**PLEASE READ** **NO, THE OIL PAN IS NOT CRACKED, IT IS JUST A CASTING MARK IN THE ALUMINIUM** *TIME-SERT M14 X 1.50 Metric Drain Plug Kit #1415C: amzn.to/2DEFeSf *M14 X 1.50 X 12.7mm Time-Sert Insert Part # 14155: amzn.to/2BnYHoE
Love those Time-Serts. I've had great experience with them in soft aluminum. And, thanks for posting the correct size. Definitely want to measure twice, buy once.
Hey Eric I have a little tip you may already know about but when I have done this I always put a nice glob of silicone on the bit you use to cut that way a lot of the shavings will stick to the grease and not get in the pan
After successfully stripping a drain plug thread today who do I find with a 3 year old video to save the day Mr O, thank you sir for being a saviour yet again in my TH-cam quest for knowledge.
My favorite thing about these videos is how every car has “the big {insert displacement here} motor in it.” Whether it be a 1.6 or a 5.0 every motor is “the big” motor
I saw this many times in my 40 years as senior tech at a large Honda dealership. The factory drain plug for aluminum pans is longer than normal so as to distribute the load over more threads but many oil change shops will replace a perfect drain plug with a shorter one (just to sell a plug) and then likely overtighten it as well, stripping the hole. In my opinion, if you use the proper plug and reasonable torque you will never deform or strip a pan, steel or aluminum. Also, let me say that I am highly impressed by your diagnostic abilities and knowledge of so many brands and models! I had the luxury of only having to know and work on one brand and I felt lucky for that. I'm really enjoying your attitude and personality and wish you the best of everything.
I have five 1970-2004 vehicles and Mrs. Cusser has a 2014 Yukon, all purchased used. Only I change the oil on these, and I've not yet had a stripped-out oil pan needing such repair.
Eric never ceases to amaze me, how he tackles any job, anywhere. A true pro mechanic. Only wish he'd live near by to fix my family's cars. Keep up the excellent work.
G'day, Mr. O! Great video... "Stripped Oil Pan Bolt Hole Repair." Basically, drained the oil (I've let as much of it drip out as possible), added axle grease to the flutes of the tap, then used the back of a hex socket to drive the tap, and used a wrench to hold the hex end. Went slowly, a few turns, then back, then repeat. Turns out, the aluminum used in the oil pan is softer than plastic and the tap does an efficient job of cutting new threads. These kits are a lifesaver. It doesn't help that the oil drain hole's threads are aluminum and the drain bolt is steel. Cheers! 😊🛠❤️✌🏼
When I do repairs of these types and I have to thread into a motor case I will fill the flutes of the tap with grease. This helps hold all the metal shavings from getting into the motor. Great video!
not an uncommon issue with the honda v6, we have 3 kits at the honda dealer i work at, there is a class on using the kit(time-sert) in the honda online class, still really appreciate this video, ive only ever done a timesert once, but still nice to see a refresher on how to use it, i know the quick lube has torque wrenches to help prevent this issue because from what ive heard, its people tightening the drain plug too tight on the oil changes, funny thing is that only quick lube has the torque wrenches, not the service techs, lol, thanks for the video Eric! happy turkey day!
Forget the hate from certain 'armchair' mechanics 🔧 that seemed like a bona fide repair and you saved your customer quite a sum. Have been lucky enough to never have come across a stripped plug, but knowledge is power 👊💥
I greatly enjoy your channel, I have been a mechanic for over 40 years and have been retired for 10 years now, watching you almost makes me want to go back out of retirement again. If I lived in your area I would bring my vehicles to you but I live 5000 miles away but I have a Son that lives close to you and I have recommended you to him.
I work at a small quick oil change place, we don't use imapcts on anything except tires. When I insert the drain plug back in i torque it to 25 foot pounds, and after the car is started we retorque. Oil filters are only put on by hand only! don't give all of us a bad name. However i have broken a few regular sockets with a breaker bar on cars that come in that have went to other oil change places.
I just recently found your channel and it been going back through your videos. Shops like yours take me back to my first job as a mechanic, these days diagnosis and actual repair are a lost art. It's good to see that a shop like yours and a mechanic like yourself is still out there.
Damn. Thanks for the idea, Eric. The oil drain plug in my 04 Neon R/T's pan is on the verge of stripping out, and i've been thinking of what to do in the next week or two when i have to do the oil change. I change the oil every 3000 miles, and the engine is in good shape for 221,000 miles. It's very clean inside, found out when the timing belt broke 2000 miles early, and bent some valves. Rebuilt the head and put it back on, and she's been purring ever since (broke in March of 2017). Fyi for those who want to know, i put an average of at least 240 miles a week on my car, is why i change the oil every 3000 miles. Cheap insurance and the engine lasts a very long time. Btw, Happy thanksgiving to you and your family, Eric.
Very neat solution, thanks. My son once rounded off the plug and could not remove it, I came round to sort it, it was well rounded. I showed him my chisel, and explained you really need to get this on your first shot, bang, and it shifted. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the timely video, Eric. I had received my kit 5 days prior and it was the confidence boost I needed to proceed with the repair. My biggest apprehension was cuttings remaining in the pan but that doesn’t ever seem to be an issue in your experience. I just did this repair to my 06 Odyssey and it worked very well. I had the front of the van up on ramps during this process, and used the Timecert 1415C kit (Amazon $131). I was a bit nervous in keeping the drill, counterbore, and tap square to the drain plug surface on the pan. TIP: I didn’t have square sockets but 13mm, 11mm, and 10mm 12 point sockets worked perfect to drive the tools. There is limited working room when the repair is done in-situ and keeping the tools aligned benefits from some skill and experience. If you are a novice I recommend having you service technician perform the work as the consequence can be a very expensive oil pan replacement. The tap guide helped somewhat to keep the tap aligned, but working with the car on a lift would provide a much better perspective on the angles involved. Once the insert was installed (which looks awesome btw) the original plug (with a new crush washer) went in square and leak-free. TIP - as per the instructions do liberally apply heavy grease to the tap to entrap the cuttings, which are quite fine when cut. When I pulled out the tap it was deeply coated with 3/4 inch of cuttings. My observation is that the drill and the counterbore ( on which no grease was applied) rejected its cuttings outside the pan very effectively and very little to none went into the pan. With the work now completed, I poured two quarts of 5W-30 I had on hand (with the drain plug uninstalled) to purge any aluminum debris. I briefly thought about installing the plug, adding 4-5 quarts of oil, and then draining it, but thought that the movement of that much oil into the pan at one time might relocate debris to corners of the pan which may not drain well. With four fresh quarts of 5W-20 I started the engine and checked for leaks and listened for strange or unfamiliar sounds - of which there seemed many! I was probably just very sensitive to the situation and, after 3 days and 50 miles of diving, the only consequence of note is no oil leak!
@@MarkAwainy I took my time so about two hours. It could be done in less than in hour the second time. Note: Even though I tried to be extremely careful, I didn’t quite square up the die when I cut my threads while on my back. As a result my drain plug isn’t quite flush with the pan and a very slow leak occurs. I’ll redo it on a lift… one day. Better than replacing the pan though.
