The first couple of time I done this i managed to to get it off with a 7” long hex key but it took a lot of sweating and time. I then bought a 15” breaker bar and the next time I had to remove it it came off easily 🎉
Great video. Very thorough. I used it to walk me through taking my crank off to re-grease and tighten everything up from a sinister creak when I pedal. If it wasn’t for this video I would have had to leave it at a bike shop for who knows how long.
@Free To Cycle, thank you very much for taking the time to do a step by step tutorial on the removal & installation for the SRAM DUB BSA bottom bracket. I just purchased the SRAM Eagle Nx version, and your video goes into much greater detail than the one on the actual SRAM website. Also, thank you for pointing out not to over tighten the 2mm retention allen screw, as I've read incidents where people have stripped them out, and damaged the bearings. I love your videos, as well as RJ the Bike Guy's videos as well. Keep up the great work, and have an awesome day!!
Ding, ding, ding! I'm pulling a perfectly good NX crank & BB to install the wife's dropper. So this is exactly why I'm here - so I don't damage the bearings removing the BB. (Ironically when I slid the left crank arm & spindle out of the BB, I tore the left blue o-ring in half! Figures!!! Dammit SRAM, stop making such delicate parts!!!
My day started by finding my 14 year old son taking apart his 2020 Giant MTB crank set to do some "maintenance". When ever I see my son do these things, I usually run (sprint) into the shop to assist, as we know it's much easier to take things apart than assemble! Thanks for the video, it helped immensely!
Just letting you know it’s great that you son is learning how to work on things like this I’m 15 and do 100 %of my maintenance on my bikes myself and because I learn at a Young age I buy and sell bikes like this at 15
Wrench Breaker Extension Bar, what sort of bar is he oor are you using ? i have this long 8mm Allen key and i can't get it off using that, it is so seized in may be as well from riding
@@robinbreeds9217 see my post above! Looks like this bolt issue is NOT unique to me. Just about three comments in, I find someone else having this issue. Heck, maybe I'll call SRAM to request they warranty the trashed bolt so I can return the one I paid $18 for at the LBS!
I was searching all evening for a video that would help me uninstall my old kit then install the new stuff, and nothing was really hitting the mark until I saw this video. Thanks so much! And, bonus points for the pronounciation of "drive side" haha. Nice one.
Shit I'm trying to loosen the new stuff I *just* installed so I can install another spacer (Chris King fit kit thing) and I can't. I am regretting the decision to go with dub cranks right now.
Yet another great video. Awesome. I always come to this channel for advice. Saved my Axx many a time. Lack of LBS staff resources = need to do your own work
Yes, I totally agree with last post, informative and also helpful, on my trek bike, 9 months after purchase, the bearings are clicking. I have no faith in shop, so i will remove and clean myself. Thanks for taking the time to put this presentation together.
Hey, it's THIS guy! Searched NX BB removal and this was the first result. I first saw Free to Cycle in his post-crash incident video. I came here after a friend was hit similarly. Mega OUCH! Anyway, anyone else here come across a REALLY tight NX crank bolt? The Scott Spark is 2 years old, stored indoors and not ridden in inclement weather. I USUALLY pull apart a new bike bought at the LBS and re-build it with proper lube, spoke tensioning, radial & lateral truing to higher spec, etc. But I didn't get around to doing this bike, so I have no idea of the original condition of the crank bolt. Most certainly in there with the factory grease - if any. But wow, that 8mm aluminum bolt would NOT release! Attempted removal with my normal 8mm allen wrench. Wouldn't budge. So I took the Milwaukee 12V Fuel impact wrench, setting 2 to it. NOPE! So I gave setting 3 a try and not a chance! Dang! But I stopped short before doing any impact damage to the Al bolt. So I put the bike on its right side, inserted the 8mm allen wrench to plug the bolt hole (with some electrical tape to seal) and filled the bottom of the BB axle/spindle with PB Blaster penetrating oil. Let it sit for THREE days! Went at it again with the wrenches & impact and it still wouldn't budge. So I left it for a few weeks so the wife could ride it in the interim. Oh and I picked up a replacement 8mm SRAM bolt at the IBD, knowing I was gonna destroy the OEM bolt in the removal process... Just went back at it half an hour ago. I torqued it so hard I twisted my drill-to-3/8" socket attachment! (Not torque rated, but it had lasted over 10 years of mostly drill use.) That didn't release it either. So before breaking out the Dremel with cutting wheel, I secured the crank arm in place and slid my breaker bar over the 8mm wrench and gave it one last try. "SQUEEEEK-BAM!" It finally let go! Thank god. But boy are the 8mm "flats" inside the bolt done! Glad I have the spare ready to go. So I'm curious if this bolt/spindle combination is prone to seizing up. Will use ample Mobil One synthetic waterproof grease on everything during reassembly. Might add some anti-seize to the thread grease while I'm at it. So the cranks are off, but now I see it's a press-fit BB of some sort. Dammit! Don't want to trash the bearings removing it. So I figured I'd get some tips before doing something I'd regret! I'm doing this all to just install a damn dropper post the wife has been lacking these two + years now. Sheesh! Darn, this is a threaded BB.... off to another video to see how the press fit removal is recommended. Thanks anyway!
