Wow! Three 180 watt panels..... I'm a bit jealous, since I am making do with a single 175 watt panel. I love the step by step approach to the video - it's very helpful.
Thanks for watching, Andrew. I put 400 watts on my little 6x10 trailer because it is so inexpensive to do these days. Also, adding an additional panel is very easy.
This is so helpful! Thank you! I am redoing my rv after losing my husband in Feb to cancer. I find that I already have the solar panels stored away and I have an inverter. Maybe he already stashed some lithium batteries in his stuff too. So glad holes don't need to be drilled in roof to install the panels. That's a huge relief! Thanks again! Saving your video for when I get to that project.
Hello Kathy, we had some problems with that particular adhesive. Be sure to rough up the bottom surface of the plastic mounts and use Sikaflex 292i to stick them down.
@@gonagain excellent! Thank you for the update. I wondered about the forward winds hitting against them. I will not forget. Screenshot your comment and saving. Thanks again!
You know why you’re one of my favorite channels? Because you’re Teachers. Real ones. A truly exceptional teacher knows what their students need to learn. Thank you. ❤️
Amazing and perfect video. This answered every question I had about installing solar on my RV. I was scared to drill holes in the roof and didn't completely understand how to attach solar panels to a roof rack. This adhesive approach completely eliminates my worries. Thank you!
Just in support of double sided sticky tape: Many cargo trailers have the sheet metal skins installed with tape only, there are no mechanical fasteners whatsoever. The tape is so strong that if the skin is not lined up perfectly when installed, the skin has to be replaced with a new one because it cannot be removed without damage. Thanks for the excellent tutorial of how to do this, very clear and doable for any of us.
I didn't know that. I can't imagine it lasting very long with all the daily expansion and contraction. Although I installed some solar motion sensor lights to the fiberglass sides of my RV and they've been there for eight years - so what do I know?!
Thank you for your very thorough explanation on how a solar panel system works and how to easily wire and connect it. Until now, everything I've watched on other vlogs still left me clueless. I totally get it now. Again, thank you so much!
Very nice job, Rick! Other advantages of the branch connectors in the parallel panel setup is improved performance in partially shaded conditions and (if there's an available unused plug) the potential to add a portable panel for extra wattage. Main drawback of parallel setup, due to comparatively lower voltage, is that longer cable runs will have higher power loss -- not too big a concern for most mobile setups. And another way of bringing a cable (up to about 10/2 marine grade) into a vehicle is the junction box entry fitting designed for romex -- has a pair of threaded thin lock nuts internally and a thick captured rubber passthrough on the outside in a galvanized housing. Due to the size of the threaded nipple it would be tricky to use where the roof or wall is more than 1/4 inch thick (and it does look like Frankenstein's neckwear). But for a car, truck, or SUV it is short enough to clear the closed doors on a B pillar, eliminating the need to puncture your roof!
Wow, great information there, Robert! I hadn't given any thought to hooking up a portable panel the way you mentioned, but that's a good idea. By the way, I intend to shorten those cables you saw in the video and also give a little lesson on soldering when I do for those who have never done that.
Hey Bosco here. Hope that you are not offended by a question that will probably be a simple question. I have just installed 4. 310 watt panels on my roof of my trailer. And I need to what should I be reading at my S. controller? My 4 panels are wired in pairs of 2. In series. ( pos+ to. Neg- ) Then parallel through 2 branch connector and fuse on each POS + wire I don't know what reading I should be getting. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bosco. 😊
A great video, one of the easiest I’ve seen. I’m going to be fitting Solar to my motorhome soon here in England. Definitely going for a bond rather than screws. Thanks for the entertainment and advice.
I use a lot of that 3m double sided tape. I bought one of those 300watt hot air pencil heat guns, use it to warm tape to 150° or so before I press parts together. Then burnish with back of a large spoon (for fabric or flat material), very permanent bond.
That’s the only way to work, do a quality job, something you can step back and look at and be proud of your work. Your a top notch craftsman my friend. Your the kind of person people dream of getting to do a job for them. So few real craftsman around anymore. A long time ago 1/4 inch was close enough for a carpenter now its 1inch and beyond. Good video my friend, take care.
Just found this video and so glad I did! Helps explain more about the solar panel installation process. Also, happy to see you didn't put holes in the roof as I don't want to do that to my cargo trailer either. Thank you for sharing this with us! Now... to decide between the industrial tape and sikaflex! :). Pros and cons to each I'm sure.
A caution on measuring the current across the panel terminal leads with the multimeter. This is one of the very few configurations that you can put your multimeter across a voltage source in amps/ current mode. If you did that across a battery voltage source for example you'd smoke your meter or burn out the protective fuse if it has one. Current is normally measured in series with the load, using the shunt built-in to the meter. Because of the way a solar panel delivers current up to a maximum, it allowed measuring across the panel leads, but across almost any other voltage source would not have ended well. Good video with good explanations and camera work. Thank you.
Agreed, You gotta check this out. Another video created by Gonagain that is worth saving and reviewing. Excellent material! Thanks Rick and family for demonstrating.
Excellent video production, and like your attention to detail. As an observation, putting those panels in series while not exceeding the maximum DC input to your MPPT solar controller, will result in more current developed by the buck/boost converter in your controller at charging voltage (14.4v), and you will still be able to harvest energy at low sun angles. Shading is not that big of an issue with modern panels due to blocking diodes isolating each cell array, thus preventing partial shading from taking the entire panel down in voltage. Putting panels in parallel worked great during the era of PWM controllers as you could pulse more current. Those days have been superseded by MPPT Controllers, so higher input voltage means more amps at charging voltages.
We wire in parallel because we've had a lot of problems with shading in the past (campgrounds are full of trees!), but I'll try a series connection to see how it goes.
Thanks for a fun project! That glue stuff is strong enough to stick me to the side of the trailer at highway speeds for at least 5 yrs, I think. 😂 We'll soon replace our old panel to equal 3 of these BougeRV panels and call it good.
Once again you have given very clear instructions as well as practical advise for solar install. Only thing missing is ALWAYS connect solar charge contoller FIRST to battery and then connect solar panel incoming wires or risk blowing out the controller.
Yep, you're very right, but the batteries were already hooked up on this trailer. Which reminds me that I need to install a cut-off switch on my own rig.
I still like those solar panels brackets bolted to the frame with adhesive on the trailer. Driving through West Texas and Oklahoma is a challenge with gusty winds 40 to 60 mph even in a parking lot ( February thru May). Always check the top of the roof to see if that adhesive is still holding in windy areas so you don't have the panels fly off unexpectedly. on your trip.
Adding some straps for a "just in case" situation could be a life saver. Since this particular installation is "innovative," vehicle insurance carriers will not pay for property or personal injury damages resulting from a dislodged panel. The glue bonds can also be weakened by flexing, heat, cold, wind, and age, etc.
Nice video! I'm wanting to do this on our 22' new Camper. More details on the fuse & a power cutoff would of been nice. I have a 2000W inverter but yours is probably better. Thank you for your video.
