Thanks for making this video! We'd failed to get the cranks on my son's bike off two years ago for a chain guide repair, managed to fix the thing without taking the crank off and it's been bothering me ever since. We wanted to put a bash guard on the bike though, so had to take the crank off, and thanks to this video it went fine. It's great the video emphasizes that 54Nm is a huge torque value and you need to do some work to overcome that. We used a regular 8mm Bondhus hex key with a 36" cheater pipe and a stack of 2x4 sections under the offside pedal with two people holding the bike. Holy smokes that's the tightest screw I've ever seen on a bicycle.
Thanks mate, this helped me out heaps! Almost went to fork out on a new bottom bracket only to realise that it is just the bearing preload that was a bit off.. Cheers, M
Really appreciate the clear instructions. Will be tackling this on my bike shortly and it’s great to see the steps worked through and explained. Thanks!
Thank you, I really appreciate your videos. I'm new to working on my bike, and these videos are not only very helpful, but saves me gawd knows how much from having to take my bike into a bike repair shop.
A milk crate or beer crate is just the right height to hold the pedal.. the extration cap nut is known to fall off, a bit of blue Loc Tite fixes that, you can add grease to the inside of the cap nut while its off too.
Great video only one that reminded people to loosen 2mm hex. ended up standing on pedals with bike upside down and using a pole breaker bar on end of the hex wrench
I did this hoping to get rid of some creaking but after completing this the crak still exists🤷 serviced the pedals as well, no luck. Maybe the suspension bearings? Maybe the spokes? Who knows 🤣
Make sure you leave the outer nut in tight (I think this is a 10mm hex) your 8mm hex fits through the 10mm hole and will locate in the 8mm hex socket. The outer nut needs to stay in as the cranks are self extracting. Like said loosen anti clockwise.. It will loosen then go tight again, then loosen fully.
thanks for the helping video! one quick q: is it normal, that on the non-drive site there isn't any lid to close the 'hole' leading through the crank? in my Truvativ Descendant Eagle Carbon DUB I can see from the left side to the inner side of the right.. is this meant to be? thanks for help and ride on!
That was a normal wrench with a longer arm for leverage. NEVER loosen bolts with a torque wrench. It could impact the accuracy of the tool. Torque wrenches are precision instruments, not brute force tools. Pro tip: When storing your torque wrench set the torque to the lowest setting to relieve the spring tension. Helps maintain tool accuracy longer.
Thanks for making this video! We'd failed to get the cranks on my son's bike off two years ago for a chain guide repair, managed to fix the thing without taking the crank off and it's been bothering me ever since. We wanted to put a bash guard on the bike though, so had to take the crank off, and thanks to this video it went fine. It's great the video emphasizes that 54Nm is a huge torque value and you need to do some work to overcome that. We used a regular 8mm Bondhus hex key with a 36" cheater pipe and a stack of 2x4 sections under the offside pedal with two people holding the bike. Holy smokes that's the tightest screw I've ever seen on a bicycle.
Really good video: no ambiguity, clear and detailed instructions, and meticulous attention to detail; I'd let you work on my bike any day. Excellent.
That trick with some wood under the non driveside pedal just saved me trip to the local bike shop :) Thanks!
Thanks mate, this helped me out heaps! Almost went to fork out on a new bottom bracket only to realise that it is just the bearing preload that was a bit off.. Cheers, M
Your style of explaining makes things look so easy
Really appreciate the clear instructions. Will be tackling this on my bike shortly and it’s great to see the steps worked through and explained. Thanks!
Thank you, I really appreciate your videos. I'm new to working on my bike, and these videos are not only very helpful, but saves me gawd knows how much from having to take my bike into a bike repair shop.
The trick to rest the NDS pedal on a block is genius! thanks mate.👏
A milk crate or beer crate is just the right height to hold the pedal.. the extration cap nut is known to fall off, a bit of blue Loc Tite fixes that, you can add grease to the inside of the cap nut while its off too.
Perfect! Thanks for the video. I'd love to have a mechanic like you here where I live! B-)
All your vids are so clearly explained, thanks.
Thanks mate, very clear and helpful!
Thank you so much . This was extremely helpful !
Great video only one that reminded people to loosen 2mm hex.
ended up standing on pedals with bike upside down and using a pole breaker bar on end of the hex wrench
Can you make a video? I’m absolutely cranking the hell out of mine and I can get it off
Short and simple
Thanks 🙂
Thank You very much!🤝🤝🤝 Very detailed and clear👍
Perfect explanation, this was verry helpfull. Ty!
Thank you for your guide!
Thanks mate. Very helpful.
BIG HELP THANKS MATE
very helpful, thanks a lot.
I did this hoping to get rid of some creaking but after completing this the crak still exists🤷 serviced the pedals as well, no luck. Maybe the suspension bearings? Maybe the spokes? Who knows 🤣
Thanks for this video.
Gracias.❤
Thank you!😊
Veru helful vids! Thanks!!!
Hey I’m having troubles with my cranks. I got SRAM descendant cranks and they will not come off with the bolt out. I’m not sure what to do. Thanks
Make sure you leave the outer nut in tight (I think this is a 10mm hex) your 8mm hex fits through the 10mm hole and will locate in the 8mm hex socket. The outer nut needs to stay in as the cranks are self extracting. Like said loosen anti clockwise.. It will loosen then go tight again, then loosen fully.
Thank you very much!!!
thanks for the helping video! one quick q: is it normal, that on the non-drive site there isn't any lid to close the 'hole' leading through the crank? in my Truvativ Descendant Eagle Carbon DUB I can see from the left side to the inner side of the right.. is this meant to be?
thanks for help and ride on!
there is no cover in the end of the left hand crank arm!
@@FreeToCycle ...but y?
@@05struck So mice and other small rodents can get from one side to the other side.
I love you man😁😁😁
Thanks man
Hi. What size are the sealed bearings of the bottom braket?
What gloves did you use? Thx
Can you use a threaded bottom bracket with this crank set or isit rider choice
Can a impact gun be used to loosen the crank set bolts?
definitely not recommended
Could you use an impact gun?
What specific grease did you use?
Hi can the spindle be removed or can it fit in raceface spindle.
Is the torque wrench that you use in the video a newton torque wrench or a normal one? Grts
That was a normal wrench with a longer arm for leverage. NEVER loosen bolts with a torque wrench. It could impact the accuracy of the tool. Torque wrenches are precision instruments, not brute force tools.
Pro tip: When storing your torque wrench set the torque to the lowest setting to relieve the spring tension. Helps maintain tool accuracy longer.
Love the accent
What’s size is the crank bolt?
Hello. Pls, 9:25 how do i remove left cank?
how do you remove the bottom bracket
th-cam.com/video/NbgozB7qsS8/w-d-xo.html
@@FreeToCycle thanks.
My crank were on way way way tighter then 54 Newton meters or 40 foot lbs. Frigging animals
I’m trying to take mine off now and I think they are tighter too. Won’t budge! What did you do?
Thank you very much !!!