(Update) One Year Later - Flexible Solar Panel Installation on RV
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Follow Up to my 2019 Flexible Solar Panel Mounting Video. I tested my flexible solar panel mounting technique (with insullated backing) for a full year with three SunPower Flexible Solar Panels. See what happens when I try to remove one of the panels.
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TIPS NOT MENTIONED IN THE VIDEO
I received a great tip from a viewer after I had already filmed this video. He suggested using a small grinder to create a notches on either side of the threaded end of the carriage bolt. That would give you a way to grab the bolt with a wrench while loosening the wingnut.
I also though you could put a cut in the top center of the threaded bolt large enough for a flathead screw driver to hold the bolt steady as you loosened it.
HOW WILL I MODIFY THE MOUNTING METHOD?
(1) I won't use LockTite on the threads. The lock washer works just fine.
(2) I will add a groove in the top of the bolt for a flathead screw driver to hold it while loosening the wingnut (mentioned above)
#rvwithtito #rvsolardiy #diy #rvlife #vanlife #solar #offgrid #doityourself #howto #boondocking #ideas
This video also covers these topics:
Flexible solar panel air gap, Sunpower flexible solar panels, semi flexible solar panels, Flexible solar panels for rv, flexible solar panels for motorhome, Flexible solar panel for rv roof, flexible 12v solar panels, do flexible solar panels get hot, 100w flexible solar panel, problems with flexible solar panels
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Removing the panel to show us, no discolouration on roof.That shows real dedication. Fantastic work Tito 👏👏👏
You're a brave man! Taking off working equipment just to show us what going on. Well done.
I expected it to come off as advertised, but there was only one way to find out. Right? Now we know :)
You can also cut a groove (with a hacksaw or something else) at the tip of the screw, so that you can use a flat screw driver to hold it in place while you turn the nut.
Yes. That tip didn't make it in the video, but I mentioned it in the description. Thanks!
Try Elevator bolts -
Carriage bolts with a 1” flat head instead of the round head ones used in your video. The VHB tape will hold them. you can get them Stainless in 1/4” x 20 x 3/4”
Yeah. Always looking for improvements. Thanks!
Until this video, I thought I was the only person that expected a task to take five minutes that ends up becoming a long process.
Haha. Always ends up that way.
No your not alone.
My Grandpa used to call it "being four hours into a five minute project".
Hi Brian. you could used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel and cut slots on top of the threaded bolts for easy removal with a flathead screwdriver.
Yes. That's what I'm considering. Thanks.
Tito, Next time just have a long enough bolt to use two nuts that you can just jam them. Thanks for the vids.🇨🇦🇨🇦🥂
I originally planned on using two nuts (hehe) but ended up going with the wingnuts. I bet I would have still put on some loctite for added strength. We'd still be in the same position :)
Being a machinist we learned that stainless nuts and bolts seemed to seize together. We needed to put anti-seize on them. So to keep things tight we used nylock style nuts or double nuts to keep things tightened down. About to put 4 of these flexible panels on our new to us 5th wheel. Thanks for the update.
Thanks for the insight. Good luck with the install.
Mine are only attached with sealant. Been 6 years already but I'm not a full timer and the RV is often covered when stored. So many people have had failures with these flexible panels. The price for 100 watt rigid glass panels have fallen on eBay to $75 with free shipping and are only 16 lbs each. I'd probable would have gone with rigid if I had to do it over again as they can last over 20 years and have greater output.
Either way, it's good to regularly test the system to make sure everything is performing as expected. Solar technology is rapidly changing these days and it's doubtful I'd keep the same solar panels on that long. Thanks for the breakdown.
You used the wrong Loctite! The difference between red and blue threadlocker is a matter of strength and removability. Loctite threadlocker blue is designed to easily be replaceable with common tools, whereas red is a more permanent fix. You used Red, but should have used Blue.
Did the same install on my travel trailer about six weeks ago. After nearly 2000 miles and some really strong wind and rain it looks like the day I installed it. Fabulous System! Thanks!
One trick that I learned long ago was to use two nuts together and "jamb" them tightly against each other by turning them with two open end wrenches against each other.
Yes. That was my original plan before going with the wing nuts. Thanks.
Hi Brian, what a surprise. I was literally just thinking about this when I fired up TH-cam to kill a few minutes.