Greetings from little old Denmark.🇩🇰 I bought a cheap kit with oversize drain plugs, copper gaskets and a thread tap for about 15$ for my Citroen xsara 2.0 hdi coal roller with alloy pan , greased up the tap for catching the shavings and i tapped it, works perfect. Thanks for some great tips and tricks 🙌🏻👍🏻
I've had to do this on oil pans and trans pans that are not fully removable with the k-member in the car. Not sure if it's kosher, but I would drain or suck out all the fluid into a new container. Do a drill & re-thread (for instance turning M14x1.5 into a M16x1.5, basically making the same threads deeper/larger diameter), then pour the entire batch of old fluid back in the car to drain out. I figure it was just in the car, and I got a free bucket of fluid that's perfect for the job just sitting there. Then seal it up and put new fluid in.
Ahhh good free tip Friday... on a Wednesday! Ohhhh and about that 1/2 anvil for my IR thunder gun. Any chance on making that happen!? I made a nice little Astro Tools vid today... not trying to bribe ya or anything... ok I am 😏
Hey Astro I have the nano 3/8 and 1/2 impact from South Main Auto Amazon. Loved it so much bought the socket set. Great tools. Just did my upper and lower ball joints and tie rods on my Jeep 2008. As we say in Boston...Wicked easy with Astro Pneumatic impact guns.
Awesome advice. I bought the kit and did the job. No more leaks. The Local Jiffy Lube type garage changed the oil in my wife's Pilot. Shortly after I found small leak in my garage. I attempted change oil and found a large goop of yellow seal all over the plug. It also had the larger plug that cuts into the oil pan along with 1 metal washer and 1 plastic washer. She didn't recall them saying they had to fix a leak. Needless to say I will be doing all of her oil changes going forward.
I had an 2007 Odyssey and was talked into a whole new oil pan since mine stripped out. 4 years too late for me watching this video. Thanks Mr. O next time I'll remember this video! Also the family and I are in town and need the first oil change in my 2018 Highlander if your free! We are visiting my mom in Bath
Another job well done. I have really enjoyed watching you in all your videos. Your old school mechanic's skills and knowledge reminds me of the knowledge and skills that my dad has passed on to me , not to mention your ability to diagnose newer computer controlled vehicles. My dad was a certified GM mechanic and also owned his own garage when I was a young boy. I am 49 now and still use what my dad taught me when I work on my personal cars. We have spent many hours together in the garage working on various car repairs from transmissions to complete engine builds and everything in between. Keep up the good work; the knowledge that your videos give to others is invaluable. My favorite video was when you rebuilt the "non-rebuildable" viscous coupler on the 2006 Kia Sportage. I knew you were a quality mechanic and a even better person for rebuilding it and saving your customer big bucks.
Mr.O. When I first started watching your videos, I noticed you are a fun loving good person. The way you tease Mrs. O Just to have some fun.Then when you repaired the scooter for a local Vet. That was a wonderful. Now the car. You and the S.M.A. family are a fine bunch. I wish You all a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a HAPPY NEW YEAR
The Buick had "the big 3.8" in it, the Suzuki had "the big 3.6" in it, the Toyota 4Runner just had "the 3-4" in it, and now this Hondoo has "the big 3.5" in it. After a long time waiting, the results are in. Engines with a displacement of 3.5 and up are big.
Years ago I took a Honda Prelude Si I had recently bought to one of those quick lube places. They did the same thing to it. And in typical fashion when I found the leak the next day and went back they would not own up to the damages or cover the repairs. I learned no matter how good a coupon deal is do it yourself or pay a real mechanic to change the oil. Now I have a diesel Jeep with an Aluminum oil pan and a really short threaded plug. I installed Fumoto valve on the first oil change with that. Makes it so easy and no worries about stripped oil pans.
Thanks for the video, I’m going through the same problem with a 1995 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 I just bought . Same oversized leaking plug . I was looking at time sert and think I’ll go the same route ! Thanks again !
Installed a Valvomax valve in my 2017 Ridgeline to avoid this very problem. First vehicle I've owned that had an aluminum oil pan. I don't like the idea of aluminum threads for something that has to get removed repeatedly.
Try a plastic one! I have a (pre owned) 2018 F150 with one and surprise surprise, the drain plug is leaking. I'm getting ready to order a steel one to replace it. It boggles my mind that anyone would think that is a good idea.
@@FixIt1975 thats true. Im fortunate enough to live in the South and clean my undercarriage religiously whenever it snows. I think I'm still just getting adjusted to new vehicles. The newest one I ever had before this one was a 98 Chevy half-ton and let me tell you, the ford makes working on that thing look like a cake walk!
Awesome video Eric. I just happened upon this kit on Amazon and wanted to see how it worked before I bought it. And yet again, you deliver. All techs will eventually come across a stripped drain pan and it's good to be prepared before that day comes. Enjoy your Thanksgiving!
An old mechanic told me one time about Honda oil pan threads. Long before you do damage to the threads put up new plug-in every few years. It's the plug that's doing the damage to the threads when the plug threads get worn out. And it's been working good for me ever since
Thank you for saying it wasn't Jiffy Lube's fault. I work for another company that does quick lubes and this sort of thing happens at least once a week and there is usually a lot of negative words thrown at our industry even though our company's standard is to buy them a new oil pan when this happens.
R230Tuner wrench coming out, in-lbs torque wrench going back in. Yeah usually end up paying labor too unless it is fairly obvious that it was previously stripped. Otherwise we get cursed with “it was fine when it came in”
broomsterm I have personally seen that happen often at dealership service centers. Every time I buy a car I make that same argument to why I don’t want their service contract but they always talk my wife into it and then try to convince us that we need a $300 power steering flush at 20,000. Where I work is just the opposite. Everyone is paid hourly, no commission so the problem is when someone is too lazy to change an air filter that looks like it was used as a shovel or wiper blades that you could use as a whip
Casey83 The few times I have used quick-lube places, the work done was fine....but the pushy upsell, when all I wanted/needed was an oil-change, OH MY, lost my business.
The year was 1983...Took my 6000 mile '83 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe to Jiffy Lube. Man was holding the air filter in his hand telling me I needed a new one. I said no. Drove home, 45 mins. out in the country, and just felt something wasn't quite right. Pulled the air cleaner housing and found a hand full of walnut shells dumped onto both inside and outside of the filter itself. All I can say is, that dude, or maybe me, is damn lucky he was 45 minutes away. Never been to a quick since.
I’ve finally caught up with watching ur videos. Only recently discovered this channel, have been binge watching all the videos. Now I’m stuck waiting for new ones
That's a spot on repair :-D, it looks like a bloody horrible space to do that job. You just saved your customer a bucket of cash, hopefully they will appreciate it.
There are hundreds of well documented reasons to avoid the express/quick/minute lube places. In many cases silently they harm vehicles in a variety of ways as they did this one. If you can't change your own oil use a trusted mechanic not some profit hungry franchised chain hiring minimum wage flunkies where the owner sits at home spending their ill gotten profits. Your diagnostic vids are the most fun but it's also good to have how-to videos with recommended procedures like this one.
Never even knew of those kits, but also for the past 15yrs, just tapped them with the self etching plugs, and did what you did with a quart to clean the pan after. Have a good Thanksgiving bro.
