber pressures of the .458 are around 35,000 psi, and the 5.56 is around 48 to 50,000 psi. I have watched videos that say a standard weight 5.56 buffer should be good, if the barrel is gassed properly. I am still learning.
I think a more representative form would be a developed calculator. There are too many variable combinations for just 1 table. It would be easy enough though, just plug in the values for each variable to receive the answer.
@@jhutch1470 .223 is around the 40 ~50K PSI, the 5.56 NATO is closer to 55K according to the schematics I saw back in the Army days, in the Weapons mechanic shop, at my bench
Surprisingly, there aren’t many good videos on this. But this one knocks it out of the park. Thanks!
Thanks, glad you liked it.
There's 3 sizes of buffer tube. There is also the A5 buffer system which uses a rifle length spring, but the tube is in between rifle and carbine. It's actually an amazing system and reduces felt recoil and improves ejection.
I've always wondered if felt recoil would be reduced if using a rifle length tube and spring but a lighter weight and/or shorter buffer weight. Goal being to prevent the buffer weight/bolt carrier combination from ever bottoming out the spring.
This video seems to tell me that I'll have problems with FTF due to carrier speed though.
Man this company gained a new customer.
Love to help.
I'm thinking the same. I didn't know Jack about my Ar but after watching this series up to now I feel like I'm well educated about these firearms.
They really are a great company. Customer service is great. I try to buy from them or Midway USA over Amazon or somewhere else if I can. Worth a slower shipping compared to Amazon.
I have a Spike’s T2 buffer in my 11.5 Spike’s Tactical. With a JP Enterprises tuned and polished spring. It shoots like a dream, without the annoying twang that my old DPMS had.
The new FM 15 will never get a buffer spring Twang it doesn't come with one.
@@mikesuch9021 Yeah I’ve looked at that. I’m not sure if I want to go that route yet. My Spike’s buffer is crushed tungsten, so no clacking buffer weights. I don’t buy cheap springs, so I don’t have to worry about noise.
Gimmick buffer.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 I don’t know, I thought crushed tungsten was actually a good idea. I don’t like the clacking sound buffer weights make. Spikes has some cringey advertising, but they do make good stuff.
A5 H2, rifle length mil-spec recoil spring, mil-spec diameter A5 length tube. There are 3 types of buffers.
Saw Randy and immediately knew I can trust this guy. Learned most of what i know about Saltwater reef tanks from him back in the day.
Thanks! Always great to see salty shooters making their way to these videos eventually! 😅 -Randy
I thought I recognized Randy, that explains it 😂
I have a 8.5 that is way to gassy right of the bat. I went to the heaviest configuration with Odin (Heavy buffer + 1T+2S ) and still can’t get the 3 o’clock ejection pattern. I went ahead and got 2 more Tungsten weights and not overall weight is 7. something oz. If tomorrow I go to the range and is under gassed my next move ( original move to be honest) will be to add a suppressor.
You can also add an adjustable gas block. I would recommend looking at Wojtek Weaponry or Superlative Arms if you go with an adjustable gas block.
I bought a spike T3 buffer I installed it lotta gas in my face, but with no recoil so I ordered the T2 buffer and I think I might leave it at that. Haven’t shot it yet though, but it definitely helps the recoil
I have an LWRC IC A5. the buffer assembly works great and I'm reluctant to change it.
Have a Unbranded AR lower paired with and Aero upper. Had issues with the bolt coming back to fill battery. Just a hair behind where it needed to be but caused to not fire. Made sure to line it up good. Took a bit but now shoots fine. Guess it just needed to break in. Used white lithium grease on the spring and buffer and toned the twang down a bit too.
Great point about the grease and the twang that would've been a nice little tidbit in this one. I'd be willing to bet that the VAST majority of us, haven't put a spec of grease on their springs...and that it might be just enough to make annoying twangs manageable. (Unless you're into that kinda thing. Ha!)
If the gas port is correct for the barrel length, then a standard buffer weight and proper length spring is perfect in any semi auto.. Vltor mill spec receiver extensions are the only buffer tubes I will use. The A5 is not necessary or does it reduce recoil impulse. JP SCS are perfect for any semi auto..H2 or bigger are not needed for properly gassed rifles..
I run a VLTOR A5 buffer system combined with a Geissele Super 42 rifle spring, great for the money and haven't seen a better setup yet
Same here. A5h2 buffer to be exact.
$$$ basic bitch setup runs fine if you know your barrel and gas port.
anythign from VLTOR is amazing. I run my "battle rifle" with a VLTOR upper, lower, and buffer.
