I've performed this procedure three times on my 3.6, and it has saved me a significant amount of time. Here's a step-by-step guide to help streamline the process. Wrench Modification: Take a 14mm wrench and bend the ring end in a vice, ensuring you can look through down the shaft and see the ring sticking out. Then, cut about 5mm off the end of the ring, creating a cut-out hole. This will allow you to pass the wrench through the fuel line and tighten the screw more easily. Cleaning Carbon Deposits: While the manifold is off, it's a good opportunity to clean the carbon deposits. Use a socket and rotate the crankcase to clean cylinders 2-4-6, followed by 1-3-5. Be sure to block the open valve holes with tissue. You can use a drill with cable ties... yes insert about 5 cables ties into the chuck of the drill head and tighten, spray cleaner to effectively remove buildup, or a scraper as needed. Afterward, ensure everything is thoroughly cleaned. Injector Seal Maintenance: The 3.6 is known for injector seal leaks, so it's a good idea to replace them while the manifold is off. The parts are inexpensive ($3-$5 each on Amazon). You’ll need: 3 X 03H198149A (Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit - Upper) 3 X 03H198149 (Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit - Lower) You can change these end seals without removing the injectors, I also use rubber greese on the seals which helps with install and seal. Additionally, I recommend using a new manifold gasket each time. However, if you don't have a replacement and need to reuse the old one, apply Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant (liquid and paste) generously over the gasket. I also use this sealant on new gaskets. The reason for this is that it makes removal much easier when you need to take the manifold off again in the future. I hope this will help alot of people. Regards Dan
How did you get the manifold off of the lower fuel rail? I'm stuck there it won't come off even after loosening that nut that you said you used a 14mm on
At the high pressure pump you have to undo the fuel rail it’s b..tch to undo and redo, I ended up pulling the intake partially off, sliding the fuel rail off of the intake,
I’m trying to find a image that shows what I’m talking about I think there are three bolts that go through the intake that tied to the fuel injector rail. I ended everything as well, and as I was pulling the intake up to the driver side, I push the rail off the intake with my fingers to get the clearance that I neededto get the intake off there are two I called them nubs, but they’re basically big round tubes that bolts go through to hold the intake on on the underside where you cannot see the fuel rail goes around those I’m looking for a photo of that
On my, that pin hole sucks lots of air it sounds like a vacuum! And I have lean codes on both banks! Is it normal to suck so much air? Just wondering if you knew!
@@percyconnollyThanks for replying to my comment! I did cover the pin hole and the rpms go up and down drastically, I have the new valve cover and tried to do it and just couldn't get the last 2 lower bolts by the fuel rail. My respects to you sir! Hard job! But I guess what one man can do another can do! I'll try next week!
I did it!! It only took me about an hour removing everything!! Putting it back together was a pain in the rear!! 7 hrs total!! Mostly dropping bolts and hunting them down! The fuel line was horrible!!! But thanks to your video that it encouraged me to tackle this!!!
Man i gotta put it back on tommorow smh 2nd one ive done still same struggle i dint even know how i took off or put back the other one i just remember fighting that danm metal line to the fuel rail
I've performed this procedure three times on my 3.6, and it has saved me a significant amount of time. Here's a step-by-step guide to help streamline the process.
Wrench Modification: Take a 14mm wrench and bend the ring end in a vice, ensuring you can look through down the shaft and see the ring sticking out. Then, cut about 5mm off the end of the ring, creating a cut-out hole. This will allow you to pass the wrench through the fuel line and tighten the screw more easily.
Cleaning Carbon Deposits: While the manifold is off, it's a good opportunity to clean the carbon deposits. Use a socket and rotate the crankcase to clean cylinders 2-4-6, followed by 1-3-5. Be sure to block the open valve holes with tissue. You can use a drill with cable ties... yes insert about 5 cables ties into the chuck of the drill head and tighten, spray cleaner to effectively remove buildup, or a scraper as needed. Afterward, ensure everything is thoroughly cleaned.
Injector Seal Maintenance: The 3.6 is known for injector seal leaks, so it's a good idea to replace them while the manifold is off. The parts are inexpensive ($3-$5 each on Amazon). You’ll need:
3 X 03H198149A (Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit - Upper)
3 X 03H198149 (Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit - Lower)
You can change these end seals without removing the injectors, I also use rubber greese on the seals which helps with install and seal.
Additionally, I recommend using a new manifold gasket each time. However, if you don't have a replacement and need to reuse the old one, apply Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant (liquid and paste) generously over the gasket. I also use this sealant on new gaskets. The reason for this is that it makes removal much easier when you need to take the manifold off again in the future.
I hope this will help alot of people.
Regards
Dan
How did you get the manifold off of the lower fuel rail? I'm stuck there it won't come off even after loosening that nut that you said you used a 14mm on
When you said you pushed the fuel rail what did you mean by this?
The fuel rail will come out with the intake
At the high pressure pump you have to undo the fuel rail it’s b..tch to undo and redo, I ended up pulling the intake partially off, sliding the fuel rail off of the intake,
@@percyconnolly how does it slide off? I've got everything unscrewed it just seems to get snagged on that hardline
I’m trying to find a image that shows what I’m talking about I think there are three bolts that go through the intake that tied to the fuel injector rail. I ended everything as well, and as I was pulling the intake up to the driver side, I push the rail off the intake with my fingers to get the clearance that I neededto get the intake off there are two I called them nubs, but they’re basically big round tubes that bolts go through to hold the intake on on the underside where you cannot see the fuel rail goes around those I’m looking for a photo of that
On my, that pin hole sucks lots of air it sounds like a vacuum! And I have lean codes on both banks! Is it normal to suck so much air? Just wondering if you knew!
It’s not supposed do that!! Plug the hole with your finger and the motor dies…your need a new valve cover !!
@@percyconnollyThanks for replying to my comment! I did cover the pin hole and the rpms go up and down drastically, I have the new valve cover and tried to do it and just couldn't get the last 2 lower bolts by the fuel rail. My respects to you sir! Hard job! But I guess what one man can do another can do! I'll try next week!
I did it!! It only took me about an hour removing everything!! Putting it back together was a pain in the rear!! 7 hrs total!! Mostly dropping bolts and hunting them down! The fuel line was horrible!!! But thanks to your video that it encouraged me to tackle this!!!
@@jrponce875 the fuel rail is worst part congrats on finishing it!!!
Man i gotta put it back on tommorow smh 2nd one ive done still same struggle i dint even know how i took off or put back the other one i just remember fighting that danm metal line to the fuel rail
It’s a fight!! Blind install with the fuel rail