Glad to know the panels seem to be a good value. Aside from your loc-tite issue, it appears that your mounting system has passed with flying colors. I'm going to steal your technique for my 49 year old Airstream in a couple of weeks.
Thanks so much for the videos, you have great credibility. I hope to run into you when we finally get Lucy out of the driveway.
Manning
Glad to help you kill a few minutes. Yes. I'm pretty pleased with the setup so far. Good luck with your Airstream project.
Use blue Loctite next time it’s not as strong as red. With red sometimes you have to use a flame on it to loosen it up.
I did use the blue one 😐
@Jason Bowman I'd use Locktite 222 which is purple. Its a sealant and a weak thread locker and I have used used in marine environments to seal threads and still allow them to be undone. The green (270?) is for permanent assembly..
I have tried both techniques (Grinding flats and cutting slot) to assist in holding the carriage bolt when tightening/loosening. I have had problems with both. Mostly because the SS Carriage bolts seem to be much softer than other bolts I have used the techniques on. I always managed to get the nut off, but with about a 25% jam rate. Now I use 3 nuts and one lock washer and an unmodified carriage bolt. The bottom nut is used to hold the panel down (call it the hold down nut). Above the hold down nut I put a lock washer. The top two are jammed together near the top of the bolt. I hold the bottom of the set when tightening the hold down nut and the top one when loosening. After tightening, I un-jam the top set, remove the top nut and turn the remaining nut down on the lock washer above the hold down nut, trapping the lock washer between them. To loosen, I unjam the two nuts, and add a third nut at the top of the bolt. I move the center nut up and jam the two top nuts together and hold the top nut while loosening the hold down nut. No time wasted cutting slots or grinding and so far no problems. Time will tell how easy it will be to loosen after a few years.
Triple nut job. Thanks for sharing what you learned. Very helpful!
Will come in handy when I look at installing my solar on the RV.
Wow Brian, just to show us! You da man, You should of used Locktite purple 222 that is for light bonding. Also a little heat to the bolt usually frees the Locktite up . Oh on a final note It's not cardboard I can see somebody trying that. Yes they are out there. Corrugated plastic sheets 3/16 inch thick. Or 1/4 is what they need
Learning all kinds of things in these comments...like purple loctite :)
Have you had the panels and this set up in cold weather, snow, ice cold temps. Situations ?
Funny you ask. I just heard from someone who has used this setup in snow, hail, and heavy winds without any issues.
Loctite comes is a variety of strenghts for specific applications. Purple (222) is the weakest, Blue (242) is a bit stronger than purple. Both of these are considered "removable" Red (262) the next higher strength level, is considered permanent. For small fasteners of 1/4" or less use purple or blue. Make sure to clean the threads with isopropyl alcohol first, otherwise the Loctite may not hold. To remove, grab your honeys hair dryer and heat (high) the fastener a bit, your job will be quicker and eaiser:)
I may have overlooked the answer in the video or in the comments. So here's my question: Did you notice any improvement in terms of heat dissipation, more Amps or less heat in the RV?
I don't have any information to compare it against really. In general, the hotter the cells, the less power they output. The type/brand of panel you're using can also make a difference. Higher end modules can be more tolerant. I've also noticed with some older flex panels mounted without insulation have left heat marks on the rubber roof membrane and back of the panel. Those mounted with an insulated layer do not. So they must be running slightly cooler which resuls in a slightly higher output.
Hi Brian: Gotta know, What did you use to fasten the zip tie mounts to the roof?
Eternabond tape with a hole cutout for the zip tie.
you can take a heat gun and warm the bolt up before taken them off
I'll have to give it a try when I get home which is where my heat gun is :)
@@RVwithTito be really carefully around the plastic of any kind
Thanks for the 1 year update! I'm glad it worked well this time!
You're welcome. I'm pretty happy with it so far.
Good review Brian, I think the corrugated sign material definitely helps the panel stay cooler. Definitely a good idea doing it that way. I'm also happy to see that the solar panels are holding up pretty good after a year.
Maybe what mite work for you is the new alien tap that's being advertised on TV, says it will hold up to 17 lbs. Who knows may work for your solar panels, & Mike work for your shower too. Great job!
I've got a new mounting solution coming up soon. Gotta put some miles on it first. Stay tuned.
One thing I’m goIng to try is what are called elevator bolts - they have a 1 1/4” flat head, so I can put a VHB circle directly to the bolt itself.
