Brian, I am happy you posted this video. After I watched your first video on mounting solar panels on channel strut, I decided to do the same. However, after speaking with a professional installer, I opted to drill a few holes to provide additional support. The installer said he had seen panels detach from RV roofs, particularly rubber roofs. Also, I spoke with 3M engineers who said 3M did not recommend using their VHB tape for solar panel roof mounting since they had not done the type of testing necessary to validate its suitability. In addition, I leaned there are several types of VHB tape for different type applications, some for metal-to-metal bonding, others for metal to non-metal materials, etc. 3M also recommended a primer to strengthen the bond to certain non-metallic surfaces. I used solid aluminum channel (without the slots), a 45 mill thickness VHB tape for metal to non-metal applications, a 3M primer applied to my EPDM roof, and drilled three holes in each piece of strut, one at each end and one in the middle. Everything has held up fine so far.
Back in my solar installer days, I was often asked to do RV installs. I did at least 50 modules of various sizes on various types roofs. My first way to do it was to work off of a roof rack, if there was one. Most often though I used EPDM rubber "donuts", 7/16" dia., that had a brass 1/4" threaded insert bonded into them. I'd bolt my stand off legs to the modules first, then when on the roof and where I wanted them (away from shadowing structures as much as possible) I'd drill thru my braket legs into the roof with a 1/4" drill, all 4, then shift it enough to enlarge the hole to 7/16", and with a twisting motion insert the rubber bushing into the roof, re-position the module, and using 3/4" stainless 1/4" bolts, torque them down. NO caulk, no leaks, and never had one come loose. I bench tested the holding power of them first of course, to prove the concept to myself. Your no fastener at all method is yet another approach. For the last 5 years or more, my go to caulk OR glue is a product called Lexal, I get it at Ace Hardware. It outperforms silicone types hands down, and it's best described as an "adhesive caulk." It stays pliable, is crystal clear (or white) and is especially rated for any plastic to any other plastic, though I use it about anywhere.
@@RVwithTito They are hard to find, short of a specialty commercial hardware outfit , like Fastenal, even then you have to order them in. Lexal spendy? I like the smaller tubes, rather than the caulk gun sizes, they are less then 10 bucks I think, worth it! I have used it on my LSA plane a lot, one favorite trick is, for instance, when routing something like a GPS or Sirius SAT radio coax cable inside the cabin, rather than use mechanical fasteners of some type, I use the clear Lexal, just a dab every few inches, and some masking tape until it sets up. Next day, tape off, cable stays put and you can't see the Lexal.
VHB worked well for us. We did not need track but had extra large brackets. We even had ours set a little high to ensure the panels didn't overheat. Did the whole Alaska loop over 5 months and all was well.
Tito: thank you for your never-ending ideas. I'm grateful to you for your idea of mounting flexible panels on the corrugated plastic cardboard....a brilliant solution!
Tito, I used your last system (aluminum T-track and VHB tape) to install 850 watts of solar on my Leisure Travel Van and after 30,000 miles it was still solid. I did add a few bolts in strategic spots where the T-track didn’t perfectly follow the curve of the roof. With 8000+ watt-hours of 24v lithium BigBattery and the converter from the alternator, I could go indefinitely without plugging in. I didn’t even have a generator on that rig. Thanks for the great insights!
@@joeboxter3635 Over a 24 hour period, we typically run the batteries down about 15%-20%. During the day, we charge batteries from the chassis alternator (about 40 amps) and the solar arrays (the 850 watts usually produces 300-500 watts in most conditions). With a few hours of driving and/or some decent sunlight, we get that 20% back within four to six hours. We’re essentially able to go indefinitely without shore power. Of course, running the AC changes everything. I get 2-4 hours before the batteries are depleted with the AC running.
hmm.... for solving some issues like: - having options to re-do panel configuration in future, - better height for improved hot air escape etc. P/Starb + B/Stern mounting solution- might could solve above - Permanent Base Rails @ P/Starb direction : mount like you did; one's chosen rail system, across roof in Port to Starboard direction (P/Starb) at a measured planned distance apart... say from bow end of roof, bond permanently rails in P/Starb direction, every 2 feet? Do this all way to the back Bow to Stern. - Reconfigurable upper rails @ B/Stern direction : atop Permanent Base rails; using that rails bolt on mount system, place sections of rails that run Bow to Stern (B/Stern). Place these sections to match where needed for panel mounting, All the panels etc. are mounted with these upper B/Stern rails. Bolt atop the Base; where needed, some small P/Starb, or B/Stern sections of rail , to use for clamping the panels on an edge where needed. Now your panels are further off roof by 0.50 to 0.75 inches than just one rail as you did . This should aid heat escape issue.. AND best of all... now your panel lay out is completely reconfigurable. Just unbolt Bow/Stern rails from their Permanent Base Rail and move them, and the panel attached to them, to where newly desired. Hmmm on second thought. for those with curved RV roofs etc.. the Permanent base rails going P/Starb may need to be in sections and not one rail all the way across in order to help deal with the curve. ... or guess one could slice the vertical sides of Base Rail in a few places allowing one to bend the bottom face till whole thing matches the roofs' curve. Luckily a problem I wont have with my Ambulance boxes flat roof..
