WoW.! exactly what I've been trying to figure out, how to mount flexible panels with a gap off the airstream aluminum roof. Explained clearly without a lot of extra verbage that most you tubers throw in to try to be cute. thank you !!!
Stumbled onto your first panel installation video six months ago and used it on my 12 x 100watt flexible panels. I have a 35’ Montana fifth wheel and with the one rigid panel that came with the new rig we have just under 1500 watts up there. Reading thru the comments I gather you didn’t change from the old system because it failed, but you were just trying to improve it further. I went for flexible panels as I’m 71 and walking around up there is difficult for an older guy like me and I can crawl over the flexible if I have to, access the awning, satellite dish or a misbehaving roof vent. I have not noticed any heat difference between a panel lying flat on the roof and one on the fluted plastic, but in very gentle winds, putting my lips down by the upper edge of the fluted plastic I can feel a gentle breeze of heated air coming out the higher side of the fluted plastic, therefore I figure the theory that the panels carry away heat that would otherwise be transmitted into the rv roof stands correct. We only boondock so having a lot of solar is key with our 400ah of lithium. The thing I am most proud of is the single hole I have in my roof that handles my satellite dish and all my solar connections inside an aluminum box. We have only done about 3,000 miles so far but everything on the roof is rock solid with no issues following religiously you initial recommendations. Appreciate your videos and taking the time to share your experience even to us living down in the other side of the world in New Zealand. Again.. thanks. Rob
Thanks Rob for sharing your experiences with the heat dispersion using this setup. Love the lip test :) I'm so glad my videos were able to help you out down there in NZ.
Thanks for the video. I would like to see another video that shows the panels when you are on the highway to see if they have any movement in the wind.
I'm confused by the comments. Apparently some folks do not understand the difference between "can flex" and "rigid" or why you would wish to know the difference. This is a great setup for the application. Thank you for posting this video.
I'll be watching this over and over to do this myself on the top of my Dodge Caravan that doesn't have rails. I don't think I'll be able to install full rails because the roof is very curved, but perhaps strategically placed sections. I ordered a BougeRV 100W CiGS panel to charge an EBL 500 to keep at least my fridge/freezer running when I'm mobile. I've also got a Bluetti 3BA & 120 W suitcase panel for when I'm stationary. Thank you for making such clear, educational videos with no gimmicks and noise.
What is most impressive is not that what you have discovered here is “good” and not even “really” good but, “really” “really” good. All kidding aside, you ALWAYS have such great instruction for me, Thank You.
Brian, you are the teacher and pioneer of anything RV for the rest of us. I really appreciate your skills, and dedication to share them. Great job on this one too>
Brilliant! I have been agonizing over how to install a set of flexibles, went from looking at coroplast spacers to twinwall polycarbonate, I see it can be had up to 16mm in depth but I think I'm going for 10mm. The plan was to install at a slight angle (higher toward centerline of RV) with the channels running uphill, so hopefully warm air will rise from convection and draw air through the core. But, how to do it, how to do it... And then one of my friends pointed me to this video and I see you've solved all my problems already!! THANKS!! Nice work!
Love your no-drill install ideas! I was going to use your second method, but in test runs had noticed a tendency for the corrugated plastic sheets to collect water between themselves and the roof of my skoolie. I was worried about that and have been trying to think of a way to elevate the assemblies a little way off the Tropicool silicone coating I have on my roof. Your t-track idea is brilliant! I'll use t-tracks to elevate! I may end up adding some aluminum stringers between the t-tracks to support the flexible panels. Bottom line, thanks for dreaming up interesting ideas and sharing them on TH-cam!
Brain, thanks again for all your great videos and Solar starter doc (great doc that helped me get the design started). I was new to solar just a few months ago and now I have a 700 Watt system on my RV now. I used this mounting method for my 4 Renogy 175 Watt panels. For others looking at these panels, here are some modifications I did to this great mounting design… The grommets on the panels are too small for the ¼ T-Bolt (even though they are ¼” grommets), so I pulled them out and put in ½ inch grommets. The Renogy panels do not have much room on the sides, so putting these ½ inch grommets in was a little challenging. These panels are 59 inches long and the T-Track comes in 3’ and 4’ lengths. So I cut the 4’ into (2) 2’ segments. I left a 1 ½ inch gap between the 2’ and 3’ section for added venting and water drainage on the sides. I also have a 1 ½ inch channel across the panel in the polycarbonate panel. This forms a cross in the panel for venting. I do have the same 3” channel running most of the length of the panel and open on the backside of the RV, like your installation, just added an additional side vent gap in the T-Track. I have about 2 ½ inches more T-Track over the length of the panel to attach the cables with cable clamps (good suggestion Brian!!). The polycarbonate panel is in 3 pieces, because I put the cross channel in. The front facing edge is U shaped, 3’ long to match the side T-Track. This piece has a 3” cut out down the middle starting about 9 inches from the front edge, just like your installation. I then have 2 strips (9.5” x 21.5’) running on either side of the 3” vent down the center of the panel. I did leave the same gap between the Poly sheet and the T-Track. All the tubes in the Poly sheets are running side to side, where the air channels can take the heat away. Since I had 3 separate Poly pieces, I used more Sikaflex-715 to make sure I had good contact with the solar panel. Making sure each corner had some and then an S pattern down the panel. Since I was putting in new grommets, I added a 4th to each side of the panels. This gave me 2 contact points for each T-Track segment. I did use VHB tape the full length of the 3’ and 2’ T-Track sections and sikaflex down the outside of the rails. I also put some VHB tape on the vinyl U ends, just to secure them. I also put a little Sikaflex in the groove before assembling them. I just did not want one flying off going down the highway. Not safe. I ordered the T-Track online and went to the hardware store to get the bolts that were supposed to work. ¼ spun in the slot, so that was too small, the 5/16 would not fit, so I just used the T-Track 1 inch ¼ 20 bolts. To allow a little movement I used a ¼ x1 ¼ black neoprene washers between the T-Track and the panel, then a fender washer, lock washer and nylon locking nut. We will be leaving for a ~4 month trip in June, all around Lake Superior. I will report back any issues. Thanks for the great design Brian….
Hey Brian: I appreciate your sharing this new method for installing semi-flexible solar panels. The benefits of better air circulation and water displacement are worth the added costs. Please keep us posted on how this new method is holding up over time.
Great job and ingenuity Tito! I appreciate seeing you perfect your methods over time and sharing with us. One thing I noticed is the use of stainless steel hardware with aluminum track. My only concern is these two dissimilar metals. Corrosion develops when two dissimilar materials are combined in a corrosive electrolyte called galvanic corrosion (more so in a marine environment, but better safe than sorry). I would recommend using an insulating washer between the stainless steel hardware and aluminum to reduce or mitigate that reaction. Appreciate your channel and look forward to your next video!
Great video! Finished mine on a 4Wheel Hawk popup a couple of weeks ago. So good! I used 3M 5200 Fast Cure Marine adhesive for the adhesive. I think it's on the for the life of the camper! Thanks for the great idea. 2 Renogy 175 watt panels.
Kudos to you Tito, nice clean install. I would add (for me) that the PVC channel should have had at least a few dabs of SikaFlex to hold it in place, 'cuz you never know what a few hot/cold cycles will do or persistent high wind loads.
Having trouble properly identifying the Lexan panel. Home depot has several different thicknesses or sizes. Just starting on my installation. Wonderful info! Thanks.
