I was in the comment section when that part came up of how to add an extra 30 mm🤣.... that was pretty great, to do so I need to and then he disassembles the whole machine! I love engineering! There's always that one little part you forget that cost you hours of build time but at least you've gotten the rhythm of putting it together now!
10:15 since you seem to love it when it's all pretty and neat, may I suggest you add a ferrule crimper to your tool arsenal. Though there is no issue with the way you did your wiring, it just looks so neat with ferrules and it's cheap to buy and use. Love your videos Ivan, I can only imagine your colorful cursing after your minor setback lol Have you considered using Klipper firmware? at this size, your printer would greatly benefit from advanced features like input shaper. Cheers!
Agreed. The Duet has some very good features on its own, but Klipper adds a lot for relatively little money (if you can find a Raspberry Pi for MSRP these days). Only thing bad about Klipper is the community around it.
@@thomasschoonwater3390 Klipper will run a Duet with a Rpi or other powerful SBC plugged into it. The main reason I mentioned Klipper is because the larger the frame, the more it will suffer from resonance and Klipper has a function called 'input shaper' that is designed to compensate resonance; which produces nicer prints at faster speeds.
@@simonl7784 RepRapFirmware 3.4 and after for the Duet boards already has input shaping and accelerometer support. Has had the web interface and easy firmware editing via gcode config files (.cfg for Klipper -> .g for RRF) without the need for a SBC or a Rasberry Pi for years now. For this build I think the Duet board chosen will be great and more than enough. Are there any other significant features that are Klipper only?
Why lift the bed at all? I would have lifted the gantry like the vorons do, this way you are lifting always the same weight and won't get issues later with flex due to increasing weight the longer the print goes. Yes you demonstrated that it is able to lift your weight, but what about the flex of the bed?
That last shot of you sitting on the build platform all Zen-like as it rose was epic!! There aren't too many out there tackling the challenge of building a large format printer. Only other one I know of is David Florian (Dr. D-Flo).
With that size bed, I would've recommended a rack and pinion drive mechanism rather than a belt, which is prone to stretching under load. This is of particular concern, given the dynamic nature of the load as you print.
These high quality steel belts will do just fine at that huge width. Other parts are going to bend before any damaging amount of stretch happens. I'm sure he is going to use leveling on his bed which will compensate as time goes on. Even if they do stretch over time, it's going to be a slow process over time that will not make a measurable amount of difference during even a week long print.
@@csorrows I'm not talking about stretching from one print to the hundredth print. I'm talking about during a print. Even just a small amount of stretch, in the region considered negligible by the manufacturer, can result in dimensional changes to the printed part.
@@thomasbonse I guess your concern is valid. But you have to think in an all difetrnt direction. This printer is so bigg, you have to be happy if you have mm accursce. I mean even centimeters would not be crasy noticabel in the end
@@thomasbonse On a traditional printer perhaps sub-tenth-mm matters for extrusion on a 0.6mm nozzle...this machine won't be making layers that thin, and any dynamic loading will vary proportional to the print progress, so any stretch on the belt will be proportional to one layer of print, barely changing anything. Worst worst case is the software needs calibrating that the final height be off by a few mm for a hundred kg part.
@@frollard You're assuming even loading of the platform, which is not guaranteed. This is one of the reasons why even cheap and small printers don't use belts for the Z-axis.
The most useful lesson from this video is: if the costs in time/materials to correct a mistake is high enough, printing out nice plans and referring to them is cheap insurance against such beautiful mistakes that take so long to correct. I’m glad to see you’re human!
Cables work but they don't add as much rigidity as thread all. Cables will also allow vibrations to transfer to the frame more readily. Thread all gives you the ability to use them like iron rods but also the convenience of adjusting the size without having to cut them. It's a more rigid design using the thread all and that's what you need in a printer. We use cables in aviation because they are lighter and they allow for Flex. Flex is the enemy of this machine
@@MachineManGabb why would you dislike? Why not just correct or at least share your opinion so that if you're wrong you can be corrected. That's how we learn!
