Lawn Fungicide Rotation Applications - Lawn Care Disease Control | DoMyOwn.com

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ย. 2024
  • goo.gl/9ys48Y ...Click here for Propiconazole 14.3 Fungicide
    goo.gl/mKevhL ...Click here for Azoxy 2SC Select Fungicide
    goo.gl/o2z7P2 ...Click here to buy the Chapin Backpack Sprayer 4 Gal. 20V Lithium Black & Decker Battery
    Fungicides have long been part of disease management in gardens, greenhouses, and lawns. Lawn diseases and garden diseases can be difficult to control and get rid of, and fungus-based diseases are no different. But getting rid of or keeping disease out of your lawn can be tricky. So in this video, we not only talk about curative vs. preventative fungicides, we go over one very important thing when it comes to fungicides; the need for fungicide rotation!
    As mentioned in the video, here is the link for our "How to Get Rid of Poa Annua" video...
    • Do My Own Lawn Care - ...
    Here are the products recommended to get rid of Poa Annua...
    goo.gl/R4Kgkz ...Hi-Yield Weed and Grass Stopper with Dimension Herbicide
    goo.gl/gxAK83 ...Dimension 2EW Herbicide
    goo.gl/G3i6RU ...Barricade 4FL Herbicide
    goo.gl/AUa7iC ...Grass Out Max (Clethodim Herbicide)
    goo.gl/Mxs1s5 ...Tenacity Herbicide
    goo.gl/GzkuTD ...Prograss EC Herbicide
    And here is the link to our "How to Apply Fungicides" video...
    • Do My Own Lawn Care - ...
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ความคิดเห็น • 99

  • @ryanknorrlawncare
    @ryanknorrlawncare 6 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Great vid! Loved that intro too.

  • @tanacastleberry7315
    @tanacastleberry7315 6 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Way to go on episode 50!!! Great videos! That backyard is looking fabulous!

    • @RA1-1
      @RA1-1 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      That backyard is looking very good!

  • @jeffsmith825
    @jeffsmith825 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Interesting. On my bentgrass putting greens I'll actually mix multiple fungicide classes into the same tank and spray at the same time. We are rotating as you mentioned, but I find spraying multiple fungicides does best. The different fungicides actually attack the disease cell structures in different ways to inhibit them so applying different groups at the same time just increases your effectiveness in my experience. We apply every 7-10 days depending on the time of year. Research everything before applying please, no reason to waste money, time and effort just spraying whatever you see first!

  • @davidgroves501
    @davidgroves501 6 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    it looked like it took about 5 days to spray the backyard, the way the clouds kept covering the sun. LOL

  • @jequitygroup4108
    @jequitygroup4108 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I like how you spray side to side. Seems like I don't do too well trying to spray walking in straight lines. I'll give it a try!

  • @1love1dove
    @1love1dove หลายเดือนก่อน

    Does over application caused by overlaps of fungicide burns lawn? Do i need to water fungicide in after application? cos i didn't see no watering after application in this video.

  • @CDAndrews
    @CDAndrews 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Glad you got the ol' PC running again ;)

    • @CDAndrews
      @CDAndrews 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Also... #TeamSprayMontage #TeamTankMixing

  • @shane6002
    @shane6002 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Your videos are very informative keep it up learning alot Put down my Memorial day Milo today

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you very much for watching and commenting. Glad you are enjoying the content and it is helping. That milo app will make your yard pop!

  • @jeffsmith825
    @jeffsmith825 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    For a home lawn, I might also be integrating a granule fungicide into my rotation. I use a group 11 granule anytime I'm applying a mix of group 3&5 liquid fungicides to my fairways. I use a syngenta product called Heritage G but I'm sure there are others that may be less expensive. We will lightly irrigate the granules following application and then apply the spray mix. It's only three times a year the 11,3,5 combination but I haven't had dollar spot or grey leaf spot on my fairways in years. Grey leaf is similar to dollar spot in it's appearance. Both are not sightly and all and a pain to deal with if they get a foothold.

  • @LawnTips
    @LawnTips 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Loved this video legend!! Solid solid info

    • @LawnTips
      @LawnTips 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      P.s. welcome back my friend

    • @theCastleberry
      @theCastleberry 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks my lawn care brother from down under! It has been WAY too long since uploading. Feels good to be back on the horse!

  • @anthonyj.barton4032
    @anthonyj.barton4032 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    You can add fertilizer and a herbicides as well during your Fungicide application.