Happy Thanksgiving, my brutha, and your family! 🍻 I got introduced to Time-Serts back in '99 when I started at MMI, Phoenix. Not long after I moved into the house here, I bought a complete metric kit - it was HUGE $$$, but has saved my bum a hundred times on so many jobs. I've actually only used a Helicoil ONCE in my life! There is nothing better than Time-Sert, IMO, for thread repair - the insert will always be the stronger than the material it's threaded into. 👍👍 I hear the ol' heater firing up in the background - I'd be lying If I told you I wasn't jealous, LOL. I've been working in a balmy 35°F all week! The torpedo heater ran out of kerosene (it's a ONE-fuel heater) ... and the place I used to buy it from decided to dig their tank out of the ground the DAY BEFORE I attempted to get some. Just my luck, I tell ya!! The black stove pipe arrived from Menard's for my waste oil burner - hoping to get that thing hooked up soon. Slowly getting caught up. Have to bore a hole through the new building and siding for the insulator - that's gonna be real fun. It's about 10" in diameter, and my hands don't work all that well when they're that cold.. Single digit forecast for tonight and tomorrow night. Shop will be in the low 20's - that's far below my cold tolerance, no matter how warm I dress. 35° I can deal with, but brake clean just HURTS at those temps. Once the Face Melter is hooked up, it'll be 85° in there regardless of the outdoor temp, if I let it run non-stop. 😁
Haha happy turkey day to you too man! Soooo have you been getting a good collection of waste oil stocked up!? If not add it to your ta-do list cuz from the sounds of it your gonna need it! My CNG furnace only runs about $800 a month when it gets real cold. I keep it 63 in there and that is very comfy for me. 85!? You'll be sweating like me trying to help my 5th grader do his homework!
@@SouthMainAuto - LOL, oh I'd be soaked at 85°, for sure! Since the barn has been so full of junk for so long, I haven't used the oil burner in almost 2 years, so I've got probably 200 gallons of used oil kicking around here. I won't really keep it at 85°, especially with no insulation - I bet I'd go through 200 gallons in a few weeks keeping it that warm, LOL! If I dress warm I can handle 55°-60°. The problem with the Face Melter is, even on it's lowest possible setting (without losing the fire), depending on the outside temp, it's difficult to keep the building from getting TOO warm. On those days I have to shut it down ... but then in a few hours, I start getting chilled again. I'll end up spending more time fooling with the heat than I will getting anything done, so I'll just peel off layers and let it fly. :)
Nicely done Eric.I am a mechanic.I have done spark plugs holes a lot.On spark plug holes I drop the piston down.Fill the cylinder with shaving cream.The Alum sits on top of the soap.When done turn the motor over pushes the soap and Alum.out the hole.I use a vacuum hose on a shaving can.Running oil thru to get the Alum out of the pan will do the trick.
Timesert saved my bee-hind when a plug blew out on my 4.6 Lincoln Mark VIII. Used only what I needed and recovered about 75% what I paid for the $400 kit.
@@CubasAutomotive the precision, heavy duty-cut tools in that kit were amazing. It's like I was handling some kind of rare kryptonite. After using just once, it still looked like I hadn't used it.
@@FortyTwoAnswerToEverything My local mechanic, that we had used for over 20 years at the time, used a TImesert to repair a bolt cracked in the block when we had to replace the leaking water pump on a car we bought used. It's not normal to do that kind of work on an old car, but we were between a rock and a hard place. The job held up tremendously well, for many thousands of miles. Eventually the old Pontiac was no longer worth saving, but I remember the repair well.
in ERIC'S behalf,he said he was pouring a qt of oil thru it to flush after the machine work,evidently you didn't hear him,i did,i have so many credentials in this trade i'll not debate you period,i teach,we'll leave it at that,this repair,is a prefect repair,i watched the whole video,these are mainly for the diy,or drive way mech,so he doesn't get lost,when I worked on the line and in shops,we had nationally 45 cars per day, per man,when you have that much potential work,looking for speedy repairs is all of it,ERIC I've said before your drivability skills are impressive,your expertise on various models is refreshing,i hate working on the same thing,and I know you like the suspense,carry on superwrench
I am so happy I found your page and this particular video. Stripped drain pan on my vehicle and was not happy! Purchased the Time-Sert Kit and followed your directions and all is good! Thanks a million!
SMA Socks on the merch site!!! Haha!!! Hope you and the family have a great Thanksgiving! Nothing makes the crappy Ohio weather better than a new SMA video!
I have used this kit also. Good video. One thing I use to do xtra was put red thread lock on an insert and give an hour to dry. Some uses industrial strength JB weld quick dry. Second kit i used is for BMW and Benz only. That works good on honda too. This kit makes a new oversize threads on the pan and comes with its own magnetic drain plug. Kit used in this video is more durable though. I like your commentary.
What do you use for the bimmer? I cannot use the kit in this video because on my bmw oil pan the bolt screws into an extrusion and a small section of the extrusion is just open so when you remove the bolt all the oil will come out. (I hope that makes sense) .
Doing my own oil changes throughout my entire life I've never cross threaded or stripped a drain plug and I'll bet Eric never has either... Always fixin other people's mistakes...
@@billybob042665 If by "very temporary" you mean "outlasts the vehicle" and "stronger than the original threads" then yeah, Timecerts are very temporary! Provided proper installation, of course.
Guess it is common enough, glad i found this. I was gonna try just tapping and putting an oversized drain plug in there. This looks like a better long term solution.
This video really saved my bacon! This is a much better fix than my original plan of just cutting new threads into the aluminum. The steel insert and kit get the job done right. Thank you!
This company makes the best repair kits for repairing stripped threads I had one for doing VW spark plugs I made a lot of money put the inserts and stripped off VW plug threads there inserts are bulletproof if you know what you're doing
This is why I love Fumoto valves. Put one on my Honda many years ago and I never have to remove it again. Makes draining oil a no tools required breeze. It has never leaked a drop of oil.
@@andrewrixon2347 Paraffin or beeswax is perfect to prevent friction welds when cutting or rolling threads in al-u-min-i-um. Then there are those pesky spark plugs.
I keep a stash of those soft plug “crush” washers so those clowns don’t over tighten the plug bolt, trying to stop it from leaking .. I believe Honda does say to replace the washer every oil change.
We use the same kit at my job we have them for Honda and Toyota and few others they are amazing aslong as you install them correctly and make sure you get the insert nice and flush. Oh and to help keep the aluminum shavings out of the pan coat your bit in grease it works nice to collect all the shavings and works it through clearing out the old thread pitch easier
I've got the same kit. It works mint. I got in the habit of putting locktite on the threads before I put them in. I know it isn't nessasary but like my license plate says..... Over kll.😜
You can't blame anyone, at least people are changing their oil. Mechanics run into this all the time and others can never figure out when a bolt is tight.
But the problem remains. Aluminum pan with steel drain bolt that is frequently removed. Stand a very good chance of revisiting the issue in the future with the added twist of a larger hole. With the new steel threads you're good.
the trick is get it in straight to have good seating for the crushwasher and do you have enough room voor a larger drain plug. 15mm bolts can be made but that is not standard let alone a tap....
My neighbors 2016 kia optima was leaking a lot of oil from the drain plug so I suggested using the repair plug, we tried everything but finally I told him it would be better to just install a new oil pan, they are cheap for that car even a factory one was around 60 bucks, we got one from auto zone and it was easy to install but the original was put on with this super strong adhesive silicone, I had to heat it up carefully to get to loosen enough to even get a putty knife in trying not to gouge the engine, it finally broke free, he's changed his oil a couple of times since and no more leaks, he bought it used from enterprise rental sales, he drives a lot mostly highway.