I started watching you ~6 years ago as I was learning about solar. I did a “chase the sun” system out of fear of drilling holes & leaks. I applaud your experience and follow up. I am looking at a permanent installation on our new tt but very cautiously evaluating which way. Thanks again for the follow up.
@@RVwithTito 🇦🇺 plenty of sun down under. Yep I’ve turned blue as well, I’ve done exactly the same thing with my solar, but I use ground panels because I park in the shade. It gets hot in AUS. 🍻🌮
I'm glad u put the scews in your roof. No matter what, relying on just adhesive strength is risky, especially for this application. Also, high quality stainless steel mounting hardware and tilt bars can be purchased from AM Solar.
I recently did the same with strut and VHB tape, added 3, 210 watt panels, but I did run a few large screws to each rail. I used silicone rubber to secure each long side.
Tito I too added screws almost right away after using the 3M tape. Though the tape will not let go I started seeing videos of winnebago roof repairs where the layers separated in the wind or going down the road. I also thought the panels would put even more force helping cause a separation. So I added a screw to each panel leg
Tito your an excellent Mechanic in whatever you do. You remind me of myself I like suspenders and a belt when your mounting something like that to the roof ya never know. Thanks for all your very detailed videos
Hi guys, I am so glad it as worked out well I’m doing mine soon and will definitely copy your way. I really don’t want to drill my roof in our caravan so I won’t copy you there but the rest great. Also using the plastic guttering is a great idea but I won’t be doing that as our temperatures here in Australia can get very high and I think we should use the breeze to keep it a bit cooler. So thanks for all your ideas and may you both stay safe. 🇦🇺Jon
Yes on rubber roof didnt feel confident with just VHB tape. my roof has 1/8 inch wood substrate. Screws have torn out under high wind. So I use Well nuts that grip under the surface of the wood and tpo. So far excellent with the T track.
Thank you for another great video. Living in Arizona, I’ve always been afraid to glue things on /down for fear our extreme heat will loosen it up. I love the way you describe things. Thank you again.
Hi Brian! I’ve been watching your vids for a couple years now. I thought I was already subscribed, but turns out I wasn’t, so I just subscribed! I always come back to watch some of your older vids, like this one, because you do a very thorough job of describing your DIY process. Thanks again and I hope your rv solar system is still holding up well. Take care and keep doing what you’re doing. God bless!
I just found your video and thanks for your video. It’s I’m getting ready to buy a Provo 1980 or 90 and I want to put a solar panel on top like yours. Where did you buy yours at if you don’t care did gonna be 40 or 45 foot?
Brian, the slope to the roof to which you referred is called "tumblehome." At least, that is the engineering term used in the automobile industry. You will make yourself clearly understood when discussing this aspect of your vehicle with automotive engineers and designers.
At 14:20 it shows 4 MPPT, 36w, 31w, 113w, 223w. these are the 4 MPPT 100/50. what if you bought two MPPT 150/35. if two of the solar panels are put in series the current would remain at about 11 A. but the VOC would be about 49.1v + 49.1v. = 100 v. The MPPT 150/35 would give room to grow in case you replace with 490 w or above. The panels in series would be the ones with 36w panel + 113w panel (giving the MPPT a chance to work) perhaps bringing them both above 100 w giving 200 w. I'm assuming the 36w panel is being shaded in some way of course!, but the MPPT would bring voltage up! This is a test you could do. Most don't understand what I'm suggesting here and may sound nuts, but that is what MPPT's are supposed to do. you can test it. So on a day where you get 36w, 31w, 113w, 223w. you can video the wattage like normal. Then disconnect all MPPT, connect the panels giving LOW and HIGH voltage in series, and install the two MPPT 150/35. So two panels to one MPPT and the other two panels to the other MPPT making sure the panels giving the low voltage and high voltage are put in series. and see what happens.
The video clip you mention was on a day parked in the woods (heavily shaded - future video). I just added it here to show the display. Definitely not normal conditions. These are 425 Watt panels with over 70VOC each and a potential output current (after MPPT) of around 46A at 12V.
Hi Tito, guess my other comment on the first install of these panels hasn't been read but you've done what I saw as a potential lift and your solution of the leading edge baffle in a word, excellent! Unfortunately to tilt the panels means a trip to the roof each time, this is where the solar panel side shade idea you had would be less work to aim at the sun and keep the side of the RV cooler being shaded by the panels. The side mount with your baffle is just getting better, I finished my initial lithium battery install yesterday so my project is moving forward. Thanks for your tips and insight.
Always impressed with your projects, and innovative design and installs. Glad to hear it held up so well and just proves you really know what you are doing. Nice job and thanks for the videos.
Lock washers next to the bracket are pretty useless(if not counter productive) on the bolt head in a pivot. L washers are meant to dig in to stop rotation. I would suggest going with nylock nuts instead. ( A locknut with a nylon insert) and ditch the lock washers in that situation. A flat washer in place of the L washers would be a better arrangement. If you used nut-serts in the panel, a dab of blue lock-tite would be appropriate.
👍 Nice job, thanks. I plan on doing that very same mounting technique as to allow for some of those appliance lifting air bags to be utilized underneath the panels (cross member mid way with plate) to raise the panel. A spring or springs would work to keep the panel wind safe while stationary and some quick type of lock downs for traveling. As you have two rows of panels a simple selection valve at the air pump would suffice. Combine the air bag release tubes together and have a single going to a convenient place to lower. A proper timer to the pump could be programmed for it to "follow" the sun, and just drop them back down in the morning.