I was sold on the flexible solar panel lamination with polycarbonate attached with T channel. I built and applied the installation process on top of our new Transit using 2 solar panels attached using both eternabond and silkaflex. Worked great for one 500 mile trip in cold to mild temperatures. However, the first day temperatures went above 70 degrees, I lost both panels at 70 mph. Both the eternabond tape and Silkaflex were too soft a material and detached from the aluminum T channel (even though I used acetone to ensure clean surfaces). Obviously for me, the sad hard lesson learned here is ALL SOLAR PANELS NEED MECHANICAL ANCHORING.
@@RVwithTito of all the panels you have tested do you prefer flexible or rigid and which ones have been the least problematic in your experience? Leaning towards flexible for my TT, but cost per watt is so much better with the rigid panels. Not looking for endorsements just your honest opinion based on personal use. Appreciate your time and dedication to the community :)
I thought I'd share some unique tips: I was also planning to use the same kind of acrylic sheet for air cooling, and picked up a small tub of MG thermal grease to help the heat transfer into the air inside the acrylic sheet for better convective cooling. Also I learned that these flexible panels can expand and contract during each days heating and cooling cycles, which could fatigue and crack the cells over time if using rigid mount points... so a mounting method with some flex seemed important - I'm planing to drill oversize bolt holes and use rubber washers at the mount bolts, and perhaps some ultra flexible silicone to seal the edges.
Tito. Love all the thought that went into your video. A few thoughts for RV'ers with vans. The roof of a van is about 4 feet wide and is convex. Most 100W flexible panels are 2' x4'. Since there is not a 4' flat surface from edge to edge, the T-track idea won't work. Same issue with the long end of the panels from back-to front rather than edge to edge - if you try to mount 2. Also, I bought Renology 100 W flex panels and the grommets are too small to accept a 1/4" bolt. On the van the only option I can see is to have Box Panels with brackets and bend them so they are flat on the roof, or use the bend-ability of the flexible panels to mount them directly on the roof.
Brian, as I was shopping for and doing research for solar panels for my travel trailer, I came across your previous mounting method, and then this new mounting method, which has been extremely helpful to me! This will be my first install on solar panels, so I am certainly just learning. Your ingenuity has inspired me to attempt this same install for my flexible panels. Again, super helpful video and list of materials with links on where to find. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for all your great ideas! I have two 160 watt flexible panels and am nervous to put together my solar system as I really don't know how to use fuses and what size wire, etc, but your videos offer a significant amount of ideas for me when it comes to the panels. I remember seeing your window awning solar panel idea and wonder how that worked out in the long run. I'll have to dig through your videos to see if I can find an update. Thanks for your commitment to the community!
Aerodynamic lift is due to the air having to move up, over the surface. If you have a gap beneath the panel, that will actually speed up the air underneath. The air passing below the panel speeds up more, creating a higher negative lift. By sealing off air underneath, you are adding lift. I didn't follow why you used flexible panels, but sandwiched them to add rigidity. Renogy sells framed rigid panels and no-drill roof mounts (SKU: RNG-MTS-CB). This will allow air under and over the panel. I'm adding some screw through the roof brackets also. They recommend using rubber well nuts (compression nuts) through the roof for strength. This seals the roof holes and cushions the forces to avoid the problems of screws in thin panels. Santfevavs mentioned having a video of the panels at highway speeds. You may see the center of the panel bow up due to lift, then after air passes under, it will come back down. This could slide your t-tracks inwards, working a little at a time. Adhesives are strong in lifting, but are poor with sliding (shear) or peeling.
THANKS! Great ideas and hacks to allow for air flow. I like the smaller sizes on flex panels as I can fit more onto my Van roof. Concern is that others are saying that they degrade much quicker and need replacing. How long have you been using them?
This looks great. I saw this video about 6 weeks ago and I am just ordering 3 Renogy 175 watt flexible panels so I came back here to review it again. One comment. Renogy includes this warning in their installation recommendations: Modules must be mounted using silicone structural adhesive on the backside of the panel, grommets are only to be used for non-mobile applications." So I think I might add a strip of metal down each side of the panels after I put the bolts through the grommets but before I put on the washer, lockwasher and nut to pinch the full length of the panel between the metal strip and the T-track.
Just finished my first trip to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons with dollar mounted using this method. FLAWLESS. Thanks for the great videos and ideas. I had to mount one panel perpendicular to the front so I used "z" flashing on front of the rail held down by eternabond tape as a wind buffer.
I gotta tell ya. This is so good, I'm using this exact method to upgrade the solar panel setup on my camper. Ordered all the materials just yesterday, can't wait to get going on it! Currently there's a 10+ year old 55w panel on my roof which is barely sufficient especially in winter. Ordered 2x 130w flexy panels, the corrugated plastic, the T Track, adhesive etc. One of my main things was to cut the weight mounted on the roof which is why I avoided 'proper' solid panels. Looking for a way to mount them, your video really inspired me, so a big big thanks from me!!
Thanks for sharing! As it is two years later, can you comment on how the panels are doing on function? Did your installation help maintain the panel’s efficiency? I’m about to install some and wanted to determine if it was worth the 100$ dollars in materials. Thanks!
Starting my 4 panel installation in the next few days! I am using coroplast (plastic sign board) instead of the Lexan because of availability and price.
My cab-over camper was made in 1997 and has a membrane roof. The roof portion over the sleeping area has 1/8" plywood under the membrane and 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" boards for a ceiling on 20" centers (go figure); do not walk on this roof as you will fall through and the escape hatch is in the middle of it. I previously installed two solar panels, one on each side of the escape hatch. After 2 years the roof sagged horribly and the winter moisture/condensation inside rotted out the 1/8" plywood roof and the ceiling. A quote to rebuild/replace was $2,200 which is more than the camper is worth. I removed the ceiling, reinforced the two support boards with 1-1/2"x1/8" angle aluminum under them which caused a bump in a flat ceiling but it was the best solution for MY camper. This is giving me the opportunity to install lighting like I want: lights on each side so I can sleep either way. I also am improving the lousy fiberglass insulation while I am at it. I will install cabinets both sides for books, etc. I had a Morningstar controller and 2x100watt panels and the controller could charge 2 batteries at once; it was not very efficient. Therefore I am installing at least 400 watts of Renology and a MPPT controller to suck all the electrons out of the panels even in low light conditions. The glass panels will be mounted to 1-1'2" galvanized Superstrut mounted to the outside walls to keep the weight off the roof. During the day there will be enough amperage to charge the cabin battery and to operate the refrigerator to keep my steaks fresh and my beer cold. My truck has a 100 amp alternator off a diesel on a 460 gas engine for low rpm operation (4x4) and I have a second battery mounted on the frame which will also power the cabin. There are switches so that the cabin power can be from the cabin battery or the 2nd truck battery. The refrigerator will be run from the truck engine while underway and the 2nd battery and solar will power the refrigerator when the truck stops. I mention all this to give people ideas for their own rigs. The best local sealer so far is the lifetime Black Jack eleastomeric coating, which is now named APOC Eleasro-Kool to be politically correct by eliminating names of, well you get the idea. I used that stuff 3 years ago on a roof exposed to the high Nevada desert and it has held up remarkably well. I considered the flexible panels but decided to go with glass as the Renology ones have held up for 10 years in the northern Nevada desert sunlight and heat.
You're right, this looks improved. Funny thing, after i saw the first video, my mind went to that square channel with holes in it, instead of that thin metal. That would provide a better support for the screws. I do like this U channel better. I did something similar on my first trailer to build a makeshift awning from a tarp. I am a little hesitant about the frame as that is tending towards a non flexible panel, and as you said at the end, could lend towards using a frame panel. I'll let you know what I come up work, but you have given me a great head start. Once again another great DIY video.
