Review: Eco-Plug oil drain plug & thoughts on stripped sump threads
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2024
- A review and discussion of the Eco-Plug threadless magnetic oil drain plug, intended to fix stripped sump drain threads and provide convenience for future oil drains. This is the 12-16 mm 1.25" length for damaged alloy sumps.
I chose this device out of all the other little inventions available as it seemed most likely to be a reliable long-term solution. It works as advertised but introduces a few caveats as discussed.
Amazon links to products shown ~
* Eco-Plug store: amzn.to/2BBMYlj
* Fumoto drain valves - US: amzn.to/2LwKKIm | UK: amzn.to/2V6ksAS
* Thread sealant e.g. ~
Loctite 592 - US: amzn.to/2da1uoz | UK: amzn.to/2cEldgn
Permatex High Temp - US: amzn.to/2diZ5us | UK: amzn.to/2cvlnU0
Update after 10,000 km: • Review update: Eco-Plu...
(Using the above links helps support my channel and is appreciated!) - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![[ไฮไลต์] แบดมินตันหญิง ไท่ ซือ หยิง vs เมย์ รัชนก อินทนนท์ รอบแบ่งกลุ่ม | โอลิมปิก 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LUCG0H5qkpQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Amazon links (from the desc) ~
* Eco-Plug store: amzn.to/2BBMYlj
* Fumoto drain valves - US: amzn.to/2LwKKIm | UK: amzn.to/2V6ksAS
* Thread sealant e.g. ~
Loctite 592 - US: amzn.to/2da1uoz | UK: amzn.to/2cEldgn
Permatex High Temp - US: amzn.to/2diZ5us | UK: amzn.to/2cvlnU0
Whats your long term review on this drain plug
This literally saved my life. I dont know what i would've done without it
You saved me $100 plus plus. I bought that product and forced my Colombian mechanic in Colombia to use it. He made $5 mil pesos instead of $350 mil pesos. He tried twice before to repair either the thread or put in a larger bolt. I was being ripped off paying lots of pesos for for simple repairs that failed. This cone product stopped the leak dead in its track. Gracias!
I bought the new version of eco plug that has pre applied thread sealant. This plug has worked like a charm.
I've had a Fomoto Oil Drain Valve on my last 3 cars (more than a 3/4 of a million miles). I now have an EZ Oil Drain Valve on my Camry. Both valves are awesome. I usually drain over night, but 20 mins will work too
Thanks Craig for your useful videos, I encountered the same problem of oil drainage from drain plug.
so I went to a turnery & used a new drain plug .
Had a marine rubber plug last 70k miles on an old truck I owned. Best $5 fix
How do I find the size I need? M14x1.5?
the best fix for stripped oil drain plugs
Maybe not the best. But it works.
What a brilliant review. Being more comfortable with Helicoil technique, I'd instead reach for that. Still, it's nice to see how this went together, so I am able to recognize what it is if I ever find one. I might not have understood that to open, all I have to do is pull the magnetic plug out. It would be a gross error to spin it off with a wrench.
Thanks for the video! Definitely there’s much better options but was curious about this one.
First of all, top notch video and narration. Very well done. As far as the content, "stopgap" is the key - maybe start with that word. No way would that hunk of junk end up in my car or truck. As if there aren't enough scary features, some oil change clown would just put his wrench on that beaut and wind it right out!
One last comment: I'm that ass who bought a Fumoto valve and all the Fumoto accessories for my 2019 Tacoma, and thoroughly chickened out when I did my first oil change.....that thing would be a rock target!
Very nicely explained and narrated Sir.
great work thanks, in my cramped workspace under my x1 i think i might have torqued it too much, but the nut is solid for now..
I saw this at walmart (with some type of sealant already on the threads) and wondered how it worked. I like the idea of hacksawing the end off a little bit. You could have drilled out the hole a little bit to make it fit in further. Also if you worry about old oil not all draining out you can pour in a little bit of fresh oil with drain removed to flush at least some of the old oil out.
Go figure. Walmart stripped mine out last oil change.