Geissele Super 42's in everything with H-2's. 4 o'clock pattern unless suppressed... I like those regular Springco blue springs too, never had a problem with those with a H-2 either. Geissele stuff just ......costs more, lol
Unfortunately all the greatest material things in life seem to have a hefty tag on them....but you know damn well I'm still gonna get that Polaris General one day! 😂
H2 and flat wire spring. Amazing combo for most 5.56 guns and 300 blk
Thank you!! This is what I was looking for.
@rexpepper2513 no problem. Took me a bunch of trial and error and research so glad I can help
Extremely helpful for the latest build I did which is a 7.5” barrel and correlating gas system. Couldn’t understand it’s trouble and am only recently enlightened by the buffer weight factor. Thank you for this perfect explanation !
Randy, I like you even more now that I've seen this. Had no idea you were both a reef guy and a gun guy. You've been such a staple of my reef hobby for so long and to see you hear, makes me smile.
Haha! After 16yrs of wearing the Army green business suite...guns were just a natural transition. 😆 Thanks for following along, it really means a lot.
Always loved the reef videos. One day I’ll pull the trigger on my first reef build.
I just took a break from drawing out how i want to design the stand for my 60 breeder reef tank build to sit back and watch some 2nd A content. My face when the video started out with Randy was like 👁️👄👁️ I thought there was a glitch in the matrix
I have the JP Enterprise buffer system I love it!
I have an 11.5” barrel, mid length gas system and an adjustable gas block. H1 tungsten buffer. No matter how much I open my gas block I can’t get the BCG to lock back on the last round but it will cycle and feed a new round. Last thing I can think of is my spring. It’s 39 coils and the spring seems much thicker than my other rifles spring that runs flawlessly.
I mean an 11.5” with mid length system is not really all that common and I’d assume would potentially have some dwell time issues. If no last round and you have an adjustable gas block, go down to a carbine (no tungsten weights) buffer first. If still no lock back, add the lighter spring and that should get you there. Which has block do you have and which barrel? Is it the Faxon?
@@Gnome-A-Tron thanks for the reply. I have a ballistic advantage barrel and a seekins precision AGB. I finally figured it out. I had a cheap buffer spring. The actual coil was twice the girth (he he) as any of my other coils. Swapped it out and it’s locking back!
@@dangeles95 nice! Can you drop the link for the BA barrel? Didn’t know they had a mid length 11.5”. Got me interested!
@@Gnome-A-Tron just checked and they aren’t selling any right now. I got it last Black Friday!
I need help.
To make a long story short, I built a rifle and embarrassingly bought a lower that came with a pistol grip. Swapped out the pistol grip with an adjustable stock and figured, "well, that was easy".
So... I take it to the range and the rifle doesn't cycle completely. It ejects the spent casing, but doesn't re-engage the trigger. Outside of ammo or magazine, I suspect it's because the buffer is too heavy or spring is too stiff as it was meant for something with a shorter barrel and higher pressure?
Ok, I got it backwards I think? I would need a heavy buffer?
Yes, heavy buffer like an H3 for short ARs like a 10.5. You may also want to check gas block alignment I had this same issue with a 20 inch build and I was able to fix it with an adjustable gas block.
@@At3tactical I did some more research. The bcg is going far enough back to eject casing and load a new round - so the hammer must be moving back into the position it needs to be in to lock down. So... it's gotta be something in the trigger assembly that's off. Springs are correct, though.
Im building a .300 Blk out and will be using a carbine tube and carbine spring, probably going to try a H3 weight unless other people have other recommendations
Your barrel length will likely help you decide. No suppressor yet, but the 7.5" .300BO gets the H3...knowing one is coming soon.
Nice video. I have two AR-15’s 18 and 20” barrels. Rifle length gas tube. Short cycling. I have carbine buffer tube, spring and weight. I am going to replace carbine buffer weight with a buffer weight of 2.75 oz. I’ve tried the JP Enterprise system as well. I am still evaluating my situation and will likely start over and look at each possible area that might be the culprit to include ammunition brand vs reloads. I could say more, but won’t bore everyone with the specifics.
I'd be willing to bet that the culprit might be the gas block and most likely that it is not aligned properly with the barrel gas port. You might see indications of gas leaks in that general area around the gas block (carbon buildup that looks forced outward)... but if not, it might be worth having someone look at it.
Not sure what gas block / barrel combo you're working with but in MOST cases where you're installing your own gas block on a barrel shoulder (gas block journal)... there should be about a credit card width of space between the gas block and the "shoulder". Most barrels have a hard stopping point where the gas block can't travel any further... that would be the "journal / shoulder"... a credit card distance off that point is about right 80% or more of the time.
Hopefully you get it figured out! Let us know where we can help.
