It's now the 2nd time that I reviewed this educational video on the electrical components of a motor vehicle starter system. I think that it's the best one I have viewed & will help me resolve my starter problem. Thank you from Johannesburg, South Africa.
A good teacher is the one that knows how to make others to learn and understand the easiest way. You're an excellent teacher, I wish I'd had people like you around me. Most of the things I had learned is on my own with God's help figuring out how things work. Not everybody has the talent and paciente to teach others, and not everybody likes to teach others what they know that gives you a plus. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and may God give you more. God bless you!!!
Your video is great! I loved your electrical component demonstration. It was very easy to follow your explanation while seeing the actual path of the wires to each component and understand how the components work together to crank an engine. Great job!
FANTASTIC!!! The best most complete tutorial I have seen on the starter system. Keep up the amazing work. It's inspired me to make contraptions explaining starter, injector flow testing etc!!
Literally the amount of work put into this is tremendous, just so that everyone can understand it ! Thankyou for your work, it really helped a lot and also really appreciate it !
This is gold. Wow, excellent explanation. I will re-watch several times. To really hammer it in my dense skull. Above and beyond, you really know your shit. much appreciation.
Thank you. Always I hear stop cranking the ignition key once the engine starts but I did not know why. Thanks for your video for explaining this point and more.
Sweet vid, you got a new subscriber. Curious if the auto start/ stop can cause issues with the initial car start? If that even makes sense. Or where those components would be in your bench top layout? Again, great video.
Thank you for incorporating the fly wheel gear. That explains a ton about how a car actually runs. Your entire presentation is very well done, extremely detailed and thoughtful. I only stopped to watch your video to see if i was connecting my starter correctly or not and got educated in so much more, so thank you. Subscribed. I hope you have more videos similiar to this. What about the generator/alternator in this wiring set up? I dont think i see one or did i miss something? My car had an inline fusible link from the starter to the alternator that burned out apparently but i was unable to reach it to replace it so i simply have a power/positive cable from the starter to the battery and i also have a power/positive cable going to the battery instead..... Is this a bad idea?
Thanks for the kind words and for subscribing. The generator/ alternator wring set up might be a good topic for a video project in the near future. Regarding the blown fusible link, the new circuit might work without it, but it doesn’t offer the protection from current overload. I’m not familiar with your vehicle, but the fusible link was placed there for a good reason-to prevent costly damages to components. I hope you were able to replace it. Thanks again.
This is a very well explained and set up video. From nothing, now I understand how starting system works. Is there a similar video like this one for the charging system?
This is fantastic. Based on the fact that the positive terminal connector on the battery is connected to the positive terminal on the starter, Is it possible to disconnect the positive cable from the starter, put a load on it, and charge the battery?
Awesome! I see this video is made for electric engineers as they understand this stuff, but I have made it out understanding almost all the ideas based on my school physics! Just one thing I didnt get: what is the main purpose of the small relay that is connected to both the safety switch (park/drive) and the contact key? You said it is for safety, but how?
@@ahmedtzaki4476 The purpose of the starter relay in this video and the vast majority of relays is to save money on wire and switching devices. A relay uses a low current circuit to control a higher current circuit. The use of relays is not due to safety reasons. It's mostly due to economic reasons. The "neutral safety switch" is used for safety so you can only start the car in park or neutral and not in drive or reverse. If you didn't use relays, you would have to use bigger and more expensive ignition switches that can handle higher currents. You also would have to use a larger quantity of thicker wire to handle the higher currents. Using the relay you can use thin wire from ignition switch to relay control circuit pin #86 and thin wire from relay control circuit #85 to ground. Using the relay also allows you to use a smaller less expensive switch. Using the relay, the only places you have to use thicker and more expensive wire is from battery positive to relay pin #30 and from relay pin #87 to starter solenoid.