Our goal is 600-800 watts of solar, and I loved your previous setup, but this is MUCH better and as you said an easier install. Great work as always Brian!
Super vlog, thanks soooo much. My next project is to install panels and wanted flex avoiding the bulky look of the rigid panels...you gave us (me too) the solution. 👍
Great Video, will try this with my skoolie as well. Will add self tapping screws into my inch thick hollow roof support beams. But they won’t penetrate into the inside of the buses interior ceiling. Thanks again!
What's the motivation for using the flexible style solar panels on a flat surface? I would have imagined it would be easier and more durable to use a rigid solar panel for this type of application, but I am likely missing something. Would love to better understand. :)
@@oginsights5340 I wonder what that weight difference is when you look at the cost disadvantage. He added tracks and the layer underneath. There can not be that much of a difference.
Just finished installing 6 flexible SunPower 100W modules on the roof of my travel trailer and used Ray Tray Solar and PV conduit to cover the cables and connectors. Used Titos methods though did not leave on the end caps and used GE 100% silicone to adhere the polyethelene backsheet.
Regarding the vinyl end caps: How are they fastened to the panel/corrugated sandwich? Is it just a friction fit? Would you run a bead of sika flex on the leading edge of the vinyl end cap on the front, or windward side or perhaps on the rear leeward end cap as well, just like you ran a bead of sika flex all around the t-track? I’m thinking of drilling a hole in the end cap for the hold down bolt/grommet rather than notching it out. Thanks for the video and advice!
Funny you ask. The original was just a friction fit....that is until I lost one after 20 miles of bumpy road vibration. Now they have a small piece of adhesive under the front one and it's staying put.
When I was installing solar, I was seriously considering flexible, but the delam problem made me warry. I ended up using rigid, which was cheaper, and no screw mounting bracket, bulky and expensive. The t-track might be the better bet if the eternabond can handle the upward “sail” forces. I also would be warry of plastics loosing their flexibility in the elements and cracking at the bolt points or anywhere any load/strain force might occur.
Hello RV with Tito, I really appreciate your ingenuity and thought you put into things. I have been viewing your video’s on solar and really appreciate your ideas. Maybe someday see you out there boondocking!
Great video! My only concern is that by the end of the how-to-install-flexible-solar-panels video series, a solution was reached that basically makes rigid solar panels with a frame out of the flexible panels. The only differences between this and a regular/cheap solar panel is thickness and weight.
You are correct. Those are the main differences. Also, good quality flex panels like these are more expensive. Sure, there are lots of less expensive ones, but I wouldn't trust the build quality.
Well done! That turned out awesome! I used your previous method (#2) for adding twin, 100w semi-flexible panels on my truck bed cap. It has held up to Virginia winter snow, rain, and wind very well! I like this new method a lot for being able to remove one of the panels from my rooftop to move around and charge my Solar Generator if need be. May have to try this method for my travel trailer!
Thanks for this great idea. I am working a lot with aluminum extrusion and instead of the T-tracks you could use 8020 1050 profile (1" x 0.5"), fit t-nuts into the profile and install screws from top.
I’m thinking the same thing. I’ve used 8020 on many projects for years and love the stuff! The challenge is getting it stuck to the roof to survive desert temperatures at 70mph.
Great information, I'm still going to use some screws into the roof of my camper, I've seen what happens if Water or something else causes the rubber roof to separate from the roof OSB or plywood. Trusting only the adhesive that holds that rubber on just isn't enough for me. I've seen RVs where they didn't use enough adhesive when installing the roof , my previous Camper a Gulfstream had that issue , it all bubbled up and had to be pulled up then glued back down. Putting trust in others work is hard today especially in the RV industry. With how fast they build them.
Been racking my brain on a no drill setup for months. This is the best implementation I’ve seen so far. Great job! Definitely will follow this, however my last bit of hesitation is how confident can we be with the double stick eternal bond?
I'm so cheap, (frugal), Brian!!! I'm gonna buy 5 or 6mm polypropylene board (think: last iteration) instead. Bigger channels, but less expensive per sheet. Love the middle channel am the air access- soooo doing this. I too will have Titofied flexy solar panels!!! Absolutely LOVE IT!!!
Really like your ideas. This would be my install choice if I had a flat roof. My trailer is a teardrop. I do plan to see if I can incorporate some sort of air gap per your recommendations. This gave me something to really think about.
Brian, nice update! Gave me some great ideas for improvement. As I’ve mentioned to you before, I’ve lost a panel due to high crosswinds and have been brainstorming on better security from the crosswind especially the two front panels. My solution was to add another metal strip along the long sides and secure it with the Eternabond tape. Haven’t gotten started yet, and your improvement has me considering a redo of all the panels. I like what you’ve done. I’ll keep you posted on the progress. I’m back in WA for the month of FEB and off to GA in March. No time to waste! Great video!!!
Thanks. Yeah give this one a try but leave some space from the edge. You could also add a couple more holes on the edge if necessary. Just be sure not to drill through anything important. Good luck!
Great ideas. Several comments on up lift and the panels coming off the roof sometimes.. after reading all these comments ( mostly good). Any final revision s or suggestions to amend tve original video. Thanks
Nice and clean install. Can you do an update on the Sunpower solar panels as far as output goes. Over time , how much degrade is there from the Best Flex solar panel on the market ? Any videos on this would be very helpful to YT world. Thanks for your time, peacefrom510
Thanks for your videos, I learn a lot from them. I'm not clear though why you use the flexible solar panels. They seem to be more expensive, don't last a long and have shorter warranty periods than rigid panels.
I have that plastic too, left over sheets from work, and will be doing the same on the roof with 3 x 100w new panels to add to the current one I've got. I've got skylights close to the panels so I'm think of raising them up by about 4 inches by having cut pieces under the main top sheet- maybe three going across the width of the the panel about 3 inches wide and stuck with sika 521 uv. I'm in Scotland much of the year so it'll help max out any direct sunlight . I'm also putting 2 x 100w panels on the front of the van sloping roof which will mean I can face the van into the sun and get the most out of them as that angle is about 45 degrees. Thanks for the great videos!
great solution! What is the total weight of this solution compared to regular rigid panels? Corrected for the higher efficiency-per m2 for rigid solar?
Wow, very nice. I really appreciate these videos because i have not been able to figure out a simple way to add a panel to my RV roof. My roof is small and curved fiberglass and it just does not lend itself easily to a solar panel installation. But this might work, and you have an air gap which i demand in my setup. Maybe i can finally not depend on solar suitcases as much.
That is probably the best solar install for flex panels that I have seen! My motorhome has a fiberglass roof and I really don't want to put any holes in it mounting rigid solar panels that I already have. I might give those T-Tracks a try and mount 2 with some 3M VHB tape and see how it works as it certainly gives a much larger adhesive area for the VHB tape. See any problems with doing this?
Thanks so much for your friendly, informative, and clear presentations, which make learning more enjoyable and fruitful! I found at Home Depot the Lexan Multiwall Polycarbonate Sheet in a 5-Pack of 24"X24" squares for $50.47, which is perfect for my needs and almost half the cost of the 48"X96" size that is way too much for my two, 24" X 42" panels.
