As a lightly skilled DIY mechanic (I have a professional friend, that's the only reason) and as someone on the verge of getting a Boxster, I just wanted to say THANK YOU. Your content is awesome, to the point, and informative.
Hi Jeff & Others, just did another Major Service on my 2.7 981 Cayman. Full Inspection, Wheels Off, Engine Oil & Filter, Spark Plugs, Brake Fluid Flush and this time the Gear/Diff Oil. I had trouble finding the quantity needed to do the Diff so drained & measured. I got 2.25 litres out and that's what went in, Nulon 75W-90 squeeze packs. The PDK fluid was replaced at the last service following your instructions to the letter. Many thanks to you as your video helped heaps...again. Gear/Diff oil quantity 2.25 litres of 75W-90.
Awesome stuff man, great to see videos of how to maintain these cars. It seems like barely anyone makes videos on it, coming from a BMW community, there's a video and instructions for just about everything and a really broad after market. I just got a 981 Cayman and I like to do self service as well. Its just that not many people are out there making videos on it let alone good detailed videos like you. Don't stop : )
New 981 owner and been DIY'ing many different things on my various Mercedes (W203 and now S205), your videos are awesome and great reference tool to know about the challenges and tips in dealing with a mid engine car. Job well done! Hello for Canada
Your videos are great! THANKS! One thing people don't talk about is that you need to pull the air filters towards the center of the car, not straight back. Makes a huge difference!
Thanks for the instruction. Porsche dealer quoted $600 for oil change and $700 for air filter change on my 718 Spyder. Did oil change for about $70 and air filter for $95 using oem filters. Took me about 1 hr for oil change and 3 hours for air filter change. Dealer rate is $300hr. Switching out air filter was PIA. Feels like they made it over complicated so people need to take it to dealership for maintenance. Air filter change on my other cars take about 3 min.
Hiya, great video thanks. I've brought a PDK service kit from a Porsche specialist website, the service kit comes with a replacement PDK pan (housing the filter). They supply 5L of oil for the PDK Clutch and 3L for the PDK gearbox. I don't think you mentioned the amount of oil required. Hopefully this sounds about right? Thx
Have you ever made a list of all the tools needed for the service in this video? It would be great to build a Porsche kit of tools for full service. I could keep that handy for each time I service my 981 rather than having to dig out each tool every time.
Hi jeff ! Very useful information in there ! If I am not mistaken you do not discussed why you did not replace the PDK pan/filter. It's by far the most expensive bit so I am very much inerested in your comment about this choice. Thanks in advance !
The filter is a very coarse fibrous type that is designed to last for the transmission lifetime and will only catch really large bits. It's the same filter type that is used on a standard auto. I used to change them regularly but when cutting them open they were always empty. The wear particles in the clutch section will be either ferrous and caught by the magnets in the pan, or they are from the friction disks. These will continue to circulate in the fluid and not be caught by the filter. I have recently revived an old E36 BMW with 360,000 km on the clock. I did a full transmission service including the filter. The oil was like grey soup with none of the material in this being caught by the filter, and the magnet in the pan was thick with ferrous sludge. I cut open the filter to see what was inside. I counted 6 tiny pieces of metal in the filter in total, so it was basically empty. Don't know if it was the original filter, but it had certainly been in there for a long time. For me changing the fluid regularly is really important for a whole raft of reasons, but the filter is in my opinion a waste of time.
What a superb video…fanbloodytastic 👍 One thing though, I have seen people pouring fresh oil into the filter pot prior to refitting it rather than doing the fuse pulling and priming process…I can’t offer any guidance as to whether that process or Jeff’s process is the way to go…Great vid Jeff
The way I do it is a bog standard way of priming the engine. Attempting to fill the pot is messy and won't fill in the other places where the oil has drained like the draw tube etc.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiyjust watched the video. Saw you explained pulling the fourth fuse. Was there a second fuse to pull also? Or just the one you described? Thanks
@@marcosvaldes8910 You pull the fuel pump fuse in the cabin to stop the engine by removing fuel pressure. For the priming you leave the fuel pump fuse out, but also pull the ignition fuse in the rear luggage compartment. In this way you have neither spark or fuel for the priming. No chance of ignition and also there isn't fuel being sprayed into the cylinders, which you don't want as this will wash the oil off the cylinder walls.
Hi Jeff, I wanted to ask if there’s a difference in the gear fluid drain plug location between left-hand and right-hand drive vehicles. I’ve gone through some workshop manuals, but the diagrams seem inconsistent with your car and mine in terms of plugs position. Some manuals are labeled for the 981, but the layout appears more like the 911. I’m lost.😢 Would appreciate your expert insight on this!
There's no difference between left and right hand drive cars. Drive train for both is identical. Gear fluid plugs are the same location as shown in the vid for any Boxster or Cayman. 911 is different as the transmission is a near mirror image.
Just changed my oil and filter before storing the car for the winter (Canada) and wasn’t aware about pulling the fuel pump fuse. However everything went smoothly and restarted the car without incident and got a correct level reading after warmup. How crucial is having negative fuel pressure while performing this service? And what are the consequences if something goes wrong?
If you pull the ignition fuse only, the car will crank and prime as shown in the video. The reason I remove the fuel pressure is to not have fuel sprayed into the cylinder during the priming process. With the fuel pump fuse pulled, there will still be residual fuel pressure. I don't want fuel sprayed in as it can wash the cylinder walls. I want everything fully lubed when it fires the first time.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Jeff, this video is fantastic. I didn't know about not having to change the PDK filter, just the fluid. Makes the job way easier and way less daunting. Regarding pulling the fuses, (and I defer to you - you've likely forgotten more than I'll ever know about this), are we sure this is necessary or are you just being extra careful? I've never opened up a Porsche engine but I've had lots of high performance motorcycle engines apart (12K rpm redlines) and the engines are still well lubricated with the oil drained. There's a slight delay before oil pressure is up at re-start but it's by no means a "dry" start. I know that Porsche dealers do not pull the fuses and prime as you do. But again, I'm not challenging you, just want to hear more about why you do it. Thanks man, please keep up the good work.
@@Rockt-p6m A couple of reasons. I've always hated the metal on metal rattling for a few seconds on that first start after an oil change so I've always done this on my cars to stop it. I've also come across some good info recently that showed there is an increase in wear particles in the oil sample if this isn't done (same thing as not pre filling a spin on filter) prior to the first start. Worse with thinner oils, which the Porsche doesn't use, so I might be overly cautious. Thicker oils seem to cling to components and protect on that first 'dry' start, so I don't think it's a big ticket item. It just makes me feel better though.