_Damn._ That is one heck of a demonstration at the end! I mean, with the bed already weighing in at a positively _chonky_ 15 kilos, I wasn't too concerned with it being able to support what it was printing...but _wow!_ As always, I appreciate it when experienced makers leave the mistakes and setbacks in their build videos, it inspires and reassures people who _aren't_ crazy top-tier makers to see that _everyone_ makes mistakes. 👍
I've been watching your channel for a long while now, and I'm always impressed at the scope of your projects. Also, I dig the music you use, it's not the same music that I see on a lot of other channels.
@@Insane_Kane Not sure if I did my math right, but not accounting for friction and assuming nothing else in that build will fail first (which it probably will), the 4 motors at 60nm each, assuming a pulley diameter of 3cm, will probably lift somewhere in the neighbourhood of 800 kg. Quite a few Ivans.
14:41 a good way to put balls in that track is with a pick and place with the narrow tip on. You can pick up the ball, push it in place and no balls will be harmed/lost in the process.
6.30 After all that hard work, if I had made an error like that it would have taken me six months to recover from the stress before correcting it. You really have a lot of patience. great job.
While the system can take the weight, once you sit down you can see the whole bed move down a little bit. That is the belts stretching and might result in accuracy issues with larger prints..
I feel so bad you had to take it apart. I was so happy at first at how easily you fit the z axis linear rails carriage on. I was wondering about that at the end of the previous video.
One of my engineering sayings/mottos "The only thing worse than similar but unique parts is similar but unique parts that don't look different". It's hard to keep track of slightly different parts through fabrication and into assembly...
This needs to be done in software and in firmware, but it might be possible with some enable/disable commands for start and end of each layer. Basically switching motors on and off or using a relay to switch their step signal.
I would still add pulleys and a counter weight to it just to lower the strain on the motors, and make them less likely to fail and drop. Still, can't wait to see it operational.
Sir, after going through making the board connectors you didn't use crimp lugs or ferrules on the power wires? 😱😱😱 That mixup on the frame was painful even from a spectator point of view. Glad you got it sorted.
Incredible build, if you carry on like this you'll be making 3D houses. But, just wondering why you didn't lift the bed with threaded bar and have the heavy steppers on the static frame.
The inexpensive threaded rod, like what he uses to fasten longer parts together with, can have some imperfections in the threading. Not enough to interfere with a nut too much, but maybe enough to throw off the precision Ivan wants with the bed motion.
Probably because in case something fails, the threaded bar will bind up, given that the print might weighs 100+ kg, that would be pretty difficult to fix, a beld can simply be cut. Not to mention that 4 rotating rods are much more dangerous, that 4 beld wheels that can easily be shielded, a printer that size isnt a toy, it has enough force to lose a few fingers.
OMG, youre projects get bigger and bigger. If ever you move to a resin printer, you will probably be taking over an olympic sized swimming pool somewhere! Thank you for your great videos, keep em coming.
If you ever decide to build even bigger printer, try designing a bed with counterweights (like an elevator). It allows to have better control even with weak motors, since they operate on weight difference. I've seen a dremel cnc with this approach, it worked fine.
That is a great idea for something this large. Some industrial CNC machines do in fact use counter-weights on cables, others use springs or even air cylinders to compensate for the weight. Often times the movable part weighs several hundred kg, so the compensation systems really do help.
Whilst looking at the bed, all I could think was a hydropneumatics centre mount might be cleaner, with unpowered runners on each vertical corner bar to prevent tilt. (but what the hell do I know? Awesome stuff.
Wow, I am a big fan of yours. Please do post about how to correctly put commands in marlin firmware and arduino uno app for 3d printer set ups. Thank you ! you might be the best instructor for us all.
Ivan, minor critique... The Z belt tensioners would be better on the bottom of the belt runs so that the tensioner blocks and screws weren't the elements holding all the weight. Probably ok now that it's in, but just a thought for future consideration :)
I Recommend Using Thicker Gauge wires for the DC power From The PSU or at Least doubling or quadrupling the wires you're using ,It might bite you in the Long run with more steppers and load ... Personally I preferred Acme Screws on the 4 corners ,Though you gotta work with what you Got .
