I used the spark plug repair kit shown. Tapped new threads, put the insert in, and used a spark plug as a drain plug. Not sure it was needed but I wrapped the spark plug threads with plumbers Teflon tape and plumbers dope. No leaks yet.
Hey what about after an oil change and re using the spark plug? Any leaking? Do u Teflon and dope after each oil change? I ask cause jiffylube must have lost the bolt and used a diffrent one and stripped the threads/ She took it to a diffrent place to get some routine maintaince & the mechanic said it was a million dollar job¿?? Whatever that means? I asked don’t they make repair kits or can it be redrilked and Tapped to a larger diameter Thread? N he didn’t want to get into the situation as though it was an extremely difficult job? So I’m researching trying to come up with best solution.. Any luck? Or suggestions?
@ I add a little teflon tape each oil change. Done 3 changes so far. It goes back together fine. So for me it’s a solution. Didn’t want to tap threads to next biggest size because of concern metal bits would fall into the oil pan. No way I wanted to pull the oil pan. There were other solutions I considered-using a rubber “cork/plug” that expands when you tighten the bolt going through it. Good luck.🍀
Thanks for the video! And for those who are doing this... 9/16-18 is the thread pitch he used. Virtually the same bolt as the oem 14mm x 1.50. but a tiny bit bigger.
You gave a fantastic video presentation. I’m sure you have got to be or once we’re an instructor for auto technician school. You could easily make a subject seem so simple. I found your video on trying to remove a spinning oil pan bolt that I can not remove on on an old Massey-Ferguson tractor. This didn’t solve my problem but I sure enjoyed your video and I did pick up some pointers. Thanks
I had issues on a 2014, 1.8 L Jetta. It would slowly bead up oil under the drain plug, after I did and oil change. The cheapest fix I found was to use a O-ring. I actually use a rubber O-ring that I use on my Harley Davidson touring bike. Fit beautifully and stopped the leak. If my threads were stripped, I probably would resort to cutting new threads, thankfully I didn’t have to.
I had this idea too. My Jetta Mk5 might be stripped, but if it's just ok, I might try your o ring. Or else the silicon make-a-gasket. Otherwise, I've just ordered a helicoil for $30
Brilliant ! Mine is less stripped so the 9/16 bolt will definitely work for me too ! I was about to buy a second hand sump this week for a ton of money...
please mention that alot of these problems are caused by incompetent Technicians who over torque the bolts, use impact guns, etc. This is not a tire change, these bolts do not really require much torque at all. The result is rethreading or changing out the oil pan. Do dealerships do this on purpose to generate money or do they hire people who dont know what they're doing. Either way this is an expense that is unnecessary.
I got "scammed" by a service shop that offered a 1/3rd discount oil change for $55. They gave me a "Free" diagnostic for over $1200 of additional (upsell) work - which I declined. Unfortunately, my teenage granddaughter went back to the same shop for a 2nd oil change - wanting to get the same discount. That's when this shop pulled out their scam! They claimed the oil pan gasket got over-torqed (butt and the car/oil pan that had No Oil Leaks and without a "Service Engine" 😊 light display now needs to have the oil pan and gasket completely replaced at a cost of $1100.😮 We're going to end up in court over this scam...
@wowgen123 is correct. This is a pattern failure on Honda oil pans. Also, dealerships (and other independent shops) all have some incompetent employees. You don’t put your ‘A’ tech on oil and tire changes. It’s usually a high school kid working part time.
Fr I got scammed by the last person that owned my car. Same issue I just did my oil change for the first time yesterday and same shit. Bogus now I have to use a thread tap kid to make a new thread 😅
That was really cool, I call it 'next level' in fixing the problem. I have seen about 8 ways to fix the issue, your solution I like the best, really simple and ingenious, thank you!!
A back-tap is the better method for cleaning up damaged threads - as it engages from the inside out. I used one successfully on a blown spark plug. Simple and effective tool.
Awesome awesome! Bought a car that was weeping ~one drop oil per day. Turns out the pan was retapped and a long bolt that bottoms out and was used with a plastic washer. Got a smaller bolt and an aluminum crush washer. Will dab the outer threads w versachem thread sealant. Will report back if it fixed my leak.