  • @andrewhall8821
    @andrewhall8821 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Haha, that answers my sprayer comment from the last video! (playing catch up this spring, my bad!)

  • @spierotti14
    @spierotti14 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Sorry if I missed it but why cant you mix both fracs into 1 application? Also can you over fungicide like you can over fertilize? Thanks for the videos!

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Great question. You can mix two fracs if you want to use a contact and systemic. But using two classes that would be used as rotation partners you wouldn't do. You can't over fungicide to kill grass like fertilizers would but you can cause the fungus to build up resistance quicker.

  • @willielombos9352
    @willielombos9352 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi, I'm noticing that my tall fescue lawn is yellowing. When I look closer, there are yellow spots on the blades of my grass. In your video, it's mostly to inform how to prevent fungus development. But in my case, I already have noticeable spots in 25% of my lawn. What do you recommend with eradicating existing/developed fungus in my lawn? would you recommending putting down Group 11 Fungicide, first? If so, what is the rate in which I should apply the Azoxy 2SC?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      We would recommend starting with Clearys 3336, then rotate to either Azoxy 2SC or Eagle 20EW. If you go with Clearys, you will most likely need to go 4 ounces per 1,000 and with the Azoxy, it should be dead at that point, but go at it with a .4 ounce per 1,000 rate.
      www.domyown.com/clearys-3336f-fungicide-p-1345.html

  • @derrickmccutchen427
    @derrickmccutchen427 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What happens if it rains? Do you reapply?

  • @kevinsears6346
    @kevinsears6346 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great information!

  • @Doc452007
    @Doc452007 9 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Does the liquid work better than granuals like Disease ex? Thanks

    • @domyown
      @domyown  5 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

      For the most part, granule vs liquid fungicides can work pretty equally to control turf diseases. However if you have a disease that is more on the leaf surface of the blade or starts near the tip of the grass rather than at the base/root or in the soil, you may find that a liquid formula gives better coverage and control initially if the disease is already heavily present. The biggest factor in disease control and prevention is applying the right ingredients for the disease you have, using the correct use rates per the label instructions, and treating at the correct intervals during the season to prevent fungal spores and prevent further spread in the lawn.

  • @DBrengartner
    @DBrengartner 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Love the information provided in all of your videos. Very valuable to rookies like myself. My entire backyard has been overtaken by some sort of fungus and has just about killed it off or at least it appears that way. I threw down some granular Lawn Fungus Control by Scott’s at a 3lb per 1000 sq.ft. Then sprayed Propiconazole at a rate of 2.4 oz per 1000 sq.ft. All of what to be a curative rate for Lord knows what kind has completely devastated my lawn. When should I throw something else down to hopefully salvage what’s left and what kind of fungicide should I use? I thought about 7 days later hitting with some granular Azoxystrobin (DiseaseEX) and Myclobutanil at 2.4 oz. per 1000 sq.ft. What do ya think about that strategy? The only thing I can tell ya is that the fungus started off with few brown spots grouped together in a circular pattern. Each morning tiny little webs all over the blades of grass nearby. Then after fighting what I thought were grubs turns out to be a fungus. Please help and thanks again for the videos. God bless!

    • @domyown
      @domyown  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Without knowing which specific disease you are treating, it’s hard for us to make an accurate recommendation for you. However, it is important to rotate not only active ingredients but also classes of chemistry that you are using every 2-3 applications. Usually you will apply fungicides every 2-4 weeks as needed, depending on the length of time each product lasts (reapplication timing is always on the label).
      Be mindful that myclobutanil and propiconazole are actually both Group 3 fungicides, so those two are not considered a rotation. The first Scotts product you use may have thiophanate-methyl in it, which is a usually a great active ingredient if you are already seeing disease damage, so you can use that or another product with that active ingredient if you’ve only applied it once. (Clearys is a great choice: www.domyown.com/clearys-3336f-fungicide-p-1345.html)
      It sounds like you may be dealing with dollar spot. The tiny web-like things sound like the mycelia of the fungus. You can compare what you are seeing with our identification guide for this disease here: www.domyown.com/dollar-spot-identification-guide-a-544.html
      You can also check out all our lawn disease guides here: www.domyown.com/lawn-care-guides
      As always, please feel free to call us with any questions at 866-581-7378. Thanks for watching!

    • @peupeuguy310
      @peupeuguy310 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Can these fungicides be added to the hose end bootle type sprayers ?