Wouldn't pulling the fuel pump fuse cause the high pressure pump to run dry? I remember reading somewhere that running the HPFP dry can cause premature failure.
Definitely won't run dry. It's also a type of HPFP that has it's own oil supply and doesn't use the fuel for lubrication. This method of running down the fuel pressure is the procedure in the workshop manual.
Hi Jeff, just pulled the rear boot lining out, I now has a plastic black rectangle frame that fell from the very rear, behind the carpet 🙁 I don’t know where it goes😏 lol. If I could send a pic, I would.
The only thing I can think of is they don't way fluid to get in the gap between the pan and housing that might then come out later and look like a leak. It says to do this in the workshop manual, but having now done this procedure numerous times I don't bother any more as I don't think it serves much purpose.
Ok, so clutch fluid done Jeff. Thanks so much, I feel a lot more confident to do this again after following your instructions and all went well. I bought 4 litres per your suggestion and used 3.6-3-7 litres, so perfect (car cold, fill plug removed and no oil dribble, so it may have been a little low) I have a little left to top up if needed. To my knowledge this is the first clutch oil change since the car was new in 2013. Next is the gear oil, so here we go again, how much should I buy? I’m going for Motul GL-5 SAE 75W-90 I will now use your ideas for drain splash minimizing. Cheers! Barrie
The total it takes is a tiny bit under 3L, I think 2.95L is the spec. You won't get all of this out, maybe 2.5L. I'd have 3L on hand. I personally buy the fluid in 20L drums, as it makes it a lot cheaper and I do it regularly. The 75W-90 goes in all of my cars be that a diff or transmission. Just confirm your comment on the cold and no dribble was with the engine running? If the engine is stopped it should flow out with a good gush. If the engine is dead cold and engine running with the fill plug removed, you should be able to see the fluid through the fill hole if you shine a light down there. If not then it's probably low. The expansion of the fluid is minimal from cold to 40C, which is where the correct level is determined. I'm assuming the cold temp of the fluid when you checked wasn't -20C or some crazy cold temp.
PDK clutch fluid. Car level, engine not running and cold, around 20c. No dribble, could not see oil. Drained and pan “tube” siphoned then left overnight. Total 2.9 ltrs of old oil removed. Drain plug back, refill to dribble (engine not running). Run engine, temp (IR) to 40c. Topped up until good dribble flow, replaced fill plug and torqued. Remaining fluid from 4 ltrs is 600ml, so 3.4 ltrs added less some wastage (left in the syphon pump/spillage etc.) I estimate 3.3ltrs went back in. So 2.9 out, 3.3 back in. Does that sound ok or possible overfill? Would 400ml additional oil cause a problem? I’ve not driven the car yet so I could drain a little. Thank you.
It sounds like it was a little low prior to the fluid change and you have now corrected it. If it was a dribble with the engine running at 40C that is the correct level, and it makes sense that you needed to put some more in. I'm a little concerned why the level was low to start with. There is a possibility you have an internal leak from one chamber to the other. If you haven't drained the gear oil yet, I would remove the fill plug first, to see if this chamber has too much fluid. There should be a very slight dribble at most when removed. For this the engine doesn't need to be running.
Thanks Jeff, I will be attacking the transmission gear oil next week. I will do as you say and double check the level when the fill plug is removed. Thinking back, it was quite a strong dribble/flow when I was topping up so it’s possible I slightly overfilled. Should I run the engine and PDF fluid back up to 40c and let any overflow out or will a little extra not cause a problem? Sorry to hassle but I trust you and I just need a bit of support doing this for the first time.
@@len333p I wouldn't be concerned. I little bit too much, if indeed it is, won't be an issue at all. It's only if it's seriously over filled that it would be an issue.
Hey Jeff, do you know where the oil level sensor is on the 981? Have an odd issue with oil level reading. Also do you know what the mm oil levels are supposed to be when checking with a scan tool? thanks
Sensor is the black thing at the center/rear of the pan with 3 screws. Needs to be changed with the oil drained. I've looked before at the mm and not taken much notice because it changed quite a bit with temperature and didn't seem to be a good indication of oil level unless you had a temp v's level table. What indications do you have?
had an odd issue. I owned the car for 3 years, have done all the oil changes myself with exactly 8qt of oil (US). That always put me exactly in the middle of the oil level on the gauge. never in the three years has the oil level changed. until two weeks ago. I was driving the warning come on that I had too much oil (not possible only put in 8qt, a month prior and with 300 miles driving). When I stopped at a gas station to fill up, the level lowered itself to exactly the top good level and has been there ever since. At first I thought maybe it's the coolant that go into the oil. checked the coolant - not missing a drop. Thinking the oil sensor might be acting up. A scantool shows 65.250 mm. @@jeffrichardsoncardiy
Not on that specifically, but the method is the same as any other. Have a look at the intake manifold video I did for how to remove the TB. th-cam.com/video/HqPPPF_zin0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=B4XjXZYKuX-MzI4f
@@ryanlim0111 I just want to confirm. Don't put gear oil mentioned above in the clutch section. You will kill the transmission. You are probably all over it, but I just wanted to check.
Thanks Jeff, good video. I’m new to the 981 Porsche and looking to service the PDK/DSG and the Clutch and Diff oils. Would be good if you could have added what oils you used as they seem to be a secret. Also could you clear up for me that the Clutch and Diff are in one and use the same oil? Quantities also would help… asking too much?
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thanks Jeff, can't believe you have gone to so much trouble with you Porsche videos to help others. I will now replace the PDK/Clutch fluid when I get a chance using the Nulon fluid, the Diff can wait. For a DYI guy you look very well set-up, wish I had a hoist but manage. So far have done 2 oil changes and replaced the Spark Plugs... not easy! Thank you again from myself and the other Porsche 981 owners.
Jeff thank you so much for putting this together. Do you think this would work for a 2019 991.2 Turbo S? I have an AccessPort, so I Can monitor the fluid temp. Also, do I need to do both clutch and gear? Or is clutch good enough? I only have 14000 miles on it. Thank you in advance for your help.
If the question is regarding the PDK fluid changes there should be no difference. I'm not familiar with the 991.2, but I'm assuming it's still the 7 speed PDK and not the 8 speed like in the 992. The 7 speed setup is close to identical except a mirror image, so the same procedure applies. I change the gear oil every 10,000 km, along with the clutch fluid. Overkill, but there's so little fluid and it's a simple procedure so I do it. Objectively the gear oil doesn't need to be done as often as the clutch fluid. When changing the gear fluid you are able to remove about 90% of it, but you will only drain about 60% of the clutch fluid. The clutch area of the transmission is much more important for fluid changes, so to keep good fluid in there the changes need to be done more often.