Your solar panels look really nice Brian. They're never gonna go anywhere! I'm glad they're working out really well for you. Keep up the great work and please stay safe and healthy God bless.🙏🏻👍
Brian, thanks for this great info. I’ve noticed that there are many versions of VHB Tape. Could you let us know which model of tape you used? Thanks again.
Hi Brian! Thanks allot for the update, Thanks to you I'm planning to add a solar sistem on my Semi Truck cab. Please keep up with the great projects you do.
You and other few TH-camrs inspired me do a big solar install of 3800w with sliding panels. I also used VHB tape and later found need a few screws. But with my 3800w, the best I have ever seen is about 2000~2500w.
Cosine error will kill the efficiency of a flat roof solar install especially in the winter. The panels need to be facing perpendicular to the sun for full output. You’ll lose 30% of your power at a 45 deg angle, and 65% at a 20 deg angle.
@@stargazer7644 I understand. That's for sure in winter time. But the number I refered to (2-2.5 kw) is in summer time which the cosine error is relatively small. Recent days (November), I am getting only 1600 to 1800w now. 😅
@@timmysrvlife Are you using an MPPT (tracking) controller? That will also make a significant difference. Make sure there are no shadows at all on your panels. Even just the slight shadow of a power line or a guy wire or antenna or bird droppings across any part of a panel will drastically reduce the entire panel (or string) output by partially shading one or more cells since they're in series.
Have you noticed any water pooling next to the struts causing a dam effect? I’m thinking about doing this, but raising the struts 2/4 inch using washers under the attachment points.
Was wondering why you didn't just use one of the K2 system rails which are aluminum made for home rooftop solar. Price is about the same as the rails you got from Home Depot. Santan solar sells the K2 system made for bolting down to metal roofs called the MiniRail XPRess.
I like the idea of no drilling but eventually the adhesive will give up due to temp changes. Even tiles on the shuttle eventually came loose. I would have a safety leash for when they come loose so no one dies on the highway.
I didn’t have as good success. I followed your previous install with flexible panels to the T and first trip out 2 days ago lost a solar panel on I5 south near Toledo WA.
Thanks for the great videos! Just curious what size mounting brackets you used initially and also on the higher ones you updated in this video? Thank you!!
I'm glad I saw this video! I saw your earlier one and was all set to do a no drill mounting of my panels but then I saw this one and you mentioned the delamination problem that I would run into with the rubber roof. I guess I'm just not feeling great about the idea of having to drill 48 holes into my roof instead of using the strut channel solution.
Brian, great video. Thank you for posting your diagram for download- I just got it. I’m looking at putting the sore on my fifth wheel now and have been trying to find a high power solution what’s up having solar panels everywhere. Thank you for all you’ve done
Just wondering. Is the roof on your motor home a pebble grain or smooth. I want to use VHT tape but the roof on my new coach is pebble grain. In the past I used the tape on a smooth Tiffin Wayfarer roof and it stayed put after almost 3 1/2 years. Thanks in advance.
I chose SunPower because I'm familiar with the cell technology and quality. I've seen them come and go from the used SanTan stock and debated on buying more. I'm not familiar with the other used inventory and their used. They do have spec sheets for their panels and also provide a one year warranty on all of their used panels. I also researched the specific panel and manufacturer to see what others said about them. Some folks have told me that Canadian Solar is a good quality and inexpensive option, but I don't have any first-hand experience with them. One recommendation is to pick them up in Arizona or Georgia if possible. You'll save a few hundred bucks in freight chargers. Good luck!
Someone recommended I try it a while back instead of Dicor. So I have been. Here it is: amzn.to/3wU5UJt It works just as well plus you get more and it stores easily for repeat applications.
We need more RVs that are entirely off grid; more solar, larger battery compartments, larger propane containers, recycled water system for the grey tank (sinks, shower, washer) that reuses the water and filters it (easy cleanable filters), air to water systems that generate 5 to 10 gallons of water a day (filtered), "Cinderella Propane Incinerating Toilet or Composting Toilets (get rid of black tanks)" hot water on demand, mini-wood stoves with electric heating to reduce the massive condensation from propane heating, and more.
Brian, don't all these roofs have some sort of framing in their ceiling, even if it's sparse? Wouldn't a screw into the framing be better (if we could figure out where it is)?
Not sure. If so I couldn't tell you where. Initially I hoped to screw into some kind of support. I believe it's the fiberglass and curve of the roof that gives it it's strength.
Great info Tito , Im a new subscriber here and enjoy how you lay out the info and back it up with great camera shots of the installs and equipment /tools needed etc. I don't think most people realize how much work goes into shooting and editing a well made video takes . I have a 2000 Monaco Diplomat that has a thin aluminum roof very similar to the construction of the Winnebago . I had 3 panels (130 watts each lol) installed maybe 12 yrs ago . They were attached with just the Z B rackets and although still in place you can PULL up on them and feel the roof move . Im thinking about upgrading the panels and patching the old holes and using the STRUT channel VHB tape . Going from AGMs 900 amp hr to at least an 800 amp hr Lithium bank . I like the battle borns but was also considering the new 330amp Victrons Lithium . Seems hard to find many reviews on Victron batteries but everyone uses all their other electronics? Thank you for well made content J. USMC
Hey there. Welcome! Don't know much about Victrons batteries. What I do know is that the BMS is a separate piece of equipment. So don't forget that piece. 👍
I only realised recently that the single solar panel on my motorhome has just been glued down with no drilling. Its a 2008 model motorhome. I wish i knew what adhesive they used.