Leak fixed! As mentioned my Honda oil pan had been retapped before. The only bolt that would fit was a drain bolt from a 95 Corvette or 5/8-18 bolt that came w a rubber washer. Leaked constantly. Well ordered an aluminum crush washer and then covered the outer threads and the face of the crush washer w Versachem #2 sealant. Had used this product many times for leaking drain plugs on manual transmissions and also Rear Main Seal bolts. Never had a leak. Happy to report this worked and my drain bolt is no longer leaking. Success!!! BTW was quoted $650 to replace oil pan.
9/16-18 UNF has a 1.41 mm thread pitch. It must slightly deform the 1.5 mm female threads as it winds in and since those threads are aluminum that happens easily, at least for a short bolt.
two things you should have done first to cut the new bolt to the correct length second you should kept the old oil and re add it to flush the shavings from inside out and then add the new oil. good job
My 1992 Mazda Miata seems to have a Timsert (fancy threaded insert) that has worked its way further inboard, so I have switched over to a toggle bolt (wall anchor) type of oil plug from Dorman. Trying to remove the Timesert might create more problems, so I will stay with the Dorman method.
Just so i get this right.. the original thread in the sump was to fit sump plug M14 x1.5. And you used the same tap size m14x1.5 to make new thread? And it worked clearly. I would have thought you would need m15 tap
The body shop guys did it when taking it for oil change. They said last people stripped it. Never could change oil. Now I have problem. How to get old oil out and plug fixed without spending a fortune on new pan and swap
I have a 99 Toyota Camry 3.0L V6 with a stripped oil drain plug. I want to perform this exact thing. The original bolt that is stripped is a M12-1.25. I would think I have to go slightly bigger so what would be the right size tap?
Great repair, however I would have trimmed the 9/16 bolt to the length of the thread in the pan, perchance a longer "Plug" would come in contact with the Throws of the crankshaft.....that would be catastrophic.....just observing....
Is Toyota Seinna's 2004 oil pan threading also aluminum? I have the exact same problem, but have not looked at the threading inside to see if it's damaged. And if changing out the pan is necessary, do you recommend using permatex on the new gasket seal?
I always use shlac , gasket makers at threads . They provide lubrication while tightening and seal when set. 300 oil drain Guaranteed for entire life of the vehicle
Wow, I learned something today! Perhaps you could have used a 9/16 * 1.25 pitch oil drain plug instead of the bolt? Anyways, this is a lot cheaper than a new oil pan!
@Auto Resource EXCELLENT fix! I have a 2006 Ridgeline like your wife’s and I have a small leak, too. I want to do this fix. Ridgeline drainplug is M14x1.5. I want to retap like you did. What are the specs of that new drainplug you used? I heard SAE 9/16 but I didn’t get the thread type. THANKS! I’ve posted before that even though I have a Honda I LOVE watching your videos. You are a great teacher and explainer. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Looks to me like the bolts holding up the oil pan were green: makes men think that this was an aftermarket oil pan thus no metal sleeve for the plug. Just sayin...
I was thinking the same! and also made think twice when searching for an oil pan replacement! ill be looking at the threads from the drain plug to compare to the old one!
My bolts is stripped except it won't come out of the hole I can get a wrench on there but it just spins not sure what to do I put a vise grip on it with no luck..
Some idiot put lock tite red on my oil pan plug now I can't remove it! But I was wondering if I'm able to remove it can I put a new plug with re treating
if its not leaking pump from top side instead, some new cars they want it done that way now anyway. keep the empty 5 q bottle on hand to empty into then save the bottle from the change you do. this way you never have to jack the car or put on ramps and get under.
Nice job,nice video,aluminum oil pan,steel plug,"What could possibly go wrong?"-VW-Virtually worthless! They should make the "engineers"-yea,what railroad"-who design this garbage-fix it!
M13 x 1.5MM Oil Drain Plug Tap Thread Repair Kit Oil Pan Screws Rethread Tool, Ended up doing a hand tap, then flushed with liter of oil. So far no leaks...set torque at 15 lbs instead of 18 not to over torque
I used the spark plug repair kit shown. Tapped new threads, put the insert in, and used a spark plug as a drain plug. Not sure it was needed but I wrapped the spark plug threads with plumbers Teflon tape and plumbers dope. No leaks yet.