I fixed my ex's Chrysler and installed a quarter turn valve. The shop had insisted that the only way to effectively fix it was to replace the pan. I suggested they get a self tapping oversize plug. That would have worked except they had cross threaded it. When I found it ot was goobered over with silicone. I set the pan up on the milling machine, indicated it and went 2mm oversized. Then I made a tap guide like the one in your kit and tapped the hole. The valve worked perfect and now no more worries of stripping threads at lube joints. Should amyone wantong to try out a valve. A Japanese company makes them amd a Chinese outfit os making knockoffs. I urge that the price is only a couple of bucks more for the better one. Caveat Emptor. My plan B was to have it TIG welded. My buddy tha welder was planning on making the plug from a better grade of aluminium that would have stronger threads. That option would have cost more, but still way cheaper than a new Mopar pan from the dealer.
@@GoatzombieBubba If you have a Walmart using an impact gun in the lower bay, tell us where. We use a torque wrench to snug the plug after putting it in finger tight. We do have cars with messed up plugs come to us after a quick oil change service has had their hands on them.
@@steveallen2558 Halloween we had a car come in, threads came out with the plug, a fast lube sticker in her window, manager decided to buy an oversized plug for her. Over sized plug didn't work. Manager decided to buy a new oil pan for her, told her have it installed and we would reimburse for the work. At least our store goes WAY beyond anything I have ever seen to satisfy customers. I think we go too far sometimes.
Hello Eric, I flush the pans with diesel as it flows through quicker for a cleaner rinse. And a gallon is cheaper than oil. Good video. Take Care. Doug
Well, not so simple if your owner's manual doesn't have the torque value b/c they just assume you're going to take it to the dealer. But there are ways of getting it. And I'm glad I did because it's almost half of what I've seen with other engines. I suspect an aluminum pan.
hondatrix Although I’m not a pro, I’ve literally done hundreds of oil changes on aluminum oil pans and never come close to stripping the threads. I always torque to spec. I still think over tightening somewhere in the car’s history is the root problem. That said, I appreciate my steel oil pans where I still torque to spec but don’t worry about it as much.
I think a *lot* of shops do not replace the drain plug washer, and have to really crank 'em down to compensate for the crush washer that's already been crushed.
In the defense of the "brilliant" lube techs of the world, the threads do stretch over time from being loosened/retorqued. But every time I get a work order with an oil change on it and I see a Jiffy Lube sticker, I cringe.....
2 Accords 1985 to 2006 and a CR-V 2006 to 2016 all traded in with original drain plugs. Always change the crush washer with an ALum. one. Aluminum in the colonies.
I believe Dorman do do a stripped oil pan thread repair kit but it's just a bung made of cheddar cheese that you tap into the hole and hope for the best.
I know this is an old video but my "repair" consisted of a spark plug helicoil insert which is M14*1.25mm (drain plug was M14*1.5mm). I then knocked out the center of an old sparkplug and welded up the resulting hole. Works great. I probably would do it on my new Hondu Passport though..:)
**PLEASE READ**
**NO, THE OIL PAN IS NOT CRACKED, IT IS JUST A CASTING MARK IN THE ALUMINIUM**
*TIME-SERT M14 X 1.50 Metric Drain Plug Kit #1415C: amzn.to/2DEFeSf
*M14 X 1.50 X 12.7mm Time-Sert Insert Part # 14155: amzn.to/2BnYHoE
Love those Time-Serts. I've had great experience with them in soft aluminum. And, thanks for posting the correct size. Definitely want to measure twice, buy once.
Ah-loo-min-e-um.
@@hugglescake Al = Playdo.
Hey Eric I have a little tip you may already know about but when I have done this I always put a nice glob of silicone on the bit you use to cut that way a lot of the shavings will stick to the grease and not get in the pan
Just use a shop vac to suck it out...nothing like a good suck on the job...
After successfully stripping a drain plug thread today who do I find with a 3 year old video to save the day Mr O, thank you sir for being a saviour yet again in my TH-cam quest for knowledge.
A little tip I was taught was to put a little grease on bit and taps keeps metal shavings stuck to grease not fall in pan
GOES TO SHOW THAT JIFFY LUBE FUCKS UP CARS AND SUVS ALL THE TIME
200 FOR OIL CHANGE DOESNT DO IT
SCUMBAGS
arent you a smart cookie miss Tiffany 😁
Yup, great idea 👍
@@ekop1778 I worked for them. I always took constant care to not over tighten an oil drain plug. If it was stripped, the customer was informed.
My favorite thing about these videos is how every car has “the big {insert displacement here} motor in it.” Whether it be a 1.6 or a 5.0 every motor is “the big” motor
They are all bigger than the one in my lawnmower.
@@TheLpjoe Lawnmower's bigger than my weedwhacker.
I have yet to see an engine on this channel smaller than my 87hp 2.0 turbo diesel, so everything here is big in my eyes 😂😂
😂 I laugh everytime
@@jhsevs he did a 1.4L Buick oncore one time
I saw this many times in my 40 years as senior tech at a large Honda dealership. The factory drain plug for aluminum pans is longer than normal so as to distribute the load over more threads but many oil change shops will replace a perfect drain plug with a shorter one (just to sell a plug) and then likely overtighten it as well, stripping the hole. In my opinion, if you use the proper plug and reasonable torque you will never deform or strip a pan, steel or aluminum.
Also, let me say that I am highly impressed by your diagnostic abilities and knowledge of so many brands and models! I had the luxury of only having to know and work on one brand and I felt lucky for that. I'm really enjoying your attitude and personality and wish you the best of everything.
I have five 1970-2004 vehicles and Mrs. Cusser has a 2014 Yukon, all purchased used. Only I change the oil on these, and I've not yet had a stripped-out oil pan needing such repair.
Eric never ceases to amaze me, how he tackles any job, anywhere. A true pro mechanic. Only wish he'd live near by to fix my family's cars. Keep up the excellent work.
G'day, Mr. O! Great video... "Stripped Oil Pan Bolt Hole Repair." Basically, drained the oil (I've let as much of it drip out as possible), added axle grease to the flutes of the tap, then used the back of a hex socket to drive the tap, and used a wrench to hold the hex end. Went slowly, a few turns, then back, then repeat.
Turns out, the aluminum used in the oil pan is softer than plastic and the tap does an efficient job of cutting new threads. These kits are a lifesaver. It doesn't help that the oil drain hole's threads are aluminum and the drain bolt is steel.
Cheers! 😊🛠❤️✌🏼
When I do repairs of these types and I have to thread into a motor case I will fill the flutes of the tap with grease. This helps hold all the metal shavings from getting into the motor. Great video!
not an uncommon issue with the honda v6, we have 3 kits at the honda dealer i work at, there is a class on using the kit(time-sert) in the honda online class, still really appreciate this video, ive only ever done a timesert once, but still nice to see a refresher on how to use it, i know the quick lube has torque wrenches to help prevent this issue because from what ive heard, its people tightening the drain plug too tight on the oil changes, funny thing is that only quick lube has the torque wrenches, not the service techs, lol, thanks for the video Eric! happy turkey day!
