Things I used in this video: 1. Synthetic Grease: amzn.to/2BLVflE 2. Channellock Plier: amzn.to/2AvScjr 3. Pittsburg Floor Jack: amzn.to/2Ameq7m 4. Ratchet and socket set: amzn.to/2inoxOY 5. Sledge Hammer: amzn.to/2iasnep 6. Mechanic’s Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 7. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU 8. Shop Towels: amzn.to/2jGDfkA 9. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO 10. Jack Stand: amzn.to/2jGOwBg 11. Common Sense 12. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7 13. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 14. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 15. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
scotty i love your tips and advice iam a do it yourselfer i have a mazda 6 2006 2.3 that stutters when i turn on ac or defrost but i dont think my vehicle has an idle air control valve please help.....
I'm at downtown houston, 15 minutes away. I check out cars all the time M-F when I'm working on them. You bring it to me, I check it out in about an hour.
I use them on engines and crucial torque settings. A mechanic like myself can do it by feel on brake jobs, and anyone using hand tools can get them as tight as they can and that's fine for such work.
PUMP YOUR BRAKES!!!!! I believe scotty meant to mention to EVERYONE as the FINAL STEP ***MAKE SURE TO PUMP YOUR BRAKES WHEN YOU ARE ALL DONE*** if not, that piston you squeeze back in will be all the way in and your brake pedal will go all the way to the floor as you roll through two fences like I just did because after you are done you have to PUMP YOUR BRAKES!!!!! If you DO NOT, you will not have any brake pressure! DONT ROLL YOUR CAR THROUGH TWO FENCES!!!! PUMP YOUR BRAKES!!!!!!😂😂😂✌💯💯
I tighten em by hand, been doing it so long, you can torque em if you're a newbie. You can such fluid out first if you worry about messes. I would use oem pads, and rotors can last over 100 thousand miles if you baby the brakes. change brake fluid every 5 years or so
Wow. Every time I have an issue with my car, or even just a question, there seems to be a new video from Scotty explaining just what I need! Thanks again, for making all these videos, Scotty!
Hello Scotty. You said the rotors you buy are ready to go on out of the box. Regardless, I always clean off the friction surfaces with brake cleaner or CRC degreaser. I've had cars come back from the shop and the guys left greasy finger prints on the rotors. A few weeks later the brakes started to vibrate when I pressed on the pedal. I could see spots on the rotors where the they were not wearing evenly from the greasy prints and had to replace the rotors. I always like watching your videos. Great Job.
ElectricBlake I think he does the step first and then films himself reenacting it so you don’t get moments like “now just take it off and- Oh what the fuck it’s stuck as shit.”
That just gave me an idea. Smart materials that are capable of tightening and holding like say a wheel in place while it spins, but recognizes human touch and loosens itself on contact (specifically with human touch... not with your phone or some other internet shit that would leave it vulnerable to hackers) impossible now but maybe sometime in the future.
I love Scotty he has taught me so much and being 17 I have saved so much money fixing my own stuff in my 1995 Ford F-250 and I just did my brakes today after watching this video it’s easy to understand definitely better than high school auto tech. Scotty keep up the great vids you are a true mechanic
Got to agree with Scotty on this one. The saying, 'dont rock the boat!' Scotty's kind enough to provide all these amazing videos, heck i might be in Australia but I do loads of work on cars I could never dream of doing before thanks to Scotty's videos. Cheer up pal, if absolutely everything was ticked and perfect and predictable in life and no problems whatsoever, imagine how boring life indeed would be! Speaking of problems, we can't stop the boat ppl coming here, 400 last week!
Just wanted to say thanks alot for all these awesome DIY videos. My dad did all of the automotive work on our vehicles thus he never bought anything after the mid 80s due to all the electrical components integrated into every system. So, its nice to have someone with as much experience such yourself doing these videos and helping the average Joe Citizen save some coin. Thanks again for taking the time to educate us.
I HAVE A NAME FOR THIS GUY MR. EASY. THANK YOU FOR MAKING ME DEEPLY INTERESTED IN MECHANICS ! I HAVE DONE SO MANY MECHANICAL WORKS AFTER WATCHING YOUR EASY TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS. LIFE TIME KNOWLEDGE !!!