Great video. I live in Arizona and one of the main concerns using adhesives is their tendency to dry out and and fall off, especially with adhesive tapes. I'm looking to do this on my popup camper which is already pre wired for solar.
You're always one step ahead of me. I'm thinking I'll mount one port and one starboard of the roof centerline, with tilt on each one. Using a portable panel really impressed how angle affects power, and how much the sun moves in an hour. I've used Sika products for years. Never had a problem. (Other than mispositioning something.)
Hello Jon, I have one roof panel that tilts and one that is fixed. The time when I really notice the difference is in the winter months with a low sun and it makes a HUGE difference!
Good deal but was wondering why you didn't attach the panel to the brackets with screws instead of adhesive so its even easier to take out and possibly more secure.
They are putting a lot for being mono, Amorphous silicon , Murphy glass , bifacial and poly is the best way to go for panels but either way it’ll work Good job.
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As a solar professional I really like that the panels are raised ABOVE the roof. It is not much. Looks about an inch. 3 inches would be better. Solar panels NEED air flow beneath to cool them. They are NOT efficient if they get hot in the sun. Plus, IMO, shading the RV is another huge benefit. If the panels sit directly ON the roof -- then not only do they get hot, but they transmit heat into the RV, too. So, please make sure they are raised up.
I love this... but my camper is tiny and short. If I take solar panels off some day to upgrade with better technology or any reason, how do you get these adhesives off...if that is even possible?
The volts with no load are higher and the currant at a short circuit is higher but the voltage is zero look on the panel for the loaded voltage and currant and times them and it will give the real power.
Easy diy brackets- 2" aluminum angle cut at about 2" lengths. Place 1 upside down and back to back so they make kind of a Z, like regular panel mounts. Drill 1-2 1/4" or 5/16" holes to secure them together then mounting holes. Now your panels can be mounted and removed easily for replacement or service. This idea for gluing down is very risky. It's only as good as the adhesive, the roof skin to trailer connection which isn't generally that good. I've seen panels laying in a traffic lane on the interstate, seen roofs peeled off etc. I personally would never do it...and I highly suggest you avoid it too. Cover your panels for making connections.
@@rjvizaka..dprrob1972 Use Dicor like originally used on RV roofs. There self leveling for flat horizontal surfaces or non leveling for vertical. Make your holes etc squirt some Dicor in hole and around it, put bracket in place fasten bolt. Then put Dicor over the bolt head and it will never leak.
The renogy MMPT charge controller can handle 100 volts input so all the panels can be in series giving 1/3 the power loss in the long wires coming down with no extra conectors on the roof. the higher voltage will give earlier and later charging and more in cloudy weather I get charging from 6 am till 6 pm with 2 x 40 volt panels in series for 80 volts at 5 amps turned into 25 amps at the charge controller with short thick wires to the battery. the x grid tie panels were only $ 20 each 200 watts
Good info and thank you. The only problem I have with my current set-up, which is in series, is the shadow factor, or the problem with a tree branch casting a shadow across one of the panels, or even a build-up of dirt in one corner of a panel Most campsites are located under the trees and this is causing a major problem. It's not as bad if the panels are in parallel.
Great video but, how do your lights and plugs and fridge tie into all of that? Maybe you could do a video on that to show us. Thanks for the entertainment and information!
Great video overall! I like that you checked the panels' open circuit voltage and short circuit current because those values do indicate whether a panel is healthy. But, I don't think your power calculation is quite correct since those measurements were taken at different operating conditions (open and short). To calculate power (P=IV) the current (I) and voltage (V) must be measured under the same conditions (V and I must be known simultaneously). Since you took measurements in two different conditions there are actually two different power calculations (although they both result in zero power(!). The open circuit power is zero because the current is zero (P = I*V = 0 amps * 23 volts = 0 watts). The short circuit power is zero because the voltage is zero (P = I*V = 9.54 amps * 0 volts = 0 watts - again!). You'll note that the tag on the panel also tells you what the proper voltage is associated with the maximum power (19.54V in the case of your panel). If you had a big variable resistor that could tolerate (dissipate) 180 watts you could adjust it so the voltage across it was 19.54V and then insert the meter in series and measure the current. Under ideal conditions you'd find the current should be (rearranging P=IV) I = P/V = 180 watts / 19.54 volts = 9.21 amps. In the real world it'd be something less for most panels, since their rated output is only achieved under lab conditions. (The resistor value could be calculated starting with V=IR -> R=V/I -> R= 19.54 volts / 9.21 amps = ~2 ohms) This is why MPPT solar controllers are such a big deal - they can automatically adjust the load so that power is maximized, i.e. the product of I and V at any moment gives the biggest value of P. Another thing is that the solar controllers typically have a display option to show what the voltage and current values are at any given time - if you want to check real output power just hook the controller to each panel one at a time (probably need to have the battery connected - check the manual first). Although, as I said, your checks are probably adequate to make sure the panel is working - you just can't actually get a useful power reading from those measurements.
Thank you! That's a great explanation and I appreciate the time you took to give us that information. Now I know why an MPPT controller is more efficient also.
Absolutely professional & Install very Informative , I purchased 5 185 watt solar panels, & they were used dated 2018 & have ordered from numerous sites the necessary materials , wiring ect. My Question Rick how many solar panels would I need to power my , class A Motorhome ,I operate only one roof top ac was doing reaserch on line & from watching numerous videos I would need approximately 1500 watts , Is this correct ?
I really can't answer that for sure, but it will be a lot. You're also going to need a large bank of batteries and a sizable inverter. The AC will probably use about 1200watts per hour of use (average) and you'll need to install a "soft start" on it to lower the current draw each time it kicks on.
Not really. It can be done, but it won't get you the highest efficiency. It's best to stick with the same size and manufacturer. I might use different ones if i just happened to have them already and couldn't afford matching panels. It matters how they are wired, but I'm not an expert on that.
Hi Rick. Yesterday I sent a reply regarding my concerns about charging my Solar Generators from the AC outlet in my FJ. (thank you for asking about which system I'm using, and Thank You for the Advice you have given) So far I'm using a Jackery 1000 and a Bluetti EB70. They can be charged from an AC house outlet and the folding Solar Panels as usual. My main worry is the AC outlet in my car. Somehow I believe Toyota has a built-in Converter, (from DC to AC) but I've yet to get a solid answer from them if a ' solar-converter' is needed when charging Lithium Batteries. I also have called to inquire the same question to both J & B, but no return answer as yet. Maybe I'm Over-Thinking this whole deal but I certainly wouldn't want to Burn Up those units. And yes, the FJ has the DC cigarette lighter outlet, but I have No intention of using it. I guess I'm showing how dumb I am with all this, but better to ask for help as opposed to destroying the Batteries. Forgive me for bugging you so much about all this. I explained more detail in yesterday's reply, but maybe that never came through? No Matter What, Thank you again Rick.