@@At3tactical Thank you! Your correct on re-examining the gas block which is next. I suppose I was wanting to avoid that, but it appears this might be the case which I knew was a possibility and all likelihood the problem. One other area I am re-examining is undercharge cartridge which might be possible, but not likely.👍
@@georget7865 Roll up a piece of white paper, slide it inside the handguard, and fire off a few rounds to see if the paper is catching any blast. If so, the block could either be out of alignment or have an out of spec inside diameter, or worst case, the barrel diameter is.
If the paper checks clean-ish, then the gas port is likely too small.
Before checking the gas port size, make sure that you aren't using either a rifle spring or buffer inside of your carbine buffer tube.
Check that you aren't using an AR-10 spring or buffer inside of an AR-15 buffer tube.
Check that the inside of the buffer tube isn't being partially blocked by debris or machined incorrectly. If machined out of spec or mis-threaded during install, it may cause the bcg to bind, shortening it's travel.
Check the upper receiver itself. Poor milling can throw everything out of whack. This can be from misaligned cuts, narrow cuts, or even the upper itself being slightly crushed, causing it to squeeze the bcg, and thus either shorten or slow it's travel.
Check that the gas key is fully seated on the bcg.
Check that the gas tube is not crimped, blocked, or has a misaligned gas port hole.
@@WhiteDragonSecurity THANK YOU! I have been systematically going through every aspect of my rifle. I appreciate the advice and tips.
@@georget7865 Hope it helps. 👍
Ok, so regarding the JP silent buffer system. I’m building a 13.9” with a carbine length gas, and buffer tube extension. I’m really wanting to try the JP, can it just be dropped in and done? I saw another video where a shim may be needed, but other than that, slap it in and close it up?
If you are using a carbine length buffer tube you should be good to go.
@@At3tacticalappreciate it 👌🏼
I'm building a 6.5 Grendel 24 inch barrel with a rifle length gas system and I have standard AR 15 lower with a carbine tube and buffer, the question is with that barrel and gas system length can I remove the carbine tube and buffer and replace it with a rifle (A2) buffer tube and buffer?
I pretty sure I can but not certain and help would be great, thanks in advance.
Man, I'm so sorry this comment was off my radar. Garbage YT notifications. You are 100% right on thinking that. Don't forget the rifle length spring as well, but plenty of rifle length "kits" out there. I'd also consider adjustable gas, considering you're pretty stuck with the 5-ish oz of that rifle length buffer. Hope that was in time to help! -Randy
@@At3tactical thanks I appreciate it
Running a VLTOR A5 with a Sprinco "green" spring on a BCM 18'' rifle length gas upper. Super flat shooter with minimal felt recoil.
What weight buffer do you use?
I had any idea, while building an AR. To build a pneumatic cycling thingamadoodle / gizmo. An air compressor hose and trigger, you can quickly attach to your muzzle. This would blow a shot of air pressure, down the barrel (backwards) cycling the BCG, loading a fresh dummy round, and working the buffer weight and spring system. In hopes of tuning the guns cycling.
Well you'll need something that can go from zero to 58,000 PSI in a small fraction of a second. Seems non-trivial to me...not like you can just turn a valve on your shop compressor. Also, this part I'm less clear on but I'm not sure just pushing pressure down from the muzzle will operate like an actual shot.
I wish you would have talked about the two silent capture buffer spring assemblies under your left arm. I just picked up one of those it looks like the JP enterprises I just bought. Was hoping you would share some interesting tips.
Me too! Im a complete noob trying to learn as much as possible and Im losing my mind trying to figure out what the difference is with a silent capture buffer. Can someone please elaborate on this?! I saw them on the bench and thought "perfect! he is going to clear it up for me!" then he never mentions them 😭😭
Have a new psa lower and brass is flinging out in front of me. About to replace the standard buffer with an H1. Thanks for the video, it makes good sense of things for us getting started.
Glad to help!
is there calculations to size buffer based on various parameters as a starting point?
Not necessarily. Far too many variables to account for, but at the same time it's not necessarily complicated enough to warrant one. The large majority of 5.56 rifles will likely end up with an H2, but honestly unless someone was planning a non-traditional build (super short, suppressed, etc.), the $10-$15 more for an adjustable is probably the way to go.
How do I know what buffer I have in my rifle? Mine is chrome with a white plastic tip if that means anything
Really the only way to find out properly is by weighing it. A little kitchen scale works just fine.
@@At3tactical Windham Weaponry says it’s a carbine buffer. It weighs 4.8 ounces with th e spring on there. I don’t want to take the spring off cause it’s on good and I don’t want to screw it up. But if it’s 4.8 with the spring and WW is calling it a carbine buffer I’m guessing it’s probably the 3 ounce version
I have a Bushmaster 20 inch rifle. I replaced the front sight with a block rail. Replaced gas tube. I put on a Magpul solid But stock and attached a rail to the upper receiver. Since doing this. I cannot get it to cycle properly.