Great instructional video! My bike mech was trying to remove my BB and couldn't budge it. My GT is brand new and there's awful creaking noises coming from the BB, so I want to look at the condition/grease on it. Thank you so much! Bob in Japan
Beautifully done! I have a new XO1 12 speed Eagle, and when I reach 1 yr. of age or less for the bike, I'll take this off just to regrease it and clean it up. Thanks for a great video!
Thank You so much for the video. I have a brand new bike I bought from a dealer a month ago, 3 hrs drive away and I want to change the SRAM Chainset to one with a Power Meter. AM FC ASSY XX1 EAGLE DUB 8B, CRING X-SYNC EAGLE 32T 104, AM PM SPIDER AXS DZERO XX1 BOOST and although I have ordered the BB AM BB DUB BSA 68/73 ROADMTB,73 ROAD WIDE I think I have the same one already and will hang on to it as a spare. I'll only find out when I actually remove it.
Very helpful, THANK YOU! If not for your warning about the tight 8mm around 1:25, I probably would have chickened-out and taken my bike in to the shop. Great video!
Wrench Breaker Extension Bar, what sort of bar is he using ? i have this long 8mm allen key and i can't get it off using that, it is so seized in may be as well from riding.
@@robinbreeds9217 I'm sure you probably have sorted this, but he's using a standard 1/2" drive breaker bar, with a 3/8” adapter into an 8mm hex drive bit. I had to go buy the adapter and drive bit this weekend to do this task when it became apparent the standard 8mm Allen key wasn't going to cut it at all
Thanks for the thorough video! I was able to get the 8mm bolt off with a breaker bar and the thin washer. Afterwards I'm still unable to pull my drive side crank arm off. I've pulled and pulled and it isn't moving though the bolt isn't there and nothing obvious is there to hold it on. Any ideas how to get that drive side arm to pull off?
Wow! Amazing my adjuster broke out on a DH section assuming a rock hit it n broke it so it was a walk back toe the motor! Was apprehensive on doing this stuff as kts all new n a carbon frame. Im waiting for the preload adjuster to arrive n may as well invest in a new Bb 👊🏻
Brilliant - pedals very stiff on my Whyte 905 and had been trying to book it in for repairs for a while but due to these difficult times the shops are either closed or have long waiting lists. Decided to do it myself, first time for work at what I would normally have regarded as a proffesional job. This video is great taking you through and clearly explaining every step and the bike being worked on had exactly the same set-up including spacers etc as mine, as I said Brilliant!
Make sure the self-extracting cap (the bit with the Dub logo on) is still on the bike. Mine wasn’t on (must have rattled out) and the cranks wouldn’t self-extract when loosening the bolt. Got a replacement ordered off eBay for £15
Does the spindle come off the crank arm ? Recently snapped my left side crank and them bought a pair and the spindle is to short, so can I take it off and put it on my non broken crank
If I just want to remove my driveside crank ( im adding a powermeter to force asx spider) do I still need to losen nondrive side first? Thanks for the great videos you are always on point.
Well done ! I had replaced the stock ring to an oval recently for the same crank and realized that my torque wrench only went to 29nm. So I only was able to tighten to 29nm. I see that you didn't use a torque wrench which I'm sure is fine. Is this a worry getting it to 54nm or not? Appreciate your time.. excellent video.
