4:16 ditch the snake and just make a bow (think tent pole bows) above the printer where you suspend the cables with a "tray" that's similar to the forming piece of plastic used by washing machine manufacturers so that evacuation tubes can stick around bathtubs. It will not impede motion, it will support the cables properly and you don't have any drag on the moving parts from it. It's similar to what robotic engineers use to keep the cables out of the way of their robots when they're in testing phase and have a ton of extra sensitive wires attached to them.
LOL @ 0:12 - "don't have a turntable? Turn it with your hands!" genius ;) I've really enjoyed following this build. Great content. Keep it up! You're an inspiration to us beginner content creators. Your ideas are so clever, like heating the PTFE tubing. Really enjoyed this video
I have learned how to use Onshape because it is the CAD software that my engineering program at my high school uses and I find it great to use especially for group projects!
12:09 that is not how you measure the calibration cube, you measure it from top to avoid the corner overshoot which can throw your measurements off quite significantly
love it, great work. i would have made a bracket on top for the filament, so it has not to travel such a big distance, it would be just from the middle to the corner.
I would be interested in seeing what a set of five Benchys would look like when compared? one in the center and one in each corner. How accurate is the machine when it travels a lot and then does fine work for each layer?
I dont know if your already using it but maybe use Klipper input shaper it removes the ringing from prints so the fast calibration cube would Look way better and while your at it calibrate Klipper pressure advance it removes the ugly corners at higher speed so higher speed at bettet quality. For cooling i would recommend you use something called cpap or hvac they are ways to get way more cooling
Truly a manument in design and execution. I LOVE the fact that the first thing we saw you print on such a behemoth printer was a little benchy! Class move there. You could print a large home appliance chassis in this thing. Think, DIY chest freezer, washer, dryer, etc. This thing is huge!
Ivan, the trap you put us in is the seamless 30 min videos we are enjoying. BUT, if we started to do any of your projects... The wall will be cracked as we're hitting it daily with our heads, countless times 🥹
Hey Ivan I guess the odds of you reading this are pretty low, but your part cooling solution is woefully inadequate for the amount of plastic you're laying down and the speeds you're doing it at. That's why your 9min benchy and speed setting cube have quality issues. Your printer should totally be capable of laying down those prints without drooping. A single 5015 is already too little for my normal mosquito using 500mm coreXY, so I've got about 1/2 or 1/3 the flow you're getting while I'm also using a VASTLY superior fanshroud design with less static pressure problems. I really recommend switching to twin 5015s(if you want to keep it quiet-ish) or to something like a server delta fan(40mm radial). I'd also recommend looking into the "pressure advance" option in the firmware for your duet mainboard, they have a good page explaining the process of tuning it and it will improve the dimensional accuracy of sharp corners at high speeds(something that's very noticeably off on your cube) Hope this helps make the giant printer even better.
this guy is genuinely a genius, like who else would have thought to feed the PTFE tube through the metal tube with the torch??????? like he's really smart
The first thing, seeing Ivan stab the plastic bag of the vacuum sealed filament. I know that Nic from @polymaker is yelling "Nooooooooo!!" LOL!! Great project! Awesome of Polymaker, for supporting these builds.
Only 5 points to level the Z axis - that's some serious confidence that the bed isn't warped. What is the 1st layer thickness tolerance for adequate adhesion? A large 1mm thick spider web print to dial in adhesion over the whole bed would be interesting. I dabbled in milling PCBs and a common technique is to probe the entire surface into a map that then adjusts (or floats) the Z axis on the fly to keep the tip within much more precise tolerances to the bed.
@@ivanmirandawastaken Didn't count on getting a reply, that is awesome. I wouldn't dare to make 90% of what you have made in the past, but your videos slowly but surely push me towards the tipping point where I will not rest until I begin working on something similarly crazy. You are an inspiration.
I got to say I’ve been watching your channel for at least three years now and my absolutely love the stuff you do the big printers that are coming out now are awesome. Keep up the awesome work man.❤
Ivan, love the vids, been watching them for ages. I really enjoy watching you build, but I’d love to see your design process and why you chose certain methods. I assume that takes longer than assembly. I just feel like that part is missing in the process. Always, great video.
any plans available like the other one? im looking to make an even more massive printer and love the corexy of this one. i essentially would just like to scale it as tall as rigidity allows, maybe cnc the corner brackets and center all thread tensioner in the name of printing one or two piece paddleboards and surfboards. any help would be greatly appreciated
How do you combat warping on your large prints? I print PLA and if the surface of the print is larger than 200x200mm i have insane warping. I print 215C no heated bed, glass with glue-stick
You might want to buy a FLIR ONE Pro so you can look at your extruder and electronic thermals. Also, if anything has enough friction (ie in the filament tube) you can spot it.
