BEST WAY in 2021 to INSTALL FLEXIBLE SOLAR PANELS on RV - NO DRILLING
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Looking for the EASIEST and MOST SECURE way to install flexible solar panels on an RV (or trailer) WITHOUT DRILLING HOLES and also have an AIR GAP for cooling? This method is the way to go. I'll show you how to install it yourself.
BONUS FEATURE: This mounting method also includes an adjustable track system making it easy to remove or adjust the mount for different sized solar panels or additional equipment on your roof.
More DIY Projects, Articles and Resources : www.rvwithtito...
Behind-the-scenes and Travel Updates : / rvwithtito
100+ Pro RV Boondocking Tips (eBook) : www.rvwithtito...
Download my FREE RV Solar Panel Guide
www.rvwithtito...
Full List of recommended RV Solar Parts and Equipment
www.rvwithtito...
Where to Buy SUNPOWER Flexible Solar Panels
Get 10% OFF at rvwithtito.com... with RVWITHTITO code at checkout
Parts Mentioned in Video (affiliate links)
Clear Polycarbonate Wall Panel (www.homedepot....)
48” Aluminum T-Track (amzn.to/3c7YSqU)
Lattice End Cap (www.homedepot....)
¼” x 20 Stainless Hex bolts and nuts - (Lowes/Home Depot)
5/16” T-bolts (amzn.to/3sVsrlc - not stainless)
Sika Flex 715 (amzn.to/367DuOL)
Double-sided 1” Eternabond Tape (amzn.to/2MoOQGP)
T-Shirt I'm Wearing (Eat, Sleep, Fix Stuff, Repeat)
amzn.to/39yRnaB
STEP-BY-STEP PROCESS for Installing Flexible Solar Panel
(1) Cut poly carbonate sheet. Width should equal the full height of the solar panel but 3 inches narrower than the width of the solar panel
(2) Cut out middle section of the polycarbonate sheet a few inches from the top and all the way to the bottom
(3) Glue the polycarbonate sheet to the back of solar panel with Sika Flex or other adhesive
(4) Cut Vinyl lattice end-caps for front and trailing edge. Front: Notch out ends for front corner grommet bolt. Rear: Cut Rear Piece to the width of the insulated layer and notch out middle and end sections around polycarbonate gaps to allow for airflow and drainage out the rear
(5) Fit front and rear caps securely
(6) Carry Assembled Solar Panel up to the RV roof
(7) Position T-Track to align with the edges of solar panel
(8) Mark T-Track position with a sharpie
(9) Clean roof surface and T-track thoroughly with acetone (could use rubbing alcohol)
(10) Attach double-sided Eternabond tape to bottom of t-track rail (trim to track width if necessary)
(11) Attach T-track rails to roof (press and hold securely for a good bond)
(12) Seal around T-track base with SikaFlex to add strength and provide a finished look
(13) Slide bolts into the track and attach solar panel (align bolts with grommet holes in solar panel)
(14) Use double nuts to lock them down (Tip: Use two wrenches to prevent hex bolt secure in aluminum track)
#rvwithtito #rvsolar #diyrvsolar
This video also addresses these topics: flexible solar panel, flexible solar panel installation, flexible solar panel installation for rv, flexible solar panel installation for car roof, flexible solar panel installation for van, flexible solar panel mounting, rv solar panels, sunpower flexible solar panels
Disclaimer
The opinions expressed in our videos are our own or from a contributor. Before taking on any project or making a large purchase, we recommend you do your own research and consult a professional for advice. We are NOT liable for any damage to your RV or injury incurred as a result of following our tips, advice or instructions. We are not RV professionals or certified technicians. We are simply RV owners who work on our own RVs and have a desire to share what we learn with others. Be responsible and know your limits.
Affiliate Disclosure
This video may include links to merchants with affiliate programs who pay us a commission on purchases made or actions taken after clicking the link. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
So basically you converted a flexible solar panel to a rigid solar panel.
At a fraction of the weight.
Having trouble properly identifying the Lexan panel. Home depot has several different thicknesses or sizes. Just starting on my installation. Wonderful info! Thanks.
Great video, many thanks! Do you think the polycarbonate panel glued to the panel is a necessity? It seems to me, just mounting them to a solid frame an inch or two from the roof, with no backing would aid in heat distribution / reduction even more. As long as the attachment bolts to the mounting frame are rather close together. Opinion?
Not a necessity, but it made things easier to handle. You'd have to make sure you anchor the back piece to keep the polycarbonate from coming out the back. Good luck.