No bother Vincenzo. You should be able to plug either one of these units directly into that 110v circuit in your FJ without worry about the power stations being damaged. The main thing is to see how many watts are going in and if it will reach full charge. It should be fine because those automotive AC outlets are usually of low amperage.
@@gonagain Oh Thank You Again Rick for your response and for not getting crazy from all of my lengthy questions. I really appreciate your help. The only thing I can say or add about the FJ is: the power button says 120V/100 watts 'while vehicle is in motion' (while driving)and 120V/400 watts 'max output' when vehicle is parked (either engine on, or off and depending on what type of appliance is used, and with No lights on and No air conditioning on. That's All the manual states. Nothing about amperage however. That about sums it up, with an interesting aspect that there Is a built-in Inverter, a built in cooling fan, And a safety cut-off circuit if the power demand is Too High for any one setting. Rather cool, if ya ask me. So Yes, I'm a happy camper. I Promise to give you a Complete Break from my 'power problems', but you Definitely made my day. God Bless for being So smart with things I know nothing about. 🤲✌🤗 I Owe You Big Time👏👏👏👏👏
Do you have a shut off for panels before your charge controller, and a inline fuse? And do you have a circuit breaker between your charge controller and batteries?. I've watched literally a hundred videos and they mostly look like a nightmare to figure out, a schematic for a 1,000 watt system looks like they've wired for a rocket ship lol. I went with 15amp inline fuses for each two panel series and a shut off to controller, and a 100a marine style circuit breaker and that's it. I will be adding on so i can charge via gas generator for any consecutive days with poor sunlight just as a precaution, if you have done that a video would be nice. I haven't looked into it yet, i had enough on my plate just getting a diy solar lift and my panels, charge controller and batteries figured out. I didn't want to add to my confusion. Great video, easy to follow. Thanks and God bless Rick.
Hello GypsyMike! My setup is still a work in progress and i need to install a switch between my panels and controller. I have a 15amp fuse coming off each panel and have a 30amp fuse between the controller and the battery.
How much space between the actual panel and outside of the frame? Enough for self taping screws before damaging the panels? Good vid by the way. Very helpful!
Nice setup. However i'm scared of adhesive only mounted panels as i've heard of panels coming loose on the highway and killing the person in the vehicle behind. I hope yours don't come loose at all, time will tell. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.
Keep the pants, you'll need them for some other messy job later. Sikaflex is serious stuff, works great. I assume you add an inverter to provide 120VAC too. BTW, my Renogy charge controller is working correctly now, no error codes. Fixed itself...
A self healing electronic component! Happy to hear it's working properly again. There's an inverter on my daughter's trailer but I don't have one installed on mine and just use my portable power station if the need arises. I don't use too much 110v, mainly to charge my shaver or something.
It should because of the flexibility of the adhesive. Good thing our trailers are all welded! That's why we got ours, because the commercially made camp trailers kept coming apart.
Love your channel and I mean this with humor / kindly. It struck me you shouldn't be 'sparking' the solar panel amp test right on top of your propane tanks :) I love panels and put 4 x 300w panels flat on top of my 7 x 14 cargo trailer - just barely fit with maxx fan in middle. These generate about 6kwh/day in summer. I do have a bit of sway at 60mph and was wondering if these 4 panels @ 40lbs each = 160lbs might be contributing to that. Will try sway bar / weight distribution hitch and see if the sway clears up.
Trailer sway usually has to do with fore and aft loading and that is affected by axle location. I had a 26' travel trailer that didn't need a sway bar and a 19' travel trailer that I wouldn't tow around the block without one! First I would make sure that you have the proper amount of hitch weight and if that doesn't do it then go for the sway bar.
Wow - thank you for the tips. The weight is 3800lb, tongue weight is 550lb, load is evenly distributed, tires are at max pressure (dual axle) - all that is OK. I have the weight distribution / sway bar hitch on the way and will report back once I see how it does. If that doesn't do it, I'll check into the tires :)
If you have to remove a panel and replace it, I’m assuming you are going to have to screw or rivet it back in since you are not going to be able to glue it like you did the first time since the mounts are stationary and the glue would be push down to the bottom of the mount.
You could do that easily if you had to, but I would use a mold release agent on the bottom side and just force the adhesive into the crack with a putty knife. Good thought though, because stuff happens!
Love your video. Love Sikaflex products used for years in construction and yachting. What is your thoughts about a tilting panel for efficiency ? Not the building that is no problem
It is definitely beneficial to be able to tilt a panel of you are going to use your RV during the colder months when the sun is staying low. You'll get a 30-40% increase in wattage by raising the panel up.
Rick, Would love an update on this type of installation. How is it holding up? Any troubles? I just acquired panels for the top of my rig and plan to install them just like this. Thank you for the instructions.
Why don't solar companies use these same quality tapes and adhesive's? Thank you for the great videos wishing you and your family health, happiness and adventure God bless and have a beautiful day
Hello Bill, we just got them off of Amazon. I put a link to them in the video description, or you can just search for "solar panel adhesive mounting brackets"
great looking panels. perform well too! my only conscern with my application is that my aluminum roof is loose. im afraid they may flap a little at speed. maybe bc of the brand of my trailer or 20"+ centered rafters... ive got unistruts up there. thought about taking them off but i should probably keep them
@@gonagain another great vid! my roof sheeting might be secured down, im not sure. ive already installed the ceiling anyway lol. but the spacing is wide between the rafters... theres a lot of flex between them. i suppose id try and put those cleats on, or very close to, the beams. we'll see, ive already got 7- 100w panels. im probably gonna install 5-6 of them. thats a lot of panels! thanks again, and keep it between the ditches ;)
I really enjoy Gonagain adventures but mostly when Rick and Linda are observing the area they are in. Talking about solar panels or a heater in the cargo trailer or anything else about the trailer is less than entertaining to me. But I'm sure others are more interested in what makes a camper more exciting to consider. Gonagain is my most interested online video so that really says something, doesn't it ?
Thank you Alvis, it's good to hear what folks like to see in a video. For me, looking at the TH-cam analytics, it's divided about 50/50 as to which videos are more popular when it comes to the travel ones or the "how to" and product review ones. Good thing I enjoy doing both!
@@gonagain Confusing. In the write-up it says the Sika didn't hold up and failed on the plastic mounts..? Was that less than 5 months ago? I always wonder if there is some kind of resin or other reaction that happens with plastic products, often seems to have glue fail. Maybe metal mounts would be safer..?
Each mounting situation is different so they don't supply mounting hardware. They are available on Amazon, just find the ones that fit your installation.
Fiberglass yes, TPO I'd be careful about because you're depending on the adhesive UNDER the TPO fabric to hold. If it feels solid then maybe that would be ok too. The 252 will stick very well as long as the surface isn't shiny.
why run them in Parallel, rather than in Series? pushing up your current and wire requirements. is your solar charge controller voltage limited? usually solar prefers a higher voltage for the charge controller to be efficient.