Very sanitary look it beats all the eternabond tape. Nylock nut may have been a cleaner look but all in all nice 👍 Great idea with the fluted plastic panel for cooling and support that’s definitely thinking out of the box. Never a wasted moment watching your brilliant videos. Thank you for all the great ideas. 🍺🍺👍🇺🇸
I tried the Nylock nuts, but they were just too tight for this track and caused the bolt to break loose inside the aluminum track. Perhaps if I used T-Lock bolts it would have been fine, but I couldn't find the T-lock bolts in stainless steel.
I have all the materials. Went up on there roof to check it out and with the roof trusses going across there will be up to a 1" gap on ones end. Will need some creative spacing to match the change. I may have to use a hybrid of your 2019 video for the front edge. I'll keep you informed. Thank you for the great video and ideas.
Tito, if that trellis strip fits nice and tight, why not put it on all four sides, add VHB tape on the bottom side of the strips, and some Sikaflex to seal the external edges of the VHB tape? VIce using the T channel. I have to mount a large Renogy 175w panel. It only has 6 grommet holes. I think that is too few attachment points allowing the panel to flex up and down potentially causing stress cracks to the traces. I've used that vinyl lattice stuff for years. Seems to hold up to the sun fairly well but eventually it does get more brittle. It also does expand and contract with the seasons so might put stress on the VHB bond. I guess drainage could be an issue as well requiring some weep holes. Just wondering.
Great job I would add insulating washers between the stainless steel and the aluminum so there's no reaction between the two metals I have seen on cars when the insulator was removed and not reinstalled on the bumper the aluminum would deteriorate
Brian, is there any lift to it. Could there be a possibility of it lifting the roofing material causing a bubble. I love this idea. Also how permanent is it. Say for some reason a panel gets damaged is there a way to replace it.
I have a 15’ teardrop. Hoping enough flat surface for the 4’ t-track and 110 watt sunpower flex panel. Purchased all the supplies. Waiting for a little better weather to take the cover off my trailer.
Thanks Brian , I would like to see how the rails would work on rigid panels , they could replace the screwing to the rook that I hate so much . Love feedback on any stories on this system with rigid panels
Amazing video Tito it's just what I have been looking for to install my flexible panels I have them now flush to the roof this is an excellent idea and it gives it minimal windflow for a cooler panel. I have noticed you use sunpower flexible panels what is you experience and life expectancy from them I have Renogy panels now and had a bad experience from them plus they are more expensive.
TOP JOB im building a small camper but ill be using rigid panels as they have better air flow and last longer. The flexible ones degrade quicker than rigid due to heat build up.😊👍🏻
I like this, will definitely incorporate it into my build. Stainless steel and aluminum have an adverse effect on one another, maybe a coated or galvanized bolt?
Super cool, Brian! Wondering if you have noticed or had any 'lifting' on the front edge of the panels? I plan to follow your steps on a 4' long panel that will mount close to the leading edge of my camper top. Should I be concerned? Maybe add a defector? Thanks for sharing your projects!
Yes. I'd be concerned mounting too close to the front edge or side. You'll have to look closely at the shape of your roof and imagine what it would look like in a wind tunnel. Proceed with caution. Good luck :)
i am planning to mount my panels this summer. Last summer after watching your video i purchASED THE WHITE pvc mounting pieces. I started with Renogy 175. then got into the LENSUN which I really like. as i have no holes in the roof i am thinking I would try to make on e large panel (Sprinter 170m xt) I am using Bluetti PowerBanks (4) EB240 AC200 AC50s AC30 q1uick and easy and allows me to keep them when I trade in for a new van in a few years
I want to understand, is the polycarbonate sheet there to help with cooling, or to block airflow going under the panel and ripping it off? Or both? Also, are there alternatives to the double sided Eternabond tape? Thanks for sharing this creative solution!
So it is a sad day. I used this method BUT used VHB. I do not recommend. After several days of severe heat and a couple of thunderstorms with winds I lost my panel. Gone! So going to use the eternabond, but I still love this application. I’ll let you know how it goes Brian.
I love your install!! But I am a little worried about a possible fire. Would buying some Fire Retardant material to place in between the panel and the corrugated panel be a good idea? I'll have to make some adjustments for my install, I'll be buying Renogy flexible 175w panels. They are really long!! I think 59 inches??
This is a nice video with some great ideas. I have a travel trailer and some solar panels and my first thought was to use some of that eternabond style tape to secure them. Seeing this though, I sort of wonder if it's better than just drilling/screwing the panels (or mounts) to the roof? Here's why: -It'll be practically impossible to remove the tape, so this is basically permanent. If you wanted to get different panels or sell the trailer, it'd be a nightmare to remove all this. -I still think it's much safer to screw/secure panels to the roof. It may seem impossible for the panels to come loose (see my statement above), but I have seen tape like that fail during both very hot and very cold weather. Once of those flying off could literally kill someone. -It's actually more work to do all this, and clearly more expensive than traditional mounts. -You can remove traditional mounts and fill the gaps with sikaflex or similar sealant.
WoW.! exactly what I've been trying to figure out, how to mount flexible panels with a gap off the airstream aluminum roof. Explained clearly without a lot of extra verbage that most you tubers throw in to try to be cute. thank you !!!
Stumbled onto your first panel installation video six months ago and used it on my 12 x 100watt flexible panels. I have a 35’ Montana fifth wheel and with the one rigid panel that came with the new rig we have just under 1500 watts up there. Reading thru the comments I gather you didn’t change from the old system because it failed, but you were just trying to improve it further. I went for flexible panels as I’m 71 and walking around up there is difficult for an older guy like me and I can crawl over the flexible if I have to, access the awning, satellite dish or a misbehaving roof vent. I have not noticed any heat difference between a panel lying flat on the roof and one on the fluted plastic, but in very gentle winds, putting my lips down by the upper edge of the fluted plastic I can feel a gentle breeze of heated air coming out the higher side of the fluted plastic, therefore I figure the theory that the panels carry away heat that would otherwise be transmitted into the rv roof stands correct. We only boondock so having a lot of solar is key with our 400ah of lithium. The thing I am most proud of is the single hole I have in my roof that handles my satellite dish and all my solar connections inside an aluminum box. We have only done about 3,000 miles so far but everything on the roof is rock solid with no issues following religiously you initial recommendations. Appreciate your videos and taking the time to share your experience even to us living down in the other side of the world in New Zealand. Again.. thanks. Rob
Thanks Rob for sharing your experiences with the heat dispersion using this setup. Love the lip test :) I'm so glad my videos were able to help you out down there in NZ.
Thanks for the video. I would like to see another video that shows the panels when you are on the highway to see if they have any movement in the wind.
Noted! I could do that in a follow up later on.
I'm confused by the comments. Apparently some folks do not understand the difference between "can flex" and "rigid" or why you would wish to know the difference. This is a great setup for the application. Thank you for posting this video.
I'll be watching this over and over to do this myself on the top of my Dodge Caravan that doesn't have rails. I don't think I'll be able to install full rails because the roof is very curved, but perhaps strategically placed sections. I ordered a BougeRV 100W CiGS panel to charge an EBL 500 to keep at least my fridge/freezer running when I'm mobile. I've also got a Bluetti 3BA & 120 W suitcase panel for when I'm stationary. Thank you for making such clear, educational videos with no gimmicks and noise.
Was already impressed with your previous mounting method - this just took it to the next level, great solution!!
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
@@RVwithTito What were the problems with your previous system that caused you to upgrade?
By far, your cleanest and most secure system with stainless steel to date. Great job sir.
Wow, thanks!
