I hope this video of renogy flexible solar panels helps you and your decision. They both have pros and cons, so which is the right choice for you? #solar #rv #rvliving #vanlife Thank you for supporting the channel 😀👍🏼 Items in their video……. RIGID panels I recommend….. New 220 Renogy: amzn.to/3WNIDq5 Renogy 200: amzn.to/44RCUBU Rich solar 200: amzn.to/4bpkPNJ FLEXIBLE PANELS…….. Renogy 200 flexible: amzn.to/3WJBgzZ Cigs 200: amzn.to/3WIjiOs Other options…… Bougerv 200 flexible :amzn.to/3UNxuTR Tools and more….. 3M VHB Tape: amzn.to/3UOrbzf Volt meter: amzn.to/4aq6dN4 Solar panel tester: amzn.to/4aqhbC6 So Simple Off Grid/RV Power kit seen in video: Power kit discount code 11% off use code: POWER11 EcoFlow power kit: bit.ly/46k8oAp SAVE BIG ON NEW SOLAR PANELS HERE: signaturesolar.com/?ref=JWKNDS Use CODE TO SAVE: JOHNNYWKND Have a question you want answered fast: asqme.com/@johnnysweekends BUNDLE & SAVE SHOP SOLAR KITS ! shopsolarkits.com/1134 CHEAP USED CERTIFIED SOLAR PANELS HERE: www.santansolar.com/?ref=Johnnys%20Weekends SAVE BIG ON NEW SOLAR PANELS HERE: signaturesolar.com/?ref=JWKNDS CHECK OUT MY AMAZON STORE: www.amazon.com/shop/johnnysweekends
Wow...I think that's awesome. We just picked up a '23 Ram 1500 and will be getting a travel trailer at some point. I love the idea of the flexible panels since our truck has a weight limitation for towing. I'll have to do more research on this topic ! Thanks very much, it was super helpful.
@@johnnysweekends I only have one question: Why even if your not Sponsoring the meter you are use did you choose to put black electrical tape of the manufacturer’s name and it’s model number? Statement: TH-cam is about sharing usable information to your community. To me it looks like a platform for you to solely make money!
I'm all about long term reviews vs someone sharing "Its awesome" but hasn't even opened the box, let alone lived with, and logged data on the product. Thanks for sharing your real world experience and info.
I have EcoFlow 2/ 220 dual and I have to say they almost stay at 210-220 in the sun. Charges my delta 2 max and fridge/freezer , and 4 battery chargers all day at work in my van . Fridge ( Iceco) runs 24/7 .
What do other marine users succeed with? Check out boatbuilding forums (the old guys who still use forums are highly knowledgeable) etc. BTW if you need to shock/flex mount rigid panels consider Barry and similar shock mounts. You have choice of durometer and their tech support can advise on best material for your specific intended use.
Muchas gracias señor. Flexible panels reviews in wild like yours is pushing me towards having them on a class A 45 footer RV. Weight, aerodynamics and lifespan is what I'm looking for, well so does everyone else. I'm sold 😊.
This was a very useful video for me. I have an old 2001 Ford F350 mini bus and the roof has a curve. So putting flexible solar panels makes sense to me. Thank you.
I would find a way to get an air gap and some Reflectix or radiant barrier between the panel and the roof. Directly mounting black panels to the roof will heat the RV and radiate that heat right to you inside requiring more power to the air condition the inside.
It still looks good. Not much you can do about the heat soak though since they are attached directly to your roof. This is the main reason flexible panels don't last as long as rigid ones do. They should still last you 10 years or more though. When you're ready for your next upgrade, what I would do is remove both rooftop A/C units and put 2-3 more panels in their place. Then I'd put a couple super-efficient mini-splits on the back that both heat and cool - one for the front and one for the bedroom. I left my soft start equipped Furrion front rooftop A/C but removed my rear unit and replaced it with an EG-4 28.5 Seer-2 mini split heat pump that only uses about 1/3 the power as my rooftop A/C but cools just as well with almost zero noise. I racked my entire roof with 8, 550w state-of-the-art PERC panels that come with a 25 yr. warranty and only cost 51 cents/watt shipped to my door. Of course, this 4,400w array adds about 400 lbs. more to my roof than your panels do, but they produce over twice the power too. However, it's within the weight limit of my tag axle MH with no adverse handling effects. I don't worry about them getting loose or flying off as each of my rack's 18 feet have three 600 lb tensile strength toggle bolts, not screws, securing them, which are capable of withstanding a total of 32,400 lbs. of lifting force. Clearly my entire roof would rip off or the motorhome would become airborne before they blew off. A laminar airflow on your roof is important, which is why I dropped the front two panels of the array down at a shallow 9.5-degree angle to meet the roof. This reduces drag for more stability than the turbulence created by my original roof's numerous drag producing protrusions. Racking them 15" off my roof not only lowers their operating temperature for higher output, but provides a nice shade for my motorhome too, reducing the heat load on my A/C units due to all the cooling airflow underneath. I now have solar powered heating and cooling 24/7 and can run everything in my RV just like I'm plugged into a power pedestal at an RV park. BTW, I also have another 620w liftable array on the side of my MH to charge my 560ah 12v battery for all my RVs 12v power needs plus an additional 1,000 watts of inverted ac power as a back-up should I ever need it. This lets me dedicate the rooftop array to charge my 16.3 kwh, 48v battery with my Sungold Power all-in-one 48v, 5,000-watt PSW inverter, 100a charger/charge controller.
Nice setup! Unfortunately mini splits wont work well in this unit except maybe the back bed room. Front would be a night mare and not worth it. If I was a full timer then maybe. But I also wanna ditch the rubber roof and coat it. These thin rubber roofs are a joke. If I do then I redo everything and play with other stuff. But yea I expect about 10 good usable years out of these panels before major drop off. But never know. I know the 175s from renogy are still doing well and several units at 3/4 years in since they came out. Im waiting for the new heat pump Roof top ac unit!!!!
Yup so far so good. Will see what happens in a year. I really wanna coat my roof though and ditch the rubber roof liner. So fragile to tears and leaks.
Good video Mate, glad to see someone who actually "uses" the product instead of just opening a box and saying what the supplier told them to say, Only thing it would have been good to know what panels you had installed before measuring etc, I was not sure if these were 200w, 300w, 400w panels until the very end where you flashed up a 200w Renogy flexible which I assume is the panels you have ?, so I was not sure of what efficiency losses you were getting vs manufacturers ideal output, other than that great review.
The issue with the flexible panels, is the heat will kill them over time and you're transferring more of that into the RV since it makes contact with your roof. I'm glad yours are still working, but they have a history of failing. At least you chose the best of the brands of flexible panels. Renogy makes excellent products. I will say that the panel size for these is really convenient for RVs. It's so hard to find cheap panels that are the right shape for RV roofs.
When it comes to flexible panels there are several out there. But honestly only two brands maybe 3 at best should be considered. Now sure again rigid overall will be better in the long run. But if these so called 25 year warranty panels make it to 10 years at 80% that’s pretty darn good. Which again I wont have this RV in 10 years more than likely. And I also try to avoid high temps when I go places. It’s just not fun when it’s 105 outside or more and you are fighting a poorly insulted unit. Upper 90s is about it where I try to find myself. Coast and mountains a lot. But cant control the weather. If you are always in cooler climates this would be a great option. If in desserts and hot climates all the time I would push you towards a rigid setup.