Agreed. Not sure it adds any benefit, and it surely insulates the panel. If anything, I’d use aluminum panels for better heat rejection. But it seems it would work without it
Your Amazon parts list doesn't mention the Sunpower brand flex panels that you used.
They're not on Amazon. Check out my discounts page at rvwithtito.com/discounts and scroll down to SunPowered Yachts. They still have some Sunpower Flex Panels. You can also get 10% off with my RVWITHTITO code at checkout.
We combined your 2019 and 2021 method. It failed, resulting in one of two panels ripping almost completely free from the roof, but it was our own fault. We screwed 6 plates (1 per grommet on 100W SunPower flexible panel) with 1/4"-20 T-Nuts under a hole in the plate. These plates are SOLID (drilled into wood roof, four screws per plate). We cut the 1/4" plastic sheeting similar to what you did. But we did not use the T-tracks, nor any adhesive, except for a strip of Gorilla tape on the leading windward edge of the panel, to reduce lift. Our failure was the attachment hardware we used...we didn't use locking washers and the regular washers we used were way too thin (result of rushing and not getting the correct washers instead of using what was on hand). Also we did not glue the panel to the 1/4" plastic sheeting (this was a mistake in hindsight). Within 120 miles of the trip out after installing these, one of the two panels ripped almost completely free. 5 out of 6 grommets/washers stretched and tore through the flexible panel. The wires also provided some support and even the 3M foam adhesive wire guides didn't rip out. I'm guessing too much wind, too much flapping/vibration caused too much stress and worked to stretch the grommets. We're removing the plastic sheeting on the other panel that survived (lost the other one). When we try again, it will be with proper washers, LOCKING WASHERS and gluing or Velcro-ing the panel to the plastic sheet. Or maybe we will just go the T-track route like you did.
The good news is the panel, while damaged, seems to still be functioning fine. Time will tell if it dies an early death or not.
Thanks for the video. I would like to see another video that shows the panels when you are on the highway to see if they have any movement in the wind.
Noted! I could do that in a follow up later on.
Stumbled onto your first panel installation video six months ago and used it on my 12 x 100watt flexible panels. I have a 35’ Montana fifth wheel and with the one rigid panel that came with the new rig we have just under 1500 watts up there. Reading thru the comments I gather you didn’t change from the old system because it failed, but you were just trying to improve it further. I went for flexible panels as I’m 71 and walking around up there is difficult for an older guy like me and I can crawl over the flexible if I have to, access the awning, satellite dish or a misbehaving roof vent. I have not noticed any heat difference between a panel lying flat on the roof and one on the fluted plastic, but in very gentle winds, putting my lips down by the upper edge of the fluted plastic I can feel a gentle breeze of heated air coming out the higher side of the fluted plastic, therefore I figure the theory that the panels carry away heat that would otherwise be transmitted into the rv roof stands correct. We only boondock so having a lot of solar is key with our 400ah of lithium. The thing I am most proud of is the single hole I have in my roof that handles my satellite dish and all my solar connections inside an aluminum box. We have only done about 3,000 miles so far but everything on the roof is rock solid with no issues following religiously you initial recommendations. Appreciate your videos and taking the time to share your experience even to us living down in the other side of the world in New Zealand. Again.. thanks. Rob
Thanks Rob for sharing your experiences with the heat dispersion using this setup. Love the lip test :) I'm so glad my videos were able to help you out down there in NZ.
Love your no-drill install ideas! I was going to use your second method, but in test runs had noticed a tendency for the corrugated plastic sheets to collect water between themselves and the roof of my skoolie. I was worried about that and have been trying to think of a way to elevate the assemblies a little way off the Tropicool silicone coating I have on my roof. Your t-track idea is brilliant! I'll use t-tracks to elevate! I may end up adding some aluminum stringers between the t-tracks to support the flexible panels.
Bottom line, thanks for dreaming up interesting ideas and sharing them on TH-cam!
What's the motivation for using the flexible style solar panels on a flat surface? I would have imagined it would be easier and more durable to use a rigid solar panel for this type of application, but I am likely missing something. Would love to better understand. :)
For me its the weight
Weight and mechanical durability. You're on a mobile platform, not a stationary building.
Easier installation, lower weight, less wind resistance, and quieter on the road.
Stealth Mode: ONNNNN
@@oginsights5340 I wonder what that weight difference is when you look at the cost disadvantage. He added tracks and the layer underneath. There can not be that much of a difference.
Which direction do the channels in the corrugated plastic run? Down the long length of the panel or across the thin width of it?
Was already impressed with your previous mounting method - this just took it to the next level, great solution!!
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
@@RVwithTito What were the problems with your previous system that caused you to upgrade?