The big problem that I have with running panels in series is that the slightest shadow across one of the panels takes the output down to nothing. Even some dirt across one of the corners seriously affects the output. I know, because I have to run my panels in series to get the proper voltage to charge my Bluetti AC200P. That's one reason that Parallel is preferred.
@@gonagain I guess I deliberately choose sunny spots away from trees for solar and satellite reception. My panels are newer with some built in parallelism to themselves. I have even registered 2 watts under full moon before 😱
Well darn! Now I got to get some Sikaflex 252 to play with. Do you ever wish your panels were more adjustable/tiltable? Is any gain from doing adjustment just not worth the effort? It would take time away from touristy things.
There is a definite benefit to being able to tilt the panels and this trailer and my own each have a panel that can tilt. Watch this video Jim: "To Tilt Or Not To Tilt?" th-cam.com/video/eCPvBLcyksE/w-d-xo.html
@@gonagain ..... Different strokes for different folks. It seems you will now have a combination, fixed and portable. I do like the fixed roof panels and portable for those difficult days. You have trained Linda well. A day window shopping at rocks and nothing taken home? Well done!
Great video Rick!! Check out another YTber info on mixing lithium and lead batteries in a bank. Emily and Clark’s Adventures. Clark is an engineer who lives on a sailboat and has done considerable research on this concept. He has designed a Battery Bank Management System that properly manages both type batteries. Unlike most engineers he does a great job of explaining it.
You could have put your blue tape on the inside bottom of the mounts so if you did get some of the glue on the bottom when replacing a panel the blue tape will give away if glue stuck on it.
Reading reviews on the sika 252 on amazon and everybody complaining the sellers there only have outdated/expired tubes to sell. Stuff is hard to find elsewhere. Any suggestions for fresh tubes?
Hello John, I haven't had any problems with the Sikaflex I've purchased from Amazon. If Sikaflex gets old it won't come out of the tube and you'd be able to get a refund from Amazon. If it comes out of the tube it's fine.
Great video, of course. A question, though; You have an aluminum roof. What would happen with the solar panels and adhesive with my travel trailer that has a PTO roof? Wouldn't that peel away?
Hello Denny. With a tpo roof I would opt for mechanically fastening my solar panels. The same style mounts can be used but you need to drill out the holes on the bases for fastening. It will still be faster though because you can bond the mounts to the panel like I did in the video.
@@gonagain Thanks for your reply. Rather than drilling all those holes into the TPO and plywood underneath, I think I'll look into getting portable solar panels and connect up to the batteries on the tongue of the trailer. I put easily accessible 12 volt and ground terminals out there on the front frame anyway. Keep up the good work. 🤠
Is there a big advantage to having the second panel loose, not mounted to the roof, so that you could move it around for the best light? If the trailer was under a shade tree, maybe take the (extra) panel out 40 or 50 feet to where there is good sunlight. Also, you could then turn the panel as the sun arced through the sky.
That man helping you looked like the BIG BOSS MAN. ! PROFESSIONAL WRESTLER ..W.W.E.
Wow! Three 180 watt panels..... I'm a bit jealous, since I am making do with a single 175 watt panel. I love the step by step approach to the video - it's very helpful.
Thanks for watching, Andrew. I put 400 watts on my little 6x10 trailer because it is so inexpensive to do these days. Also, adding an additional panel is very easy.
This is so helpful! Thank you! I am redoing my rv after losing my husband in Feb to cancer. I find that I already have the solar panels stored away and I have an inverter. Maybe he already stashed some lithium batteries in his stuff too. So glad holes don't need to be drilled in roof to install the panels. That's a huge relief! Thanks again! Saving your video for when I get to that project.
Hello Kathy, we had some problems with that particular adhesive. Be sure to rough up the bottom surface of the plastic mounts and use Sikaflex 292i to stick them down.
@@gonagain excellent! Thank you for the update. I wondered about the forward winds hitting against them. I will not forget. Screenshot your comment and saving. Thanks again!
You know why you’re one of my favorite channels? Because you’re Teachers. Real ones. A truly exceptional teacher knows what their students need to learn. Thank you. ❤️
Thank you for saying that! I used to teach people how to fly and found that being calm and thorough had it's benefits.
Sublime understatement- beneficial to staying above ground! 🌿🌿🌿
Yep!
The no hole install is a game changer I really like your detailed explanation great installation thanks 😊
Use 1 1/2 inch rare earth magnets...perfect
Amazing and perfect video. This answered every question I had about installing solar on my RV. I was scared to drill holes in the roof and didn't completely understand how to attach solar panels to a roof rack. This adhesive approach completely eliminates my worries. Thank you!
Thank you! I always thought one had to be an electrician to do this work. After watching your video, I am now confident that I can do this.
Just in support of double sided sticky tape: Many cargo trailers have the sheet metal skins installed with tape only, there are no mechanical fasteners whatsoever. The tape is so strong that if the skin is not lined up perfectly when installed, the skin has to be replaced with a new one because it cannot be removed without damage. Thanks for the excellent tutorial of how to do this, very clear and doable for any of us.
I didn't know that. I can't imagine it lasting very long with all the daily expansion and contraction. Although I installed some solar motion sensor lights to the fiberglass sides of my RV and they've been there for eight years - so what do I know?!
Thank you for your very thorough explanation on how a solar panel system works and how to easily wire and connect it. Until now, everything I've watched on other vlogs still left me clueless. I totally get it now. Again, thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching, Velda. See you on the next one!
Very nice job, Rick! Other advantages of the branch connectors in the parallel panel setup is improved performance in partially shaded conditions and (if there's an available unused plug) the potential to add a portable panel for extra wattage. Main drawback of parallel setup, due to comparatively lower voltage, is that longer cable runs will have higher power loss -- not too big a concern for most mobile setups. And another way of bringing a cable (up to about 10/2 marine grade) into a vehicle is the junction box entry fitting designed for romex -- has a pair of threaded thin lock nuts internally and a thick captured rubber passthrough on the outside in a galvanized housing. Due to the size of the threaded nipple it would be tricky to use where the roof or wall is more than 1/4 inch thick (and it does look like Frankenstein's neckwear). But for a car, truck, or SUV it is short enough to clear the closed doors on a B pillar, eliminating the need to puncture your roof!
Wow, great information there, Robert! I hadn't given any thought to hooking up a portable panel the way you mentioned, but that's a good idea. By the way, I intend to shorten those cables you saw in the video and also give a little lesson on soldering when I do for those who have never done that.
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Hey Bosco here.
Hope that you are not offended by a question that will probably be a simple question.
I have just installed 4. 310 watt panels on my roof of my trailer. And I need to what should I be reading at my S. controller?
My 4 panels are wired in pairs of 2. In series. ( pos+ to. Neg- )
Then parallel through 2 branch connector and fuse on each POS + wire
I don't know what reading I should be getting. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Bosco. 😊
Awesome Rick, wish I had an instructor like you in school, Cheers to you and Linda!