Forget the hate from certain 'armchair' mechanics 🔧 that seemed like a bona fide repair and you saved your customer quite a sum. Have been lucky enough to never have come across a stripped plug, but knowledge is power 👊💥
I greatly enjoy your channel, I have been a mechanic for over 40 years and have been retired for 10 years now, watching you almost makes me want to go back out of retirement again. If I lived in your area I would bring my vehicles to you but I live 5000 miles away but I have a Son that lives close to you and I have recommended you to him.
And that's why I've done every single oil change on my truck myself.
Exactly! Damn those quick oil change places. They're quick because "they don't go slow to go fast!"
Nobody's going to care as much about your car as you will.
Yup. They tight it with the impact gun 100%.
I work at a small quick oil change place, we don't use imapcts on anything except tires. When I insert the drain plug back in i torque it to 25 foot pounds, and after the car is started we retorque. Oil filters are only put on by hand only!
don't give all of us a bad name. However i have broken a few regular sockets with a breaker bar on cars that come in that have went to other oil change places.
Same here, except for when I was too ill to DIY.
I love how you always show your viewers new cool tools to use. Defiantly better than any tap I’ve seen .
I just recently found your channel and it been going back through your videos.
Shops like yours take me back to my first job as a mechanic, these days diagnosis and actual repair are a lost art.
It's good to see that a shop like yours and a mechanic like yourself is still out there.
This is by far, one of the most informative and entertaining auto repair channels on TH-cam.
Damn. Thanks for the idea, Eric. The oil drain plug in my 04 Neon R/T's pan is on the verge of stripping out, and i've been thinking of what to do in the next week or two when i have to do the oil change. I change the oil every 3000 miles, and the engine is in good shape for 221,000 miles. It's very clean inside, found out when the timing belt broke 2000 miles early, and bent some valves. Rebuilt the head and put it back on, and she's been purring ever since (broke in March of 2017). Fyi for those who want to know, i put an average of at least 240 miles a week on my car, is why i change the oil every 3000 miles. Cheap insurance and the engine lasts a very long time. Btw, Happy thanksgiving to you and your family, Eric.
Very neat solution, thanks.
My son once rounded off the plug and could not remove it, I came round to sort it, it was well rounded. I showed him my chisel, and explained you really need to get this on your first shot, bang, and it shifted.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
if you miss grab a pair of vise grips and get it on tight and wack with a hammer.
Thanks for the timely video, Eric. I had received my kit 5 days prior and it was the confidence boost I needed to proceed with the repair. My biggest apprehension was cuttings remaining in the pan but that doesn’t ever seem to be an issue in your experience.
I just did this repair to my 06 Odyssey and it worked very well. I had the front of the van up on ramps during this process, and used the Timecert 1415C kit (Amazon $131).
I was a bit nervous in keeping the drill, counterbore, and tap square to the drain plug surface on the pan. TIP: I didn’t have square sockets but 13mm, 11mm, and 10mm 12 point sockets worked perfect to drive the tools.
There is limited working room when the repair is done in-situ and keeping the tools aligned benefits from some skill and experience. If you are a novice I recommend having you service technician perform the work as the consequence can be a very expensive oil pan replacement.
The tap guide helped somewhat to keep the tap aligned, but working with the car on a lift would provide a much better perspective on the angles involved.
Once the insert was installed (which looks awesome btw) the original plug (with a new crush washer) went in square and leak-free. TIP - as per the instructions do liberally apply heavy grease to the tap to entrap the cuttings, which are quite fine when cut. When I pulled out the tap it was deeply coated with 3/4 inch of cuttings. My observation is that the drill and the counterbore ( on which no grease was applied) rejected its cuttings outside the pan very effectively and very little to none went into the pan.
With the work now completed, I poured two quarts of 5W-30 I had on hand (with the drain plug uninstalled) to purge any aluminum debris. I briefly thought about installing the plug, adding 4-5 quarts of oil, and then draining it, but thought that the movement of that much oil into the pan at one time might relocate debris to corners of the pan which may not drain well.
With four fresh quarts of 5W-20 I started the engine and checked for leaks and listened for strange or unfamiliar sounds - of which there seemed many! I was probably just very sensitive to the situation and, after 3 days and 50 miles of diving, the only consequence of note is no oil leak!
@@MarkAwainy I took my time so about two hours. It could be done in less than in hour the second time. Note: Even though I tried to be extremely careful, I didn’t quite square up the die when I cut my threads while on my back. As a result my drain plug isn’t quite flush with the pan and a very slow leak occurs. I’ll redo it on a lift… one day. Better than replacing the pan though.
The aluminum chips will make their way up to the cylinders walls and fill in any gaps
@@JulioSanchez-l7o I liberally smeared grease on the tap to hold the chips in place and cleaned them out every turn. No issue at all.
Greetings from little old Denmark.🇩🇰
I bought a cheap kit with oversize drain plugs, copper gaskets and a thread tap for about 15$ for my Citroen xsara 2.0 hdi coal roller with alloy pan , greased up the tap for catching the shavings and i tapped it, works perfect.
Thanks for some great tips and tricks 🙌🏻👍🏻
I've had to do this on oil pans and trans pans that are not fully removable with the k-member in the car. Not sure if it's kosher, but I would drain or suck out all the fluid into a new container. Do a drill & re-thread (for instance turning M14x1.5 into a M16x1.5, basically making the same threads deeper/larger diameter), then pour the entire batch of old fluid back in the car to drain out. I figure it was just in the car, and I got a free bucket of fluid that's perfect for the job just sitting there. Then seal it up and put new fluid in.
Ahhh good free tip Friday... on a Wednesday! Ohhhh and about that 1/2 anvil for my IR thunder gun. Any chance on making that happen!? I made a nice little Astro Tools vid today... not trying to bribe ya or anything... ok I am 😏
@@SouthMainAuto I'm not saying we can be bribed.... but I'm sending it on its way just by coincidence :)
Are you saying re-thread the aluminum and maybe ending up with the same problem later? I think the steel insert is the better way to go.
@@KStewart-th4sk Absolutely. As usual, the right tool for the job is always the best route.
Hey Astro
I have the nano 3/8 and 1/2 impact from South Main Auto Amazon. Loved it so much bought the socket set. Great tools. Just did my upper and lower ball joints and tie rods on my Jeep 2008. As we say in Boston...Wicked easy with Astro Pneumatic impact guns.
I have dealt with such issues before. I just simply replace the oil pan. But thanks to the SMA for showing such repaired.
Watched all of this for some reason, fully confident that I'll never have to do it, lol. But your knowledge and skill is undeniable.
Awesome advice. I bought the kit and did the job. No more leaks.
The Local Jiffy Lube type garage changed the oil in my wife's Pilot. Shortly after I found small leak in my garage. I attempted change oil and found a large goop of yellow seal all over the plug. It also had the larger plug that cuts into the oil pan along with 1 metal washer and 1 plastic washer. She didn't recall them saying they had to fix a leak.
Needless to say I will be doing all of her oil changes going forward.
I had an 2007 Odyssey and was talked into a whole new oil pan since mine stripped out. 4 years too late for me watching this video. Thanks Mr. O next time I'll remember this video!
Also the family and I are in town and need the first oil change in my 2018 Highlander if your free! We are visiting my mom in Bath
Give me a call at the shop Friday :)
Great to see a professional mechanic that "fixes" things instead of just "remove and replace", hard to find now days.