It never puts a round in the chamber. So then I replaced the entire bolt and bolt carrier. Based on modifications what do you suspect changed and is causing an issue.
I got an24 inch and i went the other direction. I changed my fixed stock and buffer to a magpul adjustable buttstock and tube. In doing so i had to change to a shorter spring and different buffer so basically im running a carbine buffer in my 24 inch barreled bushmaster. If u changed the gas tube maybe u seated it to far and choked it off. Is the action opening at all after u fire a round or does it go off and not cycle at all. I would think maybe your spring is to heavy and its keeping your buffer from cycling all the way back or did u not change the buffer and simply placed a longer heavier spring behind the buffer u had. The buffer and stock i took off looked exactly like the one he showed. It ran flawlessly that way for 3 years then i swapped to a carbine buffer with the adjustable stock and it still operated properly. Is it ejecting your spent casing and not picking up the next one or has it ever ran properly with that magazine. I noticed if put 30 rounds in a 30 rd mag the first rd is flat with the top where as u remove 1 and only have 29 that top one has a bit of a angle. Could be a bunch of things but id start with easiest like taking a couple bullet out the mag and trying again before u go tearing it apart to realize it was a mag problem if your mags were topped off at the time . But id check your gas tube make sure its clear if your action wont cycle to even eject if thats fine and it ejects a spent shell but wont grab the next id try a lighter spring. But if the gun has never functioned since u owned it id also check as u close the bolt if the bullet is even close to being touched by the bolt carrier or if it just slides over top and will never touch it no matter what u do short of miling the magwell. But if the mag locks it should be high enough for the carrier to grab. Try slapping the buffer from your other stock into it, the one u used prior to this stock maybe also the spring. If the carrier worked fine before i would not think it needed to replace the bolt carrier though they are pretty solid components might need cleaned but replaced prob not. I marked my gas tube before i removed it so i knew how deep to reinsert it into the gas block after i painted and dipped my gun. But if u pushed it to far in it would def close it off which might make it not open far enough to eject a shell or load a new one.. but filling a mag all the way has def caused my gun not to grab the next round
16” Noveske N4 Mid Length
“G” Super 42 H2 buffer and spring
Full M16 Carrier
Perfect 4 o’clock ejection with Green Tip
Like butter...!
I just built a retro M16 Dissipator (A1 fixed stock, A1upper, 16.5" barrel, rifle length gas tube, triangle handguards, and FSB). It would not fully cycle, so I tried using a lightweight BCG, but it still wouldn't cycle. I then swapped out the 5.6 ounce rifle buffer with a 3 ounce carbine buffer. Now it runs like a champ with either the standard BCG or lightweight BCG. I haven't seen any signs of excessive recoil, but I may pick up a 4.6 ounce buffer and see if it works.
Just a word of warning. As I'm sure you know, the carbine buffer is not as long as the rifle buffer. This means the carbine buffer can move further back into a rifle length extension. Ideally, the bolt face will travel only about a half inch past the bolt stop. If it travels further, then that (like it would with a carbine buffer in a rifle length tube) then the bcg will get a "run" on the forward stroke and slam into the bolt stop harder. This could break the bolt stop. Also, your probably ramming the back of your carrier key into the lower receiver where the buffer threads in. This is bad for the carrier key and your lower. You need to do one of two things. Either find a lighter weight rifle length buffer (or spring), or add some kind of spacer to make up the missing length.
@@wesleyroberts7119 I had considered this possibility, but have seen no signs of impact. This doesn't mean it hasn't happened or can't happen over time, but I don't know of any practical way to confirm this is an issue in my Dissipator. I did install a heavier 4.6 ounce CAR buffer and it still works fine. Since the carbine buffer I'm using can theoretically compress 6.4" instead of 3.8", I have considered several alternatives. The first one is to install a carbine length spring and CAR buffer over a 2.6" spacer so that maximum BCG movement is 3.8". I have also looked at using a lightweight A2 buffer, but they are rather pricey. As an alternative I am thinking of removing a weight from an A2 buffer and installing a plastic or aluminum filler.
@@wesleyroberts7119 I just modified an A2 buffer by removing one of the weights and replacing it with a nylon insert that I made on my lathe. This brought the total weight down to 3.7 ounces. The Dissipator functioned flawlessly with it and it's very light recoiling. This should resolve any potential issues with the BCG or bolt stop.
I have carbine length stock with a h2 buffer won’t fire
It the gun is not firing it is most likely not the buffer system. Check the BCG or hammer spring.