Thanks 👍
HAHA. Easy installation - you found some good helpers for the grunt work. My ladder days are over.
A great video, one of the easiest I’ve seen. I’m going to be fitting Solar to my motorhome soon here in England. Definitely going for a bond rather than screws. Thanks for the entertainment and advice.
Thanks for watching!
I use a lot of that 3m double sided tape. I bought one of those 300watt hot air pencil heat guns, use it to warm tape to 150° or so before I press parts together. Then burnish with back of a large spoon (for fabric or flat material), very permanent bond.
Great idea, and like how you installed everything! Nice job 🤙🏻
That’s the only way to work, do a quality job, something you can step back and look at and be proud of your work. Your a top notch craftsman my friend. Your the kind of person people dream of getting to do a job for them. So few real craftsman around anymore. A long time ago 1/4 inch was close enough for a carpenter now its 1inch and beyond. Good video my friend, take care.
Just found this video and so glad I did! Helps explain more about the solar panel installation process. Also, happy to see you didn't put holes in the roof as I don't want to do that to my cargo trailer either. Thank you for sharing this with us! Now... to decide between the industrial tape and sikaflex! :). Pros and cons to each I'm sure.
If your roof isn't very flat, for whatever reason, go with the Sikaflex because it can fill the gaps.
@@gonagain ok thanks! Um… have you get up on a ladder and see. 🙃
A caution on measuring the current across the panel terminal leads with the multimeter. This is one of the very few configurations that you can put your multimeter across a voltage source in amps/ current mode. If you did that across a battery voltage source for example you'd smoke your meter or burn out the protective fuse if it has one. Current is normally measured in series with the load, using the shunt built-in to the meter. Because of the way a solar panel delivers current up to a maximum, it allowed measuring across the panel leads, but across almost any other voltage source would not have ended well. Good video with good explanations and camera work. Thank you.
That's all true, but just so folks know, this is the way to test a solar panel that is rated UP TO 10 amps max.
Use Duct Tape to make nice straight lines when it dries. I own a GC company, and we do that frequently for flashing an other sealling type scenarios.
Agreed, You gotta check this out. Another video created by Gonagain that is worth saving and reviewing. Excellent material! Thanks Rick and family for demonstrating.
Thank you for your kind comment, Charles. See you on the next one!
Excellent video production, and like your attention to detail. As an observation, putting those panels in series while not exceeding the maximum DC input to your MPPT solar controller, will result in more current developed by the buck/boost converter in your controller at charging voltage (14.4v), and you will still be able to harvest energy at low sun angles. Shading is not that big of an issue with modern panels due to blocking diodes isolating each cell array, thus preventing partial shading from taking the entire panel down in voltage. Putting panels in parallel worked great during the era of PWM controllers as you could pulse more current. Those days have been superseded by MPPT Controllers, so higher input voltage means more amps at charging voltages.
We wire in parallel because we've had a lot of problems with shading in the past (campgrounds are full of trees!), but I'll try a series connection to see how it goes.
Thanks for a fun project! That glue stuff is strong enough to stick me to the side of the trailer at highway speeds for at least 5 yrs, I think. 😂 We'll soon replace our old panel to equal 3 of these BougeRV panels and call it good.
Ha Ha ... you had the hard part! You had to be more flexible than the guys :)
@@777cretbo everyone missed my double backflip to get off the roof! Haha.
@@SamuraiMama ... HA HA ... Good one!!
You could have waited until I had the camera pointed in your direction!
@@gonagain Great seeing a father and a daughter work together. Have Three adult Daughters 31, 29 & 27. I'm a young 57 :)
Once again you have given very clear instructions as well as practical advise for solar install. Only thing missing is ALWAYS connect solar charge contoller FIRST to battery and then connect solar panel incoming wires or risk blowing out the controller.
Yep, you're very right, but the batteries were already hooked up on this trailer. Which reminds me that I need to install a cut-off switch on my own rig.
Thanks, Good to know.
I still like those solar panels brackets bolted to the frame with adhesive on the trailer. Driving through West Texas and Oklahoma is a challenge with gusty winds 40 to 60 mph even in a parking lot ( February thru May). Always check the top of the roof to see if that adhesive is still holding in windy areas so you don't have the panels fly off unexpectedly. on your trip.
That's a good thing to do, joe. Checking the top of the roof could be part of the preflight check list. Thank you for the reminder.
Adding some straps for a "just in case" situation could be a life saver. Since this particular installation is "innovative," vehicle insurance carriers will not pay for property or personal injury damages resulting from a dislodged panel.
The glue bonds can also be weakened by flexing, heat, cold, wind, and age, etc.
Nice video! I'm wanting to do this on our 22' new Camper. More details on the fuse & a power cutoff would of been nice. I have a 2000W inverter but yours is probably better. Thank you for your video.
Love those britches dear sir!! *chuckling*
Yeah, I was stylin' that day!
Yay, top job Rick, will keep that in mind when banging on another Solar panel on the van. Kia Kaha, Kiwi Dave NZ.
I might just have to do this to my hauler. I was going to just do shore power but I really wanted both for backup purposes.
This is nice for those times when yo aren't in a campsite with hookups.
Great video! Just an hour for solar power, that's awesome!!
Thanks, I wanted to show people how easy it can be.
Great video. I live in Arizona and one of the main concerns using adhesives is their tendency to dry out and and fall off, especially with adhesive tapes. I'm looking to do this on my popup camper which is already pre wired for solar.
Thanks for watching this one, Biker Geek.
Better than VRB - thanks for all you do..
You're always one step ahead of me. I'm thinking I'll mount one port and one starboard of the roof centerline, with tilt on each one. Using a portable panel really impressed how angle affects power, and how much the sun moves in an hour. I've used Sika products for years. Never had a problem. (Other than mispositioning something.)
Hello Jon, I have one roof panel that tilts and one that is fixed. The time when I really notice the difference is in the winter months with a low sun and it makes a HUGE difference!
Good deal but was wondering why you didn't attach the panel to the brackets with screws instead of adhesive so its even easier to take out and possibly more secure.
Good question. I was careful to not get any adhesive under to panel and only on the sides so that it can be cut with a knife to get the panel out.
They are putting a lot for being mono, Amorphous silicon , Murphy glass , bifacial and poly is the best way to go for panels but either way it’ll work Good job.
I've just learned about bifacial but don't know yet about the others that you mentioned. Thanks!
Earned a subscribe with this one. About to start my own build.
Thanks for your subscription. I suggest that you go through our video list to look for those that interest you, because we cover a wide range of topics.
As a solar professional I really like that the panels are raised ABOVE the roof.
It is not much. Looks about an inch. 3 inches would be better.
Solar panels NEED air flow beneath to cool them.
They are NOT efficient if they get hot in the sun.
Plus, IMO, shading the RV is another huge benefit.
If the panels sit directly ON the roof -- then not only do they get hot,
but they transmit heat into the RV, too.