Awesome vid. I work in the industry but am not a mechanic, so I needed a refresher to DIY my DUB BB and address a slight creak. Btw, interesting accent, where are you from?
Outstanding! Probably one of the best how-to videos I have seen in awhile. The official video for this setup calls for a BB press. Why is that? I noticed you did not need one at all. Thanks in advance.
Hi mate been told my chain ring is worn looks just like yours tbh. Can you get just the chain ring or do I need to buy cranks too? Doing cassette and chain soon.. great vid cheers
On thing they don't tell you in all these videos is that you may have to use a crank-puller in order to get the pedal arm off. I have to use it every time for my new Trek bike.
It will not make your crank loose that's the main 8mm hex bolt, what that will do is stop the bearings taking the load and possibly just spin the crank axle in the bb shell without spinning on the bearing itself. Had a bike built by retail shop that had similar bearing load adjustment and they just left it loose. A year down the road the cranks felt like shit til I replaced the BB and one of them was moving fine the other seized completely as mud got it and didn't work itself loose. Moral of story...ALWAYS check it yourself even if it seems "right" to begin with, working like a dream now though thankfully.
mind telling me what spacing you have for your rear hub? im trying to do the same thing on my 2014 Trek Farley and it has a 170mm rear hub and im also concerned of chainline issues. Great video by the way! thanks.
That was one of the best and easiest to follow service videos I have seen
The most informative video on this subject I've seen .
''Make sure you've got a good 2 foot, 3 foot bar''
Me: *Stares intensely at multi-tool
I actually broke my nice quality 8mm square drive hex key trying to remove my cranks!
@@JasonWD in the end i bought a a set of hex wrenches and a length of pipe
He wasn't wrong. A 1ft steel tube sorted it out!
thats my reality
The first couple of time I done this i managed to to get it off with a 7” long hex key but it took a lot of sweating and time. I then bought a 15” breaker bar and the next time I had to remove it it came off easily 🎉
Great video. Very thorough. I used it to walk me through taking my crank off to re-grease and tighten everything up from a sinister creak when I pedal. If it wasn’t for this video I would have had to leave it at a bike shop for who knows how long.
Awesome tutorial on taking off and reinstalling the DUB crankset.
Thanks for the time and effort to put this out… new to SRAM, now no longer intimidated. Perfect
I wasn’t looking forward to this job but you simplified it nicely. Nice work!
Thank you sir! Very thorough and easy to follow instructions as always. You should get an award!!
Great video, I’ve saved this one and watch it each time I replace my SRAM DUB BB
@Free To Cycle, thank you very much for taking the time to do a step by step tutorial on the removal & installation for the SRAM DUB BSA bottom bracket. I just purchased the SRAM Eagle Nx version, and your video goes into much greater detail than the one on the actual SRAM website. Also, thank you for pointing out not to over tighten the 2mm retention allen screw, as I've read incidents where people have stripped them out, and damaged the bearings. I love your videos, as well as RJ the Bike Guy's videos as well. Keep up the great work, and have an awesome day!!
Ding, ding, ding! I'm pulling a perfectly good NX crank & BB to install the wife's dropper. So this is exactly why I'm here - so I don't damage the bearings removing the BB. (Ironically when I slid the left crank arm & spindle out of the BB, I tore the left blue o-ring in half! Figures!!! Dammit SRAM, stop making such delicate parts!!!
My day started by finding my 14 year old son taking apart his 2020 Giant MTB crank set to do some "maintenance". When ever I see my son do these things, I usually run (sprint) into the shop to assist, as we know it's much easier to take things apart than assemble! Thanks for the video, it helped immensely!
Just letting you know it’s great that you son is learning how to work on things like this I’m 15 and do 100 %of my maintenance on my bikes myself and because I learn at a Young age I buy and sell bikes like this at 15
This is exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you for putting the time and effort into this video. Very helpful!👍
Agreed. Very concise video.thanks
Me too ;)
Wrench Breaker Extension Bar, what sort of bar is he oor are you using ? i have this long 8mm Allen key and i can't get it off using that, it is so seized in may be as well from riding
@@robinbreeds9217 for a breaker bar I actually use an old seatpost for leverage. Also, make absolutely sure you are turning in the correct direction.