Surely the small relay 30 connector should be connected directly to the battery positive and not the ignition switch. In other words ,when the ignition switch is turned to start the car, the small relay gets low amp power through 85 and 86 to energize the coil which pulls 87 towards 30 to make a connection. The reason for this relay is that higher amps passes through 87 and 30 because the bigger solenoid needs/ pulls higher amps. You do not want these higher amps going through the starter switch. The entire purpose of the relay is to not put high amps through the starter switch. Then the bigger solenoid does the same thing , it takes the higher amps to energize the bigger coil that then allows even higher amps to flow from battery to starter motor. Let me know if I'm wrong
Hi there I'm a new mechanic I like the way u explain the process what I don't realize is why the starter is connected with wire that comes from alternator I'm confused
Intresting didnt know it was the trigger wire that went through the safety and relay. Explains the no click sound i have. I wonder if i can jump it by passing a wire from positive to relay with the car in park. (Well maybe netrual with a brick on the clutch lever in my case)
If you don't know exactly what your doing, I wouldn't do that. Most starting systems on today's cars are not as simple as his demonstration. They involve a lot more electronics. On most cars you can ruin an engine control module if you mistakenly jump the control side with battery positive to slot 85 and slot 85 is the ground side of the control circuit controlled by the ECM.
Question, I understand that accessories will be on when the key is in ignition position but is there a way to only turn an accessory on only after the starter is on? So basically, on ignition position it won't turn on until only after the starter cranks the engine on.
Nice video! I have a quick question. I replaced my starter on my 94 bmw 325i thinking that I have a bad starter. I checked the battery is good, starter is good, relay is good… but sometimes it won’t start. I bypass my ignition switch and used a push start. Everything works fine but sometimes it won’t start. I read online that it maybe the wire coming from my relay to the starter is bad or corroded… can I just simply put a 12 volts to the starter solenoid so when I push start the car it will start? Thanks in advance
HeyJay, I don’t recommend doing that because solenoid is already connected to a 12volts. It might be that the ground wires are loosened or rusted…That would be something I would check next …Thanks!
DONT UNDERSTAND the three wires going into ignition switch ? power into ignition goes on B as in from battery. S on ignition switch goes to 30 on relay . But which terminal on ignition does wire from 86 on relay go ? You keep saying ignition but which terminal ? If the ignition has B battery S start solenoid G ground and A/L acessories / lights then is it the A/L or the G ? I am guessing A/L because G ground does not seem right to me .
Great video. Can you do a video on internally and externally regulated alternators? How they work and are wired…older systems like for muscle cars from the 60s.
Brilliant, thank you! Did I understand correctly, when you turn the ignition key, the entire chassis becomes part of the circuit? And the chassis is connected to the -ve terminal of the battery?
Thank you that helped a lot someone took a screws out of mine and only put one back so I feel that maybe my problem how to get that screw back up in there, to be for sure thank you again thank you again
Hi, great video. I have an MOT (Ministory of Transport) test due on 2 old vehicles, but one has an Ignition problem (randomly won't start and won't affect the outcome of the MOT )and isn't being used, I have renewed the IG switch on advice, but it wasn't that. So to use it, if the other fails the MOT test, to keep us mobile (we are remote living) If I feed (from the + batt term)the large red wire on the solonoid will this bypass the IG switch and turn the motor over and start the car (ignition switch in the on posistion too) The garage said it was the large terminal ,but I thought it was the "S" terminal the one you point to,(and he changed his mind ),, ,does it matter ? Thanks for reading. Chris (UK)
If I understand your question correctly, the answer is, no. I don’t recommend doing that because the solenoid is not designed to take on so much current. That is why even the signal wire has a fuse. In addition, connecting the positive wire to the solenoid will not provide electricity to the starter motor because each runs on different circuit. With possible 400 Amps or more running through the solenoid tiny coil windings, the possibility of it being destroyed it very likely. But it is your car, not mine. Thanks for reaching out. Happy new year!