Brian, you are the teacher and pioneer of anything RV for the rest of us. I really appreciate your skills, and dedication to share them. Great job on this one too>
Wow, thank you! Glad to share these ideas.
Kudos to you Tito, nice clean install. I would add (for me) that the PVC channel should have had at least a few dabs of SikaFlex to hold it in place, 'cuz you never know what a few hot/cold cycles will do or persistent high wind loads.
Thanks for the tips!
I was sold on the flexible solar panel lamination with polycarbonate attached with T channel. I built and applied the installation process on top of our new Transit using 2 solar panels attached using both eternabond and silkaflex. Worked great for one 500 mile trip in cold to mild temperatures. However, the first day temperatures went above 70 degrees, I lost both panels at 70 mph. Both the eternabond tape and Silkaflex were too soft a material and detached from the aluminum T channel (even though I used acetone to ensure clean surfaces). Obviously for me, the sad hard lesson learned here is ALL SOLAR PANELS NEED MECHANICAL ANCHORING.
how did you install them now?
WoW.! exactly what I've been trying to figure out, how to mount flexible panels with a gap off the airstream aluminum roof. Explained clearly without a lot of extra verbage that most you tubers throw in to try to be cute. thank you !!!
Aerodynamic lift is due to the air having to move up, over the surface. If you have a gap beneath the panel, that will actually speed up the air underneath. The air passing below the panel speeds up more, creating a higher negative lift. By sealing off air underneath, you are adding lift.
I didn't follow why you used flexible panels, but sandwiched them to add rigidity. Renogy sells framed rigid panels and no-drill roof mounts (SKU: RNG-MTS-CB). This will allow air under and over the panel. I'm adding some screw through the roof brackets also. They recommend using rubber well nuts (compression nuts) through the roof for strength. This seals the roof holes and cushions the forces to avoid the problems of screws in thin panels.
Santfevavs mentioned having a video of the panels at highway speeds. You may see the center of the panel bow up due to lift, then after air passes under, it will come back down. This could slide your t-tracks inwards, working a little at a time. Adhesives are strong in lifting, but are poor with sliding (shear) or peeling.
Great info. I appreciate it.
I like that there is no drilling into the RV roof,plus it’s clean looking setup job well done.
That looks very stealth too . My worry is theft.
Why would you use a flexible panel if you are making a rigid track system when an inflexible panel would probably have better energy output for the size
THANKS! Great ideas and hacks to allow for air flow. I like the smaller sizes on flex panels as I can fit more onto my Van roof. Concern is that others are saying that they degrade much quicker and need replacing. How long have you been using them?
So, my main question is why do this? You are basically building a hard backed style panel....Is it mostly for "wind drag" and weight reduction? If not...why go thru this amount of work and expense just to avoid drilling the hard panels into the roof and seal with the appropriate Dicor or better?
In the future would you still go with flexible panels, or just a standard solid panel and traditional mount?
Depends really. I think both have their place plus pros/cons.
@@RVwithTito, the life expectations and price of flexible panels would seem to me that rigid panels are a better value.
@@gregyohngy plus no one seems to account how much heat it adds to the roof. On my TT there is a 30-50 degree difference in ceiling temperature inside the trailer depending on whether it is under the solar panel or not
@@jerrygundrum1 wow so it’s allot hotter in the cabin when the panels are on the roof?
@@jerrygundrum1 WOW that is a ton of heat, your talking about flexible panels mounted directly to the roof? That is a consequence I had not considered.
Great job and ingenuity Tito! I appreciate seeing you perfect your methods over time and sharing with us. One thing I noticed is the use of stainless steel hardware with aluminum track. My only concern is these two dissimilar metals. Corrosion develops when two dissimilar materials are combined in a corrosive electrolyte called galvanic corrosion (more so in a marine environment, but better safe than sorry). I would recommend using an insulating washer between the stainless steel hardware and aluminum to reduce or mitigate that reaction. Appreciate your channel and look forward to your next video!
Thanks for that. I know that's a potential issue. So far I've had a little corrosion on a washer or grommet on the panel.
Nice and clean install. Can you do an update on the Sunpower solar panels as far as output goes. Over time , how much degrade is there from the Best Flex solar panel on the market ? Any videos on this would be very helpful to YT world. Thanks for your time, peacefrom510
Thanks for the suggestion. No noticeable degredation so far though after 2 years.
@@RVwithTito nice to hear !
What’s the benefit of having that air gap under the flexible panel?? I’m new so I’m honestly curious. I wanted to go flexible panels so that I could almost just glue them down on top of my fiberglass travel trailer since the roof is slightly rounded.