You are correct that normally an active carbon filter shouldn't be washed, but I'm talking from my own perspective. The car is a convertible, the roof is off 99% of the time, and I live in a place where the air is clean with zero pollution. I just want to filter the debris that would otherwise end up in the heater core/evaporator on the few occasions where the a/c fan is blowing.
Just done another 5,000 kms oil/filter change and followed your instructions precisely Jeff. No issues at all. One question.. do you need to pull the fuel pump fuse or could you just pull the ignition fuse?
I don't want any fuel going into the cylinder when cranking. Otherwise it will put fuel in the exhaust and also wash down the cylinder walls and remove the oil, which is something that is considered undesirable.
Hi Jeff. Any idea where all of the change over valves are on the 981? I have a pesty coolent light that wont go away. (Non PSE base car with PDK). Regards, Tyson from Adelaide.
G'day Tyson. Two on the PDK and one for the heater core. This video shows both PDK valves th-cam.com/video/vf4V15LggzQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=znBrZ4ghMAQ27Wzm This video shows the heater core valve th-cam.com/video/NN1wJ6s1O3I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jdhYOOX3CkJrNxx8&t=352
@jeffrichardsoncardiy thanks for the fast reply! Lets hope the two on top of the transmission are accessible without dropping the trans. But yeah. That nails 3 COV locations. I wonder how many others there are.
@@ForgetfulFoot I forgot about the big one that is on the front of the engine. Video here explains how the entire cooling system works. Later on in the vid it shows where this valve is. th-cam.com/video/OvUjpMgN1yk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=b32s_aLgvR2b7mfs&t=864
Tyson, have you put the diagnostics on the car? This should normally pinpoint where the problem is rather than simply seeing a generic 'coolant fault' message on the MFD.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Buik Motorsports in Adelaide hooked it up to a PIWIS and it only showed a vacuum fault on the computer. It didn't give the specifics on which COV was at fault. Looking online across forum posts etc. Some people say that you can get a specific indication of which one failed via PIWIS. Others say you just get a generic vacuum fault. Bit annoying.
I called pentonsin and they said the FFL-3 Fluid they make is the equivalent of a 75w-80 GL-4 rather than a 75W-90 GL-5 and that the fluid is used on everything from transfer cases to differentials to drive gears and the clutch pack. My main dealer assured me the fluids are different (trans and differential) but the fill point seems to be the same. Another dealer said the fluid is the same for everything. There's also a mystery drain plug on the drivers side (LHD) above the clutch pack fill my parts catalog and the dealers part catalog do not recognize its existence but they knew what I was talking about. My main dealer said however they don't do this job often and that they were also kind of scrambling for information. I'm just going to do what you did, the transmission is way past due for a change at this point too (80K miles)
It has always amazed me the lack of information about the PDK transmission from those people who you would assume would know. It's like some mystery box that Porsche has successfully put a shroud of secrecy around. I can guarantee you the information I've provided is straight out of the workshop manual. My transmission, as well as many others would have failed a long time ago if the information was incorrect.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Yea the dealer who said the fluids were different sent me a copy of WM of how to do the "final drive" drain and clutch pack drain, so that was helpful. I'd really like to know what that mystery plug is about, maybe something the factory uses when assembling the PDK. Porsche is in an odd place, it seems like they're fine with you working on you car sometimes but other times not. PIWIS is quite annoying but then they'll sell me any part I need and sometimes the techs tell me how to do the job so I'm just confused on what Porsche's stance is on the DIY guys. The PDK is kept pretty secret, you can find quite a bit of information about the engines but the PDK is kept under lock and key. I think they just want to keep PDK as a trade secret or it could be an agreement with ZF or both. PDK has a leg up on many other DCTs and is possibly one of the best so they most likely just don't want to make competition for themselves.
@@omarg6022 There are plugs all over transmissions. They aren't necessarily fluid plugs but may have other purposes. I have no doubt that Porsche want to keep the PDK as secret as possible. ZF are very open with spares etc for any other transmission they make. For the PDK it seems to me that they have done a deal with Porsche to only supply them and keep it wrapped up. I'd love one day to get my hands on a transmission, pull it to pieces and make a video series of it. You still wouldn't be able to get parts for it though.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy yea I wonder where those tuning companies get parts from, sharkwerks and es motors have clutch pack upgrades and sharkwerks will change gear ratios.
Sorry Jeff, if I’ve missed the answer somewhere but how much PDK clutch fluid should I buy to perform the change that you show in this video. Thank you.
Depending on how much you drain. You will normally get about 2.5L without dropping the pan. Since this video I worked out how to remove more fluid. Link below to this video if you are interested. In this case you can get a bit more than 3L out. So you need a little extra for the refill. I would recommend 4L. th-cam.com/video/dTzK7xbZQyM/w-d-xo.html
jeff , I have a question regarding clutch fluid for Porsche 981 as you know we drain 3 liters only from 5.2 L ….this will not affect the clutch because I will mix (add ) different oil manufacturers ? just to confirm GL5 75W-90 for transmission gear set DCT ATF oil for clutch Thanks.
As long as the clutch fluid is the correct spec, mixing is fine. The actual porsche gear fluid has a spec that is GL4.5 75W 90, meaning it complies with both GL4 and GL5. Just ensure you find something that has this. Yes, DCT ATF for the clutch.
The prices were relevant for when I made the video a few years back. They are a bit more expensive now, but not much. I use Nulon fluids, which are made here in Australia. OEM fluids are a waste of money. As long as the fluid is the correct spec, that's all that counts.
Bit confused what fluid is what When you say PDK clutch fluid is it ATF fluid that drains from the plastic pan drain plug? and PDK gear Fluid you drain from 2 plugs is 75w90? hope I've got it the right way round as going to do this today. Thanks for your help, really appreciate your videos, they have helped me a lot with the PDK fault I have on my car
Yes, that's correct. Note the clutch fluid isn't normal ATF, but a type of ATF that is designed specifically for a DCT. Spec for fluids are below from the ZF lubricant list. Don't have to get these exact fluids. Just as long as it's this spec. 1. Clutch section Fuchs Titan FFL-3 => ZF Oil No. 0671.090.534 (ZF LifeguardFluid 7.3 DCT) => Porsche Oil No. 999.917.080.00 2. Transmission section ExxonMobil Mobilube PTX 75W-90 => Porsche Oil No. 999.917.067.00 or => Porsche Oil No. 999.917.090.00
I've never been a fan of additives, but I have very little experience with any of them. If you have an engine/TX that is badly worn then I'm sure there are good products that help. My MO has always been, 'service well and replace bits before they get to be a problem', so I have never had the need for additives. That being said, I'm sure there are people out there with vastly more experience than me that would offer a different opinion.