A properly gassed barrel, rather 10.3” or 16” (and everything between) will run great with an H2 and standard Carbine spring. Assuming quality, standard pressure to 5.56 pressure ammo used.
exactly. everyone always messes with weights forever instead of an adjustable gas block... so simple.
Just put an h2 in my alex pro 14.5 w tubbs flat wire spring. The gun quite literally thanked me for putting a heavier buffer in
So much easily digestible information in this video. Thank you!
Thanks! Glad to help.
I agree ! Well stated videos ! :D
So getting a carbine length spring and H2 on my ar10 with a 20” barrel isn’t the right size?
That should work.
Hey didn’t you use to work for BRS
Found me! Glad to see you here! -Randy
Would love to see you guys do an updated video including the a5 systems, showing ejection patterns with different buffer weights and springs, with and without suppressors. Great video!
Thanks for the feedback
This a great breakdown of it all. Glad i found your channel. I'm in the middle of buying parts for a 20" AR rifle build and this is what i was looking for. Thanks for running us through it.
Awesome, glad that these are helping out the way we hoped. Thanks for the kudos! -Randy
@@At3tactical Absolutely. I was an instructor for several years of my Air Force career and I appreciate the value of focused and concise delivery of correct and useful information. The high production value and clearly organized flow of your video don't happen by accident so I wanted to thank you for your efforts. Best of luck with your business and TH-cam endeavors. I'll be checking out AT3 Tactical for my firearms needs because of this video.
I recently added the geisele super 42 spring and buffer on my M&P Sport 2 and now I can't use 223.
Does it fail to extract altogether? It's possible that may be a gas issue, especially if it's short stroking with a H1 buffer weight.
what's the vantage or disadvantages of a commercial buffer tube
Most stocks are made for mil-spec buffer tubes.
@@At3tactical thanks
Had a 16 inch in 9mm and i can tell you that the spring can make you scratch your head trying to back a high speed bcg down tryed buffer after buffer and was still setting the projectile back hard in the case changed the spring and all good
Does commercial & milspec tubes matter when it comes to carbine springs & weights?
No the internal parts are the same. www.at3tactical.com/blogs/news/mil-spec-vs-commercial-buffer-tubes-stocks-what-s-the-difference
Is there a link to missing episodes?
rumble.com/v1ugnwi-ep-8-billet-forged-completed-or-stripped-lower-receivers-your-ar-15s-most-c.html
My favorite rifle is a 16" mid length gas tube with a rifle buffer and tube with a braided spring. It's the smoothest shooting ar that I've shot and I've yet to have it malfunction.
The way 5.56 was intended! Lol
Best video I've seen yet on this. I'm dealing with 2 builds from scratch.
1. 16" 5.56 / .223 that feeds and extracts but no LRBHO ( I do need to try a different mag, only had 1 at the range during cherry pop time )
2. 10.5" 5.56 / .223 that fails to feed and sometimes extracts ( potential gas block issues - unconfirmed)
I am relatively new to all this. Please keep making the highly informative videos. Stay Rad. Stay safe!
Thanks for checking us out! From the sounds of it both seem to be undergassed, which I would start troubleshooting first at the gas block alignment.
One of the most common issues with builds is the placement of the gas block. Many builders just shove the gas block right up against the shoulder on the barrel, when it typically needs about a credit card width of space off the shoulder for proper alignment. Not doing this can restrict enough gas from going back to your BCG to cause it to short stroke.
If that turns out to not be your issue, you could look into swapping out the buffers to the next lightest weight. (I.e.- From H2 to H). Hope that helps! You can always give us a call or send in an email as well. We're happy to help!
I ordered all the parts i needed to build 2 ARs the same length as you’d at the same time.. I didn’t make it far before I just took them both to a gun smith.
Good luck doggie
Barrel length and gas port size and length mean way more than this bs. You're starting at the wrong end.
I have a 5" micro 7.62 AR , and want to know which buffer and spring should I use???
ArmaLite M15 - hydraulic buffer, Tubb flatwire, Tubb carrier weight system - negligible recoil and no feed problems amazing setup
Any 5.56 carbine gas negligible recoil…
This Guy does an Exceptionally Great Tutorial...Very well planned out...Should be the "Gold Standard"
Thanks
I have a folding butt stock Emtan M4-FRB what is the size of buffer assembly
Many thanks for the great video.
