Problems Removing Sram Crankset? 2 Mistakes With Self - Extracting Chainset Removal.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2019
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What I usually do is place the allen key close to the pedal and squeeze them to loosen the bolt, i can use both hands for extra power, this avoids most of the issues of everything moving around, and I can do it on the stand.
Same here, works perfect..
Yep, that's the way to do it. You can even leave the bike on the stand since you're not putting any load on it.
Or one hand on crank arm and one on allen key aligned with the arm. That way, there is no residual force on the frame.
Thank you! Upside down frame made all the difference in the world! So much easier to get leverage.
I watched 3 other people do this, without replicating their success, your method is the one that worked for me! Thank you.
This simple video saved me from losing it and throwing my tools again. Thank you!!
Thank you for the clip. It shows the difficulty in breaking that juncture for the first time. I have a Sram xo1 crank set that might encounter the same difficulty. At least I know what to expect.
Thank you so much!!! I couldn't find this information on the SRAM website or others. I am trying to install the AXS spider power meter which is easy enough but the removal for the SRAM Force 1 crankset is a little different. Subscribed after seeing this video :-)
Lol I literally removed the ring nut then the bolt inside and was like “ok it’s stuck how do I get this off” then went to TH-cam before I destroyed everything and found tons of videos leaving the ring nut on and that’s how the extraction takes place. Duh!
Learn something new every day. Thanks!
Thanks! Been battling with this for two weeks. Followed your reccos to the letter - still shocked by how much force I had to apply to the breaker bar - and pop it came loose! My advice, use a breaker bar (mine is an 18"), breaker at 10 o'clock and crank at 2 o'clock, bounce and don't be shy to use some muscle. Just think of the power your legs pump into those cranks, they can handle it.
My outer nut fell (or my mechanic stoled it, I will never know). This nut costs a lot. The video helped me understand how it works. Nice channel, great tips.
I hate having different size extractor bolts between all my Force 1 cranks so this was helpful in switching out the one 10mm bolt with another 8mm.
Thanks! Very useful guide
Hello, thank you for this video which helped me to understand what I have to do in order to replace the chain ring on my MTB. By the way, what is the name of this tool you used to remove the bolt?
Thanks, worked like a charm!
very helpful video. Thanks
You saved my cranks. Thanks!
very helpful tips!
very useful video. I just have such a problem. only I still lost the outer nut.
Where do I get that external nut removal tool from??
I need to purchase a Pin tool spanner - what pin diameter ?
Time 1:08, what tool is used? Mine (very old) is a bit bigger. Thanks
I had a terrible time removing my Rival cranks recently, too bad this video wasn't out then. I used my chain lock to tie the non-drive side crank to the downtube (obviously the lock is cloth-covered to prevent scratching) so I could use both hands to turn the allen key instead of having to use the other hand to keep the crank from turning. Also if one happens to have some metal pipe or tube around, it can be used to extend the allen key (put it around the allen key) and get lots more leverage.
Thank you very much👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you
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Isn't there any spacers on the drive side crank arm? When you took it off I noticed that bigger spaced on the non-drive side arm instead of the usual drive side. Just curious.
I can get the bolt out but the crank is stuck on the spindle. Any ideas?
thank you...thank you..!!!
i used a stool just below the chain ring to block the crank turning, use a long torque wrench for leverage. quite easy.
I have fovno ghost crankset and very hard to remove, then I find it need more grease and you don’t need to tighten very hard.
So my outer nut fell of during a ride. Can I still ride without any isse while I get a replacement? As I understood correctly, the nut is only needed to remove the crank (as its self extracting and the nut needs to work against the bolt).
Thanks
Yes. It’s only there for the extraction.
On the park tool video it states that you never remove the outer retaining bolt. Can you advise? Which is correct practice?
the outer nut is the puller nut, you need it for the chainring to pop out from the crank, if you remove the bolt without it you will have a hard time releasing the chainring. you can loosen it a bit to help with the first bolt turn, that pop sound.
just use a rubber hammer to tap on the end of the allen wrench if it won't turn. Works every time.