Thanks for your video Brian always lovely to see what you guys are up to. Do you have a video on how you mounted them and how did you store the battery backups for the solar panels. I am in Auckland New Zealand living in a Cottage from Cedar Creek USA so solar panels would be really great I am stationary I cannot tow the semi-trailer around New Zealand it would need dealership plates for that
Hi Brian. What make and model is your RV? Is it Canadian built as opposed to US given that it has a fibreglass roof in stead of a rubber roof? Thank you for taking the time to make and share your videos..
Brian, another great video. It doesn’t look like you have air conditioners up on your roof. Is this so? Did you remove them? How do you deal with the heat? Looking forward to seeing your video on your other solar components especially how the Multi Plus II has performed.
Peter is correct. Our A/C heatpump unit is in the basement. That was a feature I really love about this rig. In case you're wondering...yes I can run the A/C with my setup. I don't even need a soft start to fire it up.
@@stewartmhyre1528 Coleman basement AC has two compressors, and most RV builders bolted them in not a slide out rack for repairs and cleaning and service. They are not easy to drop and repair. Also AZ Expert has shown his channel over the years they have had circuit board issues and updates. Not a lot of room to work.
Brian, I am happy you posted this video. After I watched your first video on mounting solar panels on channel strut, I decided to do the same. However, after speaking with a professional installer, I opted to drill a few holes to provide additional support. The installer said he had seen panels detach from RV roofs, particularly rubber roofs. Also, I spoke with 3M engineers who said 3M did not recommend using their VHB tape for solar panel roof mounting since they had not done the type of testing necessary to validate its suitability. In addition, I leaned there are several types of VHB tape for different type applications, some for metal-to-metal bonding, others for metal to non-metal materials, etc. 3M also recommended a primer to strengthen the bond to certain non-metallic surfaces. I used solid aluminum channel (without the slots), a 45 mill thickness VHB tape for metal to non-metal applications, a 3M primer applied to my EPDM roof, and drilled three holes in each piece of strut, one at each end and one in the middle. Everything has held up fine so far.
Thanks for sharing that additional information. Great job!
Back in my solar installer days, I was often asked to do RV installs. I did at least 50 modules of various sizes on various types roofs. My first way to do it was to work off of a roof rack, if there was one. Most often though I used EPDM rubber "donuts", 7/16" dia., that had a brass 1/4" threaded insert bonded into them. I'd bolt my stand off legs to the modules first, then when on the roof and where I wanted them (away from shadowing structures as much as possible) I'd drill thru my braket legs into the roof with a 1/4" drill, all 4, then shift it enough to enlarge the hole to 7/16", and with a twisting motion insert the rubber bushing into the roof, re-position the module, and using 3/4" stainless 1/4" bolts, torque them down. NO caulk, no leaks, and never had one come loose. I bench tested the holding power of them first of course, to prove the concept to myself. Your no fastener at all method is yet another approach. For the last 5 years or more, my go to caulk OR glue is a product called Lexal, I get it at Ace Hardware. It outperforms silicone types hands down, and it's best described as an "adhesive caulk." It stays pliable, is crystal clear (or white) and is especially rated for any plastic to any other plastic, though I use it about anywhere.
Great info. Thanks! I found the Lexel (spendy) and will have to look into those rubber donuts.
@@RVwithTito They are hard to find, short of a specialty commercial hardware outfit , like Fastenal, even then you have to order them in. Lexal spendy? I like the smaller tubes, rather than the caulk gun sizes, they are less then 10 bucks I think, worth it! I have used it on my LSA plane a lot, one favorite trick is, for instance, when routing something like a GPS or Sirius SAT radio coax cable inside the cabin, rather than use mechanical fasteners of some type, I use the clear Lexal, just a dab every few inches, and some masking tape until it sets up. Next day, tape off, cable stays put and you can't see the Lexal.
@@portnuefflyer Hmm. That cable routing idea sounds interesting. I'll have to try that. Thanks!
Hi tito from the UK..was watching you putting these on , can't believe its a year ago, I'm getting old too quick 😂
Almost a year...I installed them in late Sept but didn't release the video right away.
VHB worked well for us. We did not need track but had extra large brackets. We even had ours set a little high to ensure the panels didn't overheat. Did the whole Alaska loop over 5 months and all was well.
Nice! Good to hear.
Tito: thank you for your never-ending ideas. I'm grateful to you for your idea of mounting flexible panels on the corrugated plastic cardboard....a brilliant solution!
Thanks for the update, it’s always great to hear how things are working almost a year down the road. Great job and great video
Glad you liked it. I'm glad things are holding up well.
Tito, I used your last system (aluminum T-track and VHB tape) to install 850 watts of solar on my Leisure Travel Van and after 30,000 miles it was still solid. I did add a few bolts in strategic spots where the T-track didn’t perfectly follow the curve of the roof. With 8000+ watt-hours of 24v lithium BigBattery and the converter from the alternator, I could go indefinitely without plugging in. I didn’t even have a generator on that rig. Thanks for the great insights!