What is most impressive is not that what you have discovered here is “good” and not even “really” good but, “really” “really” good.
All kidding aside, you ALWAYS have such great instruction for me,
Thank You.
Glad you found it helpful. I'll take good-enough :)
Brian, you are the teacher and pioneer of anything RV for the rest of us. I really appreciate your skills, and dedication to share them. Great job on this one too>
Wow, thank you! Glad to share these ideas.
I like that there is no drilling into the RV roof,plus it’s clean looking setup job well done.
That looks very stealth too . My worry is theft.
Brilliant! I have been agonizing over how to install a set of flexibles, went from looking at coroplast spacers to twinwall polycarbonate, I see it can be had up to 16mm in depth but I think I'm going for 10mm. The plan was to install at a slight angle (higher toward centerline of RV) with the channels running uphill, so hopefully warm air will rise from convection and draw air through the core. But, how to do it, how to do it... And then one of my friends pointed me to this video and I see you've solved all my problems already!! THANKS!! Nice work!
Love your no-drill install ideas! I was going to use your second method, but in test runs had noticed a tendency for the corrugated plastic sheets to collect water between themselves and the roof of my skoolie. I was worried about that and have been trying to think of a way to elevate the assemblies a little way off the Tropicool silicone coating I have on my roof. Your t-track idea is brilliant! I'll use t-tracks to elevate! I may end up adding some aluminum stringers between the t-tracks to support the flexible panels.
Bottom line, thanks for dreaming up interesting ideas and sharing them on TH-cam!
Once I finished bolting down the nuts I was pretty much done...until, you know, I improve it again or redesign my RV.
Seriously, great video.
Glad it helped!
Brain, thanks again for all your great videos and Solar starter doc (great doc that helped me get the design started). I was new to solar just a few months ago and now I have a 700 Watt system on my RV now. I used this mounting method for my 4 Renogy 175 Watt panels.
For others looking at these panels, here are some modifications I did to this great mounting design…
The grommets on the panels are too small for the ¼ T-Bolt (even though they are ¼” grommets), so I pulled them out and put in ½ inch grommets. The Renogy panels do not have much room on the sides, so putting these ½ inch grommets in was a little challenging.
These panels are 59 inches long and the T-Track comes in 3’ and 4’ lengths. So I cut the 4’ into (2) 2’ segments. I left a 1 ½ inch gap between the 2’ and 3’ section for added venting and water drainage on the sides. I also have a 1 ½ inch channel across the panel in the polycarbonate panel. This forms a cross in the panel for venting. I do have the same 3” channel running most of the length of the panel and open on the backside of the RV, like your installation, just added an additional side vent gap in the T-Track. I have about 2 ½ inches more T-Track over the length of the panel to attach the cables with cable clamps (good suggestion Brian!!).
The polycarbonate panel is in 3 pieces, because I put the cross channel in. The front facing edge is U shaped, 3’ long to match the side T-Track. This piece has a 3” cut out down the middle starting about 9 inches from the front edge, just like your installation. I then have 2 strips (9.5” x 21.5’) running on either side of the 3” vent down the center of the panel. I did leave the same gap between the Poly sheet and the T-Track. All the tubes in the Poly sheets are running side to side, where the air channels can take the heat away.
Since I had 3 separate Poly pieces, I used more Sikaflex-715 to make sure I had good contact with the solar panel. Making sure each corner had some and then an S pattern down the panel.
Since I was putting in new grommets, I added a 4th to each side of the panels. This gave me 2 contact points for each T-Track segment. I did use VHB tape the full length of the 3’ and 2’ T-Track sections and sikaflex down the outside of the rails. I also put some VHB tape on the vinyl U ends, just to secure them. I also put a little Sikaflex in the groove before assembling them. I just did not want one flying off going down the highway. Not safe.
I ordered the T-Track online and went to the hardware store to get the bolts that were supposed to work. ¼ spun in the slot, so that was too small, the 5/16 would not fit, so I just used the T-Track 1 inch ¼ 20 bolts. To allow a little movement I used a ¼ x1 ¼ black neoprene washers between the T-Track and the panel, then a fender washer, lock washer and nylon locking nut.
We will be leaving for a ~4 month trip in June, all around Lake Superior. I will report back any issues.
Thanks for the great design Brian….
Hey Brian: I appreciate your sharing this new method for installing semi-flexible solar panels. The benefits of better air circulation and water displacement are worth the added costs. Please keep us posted on how this new method is holding up over time.
I will. Pretty happy with it so far. I just clocked 63A coming in from solar a few minutes ago before a cloud moved in :) Pretty pumped about that!
Great job and ingenuity Tito! I appreciate seeing you perfect your methods over time and sharing with us. One thing I noticed is the use of stainless steel hardware with aluminum track. My only concern is these two dissimilar metals. Corrosion develops when two dissimilar materials are combined in a corrosive electrolyte called galvanic corrosion (more so in a marine environment, but better safe than sorry). I would recommend using an insulating washer between the stainless steel hardware and aluminum to reduce or mitigate that reaction. Appreciate your channel and look forward to your next video!
Thanks for that. I know that's a potential issue. So far I've had a little corrosion on a washer or grommet on the panel.
Great video! Finished mine on a 4Wheel Hawk popup a couple of weeks ago. So good! I used 3M 5200 Fast Cure Marine adhesive for the adhesive. I think it's on the for the life of the camper! Thanks for the great idea. 2 Renogy 175 watt panels.
Kudos to you Tito, nice clean install. I would add (for me) that the PVC channel should have had at least a few dabs of SikaFlex to hold it in place, 'cuz you never know what a few hot/cold cycles will do or persistent high wind loads.
Thanks for the tips!
Having trouble properly identifying the Lexan panel. Home depot has several different thicknesses or sizes. Just starting on my installation. Wonderful info! Thanks.
I was sold on the flexible solar panel lamination with polycarbonate attached with T channel. I built and applied the installation process on top of our new Transit using 2 solar panels attached using both eternabond and silkaflex. Worked great for one 500 mile trip in cold to mild temperatures. However, the first day temperatures went above 70 degrees, I lost both panels at 70 mph. Both the eternabond tape and Silkaflex were too soft a material and detached from the aluminum T channel (even though I used acetone to ensure clean surfaces). Obviously for me, the sad hard lesson learned here is ALL SOLAR PANELS NEED MECHANICAL ANCHORING.
how did you install them now?
Love you ingenuity! This is by far the cleanest way to install flex panels I have seen. Thanks for sharing Brian
Thanks! I really like this setup the best too. Cheers!
@@RVwithTito of all the panels you have tested do you prefer flexible or rigid and which ones have been the least problematic in your experience? Leaning towards flexible for my TT, but cost per watt is so much better with the rigid panels. Not looking for endorsements just your honest opinion based on personal use. Appreciate your time and dedication to the community :)
I thought I'd share some unique tips: I was also planning to use the same kind of acrylic sheet for air cooling, and picked up a small tub of MG thermal grease to help the heat transfer into the air inside the acrylic sheet for better convective cooling. Also I learned that these flexible panels can expand and contract during each days heating and cooling cycles, which could fatigue and crack the cells over time if using rigid mount points... so a mounting method with some flex seemed important - I'm planing to drill oversize bolt holes and use rubber washers at the mount bolts, and perhaps some ultra flexible silicone to seal the edges.