Another job well done. I have really enjoyed watching you in all your videos. Your old school mechanic's skills and knowledge reminds me of the knowledge and skills that my dad has passed on to me , not to mention your ability to diagnose newer computer controlled vehicles. My dad was a certified GM mechanic and also owned his own garage when I was a young boy. I am 49 now and still use what my dad taught me when I work on my personal cars. We have spent many hours together in the garage working on various car repairs from transmissions to complete engine builds and everything in between. Keep up the good work; the knowledge that your videos give to others is invaluable. My favorite video was when you rebuilt the "non-rebuildable" viscous coupler on the 2006 Kia Sportage. I knew you were a quality mechanic and a even better person for rebuilding it and saving your customer big bucks.
That was my favorite video by far too.
Thanks for the tip - will watch that one next!
Mr.O. When I first started watching your videos, I noticed you are a fun loving good person. The way you tease Mrs. O Just to have some fun.Then when you repaired the scooter for a local Vet. That was a wonderful. Now the car. You and the S.M.A. family are a fine bunch. I wish You all a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a HAPPY NEW YEAR
The Buick had "the big 3.8" in it, the Suzuki had "the big 3.6" in it, the Toyota 4Runner just had "the 3-4" in it, and now this Hondoo has "the big 3.5" in it. After a long time waiting, the results are in. Engines with a displacement of 3.5 and up are big.
I installed a Fumoto drain valve on the current and previous two vehicles I had. Best investment ever. No more wrenches needed for oil changes!
my roommate had the same kit because he was a honda person and when my honda stripped the the oil drain plug we had it fixed in no time
Years ago I took a Honda Prelude Si I had recently bought to one of those quick lube places. They did the same thing to it. And in typical fashion when I found the leak the next day and went back they would not own up to the damages or cover the repairs. I learned no matter how good a coupon deal is do it yourself or pay a real mechanic to change the oil.
Now I have a diesel Jeep with an Aluminum oil pan and a really short threaded plug. I installed Fumoto valve on the first oil change with that. Makes it so easy and no worries about stripped oil pans.
Criticism: you make everything look too dang easy!
Love the channel and the way you incorporate your family at times!
Thanks for the video, I’m going through the same problem with a 1995 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 I just bought . Same oversized leaking plug . I was looking at time sert and think I’ll go the same route ! Thanks again !
Good luck!
Installed a Valvomax valve in my 2017 Ridgeline to avoid this very problem. First vehicle I've owned that had an aluminum oil pan. I don't like the idea of aluminum threads for something that has to get removed repeatedly.
Try a plastic one! I have a (pre owned) 2018 F150 with one and surprise surprise, the drain plug is leaking. I'm getting ready to order a steel one to replace it. It boggles my mind that anyone would think that is a good idea.
@@MrMoto655 the newer hemi engines have plastic pans too. Yeah it seems dumb but at least it wouldn't rust through like the one on my crusty Dakota
@@FixIt1975 thats true. Im fortunate enough to live in the South and clean my undercarriage religiously whenever it snows. I think I'm still just getting adjusted to new vehicles. The newest one I ever had before this one was a 98 Chevy half-ton and let me tell you, the ford makes working on that thing look like a cake walk!
That is a cool system.
Thanks! not only for the guidance on the choice of tool (time sert) but also for giving the novice the courage to give it go! Appreciate all you do.
Awesome video Eric. I just happened upon this kit on Amazon and wanted to see how it worked before I bought it. And yet again, you deliver. All techs will eventually come across a stripped drain pan and it's good to be prepared before that day comes.
Enjoy your Thanksgiving!
An old mechanic told me one time about Honda oil pan threads. Long before you do damage to the threads put up new plug-in every few years. It's the plug that's doing the damage to the threads when the plug threads get worn out. And it's been working good for me ever since
Great video, all showing the importance of having the right tools for the job, making it a sure permanent fix!👌
Seeing my fav TH-cam mechanic on my other fav's channel? Nice!!
Thank you for the recommendation. My kit came in today. Tomorrow, I'll fix the drain plug thread on my 79 Chevy Camaro and install the starter.
Thank you for saying it wasn't Jiffy Lube's fault. I work for another company that does quick lubes and this sort of thing happens at least once a week and there is usually a lot of negative words thrown at our industry even though our company's standard is to buy them a new oil pan when this happens.
R230Tuner wrench coming out, in-lbs torque wrench going back in. Yeah usually end up paying labor too unless it is fairly obvious that it was previously stripped. Otherwise we get cursed with “it was fine when it came in”
broomsterm I have personally seen that happen often at dealership service centers. Every time I buy a car I make that same argument to why I don’t want their service contract but they always talk my wife into it and then try to convince us that we need a $300 power steering flush at 20,000. Where I work is just the opposite. Everyone is paid hourly, no commission so the problem is when someone is too lazy to change an air filter that looks like it was used as a shovel or wiper blades that you could use as a whip
Casey83 The few times I have used quick-lube places, the work done was fine....but the pushy upsell, when all I wanted/needed was an oil-change, OH MY, lost my business.
The year was 1983...Took my 6000 mile '83 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe to Jiffy Lube. Man was holding the air filter in his hand telling me I needed a new one. I said no. Drove home, 45 mins. out in the country, and just felt something wasn't quite right. Pulled the air cleaner housing and found a hand full of walnut shells dumped onto both inside and outside of the filter itself.
All I can say is, that dude, or maybe me, is damn lucky he was 45 minutes away. Never been to a quick since.
Actually it was 1985 and 1985 Turbo Coup.
I’ve finally caught up with watching ur videos. Only recently discovered this channel, have been binge watching all the videos. Now I’m stuck waiting for new ones
That's a spot on repair :-D, it looks like a bloody horrible space to do that job.
You just saved your customer a bucket of cash, hopefully they will appreciate it.
Again, showing us what a real mechanic does instead of taking the easy way out...
Love your work 👍
There are hundreds of well documented reasons to avoid the express/quick/minute lube places. In many cases silently they harm vehicles in a variety of ways as they did this one. If you can't change your own oil use a trusted mechanic not some profit hungry franchised chain hiring minimum wage flunkies where the owner sits at home spending their ill gotten profits. Your diagnostic vids are the most fun but it's also good to have how-to videos with recommended procedures like this one.
So true.
Never even knew of those kits, but also for the past 15yrs, just tapped them with the self etching plugs, and did what you did with a quart to clean the pan after.
Have a good Thanksgiving bro.
Another great informative video that helps so many of us "weekend mechanics" - thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Got a link for that multi speed ratchet?
LOL,LOL,lol...
I need one of them hummingbird models also
Actually, Eric is a descendant of Flash Gordon.....................
That's all hand action. Comes in handy when the wife has a "headache."
You should watch this at 2x speed.
You are so amazingly fast at ratcheting! I was just mesmerized watching you! Great job! Thanks for the tremendous information!
ahh..you realize the tape is sped up?
@@Georgeeboy , nah, really!? Duh!
@@TheWoodman064 just checkin
@@Georgeeboy no problem! I did it as a joke but should have clarified that!