Should be very similar to your method - but - using a large flat beaded bolt instead of making the flange.
Use self locking wing nuts. Although if your carriage bolt is spinning in your mounting bracket, the locking nuts might not help.
"Maybe" it's the locktite? Ha.....locking washer should be good. Love your videos Tito!
I think so. Just drove a couple hundred miles with just the lock washer. It's all good.
Great video as always :) I am just curious as why you used the flexible panel when you could have just as easily used a ridged flat panel where you have them located. I know you have a reason and I am the curious kind ;)
Light weight, low profile, invisible to on-lookers, high efficiency (despite what others say), does not render your RV roof inaccessible. Hope that satisfies your curiosity :)
@@RVwithTito Indeed it does. I had not considered most of your reply and I am now glad I ask more than ever :) I will be looking into adding them to my future system. Also thanks for the great video on delamination repair as I have just finished my delam problem using your video as my guide. I bought all my supplies through your Amazon Affiliate account... Thanks for all your most informative and trusted videos ...
I always learn something from your videos! Thank you. No loctite if you even think you might want to remove the panel. :-) Thanks for the update.
That's right. And everyone is recommending two nuts as jam nuts instead of wingnuts.
How often do you need to clean the panels during that year? Thnx for your videos
Depends on how dirty they get. I clean them whenever I need to...several times per year.
Great information Brian, are you guys full timing now I noticed you were in the desert the last couple videos, stay safe in these crazy times
Still part time but traveling more doing the snowbird thing. We've been gone for the last four months but will return to our sticks-n-bricks soon.
I have a Jackery 500 and a Paxcess 120w foldable solar panel. I just recently purchased a Maxoak Bluetti eb150 an should be coming soon. My question is can the Paxcess 120w charge the Bluetti? Maybe some how use 2 of these together? If not do you know of a foldable solar panel that would work good ? I was thinking of the Dokio 200w or 300w. The quality doesn't seem great though. Trying not to get a huge panel. Want to keep it portable
The 8mm plug on Paxcess should work fine in the Bluetti 8mm input. Bluetti also comes with an adapter with 8mm on one end and two MC4 connectors on the other. With that you can use it with any standard solar panel. I can use the Jackery solar panel with my eb150 without any problem. Good luck.
@@RVwithTito Thanks for replying
Are there any updates in terms of details to install a flex panel on my RV rubber roof? I watched the initial video but just wondering before I start my installation. Thanks! Love watching your videos!
While watching the video two ideas came to mind... the first was suggested by several people -- double nuts. The second was to drill a hole in the bolt above the nut and use a cotter pin.
Ooh yeah. I like the cotter pin idea too.
Ditch the wingnuts and use jam nuts instead. No locktite necessary.
Yup lots of mention of the jam nuts. I'll have to go back to that solution. Thanks.
Ours are doing as well. My problem is when making changes the wing nut bolt is rusty. Thanks for showing how the polycarbonate board is holding up.
We installed a SunPower system on our current home & prior home and were always happy with the product. Glad you are using this product on your RV. As always Brian, love your videos.
Thanks Jim. Glad you've had a great experience with them.
Don't use Loc-Tite Red! Use blue and you won't have as much trouble taking it off in the future.
He did use Blue.
Don't use Locktite. Use Nylocks instead. Araldite the bolts in place. The corrugated plastic is called 'CORE FLUTE'.
What a good bloke, taking off your perfectly mounted panel just for us. Thanks!
:) No problem.
Brian, once again... Your channel is excellent in many ways... but this sort of follow-up video is unique, documenting the Good and the Not-So-Good after taking a beating. I know it is hard work to come up with solutions, execute them in craftsman-like fashion, video, edit, publish, etc... thank you again for all you do... I hope your efforts are producing a sufficient income stream.
Lock tight and lock washers on wing nuts,,,slight over kill LOLOLOL. lock washers would have been perfect for wingnuts.
Maybe a washer and a nut between corrugated panel and solar panels. Something you my want to try. Good luck and thank you for the video.
Thank you for showing us how the semi flexible panels are holding up after a year. I think Rigid panels weight too much, so when we put solar on the roof it has to be flexible. Problem is how we are to install them....however your system is proving to hold up, so incredibly helpful! Cheers 🍻
Glad it helped. I spoken to several folks with lots of rigid solar and are surprised that I'm pulling in more solar than them.