@meikgeik if you are a frequent user or full time then that’s more than likely the better route. But the large units about 2 feet above on racking is definitely going to effect mileage. But you don’t get great anyway pulling big 5th wheels
We have been using thin film panels for over 4 yrs, we really have no issues with them, we use 100watt panels and they cost around $55 dollars ea, and only weigh 4 lbs ea. ours are all mounted with a 1” airgap underneath. Ours are all easily removable and when not boondocking we store them in one of the bays stacked like a deck of cards. It takes about an hour to mount on the roof and plug in, ( living in south florida we don’t boondock often, ( no place to do that), we stay at mostly campgrounds in the shade, and they all provide electric. So we figure why have them up there if not using them 90% of the year.
Thank you for so much for this technical in-depth 1 year analysis 🧐! This is the video I was looking for to decide what I want to do with my cargo trailer conversion, I’m looking at flex panels instead of the framed ones that I already have on my van 🚐 , may even replace them with flex panels! Thanks for the great information!
I went the same route on my NorthStar 850sc. I used the Yuma CIGs 200 watt (X4) 2 panels in series (50v/9a) x 2 going into a Bluetti AC200MAX. I have gotten 500 watts from 200 watt panels, trust me I was surprised too! Great video and will be doing one with mine as well. Aero + weight + performance = smart choices. Nice set up!
I thought one advantage of SIGS panels was to provide some protection/efficiency against shading, do your current panels not have this feature/efficiency advantage(?) Thanks for sharing, was looking forward to this video all year, huge Thumbs-Up/Like!
The cigs are great for shade. But again like any flex panel if you bend it especially in a convex form the output suffers. I tried it and it was just to much curve on the front to see good numbers all day. It would peak at 120 watts or so here and there and back to 80-90 after optimal angles. It was just to much curve. If it was flat it would have done great. But I didn’t have anywhere for it. Again flex panels are better when flat. Flatter the better. But over the small curves like towards the back of my rv they do ok. But I think any more than a few degrees and they just cant reach a very good max ever. I wouldn’t mind converting my whole roof to cigs to try it. But that’s a job and kinda spendy lol.
I mounted my renogy flex panels on plastic cardboard ( Home Depot PLASKOLITE) they breath great underneath them and no solar cell burn on roof. I liquid nailed them to plaskoite and mounted the plaskolite with 3m's VHB to roof. Used some dicor on front for wind to not grab under. Works perfectly. Great video and just wanted to reply on the one inch airflow comment. You get roughly 1/4 inch on the plakolite plenty of airflow .
Since renogy suggested I only use a VHB tape or sealant, I couldn’t use a sign board type material or they said that goes against the instructions and would void the warranty. How?? IDK but since they sponsored part of the build I wanted to make sure no one jumped on me for going outside install instructions. I talked to them a little after the video and gave some ideas but who knows if anything will change.
@@alaska-bornfloridaman I haven't had any issues. In the beginning I contemplated on eternabond tape across the front. But the dicor is working fine on the front. The plaskolight is firm it flexes but doesn't fold or bend . 3m's VHB is the only double sided tape I'd consider for mounting them in that fashion. Liquid nailing them to plaskolite made them firmer but still flexible ish as much as you'd want them to flex anyhow. Removing them from plaskolite is not happening but if I replace panel Liquid nail on a new piece. The plaskolite cardboard looking slots give lots of air under the hot cells. Directly mounted to tpo or rubber roof membrane as epdm has been obsoleted for the most part, the cells will burn the surface underneath without a gap,space, air breathing underneath. VHB is the strongest double sided tape I know of but will not be fun Removing when time comes to replace. Blow dryer and roll into a ball little bits at a time.... lol.
I do a lot of long-stay EV camping (BYD with a 60kW LFP battery). So I have a lot of storage and rely on 2-sided flat panels.(Yep, the back side adds to the solar charging via reflected light). Car-camping weight and size are critical. I can't wait for flat panel EV charging(1200W, next year which will get rid of my 2-3 week recharge trips to the nearest EV charger. I've seen a few car-campers carrying around heavy panels but I'll stick to the monocrystalline panels for weight and size as well. Have you considered installing/designing a solar awning like those going into the newest EV Lightship and other RVs?
There is a company with a RV awning but not in my size for my trailer. But winds can make it to where you will have to pull it in frequently depending where you are.
Great level of education! I like it, hey what would you recommend for a coachman clipper. I mean solar panel set with the whole stuff to successfully operate an rv with a lil bit of AC and basics Respectfully Chewy Ps: I recently purchased my RV this year in February
I do t know what size or how it’s configured but measure the space you have available. And maybe look at the cigs unless you wanna go rigid which are way cheaper. Find a panel you like and measure what how many you can get up there. Running ac takes a lot of battery storage. I assume it’s a smaller ac like 13.5k which only uses 1100 or less so 4000 watt hours could get you a few hours in the evening to cool it off. Which it what I’ll do frequently
I've just started RVing my roof is the same but not as long, I don't TH-cam, my plan is especially boondocking is to run a micro water line underneath the solar panels to empty my shower water and cool down the solar panels.
Question: would it be possible to wire these panels so that you could re-configure them on the fly? I could see the need based on how you park your rig. Either front to back or side to side. Just a thought. Love your videos Mate!
I mean I could but I have it situated now for what it is. If I put more in parallel I add more amps and then need different fuses and such. It just is what it is hence I still have a small generator for adding power if needed 👍🏼
Why would you lose the whole array if one panel gets shaded? That is not an issue. Bypass diodes enable bypassing a shaded panel without affecting the rest of the arrYay. Basic so,ar 101.
Umm yea no. 3 panels on one side are in series. The 3 on the other side are in series. If though they have some bypass diodes if the panel gets enough shade it will drop down to maybe 20 watts output….maybe, then it will take the other panels in that series with it. This why every build is different. That array is 3 series 2 parallel while the back in a full series array. If one panel is half shaded it would go from say 1000 watts to about 50. Much like any other panel when shaded. Only the newest panels that are split could be half shaded and still produce half power and not take out the rest of the array. If every panel was in parallel then they would act independently but that would be a bad choice because your amps would be way to high. These panels dont have micro inverters so they are still a normal string array easily taken down by one shaded panel.
Those HVAC condensers are not helping your system, for a new RV would it be better to mount them on the rear vertical of the vehicle - possibly on an extended rear fender arrangement ?
I believe hail would cover it if output went way down. I may be redoing the whole things as when I go places low trees and branches have poked a couple little holes. So I patch with eternabond tape but I may need to stripe it and do RV armor. Then it will be easily fixable. But I may set it up different. Not that it doesn’t work but more for to play with new panels coming. I want a new rail system I can swap panels on and off for testing, so trying to see what would be easiest. This setup still works, and cant get any easier and no maintenance besides checking if they are there and washing. No screws to check, no sealant to reapply and no worry if one falls or flys off that it will kill someone. Which panels flying off is becoming more common as more and more are installing solar on RVs and never checking to see if they are getting loose after traveling thousands of miles.
I want to install flexible panels. But I have seen tons of burned roof videos. I have flexible panels that I use as portable ground panels. I have laid them flat in the grass for 15 minutes and the gras nearly caught fire. What do you attribute your non-burned roof to?
You will get the same results if you take a glass panel and lay it flat on top of your grass. And it may catch fire if it’s a bi facial. But did the grass really almost catch on “fire” or did it just burn the grass turning it brown? Which is common. You can have the same results with a glass panel, a slip and slide , a blanket and more will brown the grass in the matter of a hour or two. I can give any data as to why the panel didn’t “burn” the roof. The only noticeable is a slight yellowing which is hard to see on camera. And it’s pretty slight. I would really like to ditch my rubber roof someday and do a coating on it. I hate these rubber roofs and think they should have done away with them long ago. If I get a hole then off to insurance , and I’ll rip everything off and coat it and start over. Maybe try something else. I love playing with stuff !!