That feeling when you realize you need to disassemble EVERYTHING 😅 epic build, so impressive. Let me know when you’re ready to sell them 🙌
Thanks!! we all have been there, it's just a matter of scale 😅😅
I was in the comment section when that part came up of how to add an extra 30 mm🤣.... that was pretty great, to do so I need to and then he disassembles the whole machine! I love engineering! There's always that one little part you forget that cost you hours of build time but at least you've gotten the rhythm of putting it together now!
That one hurt all the way to my soul
I can't wait to see this machine finally print! Good luck with finalizing this project :)
The wheel on the drill to turn the nutes, genius!
10:15 since you seem to love it when it's all pretty and neat, may I suggest you add a ferrule crimper to your tool arsenal. Though there is no issue with the way you did your wiring, it just looks so neat with ferrules and it's cheap to buy and use. Love your videos Ivan, I can only imagine your colorful cursing after your minor setback lol
Have you considered using Klipper firmware? at this size, your printer would greatly benefit from advanced features like input shaper. Cheers!
He's using a duet, so he already has reprap. I don't know if klipper would add many functions then
Agreed. The Duet has some very good features on its own, but Klipper adds a lot for relatively little money (if you can find a Raspberry Pi for MSRP these days). Only thing bad about Klipper is the community around it.
@@thomasschoonwater3390 Klipper will run a Duet with a Rpi or other powerful SBC plugged into it. The main reason I mentioned Klipper is because the larger the frame, the more it will suffer from resonance and Klipper has a function called 'input shaper' that is designed to compensate resonance; which produces nicer prints at faster speeds.
@@simonl7784 RepRapFirmware 3.4 and after for the Duet boards already has input shaping and accelerometer support. Has had the web interface and easy firmware editing via gcode config files (.cfg for Klipper -> .g for RRF) without the need for a SBC or a Rasberry Pi for years now. For this build I think the Duet board chosen will be great and more than enough. Are there any other significant features that are Klipper only?
¿ Hace impresiones de calidad o solo es un monstruo de aluminio y plastico?
Why lift the bed at all? I would have lifted the gantry like the vorons do, this way you are lifting always the same weight and won't get issues later with flex due to increasing weight the longer the print goes. Yes you demonstrated that it is able to lift your weight, but what about the flex of the bed?
Amazing Project, waiting for that big benchy on lake in your next thumbnail 🔥
Impressive project Ivan! 👏😎
That last shot of you sitting on the build platform all Zen-like as it rose was epic!! There aren't too many out there tackling the challenge of building a large format printer. Only other one I know of is David Florian (Dr. D-Flo).
Always look forward to Ivan's upbeat build videos. I mean they're so… uplifting 😉
Elevating, even.
As always, it's so fun to see your video edits that aren't too long and don't line up, really fun
incredible.
pushing the community forward
Ivan I am constantly amazed at your productivity. It takes me forever just to add drag chains to my laser cutter.
With that size bed, I would've recommended a rack and pinion drive mechanism rather than a belt, which is prone to stretching under load. This is of particular concern, given the dynamic nature of the load as you print.
These high quality steel belts will do just fine at that huge width. Other parts are going to bend before any damaging amount of stretch happens. I'm sure he is going to use leveling on his bed which will compensate as time goes on. Even if they do stretch over time, it's going to be a slow process over time that will not make a measurable amount of difference during even a week long print.
@@csorrows I'm not talking about stretching from one print to the hundredth print. I'm talking about during a print. Even just a small amount of stretch, in the region considered negligible by the manufacturer, can result in dimensional changes to the printed part.
@@thomasbonse
I guess your concern is valid.
But you have to think in an all difetrnt direction.
This printer is so bigg, you have to be happy if you have mm accursce.
I mean even centimeters would not be crasy noticabel in the end
@@thomasbonse On a traditional printer perhaps sub-tenth-mm matters for extrusion on a 0.6mm nozzle...this machine won't be making layers that thin, and any dynamic loading will vary proportional to the print progress, so any stretch on the belt will be proportional to one layer of print, barely changing anything. Worst worst case is the software needs calibrating that the final height be off by a few mm for a hundred kg part.