To answer your question: yes, you can start your engine by connecting the solenoid straight to the + terminal of your battery. Just make sure you only keep the contact on until the engine starts, typically about 2-3 seconds! The starter solenoid will not burn out because it has enough resistance to the 12 volts from the battery. It was meant to run on 12 volts. I was actually stuck on the road few days ago, on January 1st, it was night, holidays, and away from any repair shops. The mechanism between my key and the ignition switch under my wheel broke, but at least my steering wheel was in the unlocked position. After calling a car mechanic/electrician, I was advised I could start the engine by pushing the car since the contact was on (and I couldn't turn it off with my key). Since pushing was out of the question, I figured that I could bypass my ignition switch and go straight to the starter solenoid from the battery's positive terminal. I was aware that the starter was connected to the chassis on the negative end, and with a large wire on the positive end, i.e. always connected to the battery, and that it is engaged with a solenoid which requires a few amps (5-10 amps), while the starter motor uses at least 100 to 200 amps. I checked the internet for the starter motor location on my car, got my jumper cable, laid under the front of my car, took the solenoid connector off and attached the jumper cable. As soon as I touched battery's positive terminal, it started cranking and the engine was running within 2-3 seconds. I was very happy because that saved me a lot of money and time compared to towing my car and finding transportation for myself (at least 2 hours away from home). When I arrived home, I had to stop the engine by shifting to 4th gear (by force), since I couldn't disengage contact, and disconnecting the battery would still leave the generator running which would both keep the engine running AND likely burn car's electronics due to large voltage peaks without the battery loading and smoothing the generator's output voltage like a capacitor.
Wow. Amazing story. Glad you made back home okay. The key point here is that you are able to disconnect after 2-3 seconds just enough to get it started. Nevertheless, it is great to know. Thanks for sharing.
So I have a 2003 Ford Ranger with a 3 l. It runs great it's a great truck on the original owner what about three or four years ago it started with a no crank no start issue and I'm taking it in and they said that they don't know what it is I've changed the starter the battery and the ignition switch and it still does it does it!! I can hear the relay clicking can I switched it with the blower relay and it still does it!? I think the only thing left is to look underneath the fuse box for corrosion in the starter relay connections?
Try connect the terminals on the solenoid. That will get the starter motor turning and the engine should start. Sometimes the solenoid gets sticky. So if you head the motor turning but not starting it could be sticky. Give the solenoid a gentle tap and try connect the terminals on the solenoid again. Hopefully the engine will start. You can use a screw driver or I've got a short piece of thick insulated cable I use to connect the terminals. This should give you an idea of it's just the solenoid that's giving issues. I'm not too good at testing the rest of the system. Good luck!
Excellent video, thanks. Can I ask you, looking in the relay if you don't have a good ground from battery to the relay where you have 4 cables to the relay itself you still can give power to the cable that goes to the started ? Thanks.
The electricity has to make a complete circuit, from the positive terminal to the negative terminal. If the pathway is blocked, it will not provide electricity to the starter…Thanks!
@@diypotentials thanks much, I’ve been hearing a click sound sometimes when i try to start my vehicle so I’m think the problem could be the ground wire
@DIY Potentials: Projects & Ideas So I have a 212cc electric start engine hooked to alternator to charge 12v batteries. Is there a product I can buy that automatically turns off the engine when the battery is fully charged and turns it on again when it needs charging? I know it exist. I think I've seen videos of it before.
My car pilot 2012 it has two starter relays, when I crank start the car I don’t get any voltage come out to starter solenoid. I look for starter wiring diagram but can’t find any. Any one can help me please. I tested both starter relays working but when crank start only one click the other is not
Just fixed my wife's daily driver - our '74 Suburban - based on this video. Thanks much!
That is amazing, great job! Thanks for sharing!
It's now the 2nd time that I reviewed this educational video on the electrical components of a motor vehicle starter system. I think that it's the best one I have viewed & will help me resolve my starter problem. Thank you from Johannesburg, South Africa.
Thanks for your kind words. I’m glad it was helpful-USA 😊
A good teacher is the one that knows how to make others to learn and understand the easiest way.
You're an excellent teacher, I wish I'd had people like you around me. Most of the things I had learned is on my own with God's help figuring out how things work. Not everybody has the talent and paciente to teach others, and not everybody likes to teach others what they know that gives you a plus.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and may God give you more. God bless you!!!
Thank you so much for your kind words. Happy new year!