What material are your gloves made of? Any commercial name? Thanks.
Nitrile.
“You need this moment. You need to hear this” and I see your butt jiggling 🤣 WTH I dont need this moment 🤪
Please, please, please... do NOT remove the outer ring nut! It's there for a reason! You need it there so the inner bolt has something to push against as you turn the 8mm inner bolt against the crank arm. This opposing action of the inner nut against the outer ring nut is what pulls the crank arm off the spindle. I repeat, do NOT remove the outer ring nut!
Thanks man that sorted me out
Wish I read this 10 mins ago 😢
What tool did u use to open the external bolt with the pins ?
Same I can't find the name of this anywhere but I need one too
@@louismarieallyndree290 Parktool SPA2
I think this sucks with Sram cranksets. My only complaint with Sram groupsets is the removal of the crankset. It is bad desinged imho.
Thank goodness there’s someone who has explained that there is a nut to remove before the bolt. It is in no way obvious. Thank you, without your precious advice I’d probably have destroyed my xx1 crankset...I just don’t have that special tool to remove the nut...
You shouldn't remove the outer nut for crank removal - keeping it in gives required leverage for self-extraction from the splines- that's the point of it and why it's called 'self-extracting'. The stickiness of the internal (8mm) nut is a different matter - just use a long torque wrench and patience. However, I recommend removing the outer 22 mm nut for installation of the crank as it lowers the risk of cross-threading the inner M15 nut. Just my experience.
you all think it was hard . I had a 1/2 drive Knuckle bar with a 4FT !!!!!! extension tube . 3 pals holding the frame and Bang it finally came undone .
SRAM should market these with buy one crankset "and get 3 pals free and a 4 feet extension bar for free"
2 mıstake here are;
1. you use 8 mm allen with chain on chainring
2. you should not unscrew outside nut.
Please, what is the name for the tool to remove the cap of the extractor?
Dude this works so well
That’s why I go to my local bike shop for any work on my Scram gear system, they know what they are doing
Bom dia?...é só jogar água quente!..fervendo!...Tu deixa à água, no fogão até borbulhar , então tu tira do fogo proteja o quadro com pano ou etc, joga água quente e pronto!
Yes karcher BB harder. And hubs.
Yep, and add a ton of degreaser too - helps heaps 😅
wife say your lighter color back ground is much better
Lean the carbon against the bike stand? There’s a nice solid wall nearby! Then invert a bike with disc brakes and risk bubbles going from the reservoirs to the callipers. Not best practices. Still, informative and clear.
Hmm, the more I hear about the maintenance which is involved with SRAM groupsets the happier I am that I went with Shimano instead. No yearly brake bleed due to DOT fluid required and Hollowtech 2 makes the crank removal a breeze.
no need for all this trouble, put the bike on the ground, stand over the toptube, NDS crank to 3 o clock, foot on the NDS pedal, and pull on the 8mm wrench upwards, this has never failed me.
THANK YOU!
Wouldn’t you then be tightening the bolt?
thanks bro, this works perfect for me!
Holy damn %%#%?$%$Q!!! I've removed this stubborn nut before with a cheater bar, then something similar to your method, but not on the top tube....it would not budge now. So exactly how you say, and it was easy peasy. The body weight on the top tube makesa all the difference to apply body strength in a very stable way.
@@9008332 no,, not 9 oclocl, but 3 oclock,, thought the same, but when you get on the top tube you will see that the NDS pedal when in front,,,it is the 3 oclock position, because you are then looking from the right side!
This is a completely flawed system, ask yourself if this should be necessary in well designed equipment. I found it this tough to get off on my brand new bike.
Lame usage of crank and allen key
Zero help
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Thanks for your videos!! I've seen the Topeak tools cart you're using. Can you recommend a tool kit for an average home mechanic? 🧰 Thanks!