Toyota air filter: Release 4 spring clips; lift cover; change filter. Porsche 981 air filter: Remove the entire trunk liner; remove oil filler lines, unclip engine CPU, and remove half the back end. Ridiculous.
Are you talking about mid-engined Toyota car? I’m not even sure such one exists. In case you missed that, cayman and boxters are mid engined two seaters with front and back trunk, so obviously access to engine accessories is quite limited.
@@gustaff.weldonLook up Toyota MR2 air filter change. A guy has an 8 minute video for the Spyder. Remove brace, disconnect battery, and then disconnect the filter housing from the MAF.
I'm a mechanic. And whatever they charge for labour is justified. No average white-collar man on the street can service this car.😂 I love your videos. Still new to the channel 🎉❤
How often (time and mileage) do you recommend doing the PDK clutch and trans fluid on the 981. I know many disagree with the Porsche manual which suggested 10 or 12 years.
When you change the clutch fluid you can only get about half out, so it's like half emptying a bucket of dirty water and then fill it with clean all the time. The gear fluid you can completely drain. For this reason I change the clutch fluid every 10,000 km and the gear every 20,000 km. This is probably overkill, but I'd rather do it more often than not. It's cheap and easy to do. I've seen the inside of transmissions and clutch packs that have had regular fluid changes. They just don't wear. 200,000 km and you can see still the part number printing on the clutch friction disk contact faces. It also keeps all the crap and hence wear out of the valve body, which is critical. The Porsche suggested timeline is to minimise the maintenance requirements. If you can I'd do it far more often. I base it on km only, not time. Unlike engine oil you don't have the problems that possibly require a replacement based on time.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thank you very much for your detailed answer. Much appreciated. My car is a US 2014 981S PDK with 39,900 Miles/64,000 km. PDK service has not been done to my knowledge, although the car is still under Porsche Warranty (CPO) until June 2022. Although the service is technically not due per the owners manual, viewing your advice here, including other sources, I will be doing this service ASAP at the local Porsche dealer. Question: Do you recommend also doing the PDK Sump and Built in Filter with this PDK clutch and gear service? I understand the Sump needs to be replaced and it comes with a new filter. My PDK works just fine. During the downshifting transitions in "manual" model into 2 gear, as I am slowing the car down, are sometimesnot as smooth as in "auto" mode (a bit jerky down shift timelines in manual mode...I hear that many be normal)
@@apolloandratti7922 I don't recommend doing the pan/filter, but some disagree with me. Have a look at the Planet 9 link in the description. It's the original write up for the PDK fluid change and has a lot of detail on what is done and why. It might answer a few questions.
About to actually do the PDK service on my 981 cayman, how many liters do you use for each one? Like how much for clutch, for gear oil (which I’m assuming is just transmission) and how much for the diff. Also what is the filter housing wrench size
Also mine is at 75K miles, is there any software that needs to be reprogrammed for the clutches to close at a different rate, I noticed mine are slipping so I hope it’s just the fact the previous owner never changed the fluid and the very thin fluid is causing that.
Gear oil and diff are the same thing as it's all in the one chamber. About 3 litres. PDK clutch fluid has about 6 litres capacity, but will only drain about 3 litres, so this is all you need.
Porsche recommended service procedures don't really require much doing, apart from the engine oil and filter, and a lot of looking! An OPC will charge hundreds for that.
I like your video but I feel it provides a false sense of security. Without R&R the PDK pan, you won't get the benefits of a clean filter and visual inspection for metal shavings, etc.
Have a look at the Planet 9 thread referenced in the description. There is a lot of information there, and one of the things I talk about is this subject and the reasons I don't bother changing the pan/filter.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy I will take a look Jeff but I personally will always drop and change the pan/filter @ 60K intervals and do it your way in between.
As a lightly skilled DIY mechanic (I have a professional friend, that's the only reason) and as someone on the verge of getting a Boxster, I just wanted to say THANK YOU. Your content is awesome, to the point, and informative.
Hi Jeff & Others, just did another Major Service on my 2.7 981 Cayman. Full Inspection, Wheels Off, Engine Oil & Filter, Spark Plugs, Brake Fluid Flush and this time the Gear/Diff Oil. I had trouble finding the quantity needed to do the Diff so drained & measured. I got 2.25 litres out and that's what went in, Nulon 75W-90 squeeze packs. The PDK fluid was replaced at the last service following your instructions to the letter. Many thanks to you as your video helped heaps...again.
Gear/Diff oil quantity 2.25 litres of 75W-90.
This is invaluable information. I learned a LOT.
Thanks for the feedback. Happy driving. Jeff
I'm about to buy a 981 Boxster, so this is fantastic, Jeff. Thank you!
No problems. Enjoy the car. It's a fantastic drive.
Awesome stuff man, great to see videos of how to maintain these cars. It seems like barely anyone makes videos on it, coming from a BMW community, there's a video and instructions for just about everything and a really broad after market. I just got a 981 Cayman and I like to do self service as well. Its just that not many people are out there making videos on it let alone good detailed videos like you. Don't stop : )
New 981 owner and been DIY'ing many different things on my various Mercedes (W203 and now S205), your videos are awesome and great reference tool to know about the challenges and tips in dealing with a mid engine car. Job well done! Hello for Canada
Your videos are great! THANKS!
One thing people don't talk about is that you need to pull the air filters towards the center of the car, not straight back. Makes a huge difference!
Thanks for the instruction. Porsche dealer quoted $600 for oil change and $700 for air filter change on my 718 Spyder. Did oil change for about $70 and air filter for $95 using oem filters. Took me about 1 hr for oil change and 3 hours for air filter change. Dealer rate is $300hr. Switching out air filter was PIA. Feels like they made it over complicated so people need to take it to dealership for maintenance. Air filter change on my other cars take about 3 min.
cheers Jeff - been wondering how to change my OEM air filters for BMC - now I know!
On my third 981. (Base Cayman, GT4 and now Boxster S) Very good stuff. Thank you.