He put in all his effort to make us understand, great video
Thank you!
Your video is great! I loved your electrical component demonstration. It was very easy to follow your explanation while seeing the actual path of the wires to each component and understand how the components work together to crank an engine. Great job!
Thank you!
FANTASTIC!!! The best most complete tutorial I have seen on the starter system. Keep up the amazing work. It's inspired me to make contraptions explaining starter, injector flow testing etc!!
Awesome! I’m glad you found it helpful. I recommend posting your projects on TH-cam so we may learn from you as well…Thanks so much!
~|0
Literally the amount of work put into this is tremendous, just so that everyone can understand it !
Thankyou for your work, it really helped a lot and also really appreciate it !
I really appreciate the kind words. Thank you 😊!
Well done! I will watch this again many times to understand this complex system.
Thank you!
I happend to already know nearly all of this, but this was still a very helpful, useful explanation to me. Thank you for making and sharing.
He is a great instructor.Thank you so much, I was watching for understanding only but not a DIY guy.precious lesson.
You are a very good teacher sir….
This is gold. Wow, excellent explanation. I will re-watch several times. To really hammer it in my dense skull. Above and beyond, you really know your shit. much appreciation.
Thanks for the kind words! Much appreciated!
Just trying to learn how the different parts of my motorcycle work and this is very helpful. Thank you
Brother your are great thank you so much for this precious information
Great teaching good Job I have learn from your teaching
Excellent explanation, best I have seen on TH-cam! Well done!
Thank you!
Nice video, please how do connect a push button to replace the key starter in this procedure. Thanks
Great job bro . Very useful episodes
We learn how to fix the ignition system if there is a trouble
Thanks!
Great video thanks for the good explanations. U are the man 👍
Thank you!
আপনাকে ধন্যবাদ এত সুন্দর করে বুঝিয়ে বলার জন্য আমাদেরকে বোঝানোর জন্য এখানে আপনাকে অনেক পরিশ্রম করতে হয়েছে
You are a good physics teacher!
Thank you!
great video, I was unsure on the relays role in the starter circuitry and now I understand completely
Thank you. Always I hear stop cranking the ignition key once the engine starts but I did not know why. Thanks for your video for explaining this point and more.
Thanks for sharing. Happy holidays!
Sweet vid, you got a new subscriber. Curious if the auto start/ stop can cause issues with the initial car start? If that even makes sense. Or where those components would be in your bench top layout? Again, great video.
Very detailed explanation. Keep it up.
Best ever explanation!!! Thank you.
Thank you!!!
Very nice video and educative much love ❤❤❤from 🇰🇪 kenya
Thank you! Best wishes from 🇺🇸 USA.
Thank you for incorporating the fly wheel gear. That explains a ton about how a car actually runs. Your entire presentation is very well done, extremely detailed and thoughtful. I only stopped to watch your video to see if i was connecting my starter correctly or not and got educated in so much more, so thank you. Subscribed. I hope you have more videos similiar to this. What about the generator/alternator in this wiring set up? I dont think i see one or did i miss something? My car had an inline fusible link from the starter to the alternator that burned out apparently but i was unable to reach it to replace it so i simply have a power/positive cable from the starter to the battery and i also have a power/positive cable going to the battery instead..... Is this a bad idea?
Thanks for the kind words and for subscribing. The generator/ alternator wring set up might be a good topic for a video project in the near future. Regarding the blown fusible link, the new circuit might work without it, but it doesn’t offer the protection from current overload. I’m not familiar with your vehicle, but the fusible link was placed there for a good reason-to prevent costly damages to components. I hope you were able to replace it. Thanks again.
This is a very well explained and set up video. From nothing, now I understand how starting system works. Is there a similar video like this one for the charging system?
Thanks!
This is fantastic. Based on the fact that the positive terminal connector on the battery is connected to the positive terminal on the starter, Is it possible to disconnect the positive cable from the starter, put a load on it, and charge the battery?
U r stupid
What’s the common name for that safety switch for park? Thanks man, great video.