If you put them on correctly and nothing is rubbing, like out of place shims or bent brake dust shields that often do that, then you could have gotten cheap pads, some of those just make noise. But make sure they are on right, cause you can actually put them on backwards, I've seen that a few times
Scotty, how can you tell if the mechanic put them on backwards? I've been watching so many videos and no mechanic zeros in on the photography. Is the fat part supposed to be able to be seen through your rim? Is the gray part supposed to be inside or outward? Please help 😳
means you need new brakes and rotors on the back when the pedal does that. As for gas leaks, put UV leak dye in the tank and see where the green comes out as in my video "finding and fixing engine oil leaks" only put it in the gas tank.
I can do this myself ! ! ! I'm sitting here like who the hell can I ask to help me do my brakes without being charged $400 at a repair shop...Then I thought of you! You make these things look so easy & it inspires me to bring out my inner man vibes.
Scotty has 45+ yrs experience, I´m a technician but I met on the run a lot of "certified" mechanics and many of them can´t use a wrench properly, the hell with torque wrench, If you got the practice and knowledge of parts and types of steel you´ll know how to deal with and his TIPS are free !!!, Scotty all the way.
depends where the clunk is. If on the pedal, the pivot bushings often wear out. If at the wheels, tons of things from worn pads to bad ball joints can do that
My van is in need of a front brake job and am using Brembo rotors and Akebono pads. I was originally going to look on amazon but now will check eBay to see if their prices are better. Thanks again for your insight as always, keep up the good work!
Scotty your the GOAT, no BS or lengthy explanation, very quick straight forward and easy. This is easily the most useful video to save money and do tha job, thanks Scotty
depends on the problem of course. Try to see if the ballancer is indeed wobbling and knocking, cause if it is, that will trip the knock sensor code. If it isn't, replace the sensor
Bought my own rotors and pads and no one wanted to do it for me because they can't rip me off on parts. So i did it myself with this guide, it was no science actually even though i was scared first driving it :D
first, check the suspension system as any worn part will make it shake when you hit the brakes, like a worn ball joint or tie rod. Start there, callipers normally just stick on when old, they don't knock or shake
You can't use pliars only on rear disc brakes that have emergency brake systems built into the callipers, as they have screw callipers that will be damaged. all other callipers just slide in with pliars as in this video.
Well, update on the $21 Prime Choice brake pads. Verdict, they suck. They are noisy and fade out really easily. Lesson learned. Since I will need rear brakes because they barely passed inspection, my van is getting a full upgrade. Brembo rotors all the way around paired with Akebono pads. Not cheapening out this time, I'm doing it right. Thanks again for all your advice, you have saved me a ton of time and money.
Nice touch adding the materials used. Ebay is good, sometimes you get a better deal from the sellers web site. Keep up the good work. Thanks for the vids
thumping can be tons of things, jack up the front end, if you can feel no play, it's the brakes. But if you have play, find the worn suspension part and replace that first.
Additionally, loosen the mastercylinder fill cap before depressing piston. Finally, with all installed, start vehicle, depress brake petal & release. Do this 6-8 times. Test car in low speed non busy area, & brake to stop. I do this 6 times as well. It allows the piston to adjust to new position & helps seat the new pads to the rotor surface.
often shiny rotors will cause that, replace the rotors IF the noise bothers you. But it hurts nothing. and realize cheaper pads will often make noise, that's why I use akebono pads that are super quiet.
yea, that's fine to grease them too. I don't pinch the hose, if i worry about back pressure, I just open the bleeder valve, then bleed it out when I'm done
Scotty, Just want to say Thanks for all the videos. You are my first source for diy guidance on my cars. Also want to thank you for taking the time to answer all the questions you do. There is a wealth of knowledge in these comments.
Amazing what you can find on EBAY motors.....I've been doing my car shopping for a long time with EBAY....I'm happy with my results.....Excellent Video as always Scotty Kilmer.
sometimes you bend the backing brake plate, check that first, they rub and do that. If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every saturday morning at 10 AM CST on google events. Just go to my scotty kilmer channel on youtube saturday morning at 10, and click on the google plus icon on the top right corner. That takes you to the event where you can ask me questions Live. You do have to be a member of google plus, but that's free and you can just google join google plus
This is precisely what I like about you, boss! You put a smile on my face and more automotive knowledge in my brain! Keep it up...as if I needed to tell you that in the first place!
ah, but "lifetime" warranty parts are often cheap parts, they give you new ones easily cause they cost the company often very little. I'd rather use quality parts
Hey Scotty! Instead of using a breaker bar can I use an a Electric Impact Gun to remove the Lug Nuts out from the wheel? An Air One obviously works great but I don't have a compressor.