Many Thank´s for all of your awsome and professional manuals. You gave me the confidence to do the services and repairs by my own.
Best regards ..
Happy to help
You da man! Thank you very much for posting this!
Really enjoy your videos and they are very informative.
Well Done sir best Video of overall I have seen on the Cayman/Boxster, Thank you for sharing!
This demonstration is super useful. Thank you very much.
Incredible! Good to know (as an almost owner) that I can do at least some of this work myself. Thanks for sharing!
This is such a helpful video! (I've watched it 10+ times now) lol! Thank you so much!
Thanks for the donation Mitch. Much appreciated. Happy you are getting something from the videos. Cheers, Jeff.
thank you very much for your detailed videos.
will you be doing a video for drive belt replacement? i need to replace mine. thank you!
I will at some stage in the future when mine needs doing. That's a way off though. There's plenty of information online on how to do it.
Hiya, great video thanks. I've brought a PDK service kit from a Porsche specialist website, the service kit comes with a replacement PDK pan (housing the filter). They supply 5L of oil for the PDK Clutch and 3L for the PDK gearbox. I don't think you mentioned the amount of oil required. Hopefully this sounds about right? Thx
That's correct.
Great thx! 👌🏼
Have you ever made a list of all the tools needed for the service in this video? It would be great to build a Porsche kit of tools for full service. I could keep that handy for each time I service my 981 rather than having to dig out each tool every time.
Awesome video Jeff. Appreciate it. 👍
Thank you so much for making this video
No problems. Happy to help.
Thanks much! A bunch of good info described here.
Another great video. Thanks!
Hi jeff ! Very useful information in there ! If I am not mistaken you do not discussed why you did not replace the PDK pan/filter. It's by far the most expensive bit so I am very much inerested in your comment about this choice. Thanks in advance !
The filter is a very coarse fibrous type that is designed to last for the transmission lifetime and will only catch really large bits. It's the same filter type that is used on a standard auto. I used to change them regularly but when cutting them open they were always empty. The wear particles in the clutch section will be either ferrous and caught by the magnets in the pan, or they are from the friction disks. These will continue to circulate in the fluid and not be caught by the filter.
I have recently revived an old E36 BMW with 360,000 km on the clock. I did a full transmission service including the filter. The oil was like grey soup with none of the material in this being caught by the filter, and the magnet in the pan was thick with ferrous sludge. I cut open the filter to see what was inside. I counted 6 tiny pieces of metal in the filter in total, so it was basically empty. Don't know if it was the original filter, but it had certainly been in there for a long time.
For me changing the fluid regularly is really important for a whole raft of reasons, but the filter is in my opinion a waste of time.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy thank you so much for this again. That's invaluable information!
What a superb video…fanbloodytastic 👍 One thing though, I have seen people pouring fresh oil into the filter pot prior to refitting it rather than doing the fuse pulling and priming process…I can’t offer any guidance as to whether that process or Jeff’s process is the way to go…Great vid Jeff
The way I do it is a bog standard way of priming the engine. Attempting to fill the pot is messy and won't fill in the other places where the oil has drained like the draw tube etc.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Makes sense buddy 👍
@@jeffrichardsoncardiyjust watched the video. Saw you explained pulling the fourth fuse. Was there a second fuse to pull also? Or just the one you described? Thanks
@@marcosvaldes8910 You pull the fuel pump fuse in the cabin to stop the engine by removing fuel pressure. For the priming you leave the fuel pump fuse out, but also pull the ignition fuse in the rear luggage compartment. In this way you have neither spark or fuel for the priming. No chance of ignition and also there isn't fuel being sprayed into the cylinders, which you don't want as this will wash the oil off the cylinder walls.
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
saved me at least a thousand dollars to do these very simple jobs.
Excellent, and very much appreciated thank you
Hi Jeff,
I wanted to ask if there’s a difference in the gear fluid drain plug location between left-hand and right-hand drive vehicles. I’ve gone through some workshop manuals, but the diagrams seem inconsistent with your car and mine in terms of plugs position. Some manuals are labeled for the 981, but the layout appears more like the 911. I’m lost.😢 Would appreciate your expert insight on this!
There's no difference between left and right hand drive cars. Drive train for both is identical. Gear fluid plugs are the same location as shown in the vid for any Boxster or Cayman. 911 is different as the transmission is a near mirror image.
Just changed my oil and filter before storing the car for the winter (Canada) and wasn’t aware about pulling the fuel pump fuse. However everything went smoothly and restarted the car without incident and got a correct level reading after warmup. How crucial is having negative fuel pressure while performing this service? And what are the consequences if something goes wrong?
If you pull the ignition fuse only, the car will crank and prime as shown in the video. The reason I remove the fuel pressure is to not have fuel sprayed into the cylinder during the priming process. With the fuel pump fuse pulled, there will still be residual fuel pressure. I don't want fuel sprayed in as it can wash the cylinder walls. I want everything fully lubed when it fires the first time.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thanks Jeff, live and learn! I will be better informed for next time. Thanks
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Jeff, this video is fantastic. I didn't know about not having to change the PDK filter, just the fluid. Makes the job way easier and way less daunting.
Regarding pulling the fuses, (and I defer to you - you've likely forgotten more than I'll ever know about this), are we sure this is necessary or are you just being extra careful? I've never opened up a Porsche engine but I've had lots of high performance motorcycle engines apart (12K rpm redlines) and the engines are still well lubricated with the oil drained. There's a slight delay before oil pressure is up at re-start but it's by no means a "dry" start. I know that Porsche dealers do not pull the fuses and prime as you do. But again, I'm not challenging you, just want to hear more about why you do it. Thanks man, please keep up the good work.
@@Rockt-p6m A couple of reasons. I've always hated the metal on metal rattling for a few seconds on that first start after an oil change so I've always done this on my cars to stop it. I've also come across some good info recently that showed there is an increase in wear particles in the oil sample if this isn't done (same thing as not pre filling a spin on filter) prior to the first start. Worse with thinner oils, which the Porsche doesn't use, so I might be overly cautious. Thicker oils seem to cling to components and protect on that first 'dry' start, so I don't think it's a big ticket item. It just makes me feel better though.
Jeff are these wheels at 8:26 Carrera III 20”?
Regarding 7.5l of oil is that for 3.4 engine?
Wheels are Carrera S 20". 7.5L of oil for both the 2.7 and 3.4.
Excellent video sir.
No problems. Happy to help.