@@frollard You're assuming even loading of the platform, which is not guaranteed. This is one of the reasons why even cheap and small printers don't use belts for the Z-axis.
The most useful lesson from this video is: if the costs in time/materials to correct a mistake is high enough, printing out nice plans and referring to them is cheap insurance against such beautiful mistakes that take so long to correct.
I’m glad to see you’re human!
I always appreciate when makers show their mistakes. Also when Ivan needs to move plastic he doesn't mess around 😅.
Hey, hi, a good way to stiffen a square is to use steel cable under tension instead of the threaded rod. Its easier to install and cheaper.
Cables work but they don't add as much rigidity as thread all. Cables will also allow vibrations to transfer to the frame more readily. Thread all gives you the ability to use them like iron rods but also the convenience of adjusting the size without having to cut them. It's a more rigid design using the thread all and that's what you need in a printer. We use cables in aviation because they are lighter and they allow for Flex. Flex is the enemy of this machine
adding this reply because youtube doesn't show dislikes on comments.
@@MachineManGabb why would you dislike? Why not just correct or at least share your opinion so that if you're wrong you can be corrected. That's how we learn!
@@MachineManGabb hey hey their now their opinions are correct. Are you here to taunt them 🤔
@@imfloridano5448 a dislike should be plenty, steel wires under tension over time are rarely a good idea.
_Damn._ That is one heck of a demonstration at the end! I mean, with the bed already weighing in at a positively _chonky_ 15 kilos, I wasn't too concerned with it being able to support what it was printing...but _wow!_ As always, I appreciate it when experienced makers leave the mistakes and setbacks in their build videos, it inspires and reassures people who _aren't_ crazy top-tier makers to see that _everyone_ makes mistakes. 👍
Not to impressive, that thing can lift way over 1 metric ton.
@@jonasstahl9826 Impressive demonstration considering all it really _needs_ to do, is what I mean. Afterall, it's a 3D printer, not a vehicle lift. 😂
@@Bakamoichigei Thats for sure😁
Put a green screen behind it to be a levitating meditation master😆 Awesome work man, this is beyond insane.
I’m excited to see what you make on this beast
Wow, you made that whole stage without using a single spacer. Amazing!
Saw the first video and immediately was looking forward to the finished project, best of luck!
This is literally MY favorite channel. You should add some wheels to the bottom so you can move it around your shop
I love your video's, Ivan! You *almost* inspire me to fix the auto leveling issue I have on my printer.
fixed that yet? yeah thats right. you didn't
Almost only really counts etc etc
@@redmask1356 Nope. I did say almost after all :).
@@AlexHaan SHAME, i still gotta calibrate that bed tho, so I’m not any better, SHAME ON YOU STILL
Suddently ... My Chiron looks really small !!!
Really nice design !!!
I remember the days when all you had was an Ikea drill and a single screwdriver/hammer :)
Amazing how far this channel has come!
I think is not a 3D PRINTER, it's an elevator.
I like what do you create and I think your are the most people to create a giant 3D PRINTER.
You should invest in a crimping tool and spade terminals, great video!
This drilling and tapping channel has some pretty awesome 3d printing content! 😂
Lol
Not crimping the cables triggered me hard ^^ you are crazy talented.
His machines keep growing in size ... If this keeps up, in a few years he's going to DIY 3d print a shed or something.
I liked the use of washers to align the parts straight
I've been watching your channel for a long while now, and I'm always impressed at the scope of your projects. Also, I dig the music you use, it's not the same music that I see on a lot of other channels.
Amazing jobe of cable routing (and the planning it must have taken to get everything the right size and place)
Hi Ivan, great build till now but even the steppers are strong enough I would recommend a counterweight for the bed🤔😊
i wouldnt worry about the steppers, 4 high quality nema23 with a 43x or whatver it was reduction have enough torque to lift several ivans :P
@@Insane_Kane Not sure if I did my math right, but not accounting for friction and assuming nothing else in that build will fail first (which it probably will), the 4 motors at 60nm each, assuming a pulley diameter of 3cm, will probably lift somewhere in the neighbourhood of 800 kg. Quite a few Ivans.