@@conman1173 I've worked at multiple parts stores. Only way that happens is if someone there knows you and doesn't care, or the employees just don't care. They don't make any money if the keep exchanging out pads, or any parts. Warranty is for coverage on any type of defect, not the part being worn out. "Lifetime" which most have changed to "limited lifetime" means the life of the part with a defect beyond the manufacturer specs. I'm not saying your wrong, I'm sure you're telling the truth because it happens all the time. It's the employees of the company who aren't following the company guidelines.
Hey Scotty. I replaced the injectors on my truck and now it starts up like a charm. Only other problem I have is slight stumble/hesitation in acceleration at half throttle and WOT. The Tach jump 300-600 trying to accelerate causing the truck to have no power uphill when it downshifts. Being that it has a 454 it should not have a problem going uphill at 70 mph. 1996 Chevrolet C3500 7.4L
I've been buying my car parts also thru ebay. Ebay prices are great (including shipping cost) compared to local prices from auto parts store here in Canada. Most often I do my car repairs myself. I saved a lot of money.
Oh.. and another awesome video Scotty. Brakes are the one thing that I'll never pay a mechanic to do. Normally it's a 45 minute job with $60 worth of parts. And that's from Autozone. How they justify charging $300 for a brake job is beyond me.
I have no interest in being called a "technician" as I am a mechanic, been doing it 45 years. Torquing is overkill for a good mechanic, unless you're doing crucial stuff like head gaskets.
i leave the old brake pad in place when pushing the piston in as its already trash, and its impossible to damage the piston this way since i generally use a c clamp to do this, and on some cars, you can simply remove the 17mm bolts in this case and with gentle persuasion remove it as a unit, install new pads, and slide the unit back into place. its only two bolts your not undoing, and doesn;t work on every make and model since you still need to be able to push the piston back. Oh yeah 2012 or so 4x4 dodge vehicles have a large O ring that keeps the rotor in place, its got a slot on the hub and is prone to getting buried in dirt, it holds quite well too....
i just went through a very stressful break job. took me forever to get the bolts off. they were totally rusted on. same brakes as this car(i drive a 97 prizm), so it brings me back to the nightmares i had to go through, lol. i had to go as far as buying new bolts for the caliper because i had to cut one of them off!
Scotty, I just replaced the pads on my Rav4. First time for me. There is one piece of instruction that I think you missed. Before you drive off to try your new brakes, start the car and pump you brake pedal until you feel the pressure. When I first tried my brakes I put the car in reverse and to my horror, when I pushed the brake pedal the car kept moving. Out of sheer instinct, I kept pumping the pedal and the the brakes finally caught. I guess the piston has to be pushed back out to contact the pads. Scared the crap out of me. But, it all seems to work now. Knock on wood.
should you open the cap on the master cylinder and siphon off a little brake fluid before you push in the caliper piston? I know sometimes with really worn brakes sometimes you have to push the piston back in the bore pretty far to make it fit the new brake rotors
Scotty, I had a 1986 4cyl Subaru GL Sedan. I had problems with brakes grinding metal to metal. After replacing both front calipers, rotors, and pads; the right front was still grinding metal to metal. I told a mechanic friend who ask me if it was the right front before I told him it was. He said it was my proportion valve because that make/model of Subaru was famous for that problem. But I donated the car before fixing it so I will never know what was really wrong. What do you think?
Tell me about it! I live in Truro, NS, and I am getting myself a 1980 Z28 here soon, but I will HAVE to drive it for this one winter... luckily we do undercoating here so i'm going to pile it on! Winter beater next year!
rarely does a good mechanic bother with a torque wrench with years of experience. If you're worried, get one and a manual for your car with torque specs cause they are different for all cars.
Sometimes it's a good idea to remove the master cylinder cap so the piston pushes in easier. Also,when I do the fronts I turn the wheel all the way to lock so my caliper sticks out and is easier to get too.
I used Permatex anti seize (silver in color) to lube the slide pins, pad ear things and on the bolt threads. Is that ok for the slide pins? Will it damage the rubber boots or drip on to the rotor? Guy at Advance recommended it. Do you pinch the hose when you compress the piston? Bleed the after you compress?