@@johnnysweekends I have seen lots of dead grass under panels in an hour or so. . Thats concerning enough. But last summer when it had been dry for weeks and I laid panels on long already dead grass, it started to smolder with smoke coming around the edges of the panel. Scared to tape that to my roof
@MikeJordanUnCamplicated wow,never seen grass smolder. Yea if you have concerns then definitely dont do it. Piece of mind is always better than worrying.
I saw TH-camr who posted a video of one of his panels melting/burning under the heat of the sun and damaging his RV roof, I have been wondering if this is a one off or a possibility with these panels.
I have seen rigid panels catch fire….there are many reasons for solar panels to burn or hot spot. One coulple who I saw maybe the same video used the cheap PET panels probably from sun power which are junk. Probably a sponsored thing originally. And who knows how they were handled when installed or if they walked on them. People think they can just walk on flex panels and you shouldn’t walk on any of them. You can micro fracture the cells. Not to mention did the have the panel being used and plugged in or sitting idle and no loads. This can cause a lot of heat soak and raise panel temps. I know several using the original 175 renogy panels and now more using these 200s. Will they last 15 years..?? Who knows. all depends how they were treated and more. So many things can contribute to a burnt panel. Rigid or flexible.
I took it off because I had all the renogy and they match up so needed the room. Plus with the big downward curve up front it just wasn’t performing very good. But like mentioned in the video I didn’t think it would. But again keep flex panels as flat as possible if you can
@@johnnysweekends Just make sure it doesn't happen again :) . I actually forgot to put the emoji after it to show I was joking (well, mostly joking). I appreciate the videos and all the work you put into them.
@OFFICIALUND lol no problem 😂 It’s actually a hat I don’t wear often it was just in there. Or it was my big straw sombrero hat 😂😂 That might have been over kill lol And thanks 🙏🏼 👊🏼
Darn it.. I am watching right now as I was upset about my 200w borge rv hard panel outputs . I am only seeing 140 to 160 watts max. U happen to mention they are junk... great! What do u recommend!
I didn’t say they were junk. They are a good panel. It performed and tested really well for me and others. But on to much of a curved surface such as the front of my RV, it just wasn’t providing enough out put. But that will happen with any solar panel if you curve it hence try to get it as flat as possible. If you are getting 160 watts it that when the panel is clean? It it peak solar irradiance ? Is the temps cool outside or super hot ? All of this affects output. And a 200 watt panel doesn’t magically put out 200 watts all day all the time.
I have one of those and another overpriced name brand 200 watt panel. Yeah, 160 max, even off the roof on a clear day exactly perpendicular to the sun, at 5000 ft on a cold day. In those conditions, my 100 watt panel delivers 105 watts, and stays over 100 even a little off axis. So I’m not impressed.
The main challenge with flexible panels is the heating. I would like to know, does it transfer heat into the ceiling? Compared with rigid panels mounted above the roof surface, allowing air flow, do the flex panels transmit a lot of heat into the r v from the roof?
I fitted 4 flexible on my boat, had to scrap them after 3 years as they had become cloudy and the surface damagd from seagull poo. Now have latest hard panels, only needed half as many for the same output, and the weight has dropped to around 8kg per panel, a lot less than a few years back so is now an option.
@johnhayford5946 ahh. Yea many flex panels just didn’t last more than a couple years and now it seems we may start seeing a true 5-7 years before they start to degrade but that also depends on conditions and how they are treated plus if they are being used or not
Poor production on the curved roof. Since it’s concaved up front I was getting around 50-75 watts unless sun was pretty much over head then around 100… Even if they are flex as flat as possible is still best unless no options the. Anything is better than nothing
To be honest I think all you proved was all the original criticism. There are very few flexible panels that produce any real power. And when you compare what you can get out of residential panels you are paying 4 or 5 times more per watt! Check out Jinko 580 watt from one panel! Awesome power for under $200. I should add I get weight issue but just two or three residential panels would give you over 1000 watts. Also hot summers and heat doesn't really translate to solar power. I can get just as much in clear winter days if you have the right panels.
@@johnnysweekends Oh okay..that makes sense. In part of the video there are cables running on top of a few panels. I'm in a cargo trailer to RV conversion full time. I have 1800 watts of solar panels and 900 amp hour of lithium iron phosphate batteries. Writing from my bush lot in Quebec. My winter home is the Arizona desert, where I boondock 100% of the time.
i dont get why you even use flexible panels when you got so much almost flat space for regular panels which are way more efficient while a fraction of the cost and even longer lasting... would be a win-win-win situation :D
I can’t, already tried. Residential/commercial even if 335 watt would only allow 3-4 panels on the rear at best. With the vents and more this is a problem with a lot of RVs so most times you can only do about 3. Hence the renogy 200 rigid or the new 220s but they are bi facial so the gain is really not gonna do much of anything only 2.5 inches from the roof. Everyone’s set up is different. And I have options to get most any panel I want but again they don’t fit my setup. One off the back area they don’t fit anywhere and gives me at most 1200 watts roughly. So far these are doing very well for what I need and no weight or maintenance. No checking sealant, no checking screws. Nothing just go. I’m on my roof normally once a month unless it doesn’t move then about every 3, checking the panels or holes from what ever, branches, flying rocks, birds, who knows.
@Heinz76Harald yea I already tried and measured and it just wasn’t gonna happen unless I did 3 residential type and then another array with smaller panels or the flex but then it would have been to many panels on the next input
This comment adds no value…. What burned up? What model Panel? What type of wire and controllers and connectors? Where was it installed Who installed it?