So, please make sure they are raised up.
Thanks for another great video.
Love the trailer build bids Gonagain. Thanks for the content
You did them the same way I did, except I put bolts through the panel/plastic mounts, instead of just sikaflex.
That doesn't hurt, I just learned to trust the Sikaflex years ago. If applied correctly it won't let go for anything.
@@gonagain
Yes I did my solar panel on the roof some five years ago now. We all learn more as the years go by. 🖖
I love this... but my camper is tiny and short. If I take solar panels off some day to upgrade with better technology or any reason, how do you get these adhesives off...if that is even possible?
The volts with no load are higher and the currant at a short circuit is higher but the voltage is zero look on the panel for the loaded voltage and currant and times them and it will give the real power.
Easy diy brackets- 2" aluminum angle cut at about 2" lengths. Place 1 upside down and back to back so they make kind of a Z, like regular panel mounts. Drill 1-2 1/4" or 5/16" holes to secure them together then mounting holes. Now your panels can be mounted and removed easily for replacement or service.
This idea for gluing down is very risky. It's only as good as the adhesive, the roof skin to trailer connection which isn't generally that good. I've seen panels laying in a traffic lane on the interstate, seen roofs peeled off etc. I personally would never do it...and I highly suggest you avoid it too.
Cover your panels for making connections.
Drilling is a little scary. How would you recommend waterproofing them ? I live in rainy weather
@@rjvizaka..dprrob1972 Use Dicor like originally used on RV roofs. There self leveling for flat horizontal surfaces or non leveling for vertical. Make your holes etc squirt some Dicor in hole and around it, put bracket in place fasten bolt. Then put Dicor over the bolt head and it will never leak.
Hi, Just found your channel. Your instructions and video are crystal clear. Perfect for me, a newbie. Cheers!
Glad it was helpful! We like to help out newbies---we were all newbies once. Thanks for your kind comment, Pete.
That's about as easy as it gets. Guess I have another project to do!
I have alway like watching your videos. but this was one of the best
Hello Phil, I have some more videos coming out soon on cargo trailer modifications that you might enjoy. Stay tuned!
@@gonagain Thank you, looking forward to it.
As usual I liked this video very much.
I have used the Sikaflex products I think you could attach your mother n law to the roof
Works better than duct tape!
The renogy MMPT charge controller can handle 100 volts input so all the panels can be in series giving 1/3 the power loss in the long wires coming down with no extra conectors on the roof. the higher voltage will give earlier and later charging and more in cloudy weather I get charging from 6 am till 6 pm with 2 x 40 volt panels in series for 80 volts at 5 amps turned into 25 amps at the charge controller with short thick wires to the battery. the x grid tie panels were only $ 20 each 200 watts
Good info and thank you. The only problem I have with my current set-up, which is in series, is the shadow factor, or the problem with a tree branch casting a shadow across one of the panels, or even a build-up of dirt in one corner of a panel Most campsites are located under the trees and this is causing a major problem. It's not as bad if the panels are in parallel.
You guys work together well and make it look so easy. Keep up the videos . Have fun traveling and stay safe.
Thank Kenneth! Will do!
Wow you make it so simple to understand thank you for sharing
Glad it was helpful, Laura!
Great video but, how do your lights and plugs and fridge tie into all of that? Maybe you could do a video on that to show us. Thanks for the entertainment and information!
Great install video! Thank you!
Great video overall! I like that you checked the panels' open circuit voltage and short circuit current because those values do indicate whether a panel is healthy. But, I don't think your power calculation is quite correct since those measurements were taken at different operating conditions (open and short). To calculate power (P=IV) the current (I) and voltage (V) must be measured under the same conditions (V and I must be known simultaneously). Since you took measurements in two different conditions there are actually two different power calculations (although they both result in zero power(!). The open circuit power is zero because the current is zero (P = I*V = 0 amps * 23 volts = 0 watts). The short circuit power is zero because the voltage is zero (P = I*V = 9.54 amps * 0 volts = 0 watts - again!).
You'll note that the tag on the panel also tells you what the proper voltage is associated with the maximum power (19.54V in the case of your panel). If you had a big variable resistor that could tolerate (dissipate) 180 watts you could adjust it so the voltage across it was 19.54V and then insert the meter in series and measure the current. Under ideal conditions you'd find the current should be (rearranging P=IV) I = P/V = 180 watts / 19.54 volts = 9.21 amps. In the real world it'd be something less for most panels, since their rated output is only achieved under lab conditions.
(The resistor value could be calculated starting with V=IR -> R=V/I -> R= 19.54 volts / 9.21 amps = ~2 ohms)
This is why MPPT solar controllers are such a big deal - they can automatically adjust the load so that power is maximized, i.e. the product of I and V at any moment gives the biggest value of P.
Another thing is that the solar controllers typically have a display option to show what the voltage and current values are at any given time - if you want to check real output power just hook the controller to each panel one at a time (probably need to have the battery connected - check the manual first). Although, as I said, your checks are probably adequate to make sure the panel is working - you just can't actually get a useful power reading from those measurements.
Thank you! That's a great explanation and I appreciate the time you took to give us that information. Now I know why an MPPT controller is more efficient also.
Great video as always! Do you feel that Sikaflex is far superior than eternabond? That looks like a nice solor setup. Take care and thank you
Hello Brian, I do think that Sikaflex is better when it comes to adhesive strength.
Absolutely professional & Install very Informative , I purchased 5 185 watt solar panels, & they were used dated 2018 & have ordered from numerous sites the necessary materials , wiring ect. My Question Rick how many solar panels would I need to power my , class A Motorhome ,I operate only one roof top ac was doing reaserch on line & from watching numerous videos I would need approximately 1500 watts , Is this correct ?
I really can't answer that for sure, but it will be a lot. You're also going to need a large bank of batteries and a sizable inverter. The AC will probably use about 1200watts per hour of use (average) and you'll need to install a "soft start" on it to lower the current draw each time it kicks on.
@@gonagain ok , thanks for Info Rick ya be safe my , friend
Aloha guys, informative video as always, also we enjoy seeing the daughters. Aloha hau'loi be kool 😎
Thanks for such a detailed explanation! Is it ok to use different solar panels together?
Not really. It can be done, but it won't get you the highest efficiency. It's best to stick with the same size and manufacturer. I might use different ones if i just happened to have them already and couldn't afford matching panels. It matters how they are wired, but I'm not an expert on that.
The adhesive method looks like a good idea on your cargo trailer but I would be concerned gluing a panel to an RV with a membrane roof.
Yeah, you don't want to do that.