  • @Methodical2
    @Methodical2 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thanks for the information.. I've seen where others suggested mixing 2 fungicides to prevent resistance, but not alternating. I will go with the alternation method and the timing is perfect as I just put down my 2nd application of the Myclobutanil this week. Before I order the Propiconazole, I have a question.
    Question. I do not see a FRAC number on the Myclobutanil bottle, so do these 2 fungicides attack differently and therefore will be good partners for the alternation method?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for watching and commenting. As for your questiomns, No, Myclo and Prop are in the same grouping class 3 fungicides. Use Azoxystrobin this is a group 11 and will work well with the Eagle.

    • @Methodical2
      @Methodical2 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks. You saved me some money - haha!

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      That's what we are all about! Glad we could help. Please let us know if you have anymore questions.

    • @lambert1702
      @lambert1702 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Keep in mind that Azoxystrobin does not control dollar spot. Another fungicide you can rotate is Cleary's 3336, which is a group 1.

  • @chrisbrown6697
    @chrisbrown6697 ปีที่แล้ว

    What was the punk rock song and band playing at the end while you spray

    • @domyown
      @domyown  ปีที่แล้ว

      The song is called "Beyond They Sons" by Punk Fonk. It's a copyright free tune used in our videos, glad you liked it!

  • @stopmytime9421
    @stopmytime9421 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Can you put a fungicide down after fertilizing with nitrogen?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Great question! It all depends on the fungus/disease you are trying to get rid of. What are you tackling? Some diseases will be fueled by the fertilizer while others will not. Brown patch, for example will be encouraged to grow if you put down a high nitrogen fertilizer, while something like dollar spot will not. The fungicides themselves should not be effected by the fertilizer.

  • @Supanova70
    @Supanova70 ปีที่แล้ว

    When did you water this in?

  • @xraydesigns3880
    @xraydesigns3880 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Do you know what I can use to get rid of centipede grass that is starting to invade my bermuda lawn?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      For the Centipede use a broadleaf weed control that is labeled for bermuda and not for centipede, and do a spot treatment with the weed control.
      www.domyown.com/speedzone-lawn-weed-killer-concentrate-p-1515.html

  • @ncvman
    @ncvman 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Progress ec for poanna grass is great but expensive as heck. Why not use armada 50 wdg? It is class 3 and 11 in one. Saves you money and time. I apply once a month when night time temperatures are above 70 degrees. Usually 3 to 4 applications per summer.

    • @domyown
      @domyown  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Armada 50 WDG is a fungicide not herbicide like the Prograss EC is so they are not used in place of another.

    • @ncvman
      @ncvman 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@domyown you had spoken about two separate issues in your video. 1) poanna 2) fungicide types
      I addressed both. Prograss ec for poanna and armada 50 for fungicide type 3 and 11

  • @mtrotts5578
    @mtrotts5578 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    The label says to W ait 12 hrs before enfering the treated area is this right

  • @dapperlink
    @dapperlink 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    What's the name/songwriter of your intro music? I know this sounds crazy, but I listened to that song so much over the years, while I was waiting for a conference calls that I think it's stuck in my head. May as well know who it is :-).

  • @LawnDad
    @LawnDad 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great video! Does do my own have any class 11’s in a ready to spray hose application bottle?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      We don't sell any hose end sprayers for the class 11's but we do have it in a granular form if you don't want a concentrate.
      www.domyown.com/heritage-fungicide-p-1343.html

    • @LawnDad
      @LawnDad 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Okay thank you.

  • @quedogkualum
    @quedogkualum 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Do you have to water in the product? I have the same fungicide.

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Most fungicides need to be watered in to knock the fungicide off the leaf surface and make their way to the soil surface. All granular fungicides most certainly need to be watered in to activate with the exception of foliage fungus like Dollar spot, you wouldn't need to water the liquid applications. Hope that helps. Let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching and commenting.

  • @cielosinluna
    @cielosinluna 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello, I have a question. I am a cold season grass. this is the first time I am taking care of my lawn. I noticed some brown patches disease and dollar spots. You talk about prevention, should I do the fungicide or should I wait to fall or spring since is summer already?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Start now! You will need to go at the higher rates to stop the disease in its tracks, then get on a prevention plan from there.

  • @6atlantis
    @6atlantis 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    What is the best product for new grass that most likely has take all root rot or a diff fungus from too much water intake. Best product from a big box store and a local dealers?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      The first thing you need to do in this case is make sure you are not over-watering the lawn. We have a lot of great broad-spectrum fungicides. Please call us at 866-581-7378 for assistance determining the best product for your needs. Of course, we do not know what may be available to you locally; we are a retailer and will always recommend the great products that we offer, always with free shipping right to your door!