Would you mind sharing some knowledge on the „captured spring“ buffer that you had on display? Many thanks
I believe you're talking about the Armaspec Sound Mitigation Buffer and Stealth Recoil Spring. In which case, those are both designed to reduce noise inside the buffer tube...we're talking mostly about the sound of the spring on aluminum as it travels and that common "twang" you hear with standard single wire MilSpec buffer springs. They accomplish that by having the buffer weight ride on a "piston rod" type of operation, which supposedly not only allows truer centerline travel inside the buffer tube, but allows them to put a completely different spring around the "piston rod" to accomplish that "Sound Mitigation".
Hope that helps!
What would happen if I used a hydraulic buffer designed for an ar 9 conversion ar 15 on a 556 ar 15 carbine?
I sped through the review but I don't think you dove into the A5 extension tube or combos at all for carbines???? You touched on a fixed rifle stock with a rifle length system but what alot of guys are using is the A5 Vltor or the BCM MK2 A5 buffer set up on thier carbines
I have 3 cals. 556, 7.62, and 50 beowulf, what buffer can I use to work well in all 3?
i am changing from rifle length tube to a carbine. stag 3g rifle. 18 in for the 556. 16 in for the ak 762 and 50 beowulf.
or should i stay with rifle buffer? it has a H1 rifle buffer in it now. im looking to create nice flat shooter.
Great video! What do you prefer, silicone or stainless steel buffer springs? Thanks!
AT3 Tactical Flat Wire AR-15 Buffer Spring
@@At3tactical, thanks!
i wonder if they make a ribbed buffer weight... for the guns pleasure
😲
I’m surprised there wasn’t a mention of capture springs like JP
Is there any heavy buffer options for rifle length (A2 length) buffer tubes?
What buffer should i use with a piston system like an arak or a wolf a1??
I replaced my collapsible stock with a UTG A1 military stock. It came with the correct tube, spring and buffet weight. My AR15 cycles perfectly and have no issues after over 2,000 rounds. If you convert, get a complete kit. Don’t mix and match.
Just curious: why would you want to downgrade to a fixed stock?
So when you have the right buffer weight, what do you do?
What happened to episode 8? Is there one?
Yeah, that one got us in trouble a couple times on YT. Luckily we have it in the AR-15 Guide playlist at the AT3 Knowledge Center. content.at3tactical.com/
Thanks @@At3tactical
Great video, I’ve used my suppressor on my bolt action .223s but today was the first time on my PSA A2 with a fixed stock. Shot five rounds and it felt like the buffer was going to blow out the back. There’s a ton of info on carbine buffers but not so much on rifle length buffers. Is the answer adding tungston weights to your stock buffer or could you recommend one that I could get to tame this beast. Thanks for this whole series. Subscribed
Thanks so much for the compliment. It honestly means a lot for the effort and time we put into these. Glad you're on board! 💪
Adjustable gas block with braided, spring and heavy buffer. I would assume this would get the most pleasant shooting experience?
I have a 7.5” .300blk that i plan to run subs and suppressor. My best bet would be the H3 buffer then?
H2
Any chance you can make the two hidden videos to this series available to see? Ep-8 and I'm assuming Ep-17 ?.
Hey! Sorry about that. Ep-8 was a double slap on the wrist from big-bro YT... so we have it on our content site below. Ep-17 is still in the works... We got excited to launch our AR-10 Miniseries & Giveaway that we put the AR-15 Series on pause for a brief moment. Not to worry, we'll be back on that hog in no time! content.at3tactical.com/
@@At3tactical awesome! thank you !
@@At3tactical only thing i cant find ep-8 on the website. can i have the subject title or link if possible ?
@@thesanfordmethod1905 Ahh, sorry about that. Ultimately that Ep-8 will end up on our content site, but for it looks like the issue was trying to use a Rumble link... Anywho, enough inside baseball.... Your Link, Sir!
rumble.com/v1ugnwi-ep-8-billet-forged-completed-or-stripped-lower-receivers-your-ar-15s-most-c.html?mref=11fu27&mc=f3b2w
@@At3tactical Thank you so much ! I will certainly like all these pages and subscribe if I haven't already. So in total presently there are 16 episodes? I ask because somewhere on the mix I read "over 20 episodes", this is a great series, I'd like to see them all. Thanks again ! :D (oh I just answered my own question, you mentioned you're working on Ep-17, me dumb.. Lol ).
Dang. I knew most of this but I still watched the whole thing. Very well explained and kept it interesting.
Bcm has a buffer system chart.
Thanks, I just found your channel. I kind of settled on H2 for all my ARs.
Should I concern myself with spring diameter since my rifle has a commercial buffer tube? I have found conflicting advise online, I would really like an honest answer on this topic.
Not at all. I'd venture to bet that a spring diameter conversation has popped up in multiple conversations, but at the end of the day the VAST majority of the industry stay pretty close to a similar diameter. Are there variances of diameter out there? Are they worth chasing down and worrying if it's right? I know it's not a concern I have, so for me that answer is no.