I just changed the pads and rotors on my Cobalt because of a warped rotor. Sometimes, I do get a little shimmy in the steering when I brake. Other times, it's fine. It's sure a lot better than what it was. Also, do you recommend "bedding" in the brakes after you replace them? I keep hearing that'll make your brakes last longer and work better.
I use a C clamp instead of a"big pair of pliers", although that would work too, I just prefer a C clamp. If your having trouble getting the caliper off after taking out the bolts, put a C clamp over it with the "foot"of the clamp on the back of the outer pad and tighten. It will loosen your caliper and it will come right off
Scotty is Great. With all advice you have to study it and retain it to use with your knowledge to do the appropriate repairs you need at that time and in the future. That is how you become better at whatever job you are doing. P.S.- IM26C4U, Great name n profile pic!!!
Been doing brakes on my 96 Outback for a few years now. In the last year, we've noticed a loud knocking and shake at high speed braking from the front driver wheel area. I've replaced rotors and pads and bled the system regularly but the knocking/shaking returns. I talked to another wrench head he suggested new calipers and fluid. Oh the car has over 250k miles on it, I think the calipers are the original. Thoughts?
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2. Channellock Plier: amzn.to/2AvScjr
3. Pittsburg Floor Jack: amzn.to/2Ameq7m
4. Ratchet and socket set: amzn.to/2inoxOY
5. Sledge Hammer: amzn.to/2iasnep
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9. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO
10. Jack Stand: amzn.to/2jGOwBg
11. Common Sense
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13. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz
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🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend:
www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer
❗️Check out the Scotty store:
goo.gl/RwhRGU
👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics:
goo.gl/ohy2cA
scotty i love your tips and advice iam a do it yourselfer i have a mazda 6 2006 2.3 that stutters when i turn on ac or defrost but i dont think my vehicle has an idle air control valve please help.....
Scotty Kilmer I noticed you did pop the cap off the reservoir, what is the the idea behind that mr 46 years of tire changin
You're awesome
So u don't need a tork wrench
@@utuber2940 that’ll be yer alternator puppy ain’t purring out enough amps. Backyard Freddy said so.
I'm at downtown houston, 15 minutes away. I check out cars all the time M-F when I'm working on them. You bring it to me, I check it out in about an hour.
I use them on engines and crucial torque settings. A mechanic like myself can do it by feel on brake jobs, and anyone using hand tools can get them as tight as they can and that's fine for such work.
PUMP YOUR BRAKES!!!!! I believe scotty meant to mention to EVERYONE as the FINAL STEP ***MAKE SURE TO PUMP YOUR BRAKES WHEN YOU ARE ALL DONE*** if not, that piston you squeeze back in will be all the way in and your brake pedal will go all the way to the floor as you roll through two fences like I just did because after you are done you have to PUMP YOUR BRAKES!!!!! If you DO NOT, you will not have any brake pressure! DONT ROLL YOUR CAR THROUGH TWO FENCES!!!! PUMP YOUR BRAKES!!!!!!😂😂😂✌💯💯
God that's scary lol
LMAO yeah good point. Whoops
Lmao you rolled your car after watching this video and changing your brakes?
I noticed that too!!
Thank you
I tighten em by hand, been doing it so long, you can torque em if you're a newbie. You can such fluid out first if you worry about messes. I would use oem pads, and rotors can last over 100 thousand miles if you baby the brakes. change brake fluid every 5 years or so
Wow. Every time I have an issue with my car, or even just a question, there seems to be a new video from Scotty explaining just what I need! Thanks again, for making all these videos, Scotty!
Hello Scotty. You said the rotors you buy are ready to go on out of the box. Regardless, I always clean off the friction surfaces with brake cleaner or CRC degreaser. I've had cars come back from the shop and the guys left greasy finger prints on the rotors. A few weeks later the brakes started to vibrate when I pressed on the pedal. I could see spots on the rotors where the they were not wearing evenly from the greasy prints and had to replace the rotors. I always like watching your videos. Great Job.
Hahaha +Scotty Kilmer your editing made it look like you ripped the wheel off without taking anything loose! Love it!
ElectricBlake I think he does the step first and then films himself reenacting it so you don’t get moments like “now just take it off and- Oh what the fuck it’s stuck as shit.”