  • @desotolawncaresolutions4989
    @desotolawncaresolutions4989 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Came across your channel. New sub

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you so much!

  • @Johnny53kgb-nsa
    @Johnny53kgb-nsa 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Do you have to use a sticker fungicide added when using Propiconazole?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      The Propiconazole 14.3 product label does not state to use a surfactant for the application therefore we do not see the reason to do so.

  • @michaelperry4398
    @michaelperry4398 ปีที่แล้ว

    Is rotating from class 3 to 11 enough rotation

    • @domyown
      @domyown  ปีที่แล้ว

      Because plants can also quickly become immune to the active ingredients in fungicides. Once immune, the fungicide will not work as intended or will stop working altogether. For this reason, it is important to rotate fungicide applications between different modes of action. To help prevent resistance, after 1-2 treatments with one fungicide, you would rotate to a new fungicide in a different FRAC group.

  • @erinlee9053
    @erinlee9053 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    when do you water this class 3 or 11 in--as soon as you finish spraying fungicide or wait 24 hours and then water in with sprinklers or rain? How much water does it need to be activated? thanks

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      At least a quarter inch of water and 24 hours later is best, depending on the type of fungus you are treating for.

  • @mgfons
    @mgfons 6 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Instead of a trying to grow a cold season grass in your warm climate, wouldn't it be easier to grow a warm season grass? I don't believe you would need to spray fungicide so frequently if you planted grass that was suited for your local climate.

    • @theCastleberry
      @theCastleberry 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      I guess it boils down to personal preference. Yes it would be easier to grow a warm season grass here in GA, but I really love the look of Turf Type Tall Fescue. You are right, if I had a warm season grass I would not need to spray fungicides so frequently. Matter of fact, it would be half the work if I had a warm season grass in the back. But, again, I really like the look of TTTF and do not mind putting in the extra work it takes to keep it back there. Besides all of that, this is a pretty standard way of applying fungicides in any turf in any zone. Thanks for watching and commenting.

  • @saul5799
    @saul5799 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Does Eagle 20EW need to be watered/irrigated after being applied/ sprayed? Read all the info and couldn’t find anything. I’ve heard yes and I’ve heard no- I’m not sure what to do. Thanks

    • @domyown
      @domyown  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Eagle will absorb through the plants, so you don’t need to water it into the ground. You can use a higher volume of water if you are treating for root or crown rot diseases, so really the volume of water used depends on the target disease. Let us know if you have other questions. Thanks for watching!

    • @saul5799
      @saul5799 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      DoMyOwn, just missed your message by few hours. I applied and watered in about 1/2 inch as instructed over the phone. Perhaps I was given wrong info over the phone. Will the application be ineffective since I immediately watered it in after being sprayed?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@saul5799 For soil-borne diseases, it is ok to water in your fungicide applications. For foliar disease, it is best if you do not water for about 24 hours so that the fungicide can absorb into the green tissue of the plants. You can reapply Eagle at 14-21 day intervals for most diseases.

  • @jonassx100
    @jonassx100 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    in how many days to rotate fungicide which are incompatible with each other

    • @domyown
      @domyown  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      You want to rotate fungicide classes (modes of action) at least every 2-3 applications. Most fungicides will have reapplication times between 14 and 28 days, but this will depend on the product you are applying, the target disease, the rate used, and whether you are applying the product preventatively or curatively. Be sure to follow the label directions for any fungicide you are using. Let us know if you have questions about a specific product: you can reach us at 866-581-7378 M-F 9a-5p ET.

    • @jonassx100
      @jonassx100 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@domyown well i am home gardener and i can get any fungicide pesticide u name . i currently have copper oxy ,carbendazim+mancozeb,metqlaxy +mancozeb ,Amistar top ,HEXAConazole .If i use copper oxy then in how many days i can switch to other so that it dont cause phytoxicity. Rate i use is 1-2 grams per litre on all plants

    • @domyown
      @domyown  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Reapplication intervals are going to be based on the particular disease you are treating for and the product label for the item you plan to use. Most will require a minimum of 14 days before a second product is applied when used as a curative treatment, and some will have a 21-28 day re-treatment interval for prevention. Always follow the individual label instructions for how much to use and how often based on the chemical you are using at that time.