Thank you!
An air gap will prolong the life of the flexible panel.
Per Renogy "Turns out that there can be a potential problem with a glue down mounting. Panels absorb a lot of heat, in addition to the photons that make the electricity. That heat needs a place to go, and it usually dissipates to the surrounding air. If you’ve stuck the panel down to an insulating surface, say, the membrane roof of your RV, the solar cells can actually overheat and become damaged. So, the answer is to create a little space between the panel and the mounting surface. This can be done in a variety of ways, here are a few good options..."
Brian, as I was shopping for and doing research for solar panels for my travel trailer, I came across your previous mounting method, and then this new mounting method, which has been extremely helpful to me! This will be my first install on solar panels, so I am certainly just learning. Your ingenuity has inspired me to attempt this same install for my flexible panels. Again, super helpful video and list of materials with links on where to find. Thank you for sharing!
By far, your cleanest and most secure system with stainless steel to date. Great job sir.
Wow, thanks!
Regarding the vinyl end caps: How are they fastened to the panel/corrugated sandwich? Is it just a friction fit? Would you run a bead of sika flex on the leading edge of the vinyl end cap on the front, or windward side or perhaps on the rear leeward end cap as well, just like you ran a bead of sika flex all around the t-track? I’m thinking of drilling a hole in the end cap for the hold down bolt/grommet rather than notching it out. Thanks for the video and advice!
Funny you ask. The original was just a friction fit....that is until I lost one after 20 miles of bumpy road vibration. Now they have a small piece of adhesive under the front one and it's staying put.
Great video! Finished mine on a 4Wheel Hawk popup a couple of weeks ago. So good! I used 3M 5200 Fast Cure Marine adhesive for the adhesive. I think it's on the for the life of the camper! Thanks for the great idea. 2 Renogy 175 watt panels.
We’ve been fans a long time! Always appreciate your videos for great ideas. This is awesome!
I appreciate that! Glad you like the videos.
Amazing video Tito it's just what I have been looking for to install my flexible panels I have them now flush to the roof this is an excellent idea and it gives it minimal windflow for a cooler panel. I have noticed you use sunpower flexible panels what is you experience and life expectancy from them I have Renogy panels now and had a bad experience from them plus they are more expensive.
So far I'm very pleased with the SunPower branded panels. They have performed very well in the last two years with no noticeable wear.
It may be that the only way I could mount these panels to the roof of my pop up truck camper would be to rotate them 90* and have the long side be the leading edge. Would this work? I am having problems visualizing how things would need to be shifted around (end caps and direction of cuts in polycarbonate panels). My current 200 W rigid panel is mounted on a roof rack and aluminum rail system and with all that was already on the roof is just too heavy.
Someone else just asked the same question asking what I'd donin that situation. Here's what I said....Depending on how many grommets there are (probably only 3) I would still want something across the front edge. So I'd probably cut the bottom off of one of the lattice pieces, drill some holes through the top, use longer bolts, and bolt it down through the grommets on the panel. I might even modify a couple lattice pieces for the sides as well leaving gaps for air flow. Be careful not to mount it too close to the edges on your van. A couple folks have had issues when mounted right up to the edge. BTW if you dont care about warrantee issues then you could create a few more mounting holes on the sides of the panel if you're careful not to drill through anything important. Good luck!
Amazing!!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! This is the best!!!
You're so welcome!
I might be mistaken but it looks like the air channels in that corrugated poly sheet was completely blocked by the way you mounted it. The air gap is a great idea, but your install negated the benefits
The funny thing about heat it always rises which pulls in colder air at the low point. Even across the sun's time of day and positioning fixes it
heat
Once I finished bolting down the nuts I was pretty much done...until, you know, I improve it again or redesign my RV.
Seriously, great video.
Glad it helped!
I'm confused by the comments. Apparently some folks do not understand the difference between "can flex" and "rigid" or why you would wish to know the difference. This is a great setup for the application. Thank you for posting this video.
What length 1/4 x 20 stainless steel bolts did you use to double nut secure?
Can't remember. Probably 1.25". 3/4" was too short.
Love you ingenuity! This is by far the cleanest way to install flex panels I have seen. Thanks for sharing Brian
Thanks! I really like this setup the best too. Cheers!