Curious for the carriage cable and filament management why didn't you use two drag chains? On for the x-axis going from the side of the frame to the extruder, then one for the y-axis going from the corner of the frame to the point where the the x-axis chain is? (So on from mod point of x-axis to edge with slack to allow carriage to do full x-axis movement, and one from y-axis mid point to edge with slack for all y-axis travel). You'd need additional metal stock to create mounting points above the belts and allow the chain to rest without hitting the belts etc.. There obviously is a reason cause you didn't do that so I'm just wondering what that reason was?
Could you mount the filament reel in the middle of the y axis on the floor and have the same system as on the smaller printer for the filament mounted on the rail that moves front to back. Then one axis is taken care of at the side of the printer and the other is the same as on the smaller printer on top.
You are one MAD LAD IVAN MIRANDA 😂. Admittedly, your projects are like that friend your parents don’t want you hanging out with. They keep pulling me towards madness and an insane desire to build REALLY REALLY BIG THINGS! LOL, dude you are, THE DUDE.
Use a cold stream/jet of air to cool the melted plastic and control how fast is cooling and especially the SHAPE - you could remove those "round corners" very easy... This will make your printing more stable and fast.
Please tell me how you dealt with retract settings for that nozzle diameter…? I have a Supervolcano hotend and even with a hemera direct drive with gearing the retract oozing is awful!
For the Philament Transport, Can't you use one High Post in one Corner of the printer and With one or two pulleys just "Linear Rope" it to the Printerhead?
Now i got your attention Ivan, please the cable chain is only for cables not filament. I would have done all the opposite with fixed table and moving Axis going up. Thats industry standard, hope you accept my comments.
Very happy for you and the printer! Just being able to see it ready feels like a privelege 🙏😊. Whatever you choose to print from here, it will be revolutionary 😊 I hope it will not just a big Benchyboat, but something practical, useful, playful or at least less boring than a Benchy 🙏😊 Celebratory cheers from Norway 🙏🥳
Hi @Ivan Miranda Very Nice!!! I knew you were going to print a giant benchy with it 😆 Looking forward to seeing the Big Scale Benchy Cheers Evel-Knievel
Anyone can build a project and stick it on TH-cam. Making it entertaining is a whole different level and not everyone achieves it - but *these* are definitely fun to watch.
Bro thats awesome. I‘m planning on building a laser engraver with a CoreXY gantry (about 1200x800mm), how is the belt tensioning? What belt width do you use? What is the max moving speed you can achieve?
Your builds are insane, and this printer is absolutely massive. Have you considered something like Dr. D-flo's pellet extruder for bigger nozzle sizes? The Magnum+ is nice, but it's hitting its limit at some point no doubt, and then time is a huge factor again. Maybe I'll get to building a massive printer like this one day, if I have my own workshop; It'd be so cool to have my own, printed furniture.
This is amazing! I'm building one now... :) Watching your videos has made me feel confident enough to take the leap from working with kit printers to making my own. I already have Experience in Fusion 360, so I think I could actually pull of the drawings. Can't wait to see the schematics put up!!!
4:18 - I am wondering if a 10 or 16 mm pex with the swivel mounts, where the hose goes through the bearings would work? 🤔🤓 Really cool made printer - cannot wait to see some projects with this - great work 💪👌
Now you just have to make an Ivan sized Benchy, seal it with Totalboat resin & then slap a little outboard motor on it & ride around in a pond in your Benchy!
There's a company selling red filament that really loves this guy
Polymaker sponsors all the red filament for my videos 😉
😂😂😂😂
@@ivanmirandawastaken happy to see you are enjoying the filament!
@@ivanmirandawastaken Are you sure YOU don't sponsor THEM??? haha - so much filament
😂😂😂😂
Thanks Ivan we love you!
4:16 ditch the snake and just make a bow (think tent pole bows) above the printer where you suspend the cables with a "tray" that's similar to the forming piece of plastic used by washing machine manufacturers so that evacuation tubes can stick around bathtubs. It will not impede motion, it will support the cables properly and you don't have any drag on the moving parts from it. It's similar to what robotic engineers use to keep the cables out of the way of their robots when they're in testing phase and have a ton of extra sensitive wires attached to them.