Sunpower flex panels show severe sundamage before 3 years. Surface gets damaged by UV. Surface layer starts to crumble like all bad plastics do. No warranty. Rip off. Environmentally very bad. Need to replace every other year.
Just a shout-out, I love my classic robo grips. Abt 26 yrs old now.
Tito I was a Mac Tools distributor for over 20 yrs in there 123 piece bit set there is a wing nut bit check it out. Much easier. The lock nut would of Been enough.
FYI #1 lock washers don't work. In fact they anti-work and come loose quicker than a plain nut. Feel free to skip them forever more. FYI #2 Blue loctite is removable / reusable, the red you used is intended for permanent use. FYI #3 you can use nylon lined (wing)nuts in place of blue loctite.
Sunpower flex panels show severe sundamage before 3 years. Surface gets damaged by UV. Surface layer starts to crumble like all bad plastics do. No warranty.
Rip off.
Need to replace every other year.
Nice. Now Im going to have to look up your installation video, to see how you originally went about attaching these panels.
Yes. Check it out.
Is your roof a rubber material? Can’t figure out why my eternabond didn’t hold up. I made them how you did, went on a 5000 mile trip out west, checked them when I got back and they looked perfect. it has mostly sat at my house for 3 months now during the beginning of the Florida morning downpours followed by scorching hot afternoons, maybe it’s the humid steamy weather that caused it all to release? I decided to look at the panels before our trip last weekend and all of the eternabond had released. I unscrewed the panels and just lifted the plastic mounting plate right up with no effort, the eternabond came right off to roof...so glad I didn’t drive anywhere. Coachmen uses some sort of rubber outer layer on the roof, maybe that’s my problem? Anyways, if you have a newer coachmen and live in Florida, beware because this method may not make it through the summer
Apparently you know nothing about locktite. The only was to defeat it without brute force is high heat. Not hot sun, I'm talking propane torch with blue L tire and oxy acetylene torch or possibly map gas on red L tite. Each has a yield temp. It's not made for removable solar panels on a rubber roof!
I was wondering if you used the same basic materials to reinstall. I’ve seen other videos of yours with just the Eternabond, and maybe with the Sikaflex. Which overall do you like best? Another thought, is maybe a little oxidation (even with stainless steel hardware) coupled with the physical locknut had the strongest bond to strip out the carriage bolt, and maybe just the blue Locktight would have been enough! 🤓
I just used VHB tape and Eternabond to redo it.
RV with Tito DIY Hi Brian. Can you please further describe how you used just the Eternabond and VHB with adhering the Sunpower panels? I like the idea of the corrugated insulation between the panel and fiberglass roof but don’t want to limit water drainage and airflow with too much Eternabond. I’m about to install 3 110 watt Sunpowers on an LTV Unity roof and would appreciate your help.
@@markcornelius8379 Maybe check the prior video.
Good Morning. How are the panels doing. Jack
I used your mounting method but didn't do the wing nut/lock tight. I used a lock washer and double nuts, tightening one nut against another to help stop it from backing off. Not sure how it will work as I having driven the RV yet with the panels installed, but have had similar issues with lock tight in other applications. Thanks for passing on the information.
Glad it helped. That should work. I think a little dab of sealant would probably be enough to keep it in place, but not too tight.
I would use nylock nuts instead of wingnut, with nylock you dont need locktite, and if you use a junior hacksaw to cut a slot in the top of the bolt you can use a flat screwdriver to stop the bolt turning when you are undoing it, just wondering why you use the pvc cardboard, you could use a very thin aluminium (aluminum) sheet which would help with cooling
You need some way to secure whatever fastener you use so that it does not spin. or maybe the suggested slot at the top? A perfect solution would be bolts that can accept an allen wrench on the threaded end,.....but have never seen them commercially available,...only occasional custom solutions on Motorcycles.
Why choose flex panels over standard poly glass panels?
You should have used the pink loctite. The blue is too aggressive for this application
Thanks for the update. Here is a tip for removing the wing nuts. Cut a slot in the top of the carriage bolt threads with a grinder or dremel tool. Use a flat head screwdriver in the slot to keep the carriage bolt from turning. Spray penetrating lube on the threads and let soak for a couple of hours. Just in case you have to remove any of the other panels. Maybe it will keep you from having to redo the mounts.