  • @thefpvlife7785
    @thefpvlife7785 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Is fungicide toxic as let's say Roundup?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      A Fungicide is a professional grade chemical requires you to wear your PPE. Are you asking if the fungicide would harm other plants, turf and soil like Roundup?

    • @davidhintz1806
      @davidhintz1806 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      extension.psu.edu/potential-health-effects-of-pesticides
      Scroll down a bit

    • @bestgreenpest
      @bestgreenpest 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      First of all you should take the word "chemical" out of your vocabulary. They are products. And yes fungicides are very toxic for the environment and I would not be spraying them willie nillie as this guy suggests. If you want to prevent a fungicide, K-Phite is a much safer product to incorporate into a program

  • @luisf.postigo1961
    @luisf.postigo1961 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great informative video! My zoysiagrass started developing brown patches. Would you recommend applying Heritage G first then followed by Eagle 20EW?

    • @domyown
      @domyown  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It is always best to apply fungicide before a disease develops or at the first sign of damage. Eagle 20EW, especially, is best applied for brown patch before disease symptoms are apparent. Unfortunately, most contact fungicides are restricted for use on residential lawns, so always try to apply fungicide when you know conditions are favorable. Clearys 3336F is a better option than Eagle if you already see signs of disease: www.domyown.com/clearys-3336f-fungicide-p-1345.html

  • @CCCC-tq8yo
    @CCCC-tq8yo 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    What would u do. On. Zorro zoysia new sold...

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Are you wanting to put down a preventative fungicide application and if so, what type of fungus, or are you looking to put down a starter fertilizer to help establish the new sod?

    • @CCCC-tq8yo
      @CCCC-tq8yo 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      DoMyOwn I already put seaweed and kelp... Rgs... Brown patch for the most part...

    • @domyown
      @domyown  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Start with Propiconazole, then rotate to Azoxy 2sc. Between these two, it should give you good protection from both. If you can, and you do not have a problem right now, hold off and start your rotation program in the fall and then again in early spring.
      goo.gl/9ys48Y ...that is the link for the Propiconzaole
      goo.gl/mKevhL ...and that is the link for Azoxy 2SC Select Fungicide.
      Let us know if you have anymore questions! Happy to help you crush the lawn game!

  • @chriscorbray4457
    @chriscorbray4457 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You're awesome

  • @Varcuri9898
    @Varcuri9898 6 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    5:40 Did I calculate this corrrectly...he is going to make six different fungicide applications? Hmmm, yeah, that would cover it....are we being upsold?

    • @theCastleberry
      @theCastleberry 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      I am going by the label rates. I am doing a preventative application to help stop disease before it happens. Also using two different fungicides to try and stop as much as possible, again, before it happens. This is actually an industry best practice. As for the six different applications, I am actually doing 5. Two with class 3, two with class 11 and then one more with class 3. I am also using the lower dilution rate because I am doing preventative vs. curative. If I did have a disease problem, I would go with the higher rate. When using the higher rate to do a preventative app., let's say it is an additional .5 ounces, most often you are still going to get the same results as you would with the lower rate, in terms of prevention. So, using the lower rate, I am extending the life of my product and stopping lots of stuff before it happens. Hope that made sense and I wasn't rambling. I appreciate the question and concern. Thanks for watching the series and if you have any other questions, let us know!

    • @mgfons
      @mgfons 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@theCastleberry Have you considered growing a type of grass that is suited for your local climate so that you don't need to spray it at all?

    • @DK-pr9ny
      @DK-pr9ny 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes it lasts much longer than 2 weeks depending on your application rate.

  • @marklemieux2062
    @marklemieux2062 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What no dye????

    • @theCastleberry
      @theCastleberry 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I know....it felt kind of weird not mixing it up this time. Thought I would see how I do without it this go around.

  • @expert244
    @expert244 ปีที่แล้ว

    skip to 2:38

  • @CCCC-tq8yo
    @CCCC-tq8yo 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Whow were u been

  • @davidhintz1806
    @davidhintz1806 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    It's hard to believe that you shaved off your beard.

  • @thefishboyy18
    @thefishboyy18 24 วันที่ผ่านมา

    No offense but your front yard is 5/10

  • @CCCC-tq8yo
    @CCCC-tq8yo 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    :)

  • @cellmate1
    @cellmate1 ปีที่แล้ว

    Your yard looks terrible

  • @bestgreenpest
    @bestgreenpest 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    What a waste of products you are suggesting