Thank you very much for this video series.. it has helped me replace the burner on my furnace without having a tech come to the campground... excellent job.. thanks again..
Great video, I have the same kind of furnace, I'm just wondering how do I disconnect the wires from the thermostat to the furnace before I take the furnace out of the rv
I enjoyed these videos for the atwood 8535-iv-dclp, but did I miss one inwhich you replaced the sail switch 😢 I can't find the location of it to see if debris is in it 😢? Thanks Linda
On model 8531-IV the sail Switch better access is from inside the « fan blower ». Just have to remove one screw that hold the circuit board to have access.
Thanks for your videos. I have a Furnace problem. Atwood model 8525-IV DCLP The furnace heats as it should, the flame stops and it goes into a cool down cycle but the fan never turns off. It will keep running constantly.If I turn the switch off on the blower motor and leave it off for awhile it will stay off until the furnace runs again. then it does the same thing and keeps running.
@@shaneschriock354 Shane I'm sorry it took so long to reply but I wanted to give my repair a good test, which I did last weekend. I replaced the igniter board on the furnace and it totally fixed my problem.
How do you test the flame sensor/ igniter? I have tested sail switch and limit and both check out good. Blower motor just runs and it does not even try to click/ igniter. Thanks
I left you a note the other day about air flow, and your answer was to look at the air chamber. I did, and got it partially cleaned. It's better, but there is still something in the pipe. What can I use to run through the pipe? I have used a snake for the sink, but it won't go all the way through. Ideas?
Hey great videos! I have a Atwood 8535-1v dclp furnace that the exhaust vent was completed plugged with soot. I took it apart and cleaned it. Can a guy clean the heat exchanger ? Any ideas on what would be the cause of the problem what’s happening now is the exhaust gases are being sent back into the ducting .
First I would like to thank you on your videos. I really like how detailed and thorough you are. I also have a problem that I cannot figure out. I have a Atwood 8535 that when turned on the blower comes on and continues to run, the ignitor will trigger and you can feel the heat come out of the exhaust but then the flame immediately goes out. After about 15 seconds it will repeat the process and will continue this cycle as long as you have the furnace on. Fault LED never comes on. First thought was the temp sensor but do not know why I do not get a fault code. Could use any help you can provide. Thank You.
What is the voltage at on the proving circuit. Hook probs up to that circuit and use the record function on the meter. Trying to rule out a couple of things
Awesome videos! I bought a 96 National Sea Breeze motor home with an Atwood 8536-3. The first time I turned on the furnace it fired right up and heat came out. The second time it fired up the blower runs but doesn't ignite. Watched all your videos and used a multi-meter to test all switches. Pulled the plug off my board and tested the white wire and I have DC Voltage coming to the board which tells me all switches pass the test. I then put my multi-meter on red wire going to the igniter and I have no voltage which explains why I never hear any clicking. Does this mean that my board is bad? Is there any way to test the board itself besides what I've already done?
Blower comes on for 3 mins then shuts off never ignites. Red light blinks three times then stalls for 3 seconds. Ignition lockout fault. Need help thanks
E1 on the thermostat is a communication error take the cove off the tstat you will see a terminal block with three wires in it. 12v - com- ground. Take the com wire out and put it back in and re tighten it see if that clears the error.
Thank you very much for this video series.. it has helped me replace the burner on my furnace without having a tech come to the campground... excellent job.. thanks again..
Glad it helped
Great video, I have the same kind of furnace, I'm just wondering how do I disconnect the wires from the thermostat to the furnace before I take the furnace out of the rv
They will be down at the furnace two blue wires.
Does the Attwood 8535 have a time delay switch?
The delay is on the board.
@@thecanadianrvrepairguy3062
Thanks very much..was looking at an older model. Great videos for us DIY'ers!
How do you disassemble the model with the gas pipe coming over the top of the heat exchanger end of the furnace? Just swing it around to unscrew it?
Yes that is correct
Thanks for the excellent video, figuring how to take apart without destroying is the hardest part! My 8535 is 25 years old and working like new.
