I FINALLY CAVED, COREXY - GIANT 3D PRINTER BUILD PT. 4
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
- Check out PCBWay at: www.pcbway.com/?from=Ivan for 3D Printing, Sheet metal fabrication, Injection moulding, CNC services and more!
I kept doubting until the last minute while designing the printer but in the end I caved and went for the CoreXY arrangement on the XY axis belts.
It was easier to implement than I thought and harder to understand than I anticipated. I had to even make a prototype to wrap my head around the concept and still I'm not entirely sure about how to adjust for squareness but I'll get there eventually I'm sure.
I went all in with the motors because I hope to be able to print thinner layers really fast with this one but time will tell.
Send some love to www.polymaker.com to let them know that you like them supporting my madness.
CHAPTERS
00:00 Intro
00:20 What's CoreXY?
01:06 Gantry assembly
03:36 Installing the idlers
05:16 Replacing the Z pulleys
06:19 The motors
08:10 Installing the belts
09:22 Testing
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First print will be a corner piece to an even larger printer. 😁
Deal! 👊
@@ivanmirandawastaken I sure hope it will max out the print area!
@@ivanmirandawastaken Make a printer that's mounted on the walls of the room you're in, also using COREXY. :)
Perhaps with 'belt & pinion' - would be cool to see, and less problems with tension/stretching.
Hey Sean, caught you there 😊
I'm pretty sure that Polymaker has a dedicated factory just for the red filament.
just for Ivan
maybe not before, but now they need to xD
They have a factory dedicated only for Ivan
I count 33 boxes, how many kg is that.
@@SidneyCritic 165?
Here’s the CoreXY explainer comment!
The primary goal, as Ivan said, is to reduce the moving weight of the system. By keeping the motors stationary, you accomplish this. Unfortunately, it becomes difficult to isolate the movement of the motors into the two separate X and Y axes, so they end up getting combined like he demonstrated.
Previously, in industrial machinery with very stiff gantries, you could accomplish this with a kinematic system called an H-bot (called this because the belt forms an H shape), which was very simple and didn’t involve any belt crossing. It does however, REQUIRE the gantry to be very stiff, as X direction moves applied force to only one side of the gantry, exerting a twisting force on it.
With the advent of 3D printers, pretty much the first consumer-tier high speed cartesian robots, a new system was needed, in order to not require a super stiff (and therefore heavy and expensive) gantry. CoreXY had been used throughout history, most notably in computerized drafting tables, but didn’t see it’s big moment until people realized it’s perfect for fast (or in this case very large) 3D printers.
As for how each system actually works: here’s a quick explainer:
- H-bot kinematics use one very long belt, which wraps around each motor with both ends at the carriage. This means that there is only one way to pull the carriage in each direction. Since each end comes from a different side of the gantry, those same forces are applied to only one side of the gantry, causing it to twist.
- CoreXY kinematics essentially just double up the H-bot design, adding a second belt, running in the opposite direction to the first (with one motor per belt) so that each carriage move produces two equal and opposite forces on the gantry, cancelling out the twisting forces.
Told'ya
@@ivanmirandawastaken Just doing my job ;)
I built a CoreXY, well, I modded my weird XY bedflinger to be a CoreXY bedflinger, and there is always a tradeoff. In the case of the CoreXY, you trade the mass on one axis for much longer belts that are a bit more prone to ringing. And you still have one axis with a greater mass than the other. A crossed gantry design (sometimes called "quadrap") has shorter belts and both axes have the same mass, but it requires more hardware to prevent racking.
For extreme large machines like this a cross xy gantry would work better. Way shorter belt so less resonance on it.
@@TDOBrandano yeah, honestly on something this big I’d probably do rack and pinion or a stationary belt drive just for precisions sake. Most of the time spent printing is gonna be long straight lines, so the lower accelerations needed for a heavier gantry wouldn’t have as much of an impact on print time.
Our pleasure to help you fab these parts out and most importantly, nice content as always, Ivan 👍
Cheers!
