CHANGING INJECTORS IN A 188 DIESEL: CASE 580CK TRACTOR
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2022
- In this video, I show the whole process of removing and installing injectors in a 188 diesel engine. This engine is in my 1968 Case 580CK tractor.
Please Subscribe to my channel. Thanks !!
I fix my own cars, renovate houses, tinker with almost everything, cut my own firewood, take short trips into the wilderness, dabble in computers, drag innumerable objects, vehicles and other things home to dismantle, discover and repair, and then I share the adventures and tips with my viewers here on TH-cam. Join Me!
Disclaimer:
IMPORTANT! READ!:
This video may portray household, construction, automotive or other repair methods and/or activities that may not be suitable for everyone. These videos are informative but are for entertainment purposes only. Always use certified contractors, licensed mechanics, qualified electricians and professionally certified tradespeople to perform any work. Follow the advice of your local building inspector and get appropriate permits before undertaking any repairs or electrical work. Please follow all safety precautions and local Codes. Viewers are advised not to undertake any of the actions in these videos themselves. Everyday Projects cannot be held responsible for any damage, injury or claim resulting from information or instruction gleaned from these videos, whether expressed or implied.
Music Credits: TH-cam Music Library
Image credits: Google images - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thank you your video helped me to get out all four of them , without destroying anything.
I'm really glad to hear that! Patience is so necessary with so many things in life. Best wishes, take care.
Thanks for the videos, been watching all of then, I bought a 1967 Case 580 CK on May 1st , everything works but when it get hot after 15/20 minutes the oil pressure drops and it stalls also has a rattling noise on engine, so I decided to start to take apart the engine, first I'll take out the oil pan and access the bearings and connecting rods ..............but I know it will end up rebuilding the whole engine, learning a lot with your videos, THANK YOU!!!!, Can't wait for the next one.
It sounds like you have worn bearings. The thicker oil keeps the knock away but when the oil warms up and thins the knock is evident. Maybe just try to roll in some new bearings. If you are anything like me though, you'll have it all stripped down for a rebuild. Thanks for the kind comment. More to come on the 580ck real soon !
@@EverydayProjects thank you, have a great day.
How's she goin'? A tedious process but that's what needs to happen and you proved it!!! Nice job getting those injectors out. That would have spoiled your day if one broke off eh. Too bad it wouldn't start for you, but it will start I bet. Take care and good luck with this project!!!
Eventually, it will go. Diesel fuel breaks down over time and contains bacterial growth that adds to sludge and gum. This tractor hasn't turned over in over 17 years so it is little wonder it is clogged up. I cleaned and installed a kit in the injection pump last week too (video soon) so I should soon have everything sorted out. perhaps there is wear inside the pump that I can't measure. I'm doing everything I can to avert having to buy a pump.
I had the same thing happen. Had to bleed the air. Started right up
I have the older version of the 188, injectors completely different!
More normal than these pencil types you have.
Also near impossible to find through normal channels.
This is my first experience with pencil-type injectors. I was afraid that I'd snap one off in the head so I worked at them really slow to get them out. There seems to be many aftermarket pencil injectors out there but I'm not familiar with the other type you have. These ones I got on Amazon for...what was it?? about $100 for the set of 4.
Great job getting those old injectors out and I like your method. It looked like it wanted to fire. Does the engine have glow plugs? The pump seemed to be pushing fuel through the system and it appears that you were getting unburnt fuel through the exhaust
This tractor has an intake manifold heater but no glow plugs. Today, I changed the fuel filter and supply lines to help eliminate what I believe is a suction side air leak into the system. A brief test within this past hour shows even more unburned fuel out the exhaust while cranking. It seems like it wants to go ! I have a weak battery and the intake heater drains it down quickly, robbing the starter from much needed amps. I'm going to look for a better battery and hopefully, with a long heat cycle and fingers crossed, it will start.
Maybe go to a gun shop and buy a barrel cleaning brush , rod, and handle to clean that bore before putting in the new injector. Not sure what caliber .
I doubt a new clean oiled barrel should have to be tapped in ..
The bore for the injector is close tolerances but your idea is a good one. A barrel bush for, perhaps, a 20 guage shotgun would be just about right. Everything on this old tractor is rusty and siezed. This thing sat outside in the rain and weather for more than 15 years before I took the plunge and bought it. Thanks for the suggestion...I'll be trying that.