That's nice to hear. I appreciate that 30K miles follow up. Great job!
How do you bet 8000wh out of 850w. That'd be 10 hours of sunlight and 94+% effective.
@@joeboxter3635 Over a 24 hour period, we typically run the batteries down about 15%-20%. During the day, we charge batteries from the chassis alternator (about 40 amps) and the solar arrays (the 850 watts usually produces 300-500 watts in most conditions). With a few hours of driving and/or some decent sunlight, we get that 20% back within four to six hours. We’re essentially able to go indefinitely without shore power. Of course, running the AC changes everything. I get 2-4 hours before the batteries are depleted with the AC running.
hmm.... for solving some issues like:
- having options to re-do panel configuration in future,
- better height for improved hot air escape etc.
P/Starb + B/Stern mounting solution- might could solve above
- Permanent Base Rails @ P/Starb direction :
mount like you did; one's chosen rail system, across roof in Port to Starboard direction (P/Starb) at a measured planned distance apart... say from bow end of roof, bond permanently rails in P/Starb direction, every 2 feet? Do this all way to the back Bow to Stern.
- Reconfigurable upper rails @ B/Stern direction :
atop Permanent Base rails; using that rails bolt on mount system, place sections of rails that run Bow to Stern (B/Stern). Place these sections to match where needed for panel mounting, All the panels etc. are mounted with these upper B/Stern rails. Bolt atop the Base; where needed, some small P/Starb, or B/Stern sections of rail , to use for clamping the panels on an edge where needed.
Now your panels are further off roof by 0.50 to 0.75 inches than just one rail as you did . This should aid heat escape issue.. AND best of all... now your panel lay out is completely reconfigurable. Just unbolt Bow/Stern rails from their Permanent Base Rail and move them, and the panel attached to them, to where newly desired.
Hmmm on second thought. for those with curved RV roofs etc.. the Permanent base rails going P/Starb may need to be in sections and not one rail all the way across in order to help deal with the curve. ... or guess one could slice the vertical sides of Base Rail in a few places allowing one to bend the bottom face till whole thing matches the roofs' curve. Luckily a problem I wont have with my Ambulance boxes flat roof..
Paul Simon's illegitimate son can really rock the solar! Cheers!
That's a first. I can see it 😀
Genius little rain gutter hijacking there ... that was good thinking...
Thanks. Only $5 for the 8ft section of gutter.
Very cool, just one note....ANYTHING not aluminum or s/s will soon enough drip rusty lines down your RV if not handled...
Very nice DIY install. I like to see the innovation of using other parts in different systems. Love the tilt option. Great job.
Glad you like it! That tilt option makes a big difference this time of year.
I started watching you ~6 years ago as I was learning about solar. I did a “chase the sun” system out of fear of drilling holes & leaks. I applaud your experience and follow up. I am looking at a permanent installation on our new tt but very cautiously evaluating which way. Thanks again for the follow up.
Thanks for following along. Good luck with the project!
Glad you posted follow up video. Glad it still hanging in there.
Thank you.
Good job, solar controller for each panel. Perfect. Victron rocks….👍
Totally agree. Once you go blue, eventually everything turns blue.
@@RVwithTito
🇦🇺 plenty of sun down under.
Yep I’ve turned blue as well, I’ve done exactly the same thing with my solar, but I use ground panels because I park in the shade. It gets hot in AUS. 🍻🌮
Rainy day, good chance to catch up on my favorite you tubers. Impressive results on that system.
Enjoy! 😊
I'm glad u put the scews in your roof. No matter what, relying on just adhesive strength is risky, especially for this application. Also, high quality stainless steel mounting hardware and tilt bars can be purchased from AM Solar.
I recently did the same with strut and VHB tape, added 3, 210 watt panels, but I did run a few large screws to each rail. I used silicone rubber to secure each long side.
Great. Hope they last a long time for you.
Tito I too added screws almost right away after using the 3M tape. Though the tape will not let go I started seeing videos of winnebago roof repairs where the layers separated in the wind or going down the road. I also thought the panels would put even more force helping cause a separation. So I added a screw to each panel leg
Yeah. I feel better about it now...same reasons.
Tito your an excellent Mechanic in whatever you do. You remind me of myself I like suspenders and a belt when your mounting something like that to the roof ya never know. Thanks for all your very detailed videos
Thanks!
Hi guys, I am so glad it as worked out well I’m doing mine soon and will definitely copy your way. I really don’t want to drill my roof in our caravan so I won’t copy you there but the rest great. Also using the plastic guttering is a great idea but I won’t be doing that as our temperatures here in Australia can get very high and I think we should use the breeze to keep it a bit cooler. So thanks for all your ideas and may you both stay safe. 🇦🇺Jon
Yes on rubber roof didnt feel confident with just VHB tape. my roof has 1/8 inch wood substrate. Screws have torn out under high wind. So I use Well nuts that grip under the surface of the wood and tpo. So far excellent with the T track.
Thank you for another great video. Living in Arizona, I’ve always been afraid to glue things on /down for fear our extreme heat will loosen it up.
I love the way you describe things.
Thank you again.
I've used Silicon mounting pads for many years on several trailers that travel year round. Never had any issues at all.
Great to hear. I can't see these coming off without my help.
You are amazing, you think about everything. Please open up a custom upgrade gadget install shop.