Wouldn't pulling the fuel pump fuse cause the high pressure pump to run dry? I remember reading somewhere that running the HPFP dry can cause premature failure.
Definitely won't run dry. It's also a type of HPFP that has it's own oil supply and doesn't use the fuel for lubrication. This method of running down the fuel pressure is the procedure in the workshop manual.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiyGood to know, thank you!
Hi Jeff, just pulled the rear boot lining out, I now has a plastic black rectangle frame that fell from the very rear, behind the carpet 🙁 I don’t know where it goes😏 lol.
If I could send a pic, I would.
Great stuff mate. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video - thanks!
Hi Jeff, Can you tell me the reason for taping off the bottom pan flange with painters tape prior to draining the PDK oil?
The only thing I can think of is they don't way fluid to get in the gap between the pan and housing that might then come out later and look like a leak. It says to do this in the workshop manual, but having now done this procedure numerous times I don't bother any more as I don't think it serves much purpose.
Ok, so clutch fluid done Jeff. Thanks so much, I feel a lot more confident to do this again after following your instructions and all went well. I bought 4 litres per your suggestion and used 3.6-3-7 litres, so perfect (car cold, fill plug removed and no oil dribble, so it may have been a little low) I have a little left to top up if needed. To my knowledge this is the first clutch oil change since the car was new in 2013. Next is the gear oil, so here we go again, how much should I buy? I’m going for Motul GL-5 SAE 75W-90
I will now use your ideas for drain splash minimizing. Cheers! Barrie
The total it takes is a tiny bit under 3L, I think 2.95L is the spec. You won't get all of this out, maybe 2.5L. I'd have 3L on hand. I personally buy the fluid in 20L drums, as it makes it a lot cheaper and I do it regularly. The 75W-90 goes in all of my cars be that a diff or transmission.
Just confirm your comment on the cold and no dribble was with the engine running? If the engine is stopped it should flow out with a good gush. If the engine is dead cold and engine running with the fill plug removed, you should be able to see the fluid through the fill hole if you shine a light down there. If not then it's probably low. The expansion of the fluid is minimal from cold to 40C, which is where the correct level is determined. I'm assuming the cold temp of the fluid when you checked wasn't -20C or some crazy cold temp.
PDK clutch fluid. Car level, engine not running and cold, around 20c. No dribble, could not see oil. Drained and pan “tube” siphoned then left overnight. Total 2.9 ltrs of old oil removed. Drain plug back, refill to dribble (engine not running). Run engine, temp (IR) to 40c. Topped up until good dribble flow, replaced fill plug and torqued. Remaining fluid from 4 ltrs is 600ml, so 3.4 ltrs added less some wastage (left in the syphon pump/spillage etc.) I estimate 3.3ltrs went back in. So 2.9 out, 3.3 back in. Does that sound ok or possible overfill? Would 400ml additional oil cause a problem? I’ve not driven the car yet so I could drain a little. Thank you.
It sounds like it was a little low prior to the fluid change and you have now corrected it. If it was a dribble with the engine running at 40C that is the correct level, and it makes sense that you needed to put some more in.
I'm a little concerned why the level was low to start with. There is a possibility you have an internal leak from one chamber to the other. If you haven't drained the gear oil yet, I would remove the fill plug first, to see if this chamber has too much fluid. There should be a very slight dribble at most when removed. For this the engine doesn't need to be running.
Thanks Jeff, I will be attacking the transmission gear oil next week. I will do as you say and double check the level when the fill plug is removed. Thinking back, it was quite a strong dribble/flow when I was topping up so it’s possible I slightly overfilled. Should I run the engine and PDF fluid back up to 40c and let any overflow out or will a little extra not cause a problem?
Sorry to hassle but I trust you and I just need a bit of support doing this for the first time.
@@len333p I wouldn't be concerned. I little bit too much, if indeed it is, won't be an issue at all. It's only if it's seriously over filled that it would be an issue.
The part about resetting the service interval. Is it proprietary or did you cover it in another video?
Can only be done with the diagnostic software.
What oil capacity?
As manual 7.5 aprox.
But the display shows 2 box in half.
Hey Jeff, do you know where the oil level sensor is on the 981? Have an odd issue with oil level reading. Also do you know what the mm oil levels are supposed to be when checking with a scan tool? thanks
Sensor is the black thing at the center/rear of the pan with 3 screws. Needs to be changed with the oil drained. I've looked before at the mm and not taken much notice because it changed quite a bit with temperature and didn't seem to be a good indication of oil level unless you had a temp v's level table. What indications do you have?
had an odd issue. I owned the car for 3 years, have done all the oil changes myself with exactly 8qt of oil (US). That always put me exactly in the middle of the oil level on the gauge. never in the three years has the oil level changed. until two weeks ago. I was driving the warning come on that I had too much oil (not possible only put in 8qt, a month prior and with 300 miles driving). When I stopped at a gas station to fill up, the level lowered itself to exactly the top good level and has been there ever since. At first I thought maybe it's the coolant that go into the oil. checked the coolant - not missing a drop. Thinking the oil sensor might be acting up. A scantool shows 65.250 mm. @@jeffrichardsoncardiy
Any shop manual links would be welcome
www.planet-9.com/threads/981-boxster-workshop-manual.246427/
Hello, do you have a video on how to clean the throttle body for a 981?
Not on that specifically, but the method is the same as any other. Have a look at the intake manifold video I did for how to remove the TB.
th-cam.com/video/HqPPPF_zin0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=B4XjXZYKuX-MzI4f
excellent video and just what i was looking for. one question is that PDK gear oil = differential gear fluid? am i correct?
It's all part of the gear section, and it takes a 75W-90 GL 5 synthetic gear oil. The spec is MOBILUBE PTX 75W-90
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy super!!!
@@ryanlim0111 I just want to confirm. Don't put gear oil mentioned above in the clutch section. You will kill the transmission. You are probably all over it, but I just wanted to check.
Thanks Jeff, good video. I’m new to the 981 Porsche and looking to service the PDK/DSG and the Clutch and Diff oils. Would be good if you could have added what oils you used as they seem to be a secret. Also could you clear up for me that the Clutch and Diff are in one and use the same oil? Quantities also would help… asking too much?
Fluids I used were from Nulon, an Australian lubricant manufacturer. Gear/diff oil is 75W-90 synthetic gear oil. Clutch oil is their DCT fluid.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thanks Jeff, can't believe you have gone to so much trouble with you Porsche videos to help others. I will now replace the PDK/Clutch fluid when I get a chance using the Nulon fluid, the Diff can wait. For a DYI guy you look very well set-up, wish I had a hoist but manage. So far have done 2 oil changes and replaced the Spark Plugs... not easy! Thank you again from myself and the other Porsche 981 owners.