Hey, have you had any issues with those injectors? I would guess that these are the same ones I need for my 1968 Case 580Ck 188 diesel. I had the pump rebuild by Area Diesel and it really pumps the fuel, but it does not appear to be making it out the injectors in to the cylinder. I figured I would just replace them and hopefully she comes to life. Hope all is well. Thanks
No problem with these injectors. They are a less expensive option that seems to work. I think the part number is in the video. Got them on Amazon. Good luck, Michael. Take care🚂🚂
Good catch on the injectors. If I ever have to do it I might try and make a slide hammer that clamps on but it looks like your method is actually less likely to break them off. Just be gentle and patient.
Did you oil the cylinders or something? If not, you're surely getting fuel and yea she tried a little bit. That smoke out the intake means you've got fuel and it looks like enough to run. When it tried to kick I saw it turning a little blacker as well. I'm optimistic. I still think it's lacking compression in one cylinder. Hopefully a valve stuck up or the rings just need to work loose. That's my bet as it sat for so long, it's just something stuck. Before you go to the trouble of changing filters out I'd give it a little toot of ether or WD-40 down the intake. That'll get it to kick off. If you want to go to that style of filter anyhow then I suppose you may as well do it while you have it apart. I think it'll run as is though. I always have to give mine a little snoot on a somewhat cold day. It'll go, it will surely go! It might run on three cylinders for a bit but I'm thinking it's going to come around alright once it warms up and shakes of the rust. Sorry, I'm not trying to play the expert, I'm just excited to see this old gal wake up!
I've had new filters and the bases in a box for a couple of years, holding back installing them until I saw the tractor run but I'm about to install them. It may be that the pump is worn but I had a 6.2 diesel a few years ago that was acting similar-turn but no start no matter what I did. Then one day I got so fed up that I broke down and bought a RACOR filter with the sediment bowl (like you see on marine engines). When that was hooked up, the truck started right away ! I had some sort of air leak on the suction side of the pump that I couldn't find. But the new filter base and RACOR filter hooked up with new push-on fittings had the engine running right away. let's see what happens. Fingers crossed. I tried a very tiny whiff of ether the other day and the engine roared and ran strong for 5 seconds. Mechanically it's ready to go.
@@EverydayProjects You're doing it right from one end to the other. Once you have it running you won't have any worries about the fuel system. It'll go!
@@heliarche I'll be trying a start today with the new filters temporarily mounted. They will require a special bracket that has to be made. If this doesn't work, I'm faced with having to find a rebuilt pump and/or tear into it again and change the pump plungers/rollers/cam ring, etc--I don't like what I'm seeing for rebuilt pump prices!! I haven't posted the rebuild I did yet but the pump internals were really clogged up with old fuel that had turned to a brown sludge. As you know, diesel fuel to the pump must be kept spotlessly clean. This old gal had been neglected for years, rode hard and put away wet, as they say. There is a guy on TH-cam that called his 580CK a "Hopeless Case" haha...this one isn't far behind. I may quit doing all this and take up knitting or something......
@@EverydayProjects If it ran on a little sniff of ether for 5 seconds or so, I'd say chances are fair that you'll be able to fire it up once you have your fuel delivery done to your liking. Somehow or other, it was getting fuel when you were cranking.
I need to replace the injectors on my case 188d motor. did you get your running and did the injectors you purchased work?
The injectors I bought off Amazon worked (see the video for the brand). I have some ongoing issues with stuck rings because the engine sat outdoors for almost 18 years and never moved, but the injectors were a big improvement. I would buy them again if needed.
I have a Case 580CK Forklift that I resurected after sitting for who knows how many years. Fuel system was completely full of water including the injector pump. Started it up today just because I have ran it in awhile. Checked the oil and it is way high. I believe diesel is leaking into the oil. I haven't changed injectors yet. Can an injector stick open and diesel leak into the oil? Of course it could have a cracked block and coolant has filled up the oil pan. I don't believe this is the case though as I've had it 4 years now and I've always kept the antifreeze fresh. When it was sitting all of those years someone had stolen the radiator so the block did not have anything in it to freeze and crack it.
The injection pump would have to be turning to pass fuel through it so that's probably not the issue. If it isn't water leaking in or coolant there are two possibilities. Someone overfilled the crankcase, or the rear main crankshaft seal could be allowing torque tube hydraulic fluid in to the engine sump when it sits, but that would mean the front seal on the torque tube is faulty too. Check the torque tube and see if it is contaminated with engine oil???Other than that, I'm stumped. Let me know once you solve the mystery, I'd like to know what happened.