Hi Rick. Yesterday I sent a reply regarding my concerns about charging my Solar Generators from the AC outlet in my FJ. (thank you for asking about which system I'm using, and Thank You for the Advice you have given) So far I'm using a Jackery 1000 and a Bluetti EB70. They can be charged from an AC house outlet and the folding Solar Panels as usual. My main worry is the AC outlet in my car. Somehow I believe Toyota has a built-in Converter, (from DC to AC) but I've yet to get a solid answer from them if a ' solar-converter' is needed when charging Lithium Batteries. I also have called to inquire the same question to both J & B, but no return answer as yet. Maybe I'm Over-Thinking this whole deal but I certainly wouldn't want to Burn Up those units. And yes, the FJ has the DC cigarette lighter outlet, but I have No intention of using it. I guess I'm showing how dumb I am with all this, but better to ask for help as opposed to destroying the Batteries. Forgive me for bugging you so much about all this. I explained more detail in yesterday's reply, but maybe that never came through? No Matter What, Thank you again Rick.
No bother Vincenzo. You should be able to plug either one of these units directly into that 110v circuit in your FJ without worry about the power stations being damaged. The main thing is to see how many watts are going in and if it will reach full charge. It should be fine because those automotive AC outlets are usually of low amperage.
@@gonagain Oh Thank You Again Rick for your response and for not getting crazy from all of my lengthy questions. I really appreciate your help. The only thing I can say or add about the FJ is: the power button says 120V/100 watts 'while vehicle is in motion' (while driving)and 120V/400 watts 'max output' when vehicle is parked (either engine on, or off and depending on what type of appliance is used, and with No lights on and No air conditioning on. That's All the manual states. Nothing about amperage however. That about sums it up, with an interesting aspect that there Is a built-in Inverter, a built in cooling fan, And a safety cut-off circuit if the power demand is Too High for any one setting. Rather cool, if ya ask me. So Yes, I'm a happy camper. I Promise to give you a Complete Break from my 'power problems', but you Definitely made my day. God Bless for being So smart with things I know nothing about. 🤲✌🤗 I Owe You Big Time👏👏👏👏👏
Do you have a shut off for panels before your charge controller, and a inline fuse? And do you have a circuit breaker between your charge controller and batteries?. I've watched literally a hundred videos and they mostly look like a nightmare to figure out, a schematic for a 1,000 watt system looks like they've wired for a rocket ship lol.
I went with 15amp inline fuses for each two panel series and a shut off to controller, and a 100a marine style circuit breaker and that's it. I will be adding on so i can charge via gas generator for any consecutive days with poor sunlight just as a precaution, if you have done that a video would be nice. I haven't looked into it yet, i had enough on my plate just getting a diy solar lift and my panels, charge controller and batteries figured out. I didn't want to add to my confusion. Great video, easy to follow. Thanks and God bless Rick.
Hello GypsyMike! My setup is still a work in progress and i need to install a switch between my panels and controller. I have a 15amp fuse coming off each panel and have a 30amp fuse between the controller and the battery.
How much space between the actual panel and outside of the frame? Enough for self taping screws before damaging the panels? Good vid by the way. Very helpful!
Yes, there's room for screws.
Thank you so much for your vidéo, I learned à lot. Which sikaflex you use, i saw a large variety of sikaflex, thanks again
Sikaflex 292i
Nice setup. However i'm scared of adhesive only mounted panels as i've heard of panels coming loose on the highway and killing the person in the vehicle behind. I hope yours don't come loose at all, time will tell. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.
So far, it's been good with no signs of lifting.
Great video. Thanks for the info. Very practical info!
Keep the pants, you'll need them for some other messy job later.
Sikaflex is serious stuff, works great. I assume you add an inverter to provide 120VAC too.
BTW, my Renogy charge controller is working correctly now, no error codes. Fixed itself...
A self healing electronic component! Happy to hear it's working properly again. There's an inverter on my daughter's trailer but I don't have one installed on mine and just use my portable power station if the need arises. I don't use too much 110v, mainly to charge my shaver or something.
Wow! I wish I would have seen this a month ago.
Hope it holds up to temperature and flexing. My cargo trailer flexes quite a bit on uneven terrain.
It should because of the flexibility of the adhesive. Good thing our trailers are all welded! That's why we got ours, because the commercially made camp trailers kept coming apart.
Thanks for the video. Did your daughter get glued to the roof or was she able to get down? lol. Looked like she was very careful and did a great job.
She mostly made it out unscathed. Mostly.
Love your channel and I mean this with humor / kindly. It struck me you shouldn't be 'sparking' the solar panel amp test right on top of your propane tanks :) I love panels and put 4 x 300w panels flat on top of my 7 x 14 cargo trailer - just barely fit with maxx fan in middle. These generate about 6kwh/day in summer. I do have a bit of sway at 60mph and was wondering if these 4 panels @ 40lbs each = 160lbs might be contributing to that. Will try sway bar / weight distribution hitch and see if the sway clears up.
Trailer sway usually has to do with fore and aft loading and that is affected by axle location. I had a 26' travel trailer that didn't need a sway bar and a 19' travel trailer that I wouldn't tow around the block without one! First I would make sure that you have the proper amount of hitch weight and if that doesn't do it then go for the sway bar.
I used heavier duty tires with less sidewall flex and that controlled my sway problems.
Wow - thank you for the tips. The weight is 3800lb, tongue weight is 550lb, load is evenly distributed, tires are at max pressure (dual axle) - all that is OK. I have the weight distribution / sway bar hitch on the way and will report back once I see how it does. If that doesn't do it, I'll check into the tires :)
You make it look so easy.👍
That was the main idea! So many have told me that they think it's too difficult for them to do.
This is pretty cool. I installed mine with 3M VHB tape and Loctite Platinum 😂 would have an easier time getting them off if I did it this way instead
If you have to remove a panel and replace it, I’m assuming you are going to have to screw or rivet it back in since you are not going to be able to glue it like you did the first time since the mounts are stationary and the glue would be push down to the bottom of the mount.
You could do that easily if you had to, but I would use a mold release agent on the bottom side and just force the adhesive into the crack with a putty knife. Good thought though, because stuff happens!
Thx for the knowledge.
Great vid gramps
Thanks, kiddo.
Love your video. Love Sikaflex products used for years in construction and yachting. What is your thoughts about a tilting panel for efficiency ? Not the building that is no problem
It is definitely beneficial to be able to tilt a panel of you are going to use your RV during the colder months when the sun is staying low. You'll get a 30-40% increase in wattage by raising the panel up.
Thank you Rick
Really helpful. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Rick, Would love an update on this type of installation. How is it holding up? Any troubles? I just acquired panels for the top of my rig and plan to install them just like this. Thank you for the instructions.
It's holding up just fine.
Why don't solar companies use these same quality tapes and adhesive's? Thank you for the great videos wishing you and your family health, happiness and adventure God bless and have a beautiful day
they cut corners to make more profit for the CEO and shareholders
Thanks for this video. Where did you get the mounting brackets ?