Hey Brian, glad to see you all doing ok. 👍 Well looks like the getting the 5th wheel this spring will be shot so it is what it is. So when ever we do get we will be installing some solar. I like the idea off the flex panels and glad to see that the install idea really did great. Simple fix as all the experts have brought out. Fun to read all the comments. Hope you have a cold one while reading. Have to admit. The cotter pin idea was the best. But really the intent was how did the panels look underneath and they looked fantastic and the RV roof. Solid idea 💡 So I’m impressed with the GoPower panels. Wasn’t too sure about them but now I’m really rethinking it. Also wanted to thank you for putting the time and effort to make the Solar Guide. It is a valuable resource of information..... So helpful!!!!
The lock washer would have sufficed...
Wondering if you noted any output degradation of panels?
I buy the rope caulk that unrolls and just put a strand of it around the nut on the bolt. Easy to mold, will last a couple of years in sun. Loctite, Eternabond, Very high bond. There’s a theme there. How much bond is enough? Stop there? Overall a pretty neat system! Batteryhookup was selling unframed panels for .15 a watt. Have to glue them down. The frame is the weight. What is the frame doing on an RV? That corrugated stuff is kind of cool!
Are you talking about butyl tape? Yes. It works good.
Did you have any heat incursion into the coach from where the panels were mounted?
I would use To Nuts locked against each other with a lock washer between them. That way with a wrench on each nut it's not trying to turn the bolt when you're loosing the nuts.
Are you in Florida? I need help mounting mine.
Why is the 170-watt panel so much more expensive than the 110-watt panel? you can buy 2 110W panels (220w) for $450 or 1-170w panel for $425. shouldn't the 170w panel be around $350 or less if you compare price per watt?
What I've heard is that the 170 watt panels are subject to additional tariffs based on their wattage plus their larger dimension makes them more expensive to ship. This all translates into a higher price tag and price per watt for you and me. Hope that clears it up.
I've heard that a lot of the flexible solar panels on boats are mounted using that same type of insulating plastic backing...
Some are simply glued to the deck, and some are sewn in to the bimini. This technique is also pretty common in very hot areas like Australia.
Excellent video! Especially for me... I slavishly followed your instructions on my 4x110w install... Except for the wing nuts and Loctite!
No wingnuts or loctitie? You're way ahead of me then :)
No need for locktight just drill a small hole in each wing nut and wire them all together that way they won't spin open and also no need to evertighten
Epoxy the carriage bolts into the coroplast use a star washer instead of a locker and no thread lock. That should fix the issues I see.
Thanks for the suggestion. Epoxy. I like it.
After watching you build all that controller mess in the cabinet below, I thought you had a bigger system than 390 watts. I'm looking at adding 2X180 (360) and 2x100 Battle Borns on my 17' with no room for more. Wondering what I can expect.
I have two separate arrays on the roof for a total of roughly 650W
You might have tried to cut a slot in the bolt before reassembly.
little hit will loosen up. and no more Loctite for these in the future
but how much did the system cost? Jerry from Tucsoni
Check the links in the description for current prices on the solar panels. Every system is pretty customized. I've got some rough system costs listed here: www.rvwithtito.com/articles/solar-for-your-rv
are you aware that at least two other youtubers are broadcasting this video on their page?
I would suggest drilling a hole in the bolt and use a cotter pin
Drill your bolt ends and use cotter pins over the wing-nuts instead of LockTite; or, use hex nuts with jamb nuts which will also hold without requiring LockTite.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Useful info. I have just installed, on my Electric Golf Cart, 2-100W Flexible AllPowers solar panels, they claim the cells are from Sunpower, 23% efficiency. I was encouraged by your example. Using a Genasun 48V Charge Controller connected them to the 6x8V battery bank. Are you able to charge the battery while using the battery power?
Yes you can charge at the same time you're drawing from the battery. Also, here's what I learned about the SunPower cells from SunPower. All cells are tested at the factory. SunPower keeps the highest grade cells (up to 25% efficiency) for their own branded panels. Then they sell the other lower grade SunPower cells to manufacturers overseas at a lower price. They are still SunPower cells but less efficient. Interesting eh?
Brian, have you ever heard the term "let sleeping dogs lie"? :-D
Don't you wonder what he's been lieing on for the last year though?