@@robinbreeds9217 see my post above! Looks like this bolt issue is NOT unique to me. Just about three comments in, I find someone else having this issue.
Heck, maybe I'll call SRAM to request they warranty the trashed bolt so I can return the one I paid $18 for at the LBS!
I was searching all evening for a video that would help me uninstall my old kit then install the new stuff, and nothing was really hitting the mark until I saw this video. Thanks so much! And, bonus points for the pronounciation of "drive side" haha. Nice one.
Shit I'm trying to loosen the new stuff I *just* installed so I can install another spacer (Chris King fit kit thing) and I can't. I am regretting the decision to go with dub cranks right now.
Used this on the weekend to get my crank set apart. Great guide, thank you so much!
Yet another great video. Awesome. I always come to this channel for advice. Saved my Axx many a time. Lack of LBS staff resources = need to do your own work
Steps are perfectly explained -- thank you so much for this video!
Yes, I totally agree with last post, informative and also helpful, on my trek bike, 9 months after purchase, the bearings are clicking. I have no faith in shop, so i will remove and clean myself. Thanks for taking the time to put this presentation together.
did cleaning fix the clicking? or did you have to replace BB, thanks
Hey, it's THIS guy! Searched NX BB removal and this was the first result. I first saw Free to Cycle in his post-crash incident video. I came here after a friend was hit similarly. Mega OUCH!
Anyway, anyone else here come across a REALLY tight NX crank bolt? The Scott Spark is 2 years old, stored indoors and not ridden in inclement weather. I USUALLY pull apart a new bike bought at the LBS and re-build it with proper lube, spoke tensioning, radial & lateral truing to higher spec, etc. But I didn't get around to doing this bike, so I have no idea of the original condition of the crank bolt. Most certainly in there with the factory grease - if any.
But wow, that 8mm aluminum bolt would NOT release! Attempted removal with my normal 8mm allen wrench. Wouldn't budge. So I took the Milwaukee 12V Fuel impact wrench, setting 2 to it. NOPE! So I gave setting 3 a try and not a chance! Dang! But I stopped short before doing any impact damage to the Al bolt.
So I put the bike on its right side, inserted the 8mm allen wrench to plug the bolt hole (with some electrical tape to seal) and filled the bottom of the BB axle/spindle with PB Blaster penetrating oil. Let it sit for THREE days!
Went at it again with the wrenches & impact and it still wouldn't budge. So I left it for a few weeks so the wife could ride it in the interim. Oh and I picked up a replacement 8mm SRAM bolt at the IBD, knowing I was gonna destroy the OEM bolt in the removal process...
Just went back at it half an hour ago. I torqued it so hard I twisted my drill-to-3/8" socket attachment! (Not torque rated, but it had lasted over 10 years of mostly drill use.)
That didn't release it either. So before breaking out the Dremel with cutting wheel, I secured the crank arm in place and slid my breaker bar over the 8mm wrench and gave it one last try.
"SQUEEEEK-BAM!" It finally let go! Thank god. But boy are the 8mm "flats" inside the bolt done! Glad I have the spare ready to go.
So I'm curious if this bolt/spindle combination is prone to seizing up. Will use ample Mobil One synthetic waterproof grease on everything during reassembly. Might add some anti-seize to the thread grease while I'm at it.
So the cranks are off, but now I see it's a press-fit BB of some sort. Dammit! Don't want to trash the bearings removing it. So I figured I'd get some tips before doing something I'd regret! I'm doing this all to just install a damn dropper post the wife has been lacking these two + years now. Sheesh!
Darn, this is a threaded BB.... off to another video to see how the press fit removal is recommended. Thanks anyway!
th-cam.com/video/eyIsmAeU96E/w-d-xo.html
its videos like this we need. Slow and really detailed tutorials, keep up the good work mate!
Thorough, clear, detailed - thanks!
This was very helpful, thank you! I didn't remember how exactly the dub release mechanism worked and this made me safe to do my work. :)
Thanks. Dub is much different from the Shimano I’ve always used. 😊😊
Great instructional video! My bike mech was trying to remove my BB and couldn't budge it. My GT is brand new and there's awful creaking noises coming from the BB, so I want to look at the condition/grease on it. Thank you so much! Bob in Japan
I'm new to all this Sram kit, all seems a bit complicated after Shimano but this explains the process well. Thanks
Always clear, informative and effective.