Tito. Love all the thought that went into your video. A few thoughts for RV'ers with vans. The roof of a van is about 4 feet wide and is convex. Most 100W flexible panels are 2' x4'. Since there is not a 4' flat surface from edge to edge, the T-track idea won't work. Same issue with the long end of the panels from back-to front rather than edge to edge - if you try to mount 2. Also, I bought Renology 100 W flex panels and the grommets are too small to accept a 1/4" bolt. On the van the only option I can see is to have Box Panels with brackets and bend them so they are flat on the roof, or use the bend-ability of the flexible panels to mount them directly on the roof.
Thanks for all the van install tips.
Very helpful!!
Brian, as I was shopping for and doing research for solar panels for my travel trailer, I came across your previous mounting method, and then this new mounting method, which has been extremely helpful to me! This will be my first install on solar panels, so I am certainly just learning. Your ingenuity has inspired me to attempt this same install for my flexible panels. Again, super helpful video and list of materials with links on where to find. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for all your great ideas! I have two 160 watt flexible panels and am nervous to put together my solar system as I really don't know how to use fuses and what size wire, etc, but your videos offer a significant amount of ideas for me when it comes to the panels. I remember seeing your window awning solar panel idea and wonder how that worked out in the long run. I'll have to dig through your videos to see if I can find an update. Thanks for your commitment to the community!
great video - I am going to try this out on my boat. I did not want to drill holes for the mounting tracks on top of the cabin
Aerodynamic lift is due to the air having to move up, over the surface. If you have a gap beneath the panel, that will actually speed up the air underneath. The air passing below the panel speeds up more, creating a higher negative lift. By sealing off air underneath, you are adding lift.
I didn't follow why you used flexible panels, but sandwiched them to add rigidity. Renogy sells framed rigid panels and no-drill roof mounts (SKU: RNG-MTS-CB). This will allow air under and over the panel. I'm adding some screw through the roof brackets also. They recommend using rubber well nuts (compression nuts) through the roof for strength. This seals the roof holes and cushions the forces to avoid the problems of screws in thin panels.
Santfevavs mentioned having a video of the panels at highway speeds. You may see the center of the panel bow up due to lift, then after air passes under, it will come back down. This could slide your t-tracks inwards, working a little at a time. Adhesives are strong in lifting, but are poor with sliding (shear) or peeling.
Great info. I appreciate it.
I used the old method. Been working great for the past year! If it ever comes loose I'll upgrade to this setup!
Good plan. Glad to hear the other method continues to work well. I still have two panels mounted the 'old' way too.
I used your old method 3 years ago. It’s doing great on my trailer.
THANKS! Great ideas and hacks to allow for air flow. I like the smaller sizes on flex panels as I can fit more onto my Van roof. Concern is that others are saying that they degrade much quicker and need replacing. How long have you been using them?
This looks great. I saw this video about 6 weeks ago and I am just ordering 3 Renogy 175 watt flexible panels so I came back here to review it again. One comment. Renogy includes this warning in their installation recommendations: Modules must be mounted using silicone structural adhesive on the backside of the panel, grommets are only to be used for non-mobile applications." So I think I might add a strip of metal down each side of the panels after I put the bolts through the grommets but before I put on the washer, lockwasher and nut to pinch the full length of the panel between the metal strip and the T-track.
Should only improve the setup. Good luck!
That Ttrack would have been the perfect solution for mounting a rigid panel on top of my aluminum cargo trailer. Nice job Brian!
Thanks 👍 Yes. Lots of potential applications
Just finished my first trip to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons with dollar mounted using this method. FLAWLESS. Thanks for the great videos and ideas. I had to mount one panel perpendicular to the front so I used "z" flashing on front of the rail held down by eternabond tape as a wind buffer.
Fantastic!
I gotta tell ya. This is so good, I'm using this exact method to upgrade the solar panel setup on my camper. Ordered all the materials just yesterday, can't wait to get going on it! Currently there's a 10+ year old 55w panel on my roof which is barely sufficient especially in winter. Ordered 2x 130w flexy panels, the corrugated plastic, the T Track, adhesive etc. One of my main things was to cut the weight mounted on the roof which is why I avoided 'proper' solid panels. Looking for a way to mount them, your video really inspired me, so a big big thanks from me!!
Big big you're welcome back to ya. Good luck with the project! I've got all of my flex mounted this way now.
Thanks for sharing! As it is two years later, can you comment on how the panels are doing on function? Did your installation help maintain the panel’s efficiency? I’m about to install some and wanted to determine if it was worth the 100$ dollars in materials. Thanks!
Starting my 4 panel installation in the next few days! I am using coroplast (plastic sign board) instead of the Lexan because of availability and price.
My cab-over camper was made in 1997 and has a membrane roof. The roof portion over the sleeping area has 1/8" plywood under the membrane and 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" boards for a ceiling on 20" centers (go figure); do not walk on this roof as you will fall through and the escape hatch is in the middle of it. I previously installed two solar panels, one on each side of the escape hatch. After 2 years the roof sagged horribly and the winter moisture/condensation inside rotted out the 1/8" plywood roof and the ceiling. A quote to rebuild/replace was $2,200 which is more than the camper is worth. I removed the ceiling, reinforced the two support boards with 1-1/2"x1/8" angle aluminum under them which caused a bump in a flat ceiling but it was the best solution for MY camper. This is giving me the opportunity to install lighting like I want: lights on each side so I can sleep either way. I also am improving the lousy fiberglass insulation while I am at it. I will install cabinets both sides for books, etc. I had a Morningstar controller and 2x100watt panels and the controller could charge 2 batteries at once; it was not very efficient. Therefore I am installing at least 400 watts of Renology and a MPPT controller to suck all the electrons out of the panels even in low light conditions. The glass panels will be mounted to 1-1'2" galvanized Superstrut mounted to the outside walls to keep the weight off the roof. During the day there will be enough amperage to charge the cabin battery and to operate the refrigerator to keep my steaks fresh and my beer cold. My truck has a 100 amp alternator off a diesel on a 460 gas engine for low rpm operation (4x4) and I have a second battery mounted on the frame which will also power the cabin. There are switches so that the cabin power can be from the cabin battery or the 2nd truck battery. The refrigerator will be run from the truck engine while underway and the 2nd battery and solar will power the refrigerator when the truck stops. I mention all this to give people ideas for their own rigs. The best local sealer so far is the lifetime Black Jack eleastomeric coating, which is now named APOC Eleasro-Kool to be politically correct by eliminating names of, well you get the idea. I used that stuff 3 years ago on a roof exposed to the high Nevada desert and it has held up remarkably well. I considered the flexible panels but decided to go with glass as the Renology ones have held up for 10 years in the northern Nevada desert sunlight and heat.
i did that way .going to try it out in the next day when the glue is dry. New Zealand
You're right, this looks improved. Funny thing, after i saw the first video, my mind went to that square channel with holes in it, instead of that thin metal. That would provide a better support for the screws. I do like this U channel better. I did something similar on my first trailer to build a makeshift awning from a tarp. I am a little hesitant about the frame as that is tending towards a non flexible panel, and as you said at the end, could lend towards using a frame panel. I'll let you know what I come up work, but you have given me a great head start. Once again another great DIY video.
Great. Good luck. Circle back and let us know what you ended up doing.
We’ve been fans a long time! Always appreciate your videos for great ideas. This is awesome!
I appreciate that! Glad you like the videos.
Our goal is 600-800 watts of solar, and I loved your previous setup, but this is MUCH better and as you said an easier install. Great work as always Brian!
Awesome, thank you! Glad it helped.