Jeff thank you so much for putting this together. Do you think this would work for a 2019 991.2 Turbo S? I have an AccessPort, so I Can monitor the fluid temp. Also, do I need to do both clutch and gear? Or is clutch good enough? I only have 14000 miles on it. Thank you in advance for your help.
If the question is regarding the PDK fluid changes there should be no difference. I'm not familiar with the 991.2, but I'm assuming it's still the 7 speed PDK and not the 8 speed like in the 992. The 7 speed setup is close to identical except a mirror image, so the same procedure applies. I change the gear oil every 10,000 km, along with the clutch fluid. Overkill, but there's so little fluid and it's a simple procedure so I do it.
Objectively the gear oil doesn't need to be done as often as the clutch fluid. When changing the gear fluid you are able to remove about 90% of it, but you will only drain about 60% of the clutch fluid. The clutch area of the transmission is much more important for fluid changes, so to keep good fluid in there the changes need to be done more often.
Great info video!
You wash the charcoal active cabin filter? That made me stop watching the rest of the clip?
You are correct that normally an active carbon filter shouldn't be washed, but I'm talking from my own perspective.
The car is a convertible, the roof is off 99% of the time, and I live in a place where the air is clean with zero pollution. I just want to filter the debris that would otherwise end up in the heater core/evaporator on the few occasions where the a/c fan is blowing.
Just done another 5,000 kms oil/filter change and followed your instructions precisely Jeff. No issues at all. One question.. do you need to pull the fuel pump fuse or could you just pull the ignition fuse?
I don't want any fuel going into the cylinder when cranking. Otherwise it will put fuel in the exhaust and also wash down the cylinder walls and remove the oil, which is something that is considered undesirable.
Got it! Thanks Jeff, now I understand.
Hi Jeff. Any idea where all of the change over valves are on the 981? I have a pesty coolent light that wont go away. (Non PSE base car with PDK). Regards, Tyson from Adelaide.
G'day Tyson. Two on the PDK and one for the heater core.
This video shows both PDK valves
th-cam.com/video/vf4V15LggzQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=znBrZ4ghMAQ27Wzm
This video shows the heater core valve
th-cam.com/video/NN1wJ6s1O3I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jdhYOOX3CkJrNxx8&t=352
@jeffrichardsoncardiy thanks for the fast reply! Lets hope the two on top of the transmission are accessible without dropping the trans. But yeah. That nails 3 COV locations. I wonder how many others there are.
@@ForgetfulFoot I forgot about the big one that is on the front of the engine. Video here explains how the entire cooling system works. Later on in the vid it shows where this valve is.
th-cam.com/video/OvUjpMgN1yk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=b32s_aLgvR2b7mfs&t=864
Tyson, have you put the diagnostics on the car? This should normally pinpoint where the problem is rather than simply seeing a generic 'coolant fault' message on the MFD.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Buik Motorsports in Adelaide hooked it up to a PIWIS and it only showed a vacuum fault on the computer. It didn't give the specifics on which COV was at fault.
Looking online across forum posts etc. Some people say that you can get a specific indication of which one failed via PIWIS. Others say you just get a generic vacuum fault. Bit annoying.
thank you r , a really informative video
I called pentonsin and they said the FFL-3 Fluid they make is the equivalent of a 75w-80 GL-4 rather than a 75W-90 GL-5 and that the fluid is used on everything from transfer cases to differentials to drive gears and the clutch pack. My main dealer assured me the fluids are different (trans and differential) but the fill point seems to be the same. Another dealer said the fluid is the same for everything. There's also a mystery drain plug on the drivers side (LHD) above the clutch pack fill my parts catalog and the dealers part catalog do not recognize its existence but they knew what I was talking about. My main dealer said however they don't do this job often and that they were also kind of scrambling for information. I'm just going to do what you did, the transmission is way past due for a change at this point too (80K miles)
It has always amazed me the lack of information about the PDK transmission from those people who you would assume would know. It's like some mystery box that Porsche has successfully put a shroud of secrecy around. I can guarantee you the information I've provided is straight out of the workshop manual. My transmission, as well as many others would have failed a long time ago if the information was incorrect.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Yea the dealer who said the fluids were different sent me a copy of WM of how to do the "final drive" drain and clutch pack drain, so that was helpful. I'd really like to know what that mystery plug is about, maybe something the factory uses when assembling the PDK. Porsche is in an odd place, it seems like they're fine with you working on you car sometimes but other times not. PIWIS is quite annoying but then they'll sell me any part I need and sometimes the techs tell me how to do the job so I'm just confused on what Porsche's stance is on the DIY guys. The PDK is kept pretty secret, you can find quite a bit of information about the engines but the PDK is kept under lock and key. I think they just want to keep PDK as a trade secret or it could be an agreement with ZF or both. PDK has a leg up on many other DCTs and is possibly one of the best so they most likely just don't want to make competition for themselves.
@@omarg6022 There are plugs all over transmissions. They aren't necessarily fluid plugs but may have other purposes.
I have no doubt that Porsche want to keep the PDK as secret as possible. ZF are very open with spares etc for any other transmission they make. For the PDK it seems to me that they have done a deal with Porsche to only supply them and keep it wrapped up. I'd love one day to get my hands on a transmission, pull it to pieces and make a video series of it. You still wouldn't be able to get parts for it though.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy yea I wonder where those tuning companies get parts from, sharkwerks and es motors have clutch pack upgrades and sharkwerks will change gear ratios.
@@omarg6022 I wonder also, and what they have access to. Is it the whole range of parts or are they having a third party produce what they need.
Sorry Jeff, if I’ve missed the answer somewhere but how much PDK clutch fluid should I buy to perform the change that you show in this video. Thank you.
Depending on how much you drain. You will normally get about 2.5L without dropping the pan. Since this video I worked out how to remove more fluid. Link below to this video if you are interested. In this case you can get a bit more than 3L out. So you need a little extra for the refill. I would recommend 4L.
th-cam.com/video/dTzK7xbZQyM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for your response Jeff. I’m planning to do this in January. Much appreciated 🇨🇦
Washing a non-reusable filter during service is super cheap and not recommended. Once you wash it, it will lose most of its filtration properties,
jeff ,
I have a question regarding clutch fluid for Porsche 981
as you know we drain 3 liters only from 5.2 L ….this will not affect the clutch because I will mix (add ) different oil manufacturers ?
just to confirm GL5 75W-90 for transmission gear set
DCT ATF oil for clutch
Thanks.