Thanks again👏
Exactly what I was looking for and great demonstration. Thank you so much!
Thanks a million. Did my crankset swap at home thanks to you.
Best DIY tutorial ever.
A big Thank You from Morocco brother. Very helpful
Well going to make a attempt today or tomorrow you made it very simple glad it’s the same regardless if it X01 or GX
Absolutely excellent presentation! Thank you.
P.S. Now I can really decide if I want to go to the trouble of going from 30t to try out 28t. :)
Beautifully done! I have a new XO1 12 speed Eagle, and when I reach 1 yr. of age or less for the bike, I'll take this off just to regrease it and clean it up. Thanks for a great video!
Great video! Clear, concise and informative. Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to make this, very helpful.
Thank You so much for the video. I have a brand new bike I bought from a dealer a month ago, 3 hrs drive away and I want to change the SRAM Chainset to one with a Power Meter. AM FC ASSY XX1 EAGLE DUB 8B, CRING X-SYNC EAGLE 32T 104, AM PM SPIDER AXS DZERO XX1 BOOST and although I have ordered the BB AM BB DUB BSA 68/73 ROADMTB,73 ROAD WIDE I think I have the same one already and will hang on to it as a spare. I'll only find out when I actually remove it.
Very helpful, THANK YOU! If not for your warning about the tight 8mm around 1:25, I probably would have chickened-out and taken my bike in to the shop. Great video!
Wrench Breaker Extension Bar, what sort of bar is he using ? i have this long 8mm allen key and i can't get it off using that, it is so seized in may be as well from riding.
@@robinbreeds9217 I'm sure you probably have sorted this, but he's using a standard 1/2" drive breaker bar, with a 3/8” adapter into an 8mm hex drive bit. I had to go buy the adapter and drive bit this weekend to do this task when it became apparent the standard 8mm Allen key wasn't going to cut it at all
@@ipaterson Thank you yes i got a Power Breaker Bar 30, and Hex socket 8mm H8 M8 1/2" Drive Allen Key Single socket Hex Key 55mm Length.
Getting this crankset on a new boik, thanks for the tutorial
Awesome! I need to do service, clean and reinstall sram bb nx 1x12, now i know the steps :-D thank YOU
Invaluable advice brilliant video
Love your videos. Thanks for helping us out!
Thanks for the thorough video! I was able to get the 8mm bolt off with a breaker bar and the thin washer. Afterwards I'm still unable to pull my drive side crank arm off. I've pulled and pulled and it isn't moving though the bolt isn't there and nothing obvious is there to hold it on. Any ideas how to get that drive side arm to pull off?
Best video I have found so far. Thanks!
Wow! Amazing my adjuster broke out on a DH section assuming a rock hit it n broke it so it was a walk back toe the motor! Was apprehensive on doing this stuff as kts all new n a carbon frame. Im waiting for the preload adjuster to arrive n may as well invest in a new Bb 👊🏻
Excellent vid, exactly what I needed. Thanks.
Great video cheers m8..new to DUB, so it helped 🤟
Right to the point with valuable information, genius.
Straight to the point..
Thanks for this video! Used it as a reference to work on my Ibis Ripmo v1.
Thanks for video. Just what I needed.
Brilliant - pedals very stiff on my Whyte 905 and had been trying to book it in for repairs for a while but due to these difficult times the shops are either closed or have long waiting lists. Decided to do it myself, first time for work at what I would normally have regarded as a proffesional job. This video is great taking you through and clearly explaining every step and the bike being worked on had exactly the same set-up including spacers etc as mine, as I said Brilliant!
Glad it helped you out!!
Your videos are so good! Huge thanks
Thank you for this video! So helpfull ❤
Merci bcp frérot tu m’a sauvé
Awesome video, so useful, Could you post a list of tools?
Clear and concise. Thanks.
Great job! Thanks for sharing.
An instant thumb up on your video...
👌👍🏿 excellent instructional video, Thank you
very clear video thnx, love your accent btw
Make sure the self-extracting cap (the bit with the Dub logo on) is still on the bike. Mine wasn’t on (must have rattled out) and the cranks wouldn’t self-extract when loosening the bolt.