I would definitely love to see a video on tuning this printer witch pressure advance and input shaping. Insane build man!
and bed mesh
I'm afraid the input shaping vibration test will pull the printer apart... 😂
LOL @ 0:12 - "don't have a turntable? Turn it with your hands!" genius ;) I've really enjoyed following this build. Great content. Keep it up! You're an inspiration to us beginner content creators. Your ideas are so clever, like heating the PTFE tubing. Really enjoyed this video
Bro... The Onshape ad at 6:09 has the Oceangate submersible that imploded...
OnShape is flipping awesome! I used it to create a bracket for my drone to hold the GPS puck.
I have learned how to use Onshape because it is the CAD software that my engineering program at my high school uses and I find it great to use especially for group projects!
Impressive project Ivan! 👏😎
..love the solution for the drag chain!
Hi marsgizmo
It’s cool when someone actually does something with a printer instead of just making waste for ticktock veiws(fuck you margizmo)
12:09 that is not how you measure the calibration cube, you measure it from top to avoid the corner overshoot which can throw your measurements off quite significantly
Is that onshape add featuring the design of the ocean gate submarine?
Why use a bowden tube as apposed to direct drive with this beast?
It is direct drive
10:15 You might want to also map a height grid of the surface with the probe, since that glass might not be perfectly flat.
He could certainly use ABL with this setup.
love it, great work. i would have made a bracket on top for the filament, so it has not to travel such a big distance, it would be just from the middle to the corner.
YOU ROCK MATE! thank you for sharing your sense of electric energy+humour+enthusiasm+knowledge! APPRECIATE YOU 🙏🏻
I would be interested in seeing what a set of five Benchys would look like when compared? one in the center and one in each corner. How accurate is the machine when it travels a lot and then does fine work for each layer?
I dont know if your already using it but maybe use Klipper input shaper it removes the ringing from prints so the fast calibration cube would Look way better and while your at it calibrate Klipper pressure advance it removes the ugly corners at higher speed so higher speed at bettet quality. For cooling i would recommend you use something called cpap or hvac they are ways to get way more cooling
Truly a manument in design and execution. I LOVE the fact that the first thing we saw you print on such a behemoth printer was a little benchy! Class move there.
You could print a large home appliance chassis in this thing. Think, DIY chest freezer, washer, dryer, etc. This thing is huge!
Ivan, the trap you put us in is the seamless 30 min videos we are enjoying. BUT, if we started to do any of your projects... The wall will be cracked as we're hitting it daily with our heads, countless times 🥹
Eres el mejor. Llevas el mundo de la impresión 3D varios pasos más allá. Enhorabuena por tu contenido.
Hey Ivan I guess the odds of you reading this are pretty low, but your part cooling solution is woefully inadequate for the amount of plastic you're laying down and the speeds you're doing it at. That's why your 9min benchy and speed setting cube have quality issues. Your printer should totally be capable of laying down those prints without drooping.
A single 5015 is already too little for my normal mosquito using 500mm coreXY, so I've got about 1/2 or 1/3 the flow you're getting while I'm also using a VASTLY superior fanshroud design with less static pressure problems.
I really recommend switching to twin 5015s(if you want to keep it quiet-ish) or to something like a server delta fan(40mm radial).
I'd also recommend looking into the "pressure advance" option in the firmware for your duet mainboard, they have a good page explaining the process of tuning it and it will improve the dimensional accuracy of sharp corners at high speeds(something that's very noticeably off on your cube)
Hope this helps make the giant printer even better.
this guy is genuinely a genius, like who else would have thought to feed the PTFE tube through the metal tube with the torch??????? like he's really smart
The first thing, seeing Ivan stab the plastic bag of the vacuum sealed filament. I know that Nic from @polymaker is yelling "Nooooooooo!!" LOL!! Great project! Awesome of Polymaker, for supporting these builds.
This little build series is the 1st thing I saw from this dude and I love him
Ivan, que impresa tan hermosa! Gracias por compartierlo con nosotros!! Saludos!!
Boy that example of onShape at 6:13 didn't age well...
"Scale it! A lot!" We want to see it right away!
Only 5 points to level the Z axis - that's some serious confidence that the bed isn't warped. What is the 1st layer thickness tolerance for adequate adhesion? A large 1mm thick spider web print to dial in adhesion over the whole bed would be interesting.