I wish. Can barely get my RV down our road :)
Hi Brian! I’ve been watching your vids for a couple years now. I thought I was already subscribed, but turns out I wasn’t, so I just subscribed! I always come back to watch some of your older vids, like this one, because you do a very thorough job of describing your DIY process. Thanks again and I hope your rv solar system is still holding up well. Take care and keep doing what you’re doing. God bless!
well done explanation. no annoying music either
I just found your video and thanks for your video. It’s I’m getting ready to buy a Provo 1980 or 90 and I want to put a solar panel on top like yours. Where did you buy yours at if you don’t care did gonna be 40 or 45 foot?
The solar panels? I got them from SanTan Solar in AZ.
Brian, the slope to the roof to which you referred is called "tumblehome." At least, that is the engineering term used in the automobile industry. You will make yourself clearly understood when discussing this aspect of your vehicle with automotive engineers and designers.
Didn't know that. Thanks! Creates added strength I'm sure.
Wonderful! I need a list of all these staff ;)
At 14:20 it shows 4 MPPT, 36w, 31w, 113w, 223w. these are the 4 MPPT 100/50.
what if you bought two MPPT 150/35.
if two of the solar panels are put in series the current would remain at about 11 A. but the VOC would be about 49.1v + 49.1v. = 100 v.
The MPPT 150/35 would give room to grow in case you replace with 490 w or above.
The panels in series would be the ones with 36w panel + 113w panel (giving the MPPT a chance to work) perhaps bringing them both above 100 w giving 200 w.
I'm assuming the 36w panel is being shaded in some way of course!, but the MPPT would bring voltage up!
This is a test you could do.
Most don't understand what I'm suggesting here and may sound nuts, but that is what MPPT's are supposed to do. you can test it.
So on a day where you get 36w, 31w, 113w, 223w. you can video the wattage like normal.
Then disconnect all MPPT, connect the panels giving LOW and HIGH voltage in series, and install the two MPPT 150/35. So two panels to one MPPT and the other two panels to the other MPPT making sure the panels giving the low voltage and high voltage are put in series.
and see what happens.
The video clip you mention was on a day parked in the woods (heavily shaded - future video). I just added it here to show the display. Definitely not normal conditions. These are 425 Watt panels with over 70VOC each and a potential output current (after MPPT) of around 46A at 12V.
Hi Tito, guess my other comment on the first install of these panels hasn't been read but you've done what I saw as a potential lift and your solution of the leading edge baffle in a word, excellent!
Unfortunately to tilt the panels means a trip to the roof each time, this is where the solar panel side shade idea you had would be less work to aim at the sun and keep the side of the RV cooler being shaded by the panels.
The side mount with your baffle is just getting better, I finished my initial lithium battery install yesterday so my project is moving forward.
Thanks for your tips and insight.
I think you did a good job, long rail fitted with a good glue all the way that will make a strong attach to the roof.
Thanks. I think it's held up pretty well and we've been through some extreme conditions.
Just a comment on the wind baffles. We lost one panel in the desert because the wind came from the rear end of the trailer. Blew it right off.
Yikes. We've been in some heavy gusts as well. Luckily dirty is all we got.
Always impressed with your projects, and innovative design and installs. Glad to hear it held up so well and just proves you really know what you are doing. Nice job and thanks for the videos.
You bet. Glad to share :)
Looks good, I also purchased a newer rv and have to do this job over.
Good luck. Sometimes it's nice to apply new knowledge to a new project though.
Lock washers next to the bracket are pretty useless(if not counter productive) on the bolt head in a pivot. L washers are meant to dig in to stop rotation. I would suggest going with nylock nuts instead. ( A locknut with a nylon insert) and ditch the lock washers in that situation. A flat washer in place of the L washers would be a better arrangement. If you used nut-serts in the panel, a dab of blue lock-tite would be appropriate.
👍 Nice job, thanks. I plan on doing that very same mounting technique as to allow for some of those appliance lifting air bags to be utilized underneath the panels (cross member mid way with plate) to raise the panel. A spring or springs would work to keep the panel wind safe while stationary and some quick type of lock downs for traveling. As you have two rows of panels a simple selection valve at the air pump would suffice. Combine the air bag release tubes together and have a single going to a convenient place to lower. A proper timer to the pump could be programmed for it to "follow" the sun, and just drop them back down in the morning.
really interesting video. thank you for sharing. how often do you end up tilting the panels to maximize the input?
Often in the winter months when the sun is lower.
Such great ideas and clever building. Not to mention good video footage and editing. Thank you!
I really appreciate that. Thanks!
Your solar panels look really nice Brian. They're never gonna go anywhere! I'm glad they're working out really well for you. Keep up the great work and please stay safe and healthy God bless.🙏🏻👍
Thanks. Yeah there solid.
I love your channel. You’re so friendly and your information is useful.
Awwe :) I appreciate that.
Thank you very much Tito, I am at that stage in my RV and the video has been very illustrative.
Great to hear. Good luck with your projects.
Brian, thanks for this great info. I’ve noticed that there are many versions of VHB Tape. Could you let us know which model of tape you used? Thanks again.
I used 1.5" RP62, but it's really hard to find now unless you buy in bulk (amzn.to/3Ywprfi)
Hi Brian!
Thanks allot for the update, Thanks to you I'm planning to add a solar sistem on my Semi Truck cab.