@@RVwithTito of all the panels you have tested do you prefer flexible or rigid and which ones have been the least problematic in your experience? Leaning towards flexible for my TT, but cost per watt is so much better with the rigid panels. Not looking for endorsements just your honest opinion based on personal use. Appreciate your time and dedication to the community :)
Thanks for all your great ideas! I have two 160 watt flexible panels and am nervous to put together my solar system as I really don't know how to use fuses and what size wire, etc, but your videos offer a significant amount of ideas for me when it comes to the panels. I remember seeing your window awning solar panel idea and wonder how that worked out in the long run. I'll have to dig through your videos to see if I can find an update. Thanks for your commitment to the community!
Great video Tito, thank you! I've been looking for a way to install and then easily remove a solar panel like you described. My question may have already been answered, but I'm curious as to why the need for the polycarbonate? Since the T-track allows for space under the panel (hence cooling and movement of moisture), is there really a need for it? I saw the rationale in your earlier attempts in 2019 and it made sense, but I'm not sure I see it here. Before I attempt to put a panel on my RV, I want to make sure I understand all of the logic! Thanks for your insights and all of the innovation you have shared over the years. You're the best!
Preston, did you go with an install without the polycarbonate?
@@banddirector24 Instead of the expensive polycarbonate, I went with lower cost plastic-based corrugated signage panels. I've had it running going on a second summer season and all is working fine. Air & moisture seems to have been flowing fine and panel can be easily replaced should the need arise.
Thanks for sharing! As it is two years later, can you comment on how the panels are doing on function? Did your installation help maintain the panel’s efficiency? I’m about to install some and wanted to determine if it was worth the 100$ dollars in materials. Thanks!
Brian. I'm trying to understand which way the channels run in the lexan 4 x 8 sheets. It seems to me that having the "air channels" on the short axis of the PV panel would provide the best cooling rather than have the channels run the long way. Did you consider this?
Great idea. I'm going to do this when I can figure it out.
I've been looking and I can't tell how the "air channels" run in the lexan 4 x 8 sheets. This would affect how much material I need to order. Do you recall?
I think they were front to back. You'd have to rotate it if you have a slight curve to the roof
@@RVwithTito Thanks. I think you're right based on some pictures I found. I'm looking for the Z flashing. I found some .5" stuff, but no .25" stuff yet. I assume you had 1/4" offset material.
Hey Brian: I appreciate your sharing this new method for installing semi-flexible solar panels. The benefits of better air circulation and water displacement are worth the added costs. Please keep us posted on how this new method is holding up over time.
I will. Pretty happy with it so far. I just clocked 63A coming in from solar a few minutes ago before a cloud moved in :) Pretty pumped about that!
I am supervised you did not want to leave the ends of the poly carbonate open so the air could flow through. You would need a bug guard which I believe is an accessory for these panels.
Actually a good question.
If you cap both ends then your effectively trapping air inside and as it heats with not much room to dissipate, I dont see any gains to be had.
This project is on my list for spring, not sure how much heat is generated on the back side of those flexible panels so......
It was a trade off for sure. You can get air lift from the sides too. One option was to not use the track all the way down the side. Maybe use two pieces with a gap in between.
I really enjoy your video's Tito! I f you ever get to SE Arizona, let us know. You are welcome to overnight here near the entrance to the Cochise Stronghold National Monument.
Nice improvement. I think you're onto something with the strut concept. On a larger roof with fewer places to hold down the roof membrane, I worry without some screw downs points, that when traveling at highway speeds the panels may act as wings apply some upward pressure pulling up the TPO material.
I like the flex panels for the same reason you mention. I like the strut approach, I like the lexan filler material for spacer and ventilation. I just wonder if the final step would be to screw the strut material down
You could certainly do that for extra security...maybe just on the front.
Starting my 4 panel installation in the next few days! I am using coroplast (plastic sign board) instead of the Lexan because of availability and price.
Brilliant! I have been agonizing over how to install a set of flexibles, went from looking at coroplast spacers to twinwall polycarbonate, I see it can be had up to 16mm in depth but I think I'm going for 10mm. The plan was to install at a slight angle (higher toward centerline of RV) with the channels running uphill, so hopefully warm air will rise from convection and draw air through the core. But, how to do it, how to do it... And then one of my friends pointed me to this video and I see you've solved all my problems already!! THANKS!! Nice work!
Super vlog, thanks soooo much. My next project is to install panels and wanted flex avoiding the bulky look of the rigid panels...you gave us (me too) the solution. 👍
Those panels are not for everyone, but I prefer them for those reasons. Good luck with your project!
Brain, thanks again for all your great videos and Solar starter doc (great doc that helped me get the design started). I was new to solar just a few months ago and now I have a 700 Watt system on my RV now. I used this mounting method for my 4 Renogy 175 Watt panels.