Gearshift, gear stick, gear lever, gear shifter? Thanks!
great lesson of today
Awesome!
I see this video is made for electric engineers as they understand this stuff, but I have made it out understanding almost all the ideas based on my school physics!
Just one thing I didnt get: what is the main purpose of the small relay that is connected to both the safety switch (park/drive) and the contact key? You said it is for safety, but how?
No, it's made for mechanics not engineers.
@bernardocisneros4402
Ok, you definitely know better as my knowledge in engineering specialties is very weak.
Any answer for the question?
@@ahmedtzaki4476 The purpose of the starter relay in this video and the vast majority of relays is to save money on wire and switching devices. A relay uses a low current circuit to control a higher current circuit. The use of relays is not due to safety reasons. It's mostly due to economic reasons. The "neutral safety switch" is used for safety so you can only start the car in park or neutral and not in drive or reverse. If you didn't use relays, you would have to use bigger and more expensive ignition switches that can handle higher currents. You also would have to use a larger quantity of thicker wire to handle the higher currents. Using the relay you can use thin wire from ignition switch to relay control circuit pin #86 and thin wire from relay control circuit #85 to ground. Using the relay also allows you to use a smaller less expensive switch. Using the relay, the only places you have to use thicker and more expensive wire is from battery positive to relay pin #30 and from relay pin #87 to starter solenoid.
Amazing description. Super helpful information & very concise.
Beautifully explained and wonderful work on the example... Thank you.
Excellent teaching video!
Thank you!
Great job and helped me to understand
A fantastic video, with a fabulous presentation and explanation! Thanks!
Thank you!
Utterly beautiful video ⚡️⚡️
Thank you. I really appreciate the feedback.
What is I and R marking on DC 24V starter, Two main terminal are there for connecting+ and - from battery.
Surely the small relay 30 connector should be connected directly to the battery positive and not the ignition switch. In other words ,when the ignition switch is turned to start the car, the small relay gets low amp power through 85 and 86 to energize the coil which pulls 87 towards 30 to make a connection. The reason for this relay is that higher amps passes through 87 and 30 because the bigger solenoid needs/ pulls higher amps. You do not want these higher amps going through the starter switch. The entire purpose of the relay is to not put high amps through the starter switch.
Then the bigger solenoid does the same thing , it takes the higher amps to energize the bigger coil that then allows even higher amps to flow from battery to starter motor.
Let me know if I'm wrong
it is connected to the battery via the fuse box. it is always "hot".
Information very helpful. If possible, can you please make one with complex wiring.
Hi there I'm a new mechanic I like the way u explain the process what I don't realize is why the starter is connected with wire that comes from alternator I'm confused
Did anyone ever answer this?
Intresting didnt know it was the trigger wire that went through the safety and relay. Explains the no click sound i have. I wonder if i can jump it by passing a wire from positive to relay with the car in park. (Well maybe netrual with a brick on the clutch lever in my case)
If you don't know exactly what your doing, I wouldn't do that. Most starting systems on today's cars are not as simple as his demonstration. They involve a lot more electronics. On most cars you can ruin an engine control module if you mistakenly jump the control side with battery positive to slot 85 and slot 85 is the ground side of the control circuit controlled by the ECM.
The best comprehensive.
Many thanks.
Thank you!
Amazingly explained 👍🏻
Thank you!
Question, I understand that accessories will be on when the key is in ignition position but is there a way to only turn an accessory on only after the starter is on? So basically, on ignition position it won't turn on until only after the starter cranks the engine on.
Great video very informative I’ll watch at least 20 times
Thank you!
great teaching
Thanks for the detail explanation.
Great explanation mate, keep it up!
Thank you!
Nice video! I have a quick question. I replaced my starter on my 94 bmw 325i thinking that I have a bad starter. I checked the battery is good, starter is good, relay is good… but sometimes it won’t start. I bypass my ignition switch and used a push start. Everything works fine but sometimes it won’t start. I read online that it maybe the wire coming from my relay to the starter is bad or corroded… can I just simply put a 12 volts to the starter solenoid so when I push start the car it will start? Thanks in advance
HeyJay, I don’t recommend doing that because solenoid is already connected to a 12volts. It might be that the ground wires are loosened or rusted…That would be something I would check next …Thanks!