Got a replacement ordered off eBay for £15
What tool do you need to reinstall it? Because of the 4 weird holes.
Excellent video , very informative . Would you mind posting a link to the tool / attachment you used to actually get the BB off . Thanks in advance
54 Nm...I'm always a puss when reefing on bike parts. Good vid!
The 54 Nm seams a little ridiculous to me. Good grief, it's a bicycle!
Very useful tutorial mate. Thank you
Great video - chainset needs a lot of force - no way with an allen key!
Awesome video, thank you!
Thank you, very helpful!
Very nice clear video 👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks. Great instructions.
Great video, thanks for your help 👍
when i pulled of my crankset. a blue o ring came off. i need to install in again and how?
Outstanding. Nice job! Anti-Clockwise? It's Counter-Clockwise this side of the pond. :)
Great tutorial. Thanks!
That was reall helpful, thanks mate and happy cycling!:-D
Does the spindle come off the crank arm ? Recently snapped my left side crank and them bought a pair and the spindle is to short, so can I take it off and put it on my non broken crank
Great video! Thank you!
If I just want to remove my driveside crank ( im adding a powermeter to force asx spider) do I still need to losen nondrive side first? Thanks for the great videos you are always on point.
No not if your just changing the drive side arm. It’s best check the non drive side adjustment afterwards though!
Well done ! I had replaced the stock ring to an oval recently for the same crank and realized that my torque wrench only went to 29nm. So I only was able to tighten to 29nm. I see that you didn't use a torque wrench which I'm sure is fine. Is this a worry getting it to 54nm or not? Appreciate your time.. excellent video.
Awesome vid. I work in the industry but am not a mechanic, so I needed a refresher to DIY my DUB BB and address a slight creak.
Btw, interesting accent, where are you from?
Great video man!!!
Great video! Very detailed and easy to follow. Thank you!!!!
Very good and helpfull video, thanks a lot !
Outstanding! Probably one of the best how-to videos I have seen in awhile. The official video for this setup calls for a BB press. Why is that? I noticed you did not need one at all. Thanks in advance.
The BB was threaded in and not a Pressfit one!
I took the nut off, but drive side crank arm is stuck on. I'm soaking it with penetrating oil presently but it seems welded on.
If you are changing from a 1x crank to a 2x crank do you still need the spacers?
Very helpful thanks 👍
Always well detailed. Thx.
Hi mate been told my chain ring is worn looks just like yours tbh. Can you get just the chain ring or do I need to buy cranks too? Doing cassette and chain soon.. great vid cheers
The chainring is available to purchase separately!
Any tips for the cranks being stuck on? I removed the 8mm screw on drive side and it doesn’t slide out like in the video.
Excellent video
Brilliant Video !!!!!!!
what Frame set is that Mate ? and what Size ?
On thing they don't tell you in all these videos is that you may have to use a crank-puller in order to get the pedal arm off. I have to use it every time for my new Trek bike.
Lars Gustafsson I’d humbly suggest that you might not have enough grease on it, if you need a gear puller to remove a crank arm!
if you leave the lock nut on then the non drive crank self extracts, then just use a mallet to whack the other one out
Thanks very usefull video ❤
If that little screw is loose at 0:44 and the piece turns when you try to turn it manually, will that make the cranks really loose?
It will not make your crank loose that's the main 8mm hex bolt, what that will do is stop the bearings taking the load and possibly just spin the crank axle in the bb shell without spinning on the bearing itself.
Had a bike built by retail shop that had similar bearing load adjustment and they just left it loose. A year down the road the cranks felt like shit til I replaced the BB and one of them was moving fine the other seized completely as mud got it and didn't work itself loose. Moral of story...ALWAYS check it yourself even if it seems "right" to begin with, working like a dream now though thankfully.
Whoever tightened my crank arm bolt when the bike was built must have used the power of Thor.
Great vid!
Great video. Thank you. Question, what grease are you using there?
mind telling me what spacing you have for your rear hub? im trying to do the same thing on my 2014 Trek Farley and it has a 170mm rear hub and im also concerned of chainline issues. Great video by the way! thanks.
12x142mm rear hub!
Very useful. Thank you
Great video - thanks
Excellent, thank you!