You are seriously risking a fire up on your roof. I strongly recommend removing those panels and redoing the whole thing. That thermal imaging camera is just showing confirmation... those temps are way too hot all around and there was more than one hot spot. Flexible solar panels are just not designed for that kind of abuse. You also have major wiring issues up there. * All of your cabling and MC4 connectors are exposed to the sun and the hot roof. That is not a good idea. You are risking an ARC-gap fire as the sun makes the MC4 plastic brittle (particularly the retention tabs that hold the MC4s together). That much sun will destroy the MC4's environmental sealing as well. * The panels are exposed to extreme heat. This not only vastly reduces panel efficiency, it also vastly reduces the life-span of the materials making up those panels and the cells themselves will start to develop micro-cracking and begin to short. * Flexible panels in general can't stand up to the elements for very long compared to hard-framed panels. It isn't even close. The brand doesn't matter. It's plastic verses glass and aluminum. Again, you are risking an ARC-gap fire as the cells degrade from the abuse. * Hard-framed panels with an air gap have many advantages, not just in terms of fire hazard, but also simply in terms of the amount of heat transmitted through the roof into the cabin. A hard-framed panel will be vastly more efficient. You spent a lot of time downplaying the differences between flexible and hard panels in terms of temps, but that just isn't reality. While it is certainly possible for a hard-framed panel to get just as hot, flexible panels are going to be hot pretty much all the time whereas hard-framed panels will not. The vast majority of the time, hard-framed panels with an air-gap will be far, far cooler. Flexible panels are far more fire-prone in a directly-on-roof configuration. People have only been using them a few years and it is already obvious that it is a seriously bad idea. In anycase. I strongly recommending you rip out the whole thing and chuck the panels into the trash-can. Use hard-framed panels, leave an air-gap, put the wiring underneath the panels, don't expose cabling directly to the sun (outdoor ratings != extended periods of hot direct sun). -Matt
Matt several good points and I dont think I have down played anything but maybe didn’t go in depth as there is tons of info when it comes to PV components and more. *All cabling and connectors are UV solar rated, which they say serves a 25yr life span in outdoor environments, direct sun included. I don’t believe that but 15 years should be acceptable. I am on my roof regularly inspecting the panels and wires to monitor the setup. One for myself and viewers who want updated info. MC4 connectors also have a very high temp rating. Up to 194F outside temp and higher for inside connector temp. I have never seen temps even remotely close to that. One I try to keep my amps lower. I also feel 303 UV protectant may help keep the wires and cables extend there life. And maybe even the panels but i dont know if the panels suffer from the protectant being applied and total output. * All panels are exposed to extreme heat, even in the dessert which suffer even higher temps for longer periods of time. Now I did do a comparison of a rigid panel on my roof and a flex and did temp readings but nothing recorded. But maybe it would be a good video and I could try a couple different scenarios for fun. But good info. * Yes heat reduces output. Glass or flex, but I have never disputed that rigid do perform better. Pros and cons to all. Do mine suffer in the extreme heat? Oh yea but I also advise people whole live in extremes such as the temps I see to look into rigid. Unless its short durations. But in normal temps so far these have been performing well along with others im in contact with who run the older 175 for over 3 years and also using 200s as well. * Every build is different, if someone asks me about there build I advise them about options, and what would be better for their build. If you are a long term and full timer in a rv then rigid is a better option. For weekend warriors and people who are looking for shorter term options then these offer a solution. If they are not comfortable with solar and being on a roof constantly which you have to anyway if you use your rv, “hole inspections” then an installer should be used. *While I see cheap flex panels having failures which when you buy the cheapest I can see why. But the renogy have a very good track record. Many using them, direct on the roof. * I have seen fires from way more rigid panels than flex, but because the obvious of more installs and more diy stuff and people tend to set and forget. But also some of the old rigid were also junk. I do appreciate the comments and discussion. And I will bring more info as it comes. Because I dont mind being a test pilot for stuff. That is what my RV is for. And no one else is bringing this much info so I guess I will. The only reason if I change anytime soon is all dependent on how many holes I get in my roof. I already had a couple pin holes from trees at certain locations but eternabond and im on my way. But I dont like that either nor do I like the rubber roof. Hate the fact they are even still doing that verses a RV Armor of some type. Which Im looking into. And with the holes already insurance could possibly cover a roof replacement or the armor coating. Or I’ll just do it. Rubber roofs are old tech waiting to hide water leaks. -Johnny
@@johnnysweekends You can bond rails to the roof, and then mount the panels on the rails. The rails offer a very large bonding area verses trying to drill mounts directly into the roof. People are doing lots of no-drill / minimal-drill mounts these days. Nor do hard panels really have to be too far off the roof. There needs to be air-flow, but there doesn't need to be huge amounts of air-flow so people do air-dam the front. The panels overhang the rails so air-flow basically goes under the panel and then up and over the rail on the long-side. Hard panels are not nearly as fire-prone as you make them out to be, particularly not compared to flexible panels. Generally speaking, though, it is hard to get statistics because it isn't really a distinction made in accident investigations. In anycase, I think you are going to find out in the next year or two just how bad an idea it was. The only question is whether the experiment will end with you ripping the panels off the roof before the it burns, or after it burns. -Matt
@junkerzn7312 for sure many ways to mount. I have done a couple on other RVs as well. There are new mounts all the time but I do like rail setups if you can utilize for your Rv. As far as burning goes, well so far one year down and really no difference from the roof with no panel to what was under one of the panels I moved. Will they burn up… I guess we wait and see. May never find out if I have to recover my roof which that may be likely soon. Will see.
The idea of keeping “solar” panels cool is kinda silly. You’re NOT going to be able to keep something that sits in the sun cool. I’ll admit that putting solar panels directly on the roof isn’t going to help you in any way. A layer would help with ventilation somewhat, but not dramatically. I’m going to use two flexible panels on my boat and two rigid. Solar production will never be great on my boat because a the rigid placement of the panels. The two flexible panels is just because of how I’ll be able to install them compared to how I would have to install rigid panels in the same space. Maybe eventually I will put a rigid, but with flexible panels becoming better and better, maybe I’ll just go completely flexible. Rigids are the only way to go for a permanent solution, not so much for something in the vehicle category.
Flexible like rigid have pros and cons. Rigid is the standard for residential and more. RVs and boats there are a ton of options to fit anyone’s needs. And honestly rigid is kinda boring I like testing the new stuff as it gets better and better. Plus again if it flys of I don’t feel so bad as more and more are flying off as people are adding solar to RVs at fast rates. And people don’t like maintenance. Like sealing and checking screws that wiggle loose on a show box wiggling down the road. So a couple two or 3 years later…. Lift off lol Needs to be checked regularly
@@johnnysweekends NOTHING is maintenance free, it’s a myth that manufacturers came up with to make their product(s) “seem” better than the other guys. It’s a made up word.
The very best advice was if one came off on the road . Seriously, how would you feel if someone got killed, not to mention your insurance company is most likely going to fight you and you get sued
Trailer wings on semis are junk. When I drove for Prime, they were really adamant about us using them because they fell for the same marketing snake oil you are preaching. I spent 10 months monitoring my fuel usage while using them and not using them and not ONCE did it ever even SLIGHTLY affect MPG. I'm not the only one that was doing it and not a single one of us were able to see a single benefit to using them. It's marketing bs.
I hope this video of renogy flexible solar panels helps you and your decision. They both have pros and cons, so which is the right choice for you? #solar #rv #rvliving #vanlife
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Items in their video…….
RIGID panels I recommend…..
New 220 Renogy: amzn.to/3WNIDq5
Renogy 200: amzn.to/44RCUBU
Rich solar 200: amzn.to/4bpkPNJ
FLEXIBLE PANELS……..
Renogy 200 flexible: amzn.to/3WJBgzZ
Cigs 200: amzn.to/3WIjiOs
Other options……
Bougerv 200 flexible :amzn.to/3UNxuTR
Tools and more…..
3M VHB Tape: amzn.to/3UOrbzf
Volt meter: amzn.to/4aq6dN4
Solar panel tester: amzn.to/4aqhbC6
So Simple Off Grid/RV Power kit seen in video: Power kit discount code
11% off use code: POWER11
EcoFlow power kit: bit.ly/46k8oAp
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Wow...I think that's awesome. We just picked up a '23 Ram 1500 and will be getting a travel trailer at some point. I love the idea of the flexible panels since our truck has a weight limitation for towing. I'll have to do more research on this topic ! Thanks very much, it was super helpful.
@@johnnysweekends I only have one question: Why even if your not Sponsoring the meter you are use did you choose to put black electrical tape of the manufacturer’s name and it’s model number? Statement: TH-cam is about sharing usable information to your community. To me it looks like a platform for you to solely make money!
I'm all about long term reviews vs someone sharing "Its awesome" but hasn't even opened the box, let alone lived with, and logged data on the product. Thanks for sharing your real world experience and info.
Thanks 😀👊🏼👍🏼
Today, the panels available are better than years ago. Flexible panels are higher output and better than before.
I have EcoFlow 2/ 220 dual and I have to say they almost stay at 210-220 in the sun. Charges my delta 2 max and fridge/freezer , and 4 battery chargers all day at work in my van . Fridge ( Iceco) runs 24/7 .
I'm interested for marine use, where heavy flat rigid panels simply wouldn't work, so this is really helpful.
What do other marine users succeed with? Check out boatbuilding forums (the old guys who still use forums are highly knowledgeable) etc.
BTW if you need to shock/flex mount rigid panels consider Barry and similar shock mounts. You have choice of durometer and their tech support can advise on best material for your specific intended use.