For others looking at these panels, here are some modifications I did to this great mounting design…
The grommets on the panels are too small for the ¼ T-Bolt (even though they are ¼” grommets), so I pulled them out and put in ½ inch grommets. The Renogy panels do not have much room on the sides, so putting these ½ inch grommets in was a little challenging.
These panels are 59 inches long and the T-Track comes in 3’ and 4’ lengths. So I cut the 4’ into (2) 2’ segments. I left a 1 ½ inch gap between the 2’ and 3’ section for added venting and water drainage on the sides. I also have a 1 ½ inch channel across the panel in the polycarbonate panel. This forms a cross in the panel for venting. I do have the same 3” channel running most of the length of the panel and open on the backside of the RV, like your installation, just added an additional side vent gap in the T-Track. I have about 2 ½ inches more T-Track over the length of the panel to attach the cables with cable clamps (good suggestion Brian!!).
The polycarbonate panel is in 3 pieces, because I put the cross channel in. The front facing edge is U shaped, 3’ long to match the side T-Track. This piece has a 3” cut out down the middle starting about 9 inches from the front edge, just like your installation. I then have 2 strips (9.5” x 21.5’) running on either side of the 3” vent down the center of the panel. I did leave the same gap between the Poly sheet and the T-Track. All the tubes in the Poly sheets are running side to side, where the air channels can take the heat away.
Since I had 3 separate Poly pieces, I used more Sikaflex-715 to make sure I had good contact with the solar panel. Making sure each corner had some and then an S pattern down the panel.
Since I was putting in new grommets, I added a 4th to each side of the panels. This gave me 2 contact points for each T-Track segment. I did use VHB tape the full length of the 3’ and 2’ T-Track sections and sikaflex down the outside of the rails. I also put some VHB tape on the vinyl U ends, just to secure them. I also put a little Sikaflex in the groove before assembling them. I just did not want one flying off going down the highway. Not safe.
I ordered the T-Track online and went to the hardware store to get the bolts that were supposed to work. ¼ spun in the slot, so that was too small, the 5/16 would not fit, so I just used the T-Track 1 inch ¼ 20 bolts. To allow a little movement I used a ¼ x1 ¼ black neoprene washers between the T-Track and the panel, then a fender washer, lock washer and nylon locking nut.
We will be leaving for a ~4 month trip in June, all around Lake Superior. I will report back any issues.
Thanks for the great design Brian….
When I was installing solar, I was seriously considering flexible, but the delam problem made me warry. I ended up using rigid, which was cheaper, and no screw mounting bracket, bulky and expensive. The t-track might be the better bet if the eternabond can handle the upward “sail” forces. I also would be warry of plastics loosing their flexibility in the elements and cracking at the bolt points or anywhere any load/strain force might occur.
Excellent video. When I purchase my RV I will use your setup system. I think it's one of the best. Love your videos.. 👍👍
I thought I'd share some unique tips: I was also planning to use the same kind of acrylic sheet for air cooling, and picked up a small tub of MG thermal grease to help the heat transfer into the air inside the acrylic sheet for better convective cooling. Also I learned that these flexible panels can expand and contract during each days heating and cooling cycles, which could fatigue and crack the cells over time if using rigid mount points... so a mounting method with some flex seemed important - I'm planing to drill oversize bolt holes and use rubber washers at the mount bolts, and perhaps some ultra flexible silicone to seal the edges.
Just finished my first trip to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons with dollar mounted using this method. FLAWLESS. Thanks for the great videos and ideas. I had to mount one panel perpendicular to the front so I used "z" flashing on front of the rail held down by eternabond tape as a wind buffer.
Fantastic!
Greatings, Tito! Are you coming to the East or midwest? I would pay you whatever you want me to pay you to install 2 100 flex panel the same way. I started cutting and since my hand surgery I can’t use any tools. What a disaster. Any suggestions or anybody that you know that can do the same thing?
Thanks for the video! Did I read it right that these 170w panels are $450.00 ea? If so, WOW.
Yeah. They're not cheap.
Tito. Love all the thought that went into your video. A few thoughts for RV'ers with vans. The roof of a van is about 4 feet wide and is convex. Most 100W flexible panels are 2' x4'. Since there is not a 4' flat surface from edge to edge, the T-track idea won't work. Same issue with the long end of the panels from back-to front rather than edge to edge - if you try to mount 2. Also, I bought Renology 100 W flex panels and the grommets are too small to accept a 1/4" bolt. On the van the only option I can see is to have Box Panels with brackets and bend them so they are flat on the roof, or use the bend-ability of the flexible panels to mount them directly on the roof.
Thanks for all the van install tips.
Very helpful!!