@@XTJ7 You need to calculate with the radius not the diameter means you need to do the math with 1,5cm not 3cm, it can lift 1600kg.
@@jonasstahl9826 thanks for the correction! Even more Ivans :)
@@XTJ7 I hope he builds in some safety features and limits the power for the steppermotors, the Z axis can kill someone.
Surely you must now hold the world record for the biggest privately built 3D Printer!
I would bet he has an LLC. If not he really really needs to explore his options.
Dr. D-Flo has one pretty much the same size
There are others out there already
@@Aesavyx His is heated bed too. I would also bet he runs a Business or LLC too.
@@Aesavyx Never heard of Dr Flo
What a flex at the end there! Love it!
14:41 a good way to put balls in that track is with a pick and place with the narrow tip on. You can pick up the ball, push it in place and no balls will be harmed/lost in the process.
6.30 After all that hard work, if I had made an error like that it would have taken me six months to recover from the stress before correcting it.
You really have a lot of patience. great job.
okay the ending was freakin impressive
The amount of fit and finish on this project is fantastic. The design of the brackets and cross braces really make it look good.
I can’t wait to see it completed.
Now you can print big parts for a giant printer :D
Amazing video as always Ivan! Just wanted to say that I would really advise you to use Fork Terminals in situations like this: 10:49
Well, that's not just a bed frame, it could pretty much be a _bed_ frame!
cant wait to see this thing print some HUGE parts !!
While the system can take the weight, once you sit down you can see the whole bed move down a little bit. That is the belts stretching and might result in accuracy issues with larger prints..
Loved the idea with the roller and drill to get the nuts on, pro tip, if your drill fits, put the threaded rod in the chuck and hold the nuts. :)
Dr.D-Flo eat your heart out, man’s building giant 3d printers in a single video, not a 24 month epilogue 😂😂
If your resin printed pulleys start crumbling, try adding just a little bit of flexible resin to the mix. Works like a charm.
I feel so bad you had to take it apart. I was so happy at first at how easily you fit the z axis linear rails carriage on. I was wondering about that at the end of the previous video.
That ending was epic!
One of my engineering sayings/mottos "The only thing worse than similar but unique parts is similar but unique parts that don't look different". It's hard to keep track of slightly different parts through fabrication and into assembly...
Suggestion: Adding a small second z axis on the print head that just does z hop moves, might be a cool inovation.
This needs to be done in software and in firmware, but it might be possible with some enable/disable commands for start and end of each layer. Basically switching motors on and off or using a relay to switch their step signal.
Freaking sits on, and gets lifted by, the print bed. What an absolute chad!
New definition of crazy... And I thought I had gone too far with my CNC build Lol
This channel is so good 😁
A CNC can never be big enough, I work in a factory with three 3meter by 1.5meter cnc laser cutters and sometimes wish they were bigger
So so epic! Can't wait to see it print!
Make a chep cube or benchy as the first print please Ivan , can't wait to see this in action.
I was thinking, no way those belts will hold the weight. Then Ivan read my mind! This is awesome and looks great.
Great progress buddy!! It looks very good
Thank you for sharing this epic build, especially the Minor Setback and the work it took to rectify it. You're an amazing dude.
I love the wheel in the drill to move the nuts down the rod! 🤓
every person in the world that likes 3d printing should follow this channle.
YEP! This just gets better and better. That is one heck of a strength test! Nice work Ivan!
This is very impressive.
looking forward to see printer completed
I would still add pulleys and a counter weight to it just to lower the strain on the motors, and make them less likely to fail and drop. Still, can't wait to see it operational.
🤣 I was like *wtf* how are you going to fit a mattress on that? 🤔
it's such a joy to watch you progress through your epic builds. Love it!
So finally a 3D-printed Ivan…
Can't wait to see what the brackets you print on this will be for!
I'm betting on a 3D printer big enough to print houses.
you wouldnt download a car!