@@EverydayProjects My local diesel mechanic said most likely the cup seals on the shaft have failed. He said the Stanadyne pumps will leak diesel to the engine oil just sitting there. I can accept this because when I resurrected this machine I did the best to clean everything but the entire diesel system was full of water(and rust) and I may not have got the seat for these seals clean or possibly missed enough contamination for it to have damaged these seals. I have bought more cup seals and an installation tool. It's an easy enough job to slide the pump off of the shaft, install new seals and slide the pump back on the shaft...even though that a crude way of doing things. There was no overfill on the crankcase. It's been good for 4 years no since the resurrection. This diesel in the fluid has just happenned in the last few months. I don't use it much as I am away overseas half the time working on a natural gas platform. But it is extremely handy when I need it.
But I have another issue: One thing I didn't do during resurrection was install new seals on the lines and injectors. So I attempted this today. I am having trouble installing the new seals that slip over the injectors. Granted it's cold and the seals are not pliable when it's 32 degrees. I seated them in the nut but can't get them past the nut on the top of the injector. I tried grease. Maybe some oil or ATF will be better. It's supposed to be 50 degrees tomorrow. I will keep the seals inside and warm before I make another attempt.
And last I thank you for your video. Not many available for the Case 188 engine and all of them help.
@@blackseabrew Those rubber seals on the return lines work when they're new but get stiff over time. Installing them once they're warm should help. The shaft seals on the injection pump are a likely source of fuel in the crankcase--I hadn't thought of that. They aren't too difficult to change just go slow and easy to make sure the lip on the one facing the pump enters into the brass sleeve without turning back on itself (oil it). That said, the brass sleeve can be the problem too because they wear where the seal runs against it. They're available and easy to change. Just measure the length it protrudes out from the pump and install the new one with some epoxy to the same depth. If the seals have worn a groove in the sleeve, even new seals may not stop the leak. I'll have more videos soon. I have to get an injection line made up and installed and try firing the engine again. Best of luck with your machine.
@@EverydayProjects One thing has led to another on this project. I pulled off the exhaust manifold to assist with disassembly of the fuel lines and immediately saw I had one cylinder with blocked exhaust passage. Pulled the valve cover to discover this cylinder had both valves stuck(Apparently a common issue with the 188 engine as topside oiling is lacking). Amazingly only one of the pushrods was bent. Another pushrod was bent as well but not very much. Picked up two of them at local tractor salvage yard. Took two weeks but with alternating transmission fluid, brake cleaner and a bit of seafoam along with gentle valve manipulation(hammer and prybar) I got everything back together and working. But now the big problem. I ordered a new set of pencil injectors. Before I ordered them I asked about the crack pressure but the seller said he didn't know but said they were a direct match based on the part number etched into the pencil injectors. They arrived with a calibration sticker of 3400PSI. Which is much more that the Stanadyne/Roosamaster rotary pump can produce. But I didn't know this detail before I installed them and tried to start it...unsuccessfully. So I took my old injectors to the local diesel mechanicand he tested them. All four cracked at 2600PSI but two of them had one nozzle blocked each. We also tested one of my new injectors and it cracked at 3400PSI just like the sticker said. Yes injectors are adjustable but not 30%. Just +/- 200PSI at the most.
If you are interested I can send you a picture I took at the salvage yard as it applies to your project. It's the engine specification tag from Case on an old 188D. It clearly lists the injector crack pressure at 2600PSI.
So much to learn about these tractors! The injector pressure is news to me. I didn't have any idea what it would be but assumed it was in the 2000 psi range. I bought 4 new pencil injectors off Amazon and they worked. Although it was another issue with fuel gummed up inside the injection pump that kept the engine from starting for quite a while. I tried everything: new injectors, set timing, adjusted valves, cleaned out fuel tank and added new diesel and conditioner and Seafoam, rebuilt the injection pump and when I was about to give up, I received an email. The guy told me about a pressure regulator pistin inside the end cover of the old style lift pump in the injection pump. It was siezed up almost solid and when I got it back together the engine fired up--first time in 20 years. Good luck. You can email me anytime at : Everydayprojects@yahoo.com@@blackseabrew