Hey what about after an oil change and re using the spark plug? Any leaking?
Do u Teflon and dope after each oil change?
I ask cause jiffylube must have lost the bolt and used a diffrent one and stripped the threads/
She took it to a diffrent place to get some routine maintaince & the mechanic said it was a million dollar job¿?? Whatever that means?
I asked don’t they make repair kits or can it be redrilked and Tapped to a larger diameter Thread?
N he didn’t want to get into the situation as though it was an extremely difficult job?
So I’m researching trying to come up with best solution..
Any luck? Or suggestions?
@ I add a little teflon tape each oil change. Done 3 changes so far. It goes back together fine. So for me it’s a solution. Didn’t want to tap threads to next biggest size because of concern metal bits would fall into the oil pan. No way I wanted to pull the oil pan. There were other solutions I considered-using a rubber “cork/plug” that expands when you tighten the bolt going through it. Good luck.🍀
Thanks for the video!
And for those who are doing this...
9/16-18 is the thread pitch he used.
Virtually the same bolt as the oem 14mm x 1.50. but a tiny bit bigger.
You gave a fantastic video presentation. I’m sure you have got to be or once we’re an instructor for auto technician school. You could easily make a subject seem so simple.
I found your video on trying to remove a spinning oil pan bolt that I can not remove on on an old Massey-Ferguson tractor. This didn’t solve my problem but I sure enjoyed your video and I did pick up some pointers. Thanks
Nice fix but you should always crack the filter loose before installing the drain plug. They typically hold a 1/2 qt of oil due to vacuum.
Would have poured in some new oil to drain out metal shaving great info
save the old you take out before you cut use that to flush
I had issues on a 2014, 1.8 L Jetta. It would slowly bead up oil under the drain plug, after I did and oil change. The cheapest fix I found was to use a O-ring. I actually use a rubber O-ring that I use on my Harley Davidson touring bike. Fit beautifully and stopped the leak. If my threads were stripped, I probably would resort to cutting new threads, thankfully I didn’t have to.
I had this idea too. My Jetta Mk5 might be stripped, but if it's just ok, I might try your o ring. Or else the silicon make-a-gasket. Otherwise, I've just ordered a helicoil for $30
Brilliant ! Mine is less stripped so the 9/16 bolt will definitely work for me too ! I was about to buy a second hand sump this week for a ton of money...
It is a huge success for me , works perfect
Thanks Brother for helping me save "mucho dinero" $2.95 for the bolt and washer. It worked perfect!
please mention that alot of these problems are caused by incompetent Technicians who over torque the bolts, use impact guns, etc. This is not a tire change, these bolts do not really require much torque at all. The result is rethreading or changing out the oil pan. Do dealerships do this on purpose to generate money or do they hire people who dont know what they're doing. Either way this is an expense that is unnecessary.
It also randomly happens I've done 25+ oil changes on my Honda and today all the threads came out when pulling the plug
I got "scammed" by a service shop that offered a 1/3rd discount oil change for $55. They gave me a "Free" diagnostic for over $1200 of additional (upsell) work - which I
declined. Unfortunately, my teenage granddaughter went back to the same shop for a 2nd oil change - wanting to get the same discount. That's when this shop pulled out their scam! They claimed the oil pan gasket got over-torqed (butt and the car/oil pan that had No Oil Leaks and without a "Service Engine" 😊 light display now needs to have the oil pan and gasket completely replaced at a cost of $1100.😮
We're going to end up in court over this scam...
Their just lazy and stupid
@wowgen123 is correct. This is a pattern failure on Honda oil pans. Also, dealerships (and other independent shops) all have some incompetent employees. You don’t put your ‘A’ tech on oil and tire changes. It’s usually a high school kid working part time.
Fr I got scammed by the last person that owned my car. Same issue I just did my oil change for the first time yesterday and same shit. Bogus now I have to use a thread tap kid to make a new thread 😅
That was really cool, I call it 'next level' in fixing the problem. I have seen about 8 ways to fix the issue, your solution I like the best, really simple and ingenious, thank you!!