Thanks for chiming in! -Randy
Great video guys. Thank you. It’s amazing to me how nobody seems to really have an answer for most firearm spec issues. So much nonsense in the industry. Personal preference and people just trying to make the most money with the least about of knowledge and effort. Again, I appreciate this video more that I can explain.
Glad to help 👍
Geissele Super 42 spring and proprietary H2 buffer makes my 16" mid-length rifle shoot like a dream. Very light recoil, cycles perfectly, and definitely no spring twang. I also purchased a spare tungsten weight in case I needed it, but it turns out it's perfect as it is. I mentioned proprietary buffer as the spring won't slip over the shoulder on a standard buffer due to it's decreased inside diameter. Since the spring is built to last, it should be the last spring/buffer set I'll ever need to purchase.
Those Geissele folks sure knocked it out of the park on those! Appreciate your first hand experience.
@@At3tactical My pleasure!!!
Do you know if a 20" rifle too long for that Super 42?
G makes a Super 42 rifle spring just for the rifle extension tube.
@@dougsnavely847 depends on manufacturers QC, on mine it was fine until i ran steel case.
What would you suggest for an ar 47
I'm tryin to put a rifle length buffer assembly on a ar15 that comes with a carbine buffer assembly can it replace the carbine buffer assembly or nah?
Geissele braided in my DDM4
Nice
I listened to my friend who ended up not knowing Jack shit, and bought different things to build my AR. It's built, but only good for one shot. It fails to eject/feed. I have a 20" barrel, rifle-length gas system, with a carbine buffer tube. Is there any fixing that? Or do I need to get a different extension, buffer spring, and buffer?
Thanks for any help.
Did u lose your retaining pin for your buffer.? Should be when u open the back of ar and u can look inside at your buffer tube where its threaded in should be sitting above a recessed pin that keeps the buffer system from going past that point. Your buffer tube should have like half a thread over lapping to keep it from popping out when u open your lower and upper from the rear. I know i lost that pin and it became a 1 shot until i bought a parts kit to replace that little tit and spring. If u didnt know maybe u didnt place it in. I got a 24 inch barrel bushmaster and replaced the fixed stock with a carbine stock and buffer so i could adjust it. Never had an issue but u lose or dont put that little recesed pin in when u screw your buffer tube in your gun wont operate but 1 shot at a time. It could be a gas problem but if u forgot that spring a buffer retainer could be same problem that buffer spring should stay put when u seperate upper from lower. If its not then thats the prob.
Is there a difference in the tension of New carbine Springs? I have a brand new Ruger 556 and man is that spring strong. I haven’t even shot it yet, I’m worried that the spring is way too strong by itself. Great video. Thank you.
New springs can be strong but as long as the gun runs you should be fine.
Alright, I'm at a loss here.
I've got a rifle-length buffer weight + rifle-length buffer spring + rifle-length buffer tube in an M16A2-style fixed stock... the BCG cannot travel rearward to clear the magazine well.
It's gotta be something obvious that I'm missing
So a H-3 for a .300 8.5 barrel length ??
Would you recommend the heavier H3 buffer for a AR10 .308/7.62x51 build, or stay with the conventional H2 in a Carbine length buffer?
The .308 vs. 5.56 buffer systems are a little bit confusing, which is why we are also kicking off an AR10 Build Series specific to addressing info like this. That said, the biggest difference between the two are the buffer weights and springs. They are not interchangeable. (AR10 Buffer Weights and Springs are shorter than AR15 weights/springs)
So, there are a few options out there to make it easier like the Aero Precision AR10 .308 Carbine Buffer Tube Kit (which ONLY comes with a 3.8oz buffer weight), or you can mix and match your weight and spring (likely the ideal choice). The Aero AR10 spring is plenty good, but the weight of choice for us would be the Odin Works Adjustable AR10 Buffer Weight... so you're not pigeon-holed into that lighter 3.8oz only. From there, it's a matter of dialing in the correct weight for your specific gas system length, cartridge load, etc... but with the adjustable weight, easy peasy.
Hope that helps!
Trying to diagnose a FN rifle here. Not a consistent issue but enough for concern. Will fire and eject but won’t pick up the next round. I am trying to do like a C7A2 setup so it’s on a carbine lower. Tried multiple buffers and while the H2 seemed to work best it will still have issues feeding here and there. Is this a buffer/spring issue or possibly gas issue?
I've run into that issue with some 7.62x39 builds, not enough gas, had to open up gas hole in barrel. I took small steps, until it cycled properly. Did not need adjustable gas block.