As long as the clutch fluid is the correct spec, mixing is fine.
The actual porsche gear fluid has a spec that is GL4.5 75W 90, meaning it complies with both GL4 and GL5. Just ensure you find something that has this.
Yes, DCT ATF for the clutch.
Wait what, what pdk gear oil costs only 30 bucks, could u provide the information on your oils?
The prices were relevant for when I made the video a few years back. They are a bit more expensive now, but not much. I use Nulon fluids, which are made here in Australia. OEM fluids are a waste of money. As long as the fluid is the correct spec, that's all that counts.
Bit confused what fluid is what
When you say PDK clutch fluid is it ATF fluid that drains from the plastic pan drain plug?
and PDK gear Fluid you drain from 2 plugs is 75w90?
hope I've got it the right way round as going to do this today.
Thanks for your help, really appreciate your videos, they have helped me a lot with the PDK fault I have on my car
Yes, that's correct. Note the clutch fluid isn't normal ATF, but a type of ATF that is designed specifically for a DCT. Spec for fluids are below from the ZF lubricant list. Don't have to get these exact fluids. Just as long as it's this spec.
1. Clutch section
Fuchs Titan FFL-3
=> ZF Oil No. 0671.090.534 (ZF LifeguardFluid 7.3 DCT)
=> Porsche Oil No. 999.917.080.00
2. Transmission section
ExxonMobil Mobilube PTX 75W-90
=> Porsche Oil No. 999.917.067.00 or
=> Porsche Oil No. 999.917.090.00
Would you recommend any oil additives for smoother cold starts such as Ceratec?
I've never been a fan of additives, but I have very little experience with any of them. If you have an engine/TX that is badly worn then I'm sure there are good products that help.
My MO has always been, 'service well and replace bits before they get to be a problem', so I have never had the need for additives.
That being said, I'm sure there are people out there with vastly more experience than me that would offer a different opinion.
Toyota air filter: Release 4 spring clips; lift cover; change filter. Porsche 981 air filter: Remove the entire trunk liner; remove oil filler lines, unclip engine CPU, and remove half the back end. Ridiculous.
Are you talking about mid-engined Toyota car? I’m not even sure such one exists. In case you missed that, cayman and boxters are mid engined two seaters with front and back trunk, so obviously access to engine accessories is quite limited.
@@gustaff.weldonLook up Toyota MR2 air filter change. A guy has an 8 minute video for the Spyder. Remove brace, disconnect battery, and then disconnect the filter housing from the MAF.
How can check power steering fluid, located?
It's electric power steering so no fluid
I'm a mechanic. And whatever they charge for labour is justified. No average white-collar man on the street can service this car.😂
I love your videos. Still new to the channel 🎉❤
How often (time and mileage) do you recommend doing the PDK clutch and trans fluid on the 981. I know many disagree with the Porsche manual which suggested 10 or 12 years.
When you change the clutch fluid you can only get about half out, so it's like half emptying a bucket of dirty water and then fill it with clean all the time. The gear fluid you can completely drain.
For this reason I change the clutch fluid every 10,000 km and the gear every 20,000 km. This is probably overkill, but I'd rather do it more often than not. It's cheap and easy to do.
I've seen the inside of transmissions and clutch packs that have had regular fluid changes. They just don't wear. 200,000 km and you can see still the part number printing on the clutch friction disk contact faces. It also keeps all the crap and hence wear out of the valve body, which is critical.
The Porsche suggested timeline is to minimise the maintenance requirements. If you can I'd do it far more often. I base it on km only, not time. Unlike engine oil you don't have the problems that possibly require a replacement based on time.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thank you very much for your detailed answer. Much appreciated. My car is a US 2014 981S PDK with 39,900 Miles/64,000 km. PDK service has not been done to my knowledge, although the car is still under Porsche Warranty (CPO) until June 2022. Although the service is technically not due per the owners manual, viewing your advice here, including other sources, I will be doing this service ASAP at the local Porsche dealer. Question: Do you recommend also doing the PDK Sump and Built in Filter with this PDK clutch and gear service? I understand the Sump needs to be replaced and it comes with a new filter. My PDK works just fine. During the downshifting transitions in "manual" model into 2 gear, as I am slowing the car down, are sometimesnot as smooth as in "auto" mode (a bit jerky down shift timelines in manual mode...I hear that many be normal)
@@apolloandratti7922 I don't recommend doing the pan/filter, but some disagree with me. Have a look at the Planet 9 link in the description. It's the original write up for the PDK fluid change and has a lot of detail on what is done and why. It might answer a few questions.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thank you again. I will look at the Planet 9 link.
How much would it cost for a Dealer to do all that ? $1-2K ?
Thx for this I really appreciate it.
Jeff, what kind of grease you use around the air filter housing? Thanks
Just a bog standard lithium based grease.
Thanks much!
Thanks mate
No problems. Happy to help.
About to actually do the PDK service on my 981 cayman, how many liters do you use for each one? Like how much for clutch, for gear oil (which I’m assuming is just transmission) and how much for the diff. Also what is the filter housing wrench size
Also mine is at 75K miles, is there any software that needs to be reprogrammed for the clutches to close at a different rate, I noticed mine are slipping so I hope it’s just the fact the previous owner never changed the fluid and the very thin fluid is causing that.
Gear oil and diff are the same thing as it's all in the one chamber. About 3 litres. PDK clutch fluid has about 6 litres capacity, but will only drain about 3 litres, so this is all you need.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy what fluid do you use for the clutch pack?
@@omarg6022 Nulon DSG fluid.
FROM CHILE 🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱
pdk oil every 10k is ridiculous
why risk it?
Porsche recommended service procedures don't really require much doing, apart from the engine oil and filter, and a lot of looking! An OPC will charge hundreds for that.
I like your video but I feel it provides a false sense of security. Without R&R the PDK pan, you won't get the benefits of a clean filter and visual inspection for metal shavings, etc.
Have a look at the Planet 9 thread referenced in the description. There is a lot of information there, and one of the things I talk about is this subject and the reasons I don't bother changing the pan/filter.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy I will take a look Jeff but I personally will always drop and change the pan/filter @ 60K intervals and do it your way in between.
Complicated.
Changing the oil every 5,000km seems unnecessary.
A complete waste, service interval is 20KM
If you do not track your car than I agree but if you do you should read up on bore scoring prevention