Scotty Kilmer is the Chuck Norris of the Mechanical World!!!!!
That just gave me an idea. Smart materials that are capable of tightening and holding like say a wheel in place while it spins, but recognizes human touch and loosens itself on contact (specifically with human touch... not with your phone or some other internet shit that would leave it vulnerable to hackers) impossible now but maybe sometime in the future.
logan kincade Then that means that Eric the Car Guy is Bruce Lee? Lol
Hahhaa I laugh so hard with my wife when he took off the wheel
this dude needs more views his videos are simple to understand which makes it the best
I love Scotty he has taught me so much and being 17 I have saved so much money fixing my own stuff in my 1995 Ford F-250 and I just did my brakes today after watching this video it’s easy to understand definitely better than high school auto tech. Scotty keep up the great vids you are a true mechanic
man... to work on cars that never see salt... must be sweet.
We put extra copper grease on the bolt ends so it wont seize
It is
When we wereiving in Chicago my mother said this lmao we from Mississippi by ways of Missouri I love the south
david s - No kidding!!! I have to take my car to get Krown done on it so it has much better longevity. 🇨🇦
Lol see salt
Got to agree with Scotty on this one. The saying, 'dont rock the boat!' Scotty's kind enough to provide all these amazing videos, heck i might be in Australia but I do loads of work on cars I could never dream of doing before thanks to Scotty's videos. Cheer up pal, if absolutely everything was ticked and perfect and predictable in life and no problems whatsoever, imagine how boring life indeed would be! Speaking of problems, we can't stop the boat ppl coming here, 400 last week!
to each his own. I like saving money and getting quality parts myself. Discount chain stores often sell really cheap parts.
Just wanted to say thanks alot for all these awesome DIY videos. My dad did all of the automotive work on our vehicles thus he never bought anything after the mid 80s due to all the electrical components integrated into every system. So, its nice to have someone with as much experience such yourself doing these videos and helping the average Joe Citizen save some coin. Thanks again for taking the time to educate us.
I HAVE A NAME FOR THIS GUY MR. EASY.
THANK YOU FOR MAKING ME DEEPLY INTERESTED IN MECHANICS ! I HAVE DONE SO MANY MECHANICAL WORKS AFTER WATCHING YOUR EASY TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS. LIFE TIME KNOWLEDGE !!!
If you put them on correctly and nothing is rubbing, like out of place shims or bent brake dust shields that often do that, then you could have gotten cheap pads, some of those just make noise. But make sure they are on right, cause you can actually put them on backwards, I've seen that a few times
Scotty, how can you tell if the mechanic put them on backwards? I've been watching so many videos and no mechanic zeros in on the photography. Is the fat part supposed to be able to be seen through your rim? Is the gray part supposed to be inside or outward? Please help 😳
you check them for warpage, to do it correctly you measure it with a micrometer in various spots.
means you need new brakes and rotors on the back when the pedal does that. As for gas leaks, put UV leak dye in the tank and see where the green comes out as in my video "finding and fixing engine oil leaks" only put it in the gas tank.
I can do this myself ! ! ! I'm sitting here like who the hell can I ask to help me do my brakes without being charged $400 at a repair shop...Then I thought of you! You make these things look so easy & it inspires me to bring out my inner man vibes.
Same got quoted $600. Ugh
@@UneducatedGeologist damn were ya going to? ..lamborgini dealerships?
I wasn't going to do work on my own car or sub to your channel, but your charisma and attitude made me do want to do both. Wish me luck fixing my car.
Scotty has 45+ yrs experience, I´m a technician but I met on the run a lot of "certified" mechanics and many of them can´t use a wrench properly, the hell with torque wrench, If you got the practice and knowledge of parts and types of steel you´ll know how to deal with and his TIPS are free !!!, Scotty all the way.
depends where the clunk is. If on the pedal, the pivot bushings often wear out. If at the wheels, tons of things from worn pads to bad ball joints can do that
yes, great pads, though a bit pricey. I grease the pins if they need it, often they are still fine as they do have boot covers on them
My van is in need of a front brake job and am using Brembo rotors and Akebono pads. I was originally going to look on amazon but now will check eBay to see if their prices are better. Thanks again for your insight as always, keep up the good work!