Good video, but what about 7.62 X 39 mm round and 9mm X 19mm rounds in 16 1/4 barrels. Or the other more exotic like.308 and. .300 black out .and .458 Socom and .MGI's Hydra (multi Caliber) platforms ?
Just the 5.56/.223 basics for this AR15 series, but don't worry we're not done yet. I believe we might see an AR10, AR9, and other miniseries after this one is over.💪
What would be the best buffer/spring combo for a binary trigger (Franklin Armory)?
I'm a big fan of the armaspec H2! You can remove the buffer retaining pin with a captured buffer, and that pin is a serious failure point of the AR15. It's not expensive, it's smooth, and it make your gun more reliable.
Great video and great explanation
Appreciate that!
Why didn't you include the Vltor A5 system buffers and tube? That's the best way to go, hands-down, if you run an adjustable-length buttstock.
Just scraping the surface this time around. We've got a TON of videos still on the horizon and we'll come back around to pickup questions like these. :)
I bought a PSA 10.5 inch AR pistol….it came with Magpul brace that has 3 positions on the buffer tube….in anticipation of the new BS ATF pistol brace rule I bought a PSA 16 inch upper and I replaced the brace with a regular buttstock….Hogue buttstock….still has the original buffer and spring that came with the pistol….do you think it’ll shoot ok? I haven’t had a chance to take it to the range yet but I was wondering if I would need to change the buffer weight or tube or spring or nothing at all
The range is the best way to find out for sure, but in prep you could weigh your current buffer weight to get an idea of what it is. (Most likely it's an H2, but could be H3 due to the short length. Whatever PSA uses.). If it's an H2, you're probably going to cycle just fine while H3 might short stroke due to weight. If it is a H2 and it you find it failing to extract or feed, pick up a H1 and call it a day. 💪
Out of curiosity why has episode 8 and another been removed?... Love your videos...very informative and cut straight to the basics...
Yeah, that episode got us in a little hot water with YT. Luckily they've come around a bit on legal 2A content, but still fighting the good fight with episode #8. BUT..... we have it posted on our AT3 Knowledge Center. content.at3tactical.com/
@@At3tactical awesome... Appreciate it... Keep up the good work.
The m-16 I had in basic training sounded like Tigger bouncing around on his tail. The first time I shot a well kept AR-15 I thought it was broken because I couldn't hear the spring.
Get ADJUSTABLE gas block $20...all problems within the range of silencer or 10"+ barrel solved easily -- and with less recoil & barrel-rise then changing the buffer. Flatwire spring also important so u are 20x less likely to have a "single shot rifle" SUDDENLY during CQB. Adj gasblock & flatwire are STANDARD upgrades on all semi-auto rifles or family has.
How could u not have the extra $10 for each?? Given what they do... And no more replacing those $3 "standard" springs means the flatwire PAYS FOR ITSELF, ANYWAY. The reduced wear of adjustable gas also eventually pays itself...
Ordering my first ar pistol. 300 blackout m4e1 from Aero precision upper. Will that work with my h3buffer BCM kit? I noticed it said “rifle spring”
Which one should I use for a piston 11.5 rifle?
H3 buffer is recommended.
Would have liked to see the A5 system included in this...
It's not over yet. ;) Lot's more, short, fast videos on the way to round out the entire series. I'm certain we'll cover this.
@@At3tactical That would be delightful. 😊
AT3 what do you recommend for a 20” 1/7 twist barrels for a SPR with use of a old school gas block. TIA
Randy saying corals instead of corals made me smile….. and miss him even more
🤣
Is he dead?
🤣 Haha! Nope, not dead. Just changed industries for TH-cam video topics. I once taught folks how to keep a monkey alive in space...well, almost like that. Keeping ocean critters alive in a tank at your house, which is pretty damn tough!
So then tell me why my brand new Geissele 11.5in upper shooting 5.56 wont lock a bolt to the rear on the last round in the mag. Then when I switch to .223 it wont even eject the round, but when I shoot suppressed the gun runs like butter. I say it's undergassed, but everyone has told me that I am crazy considering it's a brand new Geissele. H1 buffer with their super 42 spring.
Do you have an adjustable gas block?
So… building an SPR in 18 inch w/ 1:8 twist. Shooting the 77gr SMK BTHP.
Any suggestions on a spring and buffer assembly? I am doing a rifle length gas (adjustable) with a carbine butt stock.
You will want an H3 it should be approximately 5.4 ounces. bit.ly/3T7wauL
@@At3tactical appreciate it
best explanation out there, awesome job!
Glad you think so!
Great info. Just came from your bcg video. Another great one! Been learning and scheming. All great stuff for a buy once cry once shtf self defense goals.
Glad to help.