What about using toilet flange bolts in the track, they are brass I believe and are T shaped?
Yes those should work. They are pretty long though so you may need to trim them.
That is probably the best solar install for flex panels that I have seen! My motorhome has a fiberglass roof and I really don't want to put any holes in it mounting rigid solar panels that I already have. I might give those T-Tracks a try and mount 2 with some 3M VHB tape and see how it works as it certainly gives a much larger adhesive area for the VHB tape. See any problems with doing this?
Should work. Clean the surfaces well first and you should be good to go.
Great ideas. Several comments on up lift and the panels coming off the roof sometimes.. after reading all these comments ( mostly good). Any final revision s or suggestions to amend tve original video. Thanks
Thanks Brian , I would like to see how the rails would work on rigid panels , they could replace the screwing to the rook that I hate so much . Love feedback on any stories on this system with rigid panels
Perhaps at somepoint I'll give it a try.
It looks like rain and dirt will build up mud on the panel with the high border profile.
That Ttrack would have been the perfect solution for mounting a rigid panel on top of my aluminum cargo trailer. Nice job Brian!
Thanks 👍 Yes. Lots of potential applications
Great video! My only concern is that by the end of the how-to-install-flexible-solar-panels video series, a solution was reached that basically makes rigid solar panels with a frame out of the flexible panels. The only differences between this and a regular/cheap solar panel is thickness and weight.
You are correct. Those are the main differences. Also, good quality flex panels like these are more expensive. Sure, there are lots of less expensive ones, but I wouldn't trust the build quality.
Hey Tito, I was wanting to do this approach with the Renogy 175watt flexible panels but the panel holes aren’t 1/4 inch they are about 3/16 which gives me issues finding t track in that size. Any suggestion on how to make this method work for me?
I have the Renogy 175 flex panels as well. I’m thinking about mount using his previous method to mount them. Let me know what you decide to do.
@@trailhiker10 can you drill these grommets?
Well thought out, concise video and excellent install - thanks for taking the time to show us.
I wonder if you actually need the polycarbonate. Anyone has experience with just using the bolted mountingsystem without the polycarbonate?
great video - I am going to try this out on my boat. I did not want to drill holes for the mounting tracks on top of the cabin
The roof starting from above the windshield has double curvature.
Should the PC plate be grooved with multiple partial saw cuts?
And the edge profiles be bent?
Altenatively i'm consideting roof boxes intercallation!
Tito, if that trellis strip fits nice and tight, why not put it on all four sides, add VHB tape on the bottom side of the strips, and some Sikaflex to seal the external edges of the VHB tape? VIce using the T channel. I have to mount a large Renogy 175w panel. It only has 6 grommet holes. I think that is too few attachment points allowing the panel to flex up and down potentially causing stress cracks to the traces. I've used that vinyl lattice stuff for years. Seems to hold up to the sun fairly well but eventually it does get more brittle. It also does expand and contract with the seasons so might put stress on the VHB bond. I guess drainage could be an issue as well requiring some weep holes. Just wondering.
Thanks for your videos, I learn a lot from them. I'm not clear though why you use the flexible solar panels. They seem to be more expensive, don't last a long and have shorter warranty periods than rigid panels.
Personal preference really. I like the lightweight low profile benefits.
Other than the weight issue, why not simply go with rigid solar panel insteadm then you don't have model the flexible solar panel into a form of rigid solar panel?
Just got 4 of the flexible panels. Out of curiosity now in 2024 have they help up? Do you still have them on your roof? Taking a lot of ideas from your videos.
So the roof on my roadtrek is bowed almost to max of the panels. I was thinking of using your method preconforming the trellis material with a heat gun and gapping the trellis material slightly to allow for expansion. Do you think it may be a viable application?
Another excellent video as usual! Great ideas and thanks for sharing!
Thanks guys!
Just got around to viewing this. Great solution! Can't wait to see the 2022 version.
How is your new design holding up?
I'll be watching this over and over to do this myself on the top of my Dodge Caravan that doesn't have rails. I don't think I'll be able to install full rails because the roof is very curved, but perhaps strategically placed sections. I ordered a BougeRV 100W CiGS panel to charge an EBL 500 to keep at least my fridge/freezer running when I'm mobile. I've also got a Bluetti 3BA & 120 W suitcase panel for when I'm stationary. Thank you for making such clear, educational videos with no gimmicks and noise.
Thank you I’m watching your second video. Don’t forget to let me know where you bought all your products from. Thanks, KY.
Any reviews on this method after a year yet?