Muchas gracias señor. Flexible panels reviews in wild like yours is pushing me towards having them on a class A 45 footer RV.
Weight, aerodynamics and lifespan is what I'm looking for, well so does everyone else. I'm sold 😊.
This was a very useful video for me. I have an old 2001 Ford F350 mini bus and the roof has a curve. So putting flexible solar panels makes sense to me. Thank you.
I would find a way to get an air gap and some Reflectix or radiant barrier between the panel and the roof. Directly mounting black panels to the roof will heat the RV and radiate that heat right to you inside requiring more power to the air condition the inside.
It still looks good. Not much you can do about the heat soak though since they are attached directly to your roof. This is the main reason flexible panels don't last as long as rigid ones do. They should still last you 10 years or more though. When you're ready for your next upgrade, what I would do is remove both rooftop A/C units and put 2-3 more panels in their place. Then I'd put a couple super-efficient mini-splits on the back that both heat and cool - one for the front and one for the bedroom. I left my soft start equipped Furrion front rooftop A/C but removed my rear unit and replaced it with an EG-4 28.5 Seer-2 mini split heat pump that only uses about 1/3 the power as my rooftop A/C but cools just as well with almost zero noise.
I racked my entire roof with 8, 550w state-of-the-art PERC panels that come with a 25 yr. warranty and only cost 51 cents/watt shipped to my door. Of course, this 4,400w array adds about 400 lbs. more to my roof than your panels do, but they produce over twice the power too. However, it's within the weight limit of my tag axle MH with no adverse handling effects. I don't worry about them getting loose or flying off as each of my rack's 18 feet have three 600 lb tensile strength toggle bolts, not screws, securing them, which are capable of withstanding a total of 32,400 lbs. of lifting force. Clearly my entire roof would rip off or the motorhome would become airborne before they blew off. A laminar airflow on your roof is important, which is why I dropped the front two panels of the array down at a shallow 9.5-degree angle to meet the roof. This reduces drag for more stability than the turbulence created by my original roof's numerous drag producing protrusions. Racking them 15" off my roof not only lowers their operating temperature for higher output, but provides a nice shade for my motorhome too, reducing the heat load on my A/C units due to all the cooling airflow underneath.
I now have solar powered heating and cooling 24/7 and can run everything in my RV just like I'm plugged into a power pedestal at an RV park. BTW, I also have another 620w liftable array on the side of my MH to charge my 560ah 12v battery for all my RVs 12v power needs plus an additional 1,000 watts of inverted ac power as a back-up should I ever need it. This lets me dedicate the rooftop array to charge my 16.3 kwh, 48v battery with my Sungold Power all-in-one 48v, 5,000-watt PSW inverter, 100a charger/charge controller.
Nice setup! Unfortunately mini splits wont work well in this unit except maybe the back bed room. Front would be a night mare and not worth it. If I was a full timer then maybe. But I also wanna ditch the rubber roof and coat it. These thin rubber roofs are a joke. If I do then I redo everything and play with other stuff. But yea I expect about 10 good usable years out of these panels before major drop off.
But never know. I know the 175s from renogy are still doing well and several units at 3/4 years in since they came out.
Im waiting for the new heat pump Roof top ac unit!!!!
Yes, good video and it does give me something to think about. Rethinking rooftop install.
👍🏼😀
Really interesting data Johnny. Good to see these held up so far.
Yup so far so good. Will see what happens in a year. I really wanna coat my roof though and ditch the rubber roof liner. So fragile to tears and leaks.
Good video Mate, glad to see someone who actually "uses" the product instead of just opening a box and saying what the supplier told them to say, Only thing it would have been good to know what panels you had installed before measuring etc, I was not sure if these were 200w, 300w, 400w panels until the very end where you flashed up a 200w Renogy flexible which I assume is the panels you have ?, so I was not sure of what efficiency losses you were getting vs manufacturers ideal output, other than that great review.
I’ll try to make that more clear. I guess i thought I stayed the type early on..🤔 oops.
And yes, I actually use a lot of the products I review..👍🏼👊🏼
Thanks for a real-life comparison. Made sense!
😀👍🏼
The issue with the flexible panels, is the heat will kill them over time and you're transferring more of that into the RV since it makes contact with your roof. I'm glad yours are still working, but they have a history of failing. At least you chose the best of the brands of flexible panels. Renogy makes excellent products. I will say that the panel size for these is really convenient for RVs. It's so hard to find cheap panels that are the right shape for RV roofs.
When it comes to flexible panels there are several out there. But honestly only two brands maybe 3 at best should be considered.
Now sure again rigid overall will be better in the long run. But if these so called 25 year warranty panels make it to 10 years at 80% that’s pretty darn good. Which again I wont have this RV in 10 years more than likely. And I also try to avoid high temps when I go places. It’s just not fun when it’s 105 outside or more and you are fighting a poorly insulted unit. Upper 90s is about it where I try to find myself. Coast and mountains a lot. But cant control the weather.
If you are always in cooler climates this would be a great option. If in desserts and hot climates all the time I would push you towards a rigid setup.
@@johnnysweekends Glad they work for you. I live in Nevada, so I'm building a solar deck raised off the roof of our RV to keep the heat off!
@meikgeik if you are a frequent user or full time then that’s more than likely the better route. But the large units about 2 feet above on racking is definitely going to effect mileage.
But you don’t get great anyway pulling big 5th wheels
We have been using thin film panels for over 4 yrs, we really have no issues with them, we use 100watt panels and they cost around $55 dollars ea, and only weigh 4 lbs ea. ours are all mounted with a 1” airgap underneath. Ours are all easily removable and when not boondocking we store them in one of the bays stacked like a deck of cards. It takes about an hour to mount on the roof and plug in, ( living in south florida we don’t boondock often, ( no place to do that), we stay at mostly campgrounds in the shade, and they all provide electric. So we figure why have them up there if not using them 90% of the year.
@mrfusioneng nice idea, will last much longer. Im doing hard core testing!! To the death! 😂👍🏼
Thank you for so much for this technical in-depth 1 year analysis 🧐! This is the video I was looking for to decide what I want to do with my cargo trailer conversion, I’m looking at flex panels instead of the framed ones that I already have on my van 🚐 , may even replace them with flex panels!
Thanks for the great information!
I went the same route on my NorthStar 850sc. I used the Yuma CIGs 200 watt (X4) 2 panels in series (50v/9a) x 2 going into a Bluetti AC200MAX. I have gotten 500 watts from 200 watt panels, trust me I was surprised too! Great video and will be doing one with mine as well. Aero + weight + performance = smart choices. Nice set up!
Nice!! 👍🏼😀
I thought one advantage of SIGS panels was to provide some protection/efficiency against shading, do your current panels not have this feature/efficiency advantage(?) Thanks for sharing, was looking forward to this video all year, huge Thumbs-Up/Like!
The cigs are great for shade. But again like any flex panel if you bend it especially in a convex form the output suffers. I tried it and it was just to much curve on the front to see good numbers all day. It would peak at 120 watts or so here and there and back to 80-90 after optimal angles. It was just to much curve. If it was flat it would have done great. But I didn’t have anywhere for it. Again flex panels are better when flat. Flatter the better. But over the small curves like towards the back of my rv they do ok. But I think any more than a few degrees and they just cant reach a very good max ever.
I wouldn’t mind converting my whole roof to cigs to try it. But that’s a job and kinda spendy lol.
With the solid panels, there's a one inch gap between the roof and the panel that allows for air flow, so it won't be near as hot as flat.