A back-tap is the better method for cleaning up damaged threads - as it engages from the inside out. I used one successfully on a blown spark plug. Simple and effective tool.
Awesome awesome! Bought a car that was weeping ~one drop oil per day. Turns out the pan was retapped and a long bolt that bottoms out and was used with a plastic washer. Got a smaller bolt and an aluminum crush washer. Will dab the outer threads w versachem thread sealant. Will report back if it fixed my leak.
Leak fixed! As mentioned my Honda oil pan had been retapped before. The only bolt that would fit was a drain bolt from a 95 Corvette or 5/8-18 bolt that came w a rubber washer. Leaked constantly. Well ordered an aluminum crush washer and then covered the outer threads and the face of the crush washer w Versachem #2 sealant. Had used this product many times for leaking drain plugs on manual transmissions and also Rear Main Seal bolts. Never had a leak. Happy to report this worked and my drain bolt is no longer leaking. Success!!! BTW was quoted $650 to replace oil pan.
Thank you so much just what I need and your instructions are just what I need great job!
Amazing!!! Top Video from a very clever mechanic!!! Really appreciate this magical way to fix the problem!
Glad it helped
Great job . You probably could have cut some off the bolt i imagine .
9/16-18 UNF has a 1.41 mm thread pitch. It must slightly deform the 1.5 mm female threads as it winds in and since those threads are aluminum that happens easily, at least for a short bolt.
You did a great job Mate...
Thank you, sr. That was a very good hob
Great fix, saved many $.
two things you should have done first to cut the new bolt to the correct length second you should kept the old oil and re add it to flush the shavings from inside out and then add the new oil.
good job
My 1992 Mazda Miata seems to have a Timsert (fancy threaded insert) that has worked its way further inboard, so I have switched over to a toggle bolt (wall anchor) type of oil plug from Dorman. Trying to remove the Timesert might create more problems, so I will stay with the Dorman method.
What material is that washer made out of? Would using a rubber or silicone washer make sense, so that it can be reused?
Nicely done. I will definitely do this to fix the problem. Thanks
Thanks, great video. I have a question, what is the max length that the replacement drain plug bolt can be?
Just so i get this right.. the original thread in the sump was to fit sump plug M14 x1.5. And you used the same tap size m14x1.5 to make new thread? And it worked clearly. I would have thought you would need m15 tap
I think its because he went beyond/past the original thread aand further into the ool pan , creating new threads .
Very nice respected teacher macanic
nice work , i would have cut it though , cant bear it when something is too long
Great explanation 👌
The body shop guys did it when taking it for oil change. They said last people stripped it. Never could change oil. Now I have problem. How to get old oil out and plug fixed without spending a fortune on new pan and swap
I have the same issue however the bolt just turns and wont come out thinking about drilling a hole.. any thoughts?
apply outward pressure while turning plug with flat screwdriver under plug head.
I have a 99 Toyota Camry 3.0L V6 with a stripped oil drain plug. I want to perform this exact thing. The original bolt that is stripped is a M12-1.25. I would think I have to go slightly bigger so what would be the right size tap?
Great repair, however I would have trimmed the 9/16 bolt to the length of the thread in the pan, perchance a longer "Plug" would come in contact with the Throws of the crankshaft.....that would be catastrophic.....just observing....
Is Toyota Seinna's 2004 oil pan threading also aluminum? I have the exact same problem, but have not looked at the threading inside to see if it's damaged. And if changing out the pan is necessary, do you recommend using permatex on the new gasket seal?
Great video! What is the grean stuff you are using?
Good evening
When removing a sump of a Golf 4 1.6
Wat tool do I need to remove the two nuts in the middle, next to the gearbox?
The rest are removed
1/4 inch universal joint.
“There is many ways, how to skin the cat!” 😂😂😂
The local asian restaurant can offer tips on how to do that. 🥡
I always use shlac , gasket makers at threads . They provide lubrication while tightening and seal when set. 300 oil drain Guaranteed for entire life of the vehicle
Fantastic Hack my man !
I didn't see you run some oil thru the pan to get out any excess cut threads.