Please keep up with the great projects you do.
Awesome. Good luck! Have you considered Merlin solar merlinsolar.com/tractor-semi-class-8/
Awesome video Brian! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Definitely do that video on your setup…
You and other few TH-camrs inspired me do a big solar install of 3800w with sliding panels. I also used VHB tape and later found need a few screws. But with my 3800w, the best I have ever seen is about 2000~2500w.
Cosine error will kill the efficiency of a flat roof solar install especially in the winter. The panels need to be facing perpendicular to the sun for full output. You’ll lose 30% of your power at a 45 deg angle, and 65% at a 20 deg angle.
@@stargazer7644 I understand. That's for sure in winter time. But the number I refered to (2-2.5 kw) is in summer time which the cosine error is relatively small. Recent days (November), I am getting only 1600 to 1800w now. 😅
@@timmysrvlife Are you using an MPPT (tracking) controller? That will also make a significant difference. Make sure there are no shadows at all on your panels. Even just the slight shadow of a power line or a guy wire or antenna or bird droppings across any part of a panel will drastically reduce the entire panel (or string) output by partially shading one or more cells since they're in series.
Very nice setup. Thanks for sharing.
You bet!
Thanks, that was a great review. Happy camping.
Thanks!
Great update video. Like the small changes you made.
Glad you enjoyed it
Actually think your tape method is stronger then using wood screws into that thin plywood.
You did a really great job and put a lot of thought into it.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great update. Looking forward to the next video. Thanks Don
You bet
Thank you so much for this follow up! Loved the idea so much I'm doing something almost identical with residential panels on my travel trailer.
Glad it helped. Good luck. I'm doing another one on my garage with the extra panels I have. It should power my shop no problem.
Have you noticed any water pooling next to the struts causing a dam effect? I’m thinking about doing this, but raising the struts 2/4 inch using washers under the attachment points.
Was wondering why you didn't just use one of the K2 system rails which are aluminum made for home rooftop solar. Price is about the same as the rails you got from Home Depot. Santan solar sells the K2 system made for bolting down to metal roofs called the MiniRail XPRess.
I like the idea of no drilling but eventually the adhesive will give up due to temp changes. Even tiles on the shuttle eventually came loose. I would have a safety leash for when they come loose so no one dies on the highway.
Thanks again for all you do for us. God bless
You bet
I didn’t have as good success. I followed your previous install with flexible panels to the T and first trip out 2 days ago lost a solar panel on I5 south near Toledo WA.
Fantastic , looks great. Blessed travels
Thank you! You too!
Great video! I like that clean look also. You can't tell that you have solar panels on the roof. Great job!
Yes! Thank you!
Thanks for the great videos! Just curious what size mounting brackets you used initially and also on the higher ones you updated in this video? Thank you!!
The smaller ones were about 2" and the larger ones were about 3"
Ok, so, another year in ..... How is it all holding up? Still happy with the VHB tape? and problems with the install? TIA!
No issues. Holding strong after Alaska to Southern Baja and back.
I'm glad I saw this video! I saw your earlier one and was all set to do a no drill mounting of my panels but then I saw this one and you mentioned the delamination problem that I would run into with the rubber roof. I guess I'm just not feeling great about the idea of having to drill 48 holes into my roof instead of using the strut channel solution.
Yeah. The track is a great solution for multiple panels and also allows for greater flexibility down the road. Good luck!
Always good information! Thanks Brian for sharing 🤙
You bet!
Como pasaste los cables desde el techo hasta el interior de la van sin hacer rotos?
Brian, great video. Thank you for posting your diagram for download- I just got it. I’m looking at putting the sore on my fifth wheel now and have been trying to find a high power solution what’s up having solar panels everywhere. Thank you for all you’ve done
Great! Let me know if there's something missing from the diagram or equipment list. I'll try and keep it updated.
It's hilarious you just posted this, I just bought some panels and will be putting some money into my RV and was wondering how this system aged.
Funny. Great timing :) I'm hoping this lasts a long time and don't see why it wouldn't.
Do you have an idea of the total cost to do this? Thank you. Great video
Just wondering. Is the roof on your motor home a pebble grain or smooth. I want to use VHT tape but the roof on my new coach is pebble grain. In the past I used the tape on a smooth Tiffin Wayfarer roof and it stayed put after almost 3 1/2 years. Thanks in advance.
mine is smooth.
Hi Tito, great update video thank you 👍
My pleasure!
I thought about using dual lock by 3m maybe not the best idea but i would like to know how strong the stuff really is. 73
I just checked out SanTan and am overwhelmed by all the different types of solar panels. Can you make a recommendation and why you chose that brand?
I chose SunPower because I'm familiar with the cell technology and quality. I've seen them come and go from the used SanTan stock and debated on buying more. I'm not familiar with the other used inventory and their used. They do have spec sheets for their panels and also provide a one year warranty on all of their used panels. I also researched the specific panel and manufacturer to see what others said about them. Some folks have told me that Canadian Solar is a good quality and inexpensive option, but I don't have any first-hand experience with them. One recommendation is to pick them up in Arizona or Georgia if possible. You'll save a few hundred bucks in freight chargers. Good luck!