@@ivanmirandawastaken What is the cost of those pulleys in aluminum though?
@@ionstorm66 I want the same answer. I thought about getting a quote to see if it is worth it or not. However, if they do not exist already off the shelf, the cost could be worth it. Hopefully it is low enough to not regret the purchase after the fact. Inevitably this size of printer is going to become commonplace in the next few years and the parts will be readily available. I have been collecting parts for a couple years and plan on making one at least this size. I just need the space.
$1000
@@jesuslovesyou5819 that would be too much, for sure. I hope it's not that high.
For folks building their own printer: When tensioning the belts on coreXY, you need to keep the Y-gantry square with the frame. The easiest way to do that is to move it to one end of the printer and tie it down there temporarily while you tension the belts. When you pull on one belt, it will want to move the gantry out of square, and this is normally held in check by the tension from the other belt. This is why both belts need to have the same tension, and why you need the gantry held square while the belt tensions are uneven while being adjusted.
foam filling will reduce noise or stick some rubber sheet in different locations to stop reverberations and hollow tubes that are magnifying the sound. awesome built Ivan. Well done
Aw man I love this kind of engineering, everything is so modular and well planned/fitting. Bolts everywhere, no destructive connection. It's like a giant toy lol
change the idles with puly's so the ribs of the belt doesnt slide over the idlers -> makes it more silence and less vibrations.
Definitely one of my favorite video in a while. I really enjoy when you talk about the process along the way
My pleasure!
Bravo, excellent design, Ivan. All of those long-length belts and frame stability are a big challenge.
I can't wait to see the printing quality of this machine.
Keep going
Seriously amazing. It seems straight forward but CoreXY is still a mystery to me.
Hey, thanks for the constant encouragement at the end of your videos. I'm finally back working on one of my project while watching this.
00:34 Fantastic explanation. You made it simple to understand the Core-XY system of movement.
your videos are truely inspirational, youve given me the belief I can make things myself, I am currently making a 3D printed CNC router that can cut a full sheet of plywood. I am 1 week of continual printing into printing out the parts. hopefully in the near future I will say I have made something!!!!!
I am making a cnc too. Good luck mate!
Love the last shot with the camera on the gantry 😁 this project is amazing!
Great build. The design and implementation is very impressive. Thank you!
Your wire management is really nice. I wish I had the patience to do that.
on a printer this large, you have to manage the wires or you'll run into problems at one time.
That's just brilliant, Ivan! Fantastic work! 😃
Looking forward to the next step!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome! Your enthusiasm and creativity have inspired me. This is an amazing project, like many of your others, and I can't wait to see how it goes!
Ivan, very cool videos from the very beginning I have been following all your projects.
Each video makes me more proud of being one of your subs. Thanks for leting me know you with these videos!
Keep up the amazing and inspiring work!!
Very clean build 👌 i like your wire management. Awesome progress. Cant wait to see the rest. Good job
WOW....this thing gets better and better!
super awesome work Ivan! congrats on the first try success! :P
i think a large part of the sound and belt vibrations are coming from the belt teeth running over smooth idlers(/bearings). i'm pretty sure you can buy appropriate idlers and it not get PCBway to hook you up.
the pallet of polymaker filament is pretty sweet, but maybe ask them for pellets and a pellet extruder.
alternatively, a multi-input hotend like the diamond, modded with multiple heat zones and drilled out to 1mm+ will let you push lots of filament and multiple spools at the same time.
You can also turn over the belt so it rolls on the flat side. It just take some clever additional pullies to engage with the motor-pulley
@@bee2hive or he could just use toothet idlers...
I was going to make the same comment about the smooth idlers, I'm also interested IF they'll leave any noticeable printing artifacts
Regardless this build is badass and i can't wait to see it print :)
Awesome!! I cant wait to see it printing and all the crazy project you will do with it!! 😀👍
Loved the corexy video pov at the end was awesome.