@@RVwithTito happy to see you safe 👋🙂
Hope see more of your diy videos
They held up well after a year. Nice.
Yes. I was pleased and hoped they would since they are much higher quality than the other cheap ones.
I think I'd either try a nylock nut (although that may fail in the sun), or just double nuts bound against each other.
The nylock nut would also be too strong. I've tried it. Doubling the nuts would work.
@@RVwithTito I'm sure you'll come up with a better solution. I've been subscribed for a long time and you have mad skills and a great shop ;)
@@hedge8888 Thanks. I'm excited to get back in the shop after 4 months on the road.
Any drop in panel efficiency after 1 year?
Hi Brian thanks for the reply I appreciate it. Yes I thought that might be so, so I didn’t put the styrofoam on. Because the panels don’t have eyelets I can’t use your latest method so will have to stick LOL. With the Eternabond around the edges. But these panels don’t have much of an edge before the start of the solar collection part of the panels. Would you suggest I put some double sided tape under the corflute as well. I want to be able to remove the panels easily if the need arises, but still be certain of the panels not coming off whilst travelling or big winds. Also should I put the Eternabond all the way around or should I put it along the front and back and in sections along the sides. Looking forward again to hearing from you. Stay safe Mark C
I didn't put Eternabond all the way around for drainage. Using double sided tape under the anchor points is what I did.
Great idea of using corrugated plastic. What do you think of using 2 or more layers of corrugated plastic to give more insulation and air flow between roof and solar panel?
The key is to prevent any lift while driving. Additional layers also means more height that needs to be accounted for.
Oh no! Now you tell me. Put 2 Sunpower 110w panels on several months ago after watching your first video. I did use loctite but my bolts are different. They have no threads at the top so I may be able to remove them with some vise grips clamped on the top of the bolts. I will not remove them until something goes wrong of course. Glad your panels are still going strong. Mine are working great. Great videos! I have done several of your projects. Thanks
You're right. No need to create work for yourself like I did. Glad to hear you've done some of these projects. I really appreciate the feedback. Cheers!
As they say: "If it ain't broke don't fix it."
Brian: I enjoy your videos . I thought when you did the Loctite you should have used 2 nuts instead of one. Have you tried two pieces of coroplast instead of one?
I originally was going with the two nut method, but changed to the wingnut. I haven't tried the double coroplast. I will be trying the thicker clear stuff though (it's a bit more expensive).
Yep, the locktite was a little overboard for the setup. But it does prove that your hold down method works well for the solar panel. Better thing would have been two nuts jammed together with skinny wrenches (gently) to be the equivalent of the lock washer and locktite. Will use that 'revised edition' on my next solar panel install project. 👍
Always looking for improvements.
to fix the problem with the screws spinning is notch the top of the screen so you can put a screw driver on the screw and wrench on the nut to remove. Like the Idea with the board. This was what I wanted to do since I don't want to put holes in the roof either.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Nice video Tito! I'm an Ex-Loctite factory rep. A low strength threadlocker would have been a better choice to use on those wing nuts. A blue threadlocker is too strong in that particular application. I do like the idea of using coreplast to keep the PV panels off of the roof!
Yup. Too tight for sure. Thanks for the pro tips!
Lean while we go! Great Review And Thanks For Sharing My Friend!
You bet
They don’t get too hot mouthed directly to the roof (greatly decreasing efficiency)? I thought the idea was to have some air movement below the panel. No?
Sure. They get hot, but not as hot as before. These are also very high efficiency cells. But yes, the more air movement you can achieve, the better.
Thats the purpose of the white corrugated plastic board that is placed underneath the panel. To allow airflow..
Heat up the wing nut with a little torch liter
Brian, I used your mounting method for my flexible solar panels. In place of wing nuts with loctite, I used two stainless hex nuts and locked the two together using 2 wrenches. So far so good. Nuts have not had issues of becoming loose.
Thanks. You're right, that's a better solution.
Good job
Thanks Tim!
Thanks so much for your hard work and persistance, much appreciated.
My pleasure!
I use Blue Locktite all the time. Interesting that it hardened like that. I wonder if it was the heat or the stainless hardware?
Had the bolt been anchored in anything but thin aluminum, it would have come off fine I believe. So I'll cut a groove in the top for a flathead screwdriver next time.