Wow, I learned something today! Perhaps you could have used a 9/16 * 1.25 pitch oil drain plug instead of the bolt? Anyways, this is a lot cheaper than a new oil pan!
Never seen a fractional bolt with a metric pitch
@@beckyschwantes5287
9/16”-18 a bit bigger than 14-1.5
@@beckyschwantes5287 there is a lot this guy don't know.
Nicely explained and good vid
where can i get this tool he use to thread the pan. Name and place asap please
@Auto Resource EXCELLENT fix! I have a 2006 Ridgeline like your wife’s and I have a small leak, too. I want to do this fix.
Ridgeline drainplug is M14x1.5. I want to retap like you did. What are the specs of that new drainplug you used? I heard SAE 9/16 but I didn’t get the thread type. THANKS!
I’ve posted before that even though I have a Honda I LOVE watching your videos. You are a great teacher and explainer. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Helicoil
Good information. Thank you for your help. :)
Where did you get the bolt 9/16
Nice video - Thank You
Great job !!!
Why not use a thread insert? Should make it last longer…
Thanks for the post
Just one thing guys... don't forget to rinse your oil pan With cheap oil before changing your oil ans filter
Where’re you location
Thank god for SAE measurements.
Great Video 👍
Looks to me like the bolts holding up the oil pan were green: makes men think that this was an aftermarket oil pan thus no metal sleeve for the plug.
Just sayin...
I was thinking the same! and also made think twice when searching for an oil pan replacement! ill be looking at the threads from the drain plug to compare to the old one!
Thank you for this very helpful video that you shared with as thenks .
my issue..have a stripped plug that will not come out on my X5..
My bolts is stripped except it won't come out of the hole I can get a wrench on there but it just spins not sure what to do I put a vise grip on it with no luck..
If there is space, slip a flat blade screwdriver under the bolt and apply upward pressure while turning. This worked for me.
@@maryreed2280 thank you. I'm going to try this on my stripped bolt
Some idiot put lock tite red on my oil pan plug now I can't remove it! But I was wondering if I'm able to remove it can I put a new plug with re treating
if its not leaking pump from top side instead, some new cars they want it done that way now anyway. keep the empty 5 q bottle on hand to empty into then save the bottle from the change you do. this way you never have to jack the car or put on ramps and get under.
Why no change bath
That's a perfect 👍👍
I wouldn't touch the bolt ever again pump old oil out from the top
i need this work done
If it spins but won't come out, what then? That's the problem I'm facing right now.
Use grip pliers to work it out.
I have 2013 Jetta w drain plug stripped
What kind of grease are you use Sir?
RONNEL CANIBAS doesn’t matter. Anything you have.
at 3:13 "there is a steel insert in the aluminium pan to prevent this" Yes there is!!, you have to go and buy it and put it in your self.!
wrong bolt........ its supposed to have large head to push the washer evenly so it doesnt leak
but it's not leakin.
Nice job,nice video,aluminum oil pan,steel plug,"What could possibly go wrong?"-VW-Virtually worthless! They should make the "engineers"-yea,what railroad"-who design this garbage-fix it!
Wrong one to use !! Shaving are now inside
My drain oil plug just spins, any suggestions?
Did you get it out? I'm on the same situation. ..
@@byroncos yes I did but I had to remove the oil pan & wire weld the boss nut back to the oil pan
I would have replaced the oil pan if it was any worse
Great
Same issue just not as bad.. M12x1.5x16mm oil drain plug would you go to M13 X1.5 x16mm and rethread with tap? If so what size tap
Best Regards
I have the same issue and size bolt. What size ended up working for you?
M13 x 1.5MM Oil Drain Plug Tap Thread Repair Kit Oil Pan Screws Rethread Tool,
Ended up doing a hand tap, then flushed with liter of oil. So far no leaks...set torque at 15 lbs instead of 18 not to over torque
❤
Long bolt
Funny that's a ford or chevy bolt
Idiot lube techs using impact drivers to put them back on making them possible to remove...never again doing own changes with a fumoto valvr
Man, there is a lot of things you don't know about what you just did.!!!
just replace the oil pan simple.
that car easy to change what about my beater 2000 malibu, pan not so easy