Something about the sound of that machine is so satisfying!😂👍🏻
Absolutely outstanding! I love your projects!
9:23 that winner smile 👍 well deserved, great job!
I can feel the thrill just by watching the machine moving!!
@7:41
That is some REALLY satisfying cable management.
Extremely impressive work as always, Ivan! This thing is turning into a seriously solid fabrication rig. Super excited to see what’s next. :)
Hey Ivan, please check out vzbot AWD for example adding 2 more motors on top :) shorter paths realy would help this build !
the shorter the paths the less problem with torque cause of the heavy belts adding 2 more motors on the top would realy make a big difference a specialy for a printer this size :)
At that point, crossed gantry would probably be more worth it imo- significantly shorter belt paths and a lot more rigidity
Absolutely brilliant work👏👏
I freakin' love this build! Thanks for the great videos and all the extra details you include.
Even the noise is nice 😅. Great job. I'm excited to see the first printing.
Great editing!
You can put a twist in the belts to allow the smooth side to run on the bearings.
I enjoy that you explained the model you were printing even though you weren't printing
Very nice looking printer. If you are looking to make it even more insane, you could upgrade to a CoreXY AWD by adding 2 more steppers at the idlers. It would give you greater stiffness in the belts thanks to shorter paths between motors and gantry as well as more acceleration. If you want to lighten up your X axis, machining pockets in the aluminium extrusion is a known way to do it as long as you don't remove too much metal. Or straight up use a square carbon fiber extrusion. That way you lower the moving mass. The frame itself already seems very stiff, using steel instead of aluminium could improve that. Since it is immobile, that added mass is no big problem and will help damp gantry induced vibrations. Sand filling could also work. Don't know what kind of hotend you plan to use (maybe even a custom one?), but with this size it better be a very high flow one to take advantage of such a large print volume.
admirable effrots. thanks for sharing.
Impresionante Iván.
Gracias por todo
Saludos
You are a madman. Brilliant!!
Always amazing! Keep up the great work!
You're a good sport Ivan. I hope this printer makes your dreams come true!
Your cable routing is legendary
That's a thing of beauty!
Haha love the last shot where you mounted the camera on the gantry!
You're absolutely inspiring man!
Reminds me of the 1m^3 Hevort I designed and built last year. Nice work.
The captions are great - apparently when the gantry moves, it's "foreign music" and "applause". Excellent video as usual!
Awesome work!
you made my day man thanks!
❤‼️😃 Great! And fun!
Great content and SUCH great editing! 🥰
Very cool to see it work first try :D I just finally finished building your desktop cnc, was so thrilled when I got everything working and moving around, such a great feeling :D
Yes!! WELL DONE!
Nice setup. One trick to confirm that there's equal tension (without a belt tension tester) on the belts is to pluck them and hear the sound on an equal distanced area like across the back of the back of the printer. then you can use a guitar tuner or by ear and hear if they have similar tone.
La verdad es que estoy flipando con los proyectos que haces Ivan. Y esta impresora tiene una pinta alucinante. Impaciente por ver el siguiente vídeo.
Más vídeos!
Fill the stationary frame with sand to reduced the amplified noise of the steppers and reduce vibration.
Well... It's sounding like a spaceship... I don't know if changing it would be a good idea... 🤔
There have been tests, other then being a danger to the mechanics, filling spaces so comparatively small with sand does not help.
That is a great way to do nothing and get sand everywhere and destroy your mechanism
Better to use PU foam to absorb resonance and ringing of frame tubes.
Could some of the vibration be from the toothed belt going over small round idlers? Or is it all motor switching noise?
This is quite amazing
Ivan, thank you for your video series. In industrial robotics what you have made is called an H-bot. They are perfect for this type of application where the Z height of the end effector (print nozzle in this case) remains constant. The sound you are is a byproduct of the resonant frequency of the components connected to the source (motors). Adding mass or dampeners at the right locations will reduce the amplitude of the transmitted sound. This could be a block of rubber next to the motors inside the hollow aluminum tube or filling the tubes with sand or other material.