Hello Bill, we just got them off of Amazon. I put a link to them in the video description, or you can just search for "solar panel adhesive mounting brackets"
great looking panels. perform well too! my only conscern with my application is that my aluminum roof is loose. im afraid they may flap a little at speed. maybe bc of the brand of my trailer or 20"+ centered rafters... ive got unistruts up there. thought about taking them off but i should probably keep them
I addressed that problem in this video, and it may help you: th-cam.com/video/MJKRZkh17l8/w-d-xo.html
@@gonagain another great vid! my roof sheeting might be secured down, im not sure. ive already installed the ceiling anyway lol. but the spacing is wide between the rafters... theres a lot of flex between them. i suppose id try and put those cleats on, or very close to, the beams. we'll see, ive already got 7- 100w panels. im probably gonna install 5-6 of them. thats a lot of panels! thanks again, and keep it between the ditches ;)
I really enjoy Gonagain adventures but mostly when Rick and Linda are observing the area they are in. Talking about solar panels or a heater in the cargo trailer or anything else about the trailer is less than entertaining to me. But I'm sure others are more interested in what makes a camper more exciting to consider. Gonagain is my most interested online video so that really says something, doesn't it ?
Thank you Alvis, it's good to hear what folks like to see in a video. For me, looking at the TH-cam analytics, it's divided about 50/50 as to which videos are more popular when it comes to the travel ones or the "how to" and product review ones. Good thing I enjoy doing both!
Great information thank you.
Thanks, I'm installing panels to my camper as well and I'm glad you showed a way to mount w/o drilling into the roof. How is your precess holding up?
After many miles and lots of severe weather they're holding up great.
@@gonagain Great,thanks
@@gonagain Confusing. In the write-up it says the Sika didn't hold up and failed on the plastic mounts..? Was that less than 5 months ago?
I always wonder if there is some kind of resin or other reaction that happens with plastic products, often seems to have glue fail. Maybe metal mounts would be safer..?
The chance of finding a panel that matches the exact dimensions 5 years from now is pretty slim. Even from the same manufacturer
Did you use a standard caulking gun, or one of the higher pressure guns? Curious, seems a good way to mount panels to my travel trailer. Thanks
I used a standard caulking gun, but that one is 66 years old! It was my dad's from when I was a boy and sees regular use.
@@gonagain I said to myself that gun has been around for some time!!
Be very careful gluing to a roof, they aren't generally secured to the frame and roof membrane can peal right off
Where do you get the mounting hardware for the solar panels. My bougerv 180 watt solar panel came with no mounting hardware
Each mounting situation is different so they don't supply mounting hardware. They are available on Amazon, just find the ones that fit your installation.
Will the matarials (tape & 252) work on RV roofs that are not metal (i.e. fibergalss, TPO) Awesome job!
Fiberglass yes, TPO I'd be careful about because you're depending on the adhesive UNDER the TPO fabric to hold. If it feels solid then maybe that would be ok too. The 252 will stick very well as long as the surface isn't shiny.
Great job. Do you think a pair of their flexable CIGS panels would survive the heat of mounting them to the surface of an aluminum roof?
Cigs are way too expensive. But they are designed for it.
why run them in Parallel, rather than in Series? pushing up your current and wire requirements. is your solar charge controller voltage limited? usually solar prefers a higher voltage for the charge controller to be efficient.
The big problem that I have with running panels in series is that the slightest shadow across one of the panels takes the output down to nothing. Even some dirt across one of the corners seriously affects the output. I know, because I have to run my panels in series to get the proper voltage to charge my Bluetti AC200P. That's one reason that Parallel is preferred.
@@gonagain I guess I deliberately choose sunny spots away from trees for solar and satellite reception. My panels are newer with some built in parallelism to themselves. I have even registered 2 watts under full moon before 😱
That Sikaflex works great on a metal roof, how is it on a TPO roof?
You don't want to use adhesive mounts on a TPO roof though. In my opinion you should through-fasten in that situation.
@@gonagain thanks, I thought that, but wanted to get a second opinion.
Love this.... will this bond to a fiberglass rv roof
Yes it will. Just make sure the surface is super clean and rough it up slightly with 80grit sandpaper.
@@gonagain thanks
Well darn! Now I got to get some Sikaflex 252 to play with.
Do you ever wish your panels were more adjustable/tiltable? Is any gain from doing adjustment just not worth the effort? It would take time away from touristy things.
There is a definite benefit to being able to tilt the panels and this trailer and my own each have a panel that can tilt. Watch this video Jim: "To Tilt Or Not To Tilt?" th-cam.com/video/eCPvBLcyksE/w-d-xo.html
@@gonagain ..... Different strokes for different folks. It seems you will now have a combination, fixed and portable. I do like the fixed roof panels and portable for those difficult days.
You have trained Linda well. A day window shopping at rocks and nothing taken home? Well done!
Thank you very much.....t
Thanks for watching, Tony!
Would the S/P Mounting brackets and the Adhesive work on a Rubber RV Roof.....? =)
They will, but please do some more research on this first. I think there are some YT videos out there that address this.
Great video Rick!! Check out another YTber info on mixing lithium and lead batteries in a bank. Emily and Clark’s Adventures. Clark is an engineer who lives on a sailboat and has done considerable research on this concept. He has designed a Battery Bank Management System that properly manages both type batteries. Unlike most engineers he does a great job of explaining it.
Thanks for the tip!👍
I just watched his video yesterday!!! Talk about coincidence. He's a smart guy and had my attention the whole time.
Use 1 1/2 inch rare earth magnets...perfect
You could have put your blue tape on the inside bottom of the mounts so if you did get some of the glue on the bottom when replacing a panel the blue tape will give away if glue stuck on it.
Good idea. I tried thinking of some kind of mold release but just ended up being very careful and kept the adhesive under control.
Reading reviews on the sika 252 on amazon and everybody complaining the sellers there only have outdated/expired tubes to sell. Stuff is hard to find elsewhere. Any suggestions for fresh tubes?
Hello John, I haven't had any problems with the Sikaflex I've purchased from Amazon. If Sikaflex gets old it won't come out of the tube and you'd be able to get a refund from Amazon. If it comes out of the tube it's fine.
Great video, of course.
A question, though;
You have an aluminum roof. What would happen with the solar panels and adhesive with my
travel trailer that has a PTO roof? Wouldn't that peel away?
Hello Denny. With a tpo roof I would opt for mechanically fastening my solar panels. The same style mounts can be used but you need to drill out the holes on the bases for fastening. It will still be faster though because you can bond the mounts to the panel like I did in the video.
@@gonagain Thanks for your reply. Rather than drilling all those holes into the TPO and plywood underneath, I think I'll look into getting portable solar panels and connect up to the batteries on the tongue of the trailer. I put easily accessible 12 volt and ground terminals out there on the front frame anyway.
Keep up the good work. 🤠
Look for portable panels that use Sunpower cells, like Bluetti or Xtar.
@@gonagain Thank you!
You are just a wealth of knowledge!
Is there a big advantage to having the second panel loose, not mounted to the roof, so that you could move it around for the best light? If the trailer was under a shade tree, maybe take the (extra) panel out 40 or 50 feet to where there is good sunlight. Also, you could then turn the panel as the sun arced through the sky.