Scotty your the GOAT, no BS or lengthy explanation, very quick straight forward and easy. This is easily the most useful video to save money and do tha job, thanks Scotty
opening a bleeder valve or removing a brake hose so air gets in the system
if you don't open the system up, you don't have to bleed any air out
depends on the problem of course. Try to see if the ballancer is indeed wobbling and knocking, cause if it is, that will trip the knock sensor code. If it isn't, replace the sensor
Bought my own rotors and pads and no one wanted to do it for me because they can't rip me off on parts. So i did it myself with this guide, it was no science actually even though i was scared first driving it :D
first, check the suspension system as any worn part will make it shake when you hit the brakes, like a worn ball joint or tie rod. Start there, callipers normally just stick on when old, they don't knock or shake
You can't use pliars only on rear disc brakes that have emergency brake systems built into the callipers, as they have screw callipers that will be damaged. all other callipers just slide in with pliars as in this video.
Well, update on the $21 Prime Choice brake pads. Verdict, they suck. They are noisy and fade out really easily. Lesson learned. Since I will need rear brakes because they barely passed inspection, my van is getting a full upgrade. Brembo rotors all the way around paired with Akebono pads. Not cheapening out this time, I'm doing it right. Thanks again for all your advice, you have saved me a ton of time and money.
Nice touch adding the materials used. Ebay is good, sometimes you get a better deal from the sellers web site. Keep up the good work. Thanks for the vids
pads came with shims built in, and I used a tiny grease on the edges, akebono pads are really quiet by themselves.
Scotty does it again as usual
Giving to you straight
No bullshit
No jargon
Just HONEST advice to save hefty bills and a wrecked car
Its best to use a torque wrench and loctite on those bolts and dont forget to regrease the caliper pens
yes, but I'm not a thermoquiet fan, last ones I bought made tons of noise and they weren't even glued on straight at the factory
yes, do that if you live in a rust belt area. Here in Texas things don't rust much at all and we don't have to worry about that.
yes, try that, but realize any small front end problem can cause that shimmy too, so have the front end checked for wear or bad alignment.
thumping can be tons of things, jack up the front end, if you can feel no play, it's the brakes. But if you have play, find the worn suspension part and replace that first.
Additionally, loosen the mastercylinder fill cap before depressing piston. Finally, with all installed, start vehicle, depress brake petal & release. Do this 6-8 times. Test car in low speed non busy area, & brake to stop. I do this 6 times as well. It allows the piston to adjust to new position & helps seat the new pads to the rotor surface.
Even though I don't have a car to be worked on, I still love watching your videos Scotty! Its just like going to school! Thanks for these videos!!
same basic process. the covers are a dust shield, you can leave em off but pin will corrode in the rain and dirt
often shiny rotors will cause that, replace the rotors IF the noise bothers you. But it hurts nothing. and realize cheaper pads will often make noise, that's why I use akebono pads that are super quiet.
Yes, nothing beats air tools and a compressor, and they don't cost that much and LAST much longer and are tons stronger
Ohh how things have changed from 11 years ago now the only time you use air tools anymore is for heavy equipment and really really stubborn bolts
@@infernoeagles5812 how have things changed with compressors?
generally worn out brake pads scraping, but if not that, something worn in the front end like wheel bearings, jack it up and check those first
often a sticking wheel cylinder does that, or calliper if you have rear disc brakes.
yea, that's fine to grease them too. I don't pinch the hose, if i worry about back pressure, I just open the bleeder valve, then bleed it out when I'm done
Scotty, Just want to say Thanks for all the videos. You are my first source for diy guidance on my cars. Also want to thank you for taking the time to answer all the questions you do. There is a wealth of knowledge in these comments.
Amazing what you can find on EBAY motors.....I've been doing my car shopping for a long time with EBAY....I'm happy with my results.....Excellent Video as always Scotty Kilmer.
most guys end up hating em, cause the warp, wear out faster, make noise, and give funky brake pedal feel at hard stops as they wear.
try cleaning the throttle assembly as in my video "how to fix a car that idles poorly" and if that doesn't do it, replace the idle air control valve
sometimes you bend the backing brake plate, check that first, they rub and do that. If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every saturday morning at 10 AM CST on google events. Just go to my scotty kilmer channel on youtube saturday morning at 10, and click on the google plus icon on the top right corner. That takes you to the event where you can ask me questions Live. You do have to be a member of google plus, but that's free and you can just google join google plus
This is precisely what I like about you, boss! You put a smile on my face and more automotive knowledge in my brain! Keep it up...as if I needed to tell you that in the first place!
if they are warped and steering shakes on high speed stops, yes. If not, I reuse em.
ah, but "lifetime" warranty parts are often cheap parts, they give you new ones easily cause they cost the company often very little. I'd rather use quality parts
This dude rocks!!!! Always super helpfull, ive done motor mounts, front end suspension, and my ac compressor..and breaks all off from him...🤙🏎
so fun to watch. If there is a mechanic like Scotty nearby, I would probably not do it myself.