They work well i just finished repairing my 04 silverado 4wd with that one no leakage and it is simple once you get it started just tighten it up fill and check for leaks if there are leaks just tighten until it stops leaking
You deserve way more subscribers. Perfect breakdown of the details. Elegant solutions.
Thank you, I just did the same after watching this video. Thanks again
Update after 10,000 km: th-cam.com/video/yLaNq_JK5jE/w-d-xo.html
Loool why do I find the epoxy hardening and preventing you from screwing it in so funny.
I just used this on my 2010 Charger. The new one has some kind of thread locker on it. No leaks at all!
I been using this since 2015 b4 Walmart and everybody started using this. This plug has saved alot ot problems from happening and made my life alot easier when comes to oil change. Now no one will change my oil so better for me
Hello i have 2 liter petrol mk3 mondeo
Im having problem with coolant on my oil , what should i do ?
Car is not loosing lot of water is a head gasket blow or what to change ?
What makes you sure there is coolant in the oil?
Yes
Bodge is a good way to put it. You want to have the engine proper waem and the fill plug open when draining.
I love when Ramsey calls people muppets 😍🤣
I have a stripped thread on my fiesta please help by telling where can I buy this?
well made video
I suspect the epoxy might help support the drilled bolt in the area behind where the thread has been cut but some of the taper remains in drain hole.
Very detailed and informative video. Thank you very much.
Red thread locker best the cap cover is another leak prevention good product!
That stick out would concern me as well. I would drill the hole out to a larger size, maybe 15 or 16
Thats awasome... By the way how much did you buy
Good thorough review. Shame some muppet stripped your threads to start with. Some people just have no feel when working on cars.
Craig....thanks for the informative video. I installed the Eco Plug about two weeks ago and all went smoothly but about a week ago I noticed a very small leak from the threads. I hesitate to tighten the bolt any further because I fear disturbing the epoxy, which has hardened. Do you think I should remove the bolt and reinstall with thread sealant? Thanks for any advice you can offer. BTW,the car is a 2005 Ford Escape.
The epoxy provided is pretty rubbish IMO, definitely remove it, scrape off the epoxy best you can, and use a thread sealant like the Permatex shown. This is flexible and will fill gaps. When you refit just do it up tight in the same threads, no need to cut more. In my experience that works well. If you re-use the oil I would filter it once or twice in case you get any chunks of old epoxy contaminating it.
Thank you, sir! I will follow your advice and let you know the results. Much appreciated!
Good review. Sorry you had a hard time with the epoxy. I'd agree it's not really fit for purpose. I too would be worried about the crankcase pressure blowing the magnetic catch off, but if you run the car hard and it stays on, it's going to stay on for good. If it does come off, your oil warning light should come on before the engine gets damaged.
Eric at South Main Auto Repair demonstrates a professional repair kit . Short of replacing the pan , depending on difficulty , it may be a good long term solution .
Absolutely Bill. I've not seen Eric make any suspect repairs/kludge like this system. However, it's educational to see these bad ideas (thank goodness I'm not a shaeholder)
They have the .75 length one. The one you used is the 1.25. I bet if you had the shorter one it would have worked better. Good video though! I am installing the shorter one on mine today
How does it work for you?
@@QurenTheShield Man it's a life saver! It works perfectly! I used the .750 length one and it fits alot better than the 1.25. It doesn't stick out that much either. I'm coming up to my next oil change and no leaks since either.
@@brandono.4945 thanks.
Should you have kneaded it without gloves on?
Nice job 👍🏻
I installed this EcoPlug and it did not work for me! How would i gake it off? And would a bigger bolt and new threads be a better idea?
What do you mean it didn't work for you, it wouldn't seal or what. Yes drill & tap a larger hole is the better fix, but you need tools & access, and you need enough space for the larger bolt head. This is a stop gap solution.