A rigid panels surface temp can still get extremely hot, just as hot as a flex. But, the heat transfer situation is definitely different. 👍🏼
I mounted my renogy flex panels on plastic cardboard ( Home Depot PLASKOLITE) they breath great underneath them and no solar cell burn on roof. I liquid nailed them to plaskoite and mounted the plaskolite with 3m's VHB to roof. Used some dicor on front for wind to not grab under. Works perfectly. Great video and just wanted to reply on the one inch airflow comment. You get roughly 1/4 inch on the plakolite plenty of airflow .
@@stevebates3573
That seems like it'd be awfully flimsy at 70 mph. Does it hold up?
Since renogy suggested I only use a VHB tape or sealant, I couldn’t use a sign board type material or they said that goes against the instructions and would void the warranty. How?? IDK but since they sponsored part of the build I wanted to make sure no one jumped on me for going outside install instructions. I talked to them a little after the video and gave some ideas but who knows if anything will change.
@@alaska-bornfloridaman I haven't had any issues. In the beginning I contemplated on eternabond tape across the front. But the dicor is working fine on the front. The plaskolight is firm it flexes but doesn't fold or bend . 3m's VHB is the only double sided tape I'd consider for mounting them in that fashion. Liquid nailing them to plaskolite made them firmer but still flexible ish as much as you'd want them to flex anyhow. Removing them from plaskolite is not happening but if I replace panel Liquid nail on a new piece. The plaskolite cardboard looking slots give lots of air under the hot cells. Directly mounted to tpo or rubber roof membrane as epdm has been obsoleted for the most part, the cells will burn the surface underneath without a gap,space, air breathing underneath. VHB is the strongest double sided tape I know of but will not be fun Removing when time comes to replace. Blow dryer and roll into a ball little bits at a time.... lol.
The benefits of ridge panels in addition for the better performance is longevity and reduce heat inside the RV. Ridge panels also cost less per watt.
Thanks Mate 🙏
Great Video 👌
I do a lot of long-stay EV camping (BYD with a 60kW LFP battery). So I have a lot of storage and rely on 2-sided flat panels.(Yep, the back side adds to the solar charging via reflected light). Car-camping weight and size are critical. I can't wait for flat panel EV charging(1200W, next year which will get rid of my 2-3 week recharge trips to the nearest EV charger. I've seen a few car-campers carrying around heavy panels but I'll stick to the monocrystalline panels for weight and size as well. Have you considered installing/designing a solar awning like those going into the newest EV Lightship and other RVs?
There is a company with a RV awning but not in my size for my trailer. But winds can make it to where you will have to pull it in frequently depending where you are.
I just bought one of these for my RV. Do you have a video on how you installed them on the roof?
Yes !! Here RV Solar Install Easy DIY Renogy 200 watt Flexible solar Panels
th-cam.com/video/2YOdN8f0u2Q/w-d-xo.html
@@johnnysweekends sweet!
Great level of education! I like it, hey what would you recommend for a coachman clipper. I mean solar panel set with the whole stuff to successfully operate an rv with a lil bit of AC and basics
Respectfully Chewy
Ps: I recently purchased my RV this year in February
I do t know what size or how it’s configured but measure the space you have available. And maybe look at the cigs unless you wanna go rigid which are way cheaper.
Find a panel you like and measure what how many you can get up there.
Running ac takes a lot of battery storage. I assume it’s a smaller ac like 13.5k which only uses 1100 or less so 4000 watt hours could get you a few hours in the evening to cool it off. Which it what I’ll do frequently
I've just started RVing my roof is the same but not as long, I don't TH-cam, my plan is especially boondocking is to run a micro water line underneath the solar panels to empty my shower water and cool down the solar panels.
That will be an interesting idea. Just dont do that in state parks. If a ranger gets a little noisy lol
Question: would it be possible to wire these panels so that you could re-configure them on the fly? I could see the need based on how you park your rig. Either front to back or side to side. Just a thought. Love your videos Mate!
I mean I could but I have it situated now for what it is. If I put more in parallel I add more amps and then need different fuses and such.
It just is what it is hence I still have a small generator for adding power if needed 👍🏼
I may have missed it but could you share how you've secured the panels please? @johnnysweekends Many thanks and Thanks for the video.
Here ya go..RV Solar Install Easy DIY Renogy 200 watt Flexible solar Panels
th-cam.com/video/2YOdN8f0u2Q/w-d-xo.html
Thankyou!
Why would you lose the whole array if one panel gets shaded? That is not an issue. Bypass diodes enable bypassing a shaded panel without affecting the rest of the arrYay. Basic so,ar 101.
Umm yea no.
3 panels on one side are in series. The 3 on the other side are in series. If though they have some bypass diodes if the panel gets enough shade it will drop down to maybe 20 watts output….maybe, then it will take the other panels in that series with it.
This why every build is different. That array is 3 series 2 parallel while the back in a full series array. If one panel is half shaded it would go from say 1000 watts to about 50.
Much like any other panel when shaded. Only the newest panels that are split could be half shaded and still produce half power and not take out the rest of the array.
If every panel was in parallel then they would act independently but that would be a bad choice because your amps would be way to high.
These panels dont have micro inverters so they are still a normal string array easily taken down by one shaded panel.
Those HVAC condensers are not helping your system, for a new RV would it be better to mount them on the rear vertical of the vehicle - possibly on an extended rear fender arrangement ?
No way to do that with these units.
Are you using the Delta pro 3? I'm curious because your app looks different than mine for the Delta pro 1
Would you have the same set up today if you had to replace? Does your insurance cover damage because of a hail storm?
I believe hail would cover it if output went way down. I may be redoing the whole things as when I go places low trees and branches have poked a couple little holes. So I patch with eternabond tape but I may need to stripe it and do RV armor. Then it will be easily fixable. But I may set it up different. Not that it doesn’t work but more for to play with new panels coming. I want a new rail system I can swap panels on and off for testing, so trying to see what would be easiest.
This setup still works, and cant get any easier and no maintenance besides checking if they are there and washing. No screws to check, no sealant to reapply and no worry if one falls or flys off that it will kill someone.
Which panels flying off is becoming more common as more and more are installing solar on RVs and never checking to see if they are getting loose after traveling thousands of miles.
Great video brother. Thank you
😀👍🏼
Do you have a video on how you installed them? Spray adhesive? You have a TPU roof?
Yes RV Solar Install Easy DIY Renogy 200 watt Flexible solar Panels
th-cam.com/video/2YOdN8f0u2Q/w-d-xo.html
I want to install flexible panels. But I have seen tons of burned roof videos. I have flexible panels that I use as portable ground panels. I have laid them flat in the grass for 15 minutes and the gras nearly caught fire. What do you attribute your non-burned roof to?
You will get the same results if you take a glass panel and lay it flat on top of your grass. And it may catch fire if it’s a bi facial. But did the grass really almost catch on “fire” or did it just burn the grass turning it brown? Which is common. You can have the same results with a glass panel, a slip and slide , a blanket and more will brown the grass in the matter of a hour or two.
I can give any data as to why the panel didn’t “burn” the roof. The only noticeable is a slight yellowing which is hard to see on camera. And it’s pretty slight.
I would really like to ditch my rubber roof someday and do a coating on it. I hate these rubber roofs and think they should have done away with them long ago.
If I get a hole then off to insurance , and I’ll rip everything off and coat it and start over. Maybe try something else. I love playing with stuff !!
@@johnnysweekends I have seen lots of dead grass under panels in an hour or so. . Thats concerning enough. But last summer when it had been dry for weeks and I laid panels on long already dead grass, it started to smolder with smoke coming around the edges of the panel. Scared to tape that to my roof
@MikeJordanUnCamplicated wow,never seen grass smolder. Yea if you have concerns then definitely dont do it. Piece of mind is always better than worrying.