Happy Thanksgiving, my brutha, and your family! 🍻
I got introduced to Time-Serts back in '99 when I started at MMI, Phoenix. Not long after I moved into the house here, I bought a complete metric kit - it was HUGE $$$, but has saved my bum a hundred times on so many jobs. I've actually only used a Helicoil ONCE in my life! There is nothing better than Time-Sert, IMO, for thread repair - the insert will always be the stronger than the material it's threaded into. 👍👍
I hear the ol' heater firing up in the background - I'd be lying If I told you I wasn't jealous, LOL. I've been working in a balmy 35°F all week! The torpedo heater ran out of kerosene (it's a ONE-fuel heater) ... and the place I used to buy it from decided to dig their tank out of the ground the DAY BEFORE I attempted to get some. Just my luck, I tell ya!! The black stove pipe arrived from Menard's for my waste oil burner - hoping to get that thing hooked up soon. Slowly getting caught up. Have to bore a hole through the new building and siding for the insulator - that's gonna be real fun. It's about 10" in diameter, and my hands don't work all that well when they're that cold.. Single digit forecast for tonight and tomorrow night. Shop will be in the low 20's - that's far below my cold tolerance, no matter how warm I dress. 35° I can deal with, but brake clean just HURTS at those temps. Once the Face Melter is hooked up, it'll be 85° in there regardless of the outdoor temp, if I let it run non-stop. 😁
Haha happy turkey day to you too man! Soooo have you been getting a good collection of waste oil stocked up!? If not add it to your ta-do list cuz from the sounds of it your gonna need it! My CNG furnace only runs about $800 a month when it gets real cold. I keep it 63 in there and that is very comfy for me. 85!? You'll be sweating like me trying to help my 5th grader do his homework!
@@SouthMainAuto - LOL, oh I'd be soaked at 85°, for sure! Since the barn has been so full of junk for so long, I haven't used the oil burner in almost 2 years, so I've got probably 200 gallons of used oil kicking around here. I won't really keep it at 85°, especially with no insulation - I bet I'd go through 200 gallons in a few weeks keeping it that warm, LOL! If I dress warm I can handle 55°-60°. The problem with the Face Melter is, even on it's lowest possible setting (without losing the fire), depending on the outside temp, it's difficult to keep the building from getting TOO warm. On those days I have to shut it down ... but then in a few hours, I start getting chilled again. I'll end up spending more time fooling with the heat than I will getting anything done, so I'll just peel off layers and let it fly. :)
Nicely done Eric.I am a mechanic.I have done spark plugs holes a lot.On spark plug holes I drop the piston down.Fill the cylinder with
shaving cream.The Alum sits on top of the soap.When done turn the motor over pushes the soap and Alum.out the hole.I use a vacuum
hose on a shaving can.Running oil thru to get the Alum out of the pan will do the trick.
Timesert saved my bee-hind when a plug blew out on my 4.6 Lincoln Mark VIII. Used only what I needed and recovered about 75% what I paid for the $400 kit.
Yes! That's the application I'm familiar with when using Time serts.
@@CubasAutomotive the precision, heavy duty-cut tools in that kit were amazing. It's like I was handling some kind of rare kryptonite. After using just once, it still looked like I hadn't used it.
@@FortyTwoAnswerToEverything My local mechanic, that we had used for over 20 years at the time, used a TImesert to repair a bolt cracked in the block when we had to replace the leaking water pump on a car we bought used. It's not normal to do that kind of work on an old car, but we were between a rock and a hard place. The job held up tremendously well, for many thousands of miles. Eventually the old Pontiac was no longer worth saving, but I remember the repair well.
in ERIC'S behalf,he said he was pouring a qt of oil thru it to flush after the machine work,evidently you didn't hear him,i did,i have so many credentials in this trade i'll not debate you period,i teach,we'll leave it at that,this repair,is a prefect repair,i watched the whole video,these are mainly for the diy,or drive way mech,so he doesn't get lost,when I worked on the line and in shops,we had nationally 45 cars per day, per man,when you have that much potential work,looking for speedy repairs is all of it,ERIC I've said before your drivability skills are impressive,your expertise on various models is refreshing,i hate working on the same thing,and I know you like the suspense,carry on superwrench
Happy Thanksgiving to the Family of SMA
I am so happy I found your page and this particular video. Stripped drain pan on my vehicle and was not happy! Purchased the Time-Sert Kit and followed your directions and all is good! Thanks a million!
SMA Socks on the merch site!!! Haha!!! Hope you and the family have a great Thanksgiving! Nothing makes the crappy Ohio weather better than a new SMA video!
I have used this kit also. Good video. One thing I use to do xtra was put red thread lock on an insert and give an hour to dry. Some uses industrial strength JB weld quick dry.
Second kit i used is for BMW and Benz only. That works good on honda too. This kit makes a new oversize threads on the pan and comes with its own magnetic drain plug. Kit used in this video is more durable though. I like your commentary.
What do you use for the bimmer? I cannot use the kit in this video because on my bmw oil pan the bolt screws into an extrusion and a small section of the extrusion is just open so when you remove the bolt all the oil will come out. (I hope that makes sense) .
Doing my own oil changes throughout my entire life I've never cross threaded or stripped a drain plug and I'll bet Eric never has either...
Always fixin other people's mistakes...
@@billybob042665 If by "very temporary" you mean "outlasts the vehicle" and "stronger than the original threads" then yeah, Timecerts are very temporary!
Provided proper installation, of course.
Guess it is common enough, glad i found this. I was gonna try just tapping and putting an oversized drain plug in there. This looks like a better long term solution.
Have a great Thanksgiving Mr and Mrs O family too
I’m glad you made your comments at the very end. I was wondering why you didn’t put any loctite on it but with how it seals your right.
“We’ll let it live, till it dies another day”!! 🤣
This video really saved my bacon! This is a much better fix than my original plan of just cutting new threads into the aluminum. The steel insert and kit get the job done right. Thank you!
Sweet repair! Happy Thanksgiving to you & your family!
I have used Helicoils a lot in Aircraft spark plug holes. I would always put grease on the drill bit and tap to help grab the shavings. Great Video!
I've tapped a few holes in my time. Happy Thanksgiving Love, Glen.
Did you use a reamer?
Quarter inch drive?
pkomofo more like 1 inch.
Some cleaner than others ... 🤣🤣
@@Badgertronix no time for that, right down to business.
This company makes the best repair kits for repairing stripped threads I had one for doing VW spark plugs I made a lot of money put the inserts and stripped off VW plug threads there inserts are bulletproof if you know what you're doing
Damn can you move your hand fast Holy Shit.... lol.. Thanks for sharing Eric and Hannah in the back ground...
Awesome. Getting a tap started straight in a spot like that is not easy. Well done. Thanks for the video.
only surpassed by doing it blind reach around :))
Maybe Hondoo ought not make pans out of ice-cream?
Good work! My whole body tensed up when you started cutting the threads. Such a critical moment.
In theory, I took the drain plug out of my new Honda for the first time & the last time.
I put a Fumoto Valve in there instead.
How has it been doing? Any trouble?
I loves those valves. They instantly let you know the customer works on their own car and that I’m going to find screwed up things
This is why I love Fumoto valves. Put one on my Honda many years ago and I never have to remove it again. Makes draining oil a no tools required breeze. It has never leaked a drop of oil.
How would you fix a hole in a wallet?
Duct tape obviously...
duct tape lol
Sell it and buy a Toyota instead
bigtonkakid divorce
Flex Seal
I put grease in the flutes of the tap and it catches the majority of the shavings. Thanks for the vid. Keep em coming.
Cutting fluid for aluminum, wd-40
I always thought paraffin for aluminium?