Super vlog, thanks soooo much. My next project is to install panels and wanted flex avoiding the bulky look of the rigid panels...you gave us (me too) the solution. 👍
Those panels are not for everyone, but I prefer them for those reasons. Good luck with your project!
Great setup Tito, i took part of your idea to fix my solar panel on T-track profile. Used Sikaflex to glue the profiles on my small toy hauler.
Great Video, will try this with my skoolie as well. Will add self tapping screws into my inch thick hollow roof support beams. But they won’t penetrate into the inside of the buses interior ceiling. Thanks again!
What's the motivation for using the flexible style solar panels on a flat surface? I would have imagined it would be easier and more durable to use a rigid solar panel for this type of application, but I am likely missing something. Would love to better understand. :)
For me its the weight
Weight and mechanical durability. You're on a mobile platform, not a stationary building.
Easier installation, lower weight, less wind resistance, and quieter on the road.
Stealth Mode: ONNNNN
@@oginsights5340 I wonder what that weight difference is when you look at the cost disadvantage. He added tracks and the layer underneath. There can not be that much of a difference.
Just finished installing 6 flexible SunPower 100W modules on the roof of my travel trailer and used Ray Tray Solar and PV conduit to cover the cables and connectors. Used Titos methods though did not leave on the end caps and used GE 100% silicone to adhere the polyethelene backsheet.
Regarding the vinyl end caps: How are they fastened to the panel/corrugated sandwich? Is it just a friction fit? Would you run a bead of sika flex on the leading edge of the vinyl end cap on the front, or windward side or perhaps on the rear leeward end cap as well, just like you ran a bead of sika flex all around the t-track? I’m thinking of drilling a hole in the end cap for the hold down bolt/grommet rather than notching it out. Thanks for the video and advice!
Funny you ask. The original was just a friction fit....that is until I lost one after 20 miles of bumpy road vibration. Now they have a small piece of adhesive under the front one and it's staying put.
When I was installing solar, I was seriously considering flexible, but the delam problem made me warry. I ended up using rigid, which was cheaper, and no screw mounting bracket, bulky and expensive. The t-track might be the better bet if the eternabond can handle the upward “sail” forces. I also would be warry of plastics loosing their flexibility in the elements and cracking at the bolt points or anywhere any load/strain force might occur.
Excellent video. When I purchase my RV I will use your setup system. I think it's one of the best. Love your videos.. 👍👍
Well done! Definitely well thought out. It would be nice if Home Depot sold half sheets of the polycarb wall panel.
Hello RV with Tito, I really appreciate your ingenuity and thought you put into things. I have been viewing your video’s on solar and really appreciate your ideas. Maybe someday see you out there boondocking!
Just got around to viewing this. Great solution! Can't wait to see the 2022 version.
_Thanks for sharing; it gave me an idea for adding a solar panel in a strange spot of the roof._
Glad I could help
Great video! My only concern is that by the end of the how-to-install-flexible-solar-panels video series, a solution was reached that basically makes rigid solar panels with a frame out of the flexible panels. The only differences between this and a regular/cheap solar panel is thickness and weight.
You are correct. Those are the main differences. Also, good quality flex panels like these are more expensive. Sure, there are lots of less expensive ones, but I wouldn't trust the build quality.
This is so clever! I look forward to modifying my current installation with this idea.
Good luck!
Well done! That turned out awesome! I used your previous method (#2) for adding twin, 100w semi-flexible panels on my truck bed cap. It has held up to Virginia winter snow, rain, and wind very well! I like this new method a lot for being able to remove one of the panels from my rooftop to move around and charge my Solar Generator if need be. May have to try this method for my travel trailer!
Good job. Glad to hear they've held up.
Thanks for this great idea. I am working a lot with aluminum extrusion and instead of the T-tracks you could use 8020 1050 profile (1" x 0.5"), fit t-nuts into the profile and install screws from top.
Yeah. 8020 would work fine as well. Good luck!
I’m thinking the same thing. I’ve used 8020 on many projects for years and love the stuff! The challenge is getting it stuck to the roof to survive desert temperatures at 70mph.
Mornin Brian! Got my new service panel/converter all wired up yesterday.
Fantastic! Good mornin.
Great information, I'm still going to use some screws into the roof of my camper, I've seen what happens if Water or something else causes the rubber roof to separate from the roof OSB or plywood. Trusting only the adhesive that holds that rubber on just isn't enough for me. I've seen RVs where they didn't use enough adhesive when installing the roof , my previous Camper a Gulfstream had that issue , it all bubbled up and had to be pulled up then glued back down. Putting trust in others work is hard today especially in the RV industry. With how fast they build them.
Been racking my brain on a no drill setup for months. This is the best implementation I’ve seen so far. Great job!
Definitely will follow this, however my last bit of hesitation is how confident can we be with the double stick eternal bond?
I'm so cheap, (frugal), Brian!!! I'm gonna buy 5 or 6mm polypropylene board (think: last iteration) instead. Bigger channels, but less expensive per sheet. Love the middle channel am the air access- soooo doing this. I too will have Titofied flexy solar panels!!! Absolutely LOVE IT!!!
Really like your ideas. This would be my install choice if I had a flat roof. My trailer is a teardrop. I do plan to see if I can incorporate some sort of air gap per your recommendations. This gave me something to really think about.
Glad to get you're wheels spinning.
Brian, nice update! Gave me some great ideas for improvement. As I’ve mentioned to you before, I’ve lost a panel due to high crosswinds and have been brainstorming on better security from the crosswind especially the two front panels. My solution was to add another metal strip along the long sides and secure it with the Eternabond tape. Haven’t gotten started yet, and your improvement has me considering a redo of all the panels. I like what you’ve done.
I’ll keep you posted on the progress. I’m back in WA for the month of FEB and off to GA in March. No time to waste! Great video!!!
Thanks. Yeah give this one a try but leave some space from the edge. You could also add a couple more holes on the edge if necessary. Just be sure not to drill through anything important. Good luck!
Great ideas. Several comments on up lift and the panels coming off the roof sometimes.. after reading all these comments ( mostly good). Any final revision s or suggestions to amend tve original video. Thanks
Ooh, my bad. I see the list. I just had to scroll down - thank you!
Nice and clean install. Can you do an update on the Sunpower solar panels as far as output goes. Over time , how much degrade is there from the Best Flex solar panel on the market ? Any videos on this would be very helpful to YT world. Thanks for your time, peacefrom510
Thanks for the suggestion. No noticeable degredation so far though after 2 years.
@@RVwithTito nice to hear !
Thanks for your videos, I learn a lot from them. I'm not clear though why you use the flexible solar panels. They seem to be more expensive, don't last a long and have shorter warranty periods than rigid panels.
Personal preference really. I like the lightweight low profile benefits.
Hi from France ! Thank you so much for sharing all your advices. It helped us a lot for our fixation :)
Glad it was helpful!
I have that plastic too, left over sheets from work, and will be doing the same on the roof with 3 x 100w new panels to add to the current one I've got. I've got skylights close to the panels so I'm think of raising them up by about 4 inches by having cut pieces under the main top sheet- maybe three going across the width of the the panel about 3 inches wide and stuck with sika 521 uv. I'm in Scotland much of the year so it'll help max out any direct sunlight . I'm also putting 2 x 100w panels on the front of the van sloping roof which will mean I can face the van into the sun and get the most out of them as that angle is about 45 degrees. Thanks for the great videos!
great solution! What is the total weight of this solution compared to regular rigid panels? Corrected for the higher efficiency-per m2 for rigid solar?
