1968 CASE 580CK TRACTOR WIRING: BATTERY, KEY-SWITCH, STARTER AND INTAKE HEATER SOLENOID
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 เม.ย. 2022
- This video shows the progress I'm making towards getting my '68 Case 580ck tractor ready for its first start in years! We are almost there. Lets see what I did...
Throttle Rod End
www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-3810...
Throttle Ball Joint
www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-41...
Tractor 4-position Ignition Switch (with 2 keys)
www.amazon.com/MGI-SpeedWare-...
Continuous-duty Solenoid Switch
www.amazon.com/Continuous-Sol...
One-Wire-Alternator (coming soon)
www.amazon.com/DELCO-TYPE-SIN...
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I fix my own cars, renovate houses, tinker with almost everything, cut my own firewood, take short trips into the wilderness, dabble in computers, drag innumerable objects, vehicles and other things home to dismantle, discover and repair, and then I share the adventures and tips with my viewers here on TH-cam. Join Me!
Disclaimer: IMPORTANT! READ!: This video may portray household, construction, automotive or other repair methods and/or activities that may not be suitable for everyone. These videos are informative but are for entertainment purposes only. Always use certified contractors, licensed mechanics, qualified electricians and professionally certified tradespeople to perform any work. Follow the advice of your local building inspector and get appropriate permits before undertaking any repairs or electrical work. Please follow all safety precautions and local Codes. Viewers are advised not to undertake any of the actions in these videos themselves. Everyday Projects cannot be held responsible for any damage, injury or claim resulting from information or instruction gleaned from these videos, whether expressed or implied.
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Great progress on the Case, I am looking forward to seeing it running. You did a great job on the electrics
It's moving forward. This project has been on the back burner for several years and I want to get it running so that I can drive it. The rams will all have to be rebuilt but for now I am focussed on mobility.
I honestly don’t know half the stuff you’re doing but it’s terribly interesting just the same Craig. Make it look good and it should work good 😂. Great stuff Brother!
Without paint, nothing runs hahaha😎
Good video !
Thanks, I hope it comes in handy!
Ha! just ordered 4 pin connectorsrs to rebuild my 1968 gasser yesterday.
Sometimes I wish this was gas. The smell of diesel fuel gets to me sometimes, especially when my hands and tools get covered in it. The diesel would have more torque but the gas engine has its benefits. What condition is your machine in? It would be interesting to hear the story.
How's she goin'? Wow Craig, you're moving ahead on this project in leaps and bounds!!! Nice job getting the wiring done up. Great idea to use the AUX switch position for the manifold heater. I bet this CK will start when you try it!! Take care!!
The injection pump may need to come apart. It has sat for 15 years with fuel in it. The fuel in the tank and filters was all gummed up so against hope that the tractor will just start, I'm thinking that the pump will need a kit. I see that this can be done without sending it in to a shop. I have the kit but will try everything to bleed the pump and try to start it first. Other than that, the tractor is ready to start.
@@EverydayProjects Remember to prime it with a little kerosene if it's stubborn. I had that do the trick a few times on cantankerous VW diesels.
@@heliarche OK, I'll do that. I put some Kleen-Flo into the diesel. It is supposed to do all sorts of miracles including keep sludge out but I'm not sure how it is at disolving already hardened deposits. A breakdown sketch of the pump internals shows many small passages that could easily be gummed up. Fingers crossed.
I bought a 68 case in December of 2020 and I jus rewired the old girl . However in the manual if you do not have enough cranking amps from the battery she will not fire over . I started out with one battery like yours and it would not fire over until I purchased to six volts . the two six volts tied together for a 12 volt matched the cranking amps needed to get her fired over . . She runs like a champ now and I just have to change most the hydraulic lines and some pistons need to be rebuilt
It sounds like you have yourself a project too! The dual six volt batteries in series to get the higher cranking amps is a good idea. But I'm cheap, so I'm going to muck along with what I have for now. Maybe I will do that later, it sounds like the right idea.Thanks for watching and good luck with your tractor!