I saw TH-camr who posted a video of one of his panels melting/burning under the heat of the sun and damaging his RV roof, I have been wondering if this is a one off or a possibility with these panels.
I have seen rigid panels catch fire….there are many reasons for solar panels to burn or hot spot. One coulple who I saw maybe the same video used the cheap PET panels probably from sun power which are junk. Probably a sponsored thing originally. And who knows how they were handled when installed or if they walked on them. People think they can just walk on flex panels and you shouldn’t walk on any of them. You can micro fracture the cells. Not to mention did the have the panel being used and plugged in or sitting idle and no loads. This can cause a lot of heat soak and raise panel temps.
I know several using the original 175 renogy panels and now more using these 200s. Will they last 15 years..?? Who knows. all depends how they were treated and more. So many things can contribute to a burnt panel. Rigid or flexible.
Those are very good points, hard to decide but I guess it all depends on preference and cost.
@rvnut1133 all in what works for you better. Ill do another update if anything changes
Great video thank you
👍🏼😀
I just bought cigs for my van. Should I return? Why did you remove yours? Thx
I took it off because I had all the renogy and they match up so needed the room.
Plus with the big downward curve up front it just wasn’t performing very good. But like mentioned in the video I didn’t think it would. But again keep flex panels as flat as possible if you can
What charge controller are you using? How are the panels mounted? Adhesive? Someone in town had some come off their Sprinter van.
Ecoflow’s 15kw power kit asks vhb double sided tape. You can also watch the install video if you like
Great video mate really informative 👍 sub btw
Thanks 👊🏼😀
Thanks, though 5- or 10-year results would be about the minimum for a real-world comparison with standard mono panel durability in performance.
Most people will sell there RV by then. People dont keep things like they used to
Output fell after that plane flew on your head with the Chemtrail..
What is absolutely a mistake is the flat-billed hat.
Considering I was up at 4:45am and started shooting that at 5:30 the hat worked great to hide my tired eyes 😂.
@@johnnysweekends Just make sure it doesn't happen again :) . I actually forgot to put the emoji after it to show I was joking (well, mostly joking). I appreciate the videos and all the work you put into them.
@OFFICIALUND lol no problem 😂
It’s actually a hat I don’t wear often it was just in there. Or it was my big straw sombrero hat 😂😂
That might have been over kill lol
And thanks 🙏🏼 👊🏼
Darn it.. I am watching right now as I was upset about my 200w borge rv hard panel outputs . I am only seeing 140 to 160 watts max. U happen to mention they are junk... great! What do u recommend!
I didn’t say they were junk. They are a good panel. It performed and tested really well for me and others. But on to much of a curved surface such as the front of my RV, it just wasn’t providing enough out put.
But that will happen with any solar panel if you curve it hence try to get it as flat as possible.
If you are getting 160 watts it that when the panel is clean? It it peak solar irradiance ? Is the temps cool outside or super hot ?
All of this affects output. And a 200 watt panel doesn’t magically put out 200 watts all day all the time.
I have one of those and another overpriced name brand 200 watt panel. Yeah, 160 max, even off the roof on a clear day exactly perpendicular to the sun, at 5000 ft on a cold day. In those conditions, my 100 watt panel delivers 105 watts, and stays over 100 even a little off axis. So I’m not impressed.
how are they attached to the roof?
The main challenge with flexible panels is the heating. I would like to know, does it transfer heat into the ceiling?
Compared with rigid panels mounted above the roof surface, allowing air flow, do the flex panels transmit a lot of heat into the r v from the roof?
That haze from the chemtrails will make about a 10- 20-watt loss. This happens to me just about every day we have full sun
Definitely will! 👍🏼
I'm glad I have electricity 🔌
Sounds like you're in or around Redding
🤫🤫😂😉
I fitted 4 flexible on my boat, had to scrap them after 3 years as they had become cloudy and the surface damagd from seagull poo.
Now have latest hard panels, only needed half as many for the same output, and the weight has dropped to around 8kg per panel, a lot less than a few years back so is now an option.
Do you remember the brand and watts of the panels you had? Gopower or?
Sea life is hard on everything
@@johnnysweekends Yep, found the invoice, they were 80W Lucis TPT A Series, purchased beginning 2020.
@johnhayford5946 ahh. Yea many flex panels just didn’t last more than a couple years and now it seems we may start seeing a true 5-7 years before they start to degrade but that also depends on conditions and how they are treated plus if they are being used or not
Why did you remove the CIGS... 👀?
Poor production on the curved roof. Since it’s concaved up front I was getting around 50-75 watts unless sun was pretty much over head then around 100…
Even if they are flex as flat as possible is still best unless no options the. Anything is better than nothing
Right on JW
Thanks Mike 👊🏼😀
To be honest I think all you proved was all the original criticism. There are very few flexible panels that produce any real power. And when you compare what you can get out of residential panels you are paying 4 or 5 times more per watt! Check out Jinko 580 watt from one panel! Awesome power for under $200.
I should add I get weight issue but just two or three residential panels would give you over 1000 watts. Also hot summers and heat doesn't really translate to solar power. I can get just as much in clear winter days if you have the right panels.
Why do you have cables running on top of the solar panels?
There are no cables on top of the panels…
Unless they were disconnected and I was testing
@@johnnysweekends Oh okay..that makes sense. In part of the video there are cables running on top of a few panels.
I'm in a cargo trailer to RV conversion full time. I have 1800 watts of solar panels and 900 amp hour of lithium iron phosphate batteries. Writing from my bush lot in Quebec. My winter home is the Arizona desert, where I boondock 100% of the time.
i dont get why you even use flexible panels when you got so much almost flat space for regular panels which are way more efficient while a fraction of the cost and even longer lasting... would be a win-win-win situation :D
I can’t, already tried. Residential/commercial even if 335 watt would only allow 3-4 panels on the rear at best.
With the vents and more this is a problem with a lot of RVs so most times you can only do about 3.
Hence the renogy 200 rigid or the new 220s but they are bi facial so the gain is really not gonna do much of anything only 2.5 inches from the roof.
Everyone’s set up is different. And I have options to get most any panel I want but again they don’t fit my setup. One off the back area they don’t fit anywhere and gives me at most 1200 watts roughly.
So far these are doing very well for what I need and no weight or maintenance. No checking sealant, no checking screws. Nothing just go.
I’m on my roof normally once a month unless it doesn’t move then about every 3, checking the panels or holes from what ever, branches, flying rocks, birds, who knows.
@@johnnysweekends so you can just fit 3 regular sized framepanels. ok thats a pity, because the vents are blocking, i see. oh well
@Heinz76Harald yea I already tried and measured and it just wasn’t gonna happen unless I did 3 residential type and then another array with smaller panels or the flex but then it would have been to many panels on the next input
I TRIED THIS AND THEY DIDN'T LAST THE CONTROL BOXES BURNED UP I HAD WIRES BURN UP AFTER 6 MONTHS,
This comment adds no value….
What burned up?
What model Panel?
What type of wire and controllers and connectors?
Where was it installed
Who installed it?
The micro pump will be solar panel.
You are seriously risking a fire up on your roof. I strongly recommend removing those panels and redoing the whole thing. That thermal imaging camera is just showing confirmation... those temps are way too hot all around and there was more than one hot spot. Flexible solar panels are just not designed for that kind of abuse. You also have major wiring issues up there.