@@andrewrixon2347 Paraffin or beeswax is perfect to prevent friction welds when cutting or rolling threads in al-u-min-i-um. Then there are those pesky spark plugs.
Excellent video. Didn't know about this product. Forevermore grateful for you. Can't wait for my next trip to upstate NY.
I keep a stash of those soft plug “crush” washers so those clowns don’t over tighten the plug bolt, trying to stop it from leaking .. I believe Honda does say to replace the washer every oil change.
ideally, you'd replace the washer with every oil change, even the ones that say reusable the rubber goes away
We use the same kit at my job we have them for Honda and Toyota and few others they are amazing aslong as you install them correctly and make sure you get the insert nice and flush. Oh and to help keep the aluminum shavings out of the pan coat your bit in grease it works nice to collect all the shavings and works it through clearing out the old thread pitch easier
I've got the same kit. It works mint. I got in the habit of putting locktite on the threads before I put them in. I know it isn't nessasary but like my license plate says..... Over kll.😜
I love the timeserts. I also put locktite on.. to seal and lock it.
And the Lock-tire helps it go in the new threads a bit easier. A little lube helps everything slide in a little better.😉
I replaced mine with a fumoto valve
just don't accidentally loctite the new plug or tool into the insert..... I could see someone doing that ;)
You can't blame anyone, at least people are changing their oil. Mechanics run into this all the time and others can never figure out when a bolt is tight.
Nice tool, but wouldn’t be easier just to drill and tap to next size up? Like for m15 or m16 drain plug?
I suppose you could if you have the tap for it and an appropriate drain plug
But the problem remains. Aluminum pan with steel drain bolt that is frequently removed. Stand a very good chance of revisiting the issue in the future with the added twist of a larger hole. With the new steel threads you're good.
I agree, with Shain.
you're speaking of electrolysis ,between aluminum and steel,that's one of the purposes of greasing threads
the trick is get it in straight to have good seating for the crushwasher and do you have enough room voor a larger drain plug. 15mm bolts can be made but that is not standard let alone a tap....
I had no idea they made such tools. Learn something new everyday.
You keep saying aluminum that way you’re not gonna be able to stop. Have a great thanksgiving!
Past that point haha
What way???? Sound right to me Guv.
al-yoo-min-ee-ummmmmm
Say it how you spell it :)
I blame Canadian Josh for screwing up Eric's vocabulary
Their spark plug thread repair kits are excellent as well.
I would have left the self tapping oversize drain plug in it.
That’s prolly what I wood have done. But it’s nice to see the real way to repair it.
My neighbors 2016 kia optima was leaking a lot of oil from the drain plug so I suggested using the repair plug, we tried everything but finally I told him it would be better to just install a new oil pan, they are cheap for that car even a factory one was around 60 bucks, we got one from auto zone and it was easy to install but the original was put on with this super strong adhesive silicone, I had to heat it up carefully to get to loosen enough to even get a putty knife in trying not to gouge the engine, it finally broke free, he's changed his oil a couple of times since and no more leaks, he bought it used from enterprise rental sales, he drives a lot mostly highway.
Always lube your tool before commencing reaming
Looks like alot of lube coming out of the hole
That's what she said.
A dab of carborundum adds a little spice
I fixed my ex's Chrysler and installed a quarter turn valve.
The shop had insisted that the only way to effectively fix it was to replace the pan. I suggested they get a self tapping oversize plug. That would have worked except they had cross threaded it. When I found it ot was goobered over with silicone.
I set the pan up on the milling machine, indicated it and went 2mm oversized. Then I made a tap guide like the one in your kit and tapped the hole. The valve worked perfect and now no more worries of stripping threads at lube joints.
Should amyone wantong to try out a valve. A Japanese company makes them amd a Chinese outfit os making knockoffs. I urge that the price is only a couple of bucks more for the better one. Caveat Emptor.
My plan B was to have it TIG welded. My buddy tha welder was planning on making the plug from a better grade of aluminium that would have stronger threads.
That option would have cost more, but still way cheaper than a new Mopar pan from the dealer.
Fumoto is the valve company.
Another victim of jiffy lube impact gun.
or wal-mart
@@GoatzombieBubba If you have a Walmart using an impact gun in the lower bay, tell us where. We use a torque wrench to snug the plug after putting it in finger tight. We do have cars with messed up plugs come to us after a quick oil change service has had their hands on them.
@@dwaynemadsen964 We have the same problem then we have to pay for it
@@steveallen2558 Halloween we had a car come in, threads came out with the plug, a fast lube sticker in her window, manager decided to buy an oversized plug for her. Over sized plug didn't work. Manager decided to buy a new oil pan for her, told her have it installed and we would reimburse for the work. At least our store goes WAY beyond anything I have ever seen to satisfy customers. I think we go too far sometimes.
Dwayne Madsen I thought Walmart opens the fill cap and sucks the oil out so they aren’t responsible for damages to the drain plug if they occur?
It was a lot of work, but as you said worth it compared to paying for and changing the oil pan. Thanks Eric!!
No wonder Mrs O is always smiling IF you can go that fast Eric 🤣
Hello Eric, I flush the pans with diesel as it flows through quicker for a cleaner rinse. And a gallon is cheaper than oil. Good video. Take Care. Doug
Rule #1 never take your car to a quickie lube or Walmart for an oil change.
People always say that but they never want to do it themselves.
Timesert makes the best thread repair kits. Their ford spark plug thread repair kits are top notch
Just don't over tighten them...simple..
Well, not so simple if your owner's manual doesn't have the torque value b/c they just assume you're going to take it to the dealer. But there are ways of getting it. And I'm glad I did because it's almost half of what I've seen with other engines. I suspect an aluminum pan.
@@opl500 NO, incorrect, it's actually simpler than that..You have a phone? Yes, good..search ENGINE DRAIN PLUG TORQUE GUIDE and viola....easy as pie.
hondatrix Although I’m not a pro, I’ve literally done hundreds of oil changes on aluminum oil pans and never come close to stripping the threads. I always torque to spec. I still think over tightening somewhere in the car’s history is the root problem. That said, I appreciate my steel oil pans where I still torque to spec but don’t worry about it as much.
I think a *lot* of shops do not replace the drain plug washer, and have to really crank 'em down to compensate for the crush washer that's already been crushed.
I call them Hercules
I saw a fellow load the bit with grease and that seemed to catch the chips fairly well, anyway, well done Mr. O and thanks for the video.
In the defense of the "brilliant" lube techs of the world, the threads do stretch over time from being loosened/retorqued. But every time I get a work order with an oil change on it and I see a Jiffy Lube sticker, I cringe.....
2 Accords 1985 to 2006 and a CR-V 2006 to 2016 all traded in with original drain plugs. Always change the crush washer with an ALum. one. Aluminum in the colonies.
No dorman repair kit ? Lol
No , I like the oil to stay in the pan!
I believe Dorman do do a stripped oil pan thread repair kit but it's just a bung made of cheddar cheese that you tap into the hole and hope for the best.
No, but I hear JB Weld makes one that's just about as good.
The drain plug Eric was waiting for is a Dorman
I have a lisle kit that uses a larger plug
I know this is an old video but my "repair" consisted of a spark plug helicoil insert which is M14*1.25mm (drain plug was M14*1.5mm). I then knocked out the center of an old sparkplug and welded up the resulting hole. Works great. I probably would do it on my new Hondu Passport though..:)