Hey Scotty! Instead of using a breaker bar can I use an a Electric Impact Gun to remove the Lug Nuts out from the wheel? An Air One obviously works great but I don't have a compressor.
+Brian Hua Yes, but I personally wouldn't use it to tighten them.
I buy my brake pads from auto zone, they have a lifetime warranty so when they wear down I just take them back and I get a new set for free
Yeah that's not how it works.
@@thissorthosesofthesesguys133 I've done it for years. As long as you have your receipt you can get new brakes as long as they are for the same car.
@@conman1173 I've worked at multiple parts stores. Only way that happens is if someone there knows you and doesn't care, or the employees just don't care. They don't make any money if the keep exchanging out pads, or any parts. Warranty is for coverage on any type of defect, not the part being worn out. "Lifetime" which most have changed to "limited lifetime" means the life of the part with a defect beyond the manufacturer specs. I'm not saying your wrong, I'm sure you're telling the truth because it happens all the time. It's the employees of the company who aren't following the company guidelines.
@@scooter4252 yeah like I said that's how it works when the employees don't care, or they're friends with the customer.
@@thissorthosesofthesesguys133 no its in the training lol
Hey Scotty. I replaced the injectors on my truck and now it starts up like a charm. Only other problem I have is slight stumble/hesitation in acceleration at half throttle and WOT. The Tach jump 300-600 trying to accelerate causing the truck to have no power uphill when it downshifts. Being that it has a 454 it should not have a problem going uphill at 70 mph.
1996 Chevrolet C3500 7.4L
they do have soft pedals often, but only use a NEW master cylinder, never a rebuilt and they are generally harder
rebuild kits come with seals, you buff the pistons clean. Most guys just buy already rebuilt ones from a factory
I recently bought from eBay pads and rotors for a great price. Good advice when getting someone else to do it can cost big buck. Thanks Scotty
I've been buying my car parts also thru ebay. Ebay prices are great (including shipping cost) compared to local prices from auto parts store here in Canada. Most often I do my car repairs myself. I saved a lot of money.
Oh.. and another awesome video Scotty. Brakes are the one thing that I'll never pay a mechanic to do. Normally it's a 45 minute job with $60 worth of parts. And that's from Autozone. How they justify charging $300 for a brake job is beyond me.
not in Texas . It's hot and dry, very little rust here, unless you drive to the oceanfront.
Thanks Scotty, for the videos. You have saved alot of people alot of money by showing them how to fix their own car.
I have no interest in being called a "technician" as I am a mechanic, been doing it 45 years. Torquing is overkill for a good mechanic, unless you're doing crucial stuff like head gaskets.
scotty videos makes it look easy i remeber spending good 2 hours trying to push the piston back in place on my e34 lol
Thanks Scotty ur the best. I am about to do my breaks tomorrow because of you. Any suggestions on a good brand? What do you think about Duralast Gold?
yes, but some cars have small springs that help push them back a tiny bit.
i leave the old brake pad in place when pushing the piston in as its already trash, and its impossible to damage the piston this way since i generally use a c clamp to do this, and on some cars, you can simply remove the 17mm bolts in this case and with gentle persuasion remove it as a unit, install new pads, and slide the unit back into place. its only two bolts your not undoing, and doesn;t work on every make and model since you still need to be able to push the piston back. Oh yeah 2012 or so 4x4 dodge vehicles have a large O ring that keeps the rotor in place, its got a slot on the hub and is prone to getting buried in dirt, it holds quite well too....
next time I do, I will film it, but here in texas they don't rust up like up north, so I don't see many go bad.
open the bleeder, then close it when you're at the end of pushing the piston back in.
i am lost do i have to open the bleeder or can i just leave the system closed
i just went through a very stressful break job. took me forever to get the bolts off. they were totally rusted on. same brakes as this car(i drive a 97 prizm), so it brings me back to the nightmares i had to go through, lol. i had to go as far as buying new bolts for the caliper because i had to cut one of them off!