I dabbled in milling PCBs and a common technique is to probe the entire surface into a map that then adjusts (or floats) the Z axis on the fly to keep the tip within much more precise tolerances to the bed.
I'm so happy every time you upload! You are really good at making stuff. Keep it up mate :)
Thanks!
@@ivanmirandawastaken Didn't count on getting a reply, that is awesome. I wouldn't dare to make 90% of what you have made in the past, but your videos slowly but surely push me towards the tipping point where I will not rest until I begin working on something similarly crazy. You are an inspiration.
Sweet! So glad there was no smoke this time. Looking forward to see what this peinter can do.
I got to say I’ve been watching your channel for at least three years now and my absolutely love the stuff you do the big printers that are coming out now are awesome. Keep up the awesome work man.❤
The most organized person I've come across!
Dude!!! I love this guys energy. I like watching him overengineer stuff too.
Overengineering is engineering, underengineering is hacking.
Ivan, love the vids, been watching them for ages. I really enjoy watching you build, but I’d love to see your design process and why you chose certain methods. I assume that takes longer than assembly. I just feel like that part is missing in the process. Always, great video.
"please consider supporting my madness..." has to be the most honest donation request i've read for a long time online!
I love that you needed to use a drag chain XD
any plans available like the other one? im looking to make an even more massive printer and love the corexy of this one. i essentially would just like to scale it as tall as rigidity allows, maybe cnc the corner brackets and center all thread tensioner in the name of printing one or two piece paddleboards and surfboards. any help would be greatly appreciated
I want to make something like that so badly
How do you combat warping on your large prints? I print PLA and if the surface of the print is larger than 200x200mm i have insane warping. I print 215C no heated bed, glass with glue-stick
Why do I want to see Ivan sitting inside a benchy boat... speaking of, love the dramatic presentation of the 100% benchy on the Ivan-sized printer
You might want to buy a FLIR ONE Pro so you can look at your extruder and electronic thermals. Also, if anything has enough friction (ie in the filament tube) you can spot it.
That printer is gonna hecka useful
Curious for the carriage cable and filament management why didn't you use two drag chains? On for the x-axis going from the side of the frame to the extruder, then one for the y-axis going from the corner of the frame to the point where the the x-axis chain is? (So on from mod point of x-axis to edge with slack to allow carriage to do full x-axis movement, and one from y-axis mid point to edge with slack for all y-axis travel).
You'd need additional metal stock to create mounting points above the belts and allow the chain to rest without hitting the belts etc..
There obviously is a reason cause you didn't do that so I'm just wondering what that reason was?
Какая хорошая работа! Красавчик! На таком принтере уже можно печатать серьезные детали.
Could you mount the filament reel in the middle of the y axis on the floor and have the same system as on the smaller printer for the filament mounted on the rail that moves front to back. Then one axis is taken care of at the side of the printer and the other is the same as on the smaller printer on top.
would it not be more practical to have the top drag chain be separated into two axis? or would that not work?
Wow, the speed of that homing is terrifying.
Insane, you should create your own 3d printer company. It would be awesome
WOOH! You rock!
I imagine Ivan laying on the print bed, shouting "I can't reach the print!!!"
You are one MAD LAD IVAN MIRANDA 😂. Admittedly, your projects are like that friend your parents don’t want you hanging out with. They keep pulling me towards madness and an insane desire to build REALLY REALLY BIG THINGS! LOL, dude you are, THE DUDE.
Use a cold stream/jet of air to cool the melted plastic and control how fast is cooling and especially the SHAPE - you could remove those "round corners" very easy...
This will make your printing more stable and fast.
Please tell me how you dealt with retract settings for that nozzle diameter…? I have a Supervolcano hotend and even with a hemera direct drive with gearing the retract oozing is awful!
If you use a Duet, you can use an accelerometer. Judgind by the patterns in the faster test cube, you can improve a lot with an accelerometer.
For the Philament Transport, Can't you use one High Post in one Corner of the printer and With one or two pulleys just "Linear Rope" it to the Printerhead?
congrats Ivan from Malta
👊
Now i got your attention Ivan, please the cable chain is only for cables not filament. I would have done all the opposite with fixed table and moving Axis going up. Thats industry standard, hope you accept my comments.
That's spectacular Ivan, great job!
Nice work! But when will it's files be available to buy on your site tho?
Very happy for you and the printer! Just being able to see it ready feels like a privelege 🙏😊.