*Ivan downloads and prints a car*
Timing belts will flex with the added load of the print. Resulting in under-extrusion with heavy prints. As the Layer height is not predictable.
You should get some pulleys from Misumi, they're not the cheapest but should be available.
Cool - you built you own personal elevator!!
I'd love to see the process of you designing this
This printer is perfect for when you decide to make a house sized printer!
Sir, after going through making the board connectors you didn't use crimp lugs or ferrules on the power wires? 😱😱😱
That mixup on the frame was painful even from a spectator point of view. Glad you got it sorted.
tip: get some ferrules for the lose wires, it will make the connections more secure over time
pretty baller lifting yourself up at the end! This channel should have 1M subs no doubt!
No me cansare de decirlo. Eres un fenómeno.
Gracias por tus vídeos porque son impresionantes.
Saludos crack
These videos are so enjoyable. Keep up the good work!
Waited with bated breath for the next video and didn’t disappoint
Incredible build, if you carry on like this you'll be making 3D houses. But, just wondering why you didn't lift the bed with threaded bar and have the heavy steppers on the static frame.
They would probably be too expensive.
The inexpensive threaded rod, like what he uses to fasten longer parts together with, can have some imperfections in the threading. Not enough to interfere with a nut too much, but maybe enough to throw off the precision Ivan wants with the bed motion.
Probably because in case something fails, the threaded bar will bind up, given that the print might weighs 100+ kg, that would be pretty difficult to fix, a beld can simply be cut.
Not to mention that 4 rotating rods are much more dangerous, that 4 beld wheels that can easily be shielded, a printer that size isnt a toy, it has enough force to lose a few fingers.
@@jonasstahl9826 Your reasoning makes a lot more sense than mine 😄
@@michiganengineer8621 Thanks
You are a genius man
OMG, youre projects get bigger and bigger. If ever you move to a resin printer, you will probably be taking over an olympic sized swimming pool somewhere! Thank you for your great videos, keep em coming.
That's a great idea! Hmmmm… how many bottles of resin would be needed ? 🧐
@@oljobo I'm sure you could persuade a sponsor, but I'm not sure a sponsor would realise what they'd let themselves in for!
This is HUGE
You kill me! Meaning, you're amazing!
Hello, tres bonne conception version XXXL a voir pour la suite, j'attends avec impatience... bonne chance et bon courage
If you ever decide to build even bigger printer, try designing a bed with counterweights (like an elevator). It allows to have better control even with weak motors, since they operate on weight difference. I've seen a dremel cnc with this approach, it worked fine.
That is a great idea for something this large.
Some industrial CNC machines do in fact use counter-weights on cables, others use springs or even air cylinders to compensate for the weight. Often times the movable part weighs several hundred kg, so the compensation systems really do help.
Вот это уровень подготовки и реализации! Офигеть!
This would be a time where ball screws might actually be worth it on a 3d printer. But this is amazing!
Whilst looking at the bed, all I could think was a hydropneumatics centre mount might be cleaner, with unpowered runners on each vertical corner bar to prevent tilt. (but what the hell do I know? Awesome stuff.
Absolutely amazing!!!
Wow, I am a big fan of yours. Please do post about how to correctly put commands in marlin firmware and arduino uno app for 3d printer set ups. Thank you !
you might be the best instructor for us all.
Three days later… omg. 10 points for resilient optimism.
Ivan, minor critique... The Z belt tensioners would be better on the bottom of the belt runs so that the tensioner blocks and screws weren't the elements holding all the weight. Probably ok now that it's in, but just a thought for future consideration :)
your just too clever for one man! love your videos
i think you should get it tack welded a few places for optimal stiffness. this will help you in the long run for sure ! :) ...
I Recommend Using Thicker Gauge wires for the DC power From The PSU or at Least doubling or quadrupling the wires you're using ,It might bite you in the Long run with more steppers and load ... Personally I preferred Acme Screws on the 4 corners ,Though you gotta work with what you Got .
I felt your pain when having to take it all apart for a miscalculation!
aún no he visto el vídeo pero me ha gustado