Just this th-cam.com/video/p7N-tNQNtNM/w-d-xo.html I've got a new RV now. That solar setup went with the rig and the new owner loves it as much as I did.
Hi from France ! Thank you so much for sharing all your advices. It helped us a lot for our fixation :)
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Brian, Wow you've really stepped up your game on this. Definitely looks better and seems more secure. I really like gluing the polycarbonate material to the back of the solar panels. I used your previous method to secure my panels and that has worked well for ~ six months on the road, including winds in Kansas that were so strong they blew off the slide topper as we were driving. You mention using this for different size panels. Wouldn't the panels have to be the same width?
For this setup YES they would have to be the same width or you'd have to move the track. Some folks I've shared this mentioned positioning tracks laterally to allow for different thicknesses.
Wow, very nice. I really appreciate these videos because i have not been able to figure out a simple way to add a panel to my RV roof. My roof is small and curved fiberglass and it just does not lend itself easily to a solar panel installation. But this might work, and you have an air gap which i demand in my setup. Maybe i can finally not depend on solar suitcases as much.
Great! Glad I could help.
Don’t know if you included it but would you have links on the parts or at least names of the parts so I can research
Your videos are always so informative and inventive. I just love them and always look forward to them, even when it's something that doesn't even apply to something I can use. This solar installation is definitely something I need for my Class B. So when can i book you to do the installation? 😆 Thanks for the video. Stay safe and healthy.
Let me talk to my job scheduler and get back to you :) So glad you enjoyed this project. I appreciate your feedback very much.
Sunpower flex panels show severe sundamage before 3 years. Surface gets damaged by UV. Surface layer starts to crumble like all bad plastics do.
No.warranty.
Hi, can you answer a question for me? I have a 2005 fleetwood tioga. Whats the best way to install a couple of panels on the roof. It looks like a thin rubber liner im dealing with. Any ideas?
Did you just mix stainless with aluminium? That's called electrolysis. You are going to regret that decision!
I just bought some of these same flexible solar panels and I am having a hard time finding the right mc4 disconnect tool for the connectors. The mc4 connectors I currently have, have narrower spacing on the pins that you push into the slot to disconnect. The mc4 connectors that come with these panels require pins that are much wider. Can you recommend a disconnect tool.
As it turns out, I ordered some new mc4 connectors from Amazon and the disconnect tool that came with them actually fits the much wider connectors.
Well done! That turned out awesome! I used your previous method (#2) for adding twin, 100w semi-flexible panels on my truck bed cap. It has held up to Virginia winter snow, rain, and wind very well! I like this new method a lot for being able to remove one of the panels from my rooftop to move around and charge my Solar Generator if need be. May have to try this method for my travel trailer!
Good job. Glad to hear they've held up.
Our goal is 600-800 watts of solar, and I loved your previous setup, but this is MUCH better and as you said an easier install. Great work as always Brian!
Awesome, thank you! Glad it helped.
Hello Brian I was wondering if you know any kind of adhesive that’s a little more cost efficient that I can use to hold down the t track? The eternal bond is kind of expensive
Great ideas!! BUT, I have to address something I saw. As the Journeyman that trained me said (in a thick Polish accent): "We don't use pliers on a nut!". As he whacked my knuckles with a rasp file. Never did that again without looking around!!!
Pliers can sometimes remove a stripped nut better than a box wrench or sockets can.
Although it was probably pliers that initially caused the nut to be stripped. 😂🤣
great solution! What is the total weight of this solution compared to regular rigid panels? Corrected for the higher efficiency-per m2 for rigid solar?
This is so clever! I look forward to modifying my current installation with this idea.
Good luck!
Awesome video and awesome job! I always enjoy your videos. Do you think the durability of the flexible solar panels has improved over the past versions? I had looked at the flexible panels in the past and many reviews complained the panel just didn’t last.
Yeah. They are not all alike evey though they look very similar. I've had really good luck with these so far.
Nice Brian! I'm adding this to my 'to-do' list right after I install RecPro recliners... :)
Yes. You need the recliners first for a comfortable place to sit while contemplating solar :)
Why did you install the polycarb sheets under the PV panels? Why not just mount the panels to the track system and leave a nice 5/16 air gap underneath?
The truth about flexible solar panels is quite dissapointing, it will be easier and cheaper over all to use right ones from beginning.
Renogy says not to attach panels via grommets. They say the grommets are for non-mobile applications. Hmm...
I did my first flexible panels like you did your first... lasted about 6 months. Did my replacement flexible panels with the plastic cardboard like you did last time, so far...so good. But this third method, think I'll just use regular nonflexible panels if a 3rd time becomes necessary. Seems like less work. Thanks