I enjoyed these videos for the atwood 8535-iv-dclp, but did I miss one inwhich you replaced the sail switch 😢 I can't find the location of it to see if debris is in it 😢? Thanks Linda
I am going to be doing a disassembly video when I can here. I’m starting to see lots of interest in the videos so I will start doing more.
On model 8531-IV the sail Switch better access is from inside the « fan blower ». Just have to remove one screw that hold the circuit board to have access.
Thanks for your videos. I have a Furnace problem. Atwood model 8525-IV DCLP The furnace heats as it should, the flame stops and it goes into a cool down cycle but the fan never turns off. It will keep running constantly.If I turn the switch off on the blower motor and leave it off for awhile it will stay off until the furnace runs again. then it does the same thing and keeps running.
Tim mine is doing the same thing. Is it the limit switch?
@@shaneschriock354 Shane I'm sorry it took so long to reply but I wanted to give my repair a good test, which I did last weekend. I replaced the igniter board on the furnace and it totally fixed my problem.
How do you test the flame sensor/ igniter? I have tested sail switch and limit and both check out good. Blower motor just runs and it does not even try to click/ igniter. Thanks
Thank you for such a thorough video on rv furnaces, it will make my life much easier.
Thank you these videos very informative
Thank you much for this video... It gives me the confidence to troubleshoot my RV furnace.
Great Video! Thanks!
I left you a note the other day about air flow, and your answer was to look at the air chamber. I did, and got it partially cleaned. It's better, but there is still something in the pipe. What can I use to run through the pipe? I have used a snake for the sink, but it won't go all the way through. Ideas?
What a thorough guide to disassembly and reassembly. Thank you!
Thanks
Hey great videos! I have a Atwood 8535-1v dclp furnace that the exhaust vent was completed plugged with soot. I took it apart and cleaned it. Can a guy clean the heat exchanger ? Any ideas on what would be the cause of the problem what’s happening now is the exhaust gases are being sent back into the ducting .
First I would like to thank you on your videos. I really like how detailed and thorough you are. I also have a problem that I cannot figure out. I have a Atwood 8535 that when turned on the blower comes on and continues to run, the ignitor will trigger and you can feel the heat come out of the exhaust but then the flame immediately goes out. After about 15 seconds it will repeat the process and will continue this cycle as long as you have the furnace on. Fault LED never comes on. First thought was the temp sensor but do not know why I do not get a fault code. Could use any help you can provide. Thank You.
What is the voltage at on the proving circuit. Hook probs up to that circuit and use the record function on the meter. Trying to rule out a couple of things
Awesome videos! I bought a 96 National Sea Breeze motor home with an Atwood 8536-3. The first time I turned on the furnace it fired right up and heat came out. The second time it fired up the blower runs but doesn't ignite. Watched all your videos and used a multi-meter to test all switches. Pulled the plug off my board and tested the white wire and I have DC Voltage coming to the board which tells me all switches pass the test. I then put my multi-meter on red wire going to the igniter and I have no voltage which explains why I never hear any clicking. Does this mean that my board is bad? Is there any way to test the board itself besides what I've already done?
You would need someone with a board tester but it sounds like the it would be a good assumption it is the board.
Have you done a video on disassembling the newer model yet?? That one is pretty much IDENTICAL to mine.
Blower comes on for 3 mins then shuts off never ignites. Red light blinks three times then stalls for 3 seconds. Ignition lockout fault. Need help thanks
I would say sail switch
But could be limit switch
Thanks I will check that first. Great videos !
Blower won't shut off even when thermostat inside is off
Model? But sounds like the fan relay is stuck closed. Depending on the model will depend if it’s on the board or a separate piece
Are you going to be adding part 5? The other furnace is the one I really need to know how to pull apart.
Yes I can do a part 5 with the other style of furnace.
I have E1 code and no function at all. AC or Heat
So one flash on the board then a pause and one flash again
Or is that code on you thermostat
E1 on the thermostat is a communication error take the cove off the tstat you will see a terminal block with three wires in it. 12v - com- ground. Take the com wire out and put it back in and re tighten it see if that clears the error.