Wow, very nice. I really appreciate these videos because i have not been able to figure out a simple way to add a panel to my RV roof. My roof is small and curved fiberglass and it just does not lend itself easily to a solar panel installation. But this might work, and you have an air gap which i demand in my setup. Maybe i can finally not depend on solar suitcases as much.
Great! Glad I could help.
That is probably the best solar install for flex panels that I have seen! My motorhome has a fiberglass roof and I really don't want to put any holes in it mounting rigid solar panels that I already have. I might give those T-Tracks a try and mount 2 with some 3M VHB tape and see how it works as it certainly gives a much larger adhesive area for the VHB tape. See any problems with doing this?
Should work. Clean the surfaces well first and you should be good to go.
Would love to see a video on the wiring aspect of this
Thanks so much for your friendly, informative, and clear presentations, which make learning more enjoyable and fruitful! I found at Home Depot the Lexan Multiwall Polycarbonate Sheet in a 5-Pack of 24"X24" squares for $50.47, which is perfect for my needs and almost half the cost of the 48"X96" size that is way too much for my two, 24" X 42" panels.
I still have a couple large sheets of it left :) Guess I'll build a green house.
@@RVwithTito It was just a suggestion for viewers who have not yet made the purchase. :)
Very sanitary look it beats all the eternabond tape. Nylock nut may have been a cleaner look but all in all nice 👍 Great idea with the fluted plastic panel for cooling and support that’s definitely thinking out of the box. Never a wasted moment watching your brilliant videos. Thank you for all the great ideas. 🍺🍺👍🇺🇸
I tried the Nylock nuts, but they were just too tight for this track and caused the bolt to break loose inside the aluminum track. Perhaps if I used T-Lock bolts it would have been fine, but I couldn't find the T-lock bolts in stainless steel.
I have all the materials. Went up on there roof to check it out and with the roof trusses going across there will be up to a 1" gap on ones end. Will need some creative spacing to match the change. I may have to use a hybrid of your 2019 video for the front edge. I'll keep you informed. Thank you for the great video and ideas.
Tito, if that trellis strip fits nice and tight, why not put it on all four sides, add VHB tape on the bottom side of the strips, and some Sikaflex to seal the external edges of the VHB tape? VIce using the T channel. I have to mount a large Renogy 175w panel. It only has 6 grommet holes. I think that is too few attachment points allowing the panel to flex up and down potentially causing stress cracks to the traces. I've used that vinyl lattice stuff for years. Seems to hold up to the sun fairly well but eventually it does get more brittle. It also does expand and contract with the seasons so might put stress on the VHB bond. I guess drainage could be an issue as well requiring some weep holes. Just wondering.
Great application with attention to detail, thanks Tito!☺️
Glad it was helpful!
Great job I would add insulating washers between the stainless steel and the aluminum so there's no reaction between the two metals I have seen on cars when the insulator was removed and not reinstalled on the bumper the aluminum would deteriorate
Thanks for the tip!
Brian, is there any lift to it. Could there be a possibility of it lifting the roofing material causing a bubble. I love this idea. Also how permanent is it. Say for some reason a panel gets damaged is there a way to replace it.
I have a 15’ teardrop. Hoping enough flat surface for the 4’ t-track and 110 watt sunpower flex panel. Purchased all the supplies. Waiting for a little better weather to take the cover off my trailer.
Thank you....Best "NO" drill video.
Glad it was helpful!
Love this idea. Which way do the Flutes run so they can drain. Are they blocked by the Vinyl lattice cover at each end?? Many thanks
Thanks Brian , I would like to see how the rails would work on rigid panels , they could replace the screwing to the rook that I hate so much . Love feedback on any stories on this system with rigid panels
Perhaps at somepoint I'll give it a try.
Amazing video Tito it's just what I have been looking for to install my flexible panels I have them now flush to the roof this is an excellent idea and it gives it minimal windflow for a cooler panel. I have noticed you use sunpower flexible panels what is you experience and life expectancy from them I have Renogy panels now and had a bad experience from them plus they are more expensive.
So far I'm very pleased with the SunPower branded panels. They have performed very well in the last two years with no noticeable wear.
What about using toilet flange bolts in the track, they are brass I believe and are T shaped?
Yes those should work. They are pretty long though so you may need to trim them.
I enjoyed this more unto date information. You really do have a great way of explaining things. Thank You again from the UK.
TOP JOB im building a small camper but ill be using rigid panels as they have better air flow and last longer. The flexible ones degrade quicker than rigid due to heat build up.😊👍🏻
I like this, will definitely incorporate it into my build.
Stainless steel and aluminum have an adverse effect on one another, maybe a coated or galvanized bolt?
Super cool, Brian! Wondering if you have noticed or had any 'lifting' on the front edge of the panels? I plan to follow your steps on a 4' long panel that will mount close to the leading edge of my camper top. Should I be concerned? Maybe add a defector? Thanks for sharing your projects!
Yes. I'd be concerned mounting too close to the front edge or side. You'll have to look closely at the shape of your roof and imagine what it would look like in a wind tunnel. Proceed with caution. Good luck :)
Thank you I’m watching your second video. Don’t forget to let me know where you bought all your products from. Thanks, KY.
i am planning to mount my panels this summer. Last summer after watching your video i purchASED THE WHITE pvc mounting pieces. I started with Renogy 175. then got into the LENSUN which I really like. as i have no holes in the roof i am thinking I would try to make on e large panel (Sprinter 170m xt) I am using Bluetti PowerBanks (4) EB240 AC200 AC50s AC30 q1uick and easy and allows me to keep them when I trade in for a new van in a few years
Nice. Great to hear the Bluetti power banks are doing well for you.
I want to understand, is the polycarbonate sheet there to help with cooling, or to block airflow going under the panel and ripping it off? Or both? Also, are there alternatives to the double sided Eternabond tape?
Thanks for sharing this creative solution!
Yes. Both reasons. You can also use a high strength VHB RP62 tape.
So it is a sad day. I used this method BUT used VHB. I do not recommend. After several days of severe heat and a couple of thunderstorms with winds I lost my panel. Gone! So going to use the eternabond, but I still love this application. I’ll let you know how it goes Brian.
Love this upgrade on the 'no drill' install. Will definitely do this going forward. Thanks again for sharing your 'genius'.
Great! Glad you loved it. It's been working very well so far.
I love your install!! But I am a little worried about a possible fire. Would buying some Fire Retardant material to place in between the panel and the corrugated panel be a good idea? I'll have to make some adjustments for my install, I'll be buying Renogy flexible 175w panels. They are really long!! I think 59 inches??
I just did this on my jeep jku. Same solar panel, used vhb tape. Thanks for sharing.
This is a nice video with some great ideas. I have a travel trailer and some solar panels and my first thought was to use some of that eternabond style tape to secure them. Seeing this though, I sort of wonder if it's better than just drilling/screwing the panels (or mounts) to the roof? Here's why:
-It'll be practically impossible to remove the tape, so this is basically permanent. If you wanted to get different panels or sell the trailer, it'd be a nightmare to remove all this.
-I still think it's much safer to screw/secure panels to the roof. It may seem impossible for the panels to come loose (see my statement above), but I have seen tape like that fail during both very hot and very cold weather. Once of those flying off could literally kill someone.
-It's actually more work to do all this, and clearly more expensive than traditional mounts.
-You can remove traditional mounts and fill the gaps with sikaflex or similar sealant.
Don’t know if you included it but would you have links on the parts or at least names of the parts so I can research
brilliant! thanks for you work on this and posting. I will do my system the same way.