DONT UNDERSTAND the three wires going into ignition switch ? power into ignition goes on B as in from battery. S on ignition switch goes to 30 on relay . But which terminal on ignition does wire from 86 on relay go ? You keep saying ignition but which terminal ? If the ignition has B battery S start solenoid G ground and A/L acessories / lights then is it the A/L or the G ? I am guessing A/L because G ground does not seem right to me .
Best video on this subject.
Thank you!
this video is great
👍👍👍
Great video. Can you do a video on internally and externally regulated alternators? How they work and are wired…older systems like for muscle cars from the 60s.
Sounds like a very interesting video. Thanks!
Very good video, thanks
Brilliant, thank you! Did I understand correctly, when you turn the ignition key, the entire chassis becomes part of the circuit? And the chassis is connected to the -ve terminal of the battery?
Yes, the chassis becomes part of the circuit. Thank you!
Thank you that helped a lot someone took a screws out of mine and only put one back so I feel that maybe my problem how to get that screw back up in there, to be for sure thank you again thank you again
Thanks!
Hi, great video. I have an MOT (Ministory of Transport) test due on 2 old vehicles, but one has an Ignition problem (randomly won't start and won't affect the outcome of the MOT )and isn't being used, I have renewed the IG switch on advice, but it wasn't that. So to use it, if the other fails the MOT test, to keep us mobile (we are remote living) If I feed (from the + batt term)the large red wire on the solonoid will this bypass the IG switch and turn the motor over and start the car (ignition switch in the on posistion too) The garage said it was the large terminal ,but I thought it was the "S" terminal the one you point to,(and he changed his mind ),, ,does it matter ? Thanks for reading. Chris (UK)
If I understand your question correctly, the answer is, no. I don’t recommend doing that because the solenoid is not designed to take on so much current. That is why even the signal wire has a fuse. In addition, connecting the positive wire to the solenoid will not provide electricity to the starter motor because each runs on different circuit. With possible 400 Amps or more running through the solenoid tiny coil windings, the possibility of it being destroyed it very likely. But it is your car, not mine. Thanks for reaching out. Happy new year!
That makes sense to a tryer, Happy New year to you to .Thanks a lot, Chris.@@diypotentials
To answer your question: yes, you can start your engine by connecting the solenoid straight to the + terminal of your battery.
Just make sure you only keep the contact on until the engine starts, typically about 2-3 seconds!
The starter solenoid will not burn out because it has enough resistance to the 12 volts from the battery. It was meant to run on 12 volts.
I was actually stuck on the road few days ago, on January 1st, it was night, holidays, and away from any repair shops.
The mechanism between my key and the ignition switch under my wheel broke, but at least my steering wheel was in the unlocked position.
After calling a car mechanic/electrician, I was advised I could start the engine by pushing the car since the contact was on (and I couldn't turn it off with my key).
Since pushing was out of the question, I figured that I could bypass my ignition switch and go straight to the starter solenoid from the battery's positive terminal.
I was aware that the starter was connected to the chassis on the negative end, and with a large wire on the positive end, i.e. always connected to the battery, and that it is engaged with a solenoid which requires a few amps (5-10 amps), while the starter motor uses at least 100 to 200 amps.
I checked the internet for the starter motor location on my car, got my jumper cable, laid under the front of my car, took the solenoid connector off and attached the jumper cable.
As soon as I touched battery's positive terminal, it started cranking and the engine was running within 2-3 seconds. I was very happy because that saved me a lot of money and time compared to towing my car and finding transportation for myself (at least 2 hours away from home).
When I arrived home, I had to stop the engine by shifting to 4th gear (by force), since I couldn't disengage contact, and disconnecting the battery would still leave the generator running which would both keep the engine running AND likely burn car's electronics due to large voltage peaks without the battery loading and smoothing the generator's output voltage like a capacitor.