That’s great Brian I’m glad it’s working well very nice setup that sealant you were using in that bag what was it I’m curious thanks 😊
Someone recommended I try it a while back instead of Dicor. So I have been. Here it is: amzn.to/3wU5UJt It works just as well plus you get more and it stores easily for repeat applications.
What brand are those Solar panels? 12V, 24V 48V ?
They are commercial SunPower Panels at 72V
What exactly did you drill into to make it seem more secure for you? It sounds like you just drilled into 3 inches of foam board and 1/4 inch plywood?
Good job Tito love the channel. Hope to see you on the road sometime. I’m on the west coast..👍🏼
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. If you happen to see us, say hi!
Nice clean set up.
Thanks!
The next time you drive through Central Texas - hit me up (alternative motive) and help me do this to my RV. 😄😁
Do people just happen to drive through Central Texas? Just kidding :)
What was the total cost of all the DIY materials?
We need more RVs that are entirely off grid; more solar, larger battery compartments, larger propane containers, recycled water system for the grey tank (sinks, shower, washer) that reuses the water and filters it (easy cleanable filters), air to water systems that generate 5 to 10 gallons of water a day (filtered), "Cinderella Propane Incinerating Toilet or Composting Toilets (get rid of black tanks)" hot water on demand, mini-wood stoves with electric heating to reduce the massive condensation from propane heating, and more.
Sun power are doing a Maxeon 6 now tito
Nice. I heard Maxeon (the company) is selling their own panels now.
Thanks for the video! It was really informative and is exactly what I plan on doing with my smaller camper RV that i'm building.
Looks like you were in Quartzsite
Nicely done ✔️
Thanks!
Nice, Good job. You still have FREE Labor for installs. Hehe
She's available when needed :)
Great job Brian but I was expecting that from you : )
:)
Brian, don't all these roofs have some sort of framing in their ceiling, even if it's sparse? Wouldn't a screw into the framing be better (if we could figure out where it is)?
Not sure. If so I couldn't tell you where. Initially I hoped to screw into some kind of support. I believe it's the fiberglass and curve of the roof that gives it it's strength.
Great info Tito , Im a new subscriber here and enjoy how you lay out the info and back it up with great camera shots of the installs and equipment /tools needed etc. I don't think most people realize how much work goes into shooting and editing a well made video takes . I have a 2000 Monaco Diplomat that has a thin aluminum roof very similar to the construction of the Winnebago . I had 3 panels (130 watts each lol) installed maybe 12 yrs ago . They were attached with just the Z B rackets and although still in place you can PULL up on them and feel the roof move . Im thinking about upgrading the panels and patching the old holes and using the STRUT channel VHB tape . Going from AGMs 900 amp hr to at least an 800 amp hr Lithium bank . I like the battle borns but was also considering the new 330amp Victrons Lithium . Seems hard to find many reviews on Victron batteries but everyone uses all their other electronics? Thank you for well made content J. USMC
Hey there. Welcome! Don't know much about Victrons batteries. What I do know is that the BMS is a separate piece of equipment. So don't forget that piece. 👍
@@RVwithTito Sorry called you Tito , Thnx Brian
I only realised recently that the single solar panel on my motorhome has just been glued down with no drilling.
Its a 2008 model motorhome.
I wish i knew what adhesive they used.
Thanks for your video Brian always lovely to see what you guys are up to. Do you have a video on how you mounted them and how did you store the battery backups for the solar panels. I am in Auckland New Zealand living in a Cottage from Cedar Creek USA so solar panels would be really great I am stationary I cannot tow the semi-trailer around New Zealand it would need dealership plates for that
Yes. There's a series of videos for the project here: th-cam.com/play/PLIsusUNNN2JYhtQFQSPp3FkVXLXZLApM-.html
Hi Brian. What make and model is your RV? Is it Canadian built as opposed to US given that it has a fibreglass roof in stead of a rubber roof? Thank you for taking the time to make and share your videos..
It's an '03 Winnebago Adventurer. Not Canadian built as far as I know.
Thanks for the update, doing the same. appreciate your insights
What a beautiful lakeside spot! Where can I find it?
I believe that was Dease Lake in northern British Columbia.
Great information, thanks for sharing 🕊
❤l love it! Great video. I'm definitely going to try it.
Brian, another great video. It doesn’t look like you have air conditioners up on your roof. Is this so? Did you remove them? How do you deal with the heat? Looking forward to seeing your video on your other solar components especially how the Multi Plus II has performed.
The Adventurers of this era had basement A/C units.
Peter is correct. Our A/C heatpump unit is in the basement. That was a feature I really love about this rig. In case you're wondering...yes I can run the A/C with my setup. I don't even need a soft start to fire it up.
@@RVwithTito wow I didn’t know that was something they did. I wonder why there was a change to roof top units
@@stewartmhyre1528 It's great, but everyone asks..."what's that in the back?" It does limit the amount of storage space you'd have I suppose.
@@stewartmhyre1528 Coleman basement AC has two compressors, and most RV builders bolted them in not a slide out rack for repairs and cleaning and service. They are not easy to drop and repair. Also AZ Expert has shown his channel over the years they have had circuit board issues and updates. Not a lot of room to work.
What type of charge controller do you use and how many batteries should I use for a 400 watt system
Here's a DIY kit for you - www.continuousresources.com/collections/solar-kits/products/430w-kit?aff=70
I'd start with 400Ah of lithium batteries.
Why did you replace the flexible panels with these?