One of these days I should redo my wiring harness. I have the wires to the starter that I touch together to start it and the fuel shut off to stop it. Doesn't need anything else to run but lights would be good to have. To start it in the winter months when its down below freezing I put an old halogen shop light under the oil pan for about 15 minutes, fires right up after that. I'm not even sure my intake warmer works it I did hook it up. lol :)
You can test the intake heater with battery jumper cables. Positive on the stud and ground to the frame. The key switch I used is from Amazon and was only $20. Having the intake heater on the accessory position will work for now, especially since I'm going to wire any other accessories to the ingition "run" wire. This tractor had a generator and I removed it. I also dropped the external voltage regulator which cleaned up a lot of wires. I have a "One-Wire-GM" alternator to install (also from Amazon). They are good except they sometimes don't charge until the rpms are up. Good luck!
I just put links under my video for the products I used (all from Amazon) good luck!
@@EverydayProjects I have a single wire alternator I want to put on mine as well but haven't figured out how I'm going to mount it. I did find another 1968 Case 580ck in a field about an hour from my place, trying to contact the owner has proven to be a pain though. :)
@@KoalityofLife I will be installing mine soon. I'll make a video. I'm going to weld a small bracket on the top of the right hydraulic tank so that the ALTERNATOR CAN PIVOT UP AND DOWN (this is how I'll tighten the belt) and the water pump and alternator will line up and use the same belt. I looked at every other way to try to use the bracket that bolted the generator to the power steering pump but I think the idea I have will be better. It will sit the alternator up high, however, but I don't have any engine covers to worry about.
@@EverydayProjects Cant wait for that video. :)
I find the differences in your 1968 580CK and my 1968 580CK interesting. Mine doesn't have the trans lines that go to a cooler but mine has a High/Low that yours doesn't have. :)
I remember that your clutch is manual and this one is hydraulic. Funny how so many variations exist for the same model year. Perhaps the difference lies in the initial dealer options: some came with this or that while less expensive models did not. I had a '95 chevy truck and a friend had the same truck but his had no headliner (just a metal ceiling) and there was only one door switch for the interior light (driver door on his) while mine had a switch on each side. Also, the cab difference in the Case tractors is extreme. This one has a funny little cab but others have a very beefy, solid cab. Who knows why?? Thanks for stopping by.
When you ran the starter, I think it sounds different than mine. Did you pull your valve cover and see if your valves are all free?
I should check. Of note is the belts aren't hooked up so no water pump and no alternator turning. Also the power steering pump is out and the main hydraulic pump is off...the more I think about it, when all that is hooked up I don't think it'll ever turn over Hahaha.
I just put links for throttle ball joint (rod ends) in the video description.
question
was spraying engine start into top of intake where heater is and 3inch spray plastic tube fell in while spraying starter fluid in
turned over engine a few times while friend was spraying then he told me he thinks spray tube dropped in
took manifold.off where heater is in and couldn't see little red spray tube
will this be a issue
Not much plastic in those tiny tubes. I wouldn't worry about it. If it did get moved in past a valve the valve would break it up and it would become incinerated. If It were a piece of steel or a screw, I would recommend that you stop right away and remove the intake manifold to investigate. You could still do that if it worried you but the little plastic spray tube is not a match for a valve and the heat of compression.
Those ends like you put on the throttle lever, what are they and where can you find them? I need something similar for my hand throttle.
I bought them at a diesel repair shop. I will find the packaging and get back to you with the exact name later today.
The exact throttle balljoint ends I used are made by PAPCO. They have 1/4"-28 thread. The part number is 262-204. The ones I have listed in the description are identical and less expensive. I see the ones under the steering column that you mentioned. Are yours worn out?
@@EverydayProjects Mine keeps popping off now and then. If I snap it on I can use it, just a pain in the rear.
@@heliarche Sound like those new ends will fix it. Sounds like another video?
@@EverydayProjects I'm sure they'd help. I think something is also out of line. If you just try and pull down on the hand throttle it'll bind up unless you also push down on the foot throttle. Teardown, clean and lubrication and the new ends surely won't hurt! Might be some sort of adjustment in there as well.