In the lingo of 3d printers, an h-bot is different from core xy. An h-bot uses a simpler belt routing, but has the disadvantage of causing torque on the moving axis.
i tried the polymaker pteg recently and was extremely satisfied
11:00 that sounds awesome. It sounds like the alarm systems from Star Wars 😁
Very good job !
Why can't I like this video more than once!!!
Smart choice Ivan! It sounds haunted.... How appropriate! XD
Sorted, can't to see your first print👍
Great machine....:)
Sounds like bigger idler bearings will reduce the noise a lot. I can hear the belt teeth impacting on the skate board bearings. Put a couple of bearings on a shaft in the vice and run a loop of belt by hand to test if I am right.
Super cool channel! :) I'm following this build only but wow, 10/10.
This just got epic!
Gotta love some core XY
Need noise bumper under motors. Great job.
Great video!
Very cool!! Now you gotta get klipper installed on it.
Nice video and that's like a lot of red filament spools! I never saw that much of one color ;)
Ivan you're the dam boss 👊
Ivan it isn't caving! It is simply the "right way" :) Keep on going man!
Awesome Ivan! I do really want to know what kind of motors and drivers you use, because I think that the sound could be dampened a lot by using the correct settings.
I love it, It's a new type of musical instrument right? The 3d printed corners and most parts are hollow PLA Chambers that amplify the resonance of the steppers. IMHO -Silent drivers? - add dampening material in the corners and bars. Add weights to the frame that can be placed in various spots to reduce the resonance noise across the beams. Turnbuckles would work really well as a replacement to the current bracing system allowing you to use a synthetic fiber (NON-stretch) to decouple vibrations, allowing for increased tension to tune out vibrations. I have also had great success at reducing Motor noise by strapping large heatsinks or weights (non-Ferris) to the side of a stepper to reduce vibrations in stationary motors. Nice Project cannot wait to see this print or at least play a nice tune.
Bella barked at 10:55 - you might be onto something in the dog calling market lol
lol, the pup can recognise a good machine juat by the sound of it.
The noise of the motors in Vase mode reminded me Doom 93 doors opening. Nice project ;-)
I love your designs. Clean and simple. 👌
I'm not a CoreXY fan btw. This belt is long enough to make problems.
Agree with others that said to replace the smooth idlers with toothed idlers
Love your design! can't wait to see it fully functional.
Thought; Have you given any thought to some additional cooling on the stepper motors? Maybe some additional cooling would help insure they don't get to hot and burn up...? not sure it'll help with the noise, but may be something to look into?
Great job, keep the content coming!
Sir, you have brass ones to stand THAT close to tensioned, untested belts at that speed lol. Looks amazing! Can't wait too see the hotend choice!
Sounds like an ambulance at slower speeds ahaha.
Great work!
Inspiring thank you
Dude, you are awesome
I LOVE this!
Toothed idler pulleys would probably be good with belts that coarse, maybe also use a larger radius
great update... I've built my COREXY printer few years back and also had difficulties understanding how the hell it's supposed to work :)
When is the next part? These shorter videos are killing me :) Ivan is the best.
Fantástico Ivan. 👏👏👏
You could machine/grind a slot along the length of the rail from the bottom flange base up the web to reduce the mass - lol -.
You could also drill holes up from the bottom flange to make it lighter.
I love polymaker filament
Literally how an etch-a-sketch works 😂 funny how this technology can be used from industrial applications to a kids toy!
Fantastic👍👍👍
Such a satisfaying cable management though x_x
It'd want to be the right colour! It just wouldn't be Ivan without that red!
polymaker!!!! yeaaa
Love the sci-fi spaceship sounds from the motors running, though if you find it gets annoying maybe switching to idlers with teeth on them might be quieter than the belt teeth running over the smooth idlers?
You need to use teethed idlers for the belts at the back that touch the belt teeth.