* All of your cabling and MC4 connectors are exposed to the sun and the hot roof. That is not a good idea. You are risking an ARC-gap fire as the sun makes the MC4 plastic brittle (particularly the retention tabs that hold the MC4s together). That much sun will destroy the MC4's environmental sealing as well.
* The panels are exposed to extreme heat. This not only vastly reduces panel efficiency, it also vastly reduces the life-span of the materials making up those panels and the cells themselves will start to develop micro-cracking and begin to short.
* Flexible panels in general can't stand up to the elements for very long compared to hard-framed panels. It isn't even close. The brand doesn't matter. It's plastic verses glass and aluminum. Again, you are risking an ARC-gap fire as the cells degrade from the abuse.
* Hard-framed panels with an air gap have many advantages, not just in terms of fire hazard, but also simply in terms of the amount of heat transmitted through the roof into the cabin. A hard-framed panel will be vastly more efficient.
You spent a lot of time downplaying the differences between flexible and hard panels in terms of temps, but that just isn't reality. While it is certainly possible for a hard-framed panel to get just as hot, flexible panels are going to be hot pretty much all the time whereas hard-framed panels will not. The vast majority of the time, hard-framed panels with an air-gap will be far, far cooler. Flexible panels are far more fire-prone in a directly-on-roof configuration. People have only been using them a few years and it is already obvious that it is a seriously bad idea.
In anycase. I strongly recommending you rip out the whole thing and chuck the panels into the trash-can. Use hard-framed panels, leave an air-gap, put the wiring underneath the panels, don't expose cabling directly to the sun (outdoor ratings != extended periods of hot direct sun).
-Matt
Matt several good points and I dont think I have down played anything but maybe didn’t go in depth as there is tons of info when it comes to PV components and more.
*All cabling and connectors are UV solar rated, which they say serves a 25yr life span in outdoor environments, direct sun included. I don’t believe that but 15 years should be acceptable. I am on my roof regularly inspecting the panels and wires to monitor the setup. One for myself and viewers who want updated info. MC4 connectors also have a very high temp rating. Up to 194F outside temp and higher for inside connector temp. I have never seen temps even remotely close to that. One I try to keep my amps lower.
I also feel 303 UV protectant may help keep the wires and cables extend there life. And maybe even the panels but i dont know if the panels suffer from the protectant being applied and total output.
* All panels are exposed to extreme heat, even in the dessert which suffer even higher temps for longer periods of time. Now I did do a comparison of a rigid panel on my roof and a flex and did temp readings but nothing recorded. But maybe it would be a good video and I could try a couple different scenarios for fun. But good info.
* Yes heat reduces output. Glass or flex, but I have never disputed that rigid do perform better. Pros and cons to all. Do mine suffer in the extreme heat? Oh yea but I also advise people whole live in extremes such as the temps I see to look into rigid. Unless its short durations. But in normal temps so far these have been performing well along with others im in contact with who run the older 175 for over 3 years and also using 200s as well.
* Every build is different, if someone asks me about there build I advise them about options, and what would be better for their build. If you are a long term and full timer in a rv then rigid is a better option. For weekend warriors and people who are looking for shorter term options then these offer a solution. If they are not comfortable with solar and being on a roof constantly which you have to anyway if you use your rv, “hole inspections” then an installer should be used.
*While I see cheap flex panels having failures which when you buy the cheapest I can see why. But the renogy have a very good track record. Many using them, direct on the roof.
* I have seen fires from way more rigid panels than flex, but because the obvious of more installs and more diy stuff and people tend to set and forget. But also some of the old rigid were also junk.
I do appreciate the comments and discussion. And I will bring more info as it comes. Because I dont mind being a test pilot for stuff. That is what my RV is for. And no one else is bringing this much info so I guess I will.
The only reason if I change anytime soon is all dependent on how many holes I get in my roof. I already had a couple pin holes from trees at certain locations but eternabond and im on my way. But I dont like that either nor do I like the rubber roof. Hate the fact they are even still doing that verses a RV Armor of some type. Which Im looking into. And with the holes already insurance could possibly cover a roof replacement or the armor coating. Or I’ll just do it. Rubber roofs are old tech waiting to hide water leaks.
-Johnny
@@johnnysweekends You can bond rails to the roof, and then mount the panels on the rails. The rails offer a very large bonding area verses trying to drill mounts directly into the roof. People are doing lots of no-drill / minimal-drill mounts these days.
Nor do hard panels really have to be too far off the roof. There needs to be air-flow, but there doesn't need to be huge amounts of air-flow so people do air-dam the front. The panels overhang the rails so air-flow basically goes under the panel and then up and over the rail on the long-side.
Hard panels are not nearly as fire-prone as you make them out to be, particularly not compared to flexible panels. Generally speaking, though, it is hard to get statistics because it isn't really a distinction made in accident investigations.
In anycase, I think you are going to find out in the next year or two just how bad an idea it was. The only question is whether the experiment will end with you ripping the panels off the roof before the it burns, or after it burns.
-Matt
@junkerzn7312 for sure many ways to mount. I have done a couple on other RVs as well. There are new mounts all the time but I do like rail setups if you can utilize for your Rv.
As far as burning goes, well so far one year down and really no difference from the roof with no panel to what was under one of the panels I moved.
Will they burn up… I guess we wait and see. May never find out if I have to recover my roof which that may be likely soon. Will see.
The idea of keeping “solar” panels cool is kinda silly. You’re NOT going to be able to keep something that sits in the sun cool. I’ll admit that putting solar panels directly on the roof isn’t going to help you in any way. A layer would help with ventilation somewhat, but not dramatically. I’m going to use two flexible panels on my boat and two rigid. Solar production will never be great on my boat because a the rigid placement of the panels. The two flexible panels is just because of how I’ll be able to install them compared to how I would have to install rigid panels in the same space. Maybe eventually I will put a rigid, but with flexible panels becoming better and better, maybe I’ll just go completely flexible. Rigids are the only way to go for a permanent solution, not so much for something in the vehicle category.
Flexible like rigid have pros and cons. Rigid is the standard for residential and more. RVs and boats there are a ton of options to fit anyone’s needs.
And honestly rigid is kinda boring I like testing the new stuff as it gets better and better. Plus again if it flys of I don’t feel so bad as more and more are flying off as people are adding solar to RVs at fast rates. And people don’t like maintenance. Like sealing and checking screws that wiggle loose on a show box wiggling down the road. So a couple two or 3 years later…. Lift off lol
Needs to be checked regularly
@@johnnysweekends NOTHING is maintenance free, it’s a myth that manufacturers came up with to make their product(s) “seem” better than the other guys. It’s a made up word.
Nothing says CA skies like chem-trails.
those darn haze trails.... it was clear when you started... just saying
Yea nothing I can do. I’m under the air highway for Portland and Seattle to Sacramento
The very best advice was if one came off on the road . Seriously, how would you feel if someone got killed, not to mention your insurance company is most likely going to fight you and you get sued
these are very light and soft. it wouldnt be any worse than a tarp ripping free.
@alexdrockhound9497
That's what I mean, his advice for these as opposed to solid ones
Trailer wings on semis are junk. When I drove for Prime, they were really adamant about us using them because they fell for the same marketing snake oil you are preaching. I spent 10 months monitoring my fuel usage while using them and not using them and not ONCE did it ever even SLIGHTLY affect MPG. I'm not the only one that was doing it and not a single one of us were able to see a single benefit to using them. It's marketing bs.
Well maybe the wings don’t work but solar panels creates turbulence and turbulence is drag regardless
Mojave is hotter
Useless comment. No sh1t, Sherlock. Nobody said it wasn't and literally nobody asked.
Thanks Mate ,👌
Great Video 🙏