Whatever you choose to print from here, it will be revolutionary 😊
I hope it will not just a big Benchyboat, but something practical, useful, playful or at least less boring than a Benchy 🙏😊
Celebratory cheers from Norway 🙏🥳
That runout switch is awesome!
4:31
I didn't think that wound work. I thought it would melt. I Never have thought of that as a solution to curly wire/tubing
:: Just realizing the "bug" is biting again... :: Must... build... something... crazy... cool! Thanks for inspiring again.
Do you need the aluminum plate underneath the glass bed? Doesn't glass transmit heat better than aluminum+glass?
Great, you should ask e3d for some toolchanger assemblies. or add a second printhead with a supervolcano with a huge nozzle for faster prints
Hi @Ivan Miranda
Very Nice!!! I knew you were going to print a giant benchy with it 😆
Looking forward to seeing the Big Scale Benchy
Cheers
Evel-Knievel
Anyone can build a project and stick it on TH-cam. Making it entertaining is a whole different level and not everyone achieves it - but *these* are definitely fun to watch.
hahaha thanks for printing the Benchy like I suggested on Twitter, I loved seeing the tiny Benchy in the middle of that massive bed 😂
Just imagine how big the next printer will be. Making houses on the fly.
Very cool 3D printer. If I had a separate workshop, I would have made one in any case! I'm also a fan of self-collection!
There is something wonderful and hilarious about printing a tiny little benchy on that gigantic printer.
Wow thats really cool! Well done!
Thanks!
Bro thats awesome. I‘m planning on building a laser engraver with a CoreXY gantry (about 1200x800mm), how is the belt tensioning? What belt width do you use? What is the max moving speed you can achieve?
This was well worth the wait!
The appropriate benchy for this colossus should be the Titanic
Your builds are insane, and this printer is absolutely massive. Have you considered something like Dr. D-flo's pellet extruder for bigger nozzle sizes? The Magnum+ is nice, but it's hitting its limit at some point no doubt, and then time is a huge factor again.
Maybe I'll get to building a massive printer like this one day, if I have my own workshop; It'd be so cool to have my own, printed furniture.
I wonder if a big nozzle could be fed with 2 filaments at once.
Can't wait to see what comes off of this beast. Maybe a tank in a single print next time. 😁 Thanks for sharing!
A full size bright red Sherman tank would look awesome 😎
I love that a Benchy was the first print. ❤
congrats , a pellet extruder its a option for the printer or not?
I don't see why wouldn't it
This is amazing! I'm building one now... :) Watching your videos has made me feel confident enough to take the leap from working with kit printers to making my own. I already have Experience in Fusion 360, so I think I could actually pull of the drawings. Can't wait to see the schematics put up!!!
That's awesome! I had a very similar solution for my first big printer's print head cable management, guess I'm on the right track!
4:18 - I am wondering if a 10 or 16 mm pex with the swivel mounts, where the hose goes through the bearings would work? 🤔🤓 Really cool made printer - cannot wait to see some projects with this - great work 💪👌
Awesome result. Congrats on finishing this giant printer. Looking forward to seeing the big prints it can make
easily one of the most ambitious projects I've ever seen on youtube ! congrats
You are so dang competent!
And again with another fantastic video
Please, please put klipper on this and tune the resonance compensation. It will make the print results at high speed so much better!
What is the difference between the green and white belt and the standard white belt? Thanks.
Instead of drag chain you can do a tower off the back corner that holds the cable up above the print head. It’s how some cnc plasma cutters work
Awesome made Ivan!!
WOW! That's amazing! I wonder if I can talk my cousin into building one... LOL. Totally awesome! 😎
I can't wait to see the benchy Ivan I've been refreshing your page almost daily hoping for it. I hope it's coming soon...
when u print this much material would not a cpap compressor fan be a better choise for partcooling? :)
Is the bed`s covered by glass? How could you achieve to stick the material on it?
@ivan is there a BOM list for sale? and the stl / step files for the parts? Love to build this one...
I had no idea you could straighten PTFE like that!! That's amazing!
Now you just have to make an Ivan sized Benchy, seal it with Totalboat resin & then slap a little outboard motor on it & ride around in a pond in your Benchy!
you can run the drag chain on it's side. Good for XY movement
How do you make printed parts hold screws torque? My prints get deformed or give in to the screws pressure
doesnt the 2 50W heater exceed the current limit for the Toolboard?
The Toolboard supports 5A at 24V, which is 120W - So it's fine if he's using 24V.
This is going to be sweet! Way cool printer Mr Ivan..
Outstanding. Thank you for sharing.