Wow. Amazing story. Glad you made back home okay. The key point here is that you are able to disconnect after 2-3 seconds just enough to get it started. Nevertheless, it is great to know. Thanks for sharing.
So I have a 2003 Ford Ranger with a 3 l. It runs great it's a great truck on the original owner what about three or four years ago it started with a no crank no start issue and I'm taking it in and they said that they don't know what it is I've changed the starter the battery and the ignition switch and it still does it does it!! I can hear the relay clicking can I switched it with the blower relay and it still does it!? I think the only thing left is to look underneath the fuse box for corrosion in the starter relay connections?
Try connect the terminals on the solenoid. That will get the starter motor turning and the engine should start. Sometimes the solenoid gets sticky. So if you head the motor turning but not starting it could be sticky. Give the solenoid a gentle tap and try connect the terminals on the solenoid again. Hopefully the engine will start. You can use a screw driver or I've got a short piece of thick insulated cable I use to connect the terminals.
This should give you an idea of it's just the solenoid that's giving issues. I'm not too good at testing the rest of the system.
Good luck!
man you're on point! Excellent tips I feel like I can do this now. thanks "...
Thank you!
Can you illustrate where an ammeter be placed in the circuit.
amazing vedio, Thank You so Much, God bless You
Thank you 😊
Great video! Will ask my dad to do this.
Thanks!
Gmg sir saw ur video
Thanx for ur knowledge
Best regards
Imran from India. Mumbai😊😅 tc
Thank you! Best wishes!
Beautifully explained 😤👌🏼
Thank you!
Great explanasion!
Very good and useful video
Thanks!
Excellent video, thanks. Can I ask you, looking in the relay if you don't have a good ground from battery to the relay where you have 4 cables to the relay itself you still can give power to the cable that goes to the started ? Thanks.
The electricity has to make a complete circuit, from the positive terminal to the negative terminal. If the pathway is blocked, it will not provide electricity to the starter…Thanks!
Thanks for the video.
Very good explanation of the starting system...
Thank you!
Thanks for going to the trouble of showing all of that 😊😊
Thank you!
Thank you Sir! I learn a lot today.
Glad to hear. Thank you!
Good job dude 😎
Thank you! 😊
What size of wire you use, that thicker wire for starter motor
WOW! Very well explained!
Thank you!
I struggle today to make my bike starter just because I didn't know that negative wire on relay most go to a negative on the battery. Thank s.
Very very good video. Thank you. Bravo to you
Thank you very much!
Quick question the ground from the starter goes directly to the negative of the battery ?
In this set up, yes. In real vehicles, the ground is connected to the chassis. Thanks!
@@diypotentials thanks much, I’ve been hearing a click sound sometimes when i try to start my vehicle so I’m think the problem could be the ground wire
@@tonyswagz beat on the starter
@@gabrieldavenport1395 i did that and then changed the starter to a new one, same problem
wow, great instructions
Thanks!
Great video thank you!
You're amazing hats off
Thank you!
Great job!! Thanks!
Thank you!
Great video, thx!
Thanks!
Awesome, gonna share it with my friends.
Thank you!
Great video! I'm just not sure about that Niners shirt.
Lol 😂!
@DIY Potentials: Projects & Ideas So I have a 212cc electric start engine hooked to alternator to charge 12v batteries. Is there a product I can buy that automatically turns off the engine when the battery is fully charged and turns it on again when it needs charging? I know it exist. I think I've seen videos of it before.
Awesome video! Thank you!
Thank you!
Awesome!. thanks for your demonstration. I know it took so much effort to do this. Very much appreciated.
Thank you!
Very good explanation ❤
Thank you!
thank you great video
Many thanks
Execellnt video
Thank you a ton boss.
Great video
Good teacher
I learned a lot
Amazing. I like this video!!
Sir show the complete wiring diagram of starter motor to ignition switch with start relay thank you,
My car pilot 2012 it has two starter relays, when I crank start the car I don’t get any voltage come out to starter solenoid. I look for starter wiring diagram but can’t find any. Any one can help me please.
I tested both starter relays working but when crank start only one click the other is not
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Thank you!
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