Scotty, I just replaced the pads on my Rav4. First time for me. There is one piece of instruction that I think you missed. Before you drive off to try your new brakes, start the car and pump you brake pedal until you feel the pressure. When I first tried my brakes I put the car in reverse and to my horror, when I pushed the brake pedal the car kept moving. Out of sheer instinct, I kept pumping the pedal and the the brakes finally caught. I guess the piston has to be pushed back out to contact the pads. Scared the crap out of me. But, it all seems to work now. Knock on wood.
Great, thank you. This was my first break job and with your videos it was very easy. Spent more time going back and forth to Advance
should you open the cap on the master cylinder and siphon off a little brake fluid before you push in the caliper piston? I know sometimes with really worn brakes sometimes you have to push the piston back in the bore pretty far to make it fit the new brake rotors
If this guy was my teacher, I would be done with my Auto Tech class and started taking the ASE tests by now.
I love your knowledge of electronics and automotive not many no electronics and that what is lacking in today's cars and vehicles to be repaired
it's still there, but all the action is at the scottykilmer channel with a new video each week.
Scotty, I had a 1986 4cyl Subaru GL Sedan. I had problems with brakes grinding metal to metal. After replacing both front calipers, rotors, and pads; the right front was still grinding metal to metal. I told a mechanic friend who ask me if it was the right front before I told him it was. He said it was my proportion valve because that make/model of Subaru was famous for that problem. But I donated the car before fixing it so I will never know what was really wrong. What do you think?
Tell me about it! I live in Truro, NS, and I am getting myself a 1980 Z28 here soon, but I will HAVE to drive it for this one winter... luckily we do undercoating here so i'm going to pile it on! Winter beater next year!
making em snug and hitting with a hammer once is fine, been doing that years with no problems.
rarely does a good mechanic bother with a torque wrench with years of experience. If you're worried, get one and a manual for your car with torque specs cause they are different for all cars.
Sometimes it's a good idea to remove the master cylinder cap so the piston pushes in easier.
Also,when I do the fronts I turn the wheel all the way to lock so my caliper sticks out and is easier to get too.
As the owner of 91 Foxbody, Im pretty confident it is synchros. The beautiful part about T5's is they're dirt cheap to have rebuilt.
I used Permatex anti seize (silver in color) to lube the slide pins, pad ear things and on the bolt threads. Is that ok for the slide pins? Will it damage the rubber boots or drip on to the rotor? Guy at Advance recommended it. Do you pinch the hose when you compress the piston? Bleed the after you compress?
I just changed the pads and rotors on my Cobalt because of a warped rotor. Sometimes, I do get a little shimmy in the steering when I brake. Other times, it's fine. It's sure a lot better than what it was. Also, do you recommend "bedding" in the brakes after you replace them? I keep hearing that'll make your brakes last longer and work better.
I use a C clamp instead of a"big pair of pliers", although that would work too, I just prefer a C clamp. If your having trouble getting the caliper off after taking out the bolts, put a C clamp over it with the "foot"of the clamp on the back of the outer pad and tighten. It will loosen your caliper and it will come right off
you can if it's near full.
give it a few weeks, noise generally goes away then, i'VE done that on my own cars at times.
I love Scotty learn a lot from him .
Best mechanic on TH-cam!:)
Not.
Scotty is Great. With all advice you have to study it and retain it to use with your knowledge to do the appropriate repairs you need at that time and in the future. That is how you become better at whatever job you are doing. P.S.- IM26C4U, Great name n profile pic!!!
What grease/lube do you use if you decide you need to lube the slide pins?
I wanna to know too
Such Quality work Scotty does scale 1 to 10 he is at 100
all kinds out there, I really don't care unless it goes on a race car, then I'd use brembo
Been doing brakes on my 96 Outback for a few years now. In the last year, we've noticed a loud knocking and shake at high speed braking from the front driver wheel area. I've replaced rotors and pads and bled the system regularly but the knocking/shaking returns. I talked to another wrench head he suggested new calipers and fluid. Oh the car has over 250k miles on it, I think the calipers are the original. Thoughts?
Best mechanic on planet Earth 🌎