1st substitute epoxy with a JB WELD putty. Then screw on. Lastly add black cap
You have to do it very tight, tighter than you usually would, you cant strip it any worse
Just surrendered to my diff fill plug on my 1986 F150. I'm certain it's never been changed. It's supposed to have a 1/2" ratchet head to remove it. I stripped it. I didnt even come close to removing it. So, it's off to my mechanic, John.
I have no idea what the plug looks like. Maybe I can google it. I'm putting on a plug with a bolt if possible.
Very p******* off because I did everything over 3 hours total I could think of, but there is nothing I can do!
David
Alberta
Well done stripping a 1/2" socket. A weld might get it off but it sounds pretty stuck. It will be a taper thread (like plumbing sockets) with sealant or PTFE tape, if you search my other videos for my CD4E service you'll see what I mean.
Good video was worth watching
What about the residual oil then goes below the plug
It is hard to tell what kind of bolt you need to buy. A drawing of the bolt you need wiith dimentions would be most helpful.. Also a drawing of the modification you need to do on the new bolt would be real helpful.
just bought it today to install in my bmw x3- it has pre applied sealant that activates, then fill oil in 5 minutes, we will see....$8 at auto zone
Does work for you?
Great video, thanks for sharing
Good presentation on a terrible kludge. Time Sert for this applicaion, no bandaid.
Looks like a wonderfully crack case / oil pan splitter. Far to agressive that taper
I've use them and they work great, try using steel stick. I don't think they provide you enough of the loctite equivalent.
How is it holding now? After 3 years?
It's fine, every other seal on the engine is leaking oil but not this one...
@@CraigsDIY Since installing with success have you installed the Edo Plug on any more cars? If so, have you experimented and figured out a torque spec you might recommend so avoid further damage to an alluminum Honda oil pan?
No way would I use a product that could get knocked out of place so easily, drain your oil unknowingly, and lead to an extremely expensive repair when one could very easily just retap the threads slightly larger OR install a helicoil.
A time sert is the way to go for this problem
Wait so its only held by a magnet plug at the end? uh....
After over 55 years of wrenching, I have yet to strip anything on any vehicle. Maybe some should take up another hobby.
No way would I use that product looks well doggy, re tapping with corresponding larger plug size would be a better option
Just an observation the Epoxy isn’t sticking because of oil you did mention that you cleaned the thread with brake clean yet your glove has oil on it, good job though 👍 good solution for DIY
I really don't like how far that thing is sticking out. That's reason enough to always keep a threadsert kit around the garage.
BEST WAY I KNOW to snap off a large chunk of the pan next to the hole, thus making a very large unfixable hole, is to used this tool. Please dont ask me how i know
No good under an off-road vehicle unless it has a skid plate under this area
I'll say who! Walmart fall apart!!! Thanks for the video
You could also use a small sized condom on the new drain plug, as a protection from being knocked.ᕕ😆ᕗ
I would have went with running a tap thru the pan and install a bigger plug. That ecoplug is shady.
Yes indeed just done the very same on my Series Landrover on the gearbox filler, previous owner had tightened it in and completely taken most of the threads off I managed to get plug out and re tapped to 14 mm od 1.25 thread pitch and used a corresponding plug size. That Eco plug crap device would only be holding on with a few threads and would undoubtable start leaking past that magnet plug.
why not just use this to cut in a little bit then use a regular 14mm bolt to cut the rest of the threads.
that way u can fit a 14mm in there for life!
You need to use a proper drill & tap to do that.
$30 fix. try avoid air wrench. 22 lb torque on buick electra pan
This is a junk product.
Been running one for 100,000 miles on my $1300 Jetta no issues or leaks
Craig, get rid of this abomination and helicoil it. Thats what i did after the garage stripped mine clean.
I had to close my eyes when you were driving that taper in, waiting for the sump to crack. Can that magnet hold properly when the engine is on with full oilpressure? Imagine it poping on the highway and losing all the oil in seconds. I wouldnt risk it.
Good review othervise, love your videos. :) Cheers
Haha well a cracked casting would have made for a good video :)
The sump is not under oil pressure but I know what you mean. I don't get the impression the magnet can be forced off. The risk mainly lies with the thread and the hangover from the over-sized product. Thread tapping next time I think.
Good review, dumb ass comment. Have had this product on my car for 7 months. Only a non intelligent person that has never used this product first hand would question the strength of the magnet. Tried the helicoil method before using this product, what a nightmare whatever you do please don’t take the advice of this foolish individual. 7 months later and no issues whatsoever using this
@@bobjackson1071 You must be the company owner of Eco-plug
Peter Sarlai I made a comment based on actually owning the product compared to you just making assumptions. If your only response to my actual experience is claiming that I’m the owner of a product I guess that’s your problem
@@bobjackson1071 If a simple helicoil is a nightmare to you, i'm not surprised you like this. I don't even understand this product. What does it save you with that magnet? Is unscrewing 1 bolt when changing oil such a huuuge hassle? I agree it can be a temporary fix but definitely not permanent.
I see a massive oil leak in your future ... conical means it's only biting on very few threads ... very susceptible to being knocked by road debris. A drill and tap would have been better / faster / simpler. And then there is the magnetic cap ... I can't believe that's even legal ...
Epoxy has to be mixed together with wet hands. Mixing it dry wont work as you can see.
I would have used Teflon tape
I wouldn't trust it not a good fit
Or just get a new sump?
That's worst case scenario and what you want to avoid.
@@CraigsDIY fair enough mate
Can u use on 13mm😂
They have sizes from 12mm up
The ecoplug is a scam, if you don't start the ecoplug strait, and you have an aluminum oil pan, you could Crack your oil pan! Not very good in my opinion!
Just install one of these when your car is new: th-cam.com/video/lven6V-wkpk/w-d-xo.html
no no no
thats a funny "stupid" solution xD
Absolutely a good review but the design idea is idiotic
You're using a ratchet! and still you remove the spanner and reposition it like a normal spanner Why?....Oil viscocity changes from cold to hot. So the real leak test would be to fill the engine with the correct oil, and run the engine until it reaches correct running temp, and then check for leaks.
On your part user error 🤔😆
Not a muppet ??
Craig: "you are cutting new thread and wedging a cone into a linear hole" How is that better than cutting a new thread by going up to the next smallest size? The reason eco-plug doesn't give a recommended torque is you cannot sue them by blindly following instructions and cracking the aluminium sump.
Any body working with motorcycles deals with this problem regularly. A cone wedge is not the answer. I stopped watching when I saw the epoxy.
And yet it works. It's a bodge not an answer. Cutting a new thread at the next size up involves drilling and tapping which is far more involved for the average amateur. It's also possible there's insufficient room for the larger bolt head & gasket, depending on the sump.
Amazing how quick you are to label a person a muppet for simply stripping an aluminium sump , ??
Many highly qualified mechanics have stripped an aluminium sump pal for various reasons, put you hand up if you are a mechanic that has never made a cock up of something, it goes with the job , its how you deal with it afterwards that make maketh the man and there are FAR better ways than a conical plug 😉
This plug is a very bad idea. I do oil changes every day. Never had a problem with stripped drains. If the plug won't go in we replace it. If this plug is installed and is leaking then the pan will be messed up.
It's a great solution, if you truly do oil changes every day you've come across this situation. Unless you service only private fleets or cars with only steel oil pans. It's not that the plug won't go in, there are no threads for the plug to hold onto. A new plug will not solve this. This plug guarantees you won't have to replace the pan. I've used dozens of these, and the only issue I've come across are other shops trying to remove the ecoplug with a wrench. Thus breaking the epoxy seal. You only remove the middle insert, a drain plug within a drain plug.
They also make them in "straight" sizes meaning for undamaged pans, for those who want a fumoto style oil change.
Lol that thing is garbage
Absolute garbage, the only correct way to repair a completely stripped oil drain plug hole is to drill-tap-helicoil or drill-tap for one size larger bolt. The only other option to to replace the drain pan, do your own oil changes and stop going to quick 5 min oil change businesses. Use a damn torque wrench to ensure proper bolt torque to prevent